Wondrous Windmills

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While driving along Interstate 10, through the San Gorgonio Mountain Pass in the San Bernadino Mountains, you can’t miss the white giants.

The windmills.

While I was not interested in doing a formal tour, of which many different ones are offered, I did want to see these colossal turbines from a little closer perspective.

First encountering the windmills while driving along Indian Canyon Drive and heading to Joshua Tree National Park, I marveled at their size and stark contrast to the barren desert landscape. Since I did not have the time to stop and photograph the rows of white windmills at the time, I vowed to find a place to pull-off of the road on my way back and again, the next morning, for varying looks and lighting.

The Palm Springs wind farm was opened in 1982 and was destined to harness the natural wind from the San Gorgonio Pass, the gap between Southern California’s two highest mountains, a natural wind tunnel. Winds here have reached 80 miles per hour and generate enough power for 300,000 homes in Palm Springs and the Coachella Valley.

The windmills were installed at a cost of $300,000 each and are two-bladed turbines that require wind speeds of at least 13 miles per hour. They stand 328 feet tall and their blades are as long as half of an American football field (150 feet)!

As I had vowed, upon my return to Palm Springs that afternoon, I pulled onto a side road and captured an amazing photo with the sun slinking down behind the mountains. It was a spectacular sight!

The next morning, with the bright early sun aiming from the opposite direction as the previous day, I realized the opportunity for contrastive photographs. While traveling on Indian Canyon Road, just before Interstate 10, I spotted a sandy road with a sign directing travelers to the Amtrak Station. An empty parking lot gave me ample opportunity to gaze out at these skyward reaching towers adjacent to the station.

A short distance past the interstate, there were numerous side roads upon which I was able to pull my car onto and take more photographs. Although I wasn’t able to get extremely close, learn about the area’s geology, the development, design and evolution of wind turbines or see some of the older models or some of the windmill tops on the ground in the equipment yard as you would during one of the formal tours, I think that the drive through many of the back roads gave me the photo opportunities that I was seeking. There’s always Google for everything else, right?

While I enjoyed these spectacular views, they seemed quite familiar. I knew that I had seen countless older-styled windmills in the Netherlands and occasionally new ones such as these, but I had seen these particular ones and this landscape somewhere else.

Mission Impossible 3, with Tom Cruise was shot in this area. Remember the helicopter chase?

Go chase’em on your own or with a tour! Worth seeing!

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Palm Springs Wind Farms

Short End of the…Tree

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When planning my trip to Palm Springs, I was rattling off a list of some of the places and attractions that I had hoped to visit.

While I am pretty adept at discovering everything there is to see and do in a city, I had missed one.

Joshua Tree National Park.

It was my middle son who mentioned that I should venture out into the desert to see this national treasure.

Elevated to National Park status in 1994, Joshua Tree is located one hour east of Palm Springs and approximately three hours from San Diego, Los Angeles and Phoenix…very easy to get to one of the park’s three entrances from any of these cities.

About a year ago, I had visited the Badlands National Park. It was one of the most amazing experiences I have ever had with each part of the park offering something totally different and I expected the same thing from Joshua Tree.

Dating back to 1936, when Minerva Hoyt, a Pasadena resident tirelessly worked to protect the cacti and other plants of the area, 825,000 acres were set aside as the Joshua Tree National Monument. With its large population of Joshua trees…the tree that mid-19th century Mormons believed to look like the biblical figure Joshua with his outstretched arms (tree’s limbs) guiding them westward…visitors are reminded through exhibits within its Visitor Centers of the role it played in helping homesteaders succeed in building and establishing their new lands. Well paved roads, scenic overlooks and well-maintained trails attract those near and far…Joshua Tree National Park brings in over two million visitors from all over the world each year.

Joshua Tree National Park Visitor Center

While of course, I expected to see a LOT of Joshua Trees…I wasn’t sure what else I might see.

Probably desert.

Probably rocks.

Probably trails.

Yes, they were all there. But as beautiful as the scenery was, I expected a little more.

Okay, you can hate me for that. But…I kept remembering the Badlands with its spires, its rainbow colored hills, its bison herds, Prairie Dog town, thousands of valley overlooks.

There is no doubt that I thought it a stunning and diverse place and I enjoyed the few hours we spent there. And…maybe that was the problem. We only spent about four hours in total driving through the park, as my travel companions had to be back in Palm Springs for an event later in the day. We made the most of our time in the park, examining the exhibits at the Joshua Tree Visitor Center near the West Entrance, climbing the rocks at Hidden Valley, gazing out of the Coachella Valley from Keys View, a little hiking at the Hall of Horrors and a longer hike to Skull Rock from Jumbo Rocks campground before exiting at the North Entrance near Twenty Nine Palms…all while constantly keeping an eye on our progress through the park and on our watches.

