Helping Hands

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There’s something new and exciting on the Grand Canal in Venice!

An art installation by Lorenzo Quinn is gracing the waters at the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel.

Immense hands emerge from the Venetian waters and appear to support the hotel.  Entitled Support, the sculpture highlights the threat faced by the city due to global warming and rising sea levels.

An inspiring and breathtaking sculpture, it is best viewed from across the Grand Canal at the Mercati di Rialto (Seafood Market) although an alternate view can be garnered from taking the traghetto (gondola ferry) adjacent to the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel.  If you are lucky (like we were) you may have the traghetto all to yourself, however, your view may be hampered if the gondola is filled with other tourists.  If you do not decide to take the traghetto, definitely take one of the side streets next to the hotel and walk out onone of the piers or Vaporetto stops for excellent side views.  The minute details of the sculpture are incredible!

 The installation was unveiled on May 13 for the 57th International Art Exhibition of the Venice Biennale and will remain on display until November 26.

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Support at the Ca’ Sagredo Hotel

  • http://www.casagredohotel.com/
  • Address:  Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99, 30121 Venezia, Italy
  • Hours:  always viewable and lighted by spotlight at night
  • Admission:  free
  • Traghetto Ca’D’Oro Pescaria, 2€ per person

The Only One

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Rome has many basilicas.

Amsterdam…only one.

Arriving in the Dutch capital via Amsterdam Central Station, one of the first landmarks you spy is the Basilica of St. Nicholas.  Located to the left, in the Old Town district, its two towers mark the skyline.

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Having always noticed this beautiful building, it was my desire to visit one day.  Never quite having the time or being able to arrive before closing, due to its restrictive schedule, I realized that its door were open one afternoon, while passing nearby.

Built over 129 years ago, the city’s main Catholic church, was designed by architect, Adrianus Bleijs and was originally called St. Nicholas Inside the Walls as it sat within the oldest part of the Amsterdam defense works.  It was elevated to basilica in 2012, during its 125th year of existence, during a celebration of Solemn Vespers.

Combining Neo-Baroque and Neo-Renaissance styles, the church’s exterior is easily recognizable with its two identical towers on either side of the ornate stained glass rose window.  A domed baroque octagonal tower is adorned with a large cross.  Above the rose window, a statue of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of Amsterdam and seafarers, can be spotted.

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The basilica’s mixture of styles is carried on within the recently renovated church.  Designed with a three-aisled layout the large baroque dome sits above the crossing.

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Two chapels alongside the apse and the nave are devoted to Mary and Joseph and on both sides of the church and high above the altar, sits the crown of Maximilian I, a symbol seen throughout Amsterdam.

Netherlands Amsterdam St Nicholas Madonna and Child

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Take the time to inspect the beautiful religious murals that line the walls throughout the church, most importantly the 14 Stations of the Cross by Jan Dunselman which were painted from 1891 to 1898.  Interestingly, Dunselman used the faces of parishioners as his models preserving their likenesses for future parishioners and relatives to appreciate.  Other paintings commemorate the Miracle of Amsterdam and the Martyrs of Gorkum, 19 Catholic figures who were hanged in 1572.

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IMG_6286The pulpit, an elaborately designed piece by Pierre Elysee van den Bossche highlights the left of the structure as well as the 19th century Sauer organ at the rear of the church.  The German organ was built in 1889 and attracts large numbers of world renowned organists from around the world during the International Organ Concert Series every summer.  These musicians treasure the opportunity to not only enjoy the music from this magnificent instrument, but to perform on it as well.

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One last thing to note…when leaving the church, take look above you before crossing through the doorway.  A beautiful little wooden sailboat hangs silently, reminding us of Amsterdam’s seafaring ancestry and the basilica’s patron saint.IMG_6280

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St. Nicholas Basilica

  • http://www.nicolaas-parochie.nl/
  • Address:  Prins Hendrikkade 73, 1012 AD Amsterdam
  • Hours:  Monday, 1200-1500, Tuesday-Friday, 1100-1600, Saturday, 1200-1500 and 1630-1745, Sunday 0945-1400 and 1630-1730
  • Admission:  Free
  • Mass Schedule:  Sunday, 1030, High Mass, 1300 High Mass (Spanish), 1700 Gregorian Vespers (Latin), Monday-Saturday, 1230 Mass, (Tuesday-English, Friday-Spanish), Thursday, 1800, Vespers and Mass, Saturday, 1700, Choral Evensong, English

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Taking It To the Bank

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One night, while checking the recordings on my DVR, I noticed a title, Banksy Does New York.  Hmmm…spinoff of Debbie Does Dallas?

Discovering that my children were the culprits, they were questioned…who the heck was Banksy?

A world renowned contemporary artist, Banksy got his start spraying graffiti on the streets of Bristol, England.  Using a distinctive stenciling technique and dark humor, he has developed a cult-like following throughout the world.  His pieces, pop up randomly, sell for thousands of dollars and are amassed by well-known art collectors.

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But who is Banksy? Is he young or old?  Is he Caucasian or of African or Chinese descent?  He is short?  Is he tall?

Truth is…no one really knows.  Despite his popularity, Banksy has managed to remain anonymous.

IMG_6274Watching Banksy Does New York with my children, I was fascinated.  People scrutinize the internet in order to find his pieces, located on walls, streets, bridges and self-built prop pieces in cities throughout the world, before they are removed or defaced.  Some are just quick stencils on the sides of buildings.  Some have moving parts or actually move through the city, but most have strong political and social statements and almost all are quite humorous.

Imagine my delight to find that Banksy’s exhibit, Laugh Now, was being held at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Amsterdam while I was visiting.  No following websites or searching the streets to see a real authentic Banksy!  It was across town at MOCO for the price of admission.

Arriving at the museum, tickets in hand, we managed to avoid the lines that formed later in the day, thus proving what a major draw Banksy is.  The museum, located inside Villa Alsberg, a townhouse dating back to 1904, is the perfect yang to Banksy’s ying..the old meets the new.

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IMG_6263The displays were split between the upper and lower floors of the museum, and was combined with an exhibit on Salvador Dali on the basement floor.  Starting on the top floor, first stopping to admire his piece, Forgive Us For Our Trespassing on the staircase landing, we made our way through each of the themed rooms, Anti-capitalism, Laugh Now, Weaponry, There Is Always Hope and CCTV highlighting some of his classics like Laugh Now and Girl with Balloon.

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The entrance floor showcased some rescued pieces from the rubble of demolished buildings and other sculptural pieces (Rat-With-Umbrella, Cardinal Sin) as well as one of his famous Mona Lisa pieces and a huge canvas of the famous painting Beanfield which has not been displayed anywhere since 2009.

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Finally, moving on to the basement level, we encountered a final, large-scale Banksy…

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…as well as a small room with a film documenting his work around the world.

The Salvadore Dali exhibit was also very interesting with many paintings and his famous Mae West Lips Sofa, designed in 1937 and inspired by the lips of actress Mae West.  A large-scale melting clock is also on display…a tribute to his most famous painting, The Persistence of Memory.

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A gift shop is also located on the lower lever of MOCO selling t-shirts, books and other Banksy and Dali memorabilia.

If taking to the streets in search of a real Banksy is not in the cards for you, make sure to check out one of his exhibitions throughout the world.  Definitely worth seeking if you are a fan of graffiti art (like I am) and much easier than scouring the internet and walking through back alleys!  But, if the hunt is for you and you are in the Los Angeles or London, try and find some pieces still on the streets.

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF&msa=0&msid=206833562822512571407.00049d25df7020948a997  http://blog.saatchigallery.com/finding-banksy-london

Let me know if you find any!

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Banksy Exhibition at the Amsterdam Museum of Contemporary Art

  • https://www.mocomuseum.com/banksy-amsterdam
  • Address:  Museumplein, Honthorststraat 20, 1071 Amsterdam
  • Hours:  1000-1800, daily through March 29, 2017
  • Admission:  Adults, 12.50€, Students, 10€, Under 16, 7.50€
  • Getting There:  The Moco Museum is situated on the Museumplein, opposite of the Rijksmuseum and next to the Van Gogh Museum.  From Amsterdam Central Station, take Tram 2 (direction Nieuw Sloten), Tram 5 (direction Amstelveen Binnenhof), stop Van Baerlestraat, Bus 170 (direction Uithoorn, Amstelplein) or Bus 172 (direction Kudelstaart), stops Hobbemastraat or Museumplein.  From train station Amsterdam Amstel, take Tram 12 (direction Station Sloterdijk), stop Van Baerlestraat.  From train station Amsterdam Zuid WTC, take Tram 5 (direction Centraal Station), stop Van Baerlestraat
  • About the Artist:  http://www.banksy.co.uk/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Czech-ing Out the Sights

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Walking through the city of Prague, it is easy to be dumbfounded by its beauty.  I have always been almost breathless looking out over the red rooftops and the amazing architecture at every corner, not knowing quite where to point my camera first.

