Let’s Talk About Sex

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

WARNING:  Photos featured in this post depict sex,sexual content and nudity.  Photos are censored, however, if easily offended, please tune in later for other posts. 

There are those who don’t like to talk about sex.

And, there are those who do.

And those who like to see it.

Amsterdam, a very liberal place, is one of extreme freedom.  Marijuana is legal as well as prostitution.  Sex shows can be found in the red light district in addition to a few museums, depicting the sex trade and erotica.

One museum, the Sexmuseum Venustempel, located on busy Damrak Street, has been around since 1985, welcoming curious visitors by the thousands.  With its convenient location near Amsterdam’s Central Station and many of the city’s hotels, plus its relatively cheap admission, it has evolved into one of the most visited museums in the Netherlands, with 675,000 visitors in 2015 alone.

Having visited the museum about twenty years ago, when I was younger, I knew that I probably remembered it in a different way.  Aware of what it offered, I was curious to see what changes, if any, had take place after all these years.

The museum’s full name is Sexmuseum-Temple of Venus and the first thing you encounter is a full sized figure of Venus at the entry.

After issuing a greeting to Venus, I paid my admission and made my way inside looking for a familiar display…and there he was!

The flasher.

“Pssst!”  He whispers from a dark nook.  A motorized figure moves forward, whipping his coat open.  Well, you can figure out the rest!

Moving on, life-sized wax figures of Mata Hari and her male partners stand proudly to the right side of the room.  In the rear, a long line waits for entry into the fetish room, offering hundreds of pictures of different types of fetishes including domination, exhibitionism, nudism, bondage and larger partners.

Guiding yourself through the rooms, each offers a view into different types of sex or cultural views of sex.  Downstairs you’ll detour through the dimly lit prostitution room, depicting the sex act as it may have been a couple of hundred years ago, as well as a displays on erotic pastries and African erotic art and fertility gods.

As you make your way up the stairs, plastic body parts line the stairwell and each floor offers encounters with various exhibits including Asian Art, Sex Through the Ages, Sex and Artists (with a depiction of Rembrandt painting a nude subject, Demons and Sex and numerous phallic representations, displayed singularly and in groupings.  In the architecturally compelling atrium, which houses the Venus Gallery, make sure to look up at the window where a leather clad sex worker perches asymmetrically atop a stool.

Finally, I encountered something else that I remembered from all those years ago…Marilyn Monroe.

Yes, Marilyn, the sex symbol from the 1950s.  Her life-sized wax figure reproduces the iconic scene from her movie The Seven Year Itch in which she fights the upward breeze from the subway grate blowing her white dress.

The rich and interesting collection offers hundreds of pieces of art, unique objects, rare old photographs brought together in an interesting way.

Though not for those easily offended, the museum is both amusing at times and quite compelling.  Judging from people’s reactions when I mentioned that I visited, it is also probably not what most people imagine it to be.  You’ll definitely get your five euros worth (and maybe more!).

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Sexmuseum Amsterdam

  • http://www.sexmuseumamsterdam.nl/
  • Address:  Damrak 18, 1012 LH Amsterdam, Netherlands
  • Hours:  Daily, 0930-2330
  • Admission:  €5.00.  Minimum age, 16 years
  • Getting There:  Walk from the Central Station direction Dam (2 minutes) or from the Dam square direction to the station (5 minutes).

 

The Skinny Bridge

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Connecting the banks of the Amstel river at Kerkstraat, between Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht is the Magere Brug.

A well known story, often related to tourists visiting Amsterdam, is that of two wealthy sisters living on opposite sides of the Amstel River.  Desiring to find a way to visiting each other easily, the sisters decided to have a bridge built to assist them on their endeavor.  Lacking the funds to build a bridge of adequate width, they settled for one so narrow that two pedestrians were unable to pass each other during their crossing.

The Skinny Bridge.

Built in 1934 by Piet Kramer and renovated in 1969, the current structure was preceded by bridges on the site, one of which was first built in 1691.  This bridge, the Kerkstraatbrug, had thirteen arches and was extremely narrow.  Nicknamed the magere brug or “skinny bridge” this bridge remained in use until 1871 when it was demolished and replaced by a nine arched wooden bridge.  After fifty years of use, plans were made to replace the link with a steel and stone structure, however, it was the city’s decision to remain with a bridge resembling the previous ones, only slightly larger.

Though the bridge, which has accommodated only pedestrians and cyclists since 2003, is high enough for the many low-profiled sightseeing boats to pass without opening, the bridge is opened throughout the day for other river traffic.  In 1994, the bridge’s opening was automated, however, prior to that time, a bridge keeper was responsible for opening the bridge several times a day by hand.

An acclaimed landmark, located opposite the Royal Carré Theatre, thousands of visitors, including lovers, photographers and film buffs (the bridge was highlighted in a number of films, such as James Bond, Diamonds Are Forever), visit the bridge each year, especially at night, when it’s beauty is unsurpassed, lit by 1200 lights.

While visiting the canal-ringed city, head on over to the Amstel River and the Magere Brug for a photo op.  Although not one of a kind, make it your first stop before finding the others located throughout the city, at the Staalstraat/Grimburgwal, Nieuve Herengracht, Rapenburg, Prinseneiland and Bickerseiland.  Truly awe-inspiring!

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Magere Brug

  • Address:  Kerkstraat, 1017 AK Amsterdam

A Place To Pee

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

No doubt about it, women have more trouble finding restroom facilities than men.  And, when they do, they often find long lines.

Men, on the other hand, have it easy.  They can find a dark corner, a tree and on the streets of Amsterdam, public urinals.

One particular urinal in Amsterdam is the “go to” place.  A much esteemed latrine, it is located, on the canal, near the building that once housed the new wing of City Hall, thus earning it the name City Hall urinal.

It’s location, however, is not it’s redeeming factor.  The urinal (unbelievably) has earned National Monument status!

Built in 1926, the structure is quite unlike other urinals scattered throughout the city.  Most are plain, silver structures and others resemble large green garbage bins.  What sets this particular urinal apart is that its actually quite attractive, having been designed in accordance with principles drawn from Amsterdamse School of Architecture.

During the era of Amsterdamse School, architects in the Netherlands were experimenting with new forms and developing remarkable designs, which included red brick motifs and elegant, curved facades.  These architects were often involved with municipal projects, many commissioned by Amsterdam’s local government, producing avant-garde residential and public buildings.  Aside from the well known, Het Schip and the Olympic Stadium, the architects worked on civic and utilitarian amenities including bridges, postboxes and yes, public toilets.

Though a small example of the Amsterdamse School’s ideals, the City Hall Urinal captures its essence with its curved western wall and modern statue, fist raised in the air, created by Hildo Krop, one of Amsterdam’s most prominent sculptors. Definitely a must see for architecture aficionados!

So, if you are male and have frequented one or more of Amsterdam’s thousands of bars or cafe’s and find yourself in need of relief, head on over to the protected monument, City Hall Urinal, that is, if you can stand the ripe odor emanating from the building.

Women, sorry, you might have to find a McDonald’s!

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City Hall Urinal

  • Address:  195-197 Oudezijds Voorburgwal, Amsterdam, Netherlands.  Near the intersection of Damstraat and Oudezijds Voorburgwal on the eastern side of the Oudezijds Achterburgwal canal.
  • Admission:  free

Collections on the Canals

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The narrow houses that line the canals in Amsterdam once housed the wealthiest and most illustrious families in the city.

The Cromhout family was one of these.

Setting out on my bike and riding along the canals, I passed throngs of tourists out enjoying a sunny break in the otherwise rainy afternoon.   Searching for the Biblical Museum, I eyed each of the canal houses until finally finding the correct one and parked my bike.   Trying the door, I discovered it to be locked.

Noticing a couple of people entering the adjacent doorway, I glanced upwards to find that it was the entrance to the Cromhout Museum.  Amazingly enough, I found that the Cromhout Museum and the Bible Museum are housed in the Cromhouthuis and are covered under one ticket price.  Two for the price of one is always good!

Problem was…I wasn’t quite sure what the Cromhout Museum was.

Years ago, Amsterdam’s elite sought to fill their time by traveling and collecting treasures from around the globe to decorate their beautiful homes.  Displaying their costly possessions was relished and provided fodder for conversations during parties.  The items were collected during their travels and nothing was deemed irrelevant…portraits, silver, preserved sea creatures, clocks, skulls…anything that made the owners appear to be more worldly and offer up opportunities for debate and discussion was what was sought after.

The Cromhouthuis is a collectors’ house, telling the story of the Cromhout family and is today home to some extraordinary Amsterdam collections.

During my visit to the Cromhouthuis, an exhibit was displayed entitled “Gold! Watches and Jewelry by Sophia Lopez Suasso”.  Sophia Lopez Suasso-de Bruijn (1816-1890), the daughter of a Dutch merchant, was a unique collector who enjoyed amassing nineteenth-century watches by famous makers, gem-encrusted brooches and ingenious snuff boxes from Switzerland, France and Italy.  After marrying Lord Augustus Pieter Lopez Suasso, scion of a Portuguese Jewish family in 1860, she began her collection during their frequent travels around Europe, where they also acquired bronze sculpture, medals and coins, books and costumes.  Upon her husband’s death in 1877, she continued to collect and remained a regular customer of H. Martens Jewelers in Amsterdam.

In 1888, Sophia purchased the contents of the Museum Broeker House and established in her will that her own house be dedicated as a museum upon her death.  The city, to whom she left her estate, deemed her home unsuitable and instead built the Stedelijk Museum to accommodate her collection which includes watches in unique forms, such as animals, flowers, fruit and musical instruments, each with hidden switches to reveal the actual watch.  All of the watches and jewelry were made of gold and decorated with diamonds, gems and enamel.

The Suasso collection is disbursed throughout the Cromhout Museum, mainly on the second level, and is interspersed with the family’s prized collections.  The home itself is also worth inspection as it gives a glimpse into the way of life that the families of this time period were accustomed.

When visitors to the Cromhout family arrived, they were received in the Antechamber, where a cabinet of curiosities, its drawers and cabinets filled with extraordinary natural phenomena, exotic items and unique hand-made artifacts, was located.  The guests were then allowed into the Grand Salon, where parties were held and guests were entertained.  The family’s art collection, a symbol of their status, was highlighted during a stroll around the first floor.

Artist Jacob de Wit, then young and relatively unheard of, was commissioned to paint the ceiling of the Cromhouthuis in 1718, one of his first ceiling pieces.   The grand work of art depicts twelve Olympic gods, surrounded by personifications of the seasons, the points of the compass and the zodiac.

Two kitchens are also located in the home, one small and one large.  The large, used for cooking since construction, was located in the basement so that temperatures remained cool and food stayed fresher for longer periods of time.  The small kitchen, older than the rest of the home, was incorporated into the construction from a smaller house on the property.  The red and green tiles were sourced from the Swedish island of Öland in the Baltic Sea.

In the rear of the property, the Cromhouthuis garden, is worth stepping out for a look, especially during a nice Dutch day.  Although once longer than it is today, the design is one of order and symmetry and quite beautiful during the spring.

Since the Biblical Museum is also located on the premises, many biblical references were added to the garden’s design by landscape architect Jan Van Der Horst who incorporated an 18th century geometric pattern into the design and decorated the garden with plants and trees featured in the bible.  The pools with stepping stones are a reference to the crossing of the Red Sea and the sculpture by Martie Van Der Loo represents the Apocalypse.

Finally, I made my way to the top floor of the Cromhouthuis, home of the Bible Museum, making sure to admire and appreciate the elaborate staircase commissioned for the Cromhout home.

Since 1975, the upper floors of the Comhouthuis have housed the Biblical Museum.  Having expected to find rows upon rows of dusty books, I instead found a light airy space consisting of biblical models, antiquities, archaeological finds and first edition bibles.

The main room exhibits many ancient texts, including the oldest Bible printed in the Netherlands, dating from 1477, a first edition of the 1637 Dutch Authorized Version and the Van Noordwijk collection, an assemblage of religious books with silver coverings.  A facsimile copy of a Dead Sea scroll from Qumran containing the Book of Isaiah is also highlighted.

Adjacent rooms exhibit models of temples including a famous model of the Tabernacle, commissioned by the founder of the museum, Rev Leendert Schouten.  This 19th century reconstruction uses materials mentioned in the Bible, including goat’s wool imported from Syria for the awning and sand from the Sinai desert.

Egyptian antiquities are also displayed including artifacts collected by Schouten in the 19th century.  Inscribed stone slabs, funerary figurines, canopic jars (for mummified remains), scarabs, statues of the gods and a sarcophagus were intended to be laid out around the Tabernacle to give visitors an impression of the religious life of the ancient Egyptians.  The most impressive item is a complete mummy of a young woman.  Other unique items include oil lamps, clay tablets, earthenware, shards of pottery and coins.

Be sure to climb up to the loft area to observe varying photographic presentations.

