The Art Lover’s Church

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Rainy days aren’t usually fun days for tourists…especially when you are trying to go out and do some sightseeing!  So, when I woke up from my nap in Milan and discovered that it was sprinkling a bit, what was I to do?

Grab an umbrella and raincoat and hit the streets, of course!

Since the weather forecast was not calling for the deluge to end any time that day, I reached into my bag of knowledge of  local destinations and pulled out San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore.

Having researched this monastery a few times, I had also heard that it was not to be missed…and it was indoors!  Perfect!

Reaching the metro station of Cadorna and consulting my map a few times, I was soon standing in front of the church’s unassuming gray stone facade on Corso Magenta.

Admittedly, it didn’t look like much.

Stepping through the doors, however, I must confess…my breath caught in my chest.  An art lover’s dream, this church truly is magnificent.  Being a person who has traveled the world and seen many religious institutions, I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything quite as beautiful with masterpieces covering every inch of the walls, ceilings, side chapels and altar area.  It was absolutely difficult to discern which way to cast your gaze.

The church, standing on the site of a former place of worship, was constructed in the beginning of the 1500’s and is adjoined to the convent of the Benedictine nuns, the oldest female monastery in Milan.  The rectangular nave is divided by a partition into two sections.  The front section, which you see when you enter, is intended for the congregation’s worship and filled with artwork by major sixteenth century Lombard artists such as Bernardino Luini, who worked with Leonardo da Vinci, and his sons, Paolo Lomazzo, Ottavio Semino, Callisto Piazza and Simone Peterzano.  The carved wooden altar is graced by the renowned Adorazione dei Magi (Adoration of the Magi) by Antonio Campi above it, dating back to 1578, one of the most outstanding pieces of artwork in the building.

Checking with the attendant that it was okay to photograph the area, she then made sure that I saw a sign pointing to a doorway near the altar.  The Hall of Nuns.

Already in awe of what I was seeing, I was not sure I wanted to continue on to another area of the structure.  Entering the doorway into a great hall, again, I was dumbfounded.

The Hall of Nuns was unlike anything I had ever seen.  The long nave, flanked on each side by the wooden nun’s choir loft was presided over by a massive and obviously quite valuable pipe organ, designed by Gian Giacomo Antegnati in 1554, in the monk’s choir.  Beautifully sculpted, the gold detail of the facade is only outdone by the two shutters on each side painted in tempera by Franscesco Medici.

Walking through the gallery, I was overloaded by the expanse of compositions that filled every inch of the walls, niches and ceilings.  Truly breathtaking!  Looking upward at the starry sky, with God, the Evangelists and angels, I made my way throughout the space, through the hall and behind the nun’s choir, finding my way back to the partition separating the Hall of the Nuns from the main congregation.  Here, images by Bernandino Luini, of St. Catherine, St. Agatha, the Marriage at Cana and the Carrying of the Cross of Christ are presented.

Reluctantly leaving the space, I found my way into the location that formerly housed the Benedictine convent.  Now the domicile of the Milan Archaeological Museum, many Roman remains, statues and parts of the Roman Circus can be found here.  Deciding to save this for another day, I made my way through the courtyard, quickly checking out the relics that lined the area and back into the rainy day.

Glancing back at the church, I couldn’t help but stop and feel glad that I had braved the elements and taken such an incredible and artistic walk through history.

Everyone wants to see the Duomo, but everyone should seek out Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore.  Truly one of Milan’s gems!

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Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore

Temple of Victory

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Making my way through throngs of shoppers at the weekend market taking place at the Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio, I gathered my bearings and was attempting to find my way to the nearest Metro station.  Passing between the apsidal area of the Basilica and the seat of the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, I stood mesmerized at a gate separating me from a tall, marble monument.

The Temple of Victory.

Only…I didn’t know what it was at the time.

Attempting to photograph the temple, I assumed it was part of Sant’ Ambrogio, but inaccessible to public visitation.  Turning onto the adjacent street, I glanced back through the temple’s gates and noticed two people walking near the base. Appearing that is was indeed open to the public, I frantically began searching the perimeter for the entrance.  I  wanted to check this place out!

Street view to Catholic University. Temple on right.

Walking around the enclosure, I passed through an open gate, but witnessed a gentleman attendant folding up his table and chair.  Noticing that it was almost five o’clock and probably closing time, I decided to enter and play the part of  “the stupid tourist” if confronted!

Interior gate view from Temple grounds
Part of Entrance gate

First, walking around the base of the structure, I photographed the amazing statue of Saint Ambrogio by Adolfo Wildt and admired the intricately carved faces in the niches in the facade by artists such as Lombardi, Supino and Maiocchi.  Peering into the structure through a closed glass doorway, I decided that I was definitely going in!

 The door on the opposite side was not yet closed and I no longer noticed the attendant.  Walking into the shrine, I quickly made my way both up and down the stairways.

After inspecting the upper floor, I made my way down to the bottom and the ossuary.  Noting that it was a monument of extreme importance and reverence, I stood in silence reading some of the thousands of names that lined the walls.

I slowly wandered the marble floors and inspected the memorials on each of the levels.

After my retreat to the ground level, I encountered the attendant standing beside the entrance.  Asking him if he minded giving me some background information on the temple, he happily obliged in excellent English!

The Temple of Victory (also known as Shrine of the Fallen Milanes or Monument to the Fallen), a marble, monumental complex dedicated to the fallen Milanese of the Great War, was inaugurated on November 4, 1928 on the 10th anniversary of Vittorio Veneto, the battle won by the Italians in World War II.

The complex is one of extreme symbolism and stands on the site of the ancient cemetery of the martyrs.  The black stone fence surrounding the monument replicates the same measurements of the atrium of Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio.  The eight sides of the building are oriented towards the eight gates of Milan which reminds one of the streets that the soldiers traversed from Milan to join the Italian troops.  The four large arches and the symbols carved represent the four years of war and names of the great battles the Armed Forces fought in.  Lastly, the four lateral sides symbolize the four natural elements, earth, water, fire and air.

Built between 1927 and 1930 and based on a design by Giovanni Muzio who collaborated with architects Gio Ponti and Tommaso Buzzi, the structure sustained major damage during World War II, but was later reconstructed.  The nucleus of the temple contains an ossuary on the bottom floor that is surrounded by bronze plaques with the names of ten thousand Milanese who died during the war.  Inside there are many beautiful monuments such as Mausoleo di Rosa dei Venti Teodorico or di Atene.

If you are in the area at night, you may be able to notice the signal light at the top of the monument.  An electric light beam with four rotating rays can be seen more than ten miles away.

Taking a trip to the Sant’ Ambrogio area of Milan is a definite addition to one’s itinerary.  However, if you are a history or war buff, a stop next door to the Temple of Victory helps in one’s understanding Milan’s importance in World War II and the lives lost during this important time in history.  Definitely a must see, especially on a beautiful day!

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Temple of Victory

  • Address:  Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 1, Milano
  • Hours:  unknown
  • Getting There:  Take the Metro to metro stop, S. Ambrogio

 

The Canals of Milan

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Everyone knows about the canals of Venice and Amsterdam.  But does anyone know that Milan has canals too?

Most visitors to Milan tend to stay in the Duomo area.  Though a beautiful and energetic area, a little homework or just asking around, can point you in the right direction in finding Navigli district, an area lesser known to visitors.

In the south of the city, the navigli were a system of  five navigable and interconnected canals constructed in 1179 to connect Milan with the nearby lakes.  Naviglio Grande, Naviglio Pavese, Naviglio Martesana, Naviglio di Paderno and Naviglio Bereguardo were the waterways used to transport goods to the city from nearby areas, including the marble used in the construction of Milan’s famed landmark, the Duomo.

Today, only three of the canals exist…Naviglio di Paderno and Naviglio Bereguardo having been overlaid.  Though the canals are now mainly used for irrigation, two of the canals, Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese are used by tourist operators and you can see their boats motoring up and down the canals during the warmer months of the year.

Riding the metro late in the afternoon, I eyed the many young people, dressed up for the Saturday night.  Disembarking at the Porto Genova stop, we all made our way down to the main canal.  Being a beautiful sunny day, there were masses of people spilling out from the scores of bars, restaurants and cafes that line the canal.  Happy hour  was underway and specials were advertised throughout the area, most offering drinks and accompanying appetizer buffets.

Many of the younger set made their way to the grassy areas that line the canal near the Ticinese dock, while families biked the paths that line Navigli Martesana.

Tourists crowded on the the many bridges that span the canals, all clamoring to get that perfect selfie and other artwork was abound with countless galleries and signs pointing to courtyards showcasing local artists work.   Design showrooms and temporary outdoor photography and art exhibits can be found throughout the area.

If shopping is your thing, head to the Navigli Grande for the flea market held on the last Sunday of every month, except July.  From Viale Gorizia to the bridge on the Via Valenza, covering almost two kilometres on the banks of the Naviglio Grande, you will find everything from jewelry, to furniture to clothing.

Whatever you enjoy, take a moment to head down to this vibrant area of Milan…there is something for everyone!

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Navigli Grande

  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Metro, Porto Genova stop or Tram 2

Ancient Ambrogio

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Strolling through the quiet and picturesque neighborhoods of Milan is a peaceful experience.

There are countless churches throughout the city and many that I have earmarked to visit.  As I wandered through the streets, I realized that I was near the Basilica of Sant’ Ambrogio.  Admiring the architecture and stopping every now and then for a picture or two, I took my time as I found my way to the church.

Suddenly,  I turned a corner and realized that Sant’ Ambrogio was right before me.

 There went the peace and quiet.

On this day, a flower market and a flea market was taking place in the church’s courtyard as well as on the grounds.  Masses of people were milling about, buying plants, flowers and clothing and some just enjoying the beautiful, sunny day.

Making my way through the throngs of patrons, I tried to take in the basilica’s enormous atrium and hut shaped facade, flanked by two red brick bell towers, the 9th century Tower of the Monks (Torre dei Monaci, used by the monks to call of the faithful to the monk’s mass) and the canon’s 12th century bell tower, one taller than the other.   Two loggias decorate the facade with the upper reserved for the bishops to bless the citizens. Archaeological remains line the walls and deserve a look…when not surrounded by annuals and perennials!

As I entered the basilica, I can say that it is both breathtaking in its beauty but also in its age.  Construction of this masterpiece was begun at the end of the 4th century and is known as the oldest church in Milan.  Built by St. Ambrose in 379-386, it was established in an area where numerous martyrs of the Roman persecutions had been buried and was originally named Basilica Martyrum.

The first thing you notice when entering the church is that there is no transept.  The Romanesque-style church has a semi-circular apse and smaller, semi-circular chapels at the end of the aisles.

Walking along the outer edges of the church, I loved inspecting the many side chapels, including the Chapel of Saint Savina and the Chapel of Saint George which house relics of the saints.  The Basilica’s crypt, located under the high altar, contains the remains of three saints, Saint Ambrose, Saint Gervasus and Protasus, all of which may be accessed and viewed.  The church also houses the tomb of Emperor Louis II, who died in Lombardy in 875.

The Basilica’s interior also houses the Stilicho’s Sepulchre, a magnificent fourth century sarcophagus with decorated high reliefs and the Oratory of San Vittorio, a chapel built before the first basilica and incorporated during construction.

For an small fee (2€), you may enter the Oratory and view the archaeological remains and beautiful golden domed ceiling.

Though the basilica sustained damage during Allied bombing in 1943, the integrity of the church remains and is one that should be seen while in Milan.  Take your time when visiting this magnificent and ancient structure.  Hopefully, when you visit, it just might be a little quieter!

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Basilica di Sant’ Ambrogio

  • http://www.basilicasantambrogio.it/
  • Address:  Piazza Sant’Ambrogio, 15, 20123 Milano, Italy
  • Hours:  0700-12:00 and 1430-1900
  • Admission:  free
  • Admission:  Oratory, €2.00
  • Getting There:  Metro line 2 (green line), stop Sant’ Ambrogio.  The church is situated just right in front of the exit of the metro.  From the Duomo, about a 15 minute walk.  Bus lines, 50, 58, 94.

 

Art and Architecture Appreciation Day

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Sometimes things go as planned.

Sometimes they don’t.

That’s when you make lemonade out of lemons!

My plan for the day in Milan was to visit the Duomo.  I hadn’t been there in years and was excited to see it and photograph it again.

After taking the metro and arriving in the Piazza del Duomo, I reached into my bag to pull out my camera.  Trying to take a picture of the Duomo, I realized that the shutter wasn’t reacting.  Thinking that I may have broken it somehow, I turned it over and realized that the battery door had come loose and the battery was probably still in my bag back in my hotel room.

Argggghhh!

Okay, I really wanted to take some amazing photographs of the Duomo’s interior, but without my camera, it would have to wait.  Looking up at the bright blue sky, I realized that maybe, it was just a better day to go exploring and save the Duomo for a rainy one.  So…that’s what I did.  Checking some saved locations on my Google maps and the condition of my iPhone battery (since that was going to act as my camera), I set off on my Art and Architecture Appreciation Tour.

Here’s what I found.

The Duomo…of course!  So beautiful and always wonderful to gaze upon.

Beautiful buildings and architectures exist everywhere in Milan.  Turn down random streets.  Look up. Look all around.  You never know what you might find!

The Milan Stock Exchange.  The interesting sculpture in front of the Milan Stock Exchange building placed there since 2015, and designed by Maurizio Cattelan, has caused much controversy but brings in the curiosity seekers.  About four meters high, on a base of eleven meters, the marble sculpture is officially titled L.O.V.E., but reading between the lines, gazers can take away the message that they see for themselves.  All of the fingers have been cut off except the middle one, butchered by the scammers-turned-entrepreneurs who have dominated the Italian Stock market for generations.  This is a big F***You! from the people.

Palazzo Borromeo and Santa Maria Padone.  Palazzo Borromeo was built in the late 14th century when the Florentine Borromeo family moved to Milan.  Remodeled over the centuries and badly damaged during the air raids of 1943, it’s appearance today is not of its original construction.  The square was created in 1440 following the demolition of a number of houses purchased by the Borromeo family to create a space linking the family palace with the 9th century parish church of Santa Maria Padone.  The Romanesque church was transformed into a small basilica and a small family chapel was added in the 15th century.

The Roman Circus.  Did you know that there are some Roman ruins remaining in Milan?  What shocked me most was that there once was a Roman circus right in the middle of the city, occupying an area between Via del Torchio, Via Cappuccio, Corso Magenta, Via Brisa and Via Morigi.  The original structure was 450 meters long by 80 meters wide and probably built by Emperor Maximian in the 4th century A.D.  A few blocks of the foundations of the stands remain (some can be found in the cellars of some houses in Via Cappuccio and Via Morigi) and some parts have been incorporated into newer structures.

Imperial Palace.  Close to the circus, you can find the remains of the Roman Imperial Palace complex.  Many different buildings were used privately and publicly by the Emperor as well as his court officials and the imperial bureaucracy.  As in other Italian cities, the Emperor had direct access from his palace to the circus.

Colonne di San Lorenzo.  The colonnade, located in the front of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, consists of 16 tall Corinthian columns in a row.  The columns were relocated to this area in the 4th century after presumably being removed from a 2nd century pagan temple or bath house.  South of the colonnade is a remaining city gate, the medieval Porta Ticinese (see new Porta Ticinese below).  The area serves as a meeting place as well as a hangout for young people, especially during the evenings.

The Wall of Dolls.  A permanent exhibition, by artist Joe Ring, located on Via de Amicis, near Colonne di San Lorenzo.  At first sight, it seems a bit disconcerting, however, it exerts a strong message…each doll represents women lost or who have succumbed to domestic violence and hate crimes.

Porta di Ticinese.  The modern city gate of Porta Ticinese is located long the Inner Ring Road at Piazza Venti Quattro Maggio, at the southern end of Corso di Porta Ticinese.  Built between 1801 and 1814, along the path of the old 16th century Spanish Walls, it replaced the gate from the Spanish Habsburg era.

So…after all these years of telling everyone that Milan is not my favorite city, “cause there’s nothing to do”…I think I might have to eat my words.

It’s definitely no Rome…there’s not something on every block, but I do have to say that I found some extremely interesting things during my Art and Appreciation Walk.  Milan is a bit like an onion!  Taking the time to peel back the layers, you can definitely find some fascinating things throughout the city.

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 Borsa Italiana (Milan Stock Exchange)

Piazza Borromeo and Santa Maria Padone

Roman Circus

Imperial Palace

  • Address:  Via Brisa, Milano Italy
  • Hours:  Open 24 hours, Street View
  • Admission:  free

Colonne di San Lorenzo

Wall of Dolls

  • Address:  Via de Amicis, 2 20122 Milano, Italy
  • Hours:  Open 24 hours

Porta di Ticinese

 

A Monumental Resting Place

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Some people just don’t like the idea of cemeteries, feeling uneasy knowing that they are surrounded by so many long, lost departed souls.  Me?  I love them and have visited a great many in cities around the world.  A place of remembrance, it gives solace to those who visit their loved ones, but it can also tell you so much about the culture and history of a city or country.

My favorite cemetery, second only to La Recoleta in Buenos Aires, is located in Milan.  A couple of years ago, my friend Judy and I ventured out on the new subway line in search of what this place had to offer.  We were blown away!  The extravagance and opulence were more than we ever expected!

Opened in 1866, the largest cemetery in Milan can be described as more of a museum or park.  Filled with contemporary and classical Italian sculptures and tombs, it also features Greek temples, elaborate obelisks and many original works from a vast array of famous artists.  Many notable Italian citizens are interred throughout the property, including conductor and cellist, Arturo Toscanini, actor, Walter Chiari and Nobel prize winner, Salvatore Quasimodo.

Just recently, I found myself in Milan again on a beautiful, warm and sunny day.  Heading out by myself, I decided that Monumentale would be the perfect location to take in the lovely afternoon and capture its beauty with my camera.

Entering through the main Famedio, a Neo Medieval style memorial chapel made of marble and stone, I first stopped to gaze upon the beautiful blue ceiling and the tomb of novelist, Alessandro Manzoni before making my way through each of the hallways.  I particularly loved walking along the outer edges of the open-aired corridors so that I could admire the building’s architecture, the courtyard and the ornate tombs that line the area.

Before making my way into the cemetery’s immaculately groomed grounds, I then walked the full length of the building’s lower level, exiting at the center, where I could examine the map and the locations of the cemetery’s famous occupants.  In this area is also a structure comprised of metal tubes and black and white stones centered with a small clay bowl placed inside the main formation.  Surrounded by memorial plaques, I was informed by a fellow bystander that it is a monument to the 800 Italians who perished in Nazi concentration camps and the bowl was filled with soil from the Mauthausen concentration camp.

Wandering the grounds, through the avenues of trees, should be reserved for an unhurried pace as to absorb entire beauty of the surroundings and that’s just what I did.  It was impossible not to want to stop and inspect each monument, so detailed and individualized were they.  Many of the tombs and funerary monuments are of such an extravagant size, it is almost as through you are walking through a neighborhood of homes.

At the rear of the property is the Jewish section which contains its own entrance, and a central building which was once the original entrance for Monumentale.  There are many monuments of artistic value in this section by famous architects and sculptors.  When walking through this area, be sure not to miss the artistic windows in the central building which represent the twelve tribes of Israel by artist Diego Pennacchio Ardemagni.

Three other sites that absolutely cannot be missed are Mausoleum of Antonio Bernocchi (designed by Giannino Castiglioni), where you can lean inside and gaze at the upward spiral design of the monument, the full-size casting of the Last Supper for the Campari family tomb and the monument to the Besenzanica family, “L’Aratura” designed by Enrico Butti.

Even with the lesser known and less famous gravesites, beautifully detailed sculpture can be found.  My favorites were of people of all walks of life…sailors, soldiers, children…but I especially enjoyed the flying girls and the grave with the scooter as they were so different.

My second time in Monumentale, I enjoyed as much as my first, staying for more than three hours.  Many people always tell first-timers to visit the Duomo and the Last Supper, but honestly, this ranks right up there as an extremely important Milanese tourist destination.

So…when in Milan, skip the fashion shows…spend a day surrounded by art in Milan’s open-aired museum…I mean cemetery!

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Monumentale Cemetery

  • https://www.comune.milano.it/wps/portal/ist/en
  • Piazzale Cimitero Monumentale, 20154 Milano, Italy
  • Hours:  0800-1800, except Mondays, entrance permitted up to 30 minutes before closing.
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Metro, line M5, station Monumentale.  Tram lines 2, 4, 12 and 14.  Bus 37.