Recently, while walking in the Pinciano quarter, near Villa Borghese, I happened upon the church of Santa Teresa d’Avila, an early 20th century minor basilica.
Finding the doors unlocked, I ventured in to see what this church was about.
Designed in the neo-Romanesque style, the church was constructed rather quickly, beginning in 1901, and completed only one year later. Made a parochial church by Pope Pius X in 1906, the church was entrusted to the Discalced Carmelite friars, who to this day, continue to serve the parish with their convent located next door. Forty-five years later, under the orders of Pope Pius XII, the church’s status was elevated to Minor Basilica.
The exterior of the building is constructed of red brick and is rather unremarkable except for the two-storied entrance facade with its four columns and elaborately carved relief depicting Christ Blessing St. Teresa. The main entrance is graced with a bronze door designed by Fra Serafino Melchiore and the reliefs depicts scenes from the life of St. Teresa.
Sufficient to say, I hoped the interior would differ from the exterior thinking back to many of the churches I had visited in the city. Sadly, I found the decor to be quite plain except for a few decorative additions. Designed in a Latin cross plan, there were eight side altars, dedicated to Carmelite saints and two altars flanking the sanctuary and a main altar. Adorned with works by 20th century Roman artists, there was a wheel window with stained glass showing Christ the Apostles over the entrance, 18th century wooden choir stalls hailing from Santa Maria in Campo Marzio and a 17th century bronze crucifix by Pietro Tacca. Behind a screen of carved limestone, there was also a choir which contained a life-sized statue of St. Teresa.
My time in the church of Santa Teresa d’Avila was short and although I was not overwhelmed by my visitation, I’m glad I decided to take a quick look.
One more church marked off the Rome list!
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Even though I had intended to venture out to the Priscilla Catacombs in Rome, we had arrived late and sleep seemed a little more important when my alarm went off.
Knowing that Borghese Park was not far away, I peeked out between the curtains, noticed the sunshine and thought that it might be nice to take a walk in the park and a turn in the Borghese Gallery and Museum.
Who would have known that you needed an advance reservation?
Well, I guess if I had done some prior research…
A little defeated, I headed out of the park and took a quick glance at my Google maps. There was a museum listed a few blocks away.
Why not? I had nothing else to do and the catacombs were closing in a short while.
Walking the few blocks to the location of the Museo Ludovisi Boncompagni, I stood for a moment to enjoy its Roman baroque-style appearance from across the street.
Upon entering, I approached the front desk, saying hello to the two women who were standing there. Asked to sign the guest book, I then inquired about the entrance fee but was told that entrance to the museum was complimentary…quite the nice surprise!
Making my way through the ground floor of the villa which belonged to the Prince Andrea Boncompagni, it was a bit like stepping back in time, seeing how the upper elite of Rome lived at the time.
The villa, which fell into Prince Boncompagni’s widow’s possession upon his death was donated, per her request, to be used as a center for cultural activity for the Italian State. Though it took many years for her request to be fulfilled for the building’s use as a museum, it was finally in the early 90’s when the building was renovated to be used to exhibit the first Italian collection dedicated to the decorative arts.
Each room is decorated in the style of its former glory and brimming with objects of art and architectural ornamentation. Antique furniture and lighting, statues, busts and vases filled each room, wall paper and interesting paintings lined the walls, but one of the highlights of the museum is a beautiful bronze, silver and gold crib dating back to 1901, commissioned by the City of Rome and donated to the monarchs Elena and Vittorio Emanuele III for the birth of their first child Iolanda.
As beautiful as the interiors are, however, the highlight of the museum is the extensive haute couture collection from designers such as Pucci, Ferragamo, Fausto Sarli, Gattinoni, Sorelle Fontana, Valentino and Litrico, among others.
Amidst the opulent interiors of the villa, stand mannequins draped in the grand designer’s garments and cases filled with shoes, hats, purses, and jewelry.
I loved examining the exquisite couture pieces up close, coming from a time when everything was sewn, embroidered and beaded by hand. As a person who enjoys sewing, I was quite impressed and aware of how many hours were required to create these masterpieces. And…although the accessories were protected by glass cases, more than once I caught myself wishing that I could drape a purse across my arm or place one of the hats upon my head!
The museum spans two floors and took me not more than an hour to peruse. Although it was not my first choice of how to spend my afternoon in Rome, I was quite pleased that I had stumbled upon it due to my laziness.
As I always say, sometimes, the best things you find are the ones you weren’t looking for!
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On countless occasions, I have walked by the Castel Sant’Angelo…most times heading over the Ponte Sant’Angelo bridge to the Piazza Navona, the location of two of my favorite restaurants and my absolute fave gelato shop.
