travel – Page 18 – Snapping The Globe

Walks, Winds and Ways

If spending time outdoors while visiting Bruges is more interesting than fighting other tourists for space in a museum or a crowded bar, there is much to keep you busy.

Spectacular architecture fills the city at every turn but if you are looking for a lovely place to stroll, exercise or even enjoy a picnic, head over to the eastern side of Bruges.

Aware that Belgium has a rich mill history dating back to the 16th century when twenty-three windmills graced the city, I was anxious to set aside some time during our visit to see the four mills that dot the city’s landscape and once produced the flour needed for the daily diet of the urban population.

Heading from the city center, it took us about fifteen minutes to reach the first windmill, located near the Kruispoort gate, which is quite fascinating in itself. The Kruispoort was completed in 1304 and rebuilt a short time later in 1366. It was destroyed in 1382 when Philip van Artevelde captured the city with the Ghent militia. The gate was reconstructed in 1400 with the two heavy towers and a narrow passage being preserved. It should be noted that this was the location where the Scottish soldiers crossed into Bruges during the city’s liberation during World War 2.

The Kruispoort gate is one of four remaining gates to the city. The others, Gentpoort (on the eastern side), Ezelpoort (dating back to 1369) and Smedenpoort (dating back to 1368) are all worth a visit when walking the entire circuit around the city. The Dampoort, probably the most noteworthy due to its massive size (a complex of three interconnected gates), was demolished in 1871, but a part of one of the round towers is still visible.

Ezelpoort, located on Ezelstraat on the crossing of Ezelstraat and the Gulden-Vlieslaan

Gentpoort, located on Gentpoortstraat on the crossing of the Gentpoorstraat, Boninvest and Gentpoortvest

Smedenpoort (The Blacksmith’s Gate), located at the end of Smedenstraat on the crossing of the Smedenstraat and Buiten Boninvest

After walking through the Kruispoort, we began our walk along the ramparts and the canal to examine each of the windmills.

The first we encountered was Bonne Chiere also known as Staakmolen or Post Mill. Originally built in 1844 and then rebuilt at its current location in its same architectural style, this mill was never used for grinding grain. It is not open for visitors, however, you can walk right up to the structure for excellent views.

Sint-Janshuismill was located a short walk away. Built in 1770, this is the only mill standing on its original location and the only one open to the public. The wooden flour mill is still in operation.

A little further, we encountered Nieuwe Papegaai. Originally built in 1790 as an oil mill called the Hoge Seinemolen, this mill was moved to its current location in 1970. Similar to the other mills, this one has one a quirky piece of art perched on its roof…a parrot!

Finally, we reached the fourth and final windmill, Koeleweimolen, also known as the Coelewey Mill which was used for grinding corn. This mill was transported from Meulebeke where it was constructed in 1765.

Although it would have been nice to walk the entire circuit around the city to see the other gates, time was not on our side. It was fascinating, however, to witness some of historical construction outside of the city center and the picturesque scenes along the canal.

Besides, who doesn’t love a windmill?

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Kruispoort

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/kruispoort-kruispoort-gate
Address: Langestraat 191 , Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Located on Langestraat on the crossing of Langestraat, Kruisvest and Kazernevest.

Ezelpoort

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/ezelpoort-donkeys-gate
Address: Ezelstraat 122 , Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Located on Ezelstraat on the crossing of Ezelstraat and the Gulden-Vlieslaan.

Geentpoort

Address: Gentpoortvest, Bruges 8000 Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Located on Gentpoortstraat on the crossing of the Gentpoorstraat, Boninvest and Gentpoortvest.

Smedenpoort

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/smedenpoort-blacksmiths-gate
Address: Buiten de Smedenpoort 1, Bruges 8000 Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Located at the end of Smedenstraat on the crossing of the Smedenstraat and Buiten Boninvest.

Bonne-Chieremolen

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/windmills-of-bruges
Address: Kruisvest 5, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: No visitors allowed inside.

Sint-Janshuismill

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/windmills-of-bruges
Address: Kruisvest 3, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: May 21-31, 0930-1300. June-September, 0930-1230 and 1300-1700, Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Monday.
Admission: Adults, €4.00, Seniors 65+, €3.00, Youth (ages 18-25), €3.00, Children (ages 0-17), free

Nieuwe Papegaai

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/windmills-of-bruges
Address: Kruisvest 3, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: No visitors allowed inside.

Koeleweimolen

https://www.visitbruges.be/en/windmills-of-bruges
Address: Kruisvest 11, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: No visitors allowed inside.

Nothing To Sea

With a location near the North Sea, how could you not expect to get the freshest seafood in Bruges?

The Vismarkt, also known as the Fish Market, is centrally located near Burg Square and is the place to purchase the freshest fish and seafood in the city. The current location, dating back to 1821, was erected following the townspeople’s request to move it from Market Square, where the smell was overwhelming. The building was constructed, per Napoleon’s order to the city mayor to modernize public facilities, and still remains in excellent condition.

Though it would have been nice to see the market in action, we visited on a Monday, one of the two days the market is closed. The covered arcade usually bustles with fishmongers hawking their catch and sometimes artists and artisans displaying their creations. If you have to pick a day to visit, however, Friday nights, during summer, offer live concerts and open-air tapas bars with fish based snacks.

For those interested in the history of the city and hoping to get something for dinner, combine it with a walk along the scenic canal and a photo op with the bust of former mayor Frank Van Acker.

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Vismarkt

Address, Groenerei Canal, 8000 Bruges, Belgium
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday, 0800-1330
Admission: free
Getting There: Bus, 4, 6, 14, 16, 88

Nothing But Torture

When you are on a romantic weekend with your spouse, visiting a Torture Museum is not what one normally thinks of…unless maybe you are Christian Grey.

So maybe those with certain fetishes might enjoy this kind of setting or if you are upset with your spouse and searching for ways to make him suffer for not mowing the lawn, it might be of interest.

Seriously though, crazy experiences shared together are what you look back on and laugh at later!

As my husband and I were investigating the streets of Bruges, we happened upon this museum. Though it wasn’t high on my list of things to see, we ultimately decided that it might be thought-provoking.

The Torture Museum, located in a former fortress designed to protect Bruges, later became one of the oldest historical European prisons. During the 14th century, it became known as the “Old Stone” or “Oude Steen”.

The museum is a chronological maze of more than 100 torture devices, often displayed with realistic wax figures. As we made our way from the opening act, Vlad the Impaler, with a head firmly planted on the top of a spear, to various contraptions such as the Rack, the Cat’s Paw and the Drunkard’s Cloak, it was obvious that committing crimes, even petty ones, during medieval times, was something to ponder seriously as the punishments were so severe. These instruments were engineered to cause unbelievable humiliation, pain and suffering on the human body and mind.

Many of these devices we recognized from books and television shows but some were new. The method of peine forte et dure (hard and forceful punishment) was a form of torture which inflicted punishment on those accused of a felony, but who would neither plead guilty or not guilty. The accused was placed under a board upon which heavier and heavier stones were arranged until either a plea was entered or the defendant died from suffocation.

The Heretic’s Fork was an abominable tool resembling a two-way steel fork with sharp spikes that was attached by a leather belt to the victim’s neck. It was often used for charges of heresy and witchcraft. Just thinking about moving your chin…ouch!

Another that I though quite interesting, and not so gruesome, was the Straw Plait. A heavy plait of hair, that was braided from straw, was woven into the hair of a woman for offences that referred to feminine dignity, such as low necklines or seductive gaits. Though not a severe punishment, it is imaginable that this heavy addition to the head would prove to be cumbersome.

The Violin Gossip gave me a good laugh as I imagined two quarreling women secured into this contraption, facing each other and unable to escape each’s presence. This was an instrument used often to punish gossipers and to settle quarrels.

And of course, there was the guillotine, ever ready with a woven basket awaiting a bloody addition and a variety of other tools and executioner’s outfits. The most horrific, in my opinion, was Rat Torture. Though I have seen this depicted in horror and gangster movies, to see a wax figure in a former dungeon portraying this form of torture is disturbing to say the least. For those who do not know what this cheap and effective torment entails, let me describe it for you. Imagine the victim completely restrained and tied to the ground or another surface. A rat is then placed on their stomach and covered by a metallic container. As the container is heated, the rat then begins to look for a way out. Since the container is too hard to dig through…well…

Wandering through this former prison, though gruesome at times, was a dark journey through time when torture was a widespread form of punishment. One of the most intriguing museums that we have ever visited, we learned a great deal about the discipline and persecution experienced from the 13th to 18th centuries.

And no, there wasn’t anything that I thought would be suitable to use as punishment for my husband making me angry!

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Torture Museum Bruges “Oude Steen”

http://torturemuseum.be/
Address: Wollestraat 29, 8000 Brugge, Belgium
Hours: 1030-1800, daily. Open until 2100 during July and August
Admission: Adults, €8, Students, €6, Seniors (aged 60+), €7, Groups, €6

No Bats In This Belfrey

There is a movie called In Bruges.

Ever hear of it?

I will admit, I have never seen it, but for some reason, I was always intrigued with the idea of visiting Bruges.

My stays in Belgium have always consisted of a short twenty-four hours in Brussels, leaving me to think that I never had enough time to travel to Bruges, after my oh-so-important nap…after flying all night. When my husband and I decided to take a trip to Brussels for a few days, he was informed that plan number one included a day trip to Bruges.

After an hour’s train ride, we arrived in Bruges and made our way toward the city’s center. I had done a bit of legwork and made a list of some things that would be of interest to both my husband and I.

