Category: Italy

The Grand Old Opera

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Recently, I mentioned the word aria to my son.

He thought I was talking about the hotel in Vegas…sigh.

Many of the younger generation do not have much of an interest in opera. In fact, looking for activities in Nashville, I overheard a teen, who thought the Grand Ole Opry was an opera theater, expressly state to her parents that she would not be involved in that outing. A few years ago, it was with a determined effort that I dragged my thirteen year old to the Opera Theater in Madrid. When he ventured inside, however, he realized that he didn’t have to listen to songs in a language that he was not familiar with and yet, he became fascinated with the elaborate decor and the workings of the stage. Truly, there is something for everyone, not just the performances themselves.

For years, I have visited opera houses in cities throughout the world, yet with all of my visits to Milan, I have never taken the time to seek out a performance at the most famous opera house in the world…Teatro alla Scala.

As a former architecture and interior design student, there is nothing more fulfilling than seeing these gilded, golden-tasseled, velvet covered theaters that have hosted some of the world’s outstanding vocal talents.

After finally considering the idea of booking a performance for the evening at La Scala and discovering that I probably had not brought the proper attire, I discovered that jeans and a sweater would get me into their museum and if I timed it perfectly, I might even get a peek at the stage from one of the boxes.

Making my way to the theater, I was surprised to find a line snaking its way into the small square to the left of the famed building. Keeping an eye on the time, I knew there was a small window when rehearsals ended and the theater would be open for viewing. Finally, with tickets in hand, I was ushered inside and up the stairs to the large, columned, church-like foyer, where crowds gather before and during intermissions. It is not surprising that this space has the feel of a church…La Scala, dating back to the 1700’s, was built on the location of the church of Santa Maria alla Scala, after which it was named. Much like the treasures that can be found in a holy temple, there were beautiful chandeliers, busts of famous composers (Pucini and Toscanini) and a model of La Scala.

The doors to the theater were finally opened and I was given a number to a box that was available. Though I wish I would have had the box to myself, it was awe-inspiring to stand in this small space, looking out over the elaborate theater with its tiers of balconies and Murano chandelier and imagine witnessing one of the timeless operas being performed on the stage, in front of crowds of over two thousand.

After many minutes of drinking in this spectacle and realizing that others were trying to make their way in, I reluctantly vacated my spot along the balcony and headed back thru the foyer.

The museum, though only eight rooms, is brimming with paintings, busts, statuettes and many objects used during past performances and contain great historical value.

Though I am sure a guide would have pointed out the most relevant of the contents, there were interactive screens which described the rooms’ pieces and each of the rooms, I discovered, is dedicated to a different era in the theater’s history.

Beautiful portraits bedecked the walls in the room dedicated to the legendary sopranos of La Scala who drew crowds of admirers and another room was dedicated to Giuseppe Verdi, the composer who was very influential to the art and who passed away next door at the Grand Hotel et de Milan. Of course, no opera museum would be complete without paying reverence to the greatest soprano of the mid-20th century, Maria Callas. The gallery boasts a beautiful portrait of her, sitting on a chair next to a portrait of her arch-rival, Renata Tebaldi!

I’m sure my sons have no inkling of who Maria Callas is, but I have to admit that I learned a lot more about opera during my visit to La Scala, sparking a yearning to finally see a performance during my lifetime!

I also learned that next time I need to pack something nicer than a sweater and jeans!  

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Museo Teatrale alla Scala

  • http://www.museoscala.org/en/
  • Address: Largo Ghiringhelli 1, Piazza Scala, 20121, Milano
  • Hours: 0900-1730, daily (last admission, 1700). Closed on December 7, 24, 25, January 1, Easter, May 1, August 15.
  • Admission: Adults, €9, Students over 12 years, €6, Ages over 65, €6, Children under 12, free. Open ticket €12, good for admission on the day of your choice (until Dec 31, 2020), with fast track.

The House of the Strong Men

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Milan has some stunning architecture.

Sometimes, I just love to walk around the city photographing the buildings, never having a plan and enjoying stumbling upon anything and everything.

Just recently, I was in search of a particular landmark and was a bit stumped. As I stood on the corner of Via degli Omenoni and Via Adalberto Catena, pondering which way to go, I glanced down the street and a remarkable building caught my eye. There were giant men holding up the facade! Well, not real men…stone men!

A nearby sign gave me the information that I needed…this was Casa degli Omenoni.

Casa degli Omenoni was designed by sculptor Leone Leoni as his place of residence during the 16th century. The sculptor, known for his bronze statues of Felipe II and Carlos V (which now can be found in the Prado Museum) conceived the idea for his home and place of work, however, the “omenoni” or “big men” were sculpted by Antonio Abondio, a renowned artist of the time.

Though the interior once contained a large inventory of paintings and other works of art, including the Codex Atlanticus, a book of drawings by Leonardo da Vinci, these treasures are now preserved in museums throughout the world.

Eventually sold by Leoni’s son, the home was owned by several notable Milanese families, used as the seat of a music-publishing company, the seat of a Fascist party and as a theater. Although the interior was renovated in both the 19th and 20th centuries, the facade remains largely unchanged except for the addition of the wrought iron balconies.

The exterior of the building was quite fascinating with the eight giants gracing the spaces between the windows and flanking the door frames. The men look quite ominous with scowls upon their faces and arms crossed. Honestly, I don’t think an intruder would dare to approach this residence with these wardens protecting the entrance!

You should, however, approach! Much like the “Monster House” in Rome, Casa degli Omenoni is an exquisite piece of architecture and a quick stop on your tour of Milan!

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Casa degli Omenoni

  • Address: Via degli Omenoni, 3, 20121,
  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: Exterior free. Interior not open to public.
  • Getting There: A quick walk from La Scala, located behind the church of St. Fidele. Closest metro stops, Duomo, Cordusio and Montenapoleone.

The Woman of Three Breasts

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Brussels has the Mannekin Pis.

Paris has the Stravinsky Fountain.

A short walk from Milan’s La Scala Theater, tucked away in a nondescript neighborhood, is the Fontana dei Baci….more commonly known by the nickname, The Woman of Three Breasts.

There are many fountains similar to this design in Rome, however, this is the only one of the kind located in Milan. The statue was conceived and constructed by the former Savings Bank of Lombardy. Part of the building owned by the Cariplo (formerly the Savings Bank of the Lombardy) and adjacent to the well-known Congress Center, it sits on the corner and attracts the occasional visitor.

Like me. Or the two girls who were there, trying to get a cool Instagram or Tinder photo.

The water feature of the statue consists of a shell supported by two mighty newts with dolphins at their feet. The gushing water was believed to represent the “charity of the Savings Bank” since this was location of the offices were where taxes were paid. Two female statues flank the water feature, but it is the lady on the left that gives the statue its nickname.

The female statue, who represents the savings of the bank, holds close to her breast. a round piggy bank. The formation of the piggy bank to the mischievous eye, however, makes it look as though the female has a third breast!

The woman with “three” breasts, on the left.
Statue on right.

Okay, so its not the Trevi fountain, but worth a detour if you are coming from a performance at La Scala…especially if you are in need of updating your Instagram photo!

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Fontana dei Baci

  • Address: Via Andegari, 8, 20121 Milano MI, Italy (corner of Via Romagnosi and Via Andegari)
  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: The following transit lines have routes that pass near Fontana dei Baci. Bus, #’s 43, 57, 61. Train, R16, S4, S5, S6. Metro lines, M1, M3. Light Rail, line 1.

One More Off the List

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There are more than 900 churches in Rome.

I intend to see them all.

Recently, while walking in the Pinciano quarter, near Villa Borghese, I happened upon the church of Santa Teresa d’Avila, an early 20th century minor basilica.

Finding the doors unlocked, I ventured in to see what this church was about.

Designed in the neo-Romanesque style, the church was constructed rather quickly, beginning in 1901, and completed only one year later. Made a parochial church by Pope Pius X in 1906, the church was entrusted to the Discalced Carmelite friars, who to this day, continue to serve the parish with their convent located next door. Forty-five years later, under the orders of Pope Pius XII, the church’s status was elevated to Minor Basilica.

The exterior of the building is constructed of red brick and is rather unremarkable except for the two-storied entrance facade with its four columns and elaborately carved relief depicting Christ Blessing St. Teresa. The main entrance is graced with a bronze door designed by Fra Serafino Melchiore and the reliefs depicts scenes from the life of St. Teresa.

Sufficient to say, I hoped the interior would differ from the exterior thinking back to many of the churches I had visited in the city. Sadly, I found the decor to be quite plain except for a few decorative additions. Designed in a Latin cross plan, there were eight side altars, dedicated to Carmelite saints and two altars flanking the sanctuary and a main altar. Adorned with works by 20th century Roman artists, there was a wheel window with stained glass showing Christ the Apostles over the entrance, 18th century wooden choir stalls hailing from Santa Maria in Campo Marzio and a 17th century bronze crucifix by Pietro Tacca. Behind a screen of carved limestone, there was also a choir which contained a life-sized statue of St. Teresa.

My time in the church of Santa Teresa d’Avila was short and although I was not overwhelmed by my visitation, I’m glad I decided to take a quick look.

One more church marked off the Rome list!

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Santa Teresa d’Avila Catholic Church

  • Address: Italia Street, 37 – 00198 Rome, Italy
  • Hours: Weekdays, 0700-1200, 1615-1915, Sundays, 0800-1300, 1615-1915
  • Admission: free
  • Mass schedule: Weekdays, 0730, 0830, 1830. Sundays, 0930, 1030, 1200 and 1830

Museum For the Arts

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Sometimes the best laid plans fall apart.

Even though I had intended to venture out to the Priscilla Catacombs in Rome, we had arrived late and sleep seemed a little more important when my alarm went off.

Knowing that Borghese Park was not far away, I peeked out between the curtains, noticed the sunshine and thought that it might be nice to take a walk in the park and a turn in the Borghese Gallery and Museum.

Who would have known that you needed an advance reservation?

Well, I guess if I had done some prior research…

A little defeated, I headed out of the park and took a quick glance at my Google maps. There was a museum listed a few blocks away.

Why not? I had nothing else to do and the catacombs were closing in a short while.

Walking the few blocks to the location of the Museo Ludovisi Boncompagni, I stood for a moment to enjoy its Roman baroque-style appearance from across the street.

Upon entering, I approached the front desk, saying hello to the two women who were standing there. Asked to sign the guest book, I then inquired about the entrance fee but was told that entrance to the museum was complimentary…quite the nice surprise!

Making my way through the ground floor of the villa which belonged to the Prince Andrea Boncompagni, it was a bit like stepping back in time, seeing how the upper elite of Rome lived at the time.

The villa, which fell into Prince Boncompagni’s widow’s possession upon his death was donated, per her request, to be used as a center for cultural activity for the Italian State. Though it took many years for her request to be fulfilled for the building’s use as a museum, it was finally in the early 90’s when the building was renovated to be used to exhibit the first Italian collection dedicated to the decorative arts.

Each room is decorated in the style of its former glory and brimming with objects of art and architectural ornamentation. Antique furniture and lighting, statues, busts and vases filled each room, wall paper and interesting paintings lined the walls, but one of the highlights of the museum is a beautiful bronze, silver and gold crib dating back to 1901, commissioned by the City of Rome and donated to the monarchs Elena and Vittorio Emanuele III for the birth of their first child Iolanda.

As beautiful as the interiors are, however, the highlight of the museum is the extensive haute couture collection from designers such as Pucci, Ferragamo, Fausto Sarli, Gattinoni, Sorelle Fontana, Valentino and Litrico, among others.

Amidst the opulent interiors of the villa, stand mannequins draped in the grand designer’s garments and cases filled with shoes, hats, purses, and jewelry.

I loved examining the exquisite couture pieces up close, coming from a time when everything was sewn, embroidered and beaded by hand. As a person who enjoys sewing, I was quite impressed and aware of how many hours were required to create these masterpieces. And…although the accessories were protected by glass cases, more than once I caught myself wishing that I could drape a purse across my arm or place one of the hats upon my head!

The museum spans two floors and took me not more than an hour to peruse. Although it was not my first choice of how to spend my afternoon in Rome, I was quite pleased that I had stumbled upon it due to my laziness.

As I always say, sometimes, the best things you find are the ones you weren’t looking for!

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Museo Ludovisi Boncompani Decorative Art Museum

Castle of the Holy Angel

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

On countless occasions, I have walked by the Castel Sant’Angelo…most times heading over the Ponte Sant’Angelo bridge to the Piazza Navona, the location of two of my favorite restaurants and my absolute fave gelato shop.

Having always admired it for its spherical silhouette and commanding position along the river, I am not sure why I had never ventured inside.

With the summer crowds beginning to thin, my mind filled with the opportunities this offered. Uncrowded streets, not many long lines. I wanted to experience something different, yet still get my daily dose of culture and that could mean any number of locations to visit.

Heading out with a friend, we had decided to have dinner at The Old Bear, near the Piazza Navona, after whatever adventure we decided upon.

Hmmm…just across the river was the Castle Sant’Angelo. I was in the mood for pumpkin lasagna and yes, a castle!

Intended for use as a mausoleum by Emperor Hadrian and his family, the construction of the Castle Sant’Angelo was begun in the year 135. Only requiring four years to complete, the building was then given over to the military, eventually being integrated into the Aurelian Walls, which enclosed the city of Rome including all seven of its hills, the Campus Martius and Trastevere.

As the plague ravaged the city, Pope Gregory I experienced a vision of Saint Michael the Archangel on the top of the castle announcing the end of the epidemic. As we stood on the Ponte Sant’Angelo, itself lined with amazing angelic statues, we gazed upon the fortress and at the statue of Saint Michael comparatively placed on the apex.

After paying our entrance fee, we made our way through the five floors which are reached by a spiral ramp that first reaches the chamber of ashes and eventually cells where many historical figures were imprisoned.

There are many medieval features of the castle from its time served as a fortress. The spiraling ramp provided rapid return to safety as well as a way for horseback riders to transit the space, a small wooden bridge that sits across the imperial tomb and a drawbridge. During the years of rebellion, four bastions were added to improve the fortification of the castle. These were the bastions of San Marco, San Luca, San Giovanni and San Matteo and as we made our way through these additions, we were able to witness the many wooden catapults, rusty cannons and marble cannon balls that were useful during the attacks the city continuously received. In addition, the Bastion of San Giovanni was home to a sixteenth century gunsmith workshop in the tower and in a reconstruction of the space, we were able to take note of the items used to construct the devices.

The castle was a maze of stairs, enclosed spaces and walkways most extremely well preserved due to its continual modifications over the centuries. Finding ourselves in the Courtyard of Honour which contains the papal apartments, used as a place of refuge by the pope when they were forced to flee the Vatican, we spied the stairs which led us to the second highest point on the castle…the one where we could stand beneath the great statue of Michael the Archangel. It is here, as well, that you can stand and admire the city, including the commanding St. Peter’s Basilica, the river below and all points past.

Courtyard of Honor
Courtyard of Honor
Courtyard of Honor

The loggias were my favorite parts of the castle. The smaller of the two was built at the beginning of the sixteenth century by Pope Julius II of Rovere (you can spot his name and coat of arms on the lintel), it was used as a place for the pope to bless the crowds of pilgrims on their way towards St. Peter’s Basilica. The Grand Loggia, completed in 1543, was completed by Pope Paul III (notable for commissioning the Last Judgement in the Sistine Chapel), and conceived as an entrance to his private apartments. It is decorated with episodes of Hadrian’s life and images of the monuments that he had built, including the mausoleum itself.

Stopping at the small cafe for a short time to escape the incessant drizzle that had started, we grabbed a beverage and enjoyed the warmth and smells of the pastries served here.

Spying a break in the weather, we decided to continue on, admiring the architectural details of the castle. Eventually, we came to something totally unexpected. Within the beautifully decorated rooms, named after Clement VII Medici, we happened upon an Italian fashion exhibit showcasing haute couture and jewelry by Italian designers, including Bulgari and Valentino. Beautifully dressed mannequins and display cases filled the apartments, including the Apollo Room, which if you were not overwhelmed by the fashion displayed here, you certainly were by the magnificent marble fireplace, frescoes, door friezes and tiled floors.

Sadly, the one thing that I was so anxious to visit within the castle was the Passetto di Borgo; the passageway built in 1277 that enabled a periously-threatened pope to make a safe getaway. In 1494, Pope Alexander VI transited this passage as Charles VIII invaded the city and Clement VII escaped using the passage during the Sack of Rome in 1527, when troops of the Holy Roman Emperor massacred almost the entire Swiss Guard on the steps of St. Peter’s Basilica. In 2000, in honor of the Pope’s Jubilee year, the Passetto di Borgo was renovated and temporarily re-opened. It can be visited during specific times with the accompaniment of a guide.

Heading out of the castle, we found the rain had ceased and the darkening sky was beginning to clear. Examining the castle from the ground perspective, we walked across the bridge stopping with the masses to get one last look.

Never before having realized that Michael the Archangel was the statue that sat upon the top of the castle, I glanced at the angel once again and had a feeling of peace.

Everyone always wants a guardian angel looking out over them!

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Castle Sant’Angelo

  • http://castelsantangelo.beniculturali.it/
  • Address: Lungotevere Castello, 50, 00193 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours: Daily, 0900-1930. Closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.
  • Admission: €15.00, € 2.00 reduced. The entrance ticket also allows entry to the National Museum of the Palazzo di Venezia in the following eight days after purchase. From October to March, free entry on the first Sunday of each month. Guided tours included in the admission ticket. November to March, English, 1000 and 1500, Italian, 1130 and 1630. April to October, English 1000 and 1630, Italian, 1130 and 1800.
  • Getting There: Metro, Ottaviano. Buses numbers 23, 34, 49, 64, 87, 280, 492, 926 and 990.

Stumbling Upon a Statue

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

What I love most about Rome is that there is always something different to discover around each corner…from statues to memorials, to major landmarks and archaeological sites…some more interesting than others, but all deserving some insight into their historical aspects.

While on a walk, I came across a statue on the backside of the Ministry of Economics and Finance. Curious about its origins, I decided to investigate.

This monument, dedicated to Quintino Sella, an Italian politician, economist and mountaineer, was erected in 1893, and was chosen after thirty-one sketches were presented for consideration to the city. Inaugurated on April 9, 1893, in the square in front of the Ministry of Finance, the monument was eventually moved on the side of Via Cernaia.

Born in the Province of Biella, Quintino Sella studied engineering in Turin and then mineralogy in Paris, witnessing the revolution of 1848. Returning to Turin in 1852, he worked as a professor of geometry, mathematics and then, eventually, mineralogy.

In 1860, he moved into politics, serving as a deputy for the city of Cossato, secretary-general of public instruction and then received the portfolio of finance from Rattazzi and later, La Marmora. His great political influence led to his heading of a Moderate Conservative cabinet at which he remained until retiring from public life.

Despite his busy educational and political aspirations, Sella spent a great deal of time pursuing his mountaineering interests. He was involved in the competition for the first ascent of the Matterhorn and founded the Club Alpino Italiano, with a number of its mountain huts named in his honor.

Passing away in 1884, Quintino Sella was buried at the graveyard near the Santuary of Oropa, where a pyramid was erected in his honor.

The monument that I observed at the Ministry of Finance, was designed by Ettore Ferrari and consists of a cross-shaped stepped base from which rises a pedestal on which the bronze statue of the statesman appears to be walking with his right hand on his chest and holding papers in his left. A female figure with a naked breast wrapped in a wide cloak, is seated beneath Sella’s representation. On the female’s left side is a bronze figure of a naked boy, symbolizing the Genius of Finance, holding a book with the word Finanze on it.

The statue was an interesting find and after discovering its history, I went in search of the plaque also dedicated to Quintino Sella on Via Nazionale.

It wasn’t the Coliseum or the Vatican…but I learned a bit about an important Italian, just by stumbling across a statue dedicated to him.

Lots more of that in Rome!!!

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Monumento a Quintino Sella

The Papal Basilica of St. Peter’s

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Ever see something many times, yet never tire of it?

This is how I feel about St. Peter’s Basilica.

It’s no secret that I love churches, but this one surpasses all.

Situated on Vatican Hill, St. Peter’s Basilica can be seen from many parts of Rome, beckoning visitors, that total in the millions every year, from all over the world. One of only four Major basilicas in the world (with the other three also in Rome…St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, Santa Maria Maggiore and St. John the Lateran), this basilica achieved its fame as it derives its name from the fact that it was built on the site where St. Peter was buried in 64 AD.

This UNESCO world heritage site has a capacity of over 60,000 people and covers an area of over 22,300 square meters, making it one of the world’s largest churches. Originally the site of the Circus of Nero and a cemetery, the original basilica was erected between the years of 319 and 349 AD under the orders of Emperor Constantine, the first Christian emperor of Rome. Falling into disrepair after standing for over 1,000 years, Pope Julius II (who also commissioned the Sistine Ceiling) made the decision to demolish and rebuild the structure.

The greatest architects of the Roman Renaissance and Baroque were consulted and utilized for this new basilica, including Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo, Donato, Giacomo della Porta and Maderno with Bramante’s original design being chosen in 1506. After 120 years, the basilica was completed and consecrated by Pope Urban VIII.

St. Peter’s Square, itself, is an architectural highlight, designed by Bernini in the seventeenth century, and is overlooked by the Loggia della Benedizione, the central balcony from where the pope delivers his Urbi et Orbi blessing at Christmas and Easter. It is here, on the right, where you join the queue to enter St. Peter’s basilica. The line moves quite quickly, however, the time seemed to drag as we stood in the heat of the August afternoon, making our way to the security screening area.

Finally, we entered the massive church and as always, I found myself unsure of where to turn first. There is so much to see on the main level of St. Peter’s including the Michelangelo’s Pieta, located to the right of the entrance, between the Holy Door and the altar of Saint Sebastian.. Carved from a single slab of marble, it was created by Michelangelo when he was only twenty-two years of age and is one of his first works of art. It is the only piece he ever created that was signed.

Take a look around on the floor nearby, and see if you can spot the red disk that marks that spot where Charlemagne and later Holy Roman Emperors were crowned by the pope.

Walking along the right and left naves, there were many side altars to admire, each more beautiful than the next, but it was what was at the high altar that commanded our attention. Here, Bernini’s famous baldachin is supported by four spiral columns and made with bronze from taken from the Pantheon. The baldechin stands over the altar which sits above the site of St. Peter’s grave. So holy is this site that the pope is the only priest allowed to serve at the altar.

Above us, the dome, also created by Michelangelo, was another of the basilica’s highlights. Soaring to a height of almost four hundred feet, this dome was based on Brunelleschi’s design for the Duomo in Florence. The cupola is supported by four stone piers names after the saints whose statues adorn the Bernini designed niches…Longinus, Helena, Veronica and Andrew. Having been up in the cupola before, I was anxious to see the remaining features before heading upwards.

Another of the basilica’s treasures is the 13th century bronze statue of St. Peter. Designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, what is immediately noticed is that statue’s right foot is extremely shiny…due to the centuries of caresses by visitors hoping to receive blessings by rubbing the extremity.

Heading into the Museo Storico Artistico, located in the left nave, we perused the multitude of sacred relics, including a jewel-studded cross gifted to the church by emperor Justinian II, a 6th century Crux Vaticana and a tabernacle by Donatello.

Finding our way to the Vatican Grottoes beneath the basilica, it is here that visitors can pay their respects to the tombs and sarcophagi of 91 popes that have served the Catholic church during its long history. You can also see the several large columns from the original 4th century basilica here, but my favorite part of being in this space is the tomb of the most beloved St. John Paul II, the second longest-serving pope in modern history who is credited in ending Communist rule. It is also interesting to note that in addition to the entombed popes, there are three women laid to rest here; Queen Christina of Sweden, Agnesina Colonna Caetani and Queen Charlotte of Cyprus.

Beneath this area, excavations have uncovered what is believed to be the tomb of St. Peter. This area, however, is accessible only to those escorted by a guide, booked well in advance.

Making our way back upstairs, we decided that it was time to head upstairs, to the dome and the cupola. The dome’s ticket entrance is located on the right of the basilica’s main portico and a major decision is to be made here when purchasing a ticket.

Walk up the 551 steps to the top (kudos to those who do) or take the lift halfway and climb the remaining 320 steps. Of course, we had had a long day, traveling from Naples and exploring the Vatican, so you probably guess what our decision was.

After exiting the lift, we walked around the first level, taking in the beautiful mosaics that line the walls making up the dome’s design and the birds’ eye view of the basilica below.

Walking out onto the roof of the basilica, we walked out to check out the statues of Jesus and the Apostles that can be seen on the roof of the basilica from the square. There is also a bathroom, a refreshment stand and a gift shop that you can mail your Vatican City postmarked postcards from.

Continuing onward and upward, it was here that the journey becomes a little more challenging. This second part requires the climbing of the remaining 320 steps to the top. There is a narrow, single-file, spiral staircase that requires you to lean in to accommodate the slanting of the roof and at the end, a corkscrew staircase. Though there are some windows along the way, this part definitely made me feel extremely claustrophobic and I could not wait to reach the top.

Once I did, however, the views of the city and St. Peter’s Square below were breathtaking!

Who could ever tire of this?

That’s why I keep coming back!

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St. Peter’s Basilica

  • http://www.vatican.va/various/basiliche/san_pietro/index_it.htm
  • Address: Piazza San Pietro, 00120 Città del Vaticano, Vatican City
  • Hours: October 1 until March 31, 0700-1830, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1900. Dome Access, October 1 until March 31, 0730-1700, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1800.
  • Admission: Basilica, free. Dome Access, including lift to terrace level and continue on foot (320 steps), € 10.00. Ascent on foot (551 steps), € 8.00. Reductions for schools are possible by presenting an attestation of the Institute with the list of participants, € 5.00
  • Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from St. Peter’s Basilica.

Over My Head

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There are many unique highlights that visitors aspire to visit on a trip to the Rome.

There is one, however, that tops the list.

The Sistine Chapel.

Located in Vatican City, the smallest country in the world, the Vatican Museums receive more than six million visitors a year who come to see the seventeen museums that make up the complex. The Sistine Chapel, is the pièce de résistance.

Having been to the Vatican museums many years ago on a couple of occasions, I knew that in order to obtain entrance to the Sistine Chapel, there are many chambers and rooms to pass through and countless masterpieces to study before reaching the famed chapel.

Being the height of the summer season, the line snaked around the exterior of the building and the interior was overloaded, Walking slowly, shoulder to shoulder, we quickly realized that reaching the Sistine Chapel was going to take an extensive amount of time and much jockeying for position.