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There are many things to see and do while touring the city.  During my visit with my son, I was anxious to show him some of the quaint attractions that I have grown to love in the city.

Exiting the Prague Castle’s main entrance, we walked through the Castle District (Hradcany) down to the west side of the Charles Bridge.  The first thing on our agenda was the John Lennon Wall.

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Once a regular wall, young Czechs decided to make it their slate for recording grievances during the communist regime of Gustáv Husák.  Eventually, this led to a clash between hundreds of students and police on the nearby Charles Bridge.  The movement these students followed was described ironically as “Lennonism”.

imageJohn Lennon, a hero to the youth, produced songs that praised freedom that did not exist in the communistic country.  Western pop songs were banned by Communist authorities and some musicians were jailed for playing them.  When Lennon was murdered in 1980, his picture was painted on the wall with graffiti defying the authorities.  The threat of prison didn’t stop people from sneaking to the location during the dark of night to inscribe graffiti in the form of Beatles lyrics and odes to Lennon.  Eventually, they returned to write their own feelings and dreams on the wall.

The original portrait of Lennon remains, but buried under many layers of new paint.  At one time, the wall was repainted by authorities, but after a day passed, it was full of poems and flowers.  On November 17, 2014, on the 25th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution, the wall was painted over completely with white paint by a group of art students, leaving only the text, “wall is over” a play on Lennon’s song, “War is Over”.  Today, the wall, owned by the Knights of Malta, changes constantly.  On the day that we were there, people were selling paint and paintbrushes.  Many young tourists were busy decorating portions of the wall between the dozens of other tourists posing for pictures.

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After a couple of quick pics, we moved on.  Our next quick stop was at the Kampa waterwheel near the Lennon Wall.  Always a favorite of mine, I love to stop here and watch the wheel turn in the Certovka river across from a small restaurant, Velkoprevorsky Mlyn.  The restaurant has always been a source of fascination for me with its romantic small balcony hanging out over the river and two small tables.  On impulse, I ran into the restaurant and made a reservation for the following night for my son and I, something I have always desired to do.

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imageWe were now getting a bit hungry…it was time for a snack…Trdelník.  The sweet pastry, made from rolled dough, wrapped around a stick and grilled, then topped with sugar and walnut mix, is something anyone visiting Prague should have…at least once!  There is a great little place on the end of the right side of the Charles Bridge in the Lesser Town.  You can watch the skilled craftsmen roll the dough, wrap it around the round metal forms and bake it on the rotating rollers.

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imageWhile devouring our Trdelnik, we ducked under the bridge and inspected the many “locks of love” that hang from the gates that line the canal.  These locks are padlocks which couples secure to a public object, most often a bridge, to symbolize their love.  Once the lock is fastened, the key is thrown away into the body of water to symbolize their unbreakable love.  Though not as plentiful as what can be found on the Pont des Arts Bridge in Paris, there are many here and it has become quite a problem, as in other cities, as it damages the structure to which it is fastened.

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As we continued our journey through the city, we stopped every so often to admire the many street performers that secure prime spots on street corners and in the Old Town Square.  While everyone loves a good musician, there were some interesting acts that were quite mesmerizing.  I have to admit, it took me a while to understand the floating man!

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Later that evening, we headed toward one of my favorite spots to have a drink…the rooftop terrace at the U Prince hotel.  When you enter the U Prince hotel, inform the hostess that you would like to go up to the terrace and she will direct you to the elevator.  After exiting the elevator, a few more steps will lead you to another hostess who will seat you at the Terasa U Prince.  Expect higher prices than other eateries or bars, but it is most definitely a trade off for the beautiful view of Old Town!

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Finally, to cap off the evening, we grabbed some gelato right outside of the U Prince and decided to watch the Astronomical Clock put on its hourly show one more time!  A great way to end a busy but wonderful day!

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Lennon Wall

  • Address:  Velkopřevorské náměstí, 100 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
  • Admission:  Free
  • Hours:  Open continually
  • How to Get There:  From metro station Malostranska (green line A) take trams no. 12, 20, 22, 23. The nearest tram stops to Velkoprevorske namesti are either Malostranske namesti or Hellichova.

Velkoprevorsky Mlyn Restaurant

Terasa U Prince

  • https://www.terasauprince.com/terrace
  • Address:  Terasa U Prince, Staroměstské náměstí 29, Praha 1, 110 00, Czech Republic
  • Hours:  1100-2330, daily
  • How To Get There:  Old Town, walking from center of square, past the Astrological Clock (on right) towards the river, the Hotel U Prince is on the left.

Astronomical Clock

  • http://www.staromestskaradnicepraha.cz/en/astronomical-clock/
  • Address:  Staroměstské nám. 1, 110 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
  • Hours:  Visit the Tower, Monday, 1100-2200, Tuesday-Sunday, 0900-2200
  • Admission:  Tower, Adults, 130 CZK, Children, ages 6-15, Students under 26, Senior over 65, 80 CZK, Children, ages 4-6, 30 CZK, Family admission (2 adults, 4 children, up to age 15), 280 CZK
  • How To Get There:  Old Town center

 

 

Art in Accra

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Walking up Barnes Road in Accra, I was seeking out the National Museum of Ghana.

Not sure which corner it was located at the intersection of Barnes and Liberia Roads, I sought the assistance of a local Ghanaian man.  Pointing me to the northwest corner of the block, he showed me the building that I should go to.

Walking up to the building, I noticed that the man had directed me to the Museum of Science and Technology.  Not sure what to do, I decided to enter the building so that I could ask for more directions.

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The gentleman seated at the door, was very welcoming but informed me that the National Museum of Ghana was presently closed for much needed repairs.  He did let me know that the Museum of Science and Technology was hosting an art exhibit entitled “Cornfields in Accra” and that I was welcome to walk around, check it out and then give them my opinion.

With nothing else on my agenda, I decided Why not?
imageHaving been an Interior Architecture student in college, I am no stranger to art projects and exhibits, but walking around the ground floor, I was a bit confused.  The only piece that seemed like an art piece was the seashell sculpture in the center of the room which rose up from the floor into the open area on the second floor.  Every other piece seemed to be piles of things…hats, old electronics and a record player continually playing the same sound bite over and over.  There was a series of three paintings on the wall that were interesting, but I was not sure how these all related to each other or a theme.

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Scanning the brochure that had been handed to me when I entered the building, I learned that the exhibit was entitled Cornfields in Accra, based on the title from Ghanaian writer Ama Ata Aidoo’s poem.  Cornfields in Accra is the sequel to The Gown Must Go To Town, the exhibition from last year.  The exhibition showcases work by a choice selection of artists from the 2016 graduation class, as well as guest artists comprising alumni, teaching assistants and collaborating exhibitors from the engineering and life sciences departments of the University.

Further scanning the brochure, I learned a bit more.

“The works span contemporary art and allied practices which anticipate emergent formats, ideas and configurations of emancipated futures. The artists are not only concerned with human life but also contemplate other possibilities where animals, plants, machines, quanta and micro-organisms become potential platforms and media for reflection, engagement and interaction. This exhibition also honors the memory of Goddy Leye (1965-2011), a Cameroonian conceptual artist whose interventionist practice was very influential for the development of video/media, art film, installation and community-oriented work”.

“Okay.” I thought,  “Maybe this will make sense when I get to the second floor.”

Walking up on of the corner staircases to the second floor, I eagerly glanced around the vast space at the different displays.  Sadly, it seemed to be a bit more of the same…lots more piles of things and some hanging displays.  It seemed as though everyone was given a particular item and was told to “run with it”.
 Balloons dressed with panties…
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Razor blades…
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Weave hair…
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Egg crates…
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Foam…
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VCR tapes…
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Animal bones and horns…
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imageThere were two displays that caught my eye, however.  There were masks made of aluminum and paper and a display of wooden masks on another wall.  With these, I at least understood the craftsmanship involved.
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The only redeeming factor of some of these displays was that I was able to get some interesting photographs.
It was extremely hot within the building and after forty-five minutes, I was quite anxious to make my way back to my hotel and the wonderful infinity pool waiting for me.
After signing the guest book with my comments on the exhibition, I was finally free to exit and begin my return.  Although, I didn’t quite understand the exhibition, I am glad that I was able to see something different in Accra.  It’s not often that I am able to experience any kind of exhibition, much less those in a foreign city, but, I could see the pride in the eyes of the people running the show.  They were anxious to share their work and the work of others.  If giving up a short bit of my day helped out the local students, then definitely, I was happy that I accidentally stumbled upon this exhibit.
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Museum of Science and Technology
  • http://www.ghanamuseums.org/science-tech-museum.php
  • Address:  Liberia Road, Accra
  • Hours:  0900-1630, daily
  • Admission:  Cornfields in Accra exhibit, free.  Regular exhibits, adult foreigners, GH¢ 10.00, Ghanaian adults GH¢ 2.00, Ghanaian students GH¢  .20-1.00, foreign children GH¢ 2.00

Two Statues

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When visiting Copenhagen, there are two statues that you must see.

imageThe first, located on the side of Copenhagen City Hall Square, is the statue of Hans Christian Andersen, the famous Danish writer of plays, travelogues, novels, poems and what he is most remembered for…his fairy tales.

The bronze statue, made by Henry Luckow-Nielsen, was erected in its current spot in 1965 facing H.C. Andersen Boulevard.  The statue, depicts the writer sitting with a book.  Jump up in his lap and pretend that he is reading you one of his stories…The Emperor’s New Clothes, The Ugly Duckling, Thumbelina and the most famous of them all, The Little Mermaid.

And…speaking of the Little Mermaid…

imageLocated on a rock at the water’s edge, this major attraction has drawn thousands of tourists to this area since 1913.  A gift to the city by Carl Jacobsen of Carlsberg and designed by Edvard Eriksen, the statue lies along the Langelinie promenade but is much smaller than one would imagine. Despite its diminutive size, however, it represents the city, in the way that statues in other cities represent those…Statue of Liberty in New York, Manneken Pis in Brussels, Christ the Redeemer in Rio.   On any given day, you can find bus loads of tourists milling about and taking turns having their picture taken with the Mermaid, thus making it the most photographed statue in Denmark, garnering 5 million photos per year.

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Hans Christian Andersen Statue

 

Little Mermaid Statue

 

Where Did Van Gogh?

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Many times I have visited Montmartre in Paris.  On this particular sojourn,  wandering through the winding streets up and around the hill, I learned something interesting.  Van Gogh not only lived in Paris…he lived right there in Montmartre.

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Walking on Rue Lepic, eating my gelato and searching for the Passer Through Walls sculpture, I happened to notice a sign on a building with a bright blue door.  The sign, written in French, stated “In this house, Vincent Van Gogh, lived with his brother Theo from 1886 to 1888.”

At the end of February 1886, Vincent Van Gogh could no longer pay his rent in Antwerp.  Departing Belgium for Paris, he headed to the French capital, which was the center of the art world at the time, neglecting to inform his brother of his impending arrival.  His brother, Theo, an art dealer, had little choice but to take him in, forcing them to share Theo’s small apartment at 25 Rue Victor Massé.  A few months later, the brothers moved nearby to 54 Rue Lepic on the Butte Montmartre.  Neighbors included Edgar Degas who lived at 50 Rue Lepic and Toulouse-Lautrec who lived around the corner.

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Montmartre was a popular place for artists as it was relatively cheap and there were many “open studios” where artists could learn and work.

Van Gogh’s time spent in Paris was a very crucial part of his career.  He abandoned the the dark Dutch and Belgian tones and adopted colorful, luminous hues as he experimented with new styles like Impressionism.
After two years, Van Gogh tired of the hustle and bustle of Paris, moved out of the apartment on Rue Lepic and headed for the southern part of the country.  Arles, France was where he made his home and was what inspired him to paint in the way most people think of him today…sunflowers, starry nights, night cafes…
I wonder who lives at 54 Rue Lepic now?
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Van Gogh’s Apartment
  • Getting there:  Take metro, line 12 (green) to Abbesses stop.  Walk west on Rue de Abbesses until fork in the road.  Take Rue Lepic (at fork) to the right.  54 Lepic is a short walk on the right.

The Passer Through Walls

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

For art lovers, one of the best places to be in the world is in Paris.  The beauty of the city has inspired artists of every type for centuries.

Many people associate the area of Paris, Montmartre, with the artists who paint and display their works there, but I discovered another artist’s work in Montmartre that I certainly had to track down…the “ Passer Through Walls” or Le Passe-Muraille.

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Situated in Place Marcel Aymé, just off of Rue Norvins, this statue is one of the most interesting that I have ever encountered, not only for its uniqueness, but for the story behind it.  The bronze patina sculpture by Jean Marais is of a man that appears to be walking out from the wall in this small square.  Marais, also an actor, created this sculpture in 1989 to pay tribute to Marcel Aymé, a popular French novelist, screenwriter and playwright, who created the character of Mr. Dutilleul, a ministry department clerk who discovers that he has the gift of walking through sold walls.  After enduring the humiliation that his colleagues and superiors subject him to at work, Dutilleul uses his talent to avenge himself.  Using and abusing his powers, one day they abandon him… just as he walks thru a wall, leaving half of his body trapped in the stone.

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Marcel Aymé, buried in the nearby cemetery St. Vincent, spent most of his life in Rue Norvins and set many of his novels in Montmartre.  His publication has inspired many cinematic adaptations, such as the French comedy farce film known as Mr. Peek-a-Boo, by Jean Boyer and the 1959 German film, The Man Who Walked Through the Wall, by Ladislao Vajda.

imageThe statue emerging from the wall is very engaging and its left hand is shiny from all of the tourists who come to help the poor man.  His head, right arm, left leg and left hand come forth from the wall.  Legend has it that late at night many a passerby hear a muffled voice, which is believed to be Dutilleul, calling out from the wall and on some winter nights, the painter Gen Paul serenades the poor prisoner with a song on his guitar.  Nearby on the wall, someone, (who’s maybe been to Amsterdam and visited the Bronze Breast?) has placed a breast and buttocks on the wall near Mr. Dutilleul.  Who knows… maybe it’s to give the poor trapped man company.

Though off the beaten track, walking the winding streets through the lesser known parts of Montmartre, searching for Le Passe-Muraille, makes for a nice departure from the busy crowded areas such as Place du Tertre and the Sacre Coeur.  Be on the lookout for Le Moulin de la Galette, a restaurant located about ½ a block away, located in a windmill.  Even if you do not dine here, it’s certainly worth a short stop for a picture!

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Le Passer Muraille

  • Getting there:  Take the metro, line 12 (green) to Abbesses station.  It is a short walk to the north from there, located on the corner of Rue Norvins and Rue Girardons.

 

 

 

 

My Montmartre

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One of the areas that I absolutely love in Paris, is Montmartre.

Standing at the foot of the 270 stairs which lead to the summit of the hill of Montmartre, the Sacre Coeur presiding at the top always takes my breath away. Much fun can be had browsing the many souvenir shops, stopping for crepes along the way and many a cocktail hour or dinner can be whiled away in the legions of restaurants and bars.

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Sacre Coeur

imageMy favorite part of Montmartre, however, is Place du Tertre.   One of the most visited areas in Paris, it is known for the artists painting and exhibiting their works as well as the area where artistic legends once lived and worked;  Van Gogh, Picasso, Modigliano.  There are many portraitists and caricaturists, however, there are also artists working in a variety of mediums, including pen and ink, oils and watercolors.  Quite a few paintings purchased here grace my walls and a couple of crazy stories remain in my memory.

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Years ago, while browsing the myriad of paintings in the square, I came across an artist selling watercolors depicting Parisian scenes.  Not usually a fan of watercolors, these, however, caught my eye for the deep, bright hues and the modern feel.  Despite the price, I decided that I absolutely loved them and had to have them.  After much debate, I settled on two compositions.  The artist accompanied me to pay for the purchase with my credit card, only I was shocked to hear that my credit card was declined!  Knowing that there should not have been a problem with my card, I reluctantly pulled out another and completed the purchase.

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After arriving home, I stealthily crept upstairs and stashed the duo in my art folder in the back of a closet until a time when I could frame and display them. Not wanting my husband to question me about how many euro I had spent, I planned to pop them out at a later date.  At dinner that night, my husband casually asked, “So what did you buy for $275 in Paris this weekend?”  Shocked into speechlessness, I could not fathom how my husband would have known that I bought anything much less the exact price!  It seems, however, that my husband was doing some grocery shopping at Walmart at the exact same time that I was trying to complete my artistic purchase.  When the attempt to put my purchase through occurred, his purchase at Walmart had just been completed.  Our credit card’s trusty fraud department promptly called him to inquire about my purchase and informed him of the exact amount.  So much for keeping my purchase a secret!  The paintings, however, now secure the perfect spot on my living room wall and every time I glance at them I chuckle and think about how I was BUSTED!

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On another trip, a few years later, I discovered some unique oil paintings of female characters that I knew would look amazing in my dining room.  After purchasing and hauling them back in my suitcase, they have now graced my walls for many years.

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When my middle son turned thirteen, we visited Paris for his birthday.  While walking through Place du Tertre, we stopped to admire an artist’s work. Deciding to purchase a couple of the pieces, I was chatting with the gentleman and discovered that the paintings were actually his wife’s.  Glancing to the right, as we spoke, the works there caught my eye and stunned me into total silence.  They looked like the same type of paintings that hang on my dining room walls.  “Ian”,  I said, regaining my voice and gesturing toward the canvases, “Look at these.  Where have you seen these before?”  It took a few minutes, but then I saw his face light up when he realized what I was talking about.  The artist was not quite comprehending what was going on, however, when we explained to him that three of his paintings hang in our home, he was thrilled to death!

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The third and final memory that I have of Place du Tertre still makes Ian and I laugh to this day.  After purchasing the “wife’s” paintings, we were walking around the square.  This artist popped up in front of us, looking curiously at Ian. In a sing-song French-accented voice, he said, “I want to paint your baby face!” Ian thought it was extremely funny, however we politely declined.  The artist proceeded to follow us around, exclaiming over and over again, “I want to paint your baby face!”  Deciding that it was time to go, we left Montmartre to head over our next destination, the Arc de Triomphe.  Later that evening, we decided to head back to Montmartre to have dinner.  As we were walking on the cobblestone streets near the Sacre Coeur, a car turned the corner and began driving toward us.  As the car passed us, we heard the same sing-song voice coming from the open window, “I want to paint your baby face!”  Needless to say, the stalker painter had found us again!

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Ooh la la! Would you not want to paint this “baby face”?

Although Place du Tertre has changed over the years, becoming more crowded with tourists, it is still a place that I love to check out for new pieces to adorn my home.  A new painting followed by a crepe and Mass on the weekends…it’s all there in Montmartre.

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My Watercolors
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One of the “wife’s” paintings that hang in my dining room.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Getting to Montmartre

  • Metro:  Abbesses Station (line 12).  Walk east on Rue Yvonne le Tac until Rue Tardieu.  You will be at the very foot of Montmartre hill.
  • Metro:  Anvers Station (line 2).  From the metro station, walk along Rue Steinkerque towards the Sacre Coeur.  You can climb the stairs or take the funicular to the top.
  • Metro:  Blanche Station or Pigalle (line 2).  Check out the Moulin Rouge as you exit the station and walk north on Rue Lepic (Blanche) or Rue Houdon (Pigalle).
  • Metro:  Lamarck Caulaincourt Station (the other side of the Montmartre Hill) (line 12).  A walk up the hill will take you near the Musee de Montmartre.
  • Bus:  Le Montmartrobus makes stops throughout Montmartre.  You can find the map on the RATP website:  http://www.ratp.fr/informer/pdf/orienter/f_plan.php?loc=reseaux&nompdf=montmartrobus:

 

 

Tom’s Place

© 2016  Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When going to a city that I have visited many times before, sometimes it seems as though I have seen it all.  Absolutely aware that I have not, it just sometimes feels that way when looking for new things to do and seemingly finding the same things suggested over and over.

In order to plan my layovers, I always do a Google search for things to do in a city, however, usually all of the common touristic things pop up that I have already experienced.   Recently, I have been employing the search for offbeat things to do.  Sometimes you find some really cool stuff (check out my post on the the Purgatory Museum in Rome, “Bones and Burns”!).

Last week, while investigating activities in Athens, Greece, I decided to look for any unique sights that I had not explored previously.  With my offbeat search, I came across “Tom’s Place” on the Athens Info Guide website.

The home of Tom McGrath on 23 Iperidou Street, collapsed in the earthquake of 1999.  Tom, described as a free spirit, was purported to still live on the property in a run-down room at the rear of the plot amidst a collection of strange objects displayed among the rubble…a vintage motorbike displayed near a car dubbed the Taliban Taxi…a pair of feet sticking out of a plywood coffin…a stuffed elephant peeping from a rubbish bin…a collection of offbeat signs and graffiti.

Marking my Google Maps on my Iphone, I decided that I would try to find this strange residence since my plans were to be in the area.

imageSetting out, I completed my errands and a few other bits of sightseeing.  As I meandered through the Monistiraki Flea Market, near the Old Agora, I checked my map and adjusted my route to take me in the direction of Iperidou Street.  As I was nearing the destination, I started looking out for the strange artistic assemblage, but what I stumbled upon was not what I was expecting.  There on the street corner, was a plywood barricade with crumbling bricks peeking out behind the tops and a dilapidated doorway amidst a decaying facade.  The walls were painted a bright blue and contained a mass of  political messages.  At first, I was not sure that this was the right place…until I stepped around the corner and discovered, Tom’s Donation Box!

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This was absolutely the right place, but how disappointing to not be able to see Tom’s odd collection, I thought, as I looked for an unlocked door or window to peek through.

As I looked across the street, I noticed a sign hanging on a door…Tom’s Corner Plaka.  Hmmm.  Could Tom be living there?  As I lifted my camera up to take a picture of the sign, the door opened and man stepped outside and began to lock the door behind him.

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It had to be Tom!

As he walked across the street, I hesitated for a split second before calling out (and thinking that I must be insane) to him.  “Are you Tom?”.  He seemed to freeze for a second, even as he walked, not knowing whether or not to answer.  Then, as if his curiosity got the best of him, he said, “Yes, I am Tom”.  He began to walk toward me.

Introducing myself to him, I explained that I had come to see his collection of oddities that I had read about and was disappointed to see that his home was boarded up.  He then said to me, “You must have been reading Lonely Planet.  Very inaccurate it is.”  

Explaining that I had read about him on the internet, but not sure where, I had thought his home would be interesting to see.  Tom explained that he had been required to board up his residence as it was deemed an eyesore, but now lived across the street.  We then began a conversation that went on to last about 30 minutes and covered many topics from the Presidential Race in the United States (he thinks Trump is interesting), to where he grew up (Belfast, Ireland) and on to Pan American Airways (he used to drive their crew bus).

Realizing that he had been leaving when I interrupted him, I tried many times to end the conversation, not wanting to keep him…but he kept on talking!  Quite the character, he was extremely entertaining and funny and I found myself enjoying my time there on the curb of Iperidou Street.

Finally, I insisted that I not keep him from his errands and I bade him a farewell. After finding out that I was a flight attendant, he inquired as to the frequency of my visits to Athens and demanded that I come and visit him again the next time I was in town…I also had to agree to bring friends!  We finally shook hands and went on our way!

Leaving Tom’s Place, I was happy that I had stumbled across the suggestion in the Off the Beaten Path section of the Athen’s Info Guide.  Feeling happy that I had succeeded in my task and accomplished way more than marking off something from my sightseeing list…I had made a new friend!  Traveling is not only about seeing and experiencing things, but about meeting unique and interesting people along the way.  That, my friends, is worth way more than the admission price to the Acropolis!

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Check out more pictures of Tom’s Place on Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Tom’s Place

  • Read about it on Athen’s Info Guide:  http://www.athensinfoguide.com/otbp.htm
  • How to get there:  Take metro to Syntagma stop.  Walk across Sytagma Square to the start of Mitropoleos Street heading west,  then take a left on to Voulis.  Take a right on Iperidou.  Tom’s place is on the corner of Iperidou and Sotiros.