Having a quick bite (Belgian waffles, of course!), we sat in the cozy little cafe and gaze out into the Market Square, centered with a statue paying tribute to Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck, leaders of the Bruges Matin, an uprising against the French in the 14th. The square is surrounded by beautiful and historic architecture including the Provincial Court building and the majestic Belfort.

The Belfort was where we were going to start our exploration, though knowing that 366 steps to the top was involved…I was a bit apprehensive. But dressed for the occasion in my most comfortable boots, I was ready to see what this historic landmark would offer.

The 13th century Belfort is one of the three historically important towers of Bruges (with the Church of Our Lady and St. Saviour’s Cathedral) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Standing 83 meters high, the tower formerly housed a treasury, the municipal archives and served as an observation post for spotting fires, invaders and other dangers.

As we entered the former market hall, we climbed the stairs to the second level where the ticket counter is located. After purchasing our tickets, we were required to wait at the turnstile until it was unlocked and let us through…this was after two other people left the tower. One in, one out. It is unimaginable how lengthy the lines must become during the busier summer months!

Beginning our climb, we took it slowly and were happy to have a break when we reached the former Treasury. Here, the privileges, city’s charters, city’s seal and its accounts and funds were stored in this vaulted room from the thirteenth century onward. These precious documents were stored in padlocked chests behind the heavy wrought iron doors.

The belfry was also a meeting location for the town aldermen and was the preferred location for proclamations. These announcements were read from the balcony of the hall tower.

Continuing our climb, we headed upward to the next part of the tower which offered an explanation of how time was measured, how this process evolved over time and its importance to the citizens of Bruges. In this medieval city, the sound of the bells ruled the lives of its citizens and were used as a way of organizing their daily routines. Combinations of the pitches of these bells let citizens know exactly what was the time of day and what events were to take place. For example, the work bell was rung for the start of the working day, the noon bell signaled time for a lunch break and the evening bell marked the hour when the city’s gates were closed. The ringing of the bells also marked certain occasions such as a call to battle, the outbreak of fire, proclamations, public executions or the beginning and end of market days. The tower guards, who were responsible for sounding the bells, often passed the time between the hours, practicing their trades. A job often held by cobblers, you can probably imagine many a shoe was created here.

Today, Bruges has a city carillonneur who plays the bells on Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays from 1100 to noon. If you are visiting during the summer months, keep your ears pealed for special carillon concerts.

Taking a deep breath, we ascended the stairs to reach the Drum Room which not only displayed some of the ten great bells that have graced the tower since 1280, but the largest, brought over from the Church of Our Lady. This great bell weighs approximately six tons and has a diameter of almost seven feet. The drum is the largest in existence and thought to weigh nine tons. It plays a melody every quarter of the hour and every half hour is marked with a short musical signal. Every two years, the music is changed. The clock, which can be spied from the square below, was made in 1748 and is operated by a three meter long pendulum.

Finally (and breathlessly), we reached the top of the tower in which the bells can be seen hanging from the rafters. This is the spot which you really appreciate the three hundred sixty-six steps that you just climbed! Unparalleled views of the city are like no other.

Heading back down was much easier than than the climb to the top, however, it was took a bit of maneuvering when encountering those heading upwards, as the circular stairways were quite narrow.

As we both exited the tower, I looked to my right at the line that had formed near the ticket counter. The light turned green, the turnstile unlocked and two other eager visitors moved through, ready to make the climb.

We walked out to the square and took a look upward, seeing from the exterior what we had just seen from the inside. This ancient tower that actually leans eighty-seven centimeters to the east and has played an important role in its citizens’ lives for centuries…

Now I really need to go and watch In Bruges to see it from another perspective!

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Bruges Belfort (Belfry and Carillon)

https://www.museabrugge.be/en/visit-our-museums/our-museums-and-monuments/belfort
Address: Markt 7 , Brugge
Hours: 0930-1800, daily. Closed January 1, December 25 and March 12. Closed at 1300 on May 21 and at 1600 on December 24 and 31.
Admission: Adults, €12,00, Seniors 65+, €10,00, Children (ages 0-5 years), €0,00, Youth (ages 5-25 years), €10,00

The Bread House

Standing tall in the Grand Place of Brussels, there are two grandiose buildings facing each other that set the tone for the city’s majestic square.

Each is so intricate and beautiful, and I have captured both photographically many times. If you had asked me prior to my last trip, if I knew what each was, however, I would honestly have had to say absolutely not!

On one side, you have Brussels’ City Hall and on the other side is the Broodhuis (Bread House), a UNESCO World Heritage Site which houses the Brussels City Museum. I thought that my husband might have enjoyed visiting City Hall, however, after entering the courtyard and the ticket office, we were informed that the next English tour would not be until later that afternoon. Since we had other plans for later in the day, we decided that the tour would have to wait.

