I think anyone who has ever been there can agree with that statement and as many times as I have been there over the years, it always seems like there is something new (and often crazy) that astounds me!
Having had enough of the crowds on the Strip, I had decided to rent a car for a little expedition away from the city. I knew I was heading towards Rachel, Nevada to experience the E.T. Highway, but since I had a car at my disposal, I decided that I had better do a quick search on my phone to see if there was anything else going on in the area.
Spotting an article about an art installation ten miles south of Las Vegas, I, at first, thought I was a bit late. But the pictures…oh they were intriguing!
Continuing my research, I learned that The Seven Magic Mountains (as it was called) was a large-scale exhibition, created by Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone, and is located near Jean Dry Lake and Interstate 15. It was installed in the desert on May 11, 2016 and was originally slated to remain for two years. Given an extension until the end of 2021, thankfully, it was still there!
Even though it was completely in the opposite direction of where I was initially headed, I decided that it would be worth the detour.
The drive was easy and as I approached from Las Vegas Boulevard South, I could see the stark contrast of the colorful, stacked boulders against the desert landscape.
If you’ve ever hiked a trail where rocks are present, you may have seen human-made, stacks of rocks called cairns. These stacks are often used as memorials or landmarks. This is immediately what I though of when I gazed upon the boulders in the desert from the parking area. In fact, as I walked along the path toward the installation, many people had made small cairns along the way.
It was the commanding presence of the art installation itself and the striking colors, however, that made me gasp, when I stood in their shadows.
Seven towers of colorful, stacked boulders stand more than thirty feet high, soaring above you in the clear, desert sky. It was unlike anything I had ever seen! Colossal stones, painted in vivid hues and stacked in the middle of the Nevada desert…but why? I had no idea but it was one of the most captivating displays I had ever lain my eyes upon.
As I walked among these massive pillars, I was amazed, not only for the amount of visitors to the site (which really is out in the middle of nowhere), but also how the Stonehenge-like monoliths were constructed.
Since I was heading to the E.T. Highway, I thought about the stories and myths that have long accompanied Area 51.
It Ugo Rondinone a cover? Could it be aliens?
In the spirit of the day’s trip, I’ll go with that!
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Getting There: Take I-15 South from the Las Vegas Strip. Follow I-15 S to Sloan Rd in Enterprise. Take exit 25 from I-15 S . Merge onto I-15 S . Take exit 25 toward Sloan Rd. Drive to Las Vegas Blvd S in Sloan. Turn left onto Sloan Rd. Turn right onto Las Vegas Blvd S. The installation can be seen from the interstate.
The first Ferris wheel was constructed in 1893, by George W. Ferris, for the World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago.
Since then, thousands of similar wheels have been erected throughout the years, many attempting to outshine the others.
The Wonder Wheel at Coney Island was introduced in 1920 and stills stands strong today taking passengers for rides in its swinging cars along Brooklyn’s iconic boardwalk. The Niagra SkyWheel at Niagra Falls gives riders a bird’s eye view of the thunderous cascades, probably the most unique views of any ferris wheel in the world!
While the Wonder Wheel may hold the record for the longest life and the Skywheel, arguably the best views, the London Eye, opened in 2000, with its enclosed cabins and slow rotation, is the tallest cantilevered observation wheel in Europe and one of the most visited, hosting a staggering 3.75 passengers per year!
Others throughout the world, have followed suite…the Sky Dream in Fukuoka, Japan (2002), the Zhengzhou Ferris Wheel in Henan, China (2003), the Changsha Ferris Wheel, Changsha, China (2004), the Tianjin Eye, Tianjin, China (2008), the Melbourne Star, Melbourne, Austrailia (2008) and the Suzhou Ferris Wheel in Suzhou, China (2009)…all standing 394 feet tall.
The Icon Orlando (originally known as the Orlando Eye), opened in 2015, is the next tallest at 400 feet. Following the Orlando Eye, in height, is the Redhorse Osaka Wheel standing at 404 feet tall which opened a year after Orlando’s landmark. The next year, 2017, produced the Lihpao Sky Dream at 413 feet tall.
Prior to these shorter statured mechanisms, there was the Star of Nanchang which measured 525 feet and was built in 2006. The Singapore flyer came shortly after in 2008 and stands tall at 541 feet. Dubai already boasts the highest building, the Burj Khalifa, however, construction is underway to brandish the tallest ferris wheel the world at 689 feet.
The United States, not to be outdone, opened the High Roller at the LINQ Hotel and Casino on the Las Vegas Strip, in 2014, soaring to 550 feet…the tallest in the world! Each cabin holds forty passengers and as with Vegas style, drinks may be consumed on board. In fact, cabins may be rented with bartenders and bars!
Recently while in Vegas, I could see the High Roller from my hotel window. It was too hot to hang at the pool so I headed over the the LINQ Promenade (a great place for shopping, dining and entertainment) and purchased a ticket. I would imagine that there are a great deal more visitors in the evening hours, when Vegas’ lights can be seen even from space, but I marched to the front of the line and into an open cabin, one of twenty eight available.
Yes! I had it all to myself!
Sometimes, elation is short-lived.
A family of eight walked up and joined me. Oh well, the cabins do hold forty people, so at least we all had space to move around freely.
The rotation took thirty minutes to complete and I was fascinated not only with the views of the Vegas strip, nearby McCarran airport and the colorful desert mountains that ring the city, but the mechanisms that operate this monstrosity.
The cabin was comfortable with seating all around and air conditioned, very important in the desert heat.
Though my thirty minute trip around the wheel was gratifying and filled my mid-day void, I think that I would like to visit again, but with friends and take advantage of the nighttime views…
And of course…the bartender!
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Address: 3545 S Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas, NV 89109
Hours: 1130-0200, daily
Admission: Daytime prices, Adults, $25, Youth $10, Happy Hours with bartender, $35 (must be 21 to ride in cabin). Nighttime prices, Adults, $37, Youth, $20, Happy Hours with bartender, $55 (must be 21 to ride in cabin). Discounts can be found on the internet.
There was much that I had discovered and enjoyed while visiting the Outer Banks and then I found a bit more!
While driving near the lighthouse, I noticed a sign for the Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education. I had some time to spare, so I decided to check it out.
The Outer Banks Center for Wildlife Education, located at Currituck Heritage Park, is dedicated to exploring coastal North Carolina’s wildlife, natural history and heritage. From the time you walk through the doors, you experience beautiful taxidermied specimens (including a large bear, perfect for a photo op) and dioramas showcasing the area’s history, species and residents that follow the “Life by Water’s Rhythm” theme. Emphasis is placed on the lifestyle and livelihood that is garnered from hunting, trapping, fishing and living along the coastal region.
Most interesting was a movie about the Sound, its resources and duck hunting history. A great deal was revealed about the Whalehead Club and how it’s existence as a lavish hunting retreat in the 1920’s shaped the area as a tourist destination.
My favorite part of the entire exhibit, however, was the display of handcrafted duck decoys. These beautifully crafted pieces made by James Best were captivating in their detail and craftsmanship.
After your indoor visit, make sure to take the outdoor nature trail where birds and nutria can be spotted in their natural habitat. Other activities include kayak tours, fishing, crabbing and archery and visits to the historic Whalehead Club.
If you need a little more than just a beach visit while in Corolla, make sure to check out this educational gem.
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Hours: April until October, 0900-1700, Monday through Saturday. Closed Sundays. November until March, 0900-1700, Monday through Friday. Closed Saturday and Sunday
There are approximately 60,000 free-roaming horses in the United States and Canada.
If you have the opportunity to visit one of the locations where they reside…you should take full advantage.
A couple of years ago, while visiting friends in North Carolina’s Outer Banks, I went in search of the many different horse statues that graced the barrier island.
These statues were placed throughout the different communities to commemorate the wild Spanish mustangs that roam the northern beaches of Corolla and Carova and are believed to be the descendants of shipwrecked horses from centuries prior.
This year, I went in search of the real horses.
Though you can access the northern beaches by four-wheel drive vehicles and search for these beautiful, four-legged creatures by yourself, there is always the risk of getting bogged down in the loose, deep sand. I wasn’t that brave.
For those who are not as adventurous (or do not own a four-wheel drive vehicle), there are safari-type tours that will drive you there (and back) in search of the horses and this is what I decided to do.
Leaving early in the morning, we headed out in the open-air, twelve-seat vehicle towards the end of the Ocean Trail to the North Beach Access Road where the pavement ends and the sand begins at the Currituck National Wildlife Refuge.
Not long after beginning our journey on the sandy expanse, we slowed our trek as we spotted a group of seven mustangs standing along the waterfront. Not to be intimidated by our presence, they stood in two groups, huddled against the morning breeze.
Advised that we would keep our distance, we strove to get the best photos from our viewpoint a short distance away while these creatures alternately stood together and sometimes took a rest on the sand.
After a short while, we said goodbye and moved onward in search of more, scanning the tall sand dunes that protected the beach homes that line the coast and driving inland on the many unpaved roads that harbor additional homes on the inlet.
There were many more horses to be spotted that day; two holding court atop a towering dune, a group of four grazing in a grassy field, the lone male trotting along down a sandy road, a group of three blocking our passage on Sandfiddler Road.
All in all, we spotted twenty-one mustangs during our excursion while also enjoying the amazing, beachfront homes, alluring landscapes and even a bit of history.
The Wash Woods Station provides an interesting change in the architecture along the beach and was built as a lifesaving station in 1917 to replace an outdated station (Deals Island Station #6) a few miles north. It was named for a small village located just north of the Virginia border and housed many guardsmen who kept lookout, especially during times of war when enemy ships cruised along the coast.
After the war, the need for personnel decreased until only a single caretaker remained. The station was decommissioned in late 1954 or early 1955. It served as a private vacation home for a time and then was restored in 1989. Today you can enjoy its construction from afar and occasionally even a horse on the property.
Eventually, we made our way back the way we had come, taking time to stop to enjoy the views from Penny Hill, the second largest dune in North Carolina.
Finally, our adventure was coming to a close and it was time for everyone to head back to their beach chairs and sun!
As I sat in my chair later that day, I turned my head and looked northward. I thought about the magnificent ponies that hold court not that far from where I was seated. Though they were not as colorful as the ones that I had sought out two years before, they were the true color of the landscape.
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There are many historic sites in the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Those located in Corolla give visitors a chance to incorporate a bit of antiquity with the sun-filled vacation.
As I was driving near the Currituck Lighthouse a couple of years ago, I spied the Corolla Chapel. A quaint little church, tucked behind the lighthouse, on the north end of the village, it sparked my interest. On that day, however, I had a carload full of teenaged boys who had already agreed to an interruption of their beach time for a visit to the lighthouse…I knew I would be pushing my luck to require them to prolong their absence from the sun and sand.
This time, there was only me.
I had just come from one of the horse-spotting tours and remembered this historic church. With time on my hands, I decided to investigate.
The Corolla Chapel is an interdenominational Christian fellowship that dates back to 1885. The original sanctuary was situated across the road from its current location and moved and expanded in 2002 to accommodate the expanding number of attendees.
The chapel still retains its original interior walls and contains many of its original items including its pews, pump organ, pulpit and pulpit chair.
As I walked around the small space, I marveled at the stained glass windows and the cross-shaped plan of the building. Though it was a weekday, I envisioned that the best way to really understand this small church was to attend one of the services that are held throughout the year and on special occasions.
Maybe I will have to come back again.
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Wedding and travel magazine spreads showing beautiful couples wearing expensive jewelry, designer swimsuits and perfectly coiffed hair lounging around, looking at each other lovingly while hanging in their hotel room’s private pool.
Yeah, I was always sure that was for the rich and famous.
During spring break, my son and I were playing travel roulette. No set plans…we had a list of tropical destinations that we thought we might like to try to sit standby for (a perk of my airline job) and we were going to see where we ended up.
Punta Cana eventually won out and as I made my way down the jetway to my last-minute seat, I frantically scrolled on my phone through the list of resorts that had availability.
There were three that I was eyeing…
There was one we visited a few years ago; the cheapest, but one we had enjoyed for its lively staff, wide-spread beach and their rooms’ proximity to the beach.
There was another that I knew nothing about but my son had a friend staying there. It had excellent reviews and a decent price.
The third was the most expensive of the three (though most akin to number two). It was located two properties over from the first option and one property over from where we had stayed last August, so we were familiar with the area. Both my son and I had friends staying there, so while my son could spend time hanging with his friends, I would have others to have adult conversations and drinks with!
Checking the prices for the third option, I discovered that I could choose the cheapest of their rooms, however, since it was last minute, I could get a room with a swim-up pool for just a little more.
Being that it was my son’s senior year, I had just received a good bonus check and I just felt like pampering myself, I decided to go with option number three! I just hoped that it was worth it!
We arrived to dark skies, rain and no waiting transportation due to a mix-up with our booking. Finally, arranging a one-way transfer, we were exhausted as we made our way into the open air lobby of the Royalton Punta Cana Resort & Casino.
A short time later, we were being escorted to our room near the beach area of the resort. As we passed the rooms with swim-up pools facing the main pool area, I got my first look at what we had paid for. These people could watch the action of the main resort area, yet hang out in their own private space.
As I entered our room, I pulled open the curtains and glanced out at our own pool area, which faced the side of our resort and the resort next door. Well, we didn’t have a great view. No watching the action of the resort, but it was still exciting to have this amenity. With the miserable weather, however, I decided that I needed a nap more than a swim. Taking advantage of this perk would have to wait until the next day.
The next morning, I eagerly opened the curtain, ready for sunshine! What was this? Shadows? With the sun making its way across the sky, our pool was enshrouded in darkness. How on earth was I going to work on my tan?
As we walked to the main lobby for breakfast, I enviously spied on the guests lounging on their verandas, dipping themselves in their private pools. They had sun! I thought, “No wonder I got my room for such a steal…it’s on the shady side of the resort. ”
After stuffing ourselves with pastries and omelets, we decided to head to the beach, spending the remainder of the morning lounging under one of the resort’s thatched umbrellas and enjoying the azure waters that lapped it’s shores.
One of the perks of this resort is that although there were many restaurants that served lunch near the beach, we could utilize room service…for free! Using the ordering feature on our television, we could sit on our veranda and enjoy lunch in the privacy of our room.
This needing doing!
Heading back to our room and noticing that the shadows had changed with the movement of the sun, we ordered our meal and then opened the curtain. Can you believe it? Noon was the witching hour! The sun had crept slowly across the sky during the morning and now our private pool and veranda was filled with bright light!
After enjoying our lunch, we jumped into the pool, relishing in the coolness of the water. Though our pool was private, it was connecting to the others along the length of the building. Though we remained here for the remainder of the day, we were always alone. Not one of the rooms here had guests who swam outside or relaxed on their verandas!
Each day, we repeated the same pattern; hang at the beach during the mornings and enjoy the resort’s many amenities…mini-golf, lazy river, flowrider, restaurants, snack bars. Every afternoon, however, we retreated to our room to take advantage of our pool. What luxury!
And, no…we never saw anyone on the backside of the resort.
Sometimes my last minute plans don’t go so well. This one went swimmingly!
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I have driven this stretch of roadway many times, heading to the mountains to ski, to my son’s baseball games, to college visits, to pick apples in the fall and to visit friends.
When driving, scenic pull-overs always grab my attention. I love to stop and see why it would warrant someone’s attention.
One such stop, on Interstate 64 eastbound, near Afton Mountain (between mile markers 103 and 104), offers more than just beautiful views of the adjacent Blue Ridge Mountains and Albermarle and Nelson counties.
Constructed in 2004, with $168,000 in donations from VDOT workers and family members, the VDOT (Virginia Department of Transportation) Workers’ Memorial and Scenic Overlook is a place for family members, friends and colleagues to reflect on the loss of their loved ones who have lost their lives while performing their jobs as state highway transportation workers.
The Virginia Department of Transportation was established in 1906 and since its inception, many workers lives have been lost while carrying forth the responsibilities of their jobs, many in . work zone incidents. The names of 134 employees who have died between 1928 and 2012 are engraved on the memorial in random columns.
The thirteen foot high memorial’s design shows three profiles of workers wearing hard hats cut into black, white and gray granite. These layers of granite depict the diversity of VDOT’s employees and the open profile at one end represents a “missing” worker. While looking through this “missing” worker, visitors can see the scenic view, while enjoying the surrounding wildflowers and daylilies.
If you are heading through beautiful Virginia, take a few minutes to pull over, enjoy the view and pay your respects to those who made the highway you are traveling on possible. And if you see workers along the way…
Slow down!
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While standing on the slopes of Pacaya Volcano, we couldn’t help but feel elated!
I can’t explain the pure joy we were feeling for having chosen to visit Guatemala and the beautiful city of Antigua…for all the things we had seen while we were there…for the friendly Guatemalans that we had encountered…for all of the beauty we had laid our eyes upon!
We were not ready for it to be over and thankfully, we were able to work out another night’s stay with our hotel (not an easy feat with the busy Holy Week)!
In order to make the most of our extra time, we were up early to hit the streets and see everything we had not yet had the time to. Believe me, there was quite a bit, plus more than we would have ever imagined.
First stop was the Cementerio General San Lázaro, just down the street from our hotel. We had not intended to stop here, but it was on the way to the our first destination. Always having been intrigued by old cemeteries, I figured it was worth a quick look.
Walking through the white arched entrance, decorated for Holy Week, we made our way through the municipal cemetery that was created in 1834 by the state major, Mariano Galvez on land that once hosted a leper’s hospital. The maze of white-washed tombs, some displaying the purple decorations for Holy week, was very peaceful and we observed the immaculate grounds. Though there were many mausoleums and smaller tombs, there were just as many that were quite grand. The small colonial church, San Lazaro, at the end of the large initial walkway, contained some interesting statues, both inside and out, and a large gold altar.
Leaving the cemetery, we made our way down the street to our original destination, Convento la Recolección, which I had spotted on my map the night before. We didn’t have any idea of what to expect here, but after paying our admission at the gate, we were blown away by what we found.
In the United States, there are so many building codes that dictate the structural integrity of a building. If a building does not meet these codes, people are most definitely not allowed to enter the premises or in some cases, even approach. On our first day, we were shocked to see how we could wander freely through the ruins of the monasteries that had no barrier walls or guard rails.
Convento la Recolección, took this to a whole different level.
We could see that this structure was missing its roof and that the front walls were crumbling, as approached on the lengthy sidewalk. There were two huge chunks of stone on either side of the sidewalk and we discovered that these were pieces of the same front walls that had collapsed during the great earthquake of 1773.
Approaching the front steps, we looked through the stone archway (surprisingly still intact), to the interior. The floor was littered with boulder-sized remains of the church’s ceiling and columns. There were no barriers or restrictions on where you could walk and we slowly and carefully made our way around the decaying floor, littered with its broken extremities, while staring upwards at the remaining walls, some still displaying its original detailing. Truly one of the most thought provoking places I have ever visited!
This architectural complex was a former church and monastery of the Order of the Recollects, initiated when in 1685, two missionaries of the friars of the Recollects arrived and sought permission for construction of the monastery. Though it was originally determined by the City Council that not enough friars were present to support the venture and that enough monasteries had been established, a royal decree was finally issued for its construction in 1700. Construction commenced in 1701 and continued until 1717 when the church was inaugurated. A short time later that year, earthquakes damaged the church and cloisters. Repairs were carried out, however, the devastating Santa Marta Earthquake of 1773, left the complex in ruins.
Today, the ruins are protected as both a national monument and as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and as we made our way out of the church, we walked into the adjacent monastery grounds. Here, the walls are still standing, but as with the church, the complex is open to the Antiguan heavens. The interior rooms and the former cloister is free of rubble, giving it a different feel than the church. Many of the walls and interior spaces were aged and decrepit, however, there were many traces of the architectural details that once graced its walls.
Heading a few blocks up the road, we found ourselves at our next stop, Convento de San Jeronimo. This complex was once planned as the College of St. Jerome by the Order of Mercy in 1757, however, in 1765, after initial construction was almost demolished, it was decided that the building would be used as the building of the Real Income Alcabalas and Royal Customs, one of the city’s top financial institutions of the time. As with most other buildings within the city, its construction was affected by earthquakes and some of its remains used as building materials for other projects within the city.
Today, the well-manicured grounds contain a multitude of flowers, shrubs and trees and provide a peaceful setting for families who desire to have a nice setting for a picnic lunch. Though the complex is not immense, it is nice to explore some of the small rooms and ascend the staircases to the top. At the north end, we looked out over the courtyard and its central fountain toward the towering Volcan de Agua in the distance.
Our final destination took us across the city, now teeming with visitors, here to see the Holy Week processions. It seemed that the city’s population had tripled overnight and we had a difficult time making our way through the parades that journeyed through the streets, now even during the daytime hours.
The festivities reminded me so much of Mardi Gras, with its vendors and convivial atmosphere, yet, without the debauchery. Many people were donning purple robes and the Holy Week processions that we had witnessed during the previous evenings, had grown in size, both in the amount of participants and the proportions of the floats. In the Tanque La Unión, the historic gathering place used by the citizens to wash their clothes during colonial times, there were countless peddlers lining its perimeter and cooking traditional Guatemalan delicacies and dishes which could be purchased. The mournful sounds of the bands could be heard throughout the city, especially in the nearby Convento Santa Clara.
Santa Clara was established in 1734 by the sisters from Puebla, Mexico and four years later, destroyed by the Santa Marta Earthquake and subsequently abandoned.
As we entered, we noticed how much larger this complex was compared to the others we had visited. It was filled with floral blooms and shrubs and like most others, missing most of its ceiling.
Most interesting, however, was the intact church’s stonework facade with is Serbian balustrade pilasters and the arched niches along the nave which served as confessionals in addition to the captivating cloister with its ancient fountain.
Walking along one of the halls, you can stand atop the extended pulpit chair and climb the one remaining stairway adjacent to the cloister. Magnificent views over the convent can be obtained here as well as of the nearby mountains.
As our day was coming to a close, we ducked into the nearby Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol, its front portico packed with those looking to purchase items from the multitude of vendors in the streets and in front of the church or just hoping to get a better view of the processions.
Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol is a smaller baroque church adjacent to San Pedro Hospital. It was designed by Nicolás de Cárcamo and named in honor of Hermano Pedro de San José Betancur, whose tomb we had seen on our second day at the Santuario San Francisco el Grande.
As we stood, once again, on the portico, we looked out into the street and noticed a brightly colored display comprised of pine needles, sawdust and flowers. When the owner of our hotel had mentioned to us that “carpets” were beginning to be laid throughout the city, we innocently envisioned something you would see at a movie screening. Suddenly, the colorful sawdust between the cobblestones and the bags of sawdust and the stencils at the market began to make sense. The night before, we had watched a lady lay pine needles in a cordoned-off section on one of the streets as we walked home. We really had no idea what was transpiring and then it all made sense as we looked down on the street below us.
These were the carpets!
But, did the processions avoid these streets that the carpets were laid down on?
As a procession made its way down our street, we watched as they paraded right through these carpets, destroying the beautiful display. After the procession was complete, there were multiple people following who swept up the remnants, leaving a scattering of sawdust wedged between the paving stones.
Walking home, we began to notice so many of these carpets or “alfombras” lining the streets. It was obvious how much work and time was devoted to these endeavors and we were mesmerized as we walked by and examined these intricate designs which sometimes take months to plan involving multiple members of families and businesses.
Around the corner from our hotel, we noticed two different alfombras being laid. We decided that we could check their progress early in the morning when we were heading to the airport.
During the early morning hours, packing up our suitcases, we were informed by the hotel staff that our driver had called and could not make it to the hotel. Since we would have to the walk the six blocks to meet him, we headed into the darkened streets, only to find them lighted by strong lamps and enlivened with loud music.
As we traversed the distance to our awaiting transportation, we discovered why he could not make it to our hotel. The streets were blocked and people had worked through the night, creating alfrombras everywhere. It was the most amazing sight…beautiful carpets stretching as far as we could see.
Though I snapped as many pictures as I could while walking, the outcome does not show you the impact of what were seeing, plus with the motion and darkened streets, my pictures were not the clearest.
If I had realized what was to come, we might have planned on leaving on the afternoon flight and spending the early morning hours walking around the city, admiring the carpets and watching the processions originate from La Merced (around 4:00 am) when the processioners swap their purple robes to black ones. Still, what we saw was one of the most intriguing spectacles, leading me to think that I need to plan a trip in the future, just to spend time inspecting the alfombras!
As our plane departed Guatemala City a few hours later, I sat back in my seat, thinking of all that we had experienced during the last few days. It was mind boggling how much we accomplished not knowing one thing about Guatemala, Antigua, it history and traditions and yet, discovered, almost by accident.
With so much more to explore in this rich country…Lake Atitlan, the ruins of Tikal, Iximche and Yaxha and miles of beach-lined coast…Guatemala deserves more than just one more day!
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Cemeterio General San Lázaro
Address: Calle San Bartolome Becerra, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
I was finally going to get my chance in Guatemala.
After our arrival, we had set up a tour to climb Pacaya. Though the tour we booked was to be conducted in Spanish, we decided that we could make it work.
Picked up from our hotel, we endured a longer than normal drive due to the heavy traffic. Arriving at the Visitors’ Center in the village of San Francisco de Sales, late in the afternoon, there were so many tour buses and hikers, we were afraid that we would lose our group. Maybe the tour being in Spanish wasn’t such a good idea after all!
After paying our park entrance fee and saying “No, gracias” fifty times when asked if I wanted to buy a hiking stick by the hordes of children hoping to make a few quetzals, our group of approximately fifteen hikers and a tour guide, finally set out on the uphill trail.
No sooner than we began the uphill climb, I began to have a bit of trouble. Now, I’m no Olympic athlete, but I do go to the gym fairly regularly. And yes, I am over the hill, but the altitude and steepness of the climb, however, was no joke. Thankfully, three young men following our group with horses, came to the rescue. You can bet I climbed up on that horse’s back quicker than you can say, “Lava”.
At every lookout point and rest area, I watched everyone sweating profusely and breathing heavy. Me? I just hopped off my horse and attempted to capture the views of the Laguna De Calderas and Mirador Majahue, neither of which we could get a good glimpse of due to the low clouds.
My ride was enjoyable and I suspected we were close to the top when the clouds descended upon us. Separated from the rest of the group, me and another horse rider, were guided up another trail to where the horses are kept and traded out.
Everything was white (and windy) and I was quite ecstatic that I had not exerted myself for no view. As I blindly ambled across the lava field, I saw the Lava Store and thought, “Well, at least I have something to take a picture of…”
Finally, hearing voices in the distance, the rest of the group made their way toward us. As if on cue, the clouds seemed to dissipate a bit and just over the ridge, we could see lava streaming down the side of the volcano!
Thinking about the earthquake a couple of nights prior, it was a bit disconcerting, yet thrilling at the same time! Were we tempting fate? What if there was another earthquake at that moment and it shifted the flow?
Possible? Maybe? But I am no seismologist! And I am definitely not a volcanologist!
Instead of worrying, I happily accepted my stick and marshmallows from my guide and made my way to the heat vents to roast my snack. Amazingly, the heat (probably enough to melt the soles of our shoes if you stood in one location long enough), was sufficient to brown and make them a gooey, bunch of goodness!
Feeling as though we had worn out our welcome, it was time to appease the volcano gods and vacate their unstable residence.
Hopping on my horse, my Guatemalan hostler led me back down the steep path to where our hike originated. Though we were far from the lava flow at this point, I have to admit, I felt as though we weren’t far enough.
Though it was thrilling to see, maybe I wasn’t quite loving the lava!
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Admission: 50Q (about $6.50 US) for park admission, not covered by tour price. Tours run approximately $7-8 US per person and often conducted in Spanish.
Getting There: Many tours are available through hotels and tour companies.
So, why are the colorfully decorated transport buses that you see in Guatemala called chicken buses?
Have you ever seen a truckload of chickens being taken to the processing plant? Crammed together in an enclosed space, this is how Central Americans look (and probably feel) when they travel throughout their countries. And, yes, sometimes crammed into these buses, they transport live animals…probably a chicken or two every now and then.
When American school buses are retired, they are sold at auction and often end up in Central America, modified and painted with bright colors and designs. Easy to spot due to their vibrant paint jobs, religious imagery and verbiage, the bus’s name and permanent route are often inscribed over the front windshield. Their insides (well, that is the most interesting part) are sometimes jazzed up with Christmas lights, tassels and posters and a very loud sound system.
Sounds like fun!
Operated by two people, a driver and the ayudante or helper, they run a tight schedule. Although the driver’s job is extremely important, as he is responsible for the safe passage of his customers, the helper keeps everything running smoothly. From collecting money, to stowing everything from luggage, to livestock and produce…sometimes on the roof of the bus…sometimes while in motion…the ayudante also is responsible for announcing (loudly) the destinations that the bus is reaching.
The self-employed driver and his assistant prefer to keep the buses at capacity to reduce operating costs and sometimes travel at top speed in a hair-raising, nerve-wracking experience. After all, time is money!
Although during our stay in Guatemala, we never had the opportunity to ride one of the chicken buses, we were quite fascinating watching the operation.
Next time, I may give it a go…and bring a chicken or two.
Does fried chicken count?
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Approximate Fares: Outlying communities to Antigua, about 2Q-4.5Q ($0.37-$0.43). From Antigua to Guatemala City and return, about 10Q ($1.25) one way. Children ride for free in the passenger’s lap.
