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While standing on the slopes of Pacaya Volcano, we couldn’t help but feel elated!
I can’t explain the pure joy we were feeling for having chosen to visit Guatemala and the beautiful city of Antigua…for all the things we had seen while we were there…for the friendly Guatemalans that we had encountered…for all of the beauty we had laid our eyes upon!
We were not ready for it to be over and thankfully, we were able to work out another night’s stay with our hotel (not an easy feat with the busy Holy Week)!
In order to make the most of our extra time, we were up early to hit the streets and see everything we had not yet had the time to. Believe me, there was quite a bit, plus more than we would have ever imagined.
First stop was the Cementerio General San Lázaro, just down the street from our hotel. We had not intended to stop here, but it was on the way to the our first destination. Always having been intrigued by old cemeteries, I figured it was worth a quick look.
Walking through the white arched entrance, decorated for Holy Week, we made our way through the municipal cemetery that was created in 1834 by the state major, Mariano Galvez on land that once hosted a leper’s hospital. The maze of white-washed tombs, some displaying the purple decorations for Holy week, was very peaceful and we observed the immaculate grounds. Though there were many mausoleums and smaller tombs, there were just as many that were quite grand. The small colonial church, San Lazaro, at the end of the large initial walkway, contained some interesting statues, both inside and out, and a large gold altar.
Leaving the cemetery, we made our way down the street to our original destination, Convento la Recolección, which I had spotted on my map the night before. We didn’t have any idea of what to expect here, but after paying our admission at the gate, we were blown away by what we found.
In the United States, there are so many building codes that dictate the structural integrity of a building. If a building does not meet these codes, people are most definitely not allowed to enter the premises or in some cases, even approach. On our first day, we were shocked to see how we could wander freely through the ruins of the monasteries that had no barrier walls or guard rails.
Convento la Recolección, took this to a whole different level.
We could see that this structure was missing its roof and that the front walls were crumbling, as approached on the lengthy sidewalk. There were two huge chunks of stone on either side of the sidewalk and we discovered that these were pieces of the same front walls that had collapsed during the great earthquake of 1773.
Approaching the front steps, we looked through the stone archway (surprisingly still intact), to the interior. The floor was littered with boulder-sized remains of the church’s ceiling and columns. There were no barriers or restrictions on where you could walk and we slowly and carefully made our way around the decaying floor, littered with its broken extremities, while staring upwards at the remaining walls, some still displaying its original detailing. Truly one of the most thought provoking places I have ever visited!
This architectural complex was a former church and monastery of the Order of the Recollects, initiated when in 1685, two missionaries of the friars of the Recollects arrived and sought permission for construction of the monastery. Though it was originally determined by the City Council that not enough friars were present to support the venture and that enough monasteries had been established, a royal decree was finally issued for its construction in 1700. Construction commenced in 1701 and continued until 1717 when the church was inaugurated. A short time later that year, earthquakes damaged the church and cloisters. Repairs were carried out, however, the devastating Santa Marta Earthquake of 1773, left the complex in ruins.
Today, the ruins are protected as both a national monument and as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and as we made our way out of the church, we walked into the adjacent monastery grounds. Here, the walls are still standing, but as with the church, the complex is open to the Antiguan heavens. The interior rooms and the former cloister is free of rubble, giving it a different feel than the church. Many of the walls and interior spaces were aged and decrepit, however, there were many traces of the architectural details that once graced its walls.
Heading a few blocks up the road, we found ourselves at our next stop, Convento de San Jeronimo. This complex was once planned as the College of St. Jerome by the Order of Mercy in 1757, however, in 1765, after initial construction was almost demolished, it was decided that the building would be used as the building of the Real Income Alcabalas and Royal Customs, one of the city’s top financial institutions of the time. As with most other buildings within the city, its construction was affected by earthquakes and some of its remains used as building materials for other projects within the city.
Today, the well-manicured grounds contain a multitude of flowers, shrubs and trees and provide a peaceful setting for families who desire to have a nice setting for a picnic lunch. Though the complex is not immense, it is nice to explore some of the small rooms and ascend the staircases to the top. At the north end, we looked out over the courtyard and its central fountain toward the towering Volcan de Agua in the distance.
Our final destination took us across the city, now teeming with visitors, here to see the Holy Week processions. It seemed that the city’s population had tripled overnight and we had a difficult time making our way through the parades that journeyed through the streets, now even during the daytime hours.
