architecture – Page 31 – Snapping The Globe

Cloudy and Gaudi

If you love both architecture and Barcelona, you can’t help but think of Antoni Gaudi the Spanish Catalan architect, whose work was influenced by the passions in his life, mainly architecture, nature and religion. When in Barcelona, it is an absolute must to see Gaudi’s masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia and interesting to visit Unesco Heritage Sites Parque Guell, Casa Batló and Casa Milà, all designed by Gaudi. (Later this year, Casa Vicens will be open to the public as a museum, as well).

Rain had been in the forecast for Barcelona all week and I had hoped that as the time went on, that maybe the forecast would change for the better. No dice…when we landed, there were raindrops all of over the airplane windows and it was dark and gloomy outside.

Pondering the many things to do in Barcelona, I had originally thought of taking the bus to Parque Guell if the weather was nice. Obviously, this wasn’t going to happen. My second idea was to re-visit Sagrada Familia; it had been three years since I had last toured the impressive church. Definitely worth a second visit, I checked the website for available tickets, however, the only time slot available was 7:00 pm. Not wanting the pressure of trying to squeeze in something before and having to make it there for the admission time, I decided it probably wasn’t the day to do it.

Since Gaudi was on my mind and I had visited Casa Batló last year, Casa Milà caught my eye. Just down the street from Casa Batló on Passeig de Gràcia, it was an easy bus ride from my hotel. And….I would be indoors in the event that the weather was not optimum.

Not raining any longer, but still quite cloudy and threatening, we took the number 7 bus down to Passeig de Gràcia near the Diagonal Metro Station. Disembarking, we walked down the street and proceeded to get in line with the hordes of people that were where we assumed was Casa Milà. Thankfully, I looked up at the building and realized that it looked very familiar. We were not at Casa Milà, but Casa Batló, as we had walked in the wrong direction! Without having wasted much time, we headed in the opposite direction and soon came to the correct destination, Casa Milà. Here, thankfully, there was a very short line and as we stood in the queue, the sky began to clear and we actually saw a bit of sunshine.

Built from 1906 to 1912 as two apartment blocks with separate entrances and linked by two large courtyards, Casa Milà was erected as a family home for Pere Milà i Camps and his wife Roser Segimon i Artells, but with apartments for rent. The building’s facade is compromised of undulating stone with twisting wrought iron balconies and windows. It resembles an open quarry, thus earning the nickname, La Pedrera. Casa Milà was Gaudi’s fourth and final work that he did on Passeig de Gràcia, which was the main avenue of Barcelona at the time.

As we began the long climb up to the top of the building, we passed some of the apartments that share the space. We exited the stairwell onto the Roof Terrace, and were in awe of the sight before us. Many architectural sculptures stood before us which serve the building artistically as well as practically as stairwells, ventilation towers and chimneys. There were many a picture here on the terrace and from the building as the Sagrada Familia and multiple parts of the city could be viewed from here. I learned later that the Roof Terrace closes when it is raining, so we were extremely fortunate that the weather was cooperating at that time…a little cloudy, but overall dry.

The next space to visit, was the Espai Gaudi. This spectacular attic space, with its arched ceiling devotes itself to Gaudi’s work. The 270 catenary arches of various heights support the Roof Terrace and is an amazing display of architectural genius.

The Pedrera Apartment recreates the life of a bourgeois family in Barcelona during the early twentieth century. Located on the fourth floor, the apartment is decorated with period furniture, works of art, ornaments, fabrics and household accessories. Displayed here, not only the way of life during the time period, but the eloquent architecture.

Finally, on the lower level of the building is the Courtyard. Looking up to the open air above where the Roof Terrace is located, this space aids with light and ventilation. Colorful murals adorn the ceilings and walls of the lobbies and main staircase. At the top of the staircase, the Exhibition Hall is located. This main floor was the former residence of the Milà’s and displays the open-floor plan used by Gaudi.

As our visit to La Pedrera was complete, we were shocked to see how much time had passed. So absorbed in the building and all that it offered, we had spent almost three hours taking in this astonishing architecture! An interesting way to spend an afternoon, we learned that we could return at another time to experience Casa Milà by Night which offers multiple projections in the stairwells and Passeig de Gràcia Courtyard as well as an extraordinary audiovisual show on the Roof Terrace. Truly a remarkable, well-rounded experience!

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Casa Milà “La Pedrera”

https://www.lapedrera.com/ca/home
Address: Passeig de Gràcia, 92. 08008, Barcelona
Hours: Monday to Sunday, 9:00 to 20:30
Hours: La Pedrera by Night, Monday to Sunday, 21:00 to 23:00
Admission: La Pedrera by Day, Adults, 20.50€, Students, 16.50€, Children (7-12), 10.25€, Children (under 7), free. Includes audio guide.
Admission: La Pedrera by Day and Night, Adults, 39.50€, Children (7-12), 19.75€, Children (under 7), free. Includes audio guide.
Admission: La Pedrera Premium, Adults, 27.00€, Children (7-12), 10.25€, Children (under 7), free. Includes guide book, audio guide and premium admission with no waiting.
How to get there: Bus, 7, 16, 17, 24 and V17. Metro, lines 3 and 5, station Diagonal. FGC, Provença-La Pedrera. RENFE, Passeig de Gràcia

Kerameikos Cemetery

Having visited Athens on many occasions, I have seen the Acropolis, more than once, as well as many of the archaeological sites throughout the city. After a bit of research, I discovered one archaeological site that I had not explored on my other sojourns…Kerameikos, the thirty centuries old cemetery located on the northwest fringe of the city.

Hurrying through my impromptu church tour, I wanted to enter the cemetery before it’s early closing at 3:00 pm due to the Holy Week schedule. Having read many good things about the cemetery, I was determined to arrive with enough time to visit both the grounds and the museum.

Easy to reach, by walking the length of Ermou Street or via the metro (Keramiekos station, line 3), Kerameikos is just past the Monistiraki Flea Market and the Ancient Agora. Near the end of Ermou, there is signage pointing you in the correct direction and you can actually gaze upon the ruins below though the gates while walking to the entrance.

After paying my entrance fee of 2 euro, I made my way to the neo-classical styled museum. Informed by the ladies in the ticket office that the museum would take about 40 minutes, I started first by inspecting the statuary located outside under the portico, then finally moving in to the interior. Here, there is a vast display of burial-related artifacts, including marble sculptures, funerary urns, pottery, jewelry and toys. Most notable is the stunning bull, in the interior courtyard, from the tomb of Dionysios of Kollytos. A large number of original burial monument sculptures and grave markers are displayed at the museum in the outer courtyard, with plaster replicas replacing in them in their original sites.

The immense number of grave markers, located just outside of the museum are small and plain and not quite what one would expect in a graveyard, resembling more of an ancient road marker or small sign post. These stark gravestones resulted from a a decree in 317 BC that prohibited more elaborate monuments, such as those with statues, that were in vogue at the time. After passing the grave markers while exiting the museum, I moved out to the paths that clearly define and move you throughout the site.

The ancient district of Kerameikos was located within the city walls of Athens with many ceramic workshops in the area. The outside part of Kerameikos served as the burial grounds. Located within Kerameikos was the Sacred Gate, and the start of the Sacred Way, or Iera Odos, which connected Athens with Eleusus and used by the many pilgrims traveling between the two cities during the procession of Panathenia. The Dipylon Gate, the main entrance to the city, was the spot where Pericles gave his most notable speech honoring those who died in the first year of the Peloponesian war. State graves were built on either side of the Dipylon Gate, for Athens notable warriors and statesmen, including Pericles and Cleisthenes. The Dipylon Gate was also the starting point of the ancient Dromos (Road) leading to the Platonic Academy.

The Pompeion, the preparation site for the Panathenaic procession in honor of Athena, was located between the Sacred Gate and the Dipylon Gate. The original building was destroyed in 88 BC during the conquest and plundering of Athens and the Building of the Warehouses replaced it in the 2nd Century AD. The Eridanos river which once passed through the Sacred Gate still flows beneath the site, having been covered over since the Roman period.

On the Street of Tombs, replicas of gravestones of some of the most prominent citizens of Athens, can be seen here. These graves were part of the public graveyard and these notable citizens were buried here at the public expense. The original gravestones are now housed in the National Museum.

Modern replicas of the burial monuments for Hegeso, daughter of Proxenios, and for Koroibos

Often overlooked by visitors, Kerameikos is one of the most significant historical monuments in Athens. Comprising much historical value, it assists visitors in understanding the ancient Athenian way of life and therefore is a “must-see”. The church of Agia Triada serves as a beautiful background to the cemetery and outstanding views of many other Athens sites can be seen from Kerameikos, such as the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill. The area has been planted with Mediterranean vegetation and is large and open. Not crowded and easy to navigate, the cemetery is a wonderful way to spend part of a day in Athens!

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Kerameikos Cemetery

Hours: April 1 to October 31, 08:00-19:30 daily, Monday 11:00-19:30, November 1 to March 31, 08:00-15:00 daily
Admission: 2€ regular admission, 1€ reduced
148, Ermou Street, Athens
http://www.athensinfoguide.com/open.htm (link to Athens Info Guide which contains information for Athens Museums and Archaeological sites)

Tom’s Place

When going to a city that I have visited many times before, sometimes it seems as though I have seen it all. Absolutely aware that I have not, it just sometimes feels that way when looking for new things to do and seemingly finding the same things suggested over and over.

