Tag: photography

Remembering the Fallen

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Several Soviet Memorials are located in Berlin, erected to commemorate its fallen soldiers.

As we drove through the city, on the way to our hotel, we passed one of the memorials, the Tiergarten.

A colleague of mine, of Russian descent, was very excited to see that the monument was not far from some of the other landmarks we had planned to visit later that day.  Having been to Berlin a few times before, I was actually surprised to see that it was located just down the road from the Brandenburg Gate.  Maybe I had seen it and did not realized its significance or maybe I was asleep during the bus tour, but I was excited that I would be able to visit something new and share it with someone that it meant something to.

After our visit to the Brandenburg Gate, we headed west on Strasse des 17 Juni (17 June Street) and found ourselves at the entrance of the memorial which is located in the Großer Tiergarten, a large public park and a place where Adolf Hitler had plans to build Welthauptstadt Germania.  Impressively flanked by two Red Army ML-20 152mm gun-howitzer artillery pieces and two T-34 tanks, the notable monument, a curved stoa, is topped by a towering statue of a Soviet soldier, whose arm is in a position to symbolize the Red Army’s putting down of the Nazi German state.  A Cyrillic inscription under the soldier translates into “Eternal glory to heroes who fell in battle with the German fascist invaders for the freedom and independence of the Soviet Union”.

My friend, reading as we walked, explained that the monument was erected to commemorate the 80,000 soldiers of the Soviet Armed Forces who died during the Battle of Berlin in April and May 1945.  It was constructed  in 1945, within a few months of the capture of the city, and built from stonework taken from the destroyed Reich Chancellery.

As we walked to the rear of the property, we discovered an outdoor museum which highlighted the memorial’s construction and offered a look into the city’s other memorials.

Though the memorial has special meaning to those such as my friend and the many who make pilgrimages from various Soviet countries, there are those, however, who still oppose the monument.  The structure has suffered at the hands of vandals and has earned some harsh nicknames, such as “Tomb of the Unknown Rapist” which references one of the various crimes committed by the Soviet occupation troops.

The Tiergarten was a surprise for me.  Not one of the major attractions of Berlin, I had not planned to include it in my day, however, I was excited to learn more through my visit with my Russian friend.

As we walked the property, admiring the tanks, a bunny hopped out from the bushes.  A short while later, a fox surprised us as he emerged from the same bushes.  Was the fox searching for the bunny?  Though the fatalities of the war ended many years ago, this was a reminder of how things once were…when there were those who were pursued and killed…

Though there are two other Soviet memorials in Berlin, commemorating the fallen, Treptower Park and Schonholzer Heide, make sure to check out the oldest and most conveniently located…Tiergarten.

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Soviet War Memorial (Tiergarten)

 

 

 

 

Brandenburger Tor

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One of the most recognizable landmarks in Europe is the Brandenburger Tor, or Brandenburg Gate.

The first time I ever laid eyes on this magnificent piece of architecture, it confirmed my presence in Berlin.  Yes, I knew I was in Berlin, but standing before it…well, I was really there!

Built between 1788 and 1791 on the orders of the Prussian King, Frederick William II, by Carl Gotthard Langhans, it was the key entry point to the city, marking the start of the road from Berlin to the town of Brandenburg an der Havel, the former capital of the Margraviate of Brandenburg.

Located in the western part of the city center, the gate stands near the Reichstag building, which houses the German parliament, and is the monumental entry to Unter den Linden, the renowned boulevard of linden trees which leads to the Royal City Palace.  Though most of Berlin was destroyed at the end of the war, the iconic gate survived, albeit with heavy damage.  Though East and West Berlin attempted restoration, once the wall was erected, access to the gate, located in East Berlin was eliminated.

As you stand before the gate, its most notable feature is the Quadriga, the statue which depicts the goddess of victory driving a chariot pulled by four horses.  The statue remained in place for over a decade before Napoleon decided that the statue be dismantled and shipped to Paris.  Remaining in storage until 1814, it was returned to Berlin when Paris was captured by Prussian soldiers following Napoleon’s defeat.  When the statue was remounted atop the gate, one change was made…an iron cross was added to represent Prussia’s military victory over France.   During Berlin’s communist era, the cross was removed, but restored in 1990 during the unification of Germany.  Today, the Quadrica grandly sits atop the gate for all to admire.

Many historical events have also taken place at the Brandenburg Gate.

When Hitler came to power in 1933, he was treated to a torchlight procession through Berlin which passed under the gate en route to the presidential palace.

Thirty years later, in 1963, after the Berlin Wall was erected, former U.S. President John F. Kennedy, delivered one of the most famous addresses of his presidency, to a crowd of more than 120,000 gathered near the Brandenburg Gate.  Most people remember this speech for Kennedy’s one phrase, “I am a Berliner” as they do for former President Reagan’s speech, also at the Brandenburg Gate, where he challenged Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev to “tear down this wall” in 1987.

Today, you can view a commemorative plaque which lies across Eberstrasse, which was unveiled at the 25th anniversary of Reagan’s historic address urging for peace.

 Although there are many landmarks that I have visited throughout Europe… London Bridge, the Eiffel Tower, Roman Coliseum, the Leaning Tower of Pisa…I have never been moved by one so much as this, remembering its historical significance.  Counting the bullet holes still remaining in the columns, the feelings that it invokes is indescribable. Though the Brandenburg Gate has undergone restoration over the years, it appears that construction of the subways line beneath the city and the heavy trucks that regularly make deliveries nearby have caused more cracks to appear in this amazing structure.  It is such a shame to think that one day, it might not be here.
Visit while you can…
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Topography Of Terror

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Though it came tumbling down in 1989, parts of the Berlin Wall still  stand as a testament to the Cold War era.

One such stretch of the wall is located appropriately enough at the Topography of Terror, an outdoor and indoor history museum located on Niederkirchnerstrasse, on the site in which during the Nazi regime from 1933-1945, buildings housed the headquarters of the Gestapo and the SS.  During Allied bombings in 1945, these buildings were destroyed and the ruins demolished after the war.

The Berlin Wall ran along the south side of the street, previously known as Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse and separated the American and Soviet zones.  Here, adjacent to the Topography of Terror, the longest outer segment, still remaining, can be seen both from within the museum’s grounds and from the outside.

Exhibitions marked the museum’s beginnings on Berlin’s 750th anniversary in 1987.  Shortly after, the cellar of the Gestapo headquarters, a gruesome site of  torture and execution, was located and excavated.  The site, covered at the time with canopies, was turned into an open-aired memorial and museum and detailed the history of repression under the Nazis.  Today, a permanent open-aired museum informs visitors of the timeline of the Third Reich, from Hitler’s rise, to the fall of Berlin, through the use of statistical information, anecdotal clips, photographs and architectural remnants.

Both fascinating and sobering at the same time, the Topography of Terror is worth a look, if not for the information, but for an up-close and personal look at the historical barricade.

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Topography Of Terror

  • http://www.topographie.de/
  • Address:  Niederkirchnerstraße 8, 10963 Berlin, Germany
  • Hours:  Daily, 1000-2000
  • Admission:  free
  • Note:  Additional sections of the Berlin Wall can be seen at and near the Potsdamer Platz.

Checkin’ Out Checkpoint Charlie

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

“YOU ARE LEAVING THE AMERICAN SECTOR”…

was the sign (in English, Russian, French and German) that marked the main entry and departure point at the division of East and West Berlin during the Cold War.

From 1947 until 1991, Checkpoint Charlie was one of the best known border crossings.  It allowed diplomats, journalists and non-Germans to enter East Berlin on a one-day pass, but it is also known for another event in October of 1961.  It was here that U.S. and Soviet tanks faced off angrily…an incident that the world feared would lead to World War III.

Checkpoint Charlie and the Berlin Wall signified the division between East and West…capitalism and communism…opportunity and repression…until the wall was torn down on November 9, 1989.   It is hard to fathom how much has changed in Berlin and that it was only 28 years ago that Berlin was still a divided city.

Today, Checkpoint Charlie, it is one of the sights that every visitor should see due to its historical significance.  Although the wooden barrack where the visitors to East Berlin were required to pass through for vetting was removed, a US Army guardhouse and a copy of the original border sign stands in its place.  The original white booth that originally stood here, now resides in the Allierten Museum in Berlin-Dahlem.  The location of the wall can be spied in the roadway where cobblestones now mark the site and photographs of an American and a Soviet soldier stand tall.

Two gentlemen in military uniforms stand facing Zimmerstrasse and give tourists an idea of what entering Checkpoint Charlie would have been like.  Don’t expect them to pose for photos, however, one of them holds a flag and conveniently waves it in front of his face when he spies a camera pointed his way.   They will pose with you for a fee of 3€ and the other soldier will stamp your passport with commemorative stamps, for 2€.

While in Berlin, take a few moments to stop by Checkpoint Charlie and try to imagine how many stood here, trying to figure out a way to the other side.  You can also visit the Checkpoint Charlie Museum where you will learn about the Berlin Wall and the many daring escape attempts by East Germans.  An unbelieveable experience!

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Checkpoint Charlie

  • http://www.berlin.de/en/

Bear Hunting in Berlin!

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Throughout the city of Berlin…there are no lions or tigers…only bears!  Oh my!

The Buddy Bears are life-size fiberglass sculptures that have become unofficial ambassadors for Germany and symbols of Berlin since 2001.  Designed by Klaus and Eva Herlitz and sculptor Roman Strobl, the bears were created for an artistic event which aimed to bring art to the streets as other events did in many major cities of the world.

Promoting peace, international understanding and tolerance among nations, cultures and religions, the bear’s raised arms offer friendliness, optimism and quite often a positive mood…think of all those cute selfies!

There are four different designs…standing on all four paws, standing on two legs, standing on its head and a sitting position.  After the initial exhibit, many of the bears were sold at auctions which benefited child relief organizations.

Today, the Berlin Buddy Bears can be found on private premises, in front of hotels and embassies as well as in the foyers of various office buildings.

It is always exciting to be out walking and come across these fantastic sculptures!  If you think they are as adorable as I do and want to seek out some amazingly, unique selfies from the German capitol..I dare you, go bear hunting!

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The Berlin Buddy Bears

 

A Walk in the Jungle

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Having visited San Gervasio archaeological site twice in the past, it was a place about which I could have said, “Been there, done that”.

Not me…

I love ruins and architecture.  So why would I not go back?

The largest and most important archaeological site on Cozumel is a sanctuary to Ixchel, the goddess of fertility and love.  Located in the center of the island in the middle of a lush jungle, populated with iguanas, flowers and foliage,  the site’s name was taken from the agricultural and cattle ranch, San Gervasio, founded by Mr. Gervasio Novelo on September 14, 1858.

The site’s original name is unknown, but its long history dates back to 100 BC and it continued into the late 16th century, with the arrival of  the Spaniards.

For the duration of San Gervasio’s existence, women have made the obligatory pilgrimage to pay tribute to Ixchel, “She Of the Rainbows”, deity of midwifery, fertility and women.

The site’s entrance is well-marked on Transversal Road, but once turning from the main road, the drive is long and narrow and marked with a speed limit that I think the iguanas could outrun.

A decent parking lot is available for those with rentals and a nice, attendant will keep an eye on your car…be sure, he will remember you and be standing nearby for his tip!

When entering the complex and paying your entrance fee of $4.50, you will first encounter a courtyard, with a few souvenir shops.  Since, I only had a rain slicker, we were trying to purchase a small umbrella for my son.  The shops only carried the long, curved handle type, for $10, which would have been impossible to bring home.  One of the shop owners, offered to lend us one, for a tip…actually a good deal for us and a smart move on her part.  How many times has this umbrella paid for itself?

Another tip I learned later was about bug spray…definitely bring your own.  My son is a mosquito magnet and I did not think of picking up some while in town.  The shop vendors were more than willing to sell us a very expensive can, which we did not purchase due to the size and cost.  Later, I learned that we could have asked for a spray down for a tenth of the cost of the can…something we should have definitely done for my son.

It is in this area that you can hire a guide to take you throughout the complex and the price for the both of us was $20, though we opted not to use this service. Restrooms are also located here and I recommend using the facilities before entering the site.

Before entering the actual archaeological site, you encounter another ticket counter.  I don’t understand the logic here…would you seriously pay just to enter the courtyard?  Anyway, here we paid $5 each and received our tickets.

The site is very well laid out, well marked and has sturdy paths to lead you from one area to the next in the front of the complex.

One of the first buildings you encounter is the The Little Hands Structure, so named because of the red colored hand prints that mark the wall.  The temple is comprised of two rooms in which a small temple was built in the interior of one of them.

