Tag: architecture

For Athen’s Athletes…

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

It’s time for your morning jog…imagine running on a track rich in history.   A place where ancient athletes once competed…

In Athens, you can!

Most visitors to Athens, make sure to see the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora and the Forum, but many don’t realize that the Panathenaic stadium is actually one of the most significant monuments in Athens and in all of Greece.

Located in the central Athens district of Pangrati, it is here that the Olympic flame sets up its journey to the cities of the Olympic games and is one of my favorite places to visit!

In 330 BC, a simple racecourse was built on the site and became the location of the Great Panathenaea, the religious and athletic festival celebrated every four years to honor the goddess Athena.   With no formal seating, spectators sat on the inclines of the adjacent ravine to view the festivities.

In 144 AD, the stadium was rebuilt by Athenian Roman senator, Herodes Atticus, also responsible for many other structures throughout the country.  Constructed entirely out of marble, it was a place for the masses with 50,000 seats.  By the fourth century, however, the stadium was abandoned when Hellenistic festivals and bloody spectacles were banned by Roman Emperor Theodosius I and the structure fell into ruin.

After archaeological excavations uncovered the stadium in 1869, it was readied, once again, for use.  By 1870, interest was shown in a revival of the original Olympic Games and thus the Zappas Olympics was held at the stadium that year and again in 1875.  Refurbishment, approximately 20 years later, prepared the stadium for the opening and closing ceremonies and as a venue for four sports for the first modern Olympics in 1896.

During the 20th century, the stadium was once again used as an Olympic venue when Athens hosted the 28th Summer Olympic Games in 2004.  With the motto, “Welcome Home”, this Olympics marked the return of the games to the city where they began.  More importantly, a new medal design was introduced replacing one used since 1928.  Guiseppe Cassioli, had designed a medal with a colossal mistake…a design depicting the Roman Colosseum rather than a Greek venue.  The new design, rightfully, featured the Panathenaic Stadium.

Today, you can visit the stadium, take a seat on the smooth marble seats in the stands or run the well-maintained track.  Not only it is great exercise to take a jog, but make sure to make the steep climb to the top of the stadium for an excellent view of the overall complex and the surrounding areas.

Two interesting Greek statues grace the far part of the track…your audio guide, included in your admission, will tell you about them…but be sure to take a close look.

Also, be certain not to miss the permanent exhibition located at the far left side of the stadium, through the vaulted passage, which contains original Olympic Games posters and torches from 1896 until today.   Each torch is so unique to the host country, it is quite interesting to see them up close.

Lastly, when departing the exhibition and returning to the stadium’s interior, walk slowly through the vaulted passage…think back to the athletes as they breathed deeply, readied their minds and made they way toward their dream.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Panathenaic Stadium

  • http://www.panathenaicstadium.gr/Contact/tabid/93/language/en-US/Default.aspx 
  • Address:  Vasileos Konstantinou Anevue (opposite the statue of Myron Discobolus)  Athens 116 35
  • Hours:  March-October, 0800-1900, November-February, 0800-1700
  • Admission:  Adults, 5.00€, Children under 6, free, Students and over 65 years, 2.50€, persons with disabilities and those accompanying them, free.  Audio guide included.

Under the Dome

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Many wait for weeks to secure a reservation to the Reichstag in Berlin.

We talked our way in!

Let me explain…

A friend of mine, Vadim, showed me a historic photograph, taken on May 2, 1945 by Yevgeny Khaldei, of two Soviet soldiers raising the flag of the Soviet Union atop the Reichstag building during the Battle of Berlin on May 2, 1945.  Regarded as one of the most recognizable images of World War II, I remembered seeing it before, but never realized that it had been taken up on the Reichstag.

Vadim, a Russian by birth, wanted to visit the site of this picture, an important point in Soviet history, symbolizing the victory of the USSR over Germany.   Checking the Reichstag website and discovering that visits were allowed by reservation only, he also discovered that the only reservations available for the next day were much earlier than our scheduled arrival.

Deciding to fill out the reservation form despite not being able to make the time slot and applying for a party of five, he included a note explaining that we would not actually be arriving in Berlin until much later…”Would it be okay to use the reservation later in the day?”  Though he received a confirmation, it was apparent that it was auto-generated and no one had actually read his comments.

Later in the day, we made our way to the Reichstag, confirmation in hand, not really expecting to be allowed admittance.  Approaching a security official, we explained our situation and we were allowed us inside to speak to another official.

Security entrance.

First hurdle down…our foot was in the door.

Relating our story once again, we were shocked when the official returned, after checking with another person of authority,  and informed us that we would be allowed inside.  YES!

“Passports please.”

What?  No one told us that we needed to bring our passports!  Explaining that we did not realize that passports were necessary, we offered our drivers licenses.  Thankfully, this was acceptable!

Second hurdle down.

As the official checked off our names, it was apparent that Vadim had made up our birthdays (I love him…he thinks I am eight years younger!).  Crossing off the registered dates, surprisingly, he corrected each and uttered no complaint…until…the last name.  One of the women registered to visit was not present…instead, another had come in her place.

A look of frustration crossed his face and I think we all half-expected to be thrown out of the building.  Again, he left the table to speak with his superior.

We all thought, “This is where he returns with a big, fat, German NO”. “Nein!”

As he returned to his chair, he looked down at his manifest, crossed out the erroneous name, wrote in the replacement and directed us to the security checkpoint.

We were in!

Now what?  Honestly, I have to admit that aside from knowing that this was a historic building, we really did not know what we were going in to see.  After ascending to the roof and receiving our complimentary audio guide, we headed out to the dome to find out.

The Reichstag building was opened in 1894 and was modeled after the Memorial Hall in Philidelphia to house the Imperial Diet of the German Empire.  After being severely damaged by fire in 1933, the building was abandoned for its original intent, as the parliament of the German Democratic Republic (the Volkskammer) met in the Palast der Republik in East Berlin and the parliament of the Federal Republic of Germany (the Bundestag) met in the Bundeshaus in Bonn.  The building was further damaged by air raids and during the Battle of Berlin in 1945, it was captured by the Red Army.

Although an attempt was made in the 1960s to refurbish the building, a full restoration was finally completed after the German reunification on October 3, 1990.  At the culmination of the project, the building once again became the meeting place of the Bundestag.

As we entered the large dome which sits atop the Reichstag, we admired the 360-degree views of Berlin while ascending the steel ramps that curve upwards to the top of the dome.  Our audio guides continued to give commentary, but changed from the history of the building to the surrounding landscapes and buildings in the city.  At the top of the dome, the opening allows for ventilation and there is seating available for those wishing to take a rest and enjoy the views.

The main hall and debating chamber of the Bundestag could be seen through the glass enclosure beneath the mirrored cone at the center of the dome.  This cone directs light into the Riechstag, increasing energy efficiency and giving visitors a view of the parliamentary proceedings when in action.  Reservations can also be made to witness a pleinary session from within the chamber when available.

 

Visiting the Reichstag dome is something that all should try to accomplish while in Berlin.  Although we were extremely excited that we were able to gain entry to this historic monument, I do wish that we had been a little better informed.  One of the items of interest, that I realized later that we had missed, was the cyrillic graffiti left behind by Soviet soldiers after the seige in 1945.  This historical defacing has been carefully preserved and can be seen during visits to the Reichstag.

I guess we will have talk our way in again on a future visit!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

The Reichstag Building

  • https://www.bundestag.de/en/visittheBundestag/dome/registration/245686
  • Address:  Platz der Republik 1, 11011 Berlin, Germany
  • Hours:  Daily from 0800 until 2400 with last admission at 2200.  Closed all day on December 24 and after 1600 on December 31.  Also, the dome will be closed from March 13-17, July 17-21 and from October 9-13 for cleaning and maintenance.  The roof terrace will still be accessible.
  • Admission:  free with admission (by reservation) every quarter of the hour
  • Registration requests must be submitted online with a complete list of participants.  The following information is required for each person:  surname, first name and date of birth.   For those who have not booked in advance, you may register at the service center near the Reichstag Building.  If any free spots are available, you will be issued a booking confirmation.  You can also register to visit with the next two days.  Registration requires first and last names and date of birth.  Identification matching reservations will be required for admittance.
  • Getting There:  Bus number 100 and the M41 both stop at the  Reichstag.  The nearest U-Bahn station is the Bundestag.  The Reichstag is also a short walk from Berlin’s main rail station, Hauptbahnhof.

Remembering the Fallen

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Several Soviet Memorials are located in Berlin, erected to commemorate its fallen soldiers.

As we drove through the city, on the way to our hotel, we passed one of the memorials, the Tiergarten.

A colleague of mine, of Russian descent, was very excited to see that the monument was not far from some of the other landmarks we had planned to visit later that day.  Having been to Berlin a few times before, I was actually surprised to see that it was located just down the road from the Brandenburg Gate.  Maybe I had seen it and did not realized its significance or maybe I was asleep during the bus tour, but I was excited that I would be able to visit something new and share it with someone that it meant something to.

After our visit to the Brandenburg Gate, we headed west on Strasse des 17 Juni (17 June Street) and found ourselves at the entrance of the memorial which is located in the Großer Tiergarten, a large public park and a place where Adolf Hitler had plans to build Welthauptstadt Germania.  Impressively flanked by two Red Army ML-20 152mm gun-howitzer artillery pieces and two T-34 tanks, the notable monument, a curved stoa, is topped by a towering statue of a Soviet soldier, whose arm is in a position to symbolize the Red Army’s putting down of the Nazi German state.  A Cyrillic inscription under the soldier translates into “Eternal glory to heroes who fell in battle with the German fascist invaders for the freedom and independence of the Soviet Union”.

My friend, reading as we walked, explained that the monument was erected to commemorate the 80,000 soldiers of the Soviet Armed Forces who died during the Battle of Berlin in April and May 1945.  It was constructed  in 1945, within a few months of the capture of the city, and built from stonework taken from the destroyed Reich Chancellery.

As we walked to the rear of the property, we discovered an outdoor museum which highlighted the memorial’s construction and offered a look into the city’s other memorials.

Though the memorial has special meaning to those such as my friend and the many who make pilgrimages from various Soviet countries, there are those, however, who still oppose the monument.  The structure has suffered at the hands of vandals and has earned some harsh nicknames, such as “Tomb of the Unknown Rapist” which references one of the various crimes committed by the Soviet occupation troops.

The Tiergarten was a surprise for me.  Not one of the major attractions of Berlin, I had not planned to include it in my day, however, I was excited to learn more through my visit with my Russian friend.

As we walked the property, admiring the tanks, a bunny hopped out from the bushes.  A short while later, a fox surprised us as he emerged from the same bushes.  Was the fox searching for the bunny?  Though the fatalities of the war ended many years ago, this was a reminder of how things once were…when there were those who were pursued and killed…

Though there are two other Soviet memorials in Berlin, commemorating the fallen, Treptower Park and Schonholzer Heide, make sure to check out the oldest and most conveniently located…Tiergarten.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Soviet War Memorial (Tiergarten)

 

 

 

 

Brandenburger Tor

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One of the most recognizable landmarks in Europe is the Brandenburger Tor, or Brandenburg Gate.

The first time I ever laid eyes on this magnificent piece of architecture, it confirmed my presence in Berlin.  Yes, I knew I was in Berlin, but standing before it…well, I was really there!

Built between 1788 and 1791 on the orders of the Prussian King, Frederick William II, by Carl Gotthard Langhans, it was the key entry point to the city, marking the start of the road from Berlin to the town of Brandenburg an der Havel, the former capital of the Margraviate of Brandenburg.

Located in the western part of the city center, the gate stands near the Reichstag building, which houses the German parliament, and is the monumental entry to Unter den Linden, the renowned boulevard of linden trees which leads to the Royal City Palace.  Though most of Berlin was destroyed at the end of the war, the iconic gate survived, albeit with heavy damage.  Though East and West Berlin attempted restoration, once the wall was erected, access to the gate, located in East Berlin was eliminated.

As you stand before the gate, its most notable feature is the Quadriga, the statue which depicts the goddess of victory driving a chariot pulled by four horses.  The statue remained in place for over a decade before Napoleon decided that the statue be dismantled and shipped to Paris.  Remaining in storage until 1814, it was returned to Berlin when Paris was captured by Prussian soldiers following Napoleon’s defeat.  When the statue was remounted atop the gate, one change was made…an iron cross was added to represent Prussia’s military victory over France.   During Berlin’s communist era, the cross was removed, but restored in 1990 during the unification of Germany.  Today, the Quadrica grandly sits atop the gate for all to admire.

Many historical events have also taken place at the Brandenburg Gate.

When Hitler came to power in 1933, he was treated to a torchlight procession through Berlin which passed under the gate en route to the presidential palace.

Thirty years later, in 1963, after the Berlin Wall was erected, former U.S. President John F. Kennedy, delivered one of the most famous addresses of his presidency, to a crowd of more than 120,000 gathered near the Brandenburg Gate.  Most people remember this speech for Kennedy’s one phrase, “I am a Berliner” as they do for former President Reagan’s speech, also at the Brandenburg Gate, where he challenged Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev to “tear down this wall” in 1987.

Today, you can view a commemorative plaque which lies across Eberstrasse, which was unveiled at the 25th anniversary of Reagan’s historic address urging for peace.

 Although there are many landmarks that I have visited throughout Europe… London Bridge, the Eiffel Tower, Roman Coliseum, the Leaning Tower of Pisa…I have never been moved by one so much as this, remembering its historical significance.  Counting the bullet holes still remaining in the columns, the feelings that it invokes is indescribable. Though the Brandenburg Gate has undergone restoration over the years, it appears that construction of the subways line beneath the city and the heavy trucks that regularly make deliveries nearby have caused more cracks to appear in this amazing structure.  It is such a shame to think that one day, it might not be here.
Visit while you can…
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

A Walk in the Jungle

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Having visited San Gervasio archaeological site twice in the past, it was a place about which I could have said, “Been there, done that”.

Not me…

I love ruins and architecture.  So why would I not go back?

The largest and most important archaeological site on Cozumel is a sanctuary to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility and love.  Located in the center of the island in the middle of a lush jungle, populated with iguanas, flowers and foliage,  the site’s name was taken from the agricultural and cattle ranch, San Gervasio, founded by Mr. Gervasio Novelo on September 14, 1858.

The site’s original name is unknown, but its long history dates back to 100 BC and it continued into the late 16th century, with the arrival of  the Spaniards.

For the duration of San Gervasio’s existence, women have made the obligatory pilgrimage to pay tribute to Ixchel, “She Of the Rainbows”, deity of midwifery, fertility and women.

The site’s entrance is well-marked on Transversal Road, but once turning from the main road, the drive is long and narrow and marked with a speed limit that I think the iguanas could outrun.

A decent parking lot is available for those with rentals and a nice, attendant will keep an eye on your car…be sure, he will remember you and be standing nearby for his tip!

When entering the complex and paying your entrance fee of $4.50, you will first encounter a courtyard, with a few souvenir shops.  Since, I only had a rain slicker, we were trying to purchase a small umbrella for my son.  The shops only carried the long, curved handle type, for $10, which would have been impossible to bring home.  One of the shop owners, offered to lend us one, for a tip…actually a good deal for us and a smart move on her part.  How many times has this umbrella paid for itself?

Another tip I learned later was about bug spray…definitely bring your own.  My son is a mosquito magnet and I did not think of picking up some while in town.  The shop vendors were more than willing to sell us a very expensive can, which we did not purchase due to the size and cost.  Later, I learned that we could have asked for a spray down for a tenth of the cost of the can…something we should have definitely done for my son.

It is in this area that you can hire a guide to take you throughout the complex and the price for the both of us was $20, though we opted not to use this service. Restrooms are also located here and I recommend using the facilities before entering the site.

Before entering the actual archaeological site, you encounter another ticket counter.  I don’t understand the logic here…would you seriously pay just to enter the courtyard?  Anyway, here we paid $5 each and received our tickets.

The site is very well laid out, well marked and has sturdy paths to lead you from one area to the next in the front of the complex.

One of the first buildings you encounter is the The Little Hands Structure, so named because of the red colored hand prints that mark the wall.  The temple is comprised of two rooms in which a small temple was built in the interior of one of them.

Another small house-like structure is located nearby, although it is almost certain to have had a ceremonial use.  A small temple is also located in the center of the structure.

As we continued on, we encountered other small structures, but an impressive arch-like structure, which marked the intersection of two ancient roads  or sacbés, caught my eye.  In pre-hispanic days, The Arch Structure, was the entrance or exit of the central part of San Gervasio.  Pilgrims and traders would reach the famous sanctuary of Ixchel to make an offering at the altar that lies in the middle of the vaulted passageway.  It was here that many statues to Ixchel were found and are still being discovered.  One of the statues, a large ceramic image of Ixchel was believed to have delivered oracles spoken by a hidden priestess for pilgrims with questions.

From this point, we chose one of the two roads to either Pozo or Nohoch Nah.  The paved paths ended here and the road was rocky and a bit muddy from the recent rains.

Nohoch Nah, also known as the the Big House Structure, was quite an impressive one.  An altar in the middle of the enclosure, in which offerings were placed can be seen through the grated metal that covers the doorways.  Most archaeological sites prohibit you from standing on or climbing the structures, however, this one allows for climbing the stairs and walking around the formation giving you a distinct understanding of how the Mayans felt when they utilized the structure.

After a long and drizzly walk through the jungle, complete with massive puddles blocking the path, we soon arrived at Murciélagos y Pet Nah.  The Muciélagos and Round House Structures were the most important buildings in the Late Classic period in San Gervasio.  The principal center of the site was located here and it was also here that the Overlord resided.  The Round House was named as such due to the unusual rounded platforms and its altar which is also round. Again, we were able to climb to the top of the rounded platforms giving us a different perspective of Murciélagos.

After another long and muddy walk through the jungle, we soon arrived at the final area of San Gervasio, complete with four distinct structures.  The Palace Structure contained colonnaded halls most of which can still be seen standing on the foundation.   Though you were not prohibited from climbing the other structures, here, signs inform you that it is not allowed.

In this wide, grassy area, another structure, is the Ossuary,  The structure was aptly named after numerous human remains were found inside during exploration of the building.  The temple no longer exists, but originally had masonry walls and a a roof.

Another smaller structure also stands here in this area, Structure 25B, which was also another colonnaded hall with a masonry roof.   Different from other colonnaded halls, it only had three pillars with square bases and three columns with round bases.

Back to the smooth, paved walkways, we made our way toward the front of the complex returning our umbrella along the way.

Though San Gervasio is not quite as large as Chichen Itza or many of the other massive ruin sites in the Riviera Maya and has not had a lot of restoration, the numerous structures that can be viewed at close range amid the beautiful natural setting makes the off-the-beaten trek, worthwhile.

So…grab your sunglasses, umbrella and bug spray and your sense of adventure…head on over to San Gervasio.

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

San Gervasio

  • http://www.inah.gob.mx/es/zonas/101-zona-arqueologica-san-gervasio
  • Address:  Kilómetro 7.5, Carretera Transversal, Centro, 77600 Cozumel, Q.R., Mexico
  • Hours:  Monday thru Sunday, 0800-1630
  • Admission:  $9.50
  • How To Get There:  By car, head north on Transversal Road from downtown Cozumel.  The entrance is well-marked.  If you are arriving by cruise ship, many taxis will take you to the ruins and wait for about $70 and return you to San Miguel or the cruise ship’s dock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The French Fort

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Sometimes I have trouble getting to or from work, so I take Amtrak.  But, as an American, that is about the extent of what we call train travel here in the United States.

Everyone in Europe takes the train…everywhere.  The rail networks reach far and wide and it is extremely easy (and relatively cheap) to visit, shop or go to the beach in other cities.f

Recently, a trip to Nice had me itching to see more of the coastal area.  Having been to Monaco and Juan le Pins, I had only spent a small amount of time in Antibes and decided that I would like to see what else it had to offer.

Shortly after my arrival (and a shower), I made my way to the train station, Gare de Nice-Ville and purchased a ticket for the next departure to Antibes.  Though it was running a few minutes  late, I was soon on my way.

The train was filled with beach goers carrying floats and beach bags, excitedly talking amongst themselves and eager to arrive at their destinations to enjoy the beautiful warm and sunny day.  A short 25 minutes later, the train was pulling into Gare d’Antibes and after pushing past a man carrying two beach chairs and a child already wearing his floaties, I was soon making my way down toward the marina, Port Vauban.

Port Vauban, a natural harbor used since before the Roman Empire, is home to the Yacht Club d’Antibes and is the largest marina in the Mediterranean.  The harbor houses some of the world’s largest and most extravagant yachts.  When visiting Antibes, a great way to spend an afternoon is to walk around the marina, check out some of the amazing vessels and imagine what it would be like to cruise the vibrant waters in absolute luxury!

Though it was nice to spend some time near the harbor, my destination was actually on the far side, Fort Carré.

When making plans to visit Antibes, I had spied Fort Carré on the map.  It appeared to be directly between the train station and the harbor and my original plan to was to walk nearby and see if it was open to the public.  Well, maps aren’t always correct and after my arrival, I discovered it was about a fifteen minute walk away from the center of Antibes.  The route was well marked and I soon arrived at the Antibes Football Club stadium.  A large statue that appeared to be some sort of memorial and the fort was visible on the other side, however, it was quite confusing as to how to make my way there.

Spying an open gate near the Football Club, I made my way to the far side of the stadium.  Climbing the stone stairways, I made my way to the statue, Le Poilu.

One of the tallest, yet, little known War Memorials in France, the statue stands guard over the Stade de Fort Carré.  Walking around the base of the statue, you are reminded of the terrible losses that the town of Antibes suffered during World War One.  Two hundred and fifty-four names are engraved on all four side of the monument’s base…a number larger than any other town in France.

The statue stands 22 meters in height and was sculpted by Henri Bouchard and inaugurated in 1927.  Legend has it that upon completion and installation of the statue, the sculptor committed suicide when he realized that he had placed the soldier’s rifle on the wrong side.

Walking past the statue, I began earnestly searching for the Fort’s entrance.  Though a fence separated me from a road bordering the stadium and the fort, I noticed people walking in the area.  Certain that I needed to be on the opposite side, I slipped through a hole in the fence (yes…I did) and finally found the unassuming entrance to the fort’s grounds.

Quite overgrown and appearing to be more of a natural path, I followed others up the rocky and dusty trail, stopping occasionally to admire the wildflowers growing in the area.

Finally, the entryway to the castle stood before me.  Paying the admission fee of 3€, I was instructed to remain on the lower level until greeted by a guide.  Walking around the circular interior courtyard, I was mesmerized by the contrast between the dark red doorways and the aged tan stone walls.  An exhibit detailing the construction of the castle was contained in one of the rooms off of the courtyard and an old well occupied the ground space.

A young, female guide soon joined us and we were escorted up the rounded stairway to the level above.  Making our way through the structure, she informed us on the history of Fort Carre.

The star shaped fort was built in the 16th century by Henri de Mandon and redeveloped in the 17th century by the Marquis de Vauban.  Housing barrack buildings for officers and men and an ancient chapel, the fort is devoid of cannons or other military accoutrements.

Set on the headland that divides the Antibes harbor from the Baie des Anges, the most impressive part of traversing the walkways at the top of the structure is the panoramic views of the Mediterranean and its nearby beaches, Port Vauban, the southern Alps and on clear days views down both ways to Monaco and Cannes.

 

As we dodged an aggressive seagull, guarding its nest, we were informed that one of the most famous inhabitants of the fort was Napoleon Bonaparte during the French Revolution.  After the overthrow of Robespierre in 1794, he was detained in Fort Carré for ten days.  The fort resumed its penitentiary role during the occupation in World War II when it acted as holding place for foreigners.  Before opening to the public as an historic monument in 1998, the fort was used as a sports college where soldiers learned to climb its precipitous walls and as one of the locations for the Bond film, Never Say Never with the return of Sean Connery as 007.

Enjoying the warmth of the sunny day, I could have stayed on the top of the fort for much longer, however, being required to stay in the company of our guide, we were escorted to the lower level for the completion of our tour.