Our first views of Joshua Tree National Park after the West Entrance Station.
Hidden Valley
Hidden Valley
Keys View
Keys View
Keys View
Keys View
Cap Rock
Big Trees Trail
Big Trees Trail
Big Trees Trail
Hall of Horrors
Hall of Horrors
Hall of Horrors
Skull Rock Nature Trail
Skull Rock Nature Trail
Skull Rock
Skull Rock and Nature Trail

Those four hours paled in comparison to my entire day in the Badlands. There, I was one of a handful in the park due to it being extremely cold that winter day and I was alone in my car. Don’t ever discount being alone in a National Park! While I chose to not do any lengthy hikes because I was solo, I did do some short ones and I stopped whenever and wherever I felt like it to take thousands of photos! There was nothing keeping me from returning to Rapid City except the darkness at the end of the day.

SO…would I go back to Joshua Tree? Yes, absolutely! But this time with much more time to explore! It is a great place to enjoy hiking, camping and the great outdoors. It’s perfect for solo adventurers, groups and even for families! Much like us, children will love spotting formations in the rocks that looks like other things.

Can you spot the snake?
Can you spot the shark and the dog?
Can you spot the four sharks?
Sleeping giant on the hillside?
His name must be Rocky!
Yep…I won’t highlight this one. Definitely not for children!

I feel a little like I got the short end of the stick…er…tree.

Next time, I want to have sufficient time to truly experience this natural wonder, see some of the historical places in the park like the Kellogg House and Keys Ranch, hike to the Wall Street Mill and Desert Queen Mine and go back to see the fascinating Skull Rock…but this time, do it the easy way…park along the road and walk the few feet to the rock! Next time, I want to stay in the Yucca Valley so that I would be near the entrances for an early start. Next time I want to visit the Cholla Cactus Garden!

Next time!

Next time…more time!!!

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Joshua Tree National Park

  • https://www.nps.gov/jotr
  • Address: 74485 National Park Drive, Twentynine Palms, California 92277-3597
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: Single, non-commercial vehicles, $30 (7-day permit). Motorcycles, $25 (7-day permit). Individual on foot or bike, $15 (7-day permit). Joshua Tree National Park Annual Pass, $55, valid for 12 months from the month of purchase and covers the entrance fee for the signee and accompanying passengers entering in a single, non-commercial vehicle. Can be purchased at park entrance stations and visitor centers.

The Wild, Wild West

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Saturday afternoons were for westerns.

Bonanza (1959 to 1973), Gunsmoke (1955-1975) and Rawhide (1959-1966), were some of my favorites. They were preceded by countless of other popular movies and series, set during a time where cowboys, Indians, outlaws and sheriffs ruled the land.

When Hollywood began searching for a “living, breathing movie set”, 32,000 acres in the California desert near Palm Springs was deemed the perfect location. Investors, including Roy Rogers, Dale Evans, Dick Curtis and Bud Abbott, incorporated the land which became known as Pioneertown.

The town, easily accessible from Los Angeles, served as a filming location, vacation destination and residence for those working in the entertainment industry. The structures built on Mane Street were fully functional and included a grocery store, saloon, restaurant, motel, beauty shop, bowling center and shooting gallery. More than fifty films and serials were filmed in Pioneertown during the 1940s and 1950s, including the popular Gene Autry Show, the Cisco Kid television series (1950-1956), Annie Oakley television series (1954-1957) and The Adventures of Judge Roy Bean (1955-1956) and it wasn’t uncommon for two separate movies to be shooting on opposite sides of the street.

Pioneertown Mane Street

Being such a short distance from Palm Springs, I decided to make the drive to see what Pioneertown was all about in a day and age when westerns are no longer all the rage. Though I anticipated some authentic-looking buildings, much like the few I had encountered while in the small towns of South Dakota, I was really surprised by the number of buildings which comprised the town and its credibility.

Film Museum and Trading Post

As I arrived a bit early in the morning, I discovered that I was one of only three people wandering the dusty main street, Mane Street. Beginning in the Film Museum and Trading Post, I marveled at the collection of memorabilia on display and watched the film which narrated the story of this historic town.

Film Museum and Trading Post
Trading Post

Walking west on the north side of the street, I photographed and inspected each of the buildings and businesses that occupied their spaces…the General Mercantile and its souvenirs, the Pottery and its artwork and the Chapel, which to my dismay, was locked. There were weathered wagons, rusty mine cars and remnants of old machinery littering the street as well as a few artful pieces.