In order to plan my layovers, I always do a Google search for things to do in a city, however, usually all of the common touristic things pop up that I have already experienced. Recently, I have been employing the search for offbeat things to do. Sometimes you find some really cool stuff (check out my post on the the Purgatory Museum in Rome, “Bones and Burns”!).

Last week, while investigating activities in Athens, Greece, I decided to look for any unique sights that I had not explored previously. With my offbeat search, I came across “Tom’s Place” on the Athens Info Guide website.

The home of Tom McGrath on 23 Iperidou Street, collapsed in the earthquake of 1999. Tom, described as a free spirit, was purported to still live on the property in a run-down room at the rear of the plot amidst a collection of strange objects displayed among the rubble…a vintage motorbike displayed near a car dubbed the Taliban Taxi…a pair of feet sticking out of a plywood coffin…a stuffed elephant peeping from a rubbish bin…a collection of offbeat signs and graffiti.

Marking my Google Maps on my Iphone, I decided that I would try to find this strange residence since my plans were to be in the area.

Setting out, I completed my errands and a few other bits of sightseeing. As I meandered through the Monistiraki Flea Market, near the Old Agora, I checked my map and adjusted my route to take me in the direction of Iperidou Street. As I was nearing the destination, I started looking out for the strange artistic assemblage, but what I stumbled upon was not what I was expecting. There on the street corner, was a plywood barricade with crumbling bricks peeking out behind the tops and a dilapidated doorway amidst a decaying facade. The walls were painted a bright blue and contained a mass of political messages. At first, I was not sure that this was the right place…until I stepped around the corner and discovered, Tom’s Donation Box!

This was absolutely the right place, but how disappointing to not be able to see Tom’s odd collection, I thought, as I looked for an unlocked door or window to peek through.

As I looked across the street, I noticed a sign hanging on a door…Tom’s Corner Plaka. Hmmm. Could Tom be living there? As I lifted my camera up to take a picture of the sign, the door opened and man stepped outside and began to lock the door behind him.

It had to be Tom!

As he walked across the street, I hesitated for a split second before calling out (and thinking that I must be insane) to him. “Are you Tom?”. He seemed to freeze for a second, even as he walked, not knowing whether or not to answer. Then, as if his curiosity got the best of him, he said, “Yes, I am Tom”. He began to walk toward me.

Introducing myself to him, I explained that I had come to see his collection of oddities that I had read about and was disappointed to see that his home was boarded up. He then said to me, “You must have been reading Lonely Planet. Very inaccurate it is.”

Explaining that I had read about him on the internet, but not sure where, I had thought his home would be interesting to see. Tom explained that he had been required to board up his residence as it was deemed an eyesore, but now lived across the street. We then began a conversation that went on to last about 30 minutes and covered many topics from the Presidential Race in the United States (he thinks Trump is interesting), to where he grew up (Belfast, Ireland) and on to Pan American Airways (he used to drive their crew bus).

Realizing that he had been leaving when I interrupted him, I tried many times to end the conversation, not wanting to keep him…but he kept on talking! Quite the character, he was extremely entertaining and funny and I found myself enjoying my time there on the curb of Iperidou Street.

Finally, I insisted that I not keep him from his errands and I bade him a farewell. After finding out that I was a flight attendant, he inquired as to the frequency of my visits to Athens and demanded that I come and visit him again the next time I was in town…I also had to agree to bring friends! We finally shook hands and went on our way!

Leaving Tom’s Place, I was happy that I had stumbled across the suggestion in the Off the Beaten Path section of the Athen’s Info Guide. Feeling happy that I had succeeded in my task and accomplished way more than marking off something from my sightseeing list…I had made a new friend! Traveling is not only about seeing and experiencing things, but about meeting unique and interesting people along the way. That, my friends, is worth way more than the admission price to the Acropolis!

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Tom’s Place

Read about it on Athen’s Info Guide: http://www.athensinfoguide.com/otbp.htm
How to get there: Take metro to Syntagma stop. Walk across Sytagma Square to the start of Mitropoleos Street heading west, then take a left on to Voulis. Take a right on Iperidou. Tom’s place is on the corner of Iperidou and Sotiros.

Palacio Real de Madrid

Sad and disappointed at having been turned away at the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales, finding an alternative way to occupy my afternoon was now a priority.

Having been in Madrid many times, I knew that both the Opera House or Teatro Real and the Royal Palace were a short walk from my location. Heading first to the Teatro Real and remembering once having to return for the tour, as it is conducted at predetermined times, I decided bypass this attraction. Continuing my walk, I ventured through the Plaza de Oriente to the Palacio Real de Madrid.