After my departure, I made my way around the entire base of the fort, stopping to pay my respects at a nearby soldier’s grave.  Finally, following a drive down the backside of the fort, I found the green entrance gates.  Not anxious to slip through the hole in the fence once again, I walked toward the stadium’s left side and sure enough found the path which I should have taken when I arrived.

Much easier than the latter method of entry!

Excited that I was able to experience a part of French history, I made my way back past the harbor and to the center of Antibes.  If you enjoy history and photography, I strongly recommend a visit to Fort Carré…and the view’s not so bad either!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.com

 

 

Fort Carré

  • http://www.antibes-juanlespins.com/culture/fort-carre
  • Address:  Avenue du 11 Novembre, 06600 Antibes, France
  • Hours:  February to May, 1000-1230 and 1330-1700, June to October,  1000-1300 and 1400-1800, November to January, 1000-1230 and 1330-1630.  Closed Mondays and January 1, May 1, November 1 and December 25.
  • Admission:  3€

Port Vauban

Le Poilu

  • Address:  60 Avenue du 11 Novembre, 06600 Antibes Juan les Pins, France.  Behind the Antibes Football Stadium

 

 

 

Helping Hands

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There’s something new and exciting on the Grand Canal in Venice!

An art installation by Lorenzo Quinn is gracing the waters at the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel.

Immense hands emerge from the Venetian waters and appear to support the hotel.  Entitled Support, the sculpture highlights the threat faced by the city due to global warming and rising sea levels.

An inspiring and breathtaking sculpture, it is best viewed from across the Grand Canal at the Mercati di Rialto (Seafood Market) although an alternate view can be garnered from taking the traghetto (gondola ferry) adjacent to the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel.  If you are lucky (like we were) you may have the traghetto all to yourself, however, your view may be hampered if the gondola is filled with other tourists.  If you do not decide to take the traghetto, definitely take one of the side streets next to the hotel and walk out onone of the piers or Vaporetto stops for excellent side views.  The minute details of the sculpture are incredible!

 The installation was unveiled on May 13 for the 57th International Art Exhibition of the Venice Biennale and will remain on display until November 26.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Support at the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel

  • http://www.casagredohotel.com/
  • Address:  Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99, 30121 Venezia, Italy
  • Hours:  always viewable and lighted by spotlight at night
  • Admission:  free
  • Traghetto Ca’D’Oro Pescaria, 2€ per person

Do the Duomo!

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Many years ago, I visited the Duomo on one of my first trips to Milan.  Of course I did…isn’t that what all first-time visitors to Milan do?

Over the years since, I’ve walked by the massive cathedral and sat in the square admiring its magnificence.  The intricate carvings and towering spires dominate the skyline and mesmerize.  It is almost unfathomable to imagine the skill and patience required to create this masterpiece, yet, as you stand near the structure and gaze upward, there are so many small details that comprise the fabrication…so many, in fact, that you can always see it in a new light every time you visit.

So many lives were dedicated and lost to this incredible building, most never seeing the completion as it took an astounding 582 years to build.  Standing on the site of not one, but two other churches, St. Maria Maggiore and Basilica of St. Tecla, the Duomo certainly resides on the holiest ground and is one of the oldest Christian buildings in Europe.  Here is where St. Ambrose baptized St. Augustine and the Battistero Paleocristiano can still be visited under the Cathedral.

Deciding that it was time to visit again, I set off on the metro destined for the fifth largest Christian church in the world and Milan’s most famous landmark.

Arriving in the front of the building, an extensive queue snaked from the front to side where tickets were required to enter the queue.  After a quick walk to the ticket office at the Sala Delle Colonne, we soon had tickets in hand and were back to the line.  Moving rather quickly, our bags were inspected at the door and we were then admitted into the cathedral.

The Duomo is a massive space with much so much to investigate, I strongly suggest giving yourself ample time for your visit.  Starting on the right side of the cathedral, we made our way inside the darkened space, stopping to pay our respects to the sarcophagi and burial places of former Cardinals and Archbishops of Milan.

Rounding the back of the cathedral in the retro-choir, a 1:1 scale copy of the statue of Madonnina (located at the highest point atop the Duomo) is located. Standing before the vibrant and beauteous stained glass windows, the statue is said to offer protection to whomever finds joy while gazing at her.  “Those who come to Milan remain astonished at her light;  those who leave, carry her with them forever”.

The organ, built in 1938 and one of the largest is the world, is a sight to behold as well as the ghastly statue of Bartholomew Flayed, designed by Marco D’Agrate in 1562, with his flayed skin thrown around his shoulder in a stole-like fashion.

As you scrutinize the extraordinary altar, make sure you look for the red light in the dome above the apse which illuminates the spot where one of the nails from the Crucifixion of Christ resides.  Every year, the Holy Nail is retrieved from this location and placed on exhibition for the public during the celebration of the Rite of the Nivola.

Beneath the choir, the crypt of Charles Borromeo, the former archbishop (1564-1584) and cardinal,  is accessible via a short stairway.  No pictures are allowed. The Cathedral Treasury (Tesoro del Duomo) is also located in this area and a separate entrance fee of €1 is required for entrance.