General Mercantile
General Mercantile
Pottery
Pottery
Pioneertown Chapel

To say that the residents of Pioneertown have a bit of humor is an understatement. Barrel cactuses wearing sunglasses and quirky signage was prominent, but they really fooled me near the Mercantile. My curiosity got the best of me as I saw a barrel, covered with mesh wire and topped with the sign, “Warning! Baby Rattlers”. I half-expected to see small snakes slithering around the bottom, but that seemed like such a hazard…instead, the bottom was lined with baby rattles…yes, the kind baby’s like to shake!!!

As I approached the Bath House and Hotel, I stepped onto the boardwalk, I and passed the Bank and the Livery. Many buildings were inaccessible as they were now private residences. At the end of Mane Street, I stopped to inspect the town’s Ok Corral, the Sheriff’s Office and the U.S. Post Office, said to be the most photographed branch in the United States.

Pioneertown Ok Corral
Pioneertown Post Office and Sheriff’s Office

I made my way back up the south side of the street, I noticed that more visitors were making their way amongst the buildings. Although still eerily quiet, it must have been quite the site during its prime to see horses hitched to their posts and gunslingers ready for duel…of course with cameras recording!

Pioneertown Residences
Pioneertown Residences
Pioneertown Residences
Pioneertown Residences

Approaching the Hay and Feed Store (53585 Mane Street), I learned that this was the location of the current sound stage. Today, though not in the capacity as it was started, the town still functions as a production set where movies, independent films, music videos and commercials are filmed quite regularly. Some of the more familiar titles you might recognize are Ice Cube’s I Rep That West Music video (2010), Kenny Roger’s The Gambler (2014), Cyndi Lauper’s Funnel of Love music video (2016) and Ingrid Goes West (2017), which I had actually seen!

Pioneertown Sound Stage
Pioneertown Sound Stage

Finally, I completed my walk and headed to the Pappy + Harriet’s Grill for a bite to eat. Sadly, I was visiting on a day in which it was closed, but there was still a few more things to see. The Wild West and Stunt Show arena was closed but I was able to peek through the fence to see its primitive hay bale seats and old west architectural set. A little further, I spotted the Pioneertown Motel…the perfect spot to spend to live out my cowgirl fantasy…horseback riding by day, marshmallows by the campfire and a short stumble home from the Red Dog Saloon!

Pioneertown Motel
Pioneertown Motel

Though the original intent of Pioneertown is much different than what it has evolved into, it is now a destination where regular folk can live out their cowboy fantasies in the Wild, Wild West…whether for the day, the night, or as the residents do…for a lifetime!

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Pioneertown

  • https://visitpioneertown.com/
  • Address: 53626 Mane St, Pioneertown, California, USA 92268
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: From downtown Palm Springs. Head north on Indian Canyon Drive past Interstate 10. Turn right onto CA-62 E and continue for 13 miles. Turn right onto Pioneertown Road and drive for 4.4 miles. Pioneertown will be on the right with parking behind Pappy + Harriet’s Grill.

In the Line of Fire

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When in Rome…

That is a most popular saying, but truly, when in Rome, there are things you must experience.

The top of my list is gelato! Then there is the Trevi Fountain, The Vatican, countless museums and churches…the list is endless.

At some point on their trip, most visitors find themselves at St. Peter’s Basilica, usually in conjunction to a visit to the Vatican. Church lovers like me, not only find themselves in these famous sanctuaries but also in nearby parish churches.

Despite being just down the block from St. Peter’s Basilica, Santa Maria in Traspontina, a titular church, doesn’t fall too far behind in the beauty or interesting history department and is one sanctuary in the area that should be placed on any visitor’s must-do list.

When it was first constructed, Santa Maria in Traspontina, was located near the Castel San Angelo, traspontina…Italian for beyond the bridge. This church, sadly, was demolished by Pius IV to clear the line of fire for the cannons of the Castel. When plans for a new church were conceived, there was insistence by the papal artillery officers that the dome be low to avoid the previous problem, so instead, the decision was made to erect the church a short distance away, to the west of the Castel.

Construction began in 1566, by architect Sallustio Peruzzi, was continued by Ottavio Mascherino and completed by Francesco Peparelli, who also built the bell tower. Although the exterior is quite congruent to other churches in the area, it is interesting to note that the travertine used to build the façade came from demolition material from the Colosseum.

As I entered the church, I discovered it to be a wide open space, highlighted by a beautifully illustrated ceiling and dome, but devoid of the usual columns that define its spaces. The walls are richly decorated in ochre hues and painted panels depicting religious scenes, while the floors offset its golden decor with black and white patterned tiles.

The Latin cross interior is edged on either side with chapels, the most significant being the chapel of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, built in 1581 by the Marquise of the Guard Victory, Tolfa Orsini. The beautiful statue of the Madonna del Carmine, was placed in the church in 1922, blessed by Pope Pius XI and crowned by Bishop Luigi Pelizzi on the eve of the Feast of Mount Carmel in 1928. Other chapels are devoted to Saints Barbara, Canute, Albert of Trapani, Mary Magdalene De’ Pazzi, Andrew Corsini, Angelo of Sicily, Theresa of Jesus, Peter and Paul, Elijah, Our Lady of Carmel, the Pieta and the Holy Cross.

My eye was immediately drawn to the high altar. Erected as a monument to the beautiful image of the Italian-Byzantine Madonna, it was placed under a rich canopy, dating back to the 13th century (today’s canopy is a 19th century reproduction). The altar was created by local craftsmen and consecrated in 1694. What should not be missed, however is the altarpiece, Icon with the Virgin Mary and Child, which dates back to 1216, and brought from the Holy Land by the Carmelites.

While the church is known for its historical relocation and its dedication to the Blessed Virgin Mary, it is also more recently known for something else…Pachamama. Pachamama is known through the Amazon region as the pagan goddess of fertility. Worship of Pachamama gave way to the veneration of Mary after the Spanish conquest of South American and the eventual conversion of its people. Pagan statues of Pachamama were used in a ceremony during an assembly of Amazon officials in Rome and were then placed at the church’s altar to promote inclusivity…an act met with resistance by many of its faithful. Soon after, the idols were stolen and thrown into the Tiber River, an act recorded and uploaded to the internet. Pope Francis was highly criticized for his responsibility in placing the idols at the altar of the church, a place reserved for its own Icon with the Virgin Mary and Child. While the statues were recovered shortly thereafter, it is interesting to note that Santa Maria in Traspontina houses the office of Father Vincenzo Taraborelli, a Carmelite priest and one of the busiest exorcists in Rome. For those opposed to the Pachamama demon statues, maybe Santa Maria in Traspontina was the perfect place to house them…

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Santa Maria In Traspontina

  • https://www.parrocchiatraspontina.it/
  • Address: Via della Conciliazione 14, Rome, Italy
  • Hours: 0800-1300, 1600-2000, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Mass Times: Sunday and Feast Days, 0800, 0930, 1100, 1215, 1830. Daily, 0730, 0900, 1830. Rosary, daily, 1800.

The Gift

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The mission of the day was to see a fountain.

I saw the fountain, but I also found a church.

Imagine that? Another church in Rome!

After a bit of research, I had learned about the history of the Fontana Delle Cariatidi and the controversy that it had stirred due to its explicit statues and its proximity to a nearby church. Deciding that the fountain was the first thing that I wanted to visit during the beautiful, Roman summer afternoon, I accomplished this feat and the church, San Gioacchino in Prati, less than a block away, became my next calling. It soon became a place that I learned a great deal about the generosity of Catholics throughout the world.

The construction of the church of San Gioacchino began in 1891, to address the problem of the expanding population and movement to the outer perimeters of the city. Pope Leo XIII (whose birth name was Gioacchino Pecci), then the head of the Catholic church, had always desired that a church be built in Rome to honor his patron saint. Because of the need and of his long-standing wish, this church became a gift to him for the celebration of his 50th anniversary of priesthood. The church took a long seven years to be completed due to the mismanagement of the project by Abbe Antonio Brugidou and delays due to natural disasters. The pope, however, persevered and realized his dream and his gift.

Finally opening to its parishioners in 1898, San Gioacchino’s interior was not quite in its finished stages, more specifically, the side chapels. Regardless, it was dedicated to St. Joachim, the father of Mary, the Blessed Mother, consecrated on June 6, 1911 and made a titular church in 1960 (assigned to a member of the clergy who is created a cardinal).

What struck me the most, in a city abound with churches, was its interesting façade, designed and built by architect, Raffael Ingami. While churches are usually known for their amazing art collection and painting on their interiors, this one is graced with beautiful paintings on the exterior, atop the portico, and depict the Blessed Mother, its namesake, St. Joachim, other saints and angels. The gold dome is decorated with perforated burgundy stars.

My walk down the main nave kept my eyes trained on the ceiling, observing its high decorated vault, edged by small, circular stained glass windows and below, a darkened balcony and large columns.

The altar and pulpit were highlighted by a small dark blue dome, awash with ambient light from the perforations in the outer stars and from the stained glass. The beautifully crafted maple pulpit, divided into chiseled panels, depicted scenes from the lives of Saint Peter, Saint Paul, Saint Joachim, Saint Anna, Saint Alfonso de Liguori, Pope Gregory the Great, Saint Agostino, Saint Girolamo and Saint Ambrogio. It was quite hard to appreciate the altar’s stark beauty, but I was willing to excuse the lack of illumination to be able to visit on a weekday and have the place all to myself.

The side altars were what I was most enchanted with, however. While most of the church was in a darkened state, many of the chapels were somewhat illuminated. What I learned about each of these elaborately decorated chapels was that while they were not completed initially, a unique plan was set in place to do so.

Abbe Brugidou, returned to Lyon by Pope Leo XIII for his inadequacy in fulfilling obligations to bring the church’s construction to completion, did have an idea that proved to be astute. Catholics from specific countries around the world were invited to contribute to the project in honor of the pope. Each country that actualized the monetary benefaction, were to have its own chapel. Many countries took part in this process and the construction debts were exculpated quickly.

Moving along each side of the church, I admired these chapels dedicated to the countries of Brazil, Portugal, Bavaria, Poland, Canada, England, United States, Spain, France, Italy, Holland, Belgium, Ireland and Argentina. Each unique and resplendent in the own right, it was quite moving to know that each country cared about a small church in another country, and their pope, to assist it in its realization.

While San Gioacchino may not be the oldest or the most visited church in Rome, it may hold the title of one that achieved a most impossible dream. A true gift.

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San Gioacchino in Prati

  • http://www.sangioacchino.org
  • Address: Pompeo Magno, 25, 00192 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours: 0800-2000 (unverified)
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Lepanto (Line A)

The Fountain Au Natural

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Dozing on the way to my hotel, I suddenly sat up, aware that the bus was making a series of turns. My inner navigation, sensing that we were almost to my hotel, had alerted me to the area, that no matter how many times I visit, I never tire of seeing on my arrival into Rome.

Passing by the Vatican’s towering walls and the line snaking around its perimeter, our bus made its way through the busy streets, finally taking a final turn. I eyed the vendors displaying their wares on the street corners, the summer sale signs in the clothing stores, the gelato shops…and then, I noticed something I had never noticed before.

A fountain.

Not so unusual, you say? If you’ve been to Rome before, you would be aware that fountains are a dime a dozen, existing in the city for over two-thousand years. They decorate street corners, piazzas and buildings. Originally fed by nine aqueducts to provide drinking water and enhancement, they are part of the overall Italian art and architectural experience.

But this one…just down the street from my hotel….looked a little lonely and a little bit dilapidated, with no running water. Yet, there was something about it that was extremely intriguing, but we drove by a little too quickly. Since it wasn’t far, I decided that I would walk that way later in the afternoon and take a closer look.

In the circular Piazza dei Quiriti, the fountain that I had spied…was still there…and waiting for me…but now I knew a little bit more about its history.

Before I had taken my nap, I had learned (thanks to Google!) that this small fountain was one of five erected in Rome during the 1920s to embellish the city. A competition was held by the municipality and the winner, Attilio Selva, gave them not only what they wanted but also a bit of controversy.

Severely criticized not only for its naked female figures and the positions in which they were situated, but also because it sat in the shadow of the church of San Gioacchino in Prati. Because of the controversy it aroused, the inauguration was postponed for over a year. During that time, however, the new Fascist government, preferring the exhibition of naked bodies, as evidenced by the adornment of au natural images on various buildings, caused the disputation to be soon forgotten.

Except to those enroute to San Gioacchino in Prati and of course, the curiosity seekers.

And me.

The curiosity seeker, enroute to San Gioacchino.

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Fontana Delle Cariatidi

  • Address: Piazza dei Quiriti, 00192 Roma, RM Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Bus, 180F, 30, 32, 70, 81. Train, FC3, FL3, FL5. Metro, Line A.

Not Taking Art For Granted

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Exploration of Chicago’s Grant Park is something that every tourist in Chicago undertakes at some point during their visit.

Me included!

Filled with important sculptural works and wide-open spaces, it is where Chicagoans head to enjoy the great outdoors.

My first full day in the Windy City was a beautiful one! The sun was shining, the sky was blue, and it was definitely not windy! My husband and I decided to head to Grant Park to see the many landmarks that dot the landscape and evoke fervor from its visitors.

Knowing there were many things to see and so many access points to the park, we decided to simply work our way from north to south. Entering from Maggie Daley Park, we walked through the Cancer Survivor’s Garden, with its open metal pavilion flanked by two forty-foot-tall granite columns, set up to greet visitors and invite them to stroll through its beautifully landscaped paths. This garden has spectacular views of Lake Michigan and was designed to be a celebration of life and hope for the survivors and those afflicted with cancer. It is a popular location for weddings and other special events and attracts those interested in ice skating during the winter, to its rink, and children seeking out a place to let off steam, year round, in its well-equipped playground.

To the west, we spied one of the city’s most iconic landmarks…the Cloud Gate in Millennium Park. A piece of fascinating sculpture, affectionately known as “The Bean”, it allows views of the city from its many mirrored sides. The stainless steel piece of artwork was designed by British artist Sir Anish Kapoor and installed in 2004. It is one of the most famous symbols of the city and definitely one of the most photographed.

The Cloud Gate

Not far away, we spied the Crown Fountain through the tree line. Another of the city’s interesting sculptural pieces, it was designed by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa and consists of two 50-foot glass block towers at the end of a shallow reflecting pool. The towers project video images of Chicago citizens with water flowing through an outlet in the proximity of their mouths. It is a great place for cooling off in the hottest months of the year!

The Crown Fountain

Continuing our walk south, we encountered the Clarence F. Buckingham Fountain, one of the park’s art pieces that I was most excited to see. One of the world’s largest fountains, dedicated in 1927, it was inspired by the Latona Fountain at the Palace of Versailles, which I had seen on one of my visits to France. Sadly, it was not operating. Not sure if it was the time of the year or if it was shut off due to Covid, it was a huge disappointment. We were, however, able to see some of the smaller fountains that surround the Buckingham Fountain…Fisher Boy, Crane Girl, Turtle Boy and Dove Girl…one pair north and one pair south. These fountains were designed by Leonard Crunelle and were originally part of an exhibit at Humboldt Park. In 1964, they were installed in their current location.

Buckingham Fountain
Clockwise from top left, Fisher Boy, Crane Girl, Turtle Boy, Dove Girl

Heading west to Congress Plaza, we encountered the Equestrian Indians, two bronze equestrian sculptures which act as gatekeepers to the park. Known as The Bowman and The Spearman, they were created in Zagreb by Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović and installed in 1928.

The Bowman and The Spearman

Walking through the Formal Gardens to the southernmost end of the park, we finally ended up at the sculptural group that I most wanted to see, The Agora. Consisting of 106 headless figures, these bronze, steel and iron effigies, designed by Magdalena Abakanowicz, was installed in 2006. The figures are posed as if walking in multiple directions or standing still and seemingly invite visitors to pose with them (which I did, of course). In ancient Greece, the Agora was the central meeting place in its villages and cities…this final piece is the perfect addition to Grant Park. As the ancient Agora attracted people to meet, visit and learn, so does this newest addition to the park.

The Agora
The Agora

Grabbing rental bikes for our exit, we finally had the opportunity to experience the wind in our hair! As we rode past these amazing works of art again, seeing them in a much different light, we realized that although there are so many things to see in Chicago, these ones that people walk past every day, are not ones to be taken for granted!

Other Chicago locations: Navy Pier
Other art and architecture in Chicago

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Maggie Daley Park

The Cloud Gate

  • Address: 201 E. Randolph Street, Chicago, Illinois 60602
  • Hours: daily, 0600-2300
  • Admission: free

Crown Fountain

  • Address: 201 E. Randolph Street, Chicago, Illinois 60601
  • Hours: daily, 0600-2300
  • Admission: free

Clarence F. Buckingham Fountain

The Bowman and The Spearman

  • Address: S. Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois 60605
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

The Agora

Chi-Town Chinatown

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My first visit to a Chinatown was in San Francisco as a new flight attendant. Although I had never been to China, in my mind this was pretty close to what I expected it to look like. Hours of my layovers were spent wandering the streets and shops, hoping one day to see the real thing when I would be senior enough to hold those trips.

Over the years, I have traveled the world and there have been multiple visits to Chinatowns throughout…New York, Washington, D.C., Milan, London, Havana, Manchester, Amsterdam…each unique in their own right, but all brimming with restaurants offering mouthwatering delicacies, shops selling everything from antiquities to dime-store trinkets and streets filled with Chinese architecture, signs and lanterns. I still love spending time in these neighborhoods and continue to seek them out whenever possible.

A friend’s retirement party brought me to Chicago one weekend this past spring. Though I had been through O’Hare airport many years ago, I had never been to the downtown area. Eager to see its highlights, I set out early. I had discovered that Chicago had a unique Chinatown and I headed in that direction with a stop at the Shedd Aquarium along the way. It was a cold and drizzly day and I huddled against the brisk wind blowing in from the lake, making my way through Grant Park, only to find an extensive line at the aquarium and a sign stating that reservations were required and no longer available.

John G. Shedd Aquarium
John G. Shedd Aquarium

Despite this disappointment, I pushed on and continued my walk along the harbor, passing Soldier Field and inspecting the bronze statues of Hall of Famers Walter Payton and team founder/former coach George Halas at the south entrance. It would have been interesting to take a tour of the Chicago Bears’ home field or take in a game, if it had been football season, but I really wanted to experience Chi-Town’s Chinatown.

Soldier Field
Statues of Chicago Bear’s Hall of Famers Walter Payton and George Halas

First encountering the crimson-hued entrance to Ping Tom Memorial Park with its beautiful Chinese-style pavilion, I then spied the Chinatown gateway at the intersection of S. Wentworth Avenue and Cermak Road. The colorful gate, a prominent display at most Chinatowns entrances, was constructed in 1975 and meant to act as a symbol of unity for the Chinese. As I walked beneath this massive structure, designed by Peter Fung, I was struck by the simplicity of its design and rich-toned hues that reflected its origins.

Ping Tom Memorial
Chinese-Style Pavilion in Ping Tom Park
Chicago’s Chinatown

Chicago’s Chinatown was first established in 1869 when immigrants began to arrive from San Francisco with the completion of the First Transcontinental Railroad. With no work to be found after the railroad’s opportunities were exhausted, the Chinese fled to other areas within the United States which were more accessible than the discriminative west coast. By the late 1800s, a large portion of the city’s Chinese residents had settled in the area which is now Chinatown and after the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, more arrived in droves.

Butcher shops, restaurants, gambling houses, Christian mission houses, Chinese laundries and grocery stores were prevalent in the area and Chicagoans, welcomed the new arrivals and patronized their businesses. In fact, frequenting the chop suey restaurants became extremely popular and more restaurants continued to open.

As expected, I found Wentworth Avenue to be replete with authentic Chinese restaurants, shops, buildings topped with pagodas, lion statues, mosaics and intriguing architecture. Although it is one of Chicago’s smallest neighborhoods, it was filled with huge sights and sounds!

Because I was obligated to meet my party for a meal later, taking the opportunity to enjoy a fare of dim-sum or noodles wasn’t in the cards for me, however, I stopped in to The Seven Treasures Cantonese Restaurant for a fresh coconut drink. Even though it was cold out, it was refreshing and reminded me of the drinks I once purchased from street vendors in Cambodia!

Before heading back to the metro, I wanted to see two of Chicago’s Chinatown’s important works of art. In Chinatown Square, I examined the two-story shopping center decorated with twelve sculptures of the Chinese zodiac and the mural “Chinese in America” which describes the history of Chinese immigrants in the U.S. and the Chinese cultural beliefs. 100,000 individually cut pieces of hand-painted glass from China were used to create this spectacular mural. Across the road and on my way to the metro station, I encountered the prominent Nine Dragon Wall. Modeled after the wall in Beihai Park in Beijing, it is made up of glazed tile from China and replicates the large dragons and over 500 smaller dragons painted in red, gold and blue signifying the Chinese focus on good fortune. It is only one of three such replicas outside of China.

Chinatown Square
Nine Dragon Wall

Finally, time to head back to my hotel, I reluctantly boarded the train at the Cermak-Chinatown metro station. My time in Chi-Town’s Chinatown, was brief, yet an enlightening and entertaining experience. Much like my experiences in San Francisco many times over the years, I reveled in the art, architecture and cuisine. But as much as I enjoyed Chi-Town’s Chinatown and many others, I still found myself wishing that it could have been the real thing.

One day.

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Chinatown

Chinatown Square

Nine Dragon Wall

  • Address: 158 W. Cermak Road, Chicago, Illinois 60616
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

The Cathedral of the Musical City

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Sometimes I feel like I don’t find churches, they find me!

I wasn’t looking to visit a church while in downtown Austin…I just happened to stumble upon one of the most historic ones in the state.

Built in the late 1800s, St. Mary’s Cathedral began as a small stone church named St. Patrick’s. As the parish continued to grow, the decision was made to build a new church. With both an Irish and German congregation, it was determined that a patron saint that reflected both heritages was needed, and St. Mary was chosen. In 1872, when Austin was made the state capital of Texas, the first cornerstone was laid, and the church completed two years later. St. Mary’s was deemed a cathedral in 1948.

The Gothic exterior seemed out of place amongst Austin’s towering skyscrapers, yet it was mesmerizing with its Gothic revival towers and spires which were added in 1907. Inside the tower, the cathedral’s bell is one of the largest in the state of Texas.

As I entered the cathedral, I was quite surprised to find a stunning interior, highlighted by spindled beams and a barrel-vaulted ceiling. Towering stained glassed windows lined each side of the church and tree-like columns were topped with foliage carved capitals. As I made my way toward the altar, I gazed upward at the bright blue dome painted with stars and flanked by two altars dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and St. Joseph and as I turned to face the rear of the church, I was mesmerized by the spectacular large rose window in the front façade.

In a city of known for its music, St. Mary’s is the site of a Christmas concert that highlights its Irish heritage. Traditional Irish and Scottish music is performed by acclaimed artists and the concert is a sellout each year.

