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Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop
May Baily’s Place
Hotel Provincial
The Monteleone Hotel
The LaLaurie Mansion
It is no big secret that many of the city of New Orleans’ most famous landmarks are shrouded in stories of murder, ghostly appearances and unexplained happenings.
In the 1700s, pirates, outcasts and renegades roamed the streets of the French Quarter and lawlessness prevailed. But, even among the city’s elite, morbid stories can be found in the history books.
Fans of the show, American Horror Story, will recognize the tale of Marie Delphine LaLaurie, the wealthy homeowner who was rumored to have tortured and killed her slaves.
Having seen the third season of the popular television series, I was interested in finding Madame LaLaurie’s former home. Deciding not to book one of the many ghost tours that frequent the location, I set out on my own to find the site which is considered to be one of the most haunted in the city.
Located a few blocks from the Voodoo Museum, the dark grey, stately home looks much like the rest of the architectural gems that grace the streets of the city. But, how many others garner the interest that this one does? Just walk past the two story home at any time of the day and you will understand. Many people congregate in front of the home at all hours, snapping pictures of the mansion on the corner of Royal and Governor Nicholls Streets.
But why?
They could be fans of American Horror Story (although most of the scenes were shot at the Hermann-Grima House on St. Louis Street). It could be that they are hoping to experience some sort of paranormal connection to the spirits that supposedly roam the premises. Or…it could be that as they snap away on the cell phones, they are hoping to capture one of the entities that haunt its halls peeking out its windows at the curiosity seekers.
The mansion’s owner, Marie Delphine LaLaurie, belonged to a wealthy Irish family that managed an extensive real estate portfolio in the Crescent City. To aid in their endeavors, they owned a great many slaves.
Marie Delphine’s first marriage was to Don Ramon de Lopez y Angullo, a high ranking Spanish officer until his death, under mysterious circumstances, in 1884. Marrying Jean Blanque, four years later, they purchased a home at 409 Royal Street and filled it with four daughters (in addition to Marie’s first born child with Angullo). Unfortunately Blanque passed away eight years later, leading to Marie Delphine’s third and final marriage, in 1825, to Leonard Louis Nicolas LaLaurie. It was this marriage that was the beginning of a chain of events that have led to the mansion’s prevailing reputation.
In 1831, Marie Delphine and LaLaurie purchased a new home just down the street where they would reside with two of her children. The marriage was not a happy one and in 1834, LaLaurie moved out of the home.
Marie Delphine was extremely distraught at the departure of her husband and rumors spread that she became a cruel mistress who harmed her slaves and gave no thought to their well-being.
After a young female slave named Leia, fell to her death in the courtyard, Marie Delphine’s remaining slaves were set free following an investigation of the incident. Marie Delphine set about purchasing her slaves back and nothing more was heard for quite some time, from 1140 Royal Street, as she settled into her life as a single woman.
A few years later, when fire destroyed part of the house, it was discovered that Marie Delphine had kept seven slaves chained in the attic…starved and tortured.
As news of the event reached the citizens of the city, they attacked the residence, enraged, calling Marie Delphine a “monster” and a “demon”. Stories began to surface about the condition that some of the slaves were found in…bones broken numerous times and set in unnatural positions, one slave said to have had a hole drilled in their head with a wooden spoon sticking out, another found with their skin peeled back so that muscle and tissue were exposed and yet another said to have had their intestines removed from their body and wrapped around their waist. Others were covered with honey and black ants and many others found dead.
When the home was sold years later, workmen claimed to have found numerous human skeletons beneath the house placed in abnormal positions, barely buried in the soil and many with holes in their skulls. The authorities conducted an investigation and concluded that these skeletons were indeed bodies of some of the former slaves that were thought to be killed in the LaLaurie Mansion.
Many people have debunked the stories that have followed Madame LaLaurie saying that they were the work of unscrupulous news agencies and former neighbors who may have had grievances with her. It is not to say that she may have not been the nicest mistress, as she was once visited by a lawyer, sent by the city, to warn her about the mistreatment of her slaves.
After her departure, however former residence has produced many reports of paranormal activity…moaning coming from a room where the slaves were kept, footsteps and negative energy felt by those in or near the house. There were also reports that a demon terrorized many who lived in the building in the following years, once resulting in the death of one of the residents. When the mansion operated as a girls’ school in the mid-to late nineteenth century, many of the young girls related to their teachers that they had been assaulted, their forearms scratched and bruised. They always described their attacker as “that woman”.
Could the cruel attacker, be the spirit of Madame LaLaurie, the demon or some other vicious entity? Or maybe the slaves that were tortured here returned to repay the malice they received.
Today, nearly two centuries after the horrific fire, the mansion is still viewed as a place of horror. Though many owners have bought and sold the home, no one has remained in the mansion for longer than five years, as it has been viewed as a place that has been cursed, bringing bad luck and devastation to those who reside here.
As I stood in front of this well-kept, historic mansion, I didn’t feel anything strange or see anything that appeared to be supernatural…much to my disappointment, as I believe there is another realm that reaches its creepy fingers out to us in locations that are more susceptible. If you believe in the paranormal, however, seek out this historic residence in the city’s French Quarter. A ghost tour may be more to your liking with their intimate knowledge of this location and many others, however if you venture here on your own, you may be a bit disappointed as there is not much more to see than a grand residence. If you are one of the (lucky?) ones, however, you may get to experience some of the strange occurrences that others have felt outside of the building…pulling on bags and arms, lights illuminating and extinguishing or visions in the windows.
Visit if you dare…
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LaLaurie Mansion
- Address: 1140 Royal Street
- Hours: Can be viewed from the street, 24 hours, daily
- Admission: Private residence, no admittance allowed.
The sun rose higher as we glided down river, finally pulling our boats onto the shore for our first rest and excursion. Arizona Hot Springs. Walking past boulders, gushing streams and high bluffs, we made our way inland through the slot canyon, noticing the temperature around us rising. Stepping into the water, it was noticeably warmer. Further upstream, the temperatures rose even higher. Climbing a twenty foot ladder to an overhead cliff, the water temperature was extremely hot, pouring forth from a geothermal spring. Taking a seat, we soaked for a few minutes, our muscles enjoying the torridity.
The Assembly Hall, located on the southwest corner, seats approximately 2,000 people and sometimes acts as an overflow area for the church’s twice-a-year general conferences. Free music concerts are held here and as I admired the impressive organ used for these recitals, a young lady struck up a conversation with me. Hailing from France, I found out that she is one of the full-time sister missionaries from around the globe, who serve on Temple Square. Giving me some history of the Assembly Hall, she told me about the concerts held in the building, the impressive organ and suggested that my next stop be the Tabernacle. She informed me that if I was impressed by the organ in the Assembly Hall, I would probably be blown away by what I would find in the Tabernacle.
Once my walk-around was complete, I made my way across the well-manicured lawn to the Tabernacle to see this incredible organ. Although I had heard about the Mormon Tabernacle Choir, my only knowledge of them was that they are associated with the LDS Church. Speaking with another sister missionary, I learned that the choir, founded in 1847, consists of 360 members and has performed in the Tabernacle for over a hundred years. Members must be part of the church, between the ages of 25 and 55 and live within 100 miles of Temple Square. And the organ? Wow, what can I say? Containing 11,623 pipes, it is one of the largest organs in the world. It was originally built in 1867 and was rebuilt and enlarged several times with the current version having been completed in 1948. The Mormon Tabernacle Choir performs with the accompaniment of the organ for daily recitals, which are open to the public. Another organ, consisting of 7,708 pipes is housed across the street in the Conference Center and is used for performances during the church’s semiannual general conferences.
Continuing on, my next stop was at the North Visitors Center. Most important to note in this building is the beautiful replica of the Christus, a statue of Jesus by Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, located on the upper floor. The ramped walkway’s walls and the domed ceiling above the statue are painted with clouds, stars, planets and other heavenly bodies. Make sure not to miss the beautiful paintings depicting biblical stories on the upper floor and on the lower, dioramas of some biblical scenes. There is also an area dedicated to the good works of the LDS Church.
The Church History Museum across the street from the North Visitor’s Center is worth spending some time in and houses collections of Latter-day Saint art and artifacts. There are both permanent exhibits and temporary ones offered throughout the year. I enjoyed the film which showed how Joseph Smith was directed to the golden tablets, from which he translated the Book of Mormon, by the angel Moroni. You can also see a replica of the golden tablets which give you an idea of their size and weight.
If you are interested in the historical records of the LDS Church, the Church History Library is located near the museum. Admission to the library is complimentary and patrons can access a large collection of books, manuscripts and photographs. Though I did not take the time to enter, it was explained that tours are given by senior missionaries and visitors can view a video which explains the mission and purpose of the Library. Next door to the museum is the Family History Library which is where many come to find information about their ancestors. Founded in 1894, records and genealogical data for over three billion deceased ancestors from around the globe are available with assistance from research specialists and trained volunteers.
