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One of the areas that I absolutely love in Paris, is Montmartre.
Standing at the foot of the 270 stairs which lead to the summit of the hill of Montmartre, the Sacre Coeur presiding at the top always takes my breath away. Much fun can be had browsing the many souvenir shops, stopping for crepes along the way and many a cocktail hour or dinner can be whiled away in the legions of restaurants and bars.
My favorite part of Montmartre, however, is Place du Tertre. One of the most visited areas in Paris, it is known for the artists painting and exhibiting their works as well as the area where artistic legends once lived and worked; Van Gogh, Picasso, Modigliano. There are many portraitists and caricaturists, however, there are also artists working in a variety of mediums, including pen and ink, oils and watercolors. Quite a few paintings purchased here grace my walls and a couple of crazy stories remain in my memory.
Years ago, while browsing the myriad of paintings in the square, I came across an artist selling watercolors depicting Parisian scenes. Not usually a fan of watercolors, these, however, caught my eye for the deep, bright hues and the modern feel. Despite the price, I decided that I absolutely loved them and had to have them. After much debate, I settled on two compositions. The artist accompanied me to pay for the purchase with my credit card, only I was shocked to hear that my credit card was declined! Knowing that there should not have been a problem with my card, I reluctantly pulled out another and completed the purchase.
After arriving home, I stealthily crept upstairs and stashed the duo in my art folder in the back of a closet until a time when I could frame and display them. Not wanting my husband to question me about how many euro I had spent, I planned to pop them out at a later date. At dinner that night, my husband casually asked, “So what did you buy for $275 in Paris this weekend?” Shocked into speechlessness, I could not fathom how my husband would have known that I bought anything much less the exact price! It seems, however, that my husband was doing some grocery shopping at Walmart at the exact same time that I was trying to complete my artistic purchase. When the attempt to put my purchase through occurred, his purchase at Walmart had just been completed. Our credit card’s trusty fraud department promptly called him to inquire about my purchase and informed him of the exact amount. So much for keeping my purchase a secret! The paintings, however, now secure the perfect spot on my living room wall and every time I glance at them I chuckle and think about how I was BUSTED!
On another trip, a few years later, I discovered some unique oil paintings of female characters that I knew would look amazing in my dining room. After purchasing and hauling them back in my suitcase, they have now graced my walls for many years.
When my middle son turned thirteen, we visited Paris for his birthday. While walking through Place du Tertre, we stopped to admire an artist’s work. Deciding to purchase a couple of the pieces, I was chatting with the gentleman and discovered that the paintings were actually his wife’s. Glancing to the right, as we spoke, the works there caught my eye and stunned me into total silence. They looked like the same type of paintings that hang on my dining room walls. “Ian”, I said, regaining my voice and gesturing toward the canvases, “Look at these. Where have you seen these before?” It took a few minutes, but then I saw his face light up when he realized what I was talking about. The artist was not quite comprehending what was going on, however, when we explained to him that three of his paintings hang in our home, he was thrilled to death!
The third and final memory that I have of Place du Tertre still makes Ian and I laugh to this day. After purchasing the “wife’s” paintings, we were walking around the square. This artist popped up in front of us, looking curiously at Ian. In a sing-song French-accented voice, he said, “I want to paint your baby face!” Ian thought it was extremely funny, however we politely declined. The artist proceeded to follow us around, exclaiming over and over again, “I want to paint your baby face!” Deciding that it was time to go, we left Montmartre to head over our next destination, the Arc de Triomphe. Later that evening, we decided to head back to Montmartre to have dinner. As we were walking on the cobblestone streets near the Sacre Coeur, a car turned the corner and began driving toward us. As the car passed us, we heard the same sing-song voice coming from the open window, “I want to paint your baby face!” Needless to say, the stalker painter had found us again!
Although Place du Tertre has changed over the years, becoming more crowded with tourists, it is still a place that I love to check out for new pieces to adorn my home. A new painting followed by a crepe and Mass on the weekends…it’s all there in Montmartre.
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Getting to Montmartre
- Metro: Abbesses Station (line 12). Walk east on Rue Yvonne le Tac until Rue Tardieu. You will be at the very foot of Montmartre hill.
- Metro: Anvers Station (line 2). From the metro station, walk along Rue Steinkerque towards the Sacre Coeur. You can climb the stairs or take the funicular to the top.
- Metro: Blanche Station or Pigalle (line 2). Check out the Moulin Rouge as you exit the station and walk north on Rue Lepic (Blanche) or Rue Houdon (Pigalle).
- Metro: Lamarck Caulaincourt Station (the other side of the Montmartre Hill) (line 12). A walk up the hill will take you near the Musee de Montmartre.
- Bus: Le Montmartrobus makes stops throughout Montmartre. You can find the map on the RATP website: http://www.ratp.fr/informer/pdf/orienter/f_plan.php?loc=reseaux&nompdf=montmartrobus: