And the heartbeat of New Orleans can most assuredly be heard in its centrum…Jackson Square.
When New Orleans was established as a French trading camp, it established its main boundaries along the Mississippi River, a prime location where eventually a river port was established.
Development ensued and the camp evolved into a formal colony with city blocks running perpendicular and parallel to the river. In the center of the development a one-block common area was conceded to the city, the Place d’Armes and it was designed by architect Louis Pilié .
As in many large cities, the square was a multi-use space generally gathering individuals to meet and to buy their wares at the open-air market. Military parades could also be seen marching through the space.
Today, it still operates in much the same way. Visitors from all over the world and locals flock to the square to enjoy its serenity and beauty. It is a place where you might find a couple of shop owners having a bite to eat under one of the shady oaks or two visitors from Italy, enjoying a beignet while savoring the river’s breeze. You can enjoy the occasional jazz band offering a spontaneous concert to garner a following or the impromptu parade that marches through, throwing beats or just simply dancing. Browsing the works of many of the local artisans is a personal favorite pastime of mine. Much of their art can be inspected hanging on the square’s fence or on small tables set up in the pedestrian area surrounding the square. You need to know what your future will bring next month? You can find fortune tellers, card readers in addition to various performers…drummers, tap dancer, puppeteers and singers!
As I walked through the old, iron gates, I marveled in the fact that despite some of the beautiful, slow growing, sago palms having grown significantly since my last visit, it appeared much the same as it did twenty-two years ago. What I was most surprised to see, however, was the statue of the former president of the United States, Andrew Jackson (after whom the square is named), still riding high on his trusted steed.
Last year, demonstrations were held in the city, which called for the removal of the statue which commemorates Jackson’s victory at the Battle of New Orleans in the War of 1812. Protesters were enraged of the glorification of the former President when he, in fact, owned slaves and was responsible for forcing Native Americans from their land while in office.
Walking out of the iron gates, I ambled around the square, marveling in the intricately laid flagstone put down in 1974 when the area became limited to pedestrian traffic.
Some beautiful and historic buildings surround Jackson Square, including St. Louis Cathedral, the Louisiana State Museums, the Presbytere and the Cabildo, which once acted as the governor’s mansion and the 1850 House. The oldest apartment buildings in the United States can be found here, the Lower and Upper Pontalba Apartments, which were built by the Baroness Pontalba, who lobbied for and financed a redesign of the public square in 1814. Though the upper level of the apartments are still partly residential, the ground floors are used for retail shops, museums, galleries and restaurants.
If the myriad of entertainment and shopping choices in Jackson Square is not enough for your taste, head across the street to the Washington Artillery Park overlook for not only beautiful views of The Big Muddy, the square and the Cathedral but for many shopping and dining opportunities next door at the Shops at Jax Brewery.
Transportation to and from the square is convenient and quite easy to get to from any place in the city. From the Convention Center area, you can take the Riverfront Streetcar for a unique transportation experience or from Jackson Square, enjoy the old world method of moving through the city. Grab one of the horse-drawn carriages that line up in front of Jackson Square on Decatur Street.
Whatever your reason for visiting the Crescent City, take the time to see where it all started…Jackson Square…the heart of New Orleans.
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As a young, Catholic girl in Louisiana, I attended Catholic school.
In my white shirt and pleated, dark navy skirt, I happily attended school every day, eager to learn not only the rudimentary lessons but the religious ones as well.
Though many of my teachers were non-clerical, I did have the privilege to be taught by a handful of nuns over the years. Sisters Martial, Cecilia, Fatima, Roland and David.
These nuns resided in the nearby convent and we always loved going there to help with projects and pray in the chapel. It was such a feeling of peace and a peek into a completely different way of life.
While traipsing around the French Quarter, I happened upon the Ursaline Convent and Museum. Disappointed to find that it had just closed for the day, I turned away eager to return as soon as possible. The next day, I was back, bright and early, to tour the oldest building in the Mississippi Valley that acted as home, orphanage and school for the Ursaline Nuns.
After LaSalle’s discovery of the mouth of the Mississippi, Father Nicolas Ignace de Beaubois (with the help of Governor Bienville) sought out the assistance of the Ursaline nuns to travel to France’s first settlement in the lower Mississippi Valley.
There was a great need for ministering at the poorly run hospital and also for the education of the young girls of the colony.
The nuns arrived in 1727 and the convent built for them was completed in 1734. After the city’s first Eucharistic procession, the nuns accompanied by notables and citizens, they moved into their new home which faced the river. The convent served as home and the center of operations for the hospital and school until the new convent on Chartres Street was completed in 1752.
This new convent, built slightly before the city’s grand Cathedral, was constructed in the French Colonial style. It has been described as “the finest surviving example of French Colonial public architecture in the country” by the National Parks Service.
It was this two-story white plastered brick building that I gazed upon as I entered through the old stone walls. But what set off this beautifully simple building was the green maze of a garden that lay before it. Stopping for a moment, I admired the old bell and the cast iron cross in the courtyard which was a gift of the city of Rouen, France to commemorate the arrival of the nuns.
Making my way between the hedges, I headed inside to see what I might find. Admiring the beautiful stained glass above the double doorway, I stepped into the foyer, taking in the wooden stairway, golden statue of Madonna and Child and a tall, wooden clock. This clock, I learned, was constructed from elements brought by the Ursalines in 1727. When the nuns were asked to establish a convent in Galveston, Texas in the 19th century, the community gifted it to them upon their departure. As a devastating hurricane swept through southern Texas in 1900, it took the lives of nine nuns, ninety students and thousands of residents. The clock survived, however, and was returned to New Orleans in the first decade of the 20th century.
The Ursaline Room was adjacent to the foyer and was originally the orphan’s dining room. Facing the river, these young residents could look out at the dark, fast moving Mississippi and realize that another life awaited them once they aged out of the orphanage. This room is now empty, save for a large statue and a handmade chasuble dating back to the 18th century. The original cypress ceiling beams are visible overhead.
It was here that I also learned of the Sweetheart statue. The small plastered statue was found in a convent attic in France by Sister Felicite. Despaired to see it so carelessly cast aside, she prayed for an immediate departure to the new French colony and was granted her leave almost immediately with the statue in tow. In 1788, this statue was placed by one of the nuns in the window of the convent as fire raged through New Orleans. The approaching fire was suddenly blown back by the wind and died out, keeping the convent safe. This statue has since then been credited with many astonishing miracles.
Making my way through what appeared to be a small sanctuary, I found myself inside St. Mary’s Church. This church was built in 1845 and served as the bishop’s chapel, the place of worship for the bishops and archbishops of New Orleans when they were in residence at the convent. It was the third chapel built on the site and it was interesting to learn that a bell tower that once stood at the location was destroyed by the 1914 hurricane.
The church was quiet and I made my way through admiring the beautiful altar, framed by angel and cherub statues. There were many other statues in church and the stations of the cross were distributed between the tall stained glass windows. It wasn’t until later during my tour, after talking with one of the staff that I learned that only one side of the church’s windows were authentic stained glass…the other side painted. I immediately went back to the church to seek out the window where it was discovered that it was not stained when cleaning and part of the bottom of the scene was rubbed off.
St. Mary’s Church Exterior
Exiting the chapel, I headed into the far side of the convent, where you can see some of the small cells where the nuns resided. One of these small rooms is currently being used as an administrative office and the others have been enlarged to house exhibitions. The most current being The Church In The Crescent: Three Hundred Years of Catholicism in New Orleans. This exhibit highlights the history of the city and the elegant St. Louis Cathedral. Emerging from a small wooden church to the present day construction, its story is displayed for visitors to examine in the form of photographs, portraits, letters and artifacts. Although I had already visited the Cathedral, after the watching the documentary available for visitors, there was so much explained about the interior of the building that I almost wanted to go back and take another look!
Finally, I headed outside to the space that is now being used for wedding receptions. Once a wedding has been finalized in the chapel, the bride, groom and guests can head out to the tented area at the rear of the convent for the reception.
Beyond the tented area, however, is what caught my attention…a grotto containing the Madonna and child and the life-sized statues of priests and nuns praying. Each statue’s expression was unique, but one of utter reverence. Absolutely breathtaking!
As a Catholic, I truly enjoyed my visit as it stirred up fond memories of my childhood, however, anyone interested in the rich history of the city and its architecture would truly be enthralled with this amazing museum. Pray your way there!
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I have been to some of the most famous cemeteries in the world; Pere Lachaise in France, La Recoleta in Bueno Aires, Monumentale in Milan, just to name a few. The history, architecture and craftsmanship that can be viewed in each of these places is unparalleled.
Having grown up in Louisiana, seeing graves that are raised above the ground is nothing new to me. Because the water table is so high, graves would fill with water and the buoyant casket would seek to float, eventually popping out of the ground. Because of this dilemma, it was decided, hundreds of years ago, that tombs would be built above the ground to house the departed. Some tombs were (and still are) built to accommodate one casket and others, built on a grander scale could accommodate an entire family…some so large that they resemble small homes or chapels. Visitors to the south, however, are intrigued with our burial system and some of the most beautiful and immense tombs can be found in many of the New Orleans cemeteries…a sort of city of the dead.
St. Louis Cemeteries 1 and 2, located near the French Quarter, are both on the National Register of Historic Places and feature the tombs of several historic individuals and families including Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau, Henriette Delille, Foundress of the Sisters of the Holy Family (presently awaiting canonization), Daniel Clark, financial supporter of the American Revolution and Jacques N.B. de Pouilly, architect of the St. Louis Cathedral.
Since I have seen some of the most famous cemeteries in the world, it was a given that I had to visit the most notable one in New Orleans, St. Louis Cemetery #1. Located a short walk from the city’s French Quarter, it was quite easy to locate, however, once I arrived, I was informed that I would be required to join a tour. With over 100,000 visitor’s each year, the cemetery has been subject to extreme vandalism. Hoping to preserve the sanctity of the cemetery, guests are now required to enter the premises with a licensed guide.
Paying my admittance fee, I waited patiently for the tour to start and was soon joined by Australians, Ethiopians and Italians, proving that curiosity about the oldest cemetery (built in 1789) and its inhabitants has a worldwide reach.
Eagerly following our tour guide, Steve, as he wove his way around the monumental tombs, we first learned how economical vaults were built into the cemetery walls. It was quite interesting to see the wall vaults stacked one above the other, with some now only partially visible near the ground, evidence that the below sea level city is sinking. These vaults contain the remains of many family members within the tomb. After the family member passes, the remains go untouched for a year and a day and then are pushed to the rear of the vault, making room for the next unfortunate soul.
In the center of the property. we witnessed white walls and roofs blocking our view of the entire cemetery. Here, the larger crypts also hold many family members within their massive walls.
With the cemetery being one of the oldest in the city, it is a given that many of the graves are in various states of repair…some taken care of by family, some by volunteers, some by process of having purchased Perpetual Care and many long forgotten. Crumbling and overgrown with moss and fern, the former graves’ appearance lends itself to the creepy image that many envision when thinking of old cemeteries and though you would think that many a horror movie would be shot here, filming is not allowed.
We waited patiently for our turn to stand in front of one of the most famous gravesites in St. Louis #1…the location where it is believed that Marie Laveau is entombed…next door to the former mayor, Dutch Morial, the first African American to hold the office. Laveau’s grave is marked with faded Xs, once a common practice in petitioning the deceased soul. It was believed that the Voodoo priestess would grant your wish if you marked the tomb, placed your hand over it, rubbed your foot three times against the bottom, placed some silver coins in the cup. Since this is actually desecration of a gravesite, it is evidently one of the reasons why visitors are only allowed in the cemetery with an escort.
We passed the tomb of Paul Morphy, who passed away in 1884 at the age of 47, and is considered to have been the greatest chess master of his era. Considered a chess prodigy, he was described by Bobby Fischer as “perhaps the most accurate player who ever lived”. His grave is aptly marked with chess pieces.
As we turned to head further into the cemetery, we could all see the tip of what appeared to be a pyramid. In much newer condition that most of the other tombs, we were informed that it belongs to the actor Nicolas Cage. Though he now resides in Las Vegas, the performer once lived in New Orleans, at 1140 Royal Street (believe it or not!) in the LaLaurie Mansion! His pyramid presently stands dignified but empty, awaiting his demise.
How is it that someone like Nicholas Cage gets to be buried in St. Louis #1? Well, if you have $40,000, you can too. The steep price will buy you a plot next to some of New Orleans’ most notorious residents.
Following our guide, we continued on to the towering Italian Mutual Benevolent Society’s marble tomb, which was designed by architect Pietro Gualdi in 1857. Designed in the Baroque style, it includes three elegantly carved marble statues of female figures; one holding a cross crowning the top, one in a niche above the engraving “Italia” and another out of view in a niche on the left representing “Charity”. It contains 24 vaults which were for the temporary use of the society’s members whose bones would remain in the tomb for about a year and then removed and placed in a receptacle in the tomb’s basement. Nearby, are the Portuguese Burial Society and the New Orleans Musicians Tombs which operate on the same premise at the Italian Benevolent Society, giving those of the association a place to be buried.
At the rear of the cemetery, we were directed to the Protestant section, which was assigned to the Christ Church (Episcopal) for the burial of non-Catholics. All that remains of this area, however, is the area between the wall vaults and some brick walls. Between 1822-1838, the burials from the Protestant section, which extended beyond the back wall, were transferred to the Girod Street Cemetery to make way for neighborhood development. What I found interesting, however, was that non-Catholic burials have always been allowed in any part of the cemetery and some Catholics were actually buried in the Protestant section.
Nearby, we found the grave of Étienne de Boré, a local plantation owner and an important person to the sugar cane industry famous for producing the first granulated sugar in Louisiana. Making the sugar cane crop profitable for local farmers, the industry still continues strong today with more than 400,000 acres of land in 22 Louisiana parishes producing approximately 13 million tons yearly and employing about 17,000 employees.
It was quite interesting and yet peaceful to walk among the decrepit graves in the cold, winter morning and I thought it a pity that others’ desecration of the cemetery had made it hard for those of us who might like to take their time wandering among the lesser know grave sites instead of being ushered along by our guide in his attempt to keep the tour at the allotted forty-five minute limit.
The cemetery has been preserved as best as it can be and with the new fees imposed by the Archdiocese, it is the hope that the cemetery will be available for all to enjoy for hundreds of years to come. Security has been added and through the hard work of the caretakers, St. Louis Cemetery #1 will remain open to the public. One caretaker devoted most of his life to the care and preservation of this historic place, Alexander “Buddy” Anspecker. Working in the location for 41 years, he could always be counted on for his dedication and descriptive tours of the historic tombs.
Finally, however, I learned something very interesting…something that brought my adventures full circle.
The day before I had sought out the LaLaurie Mansion on Royal Street. Earlier in the tour, I learned that actor Nicolas Cage had resided in the LaLaurie Mansion. On this day, however, I learned that though it was thought that Madame Marie Delphine LaLaurie had died in France, in a boar-hunting accident, a caretaker of the cemetery, Eugene Backes (many years before “Buddy”), discovered an old cracked, copper plate in Alley 4 of the cemetery. The inscription read, “Madame Lalaurie, née Marie Delphine Maccarthy, décédée à Paris, le 7 Décembre, 1842, à l’âge de 6–.” declaring that perhaps, Madame LaLaurie had returned from France to rest among the distinguished departed residents of St. Louis #1.
Though we were not made privy to the location of this copper plate, it gives rise to the notion that New Orleans’ history is quite complex and interwoven.
The walk to St. Louis Cemetery #1 is a short one and although the price a bit steep for the tours offered, keep in mind that the money is helping to preserve this treasure. Though you would never catch me in a cemetery at night, especially within a city rich in the Voodoo culture and alive with many superstitions, I was pleasantly surprised at the vast array of prominence laid to rest here. Definitely worth the visit in light of its history!
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Yes, one year, for Halloween, I dressed as a Voodoo Priestess, complete with voodoo dolls attached to my cloak, each representing one of the friends invited to my party.
Naturally, those who were late or didn’t show, got a pin through the head or heart!
Of course, how I dressed was my own idea of what a Voodoo priestess should look and I had no idea of how to make an authentic voodoo doll. However, growing up in Louisiana, we had always heard of the culture and beliefs of voodoo and how someone had had the gris gris (bad luck) put upon them. Now, gris-gris is actually a talisman or amulet that someone wears to protect themselves from evil and bad luck, but as children, we sometimes misconstrued the stories we heard from our grandparents as they told them, sometimes in their Cajun French language!
While staying in the French Quarter with my husband, I decided to seek out all of the touristy things that I had never taken the time to do when I lived just outside the city many years ago. The New Orleans Historic Voodoo Museum was at the top of my list and I looked forward to learning about the Louisiana branch of Voodoo brought to the city back in the 1700s through the African slave trade.
In 1972, local artist, Charles Massicot Gandolfo, started the museum, as it was his wish to share his passion for all things Voodoo. Not flashy or large by any scale, it is labeled by a modest sign hanging from the upper balcony on Dumaine Street. As I walked in, I was surprised to find it even smaller than I had anticipated and filled with artifacts and items offered for sale, including authentic voodoo dolls, chicken feet, snake skins, Voodoo Love Potions, books and candles. Yikes! The only chicken feet I would ever take home would be from the grocery store’s meat section!
Paying the attendant my entry fee, I moved toward the hallway to begin my self-guided tour. The hallway was extremely narrow and visitors turned sideways to allow each other access to the space. There were many pictures in the hallway depicting Voodoo priestesses, including the famed Marie Laveau, Melvina Latour and Sanité Dédé, who used to practice her rituals in her home’s courtyard down the street. Marie Laveau’s kneeling bench, which was used in her altar room in her home on St. Ann Street, sits underneath her picture.
The museum is packed with information and examples of voodoo history and practices, but when I say packed…I really mean packed. The two small rooms in the rear are filled with masks, statues, artifacts and altars heavily laden with items placed upon it as petitions to the Voodoo spirits for intercession and favors…cigarettes, money, coins, pictures, keys, small statues and toys, Mardi Gras beads, eye drops (yes, someone must have cried quite a bit begging for a favor). You name it, the rooms were stuffed with so many items, it really was quite overwhelming!
As a collector of African masks, I found the ones present in the museum quite interesting to analyze as many of these were extremely old…not the kind I would ever bring into my own home. Call me superstitious, but Voodoo has its roots in African culture and I have always believed that these items sometimes carry spirits within them.
As well as instructions on how to make voodoo dolls, there were many skulls and bones throughout the museum, even a complete skeleton donning a top hat as well as well as a preserved alligator head and alligator claw…I could envision that many visitors might feel quite uncomfortable if the idea of death is not compelling to them. Hopefully, however, they understand what kind of museum it is before visiting.
My visit was short and slightly enlightening. Not a fan of small spaces, I was more than ready to leave and head to the burial place of Marie Laveau, St. Louis Cemetery Number One.
As I sat for a moment reading the handout that was given to me to explain the museums inclusions, I began speaking with the lady at the front desk. In addition to visiting the museum, I learned that you can also book psychic readings and Prognosticating (fortune telling), arts that are deeply ingrained within the fabric of Voodoo culture. Having already seen many people offering psychic readings throughout the French Quarter, I think that if I was interested in finding information about my future, this would be the place to come…a little more authentic than the street corner.
But, since a reading was not in my future, it was time to head on to bigger and better things. And New Orleans has many!
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Admission: $7.00 General Admission, $5.50 Seniors, Military, College Students, $4.50 High School Students, $3.50 Under Age 12, Free Entrance to the Gift Shop
It is no big secret that many of the city of New Orleans’ most famous landmarks are shrouded in stories of murder, ghostly appearances and unexplained happenings.
In the 1700s, pirates, outcasts and renegades roamed the streets of the French Quarter and lawlessness prevailed. But, even among the city’s elite, morbid stories can be found in the history books.
Fans of the show, American Horror Story, will recognize the tale of Marie Delphine LaLaurie, the wealthy homeowner who was rumored to have tortured and killed her slaves.
Having seen the third season of the popular television series, I was interested in finding Madame LaLaurie’s former home. Deciding not to book one of the many ghost tours that frequent the location, I set out on my own to find the site which is considered to be one of the most haunted in the city.
Located a few blocks from the Voodoo Museum, the dark grey, stately home looks much like the rest of the architectural gems that grace the streets of the city. But, how many others garner the interest that this one does? Just walk past the two story home at any time of the day and you will understand. Many people congregate in front of the home at all hours, snapping pictures of the mansion on the corner of Royal and Governor Nicholls Streets.
But why?
They could be fans of American Horror Story (although most of the scenes were shot at the Hermann-Grima House on St. Louis Street). It could be that they are hoping to experience some sort of paranormal connection to the spirits that supposedly roam the premises. Or…it could be that as they snap away on the cell phones, they are hoping to capture one of the entities that haunt its halls peeking out its windows at the curiosity seekers.
The mansion’s owner, Marie Delphine LaLaurie, belonged to a wealthy Irish family that managed an extensive real estate portfolio in the Crescent City. To aid in their endeavors, they owned a great many slaves.
Marie Delphine’s first marriage was to Don Ramon de Lopez y Angullo, a high ranking Spanish officer until his death, under mysterious circumstances, in 1884. Marrying Jean Blanque, four years later, they purchased a home at 409 Royal Street and filled it with four daughters (in addition to Marie’s first born child with Angullo). Unfortunately Blanque passed away eight years later, leading to Marie Delphine’s third and final marriage, in 1825, to Leonard Louis Nicolas LaLaurie. It was this marriage that was the beginning of a chain of events that have led to the mansion’s prevailing reputation.
In 1831, Marie Delphine and LaLaurie purchased a new home just down the street where they would reside with two of her children. The marriage was not a happy one and in 1834, LaLaurie moved out of the home.
Marie Delphine was extremely distraught at the departure of her husband and rumors spread that she became a cruel mistress who harmed her slaves and gave no thought to their well-being.
After a young female slave named Leia, fell to her death in the courtyard, Marie Delphine’s remaining slaves were set free following an investigation of the incident. Marie Delphine set about purchasing her slaves back and nothing more was heard for quite some time, from 1140 Royal Street, as she settled into her life as a single woman.
A few years later, when fire destroyed part of the house, it was discovered that Marie Delphine had kept seven slaves chained in the attic…starved and tortured.
As news of the event reached the citizens of the city, they attacked the residence, enraged, calling Marie Delphine a “monster” and a “demon”. Stories began to surface about the condition that some of the slaves were found in…bones broken numerous times and set in unnatural positions, one slave said to have had a hole drilled in their head with a wooden spoon sticking out, another found with their skin peeled back so that muscle and tissue were exposed and yet another said to have had their intestines removed from their body and wrapped around their waist. Others were covered with honey and black ants and many others found dead.
When the home was sold years later, workmen claimed to have found numerous human skeletons beneath the house placed in abnormal positions, barely buried in the soil and many with holes in their skulls. The authorities conducted an investigation and concluded that these skeletons were indeed bodies of some of the former slaves that were thought to be killed in the LaLaurie Mansion.
Many people have debunked the stories that have followed Madame LaLaurie saying that they were the work of unscrupulous news agencies and former neighbors who may have had grievances with her. It is not to say that she may have not been the nicest mistress, as she was once visited by a lawyer, sent by the city, to warn her about the mistreatment of her slaves.
After her departure, however former residence has produced many reports of paranormal activity…moaning coming from a room where the slaves were kept, footsteps and negative energy felt by those in or near the house. There were also reports that a demon terrorized many who lived in the building in the following years, once resulting in the death of one of the residents. When the mansion operated as a girls’ school in the mid-to late nineteenth century, many of the young girls related to their teachers that they had been assaulted, their forearms scratched and bruised. They always described their attacker as “that woman”.
Could the cruel attacker, be the spirit of Madame LaLaurie, the demon or some other vicious entity? Or maybe the slaves that were tortured here returned to repay the malice they received.
Today, nearly two centuries after the horrific fire, the mansion is still viewed as a place of horror. Though many owners have bought and sold the home, no one has remained in the mansion for longer than five years, as it has been viewed as a place that has been cursed, bringing bad luck and devastation to those who reside here.
As I stood in front of this well-kept, historic mansion, I didn’t feel anything strange or see anything that appeared to be supernatural…much to my disappointment, as I believe there is another realm that reaches its creepy fingers out to us in locations that are more susceptible. If you believe in the paranormal, however, seek out this historic residence in the city’s French Quarter. A ghost tour may be more to your liking with their intimate knowledge of this location and many others, however if you venture here on your own, you may be a bit disappointed as there is not much more to see than a grand residence. If you are one of the (lucky?) ones, however, you may get to experience some of the strange occurrences that others have felt outside of the building…pulling on bags and arms, lights illuminating and extinguishing or visions in the windows.
Visit if you dare…
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LaLaurie Mansion
Address: 1140 Royal Street
Hours: Can be viewed from the street, 24 hours, daily
Admission: Private residence, no admittance allowed.
Planning to take a cruise and wanting to make a change?
If you are moving on from your current cruise line and trying to decide on a new one…here is some (hopefully) helpful information on the Norwegian Pearl.
After our disastrous experience with Carnival during Christmastime last year, my kids had sworn off Carnival Cruise Lines for good. The only cruise line they had ever had experience with, our previous trip had given them no cause for a desire to travel with them again this year. Late into port and not docking in St. Kitts had soured their expectations.
After checking out different cruise lines for our Christmas vacation, and their many amenities and itineraries, we finally decided on the Norwegian Pearl.
Our first adventure with Norwegian, we were excited to see the differences between this cruise line and Carnival and Royal Caribbean.
From the very beginning, there were some marked contrasts.
Check In Our first personal interaction with Norwegian was at the cruise terminal. We found the check-in lines to be quite lengthy (stretching out of the building and around the corner) and had to sit in the terminal for quite a bit of time before being allowed to board. This had never happened with our past experiences, but to be fair, we were first-time cruisers…so we had no status. Back of the line anyone?
Accommodations With our past cruises, we had always booked the more affordable rooms…interior cabins and occasionally, a room with a porthole or picture window. This time, we decided that a bit of splurging was in order. Though we still booked the interior room for our children, my husband and I opted to spoil ourselves with a Mini-Suite and balcony. Our room was spacious with a sitting area that afforded us the capacity to enjoy time together as a family away from the crowds. As we sailed away from Tampa, instead of enjoying the festivities on the main deck with people we did not know, we played our own music and enjoyed drinks in our stateroom, hanging on the balcony and watching the Tampa scenery go by in the waning daylight. Without the feeling of claustrophobia that I sometimes felt in the interior rooms, I have to admit, I don’t know if I can ever go back to not having a balcony!
Food There were a few restaurants that were available for dining by reservation and an additional charge; Le Bistro (French, $20 per person), Cagney’s Steakhouse (Seafood, Steakhouse, $30 per person), La Cucina (Italian, $15 per person), Teppanyaki (Japanese Hibachi, $25 per person), Sushi Bar (Asian, a la carte pricing), however, we opted to take our dinners at the main restaurants, Summer Palace, Indigo and Lotus Garden. All were very good and the service impeccable. Our breakfasts and lunches were usually taken at the Garden Cafe and the Great Outdoors in the rear of the ship. Occasional lunches, snacks and late nights were enjoyed at O’Sheehan’s Irish Pub…the fish and chips were amazing!
Drink When we booked our cruise, Norwegian was offering a few perks that we could take advantage of with our booking. The Ultimate Beverage Package was included for both my husband and oldest son which included wine, beer, liquor and cocktails. We also had a $100 on-board credit for one of our rooms which we were able to utilize for a Soda Package for my youngest son. There were many bars throughout the ship and we found that with the Ultimate Beverage Package, we were not cut off at fifteen drinks like on Carnival. Our wonderful ship steward also graciously gifted us with a few bottles of champagne in our stateroom.
Entertainment Award winning entertainment was offered nightly in the Stardust Theater and shows featuring passengers as contestants were offered in the Spinnaker Lounge. The Not So Newlywed Game and Dance Clash were two of the game shows where passengers both competed with each other giving the audience comical diversions. Bliss Ultra Lounge, a trendy nightclub-like hotspot offered live performances, karaoke and even bowling lanes while H2Glow and White Hot parties on the pool deck gave passengers the ability to dance the night away under the stars. One of our favorite places to hang out, however, was the Piano Bar on Deck 6. Requests were taken by the performer and it was quite the experience when the entire bar joined in on the sing-alongs.
Other forms of entertainment along the upper decks consisted of the rock climbing wall, basketball and soccer court, jogging track, shuffleboard, chess, golf, swimming pools and hot tubs.
First-run, barely released movies could be found in the cabins on one of the TV’s movie channels or on the giant LED screen in the atrium and a game room and library were available.
My favorite thing on this ship, however, was something I had never seen on another…and maybe it was just because I didn’t know to search for it. My son was wandering around and came upon a bridge viewing room. A large picture window allowed passengers to look onto the bridge and observe the crew performing the operations necessary to sail the giant vessel. The room also contained some memorabilia and a model of the Pearl.
Fitness Center/Spa Though I didn’t use the gym, I did take a peek inside. Offering the standard weight machines, treadmills, stationary bicycles and ellipticals, it was lot smaller than I anticipated and my son confirmed that it was often crowded. While exploring one day, we ventured into the Mandara Spa and was offered a tour of the facilities. Though not my kind of thing, the most intriguing aspect was the Thermal Suite based on the concept of Turkish Baths and included heated ceramic lounge chairs, a Thalasso Therapy Pool, hot tubs, steam room, sauna, and tropical rain showers.
Sun Decks Last year, our biggest complaint with Carnival was that passengers were allowed to reserve and hold lounge chairs. There were never enough chairs available for passengers although many were chained up and pushed to the side. Finding two seats together was hard, finding five for the entire family…impossible. We found Norwegian to be the complete opposite…there was plenty of deck space and plenty of chairs at all times. I have to admit though, my favorite place to take in the sunshine was on my balcony.
Communication Like Carnival, Norwegian provides an app which guests can download from App Store or Google Play. This app allows passengers to pre-book onboard activities, dining reservations, shore excursions, entertainment as well as view vacation itineraries. The communications feature allows passengers to chat and message each other while onboard, view their account and see what is happening on the ship at all times. A charge of $9.95 per person is charged for use of the communications feature, however, it is well worth the price in order to stay in touch with each other…quite handy since our two rooms were not near each other.
Ports of Call The itinerary for this cruise was Tampa (departure), At Sea, Harvest Caye, Belize, Costa Maya, Mexico, Roatan, Honduras, Grand Cayman, At Sea, Tampa (arrival). We enjoyed our Christmas Day in Harvest Caye relaxing in the sun on our beach chairs. The next day, the biggest surprise was in store for us. Having never checked the map for the location of Costa Maya, I was pleasantly enlightened that it was closer to Belize’s border than to Playa del Carmen, reminding me of my time in Ambergris Caye. So much like the old Mexico that I remembered, we enjoyed both relaxing at the beach in the town of Mahahual and checking out the beautiful, modern port, filled with many activities, shopping and restaurants. Our third port was the most anticipated since we had been wanting to go to Roatan for some time. Sadly, since we were unable to disembark as early as anticipated due to the tendering process, our time in Roatan was limited. West Bay Beach, however, was unbelievable and definitely awakened our curiosity for more of the small island. Our last port, Grand Cayman, was fabulous. A place that we are extremely familiar with, we were excited to not have to worry about trying to figure out what we would do. But, for anyone else, Cayman is full of amazing adventures!
Harvest Caye, BelizeCosta Maya and Mahahual, MexicoRoatan, HondurasGrand Cayman, British Virgin Islands
Punctuality Overall, Norwegian stayed on schedule. Our only glitch during the cruise was the tendering process in Roatan. Our arrival in Tampa was another story. Last year, we thought our arrival into Port Canaveral was extremely belated (four hours)…that was until this time around. A heavy fog descended upon the port of Tampa on Saturday, preventing ships from setting sail…a bummer for those departing that day. Our ship was instructed to speed up and attempt to sail into port on Saturday night instead of Sunday morning. Hoping to make it in during an anticipated clear window, we were halted when the fog did not lift as expected. The Norwegian Pearl and three other ships remained off of the coast until the heavy fog dissipated, allowing us all to sail the remaining distance back to Tampa…twelve hours late. Though phone lines were opened for guests to make changes to their travel arrangements and to contact family, it was nearly impossible to get an outside line. Since our travel arrangements could only be done through a secured computer terminal, standing in line for hours to use one of only seven computers available was not an option. After explaining our circumstances to Guest Services, we were told that wifi access would be complimentary using my personal device. Upon our departure, however, we found that we had been charged $80 for an hour’s usage. After our return, I contacted Norwegian and the charge was reversed.
Upon our return and a some time had passed, I looked back on our first experience with Norwegian.
Although there were some negative experiences, I do have to say that we enjoyed our foray with a different cruise line. It was nice to discover a new ship layout and a new overall product.
Was it worth the change? Absolutely.
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When you’ve been somewhere so many times, it starts to feel like home.
This is how we feel about Grand Cayman. So many visits over the years (sometimes 2-3 per year) had us feeling like we had set down roots on the island.
As our boys grew older, however, they wanted to see other parts of the world and sadly, we had not been to Grand Cayman in a few years.
We were truly missing it.
When we booked our cruise, we were excited to spot Cayman on our itinerary. There was nothing to plan. No excursions to book. We knew to rent a car and go to one of our favorite spots on the island.
Seven Mile Beach.
Not the public beach, mind you…where all the cruise ship passengers are taken, but the beach in front of two of the condominium units that we consistently rented over the years. A little further down the beach from the public area, there is not much foot traffic and the sand and water are beautiful.
There is beach access, from the road, every few hundred yards in this area and parking along West Bay Road is acceptable. Though we knew we would not be able to utilize any of the condos’ chairs or facilities, we planned to make camp under one of the mangrove trees and spend our time hanging in the water.
Walking out of the cruise port (where, unlike Roatan, they have amazing tender service provided by the island, I might add), past cruise hotspot Margaritaville and Fort George, we headed west and found Avis Car Rental. Grabbing a car for the day, our next order of business was to find a spot to buy patties. Jamaican patties are our favorite food and one we had to take with us on our beach excursion.
Driving down the newly built roadways linking Georgetown and the West End. It was interesting to see the development that had occurred over the years. Not the Cayman we remember from 25 years ago and certainly not the Cayman we remember from even 6 years ago. For goodness sake’s, an underpass now stretches across West Bay Road, part of a hotel development site.
Finally, parking our car along the roadway, we gathered up our towels, snorkeling gear and lunch and headed up the path to the beach.
Winter’s waters are a little rougher than what you find in the summer, so just standing in the water proved to be a bit challenging with the larger than normal waves rolling in. We managed, but I found hanging on the beach and reading a book to be a bit more relaxing.
Before long, it was just as it was in Harvest Caye, Costa Maya and Roatan…our time on the beach seemed to fly by making us nervous about getting back to our ship.
If you are a cruise ship passenger looking to enjoy your time on your own in Grand Cayman, do as we did and book a rental car. There are so many things to do on the island, including visiting the town of HELL (with it’s own post office that will postmark your postcards with the name), the Grand Cayman Turtle Farm, Rum Point and countless other beaches in between Seven Mile Beach, Georgetown, the East End and Rum Point.
If driving on the left is not your thing, there are countless tours that can be booked with cruise companies and on your own. A most popular one is Stingray City, an area in the North Sound of Grand Cayman, where southern stingrays are found in abundance. Paying passengers are taken here and urged to don masks and snorkels, though the water is rarely above shoulder level on one of the sandbars. Another sandbar is deeper and more suited for those wishing to dive the site. At both of these locations, visitors can pet and interact with the stingrays which come to feed in the chummed waters.
Whatever you go to Cayman for…wildlife interaction, adventure, or beach relaxation or even Jamaican Patties…you will not be disappointed. There is a reason it’s one of our favorite places in the world!
And yes, it was good to feel like we were home…even just for a few hours!
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You’ve probably heard the term, “Tender Mercies” in some sort of capacity or another.
According to the LDS church, tender mercies is defined as very personal and individualized blessings, strength, protection, assurances, guidance, loving-kindnesses, consolation, support and spiritual gift which is received from Jesus Christ.
I think Norwegian cruise line should define it as “passengers at the mercy of their cruise line’s abhorrent tender operation”…we were definitely not feeling guidance, assurances, consolation or support.
Roatan, Honduras has been a destination on my “go to” list for some time. When we discovered it was part of our Christmas cruise itinerary, we were elated and planned to see as much of it as we could.
Looking through our destination handout the night before docking, I discovered that tender tickets were required for disembarkation. Never having had this experience, I inquired with Guest Services as to the appropriate location and then informed my husband that he would be in line before the ticket handout start time to ensure our early departure.
We were scheduled to dock around 7:30 am and we watched the coastline of Roatan come into view. With my husband having secured Group 2 tickets, we were excited that our day would begin early.
Roatan’s cruise port in Coxen Hole can normally handle two ships at their dock, with Carnival utilizing their own port, Mahogany Bay further up the coast. Apparently, part of the Coxen Hole dock was damaged a couple of months ago and one of Royal Caribbean’s larger ships needed the still-usable portion. So, where did that leave us? With no Honduran-run tender operation available, the Pearl’s lifeboats would have to suffice.
Each able to hold approximately 50-75 passengers and with a total of 2,394 passengers on board the Pearl…well, you do the math.
Three lifeboats were being utilized and those passenger with status and shore excursions were allowed to leave first. So, our Group 2 ticket wasn’t as great as I thought. That, in combination with rougher than normal ocean conditions, slowed down (and even stopped temporarily) the tendering tremendously. By 9:20, Group 1 was finally being called. It wasn’t until 10:10 that we were allowed to leave the ship, a very slow process.
Walking up the pier to the Town Center, we fought the crowds and the urge to take it all in. Having to be back for the last tender at 3:00 pm meant having to rush to do anything.
Making our way to the taxi staging area, we quickly made a deal with a driver to bring us out to West Bay, an area I knew had a nice beach.
Driving along the windy, narrow roads, our driver, Tino, gave us a brief history of the area. Noting the heavy traffic due to three ships being in port, we decided that we had to give ourselves ample time to get back to the boat at the appropriate time.
After about a 15 minute drive, we were pulling onto a small, narrow road. Passing a few rental cottages, we were not sure exactly where Tino was taking us. West Bay? Parking his van, he helped us out and guided us into a restaurant where we paid the owner $10 per person for chairs, umbrellas and the use of the facilities (showers and toilets).
Following the sound of waves and music, we stepped out of the restaurant onto the sand and looked around in wonder. A pristine arc of sand lined the water’s edge. Clear, turquoise water reflected the bright sunshine and I recognized some of the condominiums that I had researched previously when we had thought we might travel there.
With only three hours to enjoy these beautiful surroundings, my husband and I first headed up the beach. Stopping into one of the dive centers, we inquired about the accommodations and dive packages offered. Inspecting each of the resorts we passed, we made mental notes of where we might like to stay upon our return on a future vacation. We then headed down the beach, finding it more crowded than where we had made camp for the day. It was evident that this was a place where cruise ship passengers head for a day in the sun.
Heading back, we ordered a few drinks and stood in the water, enjoying the soft sand beneath our feet and the sun beating down on our heads, knowing it was a crisp 49 degrees back home.
Three hours goes by pretty fast when you are having fun.
Packing up our belongings, we headed inside to find Tino and begin the congested drive back to our ship.
Glad that we had given ourselves ample time, we sat in traffic just outside the port and then found the line for the tenders to be extremely lengthy. It was quite frustrating to watch the Royal Caribbean passengers sashay on board, whenever they felt like it. At least we had entertainment!
Finally on board and happily ensconced the pub eating fish and chips, we looked out of the picture windows at the shores of Roatan.
Sad that our day had started out slowly, we were happy to find that because of my diligence in getting in line for tender tickets early, we were the lucky ones to have had more time onshore. A great deal of passengers had not been aware that tender tickets were required (read your daily handouts!) and many more missed privately booked excursions (non-refundable). Some passengers in higher numbered groups were unable to get off of the boat until 2:00 pm, giving them only an hour to wander around the port!
So, what did we learn from our time in Roatan?
Read everything that the ship gives you…thankfully, I knew about the tender tickets.
Research your ports thoroughly…with a quick decision to make, I knew where to ask the driver to take us.
Book outside excursions cautiously…cruise ships take no responsibility for being unable to dock and will not refund you for missing a pre-paid excursion. They will, however, refund you for the cancellation of excursions booked through the ship.
Roatan, has a ton of things to offer besides beautiful beaches…we will be back to discover them all!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