Once we had seen the entirety of the interior, we made our way down into the Archaeological Area beneath the front of the church, which was included in our ticket.  The excavated ruins include both the Cathedral of St. Thecla and the 4th century Battistero Paleocristiano, where the octagonal baptismal font can be observed in the center.  Pieces of fresco, mosaics and other artifacts can be seen as well as a few well-preserved tombs.

Since the day was nearing its close, we made our way out of the building and to the cathedral’s right side, to the elevators which would take us to the top of the Duomo.  Excited for this part of our visit, I could not wait to see an area of the cathedral that I had not seen prior.

After what seemed like an interminable wait, we finally entered the lift and made our way to the top.  Following the crowds along the roof line, we were able to set our sights on the thousands of statues and flying buttresses that make up the cathedral’s summit. More than 3,400 statues, 135 gargoyles and 700 figures can been seen crowning the spires and breathtaking views of Milan and the snow-capped Alps can be admired on clear days.  Walking along the rooftop terrace, you can also gaze at the top of the cathedral’s highest spire, and see the original Madonnina, keeping watch over the city.  Truly the perfect way to end our day!

Although we did not make it to the Museo del Duomo, also included in our ticket, we were happy to have explored most of what the Duomo offers…besides…it leaves something for another day!

Truly a marvel, the Duomo should not be missed on a stop in Milan.  Visited and written about by so many writers (Oscar Wilde and Henry James), it has captivated attention for centuries, most notably Mark Twain’s, who described it best.  “What a wonder it is! So grand, so solemn, so vast! And yet so delicate, so airy, so graceful! A very world of solid weight, and yet it seems …a delusion of frostwork that might vanish with a breath!”

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Duomo

  • http://www.duomomilano.it
  • Address:  Piazza del Duomo, 20122 Milano, Italy
  • Hours:  Duomo, 0800-1900, daily
  • Hours:  Crypt of St. Charles, Monday – Friday, 1100-1730, Saturday, 1100-1700, Sunday, 1330-1530
  • Hours:  Museo del Duomo, 1000-1800, Tuesday- Sunday
  • Hours:  Terraces, 0900-1900, daily
  • Hours:  Archaeological Area, 0900-1900, daily
  • Admission:  Duomo Pass A, Includes Cathedral Terraces by Lift, Duomo Museum, Archaeological Area, San Gottardo Church, €16.00-€8.00, Duomo Pass B, Includes
    Cathedral Terraces on Foot, Duomo Museum, Archaeological Area, San Gottardo Church, €12.00-€6.00
  • Ticket Offices:  SALA DELLE COLONNE, Piazza del Duomo, 14/a, 0800-1830, daily and Palazzo Reale – Piazza del Duomo, 12 at the Grande Museo del Duomo, 0845-1800, closed Monday.  Self service ticket machines are available at both locations.
  • Getting There:  From Central Station, take the Yellow Metro (M3) and get off at Duomo stop.  From Cadorna Station, take the Red Metro (M1) and get off at Duomo stop.  From Garibaldi Station, take the Green Metro (M2), change at Cardorna to the Red (M1) and get off at Duomo stop.  The Duomo can also be accessed by trams 15 (Piazza Fontana stop), 2 and 14 (Via Torino stop) and 16, 24 and 27 (Via Mazzini stop).

What Lies Beneath…

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are many ancient basilicas throughout Italy.

There are many ancient basilicas in Milan.

Take your pick!

One of the oldest basilicas, San Lorenzo, is located in the southern part of the city of Milan near the canal district.

Originally built between the late fourth and early fifth century, the basilica boasts the highest dome in the city and lies opposite sixteen Corinthian marble columns, Colonne di San Lorenzo, the few remains of the Roman “Mediolanum” which date from the 3rd century AD.

Walking alongside these columns, I admired their everlasting strength and symmetry and turned to pass through the piazza in front of San Lorenzo.  Here, I was greeted by a copy of the Emperor Constantine, the first emperor to convert to Christianity, standing tall and proud and ready to greet the hoards of young people who congregate here each afternoon and evening.

Entering the church, my first impression of the octagonal nave was one of a modest interior.  A majestic gold altar, stands in the center, however the dark, grey stone innards is a far reach from many other churches’ beautifully painted interiors, more specifically San Maurizio, which I had visited earlier in the day.

As I walked around the exterior walls of the church, I discovered many interesting statues and small chapels, however, I also discovered what this church is known for.  The Cappella di Sant’Aquilino (Chapel of St. Aquilinus).

After paying my entry fee of 2€, I discovered in this beautiful sanctuary, fourth century Byzantine mosaics on the walls and niches.  One interesting mosaic in particular depicts a beardless Christ and another has crumbled away to reveal the artist’s drawings beneath.

A lovely, glass encased sarcophagus sits below a magnificently painted domed ceiling and is said to hold the remains of Galla Placidia, the wife of Ataulf, the king of the Visigoths and sister of Honorius, the last emperor of Rome.

