The Big Hut

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In 1906, three monks visiting from Jiangsu Province on the Chinese mainland founded a monastery located on the Ngong Ping Plateau on Lantau Island.

Named Tai Mao Pung, or “The Big Hut”, it was renamed eighteen years later to it’s current appellation.

Today, Po Lin Monastery, as it is presently known, attracts thousands of visitors each year, in conjunction with the Tian Tan Buddha, an extension of the monastery.

After completing our visit to the Tian Tan Buddha, we languished in the plaza and admired the massive entrance gate for the monastery.  Approaching the compound, the first thing we noticed was that it is not just a tourist attraction, but a frequented temple, still maintaining its original character and traditions. Many people were observed paying their respects, praying and lighting incense offerings in the front courtyard of the temple.

Making our way around the complex, we noticed the pristine condition of the grounds and buildings and the artistry of the colorful architecture.  There are many pronounced structures, including the Main Hall of Buddha and the Hall of Bodhisattva Skanda, with the older buildings at the rear of the property.

As we approached the main courtyard, we first encountered a smaller temple leading to the main courtyard that faces the Temple Gateway.  Inside the temple there are deities and guards safeguarding the entrance.

The Great Hall of Treasure is truly a magnificent structure with breathtaking, high ceilings decorated with paintings, hangings and lamps.  Holding court in the center of the Great Hall are three Great Golden Buddhas, which represent Buddha’s past, present and future lives (Sakyamuni, Dipamkarara and Maitreya). Also housed here are a number of Buddhist scriptures.  Even the exterior is astonishing with carvings and beautiful architectural details. Take note of the Chinese characters on top of the main temple which spell out Po Lin Monastery or Precious Lotus (a special symbol in Buddhism meaning purity).

In the Hall of Bodhisattva Skanda, we observed a bronze statue of  weighing approximately 441 pounds in addition to a 2,200 pound bronze bell.

The most recent structure to be added to the complex is the Hall of Ten Thousand Buddhas, which includes, of course, an impressive number of Buddhas, a shrine hall, a Meditation Hall, an abbot’s chamber, a Scripture Library and other multi-functional facilities for a wide variety of events.  An Exhibition Hall for Buddhist relics is also located within which houses many precious items including the Longcang Sutra and the Monk Huayan Preaching Buddhist Sutras (a painting).

The entire complex is awe-inspiring and one should take the proper amount of time to inspect each of the buildings within, discovering minute details at each venue.  Photography is not allowed in the main buildings, though we were able to take a few quick photos.

There are a few eateries located near to the monastery’s main buildings as well as reasonably-priced souvenir shops.  One thing I learned later, however, was that the monastery is known for making wooden bracelets.  They are only sold near the Tian Tan Buddha.  I wish I had been privy to this information as we would have purchased a few, to not only subsidize the monastery, but to remember the tranquility experienced here.

You can continue your path to wisdom and enlightenment by taking the Wisdom Path, a short walk from the monastery.  Here, is a sort of a colonnade where a series of wooden posts forming a figure eight are engraved with the Heart Sutra, a revered prayer by Buddhists, Taoists and Confucians, which is generally chanted during the morning services or other occasions such a funerals.  The path is well-marked and can be accessed from either the monastery or the Big Buddha.

No matter what your religious affiliation, you will certainly appreciate why the Jiangsu Province monks chose this site.

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Po Lin Monastery

  • http://www.plm.org.hk/
  • Address:  Ngong Ping Lantau Island, Hong Kong
  • Hours:  1000-1730, daily
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Option 1:  Take Lantau Bus No. 23 at the bus station outside Tung Chung MTR Station to Ngong Ping Bus Terminus (travel time: about 45 minutes).  Option 2:  Take Ngong Ping Cable Car at the Cable Car Station outside Tung Chung MTR Station (travel time: about 25 minutes); take an additional 10-minute walk to the Monastery.  Option 3:  Take First Ferry from Central Pier to Mui Wo, and take Lantau Bus No.2 to Ngong Ping Bus Terminus (travel time from Mui Wo to Ngong Ping: about 35 minutes).  Option 4:  Take Lantau Bus No. 21 at the bus stop in Tai O to Ngong Ping Bus Terminus (travel time: about 15 minutes).  Option 5:  Take a Lantau Island taxi.

The Red Gate

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Everyone likes to make an entrance.

In 1634, construction began on strong city walls which were to protect the city of San Juan from enemy attacks.  Completion of the twenty foot thick masonry walls took 148 years and six gates (puertas) were constructed to allow access through the walls into the city.  Each of the gates was protected by a sentry box (garita) to shelter the guards and the entryways were secured at night with no access until morning.

The San Juan Gate (Puerta de San Juan) was the formal entrance to the city and was the point of entry where Spanish dignitaries arrived.  After access was granted, these dignitaries, made their way up the cobblestone streets, to Catedral San Juan Bautista (also known as San Juan Cathedral), to thank God for their safe voyage.

The other five gates spaced throughout the three-mile wall were used to transport materials and supplies and also to allow for everyday traffic.  Today, only Puerta de San Juan, and inestimable landmark, is accessible to tourists and is a must-see in the historic city.  Located southwest of Castillo San Felipe del Morro, the gate is continually open and after passing through, panoramic views of San Juan Bay, the busiest ocean port in the Caribbean, Isla de Cabras (Goat Island) and a small Spanish fort, El Canuelo, across the channel can be appreciated.  The path, through the gate, leads to Paseo del Morro, the National Recreation Trail which skirts the coast, following the city walls (La Muralla) from the gate to the notable citadel.

As you approach the gate, you will notice an inscription, Benedictus qui venit in nomine Domini.  The verse comes from The Sanctus, “Holy”, a Latin hymn from Catholic liturgy and means, “Blessed is he who comes in the name of the Lord”.

As I made my way through the gate, I made a stop to inspect the sentry box on the coastal side of the wall.  Following Paseo del Morro’s flawlessly paved path, I marveled at the waves sometimes pounding the shore on one side and the ancient wall on the other, repeatedly marked with garitas.  At the end of my one and a half mile trek, I suddenly realized that the path ended.  Many people will tell you that you should retrace your steps back to the San Juan Gate, however, along with a German family, I found an entrance to the grounds of El Morro fort, a remarkable structure that was next on my list.

And the story of the fortified city continues…

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San Juan Gate

  • https://sanjuanpuertorico.com/la-puerta-de-san-juan-san-juan-gate/
  • Address:   Cll Caleta De San Juan, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
  • Hours:  Open 24 hours
  • Admission:  Free
  • Getting There:  From the Cathedral, follow Caleta de San Juan westward.

 

 

 

 

Maria Was Here

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In September, a massive category five hurricane devastated Puerto Rico and many other Caribbean islands, killing 547 people.

We noticed that our cruise itinerary included a stop in San Juan.  Speaking with my travel representative, I was told at the time of booking that while Puerto Rico was still recovering, they were anticipating being able to accept tourists and cruise ships by the time of our arrival.

We were still a bit skeptical as to the condition of the island, but we had been to Puerto Rico before and we didn’t feel the need to book an excursion or feel that we had to go out and see anything, if the island was not quite ready.

Since our day in St. Kitts was cancelled the day before, however, I was antsy and ready to get off of the boat to stretch my legs.  Not long after the doors were opened, I was on my way to check out the city.

First heading to San Cristobal Fort, I then made my way though the city and thru Plaza de Colon, stopping to admire the colorful Christmas decorations.  After my visit to San Cristobal, I headed west past the throngs of cruisers (both Carnival and Royal Caribbean were docked) eager to spend their money in the many establishments in Old Town.

San Cristobal

Although a few buildings were still boarded up, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the most of the Spanish colonial buildings in Old Town appeared to be in good shape and open for business, their colorful architecture standing strong with Puerto Rican flags proudly flying  in the morning breeze.

Catedral San Juan Bautista

As I continued through the city, stopping at the the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi and the Cathedral of San Juan Bautista, passing through the Old City Gate and strolling along the fortified walls of Castillo San Felipe del Morro, I looked out at the Bay of San Juan, over to El Cañelo fort on Isla de Cabras (Goat Island), thinking how peaceful the blue-green waters now appeared.  Never…ever…could I imagine how these seas must have looked and the power they unleashed a few short months ago.

Church of Saint Francis of Assisi
Church of Saint Francis of Assisi

 

San Juan City Gate
Fortified city walls

Speaking with a shop owner, I was listened in horror as he recalled the storm’s wrath as the hurricane destroyed his home and what he and his family experienced in the aftermath.  You could see the joy in his face as he expressed how happy he was to see people walking through the cobblestone streets, eating at the restaurants and shopping in the stores.

Maria will forever leave its mark on the beautiful island, if not visibly, absolutely in the residents’ minds.  Though many parts of the island are still without power, the residents are forging ahead, attempting to attain normalcy.  The first steps involve getting tourists to come back, however, many are quite shy, since a large number of hotels are not back to operational standards.  The return of cruise ships, however, is a lifesaver, as tourists are able to see the progress and spread the word that Puerto Rico, is indeed, on the word to recovery.

Throughout the island, the people of Puerto Rico would like the world to know, “Our island is officially open for tourism and ready to welcome you.”

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Puerto Rico

  • http://puertoriconow.seepuertorico.com/
  • Tourism in numbers (according to the Puerto Rico Tourism website):  107 attractions are open, 70 daily flights are operating, 122 hotels are operating, 15 casinos are open, 4000 restaurants are open, 156 travel agencies are open.

 

Under the Dome

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Many wait for weeks to secure a reservation to the Reichstag in Berlin.

We talked our way in!

Let me explain…

A friend of mine, Vadim, showed me a historic photograph, taken on May 2, 1945 by Yevgeny Khaldei, of two Soviet soldiers raising the flag of the Soviet Union atop the Reichstag building during the Battle of Berlin on May 2, 1945.  Regarded as one of the most recognizable images of World War II, I remembered seeing it before, but never realized that it had been taken up on the Reichstag.

Vadim, a Russian by birth, wanted to visit the site of this picture, an important point in Soviet history, symbolizing the victory of the USSR over Germany.   Checking the Reichstag website and discovering that visits were allowed by reservation only, he also discovered that the only reservations available for the next day were much earlier than our scheduled arrival.

Deciding to fill out the reservation form despite not being able to make the time slot and applying for a party of five, he included a note explaining that we would not actually be arriving in Berlin until much later…”Would it be okay to use the reservation later in the day?”  Though he received a confirmation, it was apparent that it was auto-generated and no one had actually read his comments.

Later in the day, we made our way to the Reichstag, confirmation in hand, not really expecting to be allowed admittance.  Approaching a security official, we explained our situation and we were allowed us inside to speak to another official.

Security entrance.

First hurdle down…our foot was in the door.

Relating our story once again, we were shocked when the official returned, after checking with another person of authority,  and informed us that we would be allowed inside.  YES!

“Passports please.”

What?  No one told us that we needed to bring our passports!  Explaining that we did not realize that passports were necessary, we offered our drivers licenses.  Thankfully, this was acceptable!

Second hurdle down.

As the official checked off our names, it was apparent that Vadim had made up our birthdays (I love him…he thinks I am eight years younger!).  Crossing off the registered dates, surprisingly, he corrected each and uttered no complaint…until…the last name.  One of the women registered to visit was not present…instead, another had come in her place.

A look of frustration crossed his face and I think we all half-expected to be thrown out of the building.  Again, he left the table to speak with his superior.

We all thought, “This is where he returns with a big, fat, German NO”. “Nein!”

As he returned to his chair, he looked down at his manifest, crossed out the erroneous name, wrote in the replacement and directed us to the security checkpoint.

We were in!

Now what?  Honestly, I have to admit that aside from knowing that this was a historic building, we really did not know what we were going in to see.  After ascending to the roof and receiving our complimentary audio guide, we headed out to the dome to find out.

The Reichstag building was opened in 1894 and was modeled after the Memorial Hall in Philidelphia to house the Imperial Diet of the German Empire.  After being severely damaged by fire in 1933, the building was abandoned for its original intent, as the parliament of the German Democratic Republic (the Volkskammer) met in the Palast der Republik in East Berlin and the parliament of the Federal Republic of Germany (the Bundestag) met in the Bundeshaus in Bonn.  The building was further damaged by air raids and during the Battle of Berlin in 1945, it was captured by the Red Army.

Although an attempt was made in the 1960s to refurbish the building, a full restoration was finally completed after the German reunification on October 3, 1990.  At the culmination of the project, the building once again became the meeting place of the Bundestag.

As we entered the large dome which sits atop the Reichstag, we admired the 360-degree views of Berlin while ascending the steel ramps that curve upwards to the top of the dome.  Our audio guides continued to give commentary, but changed from the history of the building to the surrounding landscapes and buildings in the city.  At the top of the dome, the opening allows for ventilation and there is seating available for those wishing to take a rest and enjoy the views.

The main hall and debating chamber of the Bundestag could be seen through the glass enclosure beneath the mirrored cone at the center of the dome.  This cone directs light into the Riechstag, increasing energy efficiency and giving visitors a view of the parliamentary proceedings when in action.  Reservations can also be made to witness a pleinary session from within the chamber when available.

 

Visiting the Reichstag dome is something that all should try to accomplish while in Berlin.  Although we were extremely excited that we were able to gain entry to this historic monument, I do wish that we had been a little better informed.  One of the items of interest, that I realized later that we had missed, was the cyrillic graffiti left behind by Soviet soldiers after the seige in 1945.  This historical defacing has been carefully preserved and can be seen during visits to the Reichstag.

I guess we will have talk our way in again on a future visit!

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The Reichstag Building

  • https://www.bundestag.de/en/visittheBundestag/dome/registration/245686
  • Address:  Platz der Republik 1, 11011 Berlin, Germany
  • Hours:  Daily from 0800 until 2400 with last admission at 2200.  Closed all day on December 24 and after 1600 on December 31.  Also, the dome will be closed from March 13-17, July 17-21 and from October 9-13 for cleaning and maintenance.  The roof terrace will still be accessible.
  • Admission:  free with admission (by reservation) every quarter of the hour
  • Registration requests must be submitted online with a complete list of participants.  The following information is required for each person:  surname, first name and date of birth.   For those who have not booked in advance, you may register at the service center near the Reichstag Building.  If any free spots are available, you will be issued a booking confirmation.  You can also register to visit with the next two days.  Registration requires first and last names and date of birth.  Identification matching reservations will be required for admittance.
  • Getting There:  Bus number 100 and the M41 both stop at the  Reichstag.  The nearest U-Bahn station is the Bundestag.  The Reichstag is also a short walk from Berlin’s main rail station, Hauptbahnhof.

Brandenburger Tor

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One of the most recognizable landmarks in Europe is the Brandenburger Tor, or Brandenburg Gate.

The first time I ever laid eyes on this magnificent piece of architecture, it confirmed my presence in Berlin.  Yes, I knew I was in Berlin, but standing before it…well, I was really there!

Built between 1788 and 1791 on the orders of the Prussian King, Frederick William II, by Carl Gotthard Langhans, it was the key entry point to the city, marking the start of the road from Berlin to the town of Brandenburg an der Havel, the former capital of the Margraviate of Brandenburg.

Located in the western part of the city center, the gate stands near the Reichstag building, which houses the German parliament, and is the monumental entry to Unter den Linden, the renowned boulevard of linden trees which leads to the Royal City Palace.  Though most of Berlin was destroyed at the end of the war, the iconic gate survived, albeit with heavy damage.  Though East and West Berlin attempted restoration, once the wall was erected, access to the gate, located in East Berlin was eliminated.

As you stand before the gate, its most notable feature is the Quadriga, the statue which depicts the goddess of victory driving a chariot pulled by four horses.  The statue remained in place for over a decade before Napoleon decided that the statue be dismantled and shipped to Paris.  Remaining in storage until 1814, it was returned to Berlin when Paris was captured by Prussian soldiers following Napoleon’s defeat.  When the statue was remounted atop the gate, one change was made…an iron cross was added to represent Prussia’s military victory over France.   During Berlin’s communist era, the cross was removed, but restored in 1990 during the unification of Germany.  Today, the Quadrica grandly sits atop the gate for all to admire.

Many historical events have also taken place at the Brandenburg Gate.

When Hitler came to power in 1933, he was treated to a torchlight procession through Berlin which passed under the gate en route to the presidential palace.

Thirty years later, in 1963, after the Berlin Wall was erected, former U.S. President John F. Kennedy, delivered one of the most famous addresses of his presidency, to a crowd of more than 120,000 gathered near the Brandenburg Gate.  Most people remember this speech for Kennedy’s one phrase, “I am a Berliner” as they do for former President Reagan’s speech, also at the Brandenburg Gate, where he challenged Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev to “tear down this wall” in 1987.

Today, you can view a commemorative plaque which lies across Eberstrasse, which was unveiled at the 25th anniversary of Reagan’s historic address urging for peace.

 Although there are many landmarks that I have visited throughout Europe… London Bridge, the Eiffel Tower, Roman Coliseum, the Leaning Tower of Pisa…I have never been moved by one so much as this, remembering its historical significance.  Counting the bullet holes still remaining in the columns, the feelings that it invokes is indescribable. Though the Brandenburg Gate has undergone restoration over the years, it appears that construction of the subways line beneath the city and the heavy trucks that regularly make deliveries nearby have caused more cracks to appear in this amazing structure.  It is such a shame to think that one day, it might not be here.
Visit while you can…
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Checkin’ Out Checkpoint Charlie

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

“YOU ARE LEAVING THE AMERICAN SECTOR”…

was the sign (in English, Russian, French and German) that marked the main entry and departure point at the division of East and West Berlin during the Cold War.

From 1947 until 1991, Checkpoint Charlie was one of the best known border crossings.  It allowed diplomats, journalists and non-Germans to enter East Berlin on a one-day pass, but it is also known for another event in October of 1961.  It was here that U.S. and Soviet tanks faced off angrily…an incident that the world feared would lead to World War III.

Checkpoint Charlie and the Berlin Wall signified the division between East and West…capitalism and communism…opportunity and repression…until the wall was torn down on November 9, 1989.   It is hard to fathom how much has changed in Berlin and that it was only 28 years ago that Berlin was still a divided city.

Today, Checkpoint Charlie, it is one of the sights that every visitor should see due to its historical significance.  Although the wooden barrack where the visitors to East Berlin were required to pass through for vetting was removed, a US Army guardhouse and a copy of the original border sign stands in its place.  The original white booth that originally stood here, now resides in the Allierten Museum in Berlin-Dahlem.  The location of the wall can be spied in the roadway where cobblestones now mark the site and photographs of an American and a Soviet soldier stand tall.

Two gentlemen in military uniforms stand facing Zimmerstrasse and give tourists an idea of what entering Checkpoint Charlie would have been like.  Don’t expect them to pose for photos, however, one of them holds a flag and conveniently waves it in front of his face when he spies a camera pointed his way.   They will pose with you for a fee of 3€ and the other soldier will stamp your passport with commemorative stamps, for 2€.

While in Berlin, take a few moments to stop by Checkpoint Charlie and try to imagine how many stood here, trying to figure out a way to the other side.  You can also visit the Checkpoint Charlie Museum where you will learn about the Berlin Wall and the many daring escape attempts by East Germans.  An unbelieveable experience!

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Checkpoint Charlie

  • http://www.berlin.de/en/

Bear Hunting in Berlin!

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Throughout the city of Berlin…there are no lions or tigers…only bears!  Oh my!

The Buddy Bears are life-size fiberglass sculptures that have become unofficial ambassadors for Germany and symbols of Berlin since 2001.  Designed by Klaus and Eva Herlitz and sculptor Roman Strobl, the bears were created for an artistic event which aimed to bring art to the streets as other events did in many major cities of the world.

Promoting peace, international understanding and tolerance among nations, cultures and religions, the bear’s raised arms offer friendliness, optimism and quite often a positive mood…think of all those cute selfies!

There are four different designs…standing on all four paws, standing on two legs, standing on its head and a sitting position.  After the initial exhibit, many of the bears were sold at auctions which benefited child relief organizations.

Today, the Berlin Buddy Bears can be found on private premises, in front of hotels and embassies as well as in the foyers of various office buildings.

It is always exciting to be out walking and come across these fantastic sculptures!  If you think they are as adorable as I do and want to seek out some amazingly, unique selfies from the German capitol..I dare you, go bear hunting!

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The Berlin Buddy Bears

 

El Coz

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The Ritz Carlton it’s not…

But, then again, I probably won’t ever stay at the Ritz Carlton.  Nothing personal… they have lovely properties.  They are just very expensive!

My husband likes higher-end hotels.  Me?  As long as it’s clean, safe and in a good location, that’s good enough for me.  After all, I’m never in my room except to sleep!  My money is better spent on enjoying the location.

As my son and I decided to venture out to Cozumel at the last minute, we had minimal time to make hotel arrangements.  Finding a few properties that were all-inclusive and at great rates, was a bonus!  Trouble was, I didn’t quite remember how Cozumel was laid out.  With the clock ticking, we had to make a decision.  Having narrowed our list down to five properties, we began to compare them…number of bars and restaurants, location of the room type, available wi-fi (and if for a charge), beach size, number of pools, etc.

Eventually, we decided on the El Cozumeleño for its ocean front room, balcony and free wi-fi…and more importantly, the price.

After our arrival into Cozumel, we hired one of the shared buses to take us to our hotel in the north zone.  As we traveled to this end of the island, one of the things I noticed was that other hotels and a couple of restaurants were nearby, but nothing else.  This did not present a problem with meals as we were staying at an all-inclusive property, however, there was not going to be a quick walk into town and it did not appear that there was any kind of bus system.

Our first impression of the hotel was that it was neat, clean and well presented.  The lobby areas had plenty of seating and a large check-in desk.

The hotel staff was extremely pleasant and our room was ready at check-in.  Our room was far from luxurious and a little dated, but extremely clean and one of the largest I have stayed in, with a balcony, sitting area with a pull-out couch and bathroom divided into two parts, toilet and shower and sink/vanity area.

During check-in, I was informed that the restaurant behind the lobby bar, La Veranda, required reservations (which we had just missed making), but there was one other restaurant, El Cocal, the buffet, which was located outside between the two pools as well as the availability of room service and a snack bar adjacent to the poolside bar.  We decided to try El Cocal, that evening and made reservations for La Veranda for the next.

Over the course of our trip, we never did get to try room service, however, we much preferred La Veranda for dinner.  Breakfast at this locale was very good, however, the service was slow, so for the other two mornings, we dined at the buffet and also had lunch there and at the snack bar near the poolside bar.  Overall, our opinion is that breakfast and lunch should be taken at the buffet unless time is not of the essence.  Dinner should definitely be taken at La Veranda.

El Cocal
Dessert at La Veranda

A full list of activities (ping pong tournament, exercise classes, etc) for each day was located at the towel exchange and snorkel equipment (free for 1 hour of use each day or for a daily charge) and golf clubs were available for the on-site mini-golf…an entire 18 holes, which we played a few times…a very challenging course!  There was also a large-scale chess set located near the pool.

The pools were spacious and clean and a there was plenty of seating, however, the beach chairs that were not under the few thatched umbrellas were of a strange shape and collected rainwater.  A nice row of hammocks lay between the main pool and the beach and two jacuzzis were situated near the pools.  The beach area was a bit rocky and it would be best to wear water shoes to enter and exit the water.  We did attempt to snorkel, however, although there were quite a few fish,  the remaining reef was not in good shape.

Three bars were located on the premises, one in the lobby, one in the pool as a swim-up bar and one adjacent to the pool and the buffet.  The servers were always very friendly and eager to recommend new, delicious drinks.

Overall, the resort was good, though in desperate need of evening entertainment and activities.  Our main complaints, however, were concerning the location, wi-fi and the hotels elevators.

For those who prefer to always remain on the resort, its seclusion may be a plus, however, I enjoy having the ability to take public transportation to other areas of the city that we are staying in for shopping and sightseeing.  Yes, there were cabs, however, one-way cab fare to town, was about $10 and there was always a discrepancy between being quoted in pesos and dollars.  If we were quoted 100 pesos and you checked the daily conversion rate in U.S. dollars, that would have been about $6.00.  If you asked what the rate was in dollars, you would be told $10.00.

Another issue was the on-site car rental.  They realize that they have a captive audience.  Deciding to rent a car so that we could check out the island and some of the attractions, I was a shocked to hear that the car rental price was about $74.00 (after taxes for automatic transmission and about $10 less for manual transmission).  After checking out prices on line, I found that rental rates from the airport were about half that price.  Had I given this some forethought, it would have been about the same price to rent the car at the airport and keep it for the three days, as we also paid $17 each way to and from the airport.  With that option, we could have had a little more freedom.

Wi-fi was one of the the deciding factors for us.  Remembering our resort in Punta Cana and the high daily rate they charged for slow service, we decided that we did not want to be cut off from our family and friends.  What we learned, however, was that while wi-fi was advertised as complimentary, it was only available in the lobby and it was extremely slow.  We could text and look up information on the internet, however, we could not upload pictures to Facebook, Instagram and Snapchat.

The other major problem with this hotel was that while we were there, a tropical disturbance in the Gulf of Mexico was causing massive amounts of rain.  This was not the resort’s fault.  El Cozumeleño’s fault is that the elevators faced the outside and were subject to the elements.  Many times we found the elevators inoperable and were directed to the service elevator, which sometimes was also not working.  Being on the eighth floor, it was not always an option to be running up and down the stairs of which parts were open to the outside and were extremely wet.

A friend recently asked me for recommendations for all-inclusive hotels on Cozumel.  Would I recommend El Cozumeleño?  Overall, we had a nice time and for the price, it was a good deal as well as safe and clean.  Personally though, I think maybe I would try something a little different on a future trip, possibly on a different part of the island.  But, if you like seclusion and to be cut off from the world…this is your place!  If not, rent a car at the airport.

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El Cozumeleño

  • http://www.elcozumeleno.com/default.cfm
  • Address:  Playa Santa Pilar KM 4.5 Zona Hotelera Norte, 77600 San Miguel de Cozumel, Mexico
  • Shared ride service from the airport:  $17.00 US (for two persons)
  • Cab service from the hotel to the airport:  $17.00

A Vibrant Village

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Mayan ruins dot the landscape throughout Mexico.

On Cozumel, two archaelogical sites are easily accessible to tourists…

San Gervasio is the largest and located in the central part of Cozumel.

The smallest, but oldest, El Cedral, is located near the south coast.

Having never heard of El Cedral, we were anxious to check out this small fertility temple, dating back to 800 AD.  Once functioning as a jail in the 19th century, it is located in a small village and is thought to have been an important ceremonial site.

As we drove through the arched entrance, it was late afternoon and we wondered if our arrival might be too late.  Passing through a gate, we traveled down a long rural road before arriving at the front of the village.

A central plaza spread before us with a large, covered pavilion, lined with brightly covered flags.  A nearby covered structure contained a large number of inscribed benches and there were a few vendor’s storefronts as well as the Hacienda Tequila Museum, which offers tequila tastings.

Not seeing a ruin or signs directing us to one, we turned left and drove around the village.  What a treat!  Brightly colored houses, with festive crosses and art displays greeted us at every corner.

As we made the full circle, back to the front of the village, a kindly villager stopped our car to direct us to the location of the ruin and showed us a parking location.

Festive statues greeted us at the front of the pavilion and after walking through the pavilion, we found the temple located at the far, left end.  Not very impressive and having no ornamentation, the ruin sits next to the highlight of the village, a small stucco church, which is known to be the first church on the island, the Church of El Cedral.

The church, rather small and simple,  is light and airy although its seating does not appear to be very comfortable.  On the altar were three small garments that appeared to be draped over three crucifixes.  I was quite curious about these, but with no one nearby, I was unable to find out more.

Knowing that the large pavilion in the center of town houses a five-day festival, Féria El Cedral, which brings people from all over Mexico at the end of April or early May, to enjoy the festivities, I had no idea that these crosses had anything to do with it.

Once we had walked around the church, we returned to visit one of the the souvenir shops.  Here, I found out more.

Legend has it that 150 years ago, a young man by the name of Casimiro Cárdenas was attacked during the Caste War in the town of Saban.  Though the enemies killed his companions, Cárdenas survived the massacre by hiding under other bodies, while clutching a cross, an event which came to be known as the Miricle of Saban. So strongly that Cárdenas believed that the cross was the reason he survived that he vowed to honor the cross even as he later settled in El Cedral.  Soon after arriving in the town, he and the other immigrants celebrated the first services to honor the holy cross in which after praying, they received the toche (blessing with the cross).  Invitations were also extended to the residents of the main town of Cozumel, a tradition that still continues.

The pavilion is where the traditional and folkloric events are performed and many other events are held in conjunction with the festival…horse racing, rooster fights, rodeo, concerts and bullfighting.  Large quantities of food are prepared and consumed and commemorative merchandise is sold throughout the event.   The Pigs Head dance, in which dancers carry a decorated pig’s head, is one of the culminating events of the festivities.

After the death of Casimiro Cárdenas, his wife continued the festivities and today, his descendants are the keepers of the holy cross of Sabán.  The festival is held between April 23 with prayers commencing at dawn and end on May 3rd with a traditional dance “Cabeza de Cerdo”, symbolizing Jesus Christ’s sacrifice.

While making the drive around Cozumel, take a half hour out of your day to visit El Cedral, a town steeped in tradition and history.  Very easy to find, it is located 3 km west of Carretera Costera Sur.  The turnoff is near Km 17, across from the Alberto’s Restaurant sign.  And, if you are on the island during festival season, be sure and visit…and tell us about it!

 

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El Cedral Village, Church and Archaeological Ruins

  • Hours:  Open daily
  • Admission:  free
  • How to Get There:   Located 3 km west of Carretera Costera Sur.  The turnoff is near Km 17, across from the Alberto’s Restaurant sign.

All About Antibes

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Seen it all in Nice?  Head to Antibes!

Founded by the Greeks over 2000 years ago with the name Antipolis, modern day Antibes and the nearby chic commune of Juan le Pins are havens for sun seekers during the warmest months of the year.  Forty eight beaches beckon tourists from all over the world and world class restaurants, bars, boutiques, markets and museums nourish and entertain.

With so many things to see in this quaint town, I was undecided as to where to begin.  After my tour of Fort Carré was complete and I had ogled one too many yachts, I walked into Old Town through one of the city’s gates.   Taking a picturesque walk along one the 10th century ramparts that surround the city, I admired the Mediterranean Sea and stopped to hop up on the wall, enjoy a cool coconut gelato and gaze upon the Plage de la Gravette, where many a sun worshiper was basking in the afternoon warmth.

Hearing the church bells toll from a nearby bell tower, I headed into Old Town and to the 18th century church of the Immaculate Conception (Antibes Cathedral).  Here, I discovered a brilliantly hued structure built in the 11th century on the site of an ancient pagan temple and with stones used from earlier Roman fabrications.  The interior was not as impressive as I had hoped, but contained some notable pieces such as a Baroque altarpiece, the 16th century Virgin of the Rosary by Louis Bréa which depicts Christ as a child, being held by Mary with cherubs in the background.   You can also observe a life-sized wood carving of Christ’s death.

Moving on from the cathedral, I soon found myself at the Marché Provençal, a covered market close to the harbor which offers fresh selections of meats, fishes, cheeses and vegetables every day.  As I wandered through building, I also discovered many local craftsmen offering handicrafts available for purchase as well as some artists displaying their talents.

The day was drawing to a close, and I wanted to visit the Castle of Antibes, which is home to the world renowned Picasso Museum.  Containing one of the greatest Picasso collections, the museum draws hardcore fans from far and wide to view the twenty-four paintings, forty-four drawings, thirty-two lithographs, eleven oils on paper, eighty pieces of ceramics, two sculptures and five tapestries. Visiting the place where Picasso lived on the sea for six months, however, was not to be.  Having written down the incorrect closing time, I arrived as the doors were being locked!

Not quite ready for dinner, a bit of shopping was in order before realizing that I was soon meandering (my favorite thing to do) the alleyways and streets of the city.  This soon became my favorite part of the day…with so many little idiosyncrasies to discover!  Horse heads, seashell decorations, nooks and crannies, vividly painted walls, various types of ornamentation, brilliantly colored doors and shutters…it was impossible to imagine what might be around the next corner!  Who needs a Picasso museum when you have a real live art gallery on every street?

While you could spend countless hours at the beach in Antibes and thoroughly enjoy yourself, make a point of exploring the Old Town…the cultural heart of the Côte d’Azur!

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Antibes

Cathedral of Our-Lady of the Immaculate Conception in Antibes

Marché Provençal

http:/1828 Cours Masséna, 06600 Antibes, France

Musée Picasso