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As you walk onto the central market square in Haarlem, you are greeted with an impressive site and an important landmark…the Gothic-style St. Bavo’s Church.
Having visited this church once before, I was anxious to set foot inside and rephotograph the interior and gaze upon one of the things I most wanted to see again, the Muller organ.
One of the most historically important organs, it was decorated by artist Jan Van Logteren and built by Amsterdam organ builder, Christian Muller between 1735 and 1738. At its completion, it was the largest organ in the world, played by many famous musicians including Mendelssohn, Handel and Mozart, at the early age of 10, and described by Herman Melville in the book, Moby Dick:
“Seeing all these colonnades of bone so methodically ranged about, would you not think you were inside of the great Haarlem organ, and gazing upon its thousand pipes?”
Though I have yet to be present for one of the concerts held regularly in the church, it is something that I aspire to attend in the future as all through the year, special opening times are organized so that the public can walk in free of charge to listen to the famous organ in action.
Originally a Catholic cathedral consecrated in 1559, St-Bavokerk was converted to Protestantism in 1958. Walking through the interior of the church, it is hard to fathom that this expansive church was once a Catholic cathedral. Lacking the embellished ornamentation that you usually find in most cathedrals, the only commonality would be the stained glass windows, however, the lack thereof is a source of interest. Haarlem was once an important center for stained glass in the 16th century, however, many of the original windows, have been lost to neglect. Today, the lack of historic, colorful windows has been remedied by installing windows from other, demolished or defunct churches. In addition, modern artists have created new pieces…a beautiful, large blue window hangs on the northern side and can be seen when entering the double doors on the Groenmarkt and was created by local glass artist Michel van Overbeeke.
Throughout the church’s floor, a large number of carvings can be seen marking the graves of many illustrious Haarlemers. Until 1831, graves were allowed within the church and many plaques hanging on the walls represent the shields of illustrious families and mark the family’s graves below them. Many famous people are buried in individual graves within the church such as Pieter Teyler van der Hulst and Willen van Heythuisen. Other notorious burials include painters Frans Hals and Maarten van Heemskerck and two circus curiosities, the giant Danial Cajanus and his midget friend Jan Paap.
Lastly, moving from the interior to the market square, take in the Gothic exterior and the low buildings built up against it, most notably the former fish market, De Vishal, now used for modern art exhibitions. The most striking piece of architecture is the Grote Kerk Tower which houses a big bourdon bell that sounds on the hour. A short tune is also played every seven and half minutes. Other bells include a carillon which is played weekly on market days. On Tuesdays in the summer, a concert of the carillon is held just before the weekly organ concert.
After your visit, step out into the Grote Markt and take in the statue of Laurens Janszoon Coster, the inventor of a printing press from Haarlem, believed to have done so simultaneously with Johannes Gutenberg (see my post, Germany, Mainz, Museum Time in Mainz). Grab a bite to eat at the many resturants that line the square and check out the many things to see in the history rich city.
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St. Bavo’s Church (Grote Kerk)
- http://www.bavo.nl/
- Address: Grote Markt 22 (noordzijde), 2011 RD Haarlem
- Hours: Monday through Saturday, 1000-1700, August and September, also Sundays 1200-1700
- Admission: Adults, €2.50, Youth (12-16 years), €11.25, Children (0-12 years), free, Guided Tour, Adults, €5.00
During World War II, many Jews knew of a hiding place in Haarlem…19 Barteljorisstraat, the site of the Ten Boom family’s watchmaking business. With the comings and goings of the business’ many customers, it was the perfect hiding place since it did not arouse suspicion.
Setting up a rehabilitation center in Bloemendaal for concentration camp survivors and the jobless Dutch who had previously collaborated with the Germans, she continued to assist those in need. Returning to Germany in 1946, she then traveled the world as a public speaker, appearing in more than 60 countries, wrote many books and finally emigrated to Placentia, California before her death at 91 years of age.
Paying our entrance fees, we began the arduous climb (over 300 steps) to the top of the Dome. Though I had to stop a few times and my legs were quite shaky, we reached the top and Oh! What a view!
Deciding on a boat ride down the Seine, we were on our return when I noticed that we were approaching the Pont D’Alma bridge. Taking to the top deck, I watched for the Musée des Égouts’ kiosk…the window was open and there was a small line!
Wandering along the avenues and pathways within the cemetery and its moss-covered tombs, I soon passed the main gate. Checking the posted map again, I began my search for Jim Morrison’s grave. Walking uphill and minding my steps on the cobblestones in the misty afternoon, I found the masses of gravesites and lack of signage quite confusing. Noticing the number of other people seemingly heading the same direction, I continued my quest. Finally, spotting a large group and their tour guide, one pathway over, I realized that I had found my destination.
The pulpit, an elaborately designed piece by Pierre Elysee van den Bossche highlights the left of the structure as well as the 19th century Sauer organ at the rear of the church. The German organ was built in 1889 and attracts large numbers of world renowned organists from around the world during the International Organ Concert Series every summer. These musicians treasure the opportunity to not only enjoy the music from this magnificent instrument, but to perform on it as well.
Interesting to check out is the statue of John Knox, the preacher of the Scottish Reformation in 1560. Knox was the minister of St. Giles’ until his death in 1572 when he was buried in the churchyard. His grave was paved over and the area became known as Parliament Square. A six foot tall, bronze statue was erected and once stood over the site of his burial in Parliament Square, but was eventually moved back into the church when it was determined that the statue was being damaged by the weather. An engraved stone set in the pavement is now the only marker for his gravesite in the square.
The most interesting stories were of murder and hauntings. Images of disembodied limbs, child phantoms and gruesome animals have terrified many residing within and touring the close. The most recent and famous story, however, is that of a Japanese medium visiting the close. A little girl tugged on her coat as she left one of the rooms. The medium looked back to see a small girl crying in the corner. The little girl, Annie, claimed that she had died during the sickness of 1645 and told the medium of how lonely she was having lost her family, but mostly her treasured doll. The medium, went up to the Royal Mile, purchased a doll and left it for the child. Ever since, visitors have left dolls and other toys in the corner of the room for the little girl.