The festivities reminded me so much of Mardi Gras, with its vendors and convivial atmosphere, yet, without the debauchery. Many people were donning purple robes and the Holy Week processions that we had witnessed during the previous evenings, had grown in size, both in the amount of participants and the proportions of the floats. In the Tanque La Unión, the historic gathering place used by the citizens to wash their clothes during colonial times, there were countless peddlers lining its perimeter and cooking traditional Guatemalan delicacies and dishes which could be purchased. The mournful sounds of the bands could be heard throughout the city, especially in the nearby Convento Santa Clara.
Santa Clara was established in 1734 by the sisters from Puebla, Mexico and four years later, destroyed by the Santa Marta Earthquake and subsequently abandoned.
As we entered, we noticed how much larger this complex was compared to the others we had visited. It was filled with floral blooms and shrubs and like most others, missing most of its ceiling.
Most interesting, however, was the intact church’s stonework facade with is Serbian balustrade pilasters and the arched niches along the nave which served as confessionals in addition to the captivating cloister with its ancient fountain.
Walking along one of the halls, you can stand atop the extended pulpit chair and climb the one remaining stairway adjacent to the cloister. Magnificent views over the convent can be obtained here as well as of the nearby mountains.
As our day was coming to a close, we ducked into the nearby Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol, its front portico packed with those looking to purchase items from the multitude of vendors in the streets and in front of the church or just hoping to get a better view of the processions.
Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol is a smaller baroque church adjacent to San Pedro Hospital. It was designed by Nicolás de Cárcamo and named in honor of Hermano Pedro de San José Betancur, whose tomb we had seen on our second day at the Santuario San Francisco el Grande.
As we stood, once again, on the portico, we looked out into the street and noticed a brightly colored display comprised of pine needles, sawdust and flowers. When the owner of our hotel had mentioned to us that “carpets” were beginning to be laid throughout the city, we innocently envisioned something you would see at a movie screening. Suddenly, the colorful sawdust between the cobblestones and the bags of sawdust and the stencils at the market began to make sense. The night before, we had watched a lady lay pine needles in a cordoned-off section on one of the streets as we walked home. We really had no idea what was transpiring and then it all made sense as we looked down on the street below us.
These were the carpets!
But, did the processions avoid these streets that the carpets were laid down on?
As a procession made its way down our street, we watched as they paraded right through these carpets, destroying the beautiful display. After the procession was complete, there were multiple people following who swept up the remnants, leaving a scattering of sawdust wedged between the paving stones.
Walking home, we began to notice so many of these carpets or “alfombras” lining the streets. It was obvious how much work and time was devoted to these endeavors and we were mesmerized as we walked by and examined these intricate designs which sometimes take months to plan involving multiple members of families and businesses.
Around the corner from our hotel, we noticed two different alfombras being laid. We decided that we could check their progress early in the morning when we were heading to the airport.
During the early morning hours, packing up our suitcases, we were informed by the hotel staff that our driver had called and could not make it to the hotel. Since we would have to the walk the six blocks to meet him, we headed into the darkened streets, only to find them lighted by strong lamps and enlivened with loud music.
As we traversed the distance to our awaiting transportation, we discovered why he could not make it to our hotel. The streets were blocked and people had worked through the night, creating alfrombras everywhere. It was the most amazing sight…beautiful carpets stretching as far as we could see.
Though I snapped as many pictures as I could while walking, the outcome does not show you the impact of what were seeing, plus with the motion and darkened streets, my pictures were not the clearest.
If I had realized what was to come, we might have planned on leaving on the afternoon flight and spending the early morning hours walking around the city, admiring the carpets and watching the processions originate from La Merced (around 4:00 am) when the processioners swap their purple robes to black ones. Still, what we saw was one of the most intriguing spectacles, leading me to think that I need to plan a trip in the future, just to spend time inspecting the alfombras!
As our plane departed Guatemala City a few hours later, I sat back in my seat, thinking of all that we had experienced during the last few days. It was mind boggling how much we accomplished not knowing one thing about Guatemala, Antigua, it history and traditions and yet, discovered, almost by accident.
With so much more to explore in this rich country…Lake Atitlan, the ruins of Tikal, Iximche and Yaxha and miles of beach-lined coast…Guatemala deserves more than just one more day!
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Cemeterio General San Lázaro
- Address: Calle San Bartolome Becerra, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
- Hours: 0800-1700, daily
- Admission: free
Convento la Recolección
- Address: 1a Calle Poniente, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
- Hours: 0900-1700, daily
- Admission: Nationals, Q5, Central American, Q15, Foreign Student Q20 (about $2.60 US) , Q40 (about $5.25 US) per person
Convento de San Jeronimo
- Address: Alameda de Santa Lucia y 1a Calle Poniente, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
- Hours: 0900-1700, daily
- Admission: Nationals, Q5, Central American, Q15, Foreign Student Q20 (about $2.60 US) , Q40 (about $5.25 US) per person
Convento Santa Clara
- Address: 6a Calle Oriente y 2a Avenida Sur Antigua, Guatemala
- Hours: 0900-1700, daily
- Admission: Nationals, Q5, Central American, Q15, Foreign Student Q20 (about $2.60 US) , Q40 (about $5.25 US) per person
Iglesia San Pedro Apóstol
- Address: Guatemala 03001, 6a Calle Oriente No. 20, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
- Hours: 0800-1700, daily
- Admission: free
Down the road, we headed a short distance, and with the hilly terrain, were glad we didn’t have to walk. Arriving at Q’enqo, our tickets were punched and we entered the premises. Though there wasn’t much signage to let us know what we were seeing, we made our way through the site.
What we learned later, from the book the cab driver gave to us to look through, was that the site was the smallest of the four ruins and was built as a house and ceremonial site for an important Inca citizen. Nestled into a large rock on Socorro Hill, we entered from the rear of the site and found a fully intact ritual altar…a dark reminder of the sacrificial practices of the Incas.
The drive to our next destination wasn’t an extremely long one and we were soon arriving at the former military fortress of Puka Pukara. Located high above Cusco, the small site offers panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and was probably built there to give the military a great view over important parts of the empire. The site consists of large walls, terraces and staircases and is well marked, guiding you throughout.
Just across the highway was the ruins of Tambomachay. A short walk from the road, we anxiously quickened our pace, worried that we would not be able to see everything marked on the map given to us at the entry during our allotted twenty minutes.
Keeping a close eye on the time, it seemed much too soon as we made our way back to the parking area to meet our ride back into town.
As we walked through the large plaza area, Edmundo explained that it was capable of holding thousands of people and was designed for ceremonial activities. The massive terrace walls were the main attraction here, however. The stones used in the wall’s constructions are among the largest used in any building in pre-Hispanic American and so precisely cut and fitted that not even a piece of paper can be inserted between them. The longest wall is approximately 400 meters long and 6 meters tall and appears to be a sort of three dimensional jigsaw puzzle with its largest stone weighing more than 360 tons and 29 feet high. Edmundo pointed out many stones that were cut and placed, forming shapes…a puma’s paw, a llama, a snake, a guinea pig and a bird…shapes we would never have seen had we not had a guide.
As we stood high over the city, the sky darkened and lightening began to flash. So exposed to the elements, we were a bit nervous, however, as accustomed to the ever-changing weather, Edmundo continued his monologue, guiding us through the site, informing us that Sacsayhuamán once had three towers and a labyrinth of rooms large enough to accommodate 5,000 Inca soldiers.
Making our way back down to the parade ground, where the Inti Raymi winter solstice festival is held every June and attended by tens of thousand of spectators, we crossed the massive area over to the Rodadero which was believed to be the religious and ceremonial section. Most of the structures once at the Rodadero were torn down by the Spaniards and later inhabitants of Cusco. We were led down below ground through a passage, ducking our heads to make our way through and emerging above ground in another area. Fun as that was, the best part was coming across the high, smooth rocks that descended in a wavy pattern. Edmundo led me carefully uphill and had me sit. Scooting forward, I began to slide down, faster and faster until I reached the bottom! Yes, the Incas surely must have had fun on this!
As we disembarked and made our way to the entrance, there were many guides seeking to assist visitors. Although we had originally thought we would hire a guide, when we finally made a decision on one particular person, someone hired them before we could. We finally decided to tour the premises on our own, a decision I realized would probably benefit me more than my husband. When I am trying to capture a place photographically, I always feel a bit disrespectful when I am shooting while they are speaking, however, if I don’t capture what I want to and we quickly move on, I feel a bit cheated. Since, it would have been just him and I, it would have been more evident that I was only half listening than when we were part of a group.
As we made our way up the Cultivation Terraces, we found our way to the City Gate and then on to the Cemetery, Funerary Rock and the House of the Guardians, finding that some amazing views of Machu Picchu can be had here.
Half an hour later, we returned to find an even greater number of people on the premises, making descent to the lower portion of Machu Picchu difficult. Spying llama nearby, we used them as a distraction for a while to rest up for the fight down the stairways.
Following the crowds, we made our way past the Temple of the Three Windows, the Main Temple and the Main Square with park directors keeping everyone on the path and moving in one direction. Eventually, we made it to the Sacred Rock and noticed the entrance to Huayna Picchu, the starting point to an arduous climb to the soaring pinnacle. Though we had had the opportunity to purchase tickets for the climb, staring up at this peak and the minuscule figures making their way up the steep paths, we were glad that we had skipped that part. Though I am not afraid of heights, I couldn’t image making my way up to the top…I was having trouble with the lack of oxygen in the higher altitudes on some of the simpler paths.