Next on my agenda was the Conference Center, a relatively new structure, completed in 2000. The center has a capacity of over 21,000 and is used for the LDS Church’s general conferences, concerts and other cultural events. What I had come to see, however, was the rooftop garden that I had heard about from other visitors. Escorted by a sister missionary, I was overwhelmed by what we found!
You can also grab a bite to eat next door at the Lion House, if you’ve arranged a catered event. The house, built in in 1856, was the former home of Brigham Young, the second president of The LDS Church and the first governor of the state of Utah. Named for the lion statue located over the front entryway, the Lion House is decorated with beautiful antique furniture and has the capacity to host a variety of events.
As the day was drawing to a close, I noticed that long lines had formed in the middle of the square. Apparently, on Thursday nights, the Mormon Tabernacle Choir holds practice sessions. As tempting as that was, it was the end of a long day, I was in need of nourishment and the lines seemed endless!
The Gilgal Sculpture Garden was the brainchild of LDS businessman Thomas Battersby Child, Jr, who also designed and created the space in the mid-twentieth century. The garden contains twelve original sculptures and over seventy stones engraved with scriptures, poems and literary texts all associated with the Mormon religion.
Over the years, many renovations have been completed, including the addition of a new altar, movement of the bishop’s chair, the addition of a separate chapel for the Blessed Sacrament and a more ample baptismal font. Though the baptismal font was dry, I was able to visit the new chapel in which the casket of the Lawrence Scanlan, was placed, as per his request. On top of the casket is a reliquary containing a small piece of Saint Mary Madeline making the Cathedral one of only two in the world to contain a first class relic of the saint that the Cathedral is named for.
Masses are said in both English and Spanish many times a week and it is my understanding that tickets for the choral concerts are a hot commodity. The Cathedral, home to the only co-educational Catholic Choir School in the United States (established in 1996), has over 350 students from Pre-Kindergarten through Eighth Grade. Performing over 9,000 hours every year in the Cathedral as well as concert series, the choristers take part in tours throughout the world in addition, to singing regularly with local arts organizations, including the Utah Symphony and The Morman Tabernacle Choir.
Another famous tree, not far from the Cleveland Oak, is the Survey Tree. This tree (also called Witness Tree) was used by surveyor, Thomas Orme in 1810, when measuring the Elizabeth Hayes Tract, as point “D”. This tract was the first land purchase by John Marsh, whose descendants still own Avery Island today. This Survey Tree and a live oak, which was designated point “A” are the oldest surviving witness trees in Louisiana.
Moving on, we finally arrived at my favorite part of the Jungle Gardens…The Torii Gate and the Buddha. The gate and the Buddha seem to be at odds with the Louisiana setting, yet fit so well amidst the tranquility of the gardens. It is possible that E.A. McIlhenny’s friends, Robert M. Youngs and Ernest B Tracy, knew exactly what his oasis needed when they gifted the magnificent Buddha statue to him in 1936. The Buddha was built for the Shonfa temple in northeast Peking when it was looted by a rebel General and sent to New York to be sold. Found in a warehouse Youngs and Tracy, they knew exactly where its new home should be. McIlhenny immediately decided on the location and began building a garden, temple and lagoon with arched stone bridge, filling the area with beautiful and rare Asian plants and tall Chinese bamboo. The serene setting is one to relish and you should spend adequate time here enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. Also, if you are lucky, you may encounter local Buddhists conducting ceremonies at various times during the year, most notably on Buddha’s birthday.
Once you’ve noticed the beautiful Chinese bamboo near the Buddha temple, you will notice that it grows everywhere in the gardens. In fact, Jungle Gardens houses one of the oldest timber bamboo groves in American. When E.A. McIlhenny decided to plant bamboo, it was with the idea that both the timber and edible shoots would be beneficial to the Louisiana economy and more than sixty-four species and varieties were introduced. Keep an eye out for the most interesting of the varieties still in existence, including the “Robert Young” near the Camillia Study Garden, the large, timber-type “Moso” and “Henon” bamboo near Bird City and a small patch of “Meyerii” bamboo located near the old Jungle Gardens entrance gate.
Just before reaching Bird City is the Palm Gardens. McIlhenny was facinated with palms and cacti and discovered that they grew well in this particular site, an old mining sand pit. Here you can discover Sago palms, Chinese Tung Oil trees as well as ferns and bamboo.
Just before the Sunken Gardens lies the former home of Edward Avery McIlhenny. Returning to Avery Island in 1898 and taking over the family business, he built this house near Bird City. The home was burned to the ground in 1925 and quickly rebuilt. The home is not open to the public and appears to be under some sort of construction. Maybe a home tour in the future?
After paying our admission, we meandered through the museum, learning about the McIlhenney family and the tabasco sauce’s beginnings, from why the type of bottle was used to used to the use of its “caution” label.
My favorite part was the merchandise dedicated to the Tabasco® brand. From Tabasco® Barbies, to bobbleheads to golf clubs, there are many fans of the product willing to buy products that look like it or bear the label. Tabasco® has appeared in many motion pictures, television shows, songs, novels, comics and photographs. Stars that are fans have even gotten in on the action. Supermodel Kate Upton sported a dress with the Tabasco logo as a Halloween costume in 2011 and Michael Anthony of Van Halen owns a Tabasco® Sauce themed guitar.
Another part of the museum that was especially interesting to me was of life on the island. A friend of our family grew up there and her father worked for the McIlhenney family for most of his life. I remember attending her wedding as a child and how the idea that we were going “all the way” to an island was so exciting. The modern day inhabitants, however, were once preceded by Native Americans who had found that the island harbored a precious natural resource…a massive salt dome. The Native Americans extracted the salt which was traded with other tribes. Much like the Native Americans, the McIlhenney’s made a living from the land by discovering that he field’s unique soil aided in the growth of the pepper which was used in the production of Tabasco®. Today, some members from the same family who once assisted Edward McIlhenney in his quest to produce the unique product still work and reside on the island.
After exiting the museum, we followed the well marked path leading to other parts of the tour. As we made our way to the rear of the property, we were a little taken aback at the signs warning that bears frequent the area. Cautiously, we walked along the well-manicured path, under the massive oak trees toward the Greenhouse where pepper plants are cultivated. It should be noted that while the first peppers were completely grown and then mashed into the finished product, the seed peppers now are grown in the unique soil of the salt dome but then exported to international farmers to ensure steady growing seasons.
After the Greenhouse, we moved to the Barrel Museum which impressively displays many barrels and the materials used to produce them. A short video as well as photography aids in the understanding of how these wooden containers used to age the peppers are constructed.
Continuing on the the Barrel Warehouse, it was a necessity to breathe shallowly and sometimes completely pinch your nose. This huge warehouse safeguards thousands of white oak barrels of mash from many nations which is aged for up to three years. These barrels are topped with a layer of salt, from the island’s dome, which protects the mash from impurities. With the evolving and mellowing of the flavors, the smell becomes extremely pungent…especially on warm days.
After the aging is complete and the mash is checked for flavor and heat level, it is then transferred to the Tabasco® factory, our next stop. During the fourth stage of the tour, we learned how the mash is blended in large vats.
The sixth part of the tour is a diorama showing how minors work and extract salt from the mine. Exiting the “mine”, we entered into the part of the plant where the Tabasco® is bottled. Being that it was a Saturday, the plant was not in operation, however, I am sure that watching the bottles travel throughout the busy workroom and the numbers add up on the production board is quite impressive.
Once our tour was complete, we headed to Restaurant 1868. Invited to a crawfish boil that afternoon, I insisted that I would only accompany my parents and save room for the many pounds of the crustaceans that I planned to stuff myself with later in the day. Once I walked into the cafeteria-style eatery, smelled the cajun cooking and read the wide array of dishes offered, my resolve was starting to crack. The final straw was when a patron walked by with a plate of the crawfish nachos…okay, so I made room for crawfish nachos and later had boiled crawfish!
Stomachs full, we finally headed next door to the country store. Anything Tabasco® can be found here, but, the best part is the sampling area in the rear of the store. You can try many of the different flavors of Tabasco and some samples of the food products. You’d think after my huge plate of crawfish nachos, I should not have been able to look at food, but I sampled everything, including the Tabasco flavored green beans. In fact, I loved them so much, I walked out with a case of them!
Truly a surprise, the Tabasco® Factory Tour was more than I ever imagined. I visit some unique cities and museums around the world, but this well put-together attraction can measure up any day.
Of course, heading to the Pike Place Market was a must and we admired the many unique things for sale and watched the famous fish slingers toss the slippery, aquatic vertebrates from one to the other. These are the things that typical tourists, like us, just have to do. I had, however, uncovered something very fascinating located in an alleyway underneath the market.
The attraction draws thousands of tourists every year and has been featured in a scene for the movie, Love Happens (2009), starring Jennifer Aniston. The venue is also popular with photographers for modeling shoots as well as wedding shoots.