Passing through the various collections, the Gregorian Profane Museum, Ethnological Missionary Museum, Pinacoteca, Pio-Clementino Museum, Rafaello Rooms and the Chiaramonti Museum, we struggled with the heat and the incessant jostling from other people trying to see what each collection had to offer.

The one thing I realized was that I was enduring this to show my son the glorious treasure that awaited us deep in the museum. A glorious ceiling painted by Michaelangelo…and yet, as I looked here, above me, there were countless paintings over my head. Yes, many artworks on the walls, but each room’s ceilings were painted exquisitely, setting the stage for what was to come.

We admired what we could in each of the galleries, but I kept my head aimed high and marveled at what was above.

Finally, we spotted the signs directing us to the Sistine Chapel!

As we entered the chapel, I immediately snapped a picture of the ceiling and was reprimanded by one of the guards. Making our way into the throng of people passing along the outer wall, I realized that if we kept walking, we were going to leave the chapel without having had the time to inspect what had taken so long to reach. Pushing out of the moving queue, we made our way to the center of the room where there were many people standing.

Protected from guarded eyes by the people around me, I was able to capture a few photographs of the jewel of the Vatican before just taking a few moments to relish the fact that we were indeed in one of the most magnificent holy places and working chapels in the world.

The Sistine Chapel was erected between the years of 1473 and 1481 by architect Giovanni dei Dolci under the orders of Pope Sixtus IV. Although its exterior is nothing spectacular, the interior is what over 6 million visitors come to see annually. Its frescoes on the side walls were painted by Florentine Renaissance masters (1481-1483) and depict the lives of Christ and Moses and various popes. The lowest parts of the side walls are covered for ceremonial occasions, depicting events from the Gospels and the Acts of the Apostles and were designed by Raphael (1515-1519).

The most important part of the chapel are the reason all visitors leave with a crook in their necks…the frescoes by Michelangelo on the ceiling and on the west wall behind the altar. The entire collection of frescoes on the ceiling are collectively known as the Sistine Ceiling and were commissioned by Pope Julius II in 1508 depicting incidents and personages from the Old Testament. Many years later (1534-1541), Michaelangelo was commissioned again, by Pope Paul III, to paint the Last Judgment fresco on the west wall.

It is so spectacular, it is almost too much to take in and before long, we realized that we had outstayed our welcome. Reluctantly finding our way to the exit, we entered the Borgia apartments and continued our journey through the remaining parts of the museum.

To see everything that the Vatican Museums has to offer, it would take days. The Vatican Museums encompass the world’s largest private art collection (with its origins dating back to 1503) and most of what is in their possession, not on display. If you are interested in seeing as much as you can of the Vatican Museums, I would recommend starting your day early and having a plan, including a map with the items you are most interested in seeking out. Since on this day, we had hoped to see what we could of the museums, with the Sistine Chapel being our main focus, and St. Peter’s Basilica, we limited ourselves to what little we could achieve.

Me? Since I had been there before on a couple of occasions, I was content that I had seen something new. Never before had I realized what was over my head when I was so mesmerized by all that was around me. I understand that many people have that one opportunity to visit Rome and see what they can. Thankfully, I have been blessed to have had more than one chance.

If you ever find yourself in Rome for a second (or third) time, take the time to go back to the Vatican again and again. You never know what else you might find!

What you can expect to see in each of the museums:

  • Pio-Clementino Museum: Created by popes Clement XIV and Pius VI, this museum holds the most important Greek works in the Vatican.
  • Apartment of Pius V: The work of Pope Pius V, this museum contains Flemish tapestries from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, a collection of medieval ceramics and another of medieval miniature mosaics.
  • Gallery of the Chandeliers: Roman replicas of Greek originals and enormous chandeliers from the second century A.D. decorate this elegant gallery.
  • Ethnological Missionary Museum: This museum contains works of art from all the papal missions of the world, among which there are objects originating from Tibet, Indonesia, India, the Far East, Africa and America.
  • Gallery of Maps: Carried out between the years 1580 and 1585, the beautiful maps painted in fresco on the walls of this gallery represent the Italian regions and the possessions of the Church.
  • Historical Museum – Carriage Pavilion: In this section you will find coaches, saddles, cars, and Vatican City’s first locomotive.
  • Gallery of Tapestries: Exhibition of Flemish tapestries created between 1523 and 1534.
  • Pio-Christian Museum: The collection of Christian antiquities is composed of statues, sarcophagi and archaeological ruins from the sixth century.
  • Pinacoteca: The eighteen rooms in the Pinacoteca building contain pictorial works dating from the Middle Ages until 1800.
  • Sobieski Room and the Room of the Immaculate: In both rooms you will find paintings originating in the Italian “Ottocento”.
  • Egyptian Museum: Among other pieces acquired by the popes you can find some impressive Egyptian sculptures, besides the prized sarcophagi from the third century B.C. There are also some black basalt statues originating from the Villa Adriana, which are replicas of Egyptian models.
  • Etruscan museum: This part of the museum contains elements of ceramic, bronze and gold belonging to the Etruscan civilization.
  • Chiaramonti Museum: Created thanks to Pius VII Chiaramonti, this gallery holds thousands of sculptures including portraits of emperors, images of the gods and some funeral monuments.
  • Gregorian Profane Museum: Greek and Roman sculptures are exhibited here from the first to third centuries A.D.
  • Borgia Apartment: The apartments that belonged to the Pope Alexander VI Borgia today serve as exhibition rooms for the Collection of Modern Religious Art.
  • Raphael Rooms: Rafael and his assistants decorated the apartments of the Pope Julius II.
  • Sala Della Biga: Holding court in this space is a monumental marble figure of a chariot drawn by two horses carried out in the first century A.D.

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Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel

  • Vatican Official Website http://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/en.html
  • Sistine Chapel
  • http://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/it/collezioni/musei/cappella-sistina/storia-cappella-sistina.html
  • Address: 00120 Vatican City
  • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1800 (final entry, 1600). Every last Sunday of the month, 0900-1400 (final entry, 1230). Closed on Sundays (except the last Sunday of each month), 1 January, 11 February 19 March, 22 April, 1 May, 29 June, 14 and 15 August, 1 November, 25 and 26 December
  • Admission: No guide. Adults, 17.00€, Reduced 8.00€, Online booking fee, 4.00€. For audioguide, add additional 7.00€. Prices vary for guided tours, please consult Vatican Official website.
  • Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from Vatican City.

Important to note: Proper dress is required and visitors can be denied access even with a ticket. The following clothing items are not allowed in the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Gardens…mini skirts, shorts above the knee, sleeveless tops, lowcut clothing, hats. The Vatican’s dress code applies to both men and women.

Photos are not allowed in the Sistine Chapel.

Happy Valentine

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Most people visit the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin only to see the Mouth of Truth.

Even when approaching the church, visitors often forget to admire the medieval facade with its seven open arches, seven windows and slender Romanesque belltower (added in the 12th century), as they ponder the long line snaking out from the portico.

Should we wait? Or shouldn’t we?

Whether one decides to take their place in the interminable line to place their hand between the jaws of the stone face’s mouth or not, a short visit to the church should be in order.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin was founded during the sixth century on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to Hercules Invictus which was last rebuilt in the 2nd century BC.

With its name being derived from the Greek word, kosmidioin, meaning ornamented, it would be expected that the interior would be one decorated beautifully. Though that was once the case, the minor basilica’s only surviving enhancements are some floor mosaics, a bishop’s chair, a ceremonial canopy and the medieval choir enclosure.

The church’s main draw, however, is the glass shrine with the skull of St. Valentine, patron saint of love, located on the left side of the church. Once located in the lower level crypt, the remains of the martyr, who now lends his name to the holiday we celebrate on February 14 (the day of his death) can be admired on its own altar. The skull wears a wreath of flowers and has a stenciled inscription across the skull.

Though there are ten St. Valentine’s listed in the Roman Catholic register of saints, the one whose skull resides in Santa Maria in Cosmedin church is believed to be a holy priest who assisted St. Marius in giving aid to the martyrs persecuted under Claudius II. After being summoned by the Emperor to Rome, demanded to renounce his faith and refusing, he was beaten and beheaded.

The church is quite small but make sure not to miss the ancient Crypt of Adrian I, located under the presbytery. Created between the years of 772 and 795, it is a small space divided into three naves by six columns and reminiscent of a small basilica. There is a small altar at the far end and it is believed that the crypt once housed other relics (Cirilla, Adauctus, Valentino, Adriano, Amelia, Antonino, Clemenza, Generous, Ottavio, Patrick, Olympia and St. John Baptist de Rossi). According to legend, an ancient tunnel once connected the crypt to the catacombs on the Appian Way.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin is located adjacent to Circus Maximus and just across the river from the Trastevere, the funky bohemian area of Rome filled with restaurants, shops and of course, more churches.

Make sure to include it in your day of sightseeing…then you can say you had a Happy Valentine’s Day!

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Santa Maria in Cosmedin