After seeing two other tourists duck behind the sarcophagus I went to investigate, discovering a stairway leading down below the church. There, in the dusty crypt-like room, is a most fascinating find…the original foundations of the church.  These ancient foundations were transported here from a Roman amphitheater and were the beginnings of San Lorenzo.

Ascending back up the stairs and through the chapel, I took time to reinspect central part of the church once again, realizing that I had missed the pipe organ, built by Pietro Bernasconi.  This fascinating organ with two keyboards, was built with materials re-used from the previous organ built in 1840 by Felice Bossi, which in turn had borrowed parts from an earlier organ by Antonio Brunelli II.  This original organ is believed to be from the church of San Giovanni in Conca.

As I exited the doors into the rainy afternoon and stared out at the Roman columns towering before the church, I realized that though not one of the most ornate basilicas in Milan, San Lorenzo is definitely one of the most interesting.  When visiting this ancient basilica, be sure to spend the extra money and visit the Chapel of St. Aquilinus…truly the jewel in this masterpiece.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Basilica di San Lorenzo

  • http://www.sanlorenzomaggiore.com/
  • Address:  Corso di Porta Ticinese, 35, 20123 Milano, Italy
  • Hours:  Monday-Saturday, 0800-1830, Sunday, 0900-1900
  • Admission:  Church, free, Capella di Sant’Aquilino, 2€
  • How To Get There:  Tram, Ticinese Molino delle Armi, Line 3

 

The Art Lover’s Church

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Rainy days aren’t usually fun days for tourists…especially when you are trying to go out and do some sightseeing!  So, when I woke up from my nap in Milan and discovered that it was sprinkling a bit, what was I to do?

Grab an umbrella and raincoat and hit the streets, of course!

Since the weather forecast was not calling for the deluge to end any time that day, I reached into my bag of knowledge of  local destinations and pulled out San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore.

Having researched this monastery a few times, I had also heard that it was not to be missed…and it was indoors!  Perfect!

Reaching the metro station of Cadorna and consulting my map a few times, I was soon standing in front of the church’s unassuming gray stone facade on Corso Magenta.

Admittedly, it didn’t look like much.

Stepping through the doors, however, I must confess…my breath caught in my chest.  An art lover’s dream, this church truly is magnificent.  Being a person who has traveled the world and seen many religious institutions, I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything quite as beautiful with masterpieces covering every inch of the walls, ceilings, side chapels and altar area.  It was absolutely difficult to discern which way to cast your gaze.

The church, standing on the site of a former place of worship, was constructed in the beginning of the 1500’s and is adjoined to the convent of the Benedictine nuns, the oldest female monastery in Milan.  The rectangular nave is divided by a partition into two sections.  The front section, which you see when you enter, is intended for the congregation’s worship and filled with artwork by major sixteenth century Lombard artists such as Bernardino Luini, who worked with Leonardo da Vinci, and his sons, Paolo Lomazzo, Ottavio Semino, Callisto Piazza and Simone Peterzano.  The carved wooden altar is graced by the renowned Adorazione dei Magi (Adoration of the Magi) by Antonio Campi above it, dating back to 1578, one of the most outstanding pieces of artwork in the building.

Checking with the attendant that it was okay to photograph the area, she then made sure that I saw a sign pointing to a doorway near the altar.  The Hall of Nuns.

Already in awe of what I was seeing, I was not sure I wanted to continue on to another area of the structure.  Entering the doorway into a great hall, again, I was dumbfounded.

The Hall of Nuns was unlike anything I had ever seen.  The long nave, flanked on each side by the wooden nun’s choir loft was presided over by a massive and obviously quite valuable pipe organ, designed by Gian Giacomo Antegnati in 1554, in the monk’s choir.  Beautifully sculpted, the gold detail of the facade is only outdone by the two shutters on each side painted in tempera by Franscesco Medici.

Walking through the gallery, I was overloaded by the expanse of compositions that filled every inch of the walls, niches and ceilings.  Truly breathtaking!  Looking upward at the starry sky, with God, the Evangelists and angels, I made my way throughout the space, through the hall and behind the nun’s choir, finding my way back to the partition separating the Hall of the Nuns from the main congregation.  Here, images by Bernandino Luini, of St. Catherine, St. Agatha, the Marriage at Cana and the Carrying of the Cross of Christ are presented.

Reluctantly leaving the space, I found my way into the location that formerly housed the Benedictine convent.  Now the domicile of the Milan Archaeological Museum, many Roman remains, statues and parts of the Roman Circus can be found here.  Deciding to save this for another day, I made my way through the courtyard, quickly checking out the relics that lined the area and back into the rainy day.

Glancing back at the church, I couldn’t help but stop and feel glad that I had braved the elements and taken such an incredible and artistic walk through history.

Everyone wants to see the Duomo, but everyone should seek out Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore.  Truly one of Milan’s gems!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

 

Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore