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Saturday afternoons were for westerns.
Bonanza (1959 to 1973), Gunsmoke (1955-1975) and Rawhide (1959-1966), were some of my favorites. They were preceded by countless of other popular movies and series, set during a time where cowboys, Indians, outlaws and sheriffs ruled the land.
When Hollywood began searching for a “living, breathing movie set”, 32,000 acres in the California desert near Palm Springs was deemed the perfect location. Investors, including Roy Rogers, Dale Evans, Dick Curtis and Bud Abbott, incorporated the land which became known as Pioneertown.
The town, easily accessible from Los Angeles, served as a filming location, vacation destination and residence for those working in the entertainment industry. The structures built on Mane Street were fully functional and included a grocery store, saloon, restaurant, motel, beauty shop, bowling center and shooting gallery. More than fifty films and serials were filmed in Pioneertown during the 1940s and 1950s, including the popular Gene Autry Show, the Cisco Kid television series (1950-1956), Annie Oakley television series (1954-1957) and The Adventures of Judge Roy Bean (1955-1956) and it wasn’t uncommon for two separate movies to be shooting on opposite sides of the street.
Being such a short distance from Palm Springs, I decided to make the drive to see what Pioneertown was all about in a day and age when westerns are no longer all the rage. Though I anticipated some authentic-looking buildings, much like the few I had encountered while in the small towns of South Dakota, I was really surprised by the number of buildings which comprised the town and its credibility.
As I arrived a bit early in the morning, I discovered that I was one of only three people wandering the dusty main street, Mane Street. Beginning in the Film Museum and Trading Post, I marveled at the collection of memorabilia on display and watched the film which narrated the story of this historic town.
Walking west on the north side of the street, I photographed and inspected each of the buildings and businesses that occupied their spaces…the General Mercantile and its souvenirs, the Pottery and its artwork and the Chapel, which to my dismay, was locked. There were weathered wagons, rusty mine cars and remnants of old machinery littering the street as well as a few artful pieces.
To say that the residents of Pioneertown have a bit of humor is an understatement. Barrel cactuses wearing sunglasses and quirky signage was prominent, but they really fooled me near the Mercantile. My curiosity got the best of me as I saw a barrel, covered with mesh wire and topped with the sign, “Warning! Baby Rattlers”. I half-expected to see small snakes slithering around the bottom, but that seemed like such a hazard…instead, the bottom was lined with baby rattles…yes, the kind baby’s like to shake!!!
As I approached the Bath House and Hotel, I stepped onto the boardwalk, I and passed the Bank and the Livery. Many buildings were inaccessible as they were now private residences. At the end of Mane Street, I stopped to inspect the town’s Ok Corral, the Sheriff’s Office and the U.S. Post Office, said to be the most photographed branch in the United States.
I made my way back up the south side of the street, I noticed that more visitors were making their way amongst the buildings. Although still eerily quiet, it must have been quite the site during its prime to see horses hitched to their posts and gunslingers ready for duel…of course with cameras recording!
Approaching the Hay and Feed Store (53585 Mane Street), I learned that this was the location of the current sound stage. Today, though not in the capacity as it was started, the town still functions as a production set where movies, independent films, music videos and commercials are filmed quite regularly. Some of the more familiar titles you might recognize are Ice Cube’s I Rep That West Music video (2010), Kenny Roger’s The Gambler (2014), Cyndi Lauper’s Funnel of Love music video (2016) and Ingrid Goes West (2017), which I had actually seen!
Finally, I completed my walk and headed to the Pappy + Harriet’s Grill for a bite to eat. Sadly, I was visiting on a day in which it was closed, but there was still a few more things to see. The Wild West and Stunt Show arena was closed but I was able to peek through the fence to see its primitive hay bale seats and old west architectural set. A little further, I spotted the Pioneertown Motel…the perfect spot to spend to live out my cowgirl fantasy…horseback riding by day, marshmallows by the campfire and a short stumble home from the Red Dog Saloon!
Though the original intent of Pioneertown is much different than what it has evolved into, it is now a destination where regular folk can live out their cowboy fantasies in the Wild, Wild West…whether for the day, the night, or as the residents do…for a lifetime!
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Pioneertown
- https://visitpioneertown.com/
- Address: 53626 Mane St, Pioneertown, California, USA 92268
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free
- Getting There: From downtown Palm Springs. Head north on Indian Canyon Drive past Interstate 10. Turn right onto CA-62 E and continue for 13 miles. Turn right onto Pioneertown Road and drive for 4.4 miles. Pioneertown will be on the right with parking behind Pappy + Harriet’s Grill.