Another small house-like structure is located nearby, although it is almost certain to have had a ceremonial use.  A small temple is also located in the center of the structure.

As we continued on, we encountered other small structures, but an impressive arch-like structure, which marked the intersection of two ancient roads  or sacbés, caught my eye.  In pre-hispanic days, The Arch Structure, was the entrance or exit of the central part of San Gervasio.  Pilgrims and traders would reach the famous sanctuary of Ixchel to make an offering at the altar that lies in the middle of the vaulted passageway.  It was here that many statues to Ixchel were found and are still being discovered.  One of the statues, a large ceramic image of Ixchel was believed to have delivered oracles spoken by a hidden priestess for pilgrims with questions.

From this point, we chose one of the two roads to either Pozo or Nohoch Nah.  The paved paths ended here and the road was rocky and a bit muddy from the recent rains.

Nohoch Nah, also known as the the Big House Structure, was quite an impressive one.  An altar in the middle of the enclosure, in which offerings were placed can be seen through the grated metal that covers the doorways.  Most archaeological sites prohibit you from standing on or climbing the structures, however, this one allows for climbing the stairs and walking around the formation giving you a distinct understanding of how the Mayans felt when they utilized the structure.

After a long and drizzly walk through the jungle, complete with massive puddles blocking the path, we soon arrived at Murciélagos y Pet Nah.  The Muciélagos and Round House Structures were the most important buildings in the Late Classic period in San Gervasio.  The principal center of the site was located here and it was also here that the Overlord resided.  The Round House was named as such due to the unusual rounded platforms and its altar which is also round. Again, we were able to climb to the top of the rounded platforms giving us a different perspective of Murciélagos.

After another long and muddy walk through the jungle, we soon arrived at the final area of San Gervasio, complete with four distinct structures.  The Palace Structure contained colonnaded halls most of which can still be seen standing on the foundation.   Though you were not prohibited from climbing the other structures, here, signs inform you that it is not allowed.

In this wide, grassy area, another structure, is the Ossuary,  The structure was aptly named after numerous human remains were found inside during exploration of the building.  The temple no longer exists, but originally had masonry walls and a a roof.

Another smaller structure also stands here in this area, Structure 25B, which was also another colonnaded hall with a masonry roof.   Different from other colonnaded halls, it only had three pillars with square bases and three columns with round bases.

Back to the smooth, paved walkways, we made our way toward the front of the complex returning our umbrella along the way.

Though San Gervasio is not quite as large as Chichen Itza or many of the other massive ruin sites in the Riviera Maya and has not had a lot of restoration, the numerous structures that can be viewed at close range amid the beautiful natural setting makes the off-the-beaten trek, worthwhile.

So…grab your sunglasses, umbrella and bug spray and your sense of adventure…head on over to San Gervasio.

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San Gervasio

  • http://www.inah.gob.mx/es/zonas/101-zona-arqueologica-san-gervasio
  • Address:  Kilómetro 7.5, Carretera Transversal, Centro, 77600 Cozumel, Q.R., Mexico
  • Hours:  Monday thru Sunday, 0800-1630
  • Admission:  $9.50
  • How To Get There:  By car, head north on Transversal Road from downtown Cozumel.  The entrance is well-marked.  If you are arriving by cruise ship, many taxis will take you to the ruins and wait for about $70 and return you to San Miguel or the cruise ship’s dock.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A Vibrant Village

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Mayan ruins dot the landscape throughout Mexico.

On Cozumel, two archaelogical sites are easily accessible to tourists…

San Gervasio is the largest and located in the central part of Cozumel.

The smallest, but oldest, El Cedral, is located near the south coast.

Having never heard of El Cedral, we were anxious to check out this small fertility temple, dating back to 800 AD.  Once functioning as a jail in the 19th century, it is located in a small village and is thought to have been an important ceremonial site.

As we drove through the arched entrance, it was late afternoon and we wondered if our arrival might be too late.  Passing through a gate, we traveled down a long rural road before arriving at the front of the village.

A central plaza spread before us with a large, covered pavilion, lined with brightly covered flags.  A nearby covered structure contained a large number of inscribed benches and there were a few vendor’s storefronts as well as the Hacienda Tequila Museum, which offers tequila tastings.

Not seeing a ruin or signs directing us to one, we turned left and drove around the village.  What a treat!  Brightly colored houses, with festive crosses and art displays greeted us at every corner.

As we made the full circle, back to the front of the village, a kindly villager stopped our car to direct us to the location of the ruin and showed us a parking location.

Festive statues greeted us at the front of the pavilion and after walking through the pavilion, we found the temple located at the far, left end.  Not very impressive and having no ornamentation, the ruin sits next to the highlight of the village, a small stucco church, which is known to be the first church on the island, the Church of El Cedral.

The church, rather small and simple,  is light and airy although its seating does not appear to be very comfortable.  On the altar were three small garments that appeared to be draped over three crucifixes.  I was quite curious about these, but with no one nearby, I was unable to find out more.

Knowing that the large pavilion in the center of town houses a five-day festival, Féria El Cedral, which brings people from all over Mexico at the end of April or early May, to enjoy the festivities, I had no idea that these crosses had anything to do with it.

Once we had walked around the church, we returned to visit one of the the souvenir shops.  Here, I found out more.

Legend has it that 150 years ago, a young man by the name of Casimiro Cárdenas was attacked during the Caste War in the town of Saban.  Though the enemies killed his companions, Cárdenas survived the massacre by hiding under other bodies, while clutching a cross, an event which came to be known as the Miricle of Saban. So strongly that Cárdenas believed that the cross was the reason he survived that he vowed to honor the cross even as he later settled in El Cedral.  Soon after arriving in the town, he and the other immigrants celebrated the first services to honor the holy cross in which after praying, they received the toche (blessing with the cross).  Invitations were also extended to the residents of the main town of Cozumel, a tradition that still continues.

The pavilion is where the traditional and folkloric events are performed and many other events are held in conjunction with the festival…horse racing, rooster fights, rodeo, concerts and bullfighting.  Large quantities of food are prepared and consumed and commemorative merchandise is sold throughout the event.   The Pigs Head dance, in which dancers carry a decorated pig’s head, is one of the culminating events of the festivities.

After the death of Casimiro Cárdenas, his wife continued the festivities and today, his descendants are the keepers of the holy cross of Sabán.  The festival is held between April 23 with prayers commencing at dawn and end on May 3rd with a traditional dance “Cabeza de Cerdo”, symbolizing Jesus Christ’s sacrifice.

While making the drive around Cozumel, take a half hour out of your day to visit El Cedral, a town steeped in tradition and history.  Very easy to find, it is located 3 km west of Carretera Costera Sur.  The turnoff is near Km 17, across from the Alberto’s Restaurant sign.  And, if you are on the island during festival season, be sure and visit…and tell us about it!

 

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El Cedral Village, Church and Archaeological Ruins

  • Hours:  Open daily
  • Admission:  free
  • How to Get There:   Located 3 km west of Carretera Costera Sur.  The turnoff is near Km 17, across from the Alberto’s Restaurant sign.

Cruising Around Cozumel

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Some arrive in Cozumel by cruise ship.

Some by air.

Some by ferry.

No matter your method of transportation into Cozumel, make sure you’ve arrived by checking out all that the island has to offer!

My family and I have been to Cozumel many times over the years.  Most times we have arrived by ferry, a couple of times by cruise ship, but this time, my son and I arrived by air.  Honestly, I am a flight attendant and I should know these type of things, but I don’t think I realized that Cozumel had an airport…as I’ve only ever talked to people who have flown into Cancun and gone to Cozumel by ferry.

School had just let out and everyone in my family was busy with work and other obligations except for me and my youngest son.  An adventure was in order! We had no idea where we were going to end up.  We were going to go to the airport, with suitcases filled with clothing for any climate and get on a flight…any flight…and see where we could go.

After miraculously getting seats on an oversold flight to Atlanta, we had to devise a plan.  Grabbing breakfast and a seat at McDonald’s, we opened up my computer and began checking which flights from Atlanta had seats to and from the destination.  Sunny Cozumel was the winner!  (Or so we thought…) A few hours later, we were touching down at the Cozumel International Airport.  We couldn’t wait to lay by the pool and get some much need sun and relaxation.

To our dismay, no beautiful, sunny skies were there to greet us…only gray clouds and wet pavement.  How can this be?  We were arriving at a tropical destination…a resort…don’t they order up beautiful weather for the tourists?  Surely this was just a passing rain shower!

After arriving at our hotel, the El Cozumeleño, we donned our bathing suits and headed out to the pool.  It was raining again.  No good.  Time to pull up to the bar.

It continued to rain…all night…and after a text to my dad, I realized that because I don’t watch the news regularly, I had failed to comprehend that it was hurricane season and a tropical storm was causing havoc in the Gulf of Mexico.  Ugh…

The next morning, with high hopes, I pulled back the curtains in our room, hoping for sun.  Nope.  No sun again.  Those same gray clouds and a light rain greeted us.

Well, we were in Cozumel.  Rain or not, we were going to see what was out there, even if we had to buy umbrellas and rain slickers.  It was time to make the best of it!

After renting a Jeep Patriot (great for driving through floodwaters) we headed out.  Navigating the narrow streets, we drove slowly, through the pouring rain until we reached the main highway that cuts through the middle of the island (Transversal de Cozumel).  The rain had slowed and we were soon arriving at San Gervasio archaeological site.  Thankfully, the rain soon tapered off and we were able to spend some time investigating these interesting ruins.

Heading east again, we soon spotted the end of the road.  Only two ways to go…north or south.  Since we had been warned by our rental company that traveling on the dirt road to the north would void our rental contract, we decided that it was southbound for us!

This part of the island has some amazing beaches and breathtaking scenery and at the turn in the road, a very cool bar and restaurant…Señor Iguanas.  Years ago, I remember coming to this part of the island and there only being some small fisherman’s huts and small shacks that sold tacos and beer.  Although we would have loved to hang out at Señor Iguanas and enjoy the views, the ambiance and the forty mile per hours winds whipping through the establishment, we decided to get some food to go and continue on our way.  After all, we now had a break in the rain.

The waves were quite large and for a while, we stopped to watch a group of surfers ride the massive crests toward shore.  If there had been more of a gentle swell, my son would have considered taking a lesson at one of the many venues along the way that offer private instruction.

As we continued on, we stopped often to admire the spectacular coastline, shop at the many vendors that line the roadway and just enjoy our drive and time being away from the resort.

As we rounded the island’s southernmost tip, we headed west and made our way, past many resorts, to the village of El Cedral which boasts the first church on the island and a Mayan ruin.  I especially enjoyed driving around the town’s back streets…lots of cute homes and artwork line the streets!

With the rain still at bay, we drove through downtown (vowing to make our way here the next day for shopping), past a tall lighthouse and on to a place we had seen on our way to the hotel.

Bam No. 4 Military Base (Base Aérea Militar No. 4) offers some great photo ops with some old military planes displayed out front.  In addition, there is a war memorial, honoring some of the defenders of the nation.

Leaving our car parked in this location, we made the short walk back towards town to a small square located between the roadways.  Here, there is a replica of a Mayan temple with statues depicting ancient Mayans.

As the day was drawing to a close, we made our way back to our hotel and our dinner reservations, ever thankful that we were able to see what Cozumel had to offer even though the weather wasn’t up to par.

Pulling back into the El Cozumelena, with not a moment to spare, we parked our car as the skies opened up again and we made a mad dash inside!  Time to head to the bar…

Cozumel is a lovely destination for anyone who loves islands or is a diver or snorkeler (thousands of dive sites lie just offshore).  There are many delicious food options throughout the city and various types of shopping in the central plaza  and throughout the island.  And…if you run out of things to do in Cozumel, take the ferry (located downtown) right on over to the mainland and Playa del Carmen and the Mayan Riviera.  You will find many other things to do there as well!

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San Gervasio Archaeological Zone

Senor Iguanas

  • Address:  At the intersection of Transversal de Cozumel and Quintana Roo C-1

El Cedral

  • Address:  Off of highway Quintana Roo C-1, near Playa Palancar
  • Admission:  free

Bam No. 4

  • Address:  On Avenue Rafael E. Melgar, just past downtown, heading north
  • Admission:  free

 

All About Antibes

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Seen it all in Nice?  Head to Antibes!

Founded by the Greeks over 2000 years ago with the name Antipolis, modern day Antibes and the nearby chic commune of Juan le Pins are havens for sun seekers during the warmest months of the year.  Forty eight beaches beckon tourists from all over the world and world class restaurants, bars, boutiques, markets and museums nourish and entertain.

With so many things to see in this quaint town, I was undecided as to where to begin.  After my tour of Fort Carré was complete and I had ogled one too many yachts, I walked into Old Town through one of the city’s gates.   Taking a picturesque walk along one the 10th century ramparts that surround the city, I admired the Mediterranean Sea and stopped to hop up on the wall, enjoy a cool coconut gelato and gaze upon the Plage de la Gravette, where many a sun worshiper was basking in the afternoon warmth.

Hearing the church bells toll from a nearby bell tower, I headed into Old Town and to the 18th century church of the Immaculate Conception (Antibes Cathedral).  Here, I discovered a brilliantly hued structure built in the 11th century on the site of an ancient pagan temple and with stones used from earlier Roman fabrications.  The interior was not as impressive as I had hoped, but contained some notable pieces such as a Baroque altarpiece, the 16th century Virgin of the Rosary by Louis Bréa which depicts Christ as a child, being held by Mary with cherubs in the background.   You can also observe a life-sized wood carving of Christ’s death.

Moving on from the cathedral, I soon found myself at the Marché Provençal, a covered market close to the harbor which offers fresh selections of meats, fishes, cheeses and vegetables every day.  As I wandered through building, I also discovered many local craftsmen offering handicrafts available for purchase as well as some artists displaying their talents.

The day was drawing to a close, and I wanted to visit the Castle of Antibes, which is home to the world renowned Picasso Museum.  Containing one of the greatest Picasso collections, the museum draws hardcore fans from far and wide to view the twenty-four paintings, forty-four drawings, thirty-two lithographs, eleven oils on paper, eighty pieces of ceramics, two sculptures and five tapestries. Visiting the place where Picasso lived on the sea for six months, however, was not to be.  Having written down the incorrect closing time, I arrived as the doors were being locked!

Not quite ready for dinner, a bit of shopping was in order before realizing that I was soon meandering (my favorite thing to do) the alleyways and streets of the city.  This soon became my favorite part of the day…with so many little idiosyncrasies to discover!  Horse heads, seashell decorations, nooks and crannies, vividly painted walls, various types of ornamentation, brilliantly colored doors and shutters…it was impossible to imagine what might be around the next corner!  Who needs a Picasso museum when you have a real live art gallery on every street?

While you could spend countless hours at the beach in Antibes and thoroughly enjoy yourself, make a point of exploring the Old Town…the cultural heart of the Côte d’Azur!

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Antibes

Cathedral of Our-Lady of the Immaculate Conception in Antibes

Marché Provençal

http:/1828 Cours Masséna, 06600 Antibes, France

Musée Picasso

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The French Fort

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Sometimes I have trouble getting to or from work, so I take Amtrak.  But, as an American, that is about the extent of what we call train travel here in the United States.

Everyone in Europe takes the train…everywhere.  The rail networks reach far and wide and it is extremely easy (and relatively cheap) to visit, shop or go to the beach in other cities.f

Recently, a trip to Nice had me itching to see more of the coastal area.  Having been to Monaco and Juan le Pins, I had only spent a small amount of time in Antibes and decided that I would like to see what else it had to offer.

Shortly after my arrival (and a shower), I made my way to the train station, Gare de Nice-Ville and purchased a ticket for the next departure to Antibes.  Though it was running a few minutes  late, I was soon on my way.

The train was filled with beach goers carrying floats and beach bags, excitedly talking amongst themselves and eager to arrive at their destinations to enjoy the beautiful warm and sunny day.  A short 25 minutes later, the train was pulling into Gare d’Antibes and after pushing past a man carrying two beach chairs and a child already wearing his floaties, I was soon making my way down toward the marina, Port Vauban.

Port Vauban, a natural harbor used since before the Roman Empire, is home to the Yacht Club d’Antibes and is the largest marina in the Mediterranean.  The harbor houses some of the world’s largest and most extravagant yachts.  When visiting Antibes, a great way to spend an afternoon is to walk around the marina, check out some of the amazing vessels and imagine what it would be like to cruise the vibrant waters in absolute luxury!

Though it was nice to spend some time near the harbor, my destination was actually on the far side, Fort Carré.

When making plans to visit Antibes, I had spied Fort Carré on the map.  It appeared to be directly between the train station and the harbor and my original plan to was to walk nearby and see if it was open to the public.  Well, maps aren’t always correct and after my arrival, I discovered it was about a fifteen minute walk away from the center of Antibes.  The route was well marked and I soon arrived at the Antibes Football Club stadium.  A large statue that appeared to be some sort of memorial and the fort was visible on the other side, however, it was quite confusing as to how to make my way there.

Spying an open gate near the Football Club, I made my way to the far side of the stadium.  Climbing the stone stairways, I made my way to the statue, Le Poilu.

One of the tallest, yet, little known War Memorials in France, the statue stands guard over the Stade de Fort Carré.  Walking around the base of the statue, you are reminded of the terrible losses that the town of Antibes suffered during World War One.  Two hundred and fifty-four names are engraved on all four side of the monument’s base…a number larger than any other town in France.

The statue stands 22 meters in height and was sculpted by Henri Bouchard and inaugurated in 1927.  Legend has it that upon completion and installation of the statue, the sculptor committed suicide when he realized that he had placed the soldier’s rifle on the wrong side.

Walking past the statue, I began earnestly searching for the Fort’s entrance.  Though a fence separated me from a road bordering the stadium and the fort, I noticed people walking in the area.  Certain that I needed to be on the opposite side, I slipped through a hole in the fence (yes…I did) and finally found the unassuming entrance to the fort’s grounds.

Quite overgrown and appearing to be more of a natural path, I followed others up the rocky and dusty trail, stopping occasionally to admire the wildflowers growing in the area.

Finally, the entryway to the castle stood before me.  Paying the admission fee of 3€, I was instructed to remain on the lower level until greeted by a guide.  Walking around the circular interior courtyard, I was mesmerized by the contrast between the dark red doorways and the aged tan stone walls.  An exhibit detailing the construction of the castle was contained in one of the rooms off of the courtyard and an old well occupied the ground space.

A young, female guide soon joined us and we were escorted up the rounded stairway to the level above.  Making our way through the structure, she informed us on the history of Fort Carre.

The star shaped fort was built in the 16th century by Henri de Mandon and redeveloped in the 17th century by the Marquis de Vauban.  Housing barrack buildings for officers and men and an ancient chapel, the fort is devoid of cannons or other military accoutrements.

Set on the headland that divides the Antibes harbor from the Baie des Anges, the most impressive part of traversing the walkways at the top of the structure is the panoramic views of the Mediterranean and its nearby beaches, Port Vauban, the southern Alps and on clear days views down both ways to Monaco and Cannes.

 

As we dodged an aggressive seagull, guarding its nest, we were informed that one of the most famous inhabitants of the fort was Napoleon Bonaparte during the French Revolution.  After the overthrow of Robespierre in 1794, he was detained in Fort Carré for ten days.  The fort resumed its penitentiary role during the occupation in World War II when it acted as holding place for foreigners.  Before opening to the public as an historic monument in 1998, the fort was used as a sports college where soldiers learned to climb its precipitous walls and as one of the locations for the Bond film, Never Say Never with the return of Sean Connery as 007.

Enjoying the warmth of the sunny day, I could have stayed on the top of the fort for much longer, however, being required to stay in the company of our guide, we were escorted to the lower level for the completion of our tour.

After my departure, I made my way around the entire base of the fort, stopping to pay my respects at a nearby soldier’s grave.  Finally, following a drive down the backside of the fort, I found the green entrance gates.  Not anxious to slip through the hole in the fence once again, I walked toward the stadium’s left side and sure enough found the path which I should have taken when I arrived.

Much easier than the latter method of entry!

Excited that I was able to experience a part of French history, I made my way back past the harbor and to the center of Antibes.  If you enjoy history and photography, I strongly recommend a visit to Fort Carré…and the view’s not so bad either!

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Fort Carré

  • http://www.antibes-juanlespins.com/culture/fort-carre
  • Address:  Avenue du 11 Novembre, 06600 Antibes, France
  • Hours:  February to May, 1000-1230 and 1330-1700, June to October,  1000-1300 and 1400-1800, November to January, 1000-1230 and 1330-1630.  Closed Mondays and January 1, May 1, November 1 and December 25.
  • Admission:  3€

Port Vauban

Le Poilu

  • Address:  60 Avenue du 11 Novembre, 06600 Antibes Juan les Pins, France.  Behind the Antibes Football Stadium