Standing on the site of the former Alcazar of Madrid, a medieval fortress transformed into a lavish palace by John II, Charles V and Phillip II, who in 1561 made it the official residence of the Spanish Monarchy, the current building’s construction began in 1738. With the completion in 1751, Charles III was the first ruler to install his court within the palace in 1764. Although, now presently the official residence of the Spanish Royal Family in the city of Madrid, the palace is only used for state ceremonies. King Felipe VI and the Royal Family choose to reside in the Palacio de la Zarzuela on the outskirts of Madrid.

After entering the security checkpoint and purchasing your ticket, you enter the Plaza de la Armeria. Standing in this vast courtyard, you are rewarded with spectacular views of the palace and the Catedral de la Almudena directly across and outside the palace gates.

Upon entering the palace, a turn to the right encounters the Grand Staircase, composed of a single piece of San Agustin marble and graced by two lions on the landing. Glancing upward, the magnificent frescoes on the ceiling, by Corrado Giaquinto, and depicting the Religion Protected by Spain takes one’s breath away. Before climbing the stairway, take a minute to glace back at the statue of Charles III in Romantoga.

“Religion Protected by Spain”, ceiling frescoe by Corrado Giaquinto

The tour is self-guided and takes you through many elaborately embellished chambers, including King Charles III’s Apartments, the Queen’s Apartment’s and Banqueting hall, Apartments of Infante Luis, including the Musical Instruments Room, The Royal Chapel and the Crown Room.

Apartments of Luis Infante, Musical Instruments Room

Photos are allowed when entering and on the Grand Staircase, however, are not allowed throughout the first floor and is strictly enforced. Having mastered the art of sneaking a few shots, I was able to get a few photos within some of the rooms using my iPhone.

After your tour of the main palace is complete, walk out to the back of the palace and gaze upon the Campo del Moro Gardens and the exquisite view beyond. The gardens here are so named because in 1109, during an attempted reconquest of Madrid, Muslim leader Ali ben Yusuf, allegedly camped here with his troops.

Continue walking to the front right corner of the premises, while facing Catedral de la Almudena, and enter the Real Armeria or the Royal Armory. The armory is considered one of the world’s best, housing pieces from as early as the 13th century. Tournament pieces made for Charles V and Philip II and full armor and weapons that Emperor Charles V used in the Battle of Muhlberg are the highlights of the collection.

Quite glad that I noticed the small Royal Armory sign before I left the palace, I had curiously ventured over to this corner of the Plaza de la Armeria. Worth taking the time to enter, it was something that my son and I had missed a couple of years ago. Again, pictures are not allowed in these quarters and it is an extreme shame, as there are a vast number of beautiful pieces.

The Palacio de Real Madrid is an historic part of the city and certainly a must-see on a visit to Madrid. Combine it with a visit to the Teatro Real, the Monastery de las Descalzas or the Catedral de Almudena, all within the same area. Take a few minutes to wander through the adjacent Plaza de Oriente, admiring the fountain and the many statues nestles within the gardens. And lastly, combine it with a nice meal at the many restaurants located in the area or at the nearby Plaza Mayor, maybe stopping to browse at some of the local’s artwork that line the street. All in all, much history and culture can be experienced in this one area of the city.

Metro stop nearest to Teatro Real and Palace

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Palacio de Real Madrid

http://www.patrimonionacional.es/en/real-sitio/palacios/6039
Calle de Bailén, s/n, 28071 Madrid, Spain
Hours: Royal Palace, October-March, 10:00-18:00, April-September, 10:00-20:00. Ticket office closes and last entry one hour prior to posted closing.
Hours: Campo Del Moro, October-March, 10:00-18:00, April-September, 10:00-20:00
Admission: €10, children under 5 years, free
Metro: Lines 5 and 2, Opera Station.

Meandering Thru Mainz

One of my favorite things to do in a city is take a walk with a loosely based plan just to see what I find….architecture, sculpture, landscapes, places to eat…

Mainz is a quaint city, with old world charm and impressive architecture. During World War II eighty percent of the buildings in Mainz were destroyed by allied bombings, however, many remain, some dating back to the 12th century and medieval times, and the new construction has been designed to compliment the existing.

Sunday is a wonderful day to meander thru Mainz as most businesses are closed and there is not much traffic navigating the streets. Taking in the allure of the city on an uncrowded sidewalk allows for full appreciation of the artistry of the city.

If loosely wandering is not to your liking, try downloading a walking tour app such as GPSmyCity which allows you to choose many different walking tours or even customize your own. But even when trying out a structured tour, keep yourself open to other things you may discover, as there are many…

Things you might encounter near your hotel…

Things you might encounter while on your way to other places…

Things you might encounter while lost…and sometimes those are the best!

Next time in a new city or even one you are familiar with, take the time to slow down…look up…look down…look all around. Take in everything around you!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.com.

http://www.gpsmycity.com/tours/mainz-architecture-4726.html

Grand Dom

As you walk through the heart of Mainz, you encounter an impressive collection of beautifully decorated buildings and sculptures in the Domplatz (or Marktplatz). Among these structures, the 1000 year old Roman Catholic cathedral still stands even after eighty percent of the city was destroyed during World War II.

St. Martin’s Cathedral (also known as the Mainzer Dom or The Dom), of which construction began in 975 AD, was continually rebuilt and restored, finally reaching its present configuration mainly in the 13th and 14th centuries. Predominantly Romanesque in style and modeled at St. Peter’s in Rome, it has survived seven fires and endured many exterior additions over many centuries that have resulted in the appearance of various architectural influences seen today.

The cathedral features a “High” altar and sanctuary at the East end dedicated to St. Stephen and a choir, presbytery and main altar for Mass at the West end. All pews face west. There is also a small double tiered Roman chapel, once the Bishop’s private chapel, on the southwest corner which is set aside for private prayer. The interior of the cathedral houses tombs and funerary monuments of former powerful electoral-prince-archbishops of the diocese and contains many ancient religious works of art.

Many of the supporting pillars along the aisles of the nave are decorated with carved and painted statues of German and French saints. Among the most impressive furnishings in the sanctuary are rococo choir stalls and an early 14th century pewter baptismal font. Because the interior of the cathedral was constructed from the local red sandstone, it can be a little dark, which may motivate the spiritually moved to light one of the many votive candles available for prayer intentions.

After exploring the interior of the cathedral, take a few minutes to experience the tranquility of the courtyard which contains statues of Saint Boniface and The Madonna. If time allows, visit the cathedral’s Diocesan Museum which houses a collection of religious art and exhibitions of reliquaries and medieval sculpture.

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St. Martin’s Cathedral (Mainz Cathedral)

http://www.mainz-dom.de/
Address: Markt 10, 55116 Mainz, Germany
Hours: March-October, Monday-Friday, 9:00-18:30, Saturday, 9:00-16:00, Sunday, 12:45-15:00 and 16:00-18:30. November-February, Monday-Friday, 9:00-17:00, Saturday, 9:00-15:30, Sunday, 12:45-15:00 and 16:00-17:00
Admission: free, donations accepted
Services: High Mass, Sundays, 10:00. Vesper service, 15:00. Additional masses on Sundays, 7:00, 8:00, 11:30. Weekdays, 6:25, 7:30, 8:15 and 16:45.

Diocesan Museum

Museum Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 9:00-17:00
Museum Admission: Adults, € 5,00, Children, € 3,50

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Cathedral of Lima

The Cathedral of Lima, dedicated to St. John the Apostle and Evangelist, presides on the eastern side of the Plaza de Armas and is truly a magnificent work of art, a far cry from its modest beginnings.

It has been told that in January 18, 1535, the Spanish conquistador and founder of Lima, Francisco Pizarro placed the first stone, taken from an Inca temple located on this site, and carried over his shoulders the first log used in the construction of the Cathedral.

Over the years, many earthquakes have necessitated the repairs and reconstruction of the Cathedral, most notably the earthquakes of 1746 and 1940. Still retaining its colonial structure and facade, it is important to note when entering the structure, the three large doorways, which are in keeping with the majority of cathedrals. The main or central doorway is called the Portada del Perdon or the “door of forgiveness”. Above the doorways is the Peruvian seal and the phrase “Plus Ultra” rather than Lima’s coat of arms.

Carved in stone and ornamented with exquisite details and decorations, the front of the cathedral is flanked by the two high towers with spires of slate which were added around 1800.

After entering the cathedral and paying the entry fee of 10 sols, you are free to wander throughout the cathedral and the Religious Art Museum which is housed within the cathedral. A guided tour may be taken or one can self-guide through the Cathedral using the pamphlet dispersed with the ticket.

Due to the reparations stemming from the earthquakes, the interior is a sight to behold displaying a mix of late Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassic elements. Beautiful vaulted ceilings, checkerboard flooring, a gold plated main altar and intricately carved choir stalls are most notable, however, taking the time to inspect each of the fourteen chapels is highly recommended. A map is handed out to each guest, with your paid admission, detailing the side chapels. One of the chapels, opens on to Calle de Judios (Street of the Jews) and another on to the Patio de los Naranjos (Square of the Orange Trees), which is connected to the Cathedral.

The first chapel in the left aisle, holds the ancient baptistery. Ancient pictures found recently in this chapel, have been restored and are on display for the public. This chapel is followed by the Capilla de la Sagrada Familia (Chapel of the Holy Family) featuring figures of Jesus, Mary and Joseph. I highly recommend spending a few minutes admiring each chapel’s unique qualities.

As you make your way to rear of the Cathedral, you will find your way to the Religious Art Museum within the old sacristy. The museum displays a large collection of historical objects including painting, sculptures, furniture, jewelry, sacred vessels and religious vestments and robes of former archbishops.

Also at the rear of the Cathedral is a large crypt. Many remains can be seen here, including a display of skulls in a glass-fronted niche. Another oddity, a glass case situated in the floor, contains about a dozen or so extremely small coffins.

The tomb of Francisco Pizarro also is housed within the Cathedral as you walk in on the right hand side. A most interesting story, the mummified remains of the conquistador were on display in a glass casket in the Cathedral of Lima for almost a century. The remains were visited by Catholic and Spanish pilgrims and studied by historians. Imagine the shock when in 1977, workers uncovered a casket engraved with the words, “Here is the skull of the Marquis Don Francisco Pizarro who discovered and won Peru and placed it under the crown of Castile.”

Another unique find within the Cathedral is a tea shop opened a couple of years ago. When visiting La Teteria, visitors can choose from a menu of teas and nutritious baked pastries and breads. While the tea shop is housed within the Cathedral, it can be visited independently by simply asking at the main doors of the church.

Although I found the San Francisco Church to be much more impressive and beautiful, I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Cathedral. For the history buff and the architecturally obsessed, it is a must-see on your trip to Lima.

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Cathedral of Lima

Address: Jirón Carabaya, Lima 15001, Peru
Admission: 10 sols (about $3) includes admission to cathedral and museum. Combination ticket of 30 sols (about $9) includes the Archbishops Palace and the Cathedral, including museum
Hours: Monday-Friday 9:00-17:00, Saturday, 10:00-13:00, Sunday, 13:00-17:00

Peruvian Past

One of the things I wanted most to experience while visiting the historic center of Lima was the San Francisco Church, one of the best preserved colonial churches in the city, which also houses a monastery, museum and catacombs.

Construction of the Spanish baroque-style church, which pays tribute to Saint Jude the Apostle, was begun in 1673, but was not completed until 1774. Having survived many earthquakes in its early years with little damage, a tremor in 1970 caused extensive destruction. The entire complex, consisting of the church, the monastery, museum and catacombs was listed in 1991 as part of the Historic Centre of Lima.

As your enter the gates and gaze upon the bright yellow facade of the church, you’ll be greeted by the swarms of pigeons in the courtyard as well as many vendors selling bags of seeds, which keeps the birds present, and other wares.

Having about thirty minutes before the next tour would begin for the catacombs and monastery, I decided to visit the church first. A very fascinating structure, I was most taken with the beautifully carved entrance and the colossal wooden doorway. Once inside, you cannot but be enthralled with the red and white intricately latticed dome, its ornately gilded side altars and the Spanish influence throughout. Most notable was the head altar which is fully carved out of wood.

After my visit was complete, a few steps out of the church through the courtyard brought me to the entrance of the Museum, Monastery and Catacombs. As tours begin on the hour, I only had a few minutes to wait before our guide greeted us and prepared us for our circuit. Her first instructions…something it seems that lately I have been hearing quite frequently…no photos! Ugh!

The first part of our visit brought us through the museum and monastery. A large collection of ancient religious texts, some brought over by the first wave of Spanish priests after the conquest of the Incas is exceptionally notable. While I was tempted to sneak a few pictures of the prominent library, filled with 25,000 texts, including the first Spanish dictionary and a Holy Bible from 1571, I noticed the surveillance cameras throughout the room as well as two workers intent on preserving ancient texts. As much as I would have loved to capture the beauty of this room, with my camera, it was not to be. Sadly, this amazing room would have to be remembered from a postcard purchased in the gift shop.

The monastery contains many religious works of art and you can also visit the choir stalls where you see the large choir songbooks displayed on floor stands. Before exiting the monastery, you will pass through a series of beautiful courtyards full of plants, walkways and private little nooks where the monks most assuredly passed their time meditating.

Before long, you are entering the maze of passageways which were actually part of Lima’s original cemeteries. An estimated 75,000 bodies are buried under San Francisco alone and many of the remains are exposed and stacked in strange patterns in circular stone pits. As you walk through the semicircular archways and vaulted ceilings, you can distinguish skulls, tibiae, femurs and fibulae of the bodies that were place here to decompose.

Many famous Peruvians from the colonial era were buried within the old church including the remains of Friar Juan Gomez, a 16th Century doctor and “miracle worker” who worked at the church hospital for 40 years. According to Franciscan chronicles, Friar Gomez saved the life of a man who fell off his horse by simply reciting three prayers for the man. The man, thought to be dead, rose to his feet and walked away as if he’d never fallen from the horse.

Having been through many catacombs in France and Italy, it was interesting to note the difference in how the bones were laid to rest and displayed. Since no surveillance cameras were noted, I was able to turn off my flash and snap a few photos of the macabre exhibit.

After the tour’s completion, we were allowed to make our way through the monastery and museum toward the exit. Again, a few photos were able to be taken quickly with no one noticing.

Thoroughly having enjoyed my visit to the San Francisco Church, Museum, Monastery and Catacombs, I highly recommend a visit to anyone in the historic city center of Lima. Take the time to absorb and appreciate each unique part of this significant landmark.

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Church, Museum and Catacombs of San Francisco

Address: Jirón Lampa y Ancash, Lima, Peru
Admission: Church, free admission
Admission: Museum and Catacombs, 10 sols (about $3)
Hours: Church, daily 7:00-11:00 and 16:00-20:00
Hours: Museum and Catacombs, daily 9:00-20:15

A Utrecht Stopover

After our visit to the opulent De Haar Castle, the return to Amsterdam was taking us back again through Utrecht. Seeing an opportunity to circumnavigate the ancient city center, albeit quickly, we decided to hop off of the train and make quick work of seeing a few landmarks.

Finally exiting the train station, after wandering aimlessly through the adjacent shopping center, a quick stop was made for soup and a sandwich. Realizing that the day was drawing to a close, I wanted to show my friend, Leianne, a few of the things that I had appreciated on a prior visit.

While at the castle, we had learned of the destruction that had been caused by a hurricane in 1674. The same storm had torn through the city and destroyed the nave of St. Martin’s Cathedral, or the Dom Church as it is more commonly known. The Church and the Dom Tower still stand separated by the non-existent nave, now the Domplein, a square with trees. Once the Netherlands’ largest church, dedicated to St. Martin of Tours, it was also the cathedral of the Diocese of Utrecht during the Middle Ages. The tower, the hallmark of the city, is the tallest church tower in the Netherlands. Standing at 367 feet high, it is on the spot where the city of Utrecht originated almost 2,000 years ago.

As we walked up the street toward these two magnificent structures we passed underneath the Dom Tower. Exiting on the church side, it was easy to imagine the hurricane force winds that caused the destruction many years ago. The wind was blowing so hard that we were almost unable to put one foot in front of the other.

Although we did not have time to do so on this day, climbing the Dom Tower can be a wonderful opportunity to see Utrecht from a higher vantage point. On a prior trip, I climbed the 465 steps to the top, stopping halfway to view the historic bells and the 17th century Hemony carillon.

Once we completed our visit of St. Martin’s Cathedral, we ducked into the Pandhof (courtyard) which is located between St. Martin’s Cathedral and the University Hall at Domplein. The Pandhof is a peaceful and picturesque monastery garden, where ornamental plants and herbs bloom. In the center of the garden is a fountain with a bronze statue of the 14th century priest Hugo Wstinc. One of the most beautiful enclosed gardens in Holland, it is worthy of a few minutes to step inside…and if you are lucky, there will be someone utilizing the magnificent acoustics and playing music for your enjoyment (or for a euro or two!)

Musician utilizing the acoustics at Pandhof

As the day ended, we walked around a bit more, just checking out the beautiful architecture and relaxed atmosphere that Utrecht has to offer, before making our return to Amsterdam. Having previously visited Utrecht, I know all that the city extends to visitors. Hopefully, despite the short time here, my friend gained some insight in to what a great place it is to spend time and she will return to inspect it further!

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Utrecht

Getting there: Amsterdam Central to Utrecht, approximately 25 minutes, 5-6 departures per hour, approximtely 17€ roundtrip

Dom Tower

http://www.domtoren.nl/en
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 10:00-17:00, Sunday and Monday, 12:00-17:00
Admission: Adults, 9€, Children (ages 4-12) 5€, Students/+65, 7,50€

St. Martin’s Cathedral

http://www.domkerk.nl/
Admission: Donations accepted
Daily, May-September 10:00-17:00, October-April 11:00-16:00, Saturday 10:00/11:00-15:30, Sunday 12:30-16:00

Divine De Haar

Located in the center of the Netherlands near Utrecht, De Haar Castle, is a medieval fortress complete with towers, ramparts, canals, gates and drawbridges. Entirely restored and partially rebuilt in the 19th century, it is a sight to behold and quite unlike anything you would expect from the less than flamboyant Dutch.