Having always admired it for its spherical silhouette and commanding position along the river, I am not sure why I had never ventured inside.
With the summer crowds beginning to thin, my mind filled with the opportunities this offered. Uncrowded streets, not many long lines. I wanted to experience something different, yet still get my daily dose of culture and that could mean any number of locations to visit.
Heading out with a friend, we had decided to have dinner at The Old Bear, near the Piazza Navona, after whatever adventure we decided upon.
Hmmm…just across the river was the Castle Sant’Angelo. I was in the mood for pumpkin lasagna and yes, a castle!
Intended for use as a mausoleum by Emperor Hadrian and his family, the construction of the Castle Sant’Angelo was begun in the year 135. Only requiring four years to complete, the building was then given over to the military, eventually being integrated into the Aurelian Walls, which enclosed the city of Rome including all seven of its hills, the Campus Martius and Trastevere.
As the plague ravaged the city, Pope Gregory I experienced a vision of Saint Michael the Archangel on the top of the castle announcing the end of the epidemic. As we stood on the Ponte Sant’Angelo, itself lined with amazing angelic statues, we gazed upon the fortress and at the statue of Saint Michael comparatively placed on the apex.
After paying our entrance fee, we made our way through the five floors which are reached by a spiral ramp that first reaches the chamber of ashes and eventually cells where many historical figures were imprisoned.
There are many medieval features of the castle from its time served as a fortress. The spiraling ramp provided rapid return to safety as well as a way for horseback riders to transit the space, a small wooden bridge that sits across the imperial tomb and a drawbridge. During the years of rebellion, four bastions were added to improve the fortification of the castle. These were the bastions of San Marco, San Luca, San Giovanni and San Matteo and as we made our way through these additions, we were able to witness the many wooden catapults, rusty cannons and marble cannon balls that were useful during the attacks the city continuously received. In addition, the Bastion of San Giovanni was home to a sixteenth century gunsmith workshop in the tower and in a reconstruction of the space, we were able to take note of the items used to construct the devices.
The castle was a maze of stairs, enclosed spaces and walkways most extremely well preserved due to its continual modifications over the centuries. Finding ourselves in the Courtyard of Honour which contains the papal apartments, used as a place of refuge by the pope when they were forced to flee the Vatican, we spied the stairs which led us to the second highest point on the castle…the one where we could stand beneath the great statue of Michael the Archangel. It is here, as well, that you can stand and admire the city, including the commanding St. Peter’s Basilica, the river below and all points past.
Courtyard of Honor
Courtyard of Honor
Courtyard of Honor
The loggias were my favorite parts of the castle. The smaller of the two was built at the beginning of the sixteenth century by Pope Julius II of Rovere (you can spot his name and coat of arms on the lintel), it was used as a place for the pope to bless the crowds of pilgrims on their way towards St. Peter’s Basilica. The Grand Loggia, completed in 1543, was completed by Pope Paul III (notable for commissioning the Last Judgement in the Sistine Chapel), and conceived as an entrance to his private apartments. It is decorated with episodes of Hadrian’s life and images of the monuments that he had built, including the mausoleum itself.
Stopping at the small cafe for a short time to escape the incessant drizzle that had started, we grabbed a beverage and enjoyed the warmth and smells of the pastries served here.
Spying a break in the weather, we decided to continue on, admiring the architectural details of the castle. Eventually, we came to something totally unexpected. Within the beautifully decorated rooms, named after Clement VII Medici, we happened upon an Italian fashion exhibit showcasing haute couture and jewelry by Italian designers, including Bulgari and Valentino. Beautifully dressed mannequins and display cases filled the apartments, including the Apollo Room, which if you were not overwhelmed by the fashion displayed here, you certainly were by the magnificent marble fireplace, frescoes, door friezes and tiled floors.
Sadly, the one thing that I was so anxious to visit within the castle was the Passetto di Borgo; the passageway built in 1277 that enabled a periously-threatened pope to make a safe getaway. In 1494, Pope Alexander VI transited this passage as Charles VIII invaded the city and Clement VII escaped using the passage during the Sack of Rome in 1527, when troops of the Holy Roman Emperor massacred almost the entire Swiss Guard on the steps of St. Peter’s Basilica. In 2000, in honor of the Pope’s Jubilee year, the Passetto di Borgo was renovated and temporarily re-opened. It can be visited during specific times with the accompaniment of a guide.
Heading out of the castle, we found the rain had ceased and the darkening sky was beginning to clear. Examining the castle from the ground perspective, we walked across the bridge stopping with the masses to get one last look.
Never before having realized that Michael the Archangel was the statue that sat upon the top of the castle, I glanced at the angel once again and had a feeling of peace.
Everyone always wants a guardian angel looking out over them!
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Address: Lungotevere Castello, 50, 00193 Roma RM, Italy
Hours: Daily, 0900-1930. Closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.
Admission: €15.00, € 2.00 reduced. The entrance ticket also allows entry to the National Museum of the Palazzo di Venezia in the following eight days after purchase. From October to March, free entry on the first Sunday of each month. Guided tours included in the admission ticket. November to March, English, 1000 and 1500, Italian, 1130 and 1630. April to October, English 1000 and 1630, Italian, 1130 and 1800.
What I love most about Rome is that there is always something different to discover around each corner…from statues to memorials, to major landmarks and archaeological sites…some more interesting than others, but all deserving some insight into their historical aspects.
While on a walk, I came across a statue on the backside of the Ministry of Economics and Finance. Curious about its origins, I decided to investigate.
This monument, dedicated to Quintino Sella, an Italian politician, economist and mountaineer, was erected in 1893, and was chosen after thirty-one sketches were presented for consideration to the city. Inaugurated on April 9, 1893, in the square in front of the Ministry of Finance, the monument was eventually moved on the side of Via Cernaia.
Born in the Province of Biella, Quintino Sella studied engineering in Turin and then mineralogy in Paris, witnessing the revolution of 1848. Returning to Turin in 1852, he worked as a professor of geometry, mathematics and then, eventually, mineralogy.
In 1860, he moved into politics, serving as a deputy for the city of Cossato, secretary-general of public instruction and then received the portfolio of finance from Rattazzi and later, La Marmora. His great political influence led to his heading of a Moderate Conservative cabinet at which he remained until retiring from public life.
Despite his busy educational and political aspirations, Sella spent a great deal of time pursuing his mountaineering interests. He was involved in the competition for the first ascent of the Matterhorn and founded the Club Alpino Italiano, with a number of its mountain huts named in his honor.
Passing away in 1884, Quintino Sella was buried at the graveyard near the Santuary of Oropa, where a pyramid was erected in his honor.
The monument that I observed at the Ministry of Finance, was designed by Ettore Ferrari and consists of a cross-shaped stepped base from which rises a pedestal on which the bronze statue of the statesman appears to be walking with his right hand on his chest and holding papers in his left. A female figure with a naked breast wrapped in a wide cloak, is seated beneath Sella’s representation. On the female’s left side is a bronze figure of a naked boy, symbolizing the Genius of Finance, holding a book with the word Finanze on it.
The statue was an interesting find and after discovering its history, I went in search of the plaque also dedicated to Quintino Sella on Via Nazionale.
It wasn’t the Coliseum or the Vatican…but I learned a bit about an important Italian, just by stumbling across a statue dedicated to him.
Lots more of that in Rome!!!
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Ever see something many times, yet never tire of it?
This is how I feel about St. Peter’s Basilica.
It’s no secret that I love churches, but this one surpasses all.
Situated on Vatican Hill, St. Peter’s Basilica can be seen from many parts of Rome, beckoning visitors, that total in the millions every year, from all over the world. One of only four Major basilicas in the world (with the other three also in Rome…St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, Santa Maria Maggiore and St. John the Lateran), this basilica achieved its fame as it derives its name from the fact that it was built on the site where St. Peter was buried in 64 AD.
This UNESCO world heritage site has a capacity of over 60,000 people and covers an area of over 22,300 square meters, making it one of the world’s largest churches. Originally the site of the Circus of Nero and a cemetery, the original basilica was erected between the years of 319 and 349 AD under the orders of Emperor Constantine, the first Christian emperor of Rome. Falling into disrepair after standing for over 1,000 years, Pope Julius II (who also commissioned the Sistine Ceiling) made the decision to demolish and rebuild the structure.
The greatest architects of the Roman Renaissance and Baroque were consulted and utilized for this new basilica, including Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo, Donato, Giacomo della Porta and Maderno with Bramante’s original design being chosen in 1506. After 120 years, the basilica was completed and consecrated by Pope Urban VIII.
St. Peter’s Square, itself, is an architectural highlight, designed by Bernini in the seventeenth century, and is overlooked by the Loggia della Benedizione, the central balcony from where the pope delivers his Urbi et Orbi blessing at Christmas and Easter. It is here, on the right, where you join the queue to enter St. Peter’s basilica. The line moves quite quickly, however, the time seemed to drag as we stood in the heat of the August afternoon, making our way to the security screening area.
Finally, we entered the massive church and as always, I found myself unsure of where to turn first. There is so much to see on the main level of St. Peter’s including the Michelangelo’s Pieta, located to the right of the entrance, between the Holy Door and the altar of Saint Sebastian.. Carved from a single slab of marble, it was created by Michelangelo when he was only twenty-two years of age and is one of his first works of art. It is the only piece he ever created that was signed.
Take a look around on the floor nearby, and see if you can spot the red disk that marks that spot where Charlemagne and later Holy Roman Emperors were crowned by the pope.
Walking along the right and left naves, there were many side altars to admire, each more beautiful than the next, but it was what was at the high altar that commanded our attention. Here, Bernini’s famous baldachin is supported by four spiral columns and made with bronze from taken from the Pantheon. The baldechin stands over the altar which sits above the site of St. Peter’s grave. So holy is this site that the pope is the only priest allowed to serve at the altar.
Above us, the dome, also created by Michelangelo, was another of the basilica’s highlights. Soaring to a height of almost four hundred feet, this dome was based on Brunelleschi’s design for the Duomo in Florence. The cupola is supported by four stone piers names after the saints whose statues adorn the Bernini designed niches…Longinus, Helena, Veronica and Andrew. Having been up in the cupola before, I was anxious to see the remaining features before heading upwards.
Another of the basilica’s treasures is the 13th century bronze statue of St. Peter. Designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, what is immediately noticed is that statue’s right foot is extremely shiny…due to the centuries of caresses by visitors hoping to receive blessings by rubbing the extremity.
Heading into the Museo Storico Artistico, located in the left nave, we perused the multitude of sacred relics, including a jewel-studded cross gifted to the church by emperor Justinian II, a 6th century Crux Vaticana and a tabernacle by Donatello.
Finding our way to the Vatican Grottoes beneath the basilica, it is here that visitors can pay their respects to the tombs and sarcophagi of 91 popes that have served the Catholic church during its long history. You can also see the several large columns from the original 4th century basilica here, but my favorite part of being in this space is the tomb of the most beloved St. John Paul II, the second longest-serving pope in modern history who is credited in ending Communist rule. It is also interesting to note that in addition to the entombed popes, there are three women laid to rest here; Queen Christina of Sweden, Agnesina Colonna Caetani and Queen Charlotte of Cyprus.
Beneath this area, excavations have uncovered what is believed to be the tomb of St. Peter. This area, however, is accessible only to those escorted by a guide, booked well in advance.
Making our way back upstairs, we decided that it was time to head upstairs, to the dome and the cupola. The dome’s ticket entrance is located on the right of the basilica’s main portico and a major decision is to be made here when purchasing a ticket.
Walk up the 551 steps to the top (kudos to those who do) or take the lift halfway and climb the remaining 320 steps. Of course, we had had a long day, traveling from Naples and exploring the Vatican, so you probably guess what our decision was.
After exiting the lift, we walked around the first level, taking in the beautiful mosaics that line the walls making up the dome’s design and the birds’ eye view of the basilica below.
Walking out onto the roof of the basilica, we walked out to check out the statues of Jesus and the Apostles that can be seen on the roof of the basilica from the square. There is also a bathroom, a refreshment stand and a gift shop that you can mail your Vatican City postmarked postcards from.
Continuing onward and upward, it was here that the journey becomes a little more challenging. This second part requires the climbing of the remaining 320 steps to the top. There is a narrow, single-file, spiral staircase that requires you to lean in to accommodate the slanting of the roof and at the end, a corkscrew staircase. Though there are some windows along the way, this part definitely made me feel extremely claustrophobic and I could not wait to reach the top.
Once I did, however, the views of the city and St. Peter’s Square below were breathtaking!
Who could ever tire of this?
That’s why I keep coming back!
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Address: Piazza San Pietro, 00120 Città del Vaticano, Vatican City
Hours: October 1 until March 31, 0700-1830, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1900. Dome Access, October 1 until March 31, 0730-1700, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1800.
Admission: Basilica, free. Dome Access, including lift to terrace level and continue on foot (320 steps), € 10.00. Ascent on foot (551 steps), € 8.00. Reductions for schools are possible by presenting an attestation of the Institute with the list of participants, € 5.00
Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from St. Peter’s Basilica.
There are many unique highlights that visitors aspire to visit on a trip to the Rome.
There is one, however, that tops the list.
The Sistine Chapel.
Located in Vatican City, the smallest country in the world, the Vatican Museums receive more than six million visitors a year who come to see the seventeen museums that make up the complex. The Sistine Chapel, is the pièce de résistance.
Having been to the Vatican museums many years ago on a couple of occasions, I knew that in order to obtain entrance to the Sistine Chapel, there are many chambers and rooms to pass through and countless masterpieces to study before reaching the famed chapel.
Being the height of the summer season, the line snaked around the exterior of the building and the interior was overloaded, Walking slowly, shoulder to shoulder, we quickly realized that reaching the Sistine Chapel was going to take an extensive amount of time and much jockeying for position.
Passing through the various collections, the Gregorian Profane Museum, Ethnological Missionary Museum, Pinacoteca, Pio-Clementino Museum, Rafaello Rooms and the Chiaramonti Museum, we struggled with the heat and the incessant jostling from other people trying to see what each collection had to offer.
The one thing I realized was that I was enduring this to show my son the glorious treasure that awaited us deep in the museum. A glorious ceiling painted by Michaelangelo…and yet, as I looked here, above me, there were countless paintings over my head. Yes, many artworks on the walls, but each room’s ceilings were painted exquisitely, setting the stage for what was to come.
We admired what we could in each of the galleries, but I kept my head aimed high and marveled at what was above.
Finally, we spotted the signs directing us to the Sistine Chapel!
As we entered the chapel, I immediately snapped a picture of the ceiling and was reprimanded by one of the guards. Making our way into the throng of people passing along the outer wall, I realized that if we kept walking, we were going to leave the chapel without having had the time to inspect what had taken so long to reach. Pushing out of the moving queue, we made our way to the center of the room where there were many people standing.
Protected from guarded eyes by the people around me, I was able to capture a few photographs of the jewel of the Vatican before just taking a few moments to relish the fact that we were indeed in one of the most magnificent holy places and working chapels in the world.
The Sistine Chapel was erected between the years of 1473 and 1481 by architect Giovanni dei Dolci under the orders of Pope Sixtus IV. Although its exterior is nothing spectacular, the interior is what over 6 million visitors come to see annually. Its frescoes on the side walls were painted by Florentine Renaissance masters (1481-1483) and depict the lives of Christ and Moses and various popes. The lowest parts of the side walls are covered for ceremonial occasions, depicting events from the Gospels and the Acts of the Apostles and were designed by Raphael (1515-1519).
The most important part of the chapel are the reason all visitors leave with a crook in their necks…the frescoes by Michelangelo on the ceiling and on the west wall behind the altar. The entire collection of frescoes on the ceiling are collectively known as the Sistine Ceiling and were commissioned by Pope Julius II in 1508 depicting incidents and personages from the Old Testament. Many years later (1534-1541), Michaelangelo was commissioned again, by Pope Paul III, to paint the Last Judgment fresco on the west wall.
It is so spectacular, it is almost too much to take in and before long, we realized that we had outstayed our welcome. Reluctantly finding our way to the exit, we entered the Borgia apartments and continued our journey through the remaining parts of the museum.
To see everything that the Vatican Museums has to offer, it would take days. The Vatican Museums encompass the world’s largest private art collection (with its origins dating back to 1503) and most of what is in their possession, not on display. If you are interested in seeing as much as you can of the Vatican Museums, I would recommend starting your day early and having a plan, including a map with the items you are most interested in seeking out. Since on this day, we had hoped to see what we could of the museums, with the Sistine Chapel being our main focus, and St. Peter’s Basilica, we limited ourselves to what little we could achieve.
Me? Since I had been there before on a couple of occasions, I was content that I had seen something new. Never before had I realized what was over my head when I was so mesmerized by all that was around me. I understand that many people have that one opportunity to visit Rome and see what they can. Thankfully, I have been blessed to have had more than one chance.
If you ever find yourself in Rome for a second (or third) time, take the time to go back to the Vatican again and again. You never know what else you might find!
What you can expect to see in each of the museums:
Pio-Clementino Museum: Created by popes Clement XIV and Pius VI, this museum holds the most important Greek works in the Vatican.
Apartment of Pius V: The work of Pope Pius V, this museum contains Flemish tapestries from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, a collection of medieval ceramics and another of medieval miniature mosaics.
Gallery of the Chandeliers: Roman replicas of Greek originals and enormous chandeliers from the second century A.D. decorate this elegant gallery.
Ethnological Missionary Museum: This museum contains works of art from all the papal missions of the world, among which there are objects originating from Tibet, Indonesia, India, the Far East, Africa and America.
Gallery of Maps: Carried out between the years 1580 and 1585, the beautiful maps painted in fresco on the walls of this gallery represent the Italian regions and the possessions of the Church.
Historical Museum – Carriage Pavilion: In this section you will find coaches, saddles, cars, and Vatican City’s first locomotive.
Gallery of Tapestries: Exhibition of Flemish tapestries created between 1523 and 1534.
Pio-Christian Museum: The collection of Christian antiquities is composed of statues, sarcophagi and archaeological ruins from the sixth century.
Pinacoteca: The eighteen rooms in the Pinacoteca building contain pictorial works dating from the Middle Ages until 1800.
Sobieski Room and the Room of the Immaculate: In both rooms you will find paintings originating in the Italian “Ottocento”.
Egyptian Museum: Among other pieces acquired by the popes you can find some impressive Egyptian sculptures, besides the prized sarcophagi from the third century B.C. There are also some black basalt statues originating from the Villa Adriana, which are replicas of Egyptian models.
Etruscan museum: This part of the museum contains elements of ceramic, bronze and gold belonging to the Etruscan civilization.
Chiaramonti Museum: Created thanks to Pius VII Chiaramonti, this gallery holds thousands of sculptures including portraits of emperors, images of the gods and some funeral monuments.
Gregorian Profane Museum: Greek and Roman sculptures are exhibited here from the first to third centuries A.D.
Borgia Apartment: The apartments that belonged to the Pope Alexander VI Borgia today serve as exhibition rooms for the Collection of Modern Religious Art.
Raphael Rooms: Rafael and his assistants decorated the apartments of the Pope Julius II.
Sala Della Biga: Holding court in this space is a monumental marble figure of a chariot drawn by two horses carried out in the first century A.D.
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Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1800 (final entry, 1600). Every last Sunday of the month, 0900-1400 (final entry, 1230). Closed on Sundays (except the last Sunday of each month), 1 January, 11 February 19 March, 22 April, 1 May, 29 June, 14 and 15 August, 1 November, 25 and 26 December
Admission: No guide. Adults, 17.00€, Reduced 8.00€, Online booking fee, 4.00€. For audioguide, add additional 7.00€. Prices vary for guided tours, please consult Vatican Official website.
Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from Vatican City.
Important to note:Proper dress is required and visitors can be denied access even with a ticket. The following clothing items are not allowed in the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Gardens…mini skirts, shorts above the knee, sleeveless tops, lowcut clothing, hats. The Vatican’s dress code applies to both men and women.
Most people visit the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin only to see the Mouth of Truth.
Even when approaching the church, visitors often forget to admire the medieval facade with its seven open arches, seven windows and slender Romanesque belltower (added in the 12th century), as they ponder the long line snaking out from the portico.
Should we wait? Or shouldn’t we?
Whether one decides to take their place in the interminable line to place their hand between the jaws of the stone face’s mouth or not, a short visit to the church should be in order.
Santa Maria in Cosmedin was founded during the sixth century on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to Hercules Invictus which was last rebuilt in the 2nd century BC.
With its name being derived from the Greek word, kosmidioin, meaning ornamented, it would be expected that the interior would be one decorated beautifully. Though that was once the case, the minor basilica’s only surviving enhancements are some floor mosaics, a bishop’s chair, a ceremonial canopy and the medieval choir enclosure.
The church’s main draw, however, is the glass shrine with the skull of St. Valentine, patron saint of love, located on the left side of the church. Once located in the lower level crypt, the remains of the martyr, who now lends his name to the holiday we celebrate on February 14 (the day of his death) can be admired on its own altar. The skull wears a wreath of flowers and has a stenciled inscription across the skull.
Though there are ten St. Valentine’s listed in the Roman Catholic register of saints, the one whose skull resides in Santa Maria in Cosmedin church is believed to be a holy priest who assisted St. Marius in giving aid to the martyrs persecuted under Claudius II. After being summoned by the Emperor to Rome, demanded to renounce his faith and refusing, he was beaten and beheaded.
The church is quite small but make sure not to miss the ancient Crypt of Adrian I, located under the presbytery. Created between the years of 772 and 795, it is a small space divided into three naves by six columns and reminiscent of a small basilica. There is a small altar at the far end and it is believed that the crypt once housed other relics (Cirilla, Adauctus, Valentino, Adriano, Amelia, Antonino, Clemenza, Generous, Ottavio, Patrick, Olympia and St. John Baptist de Rossi). According to legend, an ancient tunnel once connected the crypt to the catacombs on the Appian Way.
Santa Maria in Cosmedin is located adjacent to Circus Maximus and just across the river from the Trastevere, the funky bohemian area of Rome filled with restaurants, shops and of course, more churches.
Make sure to include it in your day of sightseeing…then you can say you had a Happy Valentine’s Day!
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Well, you can strap them to a lie detector and administer the test.
If you happen to be in Rome, however, you can take them to the Mouth of Truth.
Located under the portico at the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, the carved marble disk, also known as the La Bocca della Verita, displays the face of a man.
And he bites...if you are a liar!
Dating back to around the 1st century CE, the carving is of a humanoid face with hollow holes for eyes and a gaping mouth. Though it is not sure why it was created, it has been theorized that the medallion acted as a manhole cover, a fountain decoration or maybe even a ceremonial well cover. Possibly a pagan god, no one is entirely sure whose features the face was modeled on.
This face, however, is thought to elicit the truth from those who dare to place their hand in its mouth, as it is either the truth or a bite.
Be prepared for a long wait, the line always extends outside of the church onto the sidewalk. If you really don’t want to wait, however, you can always just take a quick picture through the bars. If you do wait, however, be prepared to tell the truth if a question is asked of you!
So, did I get a question?
My son asked me if I was having fun.
The answer?
YES!
I was getting to share all of my favorite sites in Rome with him!
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Mouth of Truth
Address: Piazza della Bocca della Verità, 18, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
Say it, moving your mouth, but not emitting a sound.
It looks like your are saying, “I Love Oil”.
Well, if it is oil, as in olive oil…I do love it!
I will admit, I never knew a lot about what makes one olive oil better than another. Last year, standing in the olive oil section of a grocery store in Athens, I was stumped. I needed some to bring home, but I had no ideas as to which one was better than the next. Finally, a kindly older gentleman took pity on me and helped me pick out a couple of bottles. Situation solved on that trip.
But, yes, I definitely needed an olive oil education!
So, when my friend texted me and asked if I would be interested in joining her on an olive oil tour while we were both in Rome, of course, I said YES!
Heading out into to cold, wet May afternoon, it didn’t quite seem as though we were nearing the Italian summer months. Still, we had a plan and the wet stuff was not going to hamper our good time!
From the Tiburtina station, we caught a train to Fara Sabina where we would meet our tour guide, Johnny Madge, a Brit who has lived in the area since the early 80’s. A former marble sculptor, he has evolved into a world class olive oil judge after buying a farmhouse in the middle of an olive grove and learning everything he could about the small oval fruit.
Johnny, a good natured gentleman, first took us for a coffee (to help perk us up a bit) and then we headed out onto the small, dirt roads of the Italian countryside. Since the skies were growing darker by the minute, we decided to first head to the tree that bears the title of the Oldest Olive Tree in Europe…there are signs along the way to prove it, though the Olive Tree of Vouves in Crete would probably disagree!
This tree sits in the yard of one of the locals…not in an olive grove as you might expect. It was conveyed that owner will sometimes come out and say hello (anticipating a few coins for his trouble), but on this day, I am guessing that the weather kept him inside.
We ventured through his yard, passing his pet peacocks and his prized pizza oven (doesn’t every Italian have one in their yard?) and to through the small stone wall which protects the area around the gigantic tree, which is said to be about 2,000 years old and still productive. This tree’s girth is so large that it takes about five people to hug it and is hollow in the inside. The massive branches are so heavy and tall that the owner has taken some steps to give it some stability.
Continuing on our journey, we stopped at a nearby olive grove and inspected a mere baby…only 500 years old. Also, hollow, it provided for some fun souvenir photos!
Johnny was a wealth of information and continually pulled over to the side of the road to show us different herbs and flowers that are native to the region. It was amazing to realize how much someone can glean from the land…something us city folks don’t often think about!
Because it was a Sunday, we were unable to visit the places where the olives are sorted and made into olive oil, a little disappointing, but expected. As we pulled into the parking lot of one particular place of business, Johnny explained the pruning and picking process to us and how the olives are pressed into olive oil. He further went on to explain how the determination is made as to whether an olive oil is categorized as extra virgin or not…something I never knew!
Driving onward on the winding roads, we looked up on the ridge of the mountainside at the beautiful town of Toffia, with is church standing proudly at the highest point and a grotto devoted to the Blessed Virgin down below in the valley.
Driving to the entrance gate, we were able to snap a few photos as the rain came down upon us.
Next stop was the small town of Farfa. Bordered by olive groves on either side, this picturesque village with unique boutiques, quaint restaurants and pretty houses is also home to one of the most famous abbeys in Europe, belonging to the Benedictine Order. Entering the abbey, I wasn’t aware of its status at the time, but I knew it was something special…unlike anything I had seen anywhere before. The cathedral was divided into three naves and every surface covered in beautiful friezes, with a stunning lunette representing the Virgin and the Child in the middle. Several chapels line the exterior walls and the interior wall of the facade showcases a large canvas of Last Judgment (1571) by Flemish painter Henrik van der Broek.
Such an important, historic place, several kings (including Charlemagne), emperors and Popes (including most recently Pope John Paul II, 19th May 1993) have visited the Abbey throughout the centuries.
Guided tours are offered on in Italian every day except on Mondays and would be a great way to see all parts of the church, including the crypt entrance and the archaeological museum if you have the time as well as the surrounding grounds.
Wandering around the village we stepped into many of the artisan’s shops inspecting their beautifully hand-made wares…of course, Mother’s Day was coming up and some tea towels to wrap around olive oil bottles was a must!
Finally, with the sun getting lower in the afternoon sky, we headed to the town of Montopoli. It was here at a local pizza restaurant, where we finally sat with Johnny to have an olive oil tasting. Explaining to us how to slurp the oil to the back of our throats, it was there that we were looking for a burn, thus giving us the knowledge that it was indeed, extra virgin. Sampling three different olive oils with our delicious meal was the something new to me…I never thought that I could drink olive oil straight, something very good for us Johnny explained and I never realized how differently olive oil could taste.
With full bellies, we packed up our belongings into Johnny’s van and headed back to the Fara Sabina train station for our ride into the still wet Rome but with a greater knowledge of Italy’s olive oil!
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Address: Via del Monastero, 1, 02032 Castelnuovo di Farfa RI, Italy
Hours: 1000-1900. Guided tours are performed hourly every day except on Monday from 1000 to 1300 and from 1530 to 1830 (Sat. and Sun. 1500-1900 during Summer)
Even the Romans did it a couple of thousand years ago!
With so many things to visit in the Colosseum area, it was a hard decision as to what my destination would be on the warm, sunny day…
The Colosseum?
The Forum?
The Palatine?
The Altare della Patria?
I hadn’t been shopping lately…maybe it was a good day to see the place believed to be the first shopping mall ever constructed.
The Trajan Market.
Today, the arcades in Trajan’s Market are known to not only have housed shopping but administrative offices for Emperor Trajan after its inauguration in 113 A.D. The complex included a covered market, small shop fronts and a residential apartment block. The structure comprised three levels, built into the adjacent hillside, with the ground level including alcoves used for small shops which opened onto the street.
Looking for a “Trajan Market” sign (or the Italian equivalent) marking the entrance, I must have walked past the actual entrance three or four times before I realized that the Museum of the Imperial Fora was where I needed to be.
The multilevel structure, opened in 2007, is a fascinating place filled with artifacts from all of ancient Rome’s forums and fills the space where the ancient mall once operated. The former shopping area was spread out on two different sides of the complex and the elegant marble floors and the remains of a library are still visible. The primary products sold at the market would have come from across the empire and included fruit, vegetables, fish, wine, oil and spices.
The name of the street on the upper level of the Market, Biberatica, gives a clue to what may have occupied the spaces here. The Latin word, biber, meaning drink gives rise to the notion that various drinking establishments were available to serve the market shoppers. This area was covered by a concrete vault which allowed air and light into the central space and the intricate brickwork is fascinating, both in its construction and the fact that it still remains almost flawless…as it was the day it was erected.
Walking to the far end of the building, I utilized the stairway and headed to the courtyard on the side of the market. Here, current exhibitions are on display and I was pleasantly surprised to discover The Spiral, an installation designed by artist Luminita Taranu, inspired by the Trajan’s Column. I loved the colorful hues and metals used in the creation of this masterpiece…and I loved the photo opportunities it presented!
Finally, I moved into the open rear area, entering the large halls, once probably used for auditions and concerts. As I walked through the smaller, concrete and brick spaces, I found some of the 170 total rooms empty and some housing information on the ancient marketplace.
Still, the most impressive part of the the complex was standing out on the top of the semicircular balcony, looking out over the ruins, including the Torre delle Milizie, built in 1200, and the neighboring Forum and Altare della Patria.
Walking back through the interior part of the compound, I took more time to inspect the intricacies of the construction and the pieces that occupied its interior.
No great sales were found, but I can say, it was a great deal to experience firsthand, what it must have been like to shop this extraordinary venue almost two thousand years ago.
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Address: Via Quattro Novembre, 94, 00187 Roma RM, Italy
Hours: 0930-1930, daily. 0930-1400, December 24 and 31. Closed January 1, May 1 and December 25
Admission: Adults, €15.00. Reduced, €13.00. Citizens residing in the territory of Roma Capital (proof required). Reduced, €11.00. Includes museum entrance and exhibitions.
Getting There: Take the metro, Blue line and get off at Colosseo.
Looking for a “Trajan Market” sign (or the Italian equivalent) marking the entrance, I must have walked past the actual entrance three or four times before I realized that the Museum of the Imperial Fora was where I needed to be.
Walking to the far end of the building, I utilized the stairway and headed to the courtyard on the side of the market. Here, current exhibitions are on display and I was pleasantly surprised to discover The Spiral, an installation designed by artist Luminita Taranu, inspired by the Trajan’s Column. I loved the colorful hues and metals used in the creation of this masterpiece…and I loved the photo opportunities it presented!
Walking back through the interior part of the compound, I took more time to inspect the intricacies of the construction and the pieces that occupied its interior.