Moving onward, we headed over to Manneken Pis and then the museum that acts as his own personal closet, Garderobe Manneken Pis. As we purchased our admission, we were given the option to buy the combination ticket which also allowed access into the Broodhuis. Mulling over the decision, I learned something that I never knew. The Manneken Pis that every one goes to see (including us) is an IMPOSTER! The real Manneken Pis, for security reasons, is kept in the Broodhuis.

This cemented our decision…we were heading there next!

Once a wooden bread market building built in the 13th century, the Broodhuis was replaced by the Duke of Brabant during the 15th century. While City Hall symbolized the city’s independence, the new Broodhouis was designed to be a symbol of his power.

Also known as the Maison du Roi (King’s House), named for the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, who once owned the Bread House, the building was destroyed in the 16th century and rebuilt in the 19th century in the Gothic Revival style that we see today.

As we made our way through the Broodhuis, we learned a great deal about Brussels’ history. There is much attention given to arts, crafts, archaeology and folklore. One complete room was devoted to casts made from the sculptures from the exterior of the building. It was interesting to be able to see what these sculptural entities, only seen from afar, look like up close. Other rooms, gave particular attention to artifacts, tapestries, models and paintings.

What I loved most about this museum, however, was that for all the beauty that can be spied from the outside, the architectural detail is carried on throughout the interior. Carved doorways, stair railings and vaulted ceilings grace the spaces and as I walked from floor to floor, I couldn’t help but gasp at the light illuminating the intricate stained glass windows.

As astounded as we were to inspect this historic space, however, we really had come to see one thing in particular.

Would the REAL Manneken Pis, please stand up?

Okay, he’s already standing…I just really wanted to use that phrase! But seriously, where was he? As we made our way throughout the museum, we kept expecting to turn each corner and find him. Well, you know how this sort of thing works…naturally, he would be placed in the furthest room on the highest floor!

Finally, we discovered him, alone in a glass case. It was almost anticlimactic as I’m so used to seeing his doppelganger set inside his shell-shaped alcove surrounded by hundreds of his adoring fans.

But, alas, we had found him (the REAL him) set inside one of Brussels’ most historic edifices! SO…with the price of a ticket, you have access to two of the city’s most important treasures!

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Brussels City Museum

http://www.brusselscitymuseum.brussels/en
Address: Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles, Grand-Place, 1000 Bruxelles
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1700. Closed on Mondays, January 1, May 1, November 1, November 11 and December 25
Admission: Adults ages 18+, 4€. Under age 18 and citizens of Brussels, free. Free with Brussels card and on the first Sunday of the month. You can purchase a combined ticket for both the Garderobe Manneken Pis and the BrusselsCity Museum, 8€.
Getting There: Bourse tram stop, #3 or #4, , Bus, #48 or #95, Metro, Central Station / Brouckère, Train, Central Station

Manneken Peace

Every woman loves a good outfit!

Why shouldn’t a statue?

Mannekin Pis, the statue which is a huge part of Brussels’ cultural heritage, is one of my favorite landmarks to take new visitors to the city to see. So when my husband joined me on a recent trip, the first place I took him was to see the little “Pissing Boy.”

I have visited this statue on many occasions, but this time, as luck would have it, was the first time I was able to see him in one of his costumes! This was such a coincidence as we were also on our way to the statue’s own special museum. The Garderobe Manneken Pis is located just down the street and houses the statue’s vast collection of costumes. It’s like his own personal closet!

Once housed in the Maison du Roi on the Grand Place, the wardrobe was moved to its current location in February 2017. It was surprising to find it to be such a small museum as I knew that his wardrobe consists of nearly 1,000 items.

The museum displays a selection of more than one hundred costumes, (some dating back to the 17th century) that are presented according to seven themes, geography, folklore, charity and citizens’ associations, trades, celebrities and characters, sports and designers. He is gifted with about fifteen or so new costumes each year and regularly wears the costumes from his collection, being dressed up about 130 times per year.

But where do his costumes come from?

In order to present Manneken Pis with a costume, a request must be made to the Mayor and the Aldermen of the City of Brussels. Certain stipulations must be met before the costume can be accepted, such as the quality of the fabric and that the costume is not being used to promote political purposes, political beliefs or advertising. If the proposal is accepted, the donors are responsible for the creation of the costume according to strict instructions. An official ceremony is then scheduled to be held in City Hall where the new costume is formally received. A procession to the fountain follows the ceremony, where the official dresser presents the new outfit to Manneken Pis and his is outfitted in his newest duds. He wears this new outfit for the rest of the day and it then officially becomes part of his wardrobe. From this time on, the donors can then make a request for Manneken Pis to be dressed in their costume for specific occasions, such as national days of celebrations, a meeting for members of an association or fellowship or to mark a sporting, cultural or charity event.