Bracing myself for the lack of oxygen required for the climb, we followed our guide and the rest of the Pachamama Group (Mother Earth), as we were now known. Tickets purchased and validated, we were led up another hill past a small market offering colorful blankets, hats and trinkets to a plaza in front of a beautiful adobe church.
Though we were only able to inspect the church’s exterior, we learned that it was constructed in 1607 by the Spanish on the site of an Incan palace, believed to be that of Inca Tupac Tupanqui. The interior was described to be quite lovely with ornate painted ceilings and Catholic and traditional motifs.
Moving on to the open area past the church, we gazed out onto the beautiful, green, mountainous landscape and the fertile terraces and aqueducts, many still in use today. Produce grown on the land includes potatoes, olluco, oca, quinoa and fava beans and are sold at the local market. The ruins of the summer palace of Tupac Tupanqui can still be seen spilling down the hillside with splendid stonework and a stone throne with intricate carvings.
After boarding our bus, we headed a short distance down the road into the center of Chinchero. Home to the Interpretation Center of Andean Textiles, the traditionally dressed women of the village offer weaving demonstrations to visitors, describing the age-old methods of making colors for the wool, and how the wool is washed, dyed and spun.
After a vibrantly woven hat caught my eye, I made a deal with one of the young men working on the premises and then exited to the bus for our next stop, Moray.
Located about 27 kilometers from Chinchero, Moray, is believed to have been used as an agricultural laboratory by the Incas. Though not much more is known, there is speculation that the amphitheater-looking, circular, terraced depressions were used to test and experiment with crops. With temperature differences at each level of the terraces of 15 degrees Celsius, it is believed that each level was used to grow different crops and to test hybridization. Possibly, the many variations of potato grown in Peru originated at Moray.
The mineral-rich (magnesium, iron, calcium and zinc) salt is said to have healing properties and claim to help reduce stress and prevent conditions such as anemia and osteoporosis, in addition to being handy in the kitchen.
Continuing our journey in the mid-day, it was time to head to Urubamba and our lunch. Our group was divided into three and we were all dropped off at different restaurants, though I am not sure what differentiated us into these groups, guessing that it may have been the price we paid for each of our tours. My husband and I and two other couples were deposited at Inka’s House, a large buffet-style restaurant. The food was good at our lunch spot, though others claimed their restaurant was not very good.
As I began the arduous task of making my way to the top, I decided to revel in the climb and enjoy the view every time I had to stop for a breath. Slowly, I climbed, joining forces with another woman, who also insisted she couldn’t make it to the top. With much encouragement for each other, I finally caught up to my husband to the entrance to the temple complex, a short distance from the top.
The Temple of the Sun, an incomplete holy place holds the Wall of the Six Monoliths with its 50 ton stones and is the sight where all the tourists want to take their picture, showing the completion of their ascent. The temple was used as a calendar with its sun dials and other features.
Exiting the fortress area, we made our way through the Mercado Turistico. Taking a quick glance around, it was a colorful affair and we wished that time was included in our itinerary to browse the vendor’s stalls. Quickly grabbing two waters, we fought the crowds to keep up with our group and make our way back to our bus. Once on board, we discovered a few empty seats. No, we hadn’t lost anyone on the mountain, some of our group left us at this point to catch the train to Aguas Calientes, beginning their sojourn to Machu Picchu.
Making our way out of town, we headed up into the mountains. Our guide explained that since the gates to Pisac close at 4:00, we had to drive rather quickly in order to enter. Watching the clock closely as the day was coming to a close, we finally arrived with minutes to spare. Making our way to the parking area, we exited the bus an followed our guide up the terraced hillside to the citadel which sits at 9,751 feet, keeping watch over the village below.
The wind was strong here and as the day was drawing to a close, we quickly walked through the site back to the parking lot and waiting bus, pausing to pose for a quick photo under the entrance sign.
Our last stop was in the town of Pisac, one that I had been very excited about. I had heard great things about their famous market and looked forward to purchasing some unique souvenirs. However, as we drove down the mountain, the sky was growing dark leading me to realize that the market would probably be closing upon our arrival. My prediction was accurate, but we were brought to a jewelry store for a lesson on assessing the quality of silver. Since it was communicated in Spanish, we attempted to understand, however, it was easier to browse the merchandise.
Looking for a “Trajan Market” sign (or the Italian equivalent) marking the entrance, I must have walked past the actual entrance three or four times before I realized that the Museum of the Imperial Fora was where I needed to be.