Getting to De Haar Castle was so much easier than I ever thought. Worried about changing trains in Utrecht and then to a bus in Vleuten, I had put off visiting De Haar Castle for quite some time. Laying in my bed the night before, trying to decide what to do the next day and knowing that the weather was not going to be optimum, I decided that in the very least, it was something to do that was indoors and probably worth the trip.

The agents in the Amsterdam train station were extremely helpful when purchasing our tickets. While checking train schedules, I knew that there were certain trains that provided a better connection in Utrecht, however, connect time was only about eleven minutes. The agent informed us which Utrecht train to take for the better connection, but gave us a choice…wait in Amsterdam Central a little longer for that train or go to Utrecht on a train leaving sooner and have more time for the connecting train in Utrecht. We decided on the first train, in the event that the other might be running behind…better to wait in Utrecht!

Travel to Utrecht is a quick twenty-six minutes. The station is not very large and finding the platform for the Vleuten train was brief and uncomplicated. The journey from Utrecht to Vleuten is only ten minutes. Walking down from the platform, take a left, under the tracks and you will see the bus stop straight ahead on the left. The #111 bus to De Haar Castle (on certain days) runs approximately every thirty minutes and drops off right in front of the castle.

The ride to the castle is quite short, through the beautiful countryside. Before we realized, the bus was coming to a stop and we had our first glimpse of the castle’s outer walls. A short walk led us to the gatehouse, the courtyard and the ticket office. Walking toward the impressive castle through the front gardens, one can imagine how lovely it would be during the spring and summer months when everything is in bloom.

Tours begin on the top of the hour so there was some time to walk around and take pictures of the beautiful grounds and the castle’s exterior. After finally entering the castle, we found a coat check room and lockers for our belongings. We also found a sign stating that no pictures are allowed…very disappointing for this photography lover!

The hour long tour take you through different parts of the grand home, from the kitchen to the guestrooms and touches on the history of the castle. In 1890, De Haar was inherited by Baron Etienne van Zuylen who was wed to Baroness Helene de Rothschild. Plans were made to rebuild the castle which was in disrepair, with architect Pierre Cuypers in 1892, a project that took 20 years to complete. The castle has 200 rooms and 30 bathrooms, of which only about 10 are shown on the tour.

Interior photos (of course, we sneaked a few)

Surrounding the castle are magnificent gardens designed by Hendrik Copijn. Many waterworks can be found throughout as well as a formal garden modeled after those of Versailles. The village of Haarzuilens, formerly located where the park was to be built, was demolished for construction of the gardens, with the exception of the town church, and moved further up the valley, where it can be visited today. Most of the buildings were designed by Pierre Cuypers and his son Joseph. The coat of arms does not only live on in the colors of the castle, but also in nearly all of the houses in Haarzuilens.

Upon completion of our tour, we once again returned to the grounds, fighting the wind and drizzle, finding the chapel, which we had hoped to visit, closed. It was easy to imagine how returning during the warmer months would be extremely enjoyable, venturing out into the sunshine to encounter the Rose Garden, the Roman Garden, ponds, canals, bridges, vistas and impressive avenues. Reading somewhere that each season at the castle has its own charm, I can promise you that due to the ornery weather, winter’s charm was not going to be experienced during our visit…only winter’s misery!

Catching the bus at the same location, we returned to the Vleuten train station for the brief journey to Utrecht and Amsterdam.

One would expect a castle of this caliber to be found throughout other parts of Europe, not the Netherlands. Thanks to the Van Zuylen family, however, it is one that you can experience on a trip to the country most known for its windmills and cheese. If you are in search of history and architecture, then, De Haar Castle is worth the effort.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

De Haar Castle

http://www.kasteeldehaar.nl/english-version/
Opening Hours: January 4-March 13, daily, 11:00-17:00. March 14-June 30, daily, 10:00-17:00. Tours depart on the hour, last tour 16:00.
Admission: Castle entrance and all day park access, Adults, 14,00€, Children (ages 4-12), 9,00€, Children (under 4), free
Admission: Park entrance only, Adults 4,00€, Children (ages 4-12), 3€, Children (under 4), free
Getting there: Trains depart for Utrecht from Amsterdam Central station regularly. From Utrecht Central Station take the train to Vleuten (train destination: Den Haag Centraal, not the intercity, but the sprinter). At Vleuten station, go down the stairs and turn left to the bus station. Take bus #111 on Wednesday, weekends and special holidays. Bus will drop you right next to the castle. For other days, take bus #127 to Breukelen and get off at the “Kasteel” bus stop at Haarzuilens. From here, it’s a 15 minute walk to the castle.
Additional option: On a nice day, rent a bike in Utrecht and ride to the castle, about one hour and 15 minutes.