The costumes were stunning, whimsical, unique and classical. Many come from all over the world, though a great deal (not surprisingly) were donated from his home country of Beligium. My favorites included Mickey Mouse (1969), a traditional costume from Bolivia (2007) and a replica of the original costume given by King Louis XV of France in 1745, which is the oldest outfit in Manneken Pis’s wardrobe.

Some pieces have not withstood the test of time, so in order to view the entire collection, the museum offers an interactive terminal. My favorite thing, however, was the area for visitor’s to dress a replica of Manneken Pis, which, of course, I had to do!

Wouldn’t it be fun to be Manneken Pis’s dresser? I think that this must be a highly coveted job and I wouldn’t mind a piece of that action…keeping Manneken Pis clothed to celebrate events and traditions! Must give him peace to know that he doesn’t have to always be naked! 🙂

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Garderobe Manneken Pis

https://www.brusselsmuseums.be/en/museums/garderobe-mannekenpis
Address: Rue du Chêne 19 Bruxelles
Hours: Tuesday- Sunday, 1000-1700. Closed on Mondays and on January 1, January 5, January 11, November 11, December 25 and December 31. Closes at 1600 on December 24 and December 31.
Admission: Adults ages 18+, 4€. Under age 18 and citizens of Brussels, free. Free with Brussels card and on the first Sunday of the month. You can purchase a combined ticket for both the Garderobe Manneken Pis and the BrusselsCity Museum, 8€.
Getting There: Metro, station Bourse/Beurs, lines 3 and 4. Bus stops, Grand Place/Grote Markt and Cesar de Paepe.

Full List of costumes and origination dates

Historical Charleston

One of the best things about Charleston is that it is a great walking city. With so much history within its boundaries, there is a wealth of information at your fingertips…or rather footsteps…

From block to block, every building, signpost, gate and cobblestone has a story to tell.

Some are marked with signs stating their historical significance.

Some, you can find with a tour guide’s help.

Some, you just need to know.

And some you just stumble upon, along with historical events happening as you walk on by!

Take the time to explore…and learn.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Fighting Fire With Fire (Stations)

Situated on the eastern coast of the United States, Charleston has always been subject to natural disasters. Hurricane season still has the city shuttering up and evacuating when an imposing storm approaches.

In its long and tumultuous history, Charleston has also had to face earthquakes, tornadoes and epidemics, but there was one thing that had an even greater impact on the city.

Fire.

The Great Fire of 1698, swept through Charleston only 28 years after it was first settled, devastating the city. Despite the purchase of firefighting equipment, decrees requiring chimneys to be built from brick or stone and night watches, more fires ravaged the city again in 1700, 1740 and in the 1770’s.

After volunteer fire companies were organized during the first half of the 19th century, over 1600 volunteers were available to protect property owners, however, when the Great Fire of 1861 devastated the city, it was the motivation that the city needed to establish a permanent firefighting organization.

As I walked down Meeting Street and perused the dinner menu for Jestine’s Kitchen posted in the window, I noticed in the reflection, the Firehouse across the street. What really caught my eye, actually, was the the cute Dalmatian statue gracing the front of the station!

This central fire house, along with two others, was built under the orders of Mayor William A. Courtenay and in 1882, the city’s first paid fire department was established.

Walking across the street for a closer look, I discovered a small park on the corner of Meeting and Wentworth streets, adjacent to the fire station. Constructed to honor Mayor Courtenay it houses a cast iron pavilion and a commemorative cast iron bell honoring the mayor’s achievements. There is also a fountain that was originally fed by an artesian well, one of several installed around the city to provide the residents with clean water in the 19th century.

After I visited the garden, I took a peek into the firehouse. In addition, to a modern, shiny fire engine parked in one of the Meeting Street bays, there was also two antiques parked in the bays on Wentworth.

A cool diversion for a hot topic!

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Charleston Fire Department, Station 2/3

Address: 264 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC 29401

The First Shots

There was one thing that I wanted to do while in Charleston but it can sometimes be tricky during the winter.

Fort Sumter.

Less frequent boat schedules and colder weather are sometimes off-putting, so, when I noticed that temperatures were going to be unseasonably warm while I would be in Charleston, I decided that my plan would be a “go”.

Armed with a few layers and an umbrella (just in case), I headed over to the Liberty Square with an intent to catch the afternoon boat. Though it is recommended to purchase tickets in advance during the busier months, I found no problem in purchasing one at the last minute at the National Park Visitor Center.

The Visitor Center offers information about the Fort and its history to browse before boarding the boat and I read through the information while awaiting our boarding time.

The boat, a pseudo paddle wheeler, soon pulled adjacent to the pier. Taking a spot in the front of the boat, I enjoyed the breezy thirty minute ride to the island.

Once we arrived, we were given sixty minutes to tour the fort and the island. National Parks rangers greeted us at the pier and instructed those wanting to take part in the close-of-the-day flag ceremony to follow them to the upper part of the fort. Interesting as that sounded, I was more interested in taking unobstructed photographs, so I used this time, while others were occupied, to walk around the fort.

Construction began on the fort in 1829 and was named for Revolutionary War general and South Carolina native, Thomas Sumter. The fort was one of fifty built as part of a coastal defense program implemented by Congress in 1817 and was erected on a man-made island entirely formed from thousands of tons of granite. It was the site of the Battle of Fort Sumter in 1861, where a thirty-four hour exchange of artillery fire…the first shots of the Civil War…let to a surrender and the occupation by Confederate troops. After the Civil War, the fort was restored by the U.S. military and occupied during the Spanish-American War (1898), World War I (1914-1918) and World War II (1939-1945). In 1948, the fort was decommissioned as a military post and turned over to the National Park Service as a National Historic Site.

Although the fort is built on an 2.4 acre island, there is much to discover including the Powder magazine (where Fort Sumter’s powder was stored) the Gorge Wall (the lightly-armed rear wall facing inland) the Battery Huger (named for War hero, Isaac Huger) and a small museum highlighting the fort’s history and items from its occupation. There are a large number and variety of cannons throughout the property and on the top level, a beautiful view of the bay and Fort Johnson, the site where the first shots of the Civil War were fired from.

An hour goes by pretty quickly and after I had captured my last photograph, the rangers were ushering us out to the waiting boat prepared to take us back to Liberty Square. As the sun was going down, so was the temperature and it was nice to take a seat inside, especially since they were now serving adult beverages!

Nothing like a good adult beverage on a sunset cruise!

That’s what is so great about a visit to Fort Sumter…it’s a two-for-one tour! You not only get a lesson on Civil War history, you get a cruise of the harbor, complete with after-hour beverages. You can even step it up and add to the theme! Have a “shot”!!!

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Fort Sumter

https://www.nps.gov/fosu/index.htm
Address: 340 Concord Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: Ferry Schedule, See Below. National Park Visitor Center, 0830-1700
Admission: Adults (ages 12-61), $24, Seniors and Active Military (62+/Military ID), $22, Children (ages 4-11), $16, Infant (ages under 3), free

Fort Sumter Boat Schedule

Date	Liberty Square – Downtown Charleston	Patriots Point – Mount Pleasant
Jan 2 – Feb 28	11:00 am, 2:30 pm	1:00 pm
Mar 1 – Mar 14	9:30 am, 12:00 pm & 2:30 pm	10:30 am, 1:00 pm
Mar 15-Aug 20 & Labor Day Weekend	9:30 am, 12:00 pm, 2:30 pm & 4:00 pm	10:30 am, 1:00 pm & 3:30 pm**
Aug 21 – Nov 30	9:30 am, 12:00 pm & 2:30 pm	10:30 am, 1:00 pm
Dec 1 – Dec 24	11:00am, 2:30 pm	1:00 pm
Dec 26 – Dec 31	9:30 am, 12:00 pm & 2:30 pm	10:30 am, 1:00 pm
Thanksgiving, Dec 25 & Jan 1	Fort Closed	Fort Closed

The Holy City

The Holy City.

Rome?

No, Charleston.

That’s a new one for me!

There are approximately sixty-five churches in Charleston’s downtown area and as I stood at my hotel window, so many majestic steeples and spires dotted the landscape, I almost lost count!

I was intrigued! I always seek out churches in Europe, but I was curious to see what these churches, some very historic, would offer. As I stood before the window, I decided that this would be my mission that day. I would try to see and photograph as many of these historic places of worship as I could!

The French Huguenot Church was first on my list, not only because it was in the area that I was headed, but I was captivated by pictures I had seen. Dating back to 1845, this was the third church to stand on the site and it is the only remaining independent Huguenot Church in America. Although I didn’t get the opportunity to venture inside, I was able to admire its Gothic styled windows, buttresses and decorative details.

Just down the street, I was drawn to St. Philip’s Episcopal Church, one of the most photographed landmarks in Charleston. In 1681, a small wooden building on the site of the current St. Michael’s Episcopal church, housed the congregation until a new church was built on this location in the 1700’s. This church, however, was destroyed by fire in 1835. The current church was completed in 1838 and it’s lofty steeple added a decade later. Again, neither the church nor its graveyard were open as I strolled by, but it should be noted that there are many prominent people buried in this location, including several colonial Governors, five Episcopal bishops and a former United States Vice President.

The Circular Church was organized in 1681 by English Congregationalists, Scots Presbyterians and French Huguenots who were seeking religious freedom. Located on Meeting Street, it was their first church, known as the White Meeting House, that gave the street its name. The second structure was completed in 1806 until it was damaged by the Great Charleston Fire in 1861 and then completely demolished by the Charleston earthquake of 1886. The current circular Romanesque church was completed in 1892, using material from the previous structure. Though, once again, the church was not open to visitors, the graveyard offered some interesting grave sites and tombstones, one dating back to 1695.

So, I was batting zero as far as seeing interiors of these significant sanctuaries and my average didn’t get any better as I arrived at the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist. Out front, a sign was posted stating that the interior was closed while it was receiving a fresh coat of paint! Standing outside, I had to imagine what its notable stained glass windows looked like from the inside while gazing up at the relatively new spire. The cathedral dates back to its completion in 1854, only to see its destruction by the Great Charleston Fire in seven years later. The current construction was completed in 1907, with it spire added 103 years later. Disappointed that I was unable to see the interior of the cathedral, I was invited into the basement chapel by the church’s secretary, for a small respite from the unseasonably warm temperatures.

A little further down the block, I found St. Michael’s, and finally, a church that was open! Built between 1752 and 1761, St. Michael’s Episcopal Church is one of the oldest churches in Charleston, surviving hurricanes, wars, fires and earthquakes. It has hosted some very famous guests including George Washington in 1791 and Robert E. Lee in 1861. As I wandered through the historic structure, I noted the beautiful stained glass window in the apse, a brass chandelier, carved wooden pulpit, cedar box-pews, the three-sided second story gallery and its grand organ.

Despite my disappointment in my mission with most churches being closed, this beautiful church restored my vigor!

Heading in the opposite direction, I made my way over to the Emanuel African Methodist Episcopal Church, often referred to as Mother Emanuel. A Gothic Revival style church built in 1891, it is the oldest African Methodist Episcopal (AME) church in the south. Though I was unaware at the time, I discovered later that this was the church that was the site of a mass shooting in 2015 when a man entered the church and opened fire on a Bible study group.

The Second Presbyterian Church was located a couple of blocks away on Wragg Square. Founded in 1809, the church is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Designed in the Classic Revival style, the brick building features two tiers of windows, a square tower with an octagonal belfry and a Tuscan portico.

Moving on, I spied the New Tabernacle Fourth Baptist Church down the street. After later spotting photographs of this Gothic Revival’s interior, I do wish I could have taken a look inside as it appeared to be quite lovely. This church dates back to 1875 and is the fourth church of the Baptist denomination to be founded in Charleston.

On King Street, named for King Charles II and known for its outstanding shopping, I found St. Matthew’s Lutheran Church. Built in 1872, its 297-foot steeple once made it the tallest building in South Carolina. Today, it is the tallest spire and one that I had seen from my hotel window. After only being able to see most of the churches that I had sought out only from the outside, I was thrilled to find St. Matthew’s open to visitors. The caretaker gave me a detailed history of the church, including the fire that destroyed much of the interior and the steeple, which crashed into King Street. Its original features include the carved pulpit and the stained glass windows in the apse and under the balcony.

Citadel Square Baptist, established in 1854, was the fourth Baptist church built in Charleston and is named after the church’s location across from Marion Square, the location of the Citadel at the time. It makes a beautiful site from the square with its flaxen hued exterior and lanky spire.

Redeemer Presbyterian Church is a relatively new church, started in 2005 on James Island. After deciding to relocate to the downtown area, this church assumed ownership of St. Andrew’s Lutheran Church, which dates back to 1853. Again, it was not open to the public, but I thought that it was a stately building created in the classical Greek revival style.

The last church I came upon was St. Johannes Lutheran Church. To be quite frank, it looked so much like the previous one. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, however, this church was established in 1842 by a constituency of 52 Lutherans who wanted to retain the German language in their services. In fact, German was spoken until 1910. I understand that the interior is quite beautiful, so I will have to do further investigation to find when the church might be open to visitors.

As the afternoon was coming to a close, I did a quick count…twelve churches. Wow! But wait, how many are there in the downtown area?

I read somewhere that there are over 400 places of worship of different denominations throughout the city. If this is the case, it truly is a Holy City.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The French Huguenot Church

https://www.huguenot-church.org
Address: 136 Church Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: Sunday service, 1030.
Admission: free

St. Philip’s Episcopal Church

https://www.stphilipschurchsc.org/
Address: 142 Church Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: Sunday services, 0815 and 1030
Admission: free

Circular Church

https://www.circularchurch.org/
Address: 150 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: Sunday services, 0830 and 1100
Admission: free

Cathedral of St. John the Baptist

https://www.circularchurch.org/
Address: 120 Broad Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: Mass times, Saturday 1730, Sunday 0700, 0900, 1115 and 1800.
Admission: free

St. Michaels Anglican Church

http://stmichaelschurch.net/
Address: 71 Broad Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: Sunday services, 0800, 1030 and 1800
Admission: free

Mother Emmanuel AME Church

https://motheremanuel.com/
Address: 110 Calhoun Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: Sunday service, 0930
Admission: free