Walking to the far end of the building, I utilized the stairway and headed to the courtyard on the side of the market. Here, current exhibitions are on display and I was pleasantly surprised to discover The Spiral, an installation designed by artist Luminita Taranu, inspired by the Trajan’s Column. I loved the colorful hues and metals used in the creation of this masterpiece…and I loved the photo opportunities it presented!
Walking back through the interior part of the compound, I took more time to inspect the intricacies of the construction and the pieces that occupied its interior.
Entering the complex near the Arch of Titus, we discovered many paths throughout to survey the area in its entirety, encompassing the two basilicas, Fulvia Aemilia, a 100 meter public hall with a two-story porticoed facade dating back to 179 BC and Basilica Julia, built by Julius Caesar on the site of Basilica Sempronia in 54 BC. The Tempio di Antonino e Faustina, erected in AD 141 and transformed into a church in the 8th century (Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Miranda) and the Temple of Romulus are two of the most intact buildings on the premises. Near the Temple of Romulus, you will find the Basilica of Maxentius, the largest building on the forum, originally measuring 100 meters by 65 meters.
Also on the Via Sacra, we discovered the Casa delle Vestali, the home of the virgins who tended the sacred flame in the Tempio di Vesta. These priestesses, aged between six and ten years, were selected from aristocratic families to serve in the temple for thirty years. So great was the responsibility of keeping both the flame and their virginity intact that the penalty of flogging and/or death was imposed for those who did not adhere to the orders. The statues which honor these virgins line the Via Sacra and though most are in good condition, a many are missing their heads.
At the end of the Via Sacra, we came upon the Arco di Settimio Severo, a 23 meter high structure, built in AD 203 and dedicated to the emperor and his two sons, Caracalla and Geta. The arch commemorated the Roman victory over the Parthians.
The remains of the Rostri could be seen in front of the arch. This elaborate podium was the site of Mark Antony’s famous, “Friends, Romans and countrymen…” speech. Facing the Rostri is the Colonna di Foca (Column of Phocus) which fronts what once was the Forum’s main square.
Palatine Hill is connected to the Forum and at the center of the seven hills of Rome. Standing above the Forum, it was once the place where Imperial palaces were built. Heading uphill, we made our way through the grounds.
The Houses of Augustus and Livia, are still standing and in good condition and house some impressive art and frescoes. Tours of both of these impressive structures are available, however, advance tickets were required and we were not in possession. If you can secure them ahead of time, it is worth the effort in order to check out Augustus’ private study.
The Palatine Museum is also open to the public and contains a display of Roman statuary and findings from the hippodrome, however, being the end of our day, we decided that this would have to wait until another visit.
The construction of this temple was begun in the 6th century by Pisistratus, the son of Hippocrates, also known as the Tyrant of Athens, who desired to pay tribute to the Olympian Zeus (originating from his position as head of the Olympian gods). Due to a lack of funding and the disestablishment of his son in 510 BC, construction ceased. Other attempts were made to finish the temple, by the Macedonians and Anthiochus, however, there was no completion until the Emperor Hadrian made the effort seven hundred years later.
Though the site is not extensive, take some time to enjoy the ruins and make sure not to miss the archaeological site on the edge of the property, highlighting some ancient structures uncovered there. Not one of the sites that most people aspire to visit, you can often find it uncrowded and enjoyable and you are able to obtain nice photos, especially in the afternoon when the sun hits the columns, almost making them glow against the perpetually cerulean sky. You can also combine your visit with a quick stop to Hadrian’s Arch located just outside the gates of the temple.
Taking in the beautiful countryside scenery, you will soon find yourself encountering the ruins of Rosslyn Castle, a sharp contrast to the well-preserved chapel that we had just visited.
A French influenced two story home stands to the left of the courtyard, also built by William Sinclair, when he extended the castle between 1582 and 1597. Though the home is still in good condition, it is not accessible to the public.
As we descended a path near the start of the bridge, we walked beneath the remaining castle walls toward the river’s edge. Here, gardens once prospered and provided food for those who resided in the castle. The river gurgled and wound its way through the forest and we walked over the footbridge to take a closer look. We learned later that there is a scenic river walk from the ruins of the Roslin Gunpowder Mills, through what used to be a carpet factory and cottages, across the North Esk, around the castle, below the chapel via Gardener’s Brae and to Hawthornden and beyond.
Taking the short walk on our return back to the bus stop, we stopped for a few moments to pay our respect at the Rosslyn Cemetery.
While out at Rosslyn Chapel, make time to explore the forgotten ruin, an important part of Scotland’s and the Sinclair family history.