So, when you visit Austin, not only can you experience music throughout the city, you can hear it at St. Mary’s and experience its history and architecture at the same time.

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St. Mary’s Cathedral

  • https://smcaustin.org/
  • Address: 203 E 10th St203 E 10th St, Austin, Texas 78701
  • Hours: daily, 0800-1800. Daily mass schedule, Monday-Friday, 0630, Monday-Saturday, 1205. Weekend masses, Saturday, 1730 and Sunday, 0730 (Latin), 0930 (Live streamed), 1200, 1345 (Spanish, live streamed), 1530 (Latin, live streamed), 1730.
  • Admission: free

Do The Sloo

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While visiting a friend who had recently relocated to Southwest Florida, she mentioned that she had not seen one alligator since she had been there.

Now, to some people, that might not be such a bad thing, but everyone knows that alligators outnumber people in many parts of the state, so it was quite surprising that she had not seen even one.

Maybe she wasn’t looking in the right places?

During a spring trip to Fort Myers, I was looking for something to occupy my morning. Something that would give me a bit of exercise and yet, give me something to write about. After a few internet searches and scouring my trusty Google Maps, I found that “something” just off of Six Mile Cypress Parkway.

The Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve (pronounced sloo) is a wetland ecosystem comprised of over 3,500 acres with a boardwalk trail, Interpretive Center and amphitheater. This slough catches and slowly filters rainwater which then makes its way to Estero Bay and provides a habitat for fish, alligators and birds. This slice of nature, conveniently located only `15 minutes from downtown Fort Myers, offers visitors the opportunity to view wildlife from an elevated boardwalk snaking through the preserve.

Heading out early that morning, I secured a place to park in the already crowded lot, tightened the laces on my walking shoes and prepared for a long walk…

Parking lot sculpture

What I soon discovered was that the name is a little misleading. Named for the highway that it is located off of, Six Mile Cypress Parkway, I thought that it meant that I was going to find six miles of boardwalk. Silly me. After studying the map at the entrance, I learned that the boardwalk was only 1.2 miles long. Nevertheless, I was interested in what I might find, and the regulations sign informed me (see number 4) that jogging, and power walking are not permitted on the boardwalk. So much for my exercise regimen that day…

Since I am originally from the great state of Louisiana, I am accustomed to seeing moss-covered cypress trees, muddy water, wading birds and even the occasional alligator, so this was nothing new for me. However, one never knows what Mother Nature might throw out at them and there is something unique in every swamp setting. Definitely a lot of beauty would be here in the preserve, you just need to know where to look and what to look for.

The boardwalk was well maintained and actually quite busy for a weekday morning. As I made my way around, I discovered shelters offering information on the slough and its residents, photo blinds and seating areas throughout, making it easy to relax and enjoy (and capture) the scenery. Immediately, I noticed a group of white birds wading in the murky waters, hunting for their breakfast among the hundreds of cypress knees. Admiring the flora and fauna, I slowly made my way from pond to pond…Pop Ash, Otter, Wood Duck…hoping to catch a glimpse of some of their inhabitants, but it wasn’t until I reach the Gator Lakes that I actually saw some movement.

Eyes and ridged back barely visible amongst the lily pads, a small gator slowly made his way around the lake, possibly hoping for his own meal. A little further away, I noticed another as well as a few turtles sunning themselves on a log. Amusing as it was for me to listen to some of the other visitors gasping at this tiny four-foot gator, I had to remind myself that while I had grown up seeing monster-sized alligators while we fished in the backwaters of Louisiana, this may have been some visitor’s first time seeing one in the wild.

My time in the preserve was rather short, as 1.2 miles doesn’t require a lot of time to cover, even with photo stops and time for nature spotting, but it provided a nice and inexpensive outing. Lee County residents should be commended for petitioning to raise their own taxes back in 1976 to raise the funds to protect the slough as a preserve and provide it free of charge for visitors. Another similar sanctuary in nearby Naples, a little larger in size, is owned by the Audubon Society, but charges a heft entry fee.

Take my advice, enjoy what the residents worked hard to preserve and spend some time in Lee County. As I told my friend, “Go to the Slough Preserve and find your gator! Do the Slough (Sloo)!”

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Six Mile Cypress Slough Preserve

  • https://www.sloughpreserve.org
  • Address:  7751 Penzance Blvd, Fort Myers, Florida 33966-0600
  • Hours: Dawn to Dusk, daily. Interpretive Center: Open from 1000-1600, Tuesday through Sunday.
  • Admission: free
  • Parking: $1.00 per hour, maximum $5.00 per day, payable at pay stations in the lot. Lee Country Annual Parking Stickers are accepted at this location.