Second Presbyterian Church

https://www.2ndpc.org/
Address: 342 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC 29403
Hours: Sunday service, 1030
Admission: free

New Tabernacle Fourth Baptist Church

https://www.facebook.com/New-Tabernacle-Fourth-Baptist-Church-140031422682522/
Address: 22 Elizabeth Street, Charleston, SC 29403
Hours: Sunday service times, unknown
Admission: free

St. Matthew’s Lutheran Church

https://www.smlccharleston.org/
Address: 405 King Street, Charleston, SC 29403
Hours: Sunday service, 1000
Admission: free

Citadel Square Baptist

https://www.citadelsquare.com/
Address: 328 Meeting Street, Charleston, SC
Hours: Sunday service times, unknown
Admission: free

Redeemer Presbyterian Church

https://redeemer-charleston.org/
Address: 43 Wentworth Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: Sunday service, 1000
Admission: free

St. Johannes Lutheran Church

https://stjohanneschurch.org/
Address: 48 Hasell Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: Sunday service, 1000
Admission: free

01/05/1698	0	Habit rich Maximilian (see No. 677)
31/05/1747	1	Habit given by King Louis XV
01/01/1770	2	Gala costume, City of Brussels (exact date unknown)
01/01/1790	3	Marquis (exact date unknown)
01/01/1820	4	Gala Habit (exact date unknown)
01/01/1830	6	Volunteer of the Belgian Revolution (exact date unknown) – New outfit available in 2006, see No. 781 (date précise inconnue) – Nouveau costume offert en 2006, voir n°781
01/01/1852	5	1852 gala dress (exact date unknown)
29/11/1918	7	“Jass” of the 12th regiment of Line Petite out dress – Gift of the City of Brussels with the money made by the elders of 1870 and 14/18
06/03/1919	8	19th Battalion of the French foot Hunters – Don Ducornez the Commander. 11/10/45 wore to visit the General De Gaulle
19/11/1921	9	Student of the ULB (see No. 690)
11/06/1922	10	Boy Scout Baden Powell – 10th anniversary of the police Brussels
22/04/1923	11	Alsace – Don bourgeois Colmar
11/05/1927	12	Service clubs “The Gays Fellows” – 50th anniversary of the Royal Circle and Philanthropy
16/01/1928	13	Jimbaori costume Samurai, Asahi Journal
07/01/1929	14	Gille de Binche (see No. 916)
17/02/1929	15	Huntsman Brabant Brabant Rally. Master Crews from Belgium
21/06/1930	16	1st Regiment Carabinieri 100th anniversary Grande held in use until 1914
12/10/1930	17	Minor in the region of Mons President of the Society of United Decorated Charbonnages West from Mons to Boussu. Visit to Brussels to Labor Day
09/01/1931	18	India child Parsee religion, Bombay (or 14/01/1931)
03/03/1932	19	Sioux Indian Circus Sarrasini (demonstration in Monoment fairground)
11/12/1932	20	Gunner, 2nd Artillery Regiment Fraternal old Raiment in use until 1914
01/10/1933	21	“Piot” 10th anniversary of the 9th Regiment of the Line Fraternal Petite out dress before 1914
27/05/1934	22	Conservatory System Old 35th anniversary of philanthropy
04/06/1935	23	Polynesian dancer
03/08/1935	24	Alsatian
26/09/1935	25	Great Daimyo armor shops Matsu Zakaia Remembrance visiting If Mr Thys, Special Ambassador for the emperor to announce the death of Albert I and the advent of Leopold III
05/05/1936	26	Mr. Noble Kigo Japanese architect in Osaka
26/01/1937	27	1st Regiment of Grenadiers Regiment Centennial
31/05/1937	28	Lawyer toga
05/07/1938	29	Boater, Circle 60th Anniversary Regatta
19/02/1939	30	Pierrot the circle “The Nameless” Cercle Royal choral and philanthropy founded in 1883
27/02/1939	31	Student Liège Royal Association of medical students and pharmacy (or 02.28.1939)
20/05/1941	32	Corporal Don 9th Line Regiment Lady-Ackermans Top
29/07/1945	33	Sergeant Welsh Guards – Raiment peacetime. Commemoration of September 3, 1944
04/09/1945	34	Liberation Brigade Piron – Jean Piron Brigade Commander
20/10/1945	35	Belgian paratrooper Special Air Service
21/10/1945	36	Member of the National Movement MNB Belgian. MP receives honorary brigade municipal utilities and provincial lecommandement
27/10/1945	37	US Marine Commander Don Boas Dressed October 27, “Navy Day” in the USA
15/12/1945	38	Sergeant Pilot RAF December 15: the anniversary of the Battle of Britain (8 / 08-31 / 10/40)
13/02/1946	39	Sergeant Major of the PM April 6: the anniversary of the entry into the war the Army of the USA in 14/18