Though my intentions were to only visit the Biblical Museum, I must admit that visiting the Cromhouthuis and its exhibition on the Soussa collection were the highlight of the my outing.  Though probably not a museum that I would have picked out of a guidebook, it was a wonderful way to spend a drizzly afternoon and learn about the illustrious history of the Netherlands and their .

But let’s not forget the Bibles…they were pretty cool too!

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Cromhouthuis

  • https://www.cromhouthuis.nl/en
  • Address:  Herengracht 368, Amsterdam
  • Hours:  Tuesday – Sunday, 1100-1700.  Closed Monday
  • Admission:  Adults, 10€, Children 0-18 years, free.  CJP, Student Card, 6,50€, Museumcard, I Amsterdam City Card, Stadspass, Rembrandtpass, ICOM and Holland Pass voucher, free.  Ticket also valid for Bible Museum, located on top floor.
  •  Admission includes free audio tour
  •  Gold!,  this year’s winter show, is on display until 2 April 2018
     Bijbels Museum (Biblical Museum)
  • https://www.bijbelsmuseum.nl/en
  • Address:  Herengracht 366-368, Amsterdam
  • Hours:  Tuesday-Sunday, 1100-1700
  • Admission:  Adults, 10€, Children 0-18 years, free.  CJP, Student Card, 6,50€, Museumcard, I Amsterdam City Card, Stadspass, Rembrandtpass, ICOM and Holland Pass voucher, free.  Ticket also valid for Cromhout Museum, located on bottom floors.

Barges of Blooms

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One of the most colorful and fragrant places in Amsterdam, the Bloemenmarkt, or Amsterdam Flower Market, is the only floating flower market in the world.

Located on the renowned Singel Canal, the market dates from 1862, the flower stalls stand on houseboats and remind visitors of the old days when the market was supplied daily by boat on the Amstel River.  Comprised of fixed barges, each with a glasshouse built atop, it provides the the optimum environment for flowers throughout the year. Throughout the market, there is an abundance of activity and merchandise with tulips, narcissus, geraniums, snowdrops, carnations, violets, peonies, orchids and other types of flowers available for purchase.  The flowers are available as bouquets, single flowers and bulbs and a large variety of the bulbs are packaged and ready for export (be sure they have a customs cleared stamp on the packet).  House plants, herbs and seeds can also be found.

Even when not in full bloom as during the spring and summer months, the market is worth a visit.  During December, there are Christmas trees, wreaths and other greenery.

If you don’t want to go thought the hassle of visiting agriculture upon your re-entry into the United States, there are a wide variety of Dutch souvenirs available for purchase, including clogs, wooden tulips and cheese.

Rain or shine, if you love color and flowers, make the Bloemenmarkt a part of your trip to the Venice of the North.  Though the best months to experience the market is in March, April or May, it is a great spot to find tulips or just enjoy the atmosphere at any time of the year!

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The Bloemenmarkt

  • Address:  Singel 630-600, 1017 AZ Amsterdam, The Netherlands
  • Hours:  Monday to Saturday, 0900-1730, Sunday, 1130-1730
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  The Amsterdam Flower Market is located on the Singel canal between the Koningsplein and the Muntplein.  Tram lines 1, 2, 5 and 16 can be taken from Central Station.

Honey, I Shrunk the Netherlands!

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

What if I told you that I saw all of the Netherlands’ major cities in one day?

You wouldn’t believe me…

Well, it’s true…or almost.

For years, I have seen ads for Madurodam in the Hague, the capital city of the province of South Holland, and I always thought that it would be an interesting place to visit.  With no other plans for the day, it was time…

Although it was quite cool outside, the sun was out and I was in the mood for an adventure.  Heading out early to the train station, I was soon on my way to the Hague and Madurodam.

After arriving at Den Hague Central Station, it was a short wait for Tram 9, which would take me to Madurodam.

Jumping off of the tram at my designated stop, I stopped to admire the modern architecture while approaching the building.  Purchasing my ticket, I walked from the lobby into the miniature park…wow…the Netherlands in 1:25 scale!

Opened in 1952, the park is named for George Maduro, a Jewish law student from Curaçao.  After fighting the Nazi occupations forces as a member of the Dutch resistance, he died at Dachau concentration camp and was the only person of Antillean descent to be awarded the Knight 4th-class of the Military Order of William.  After World War II, his parents donated the necessary capital to build the park in honor of their only son and a replica of his birthplace in Curaçao was added to the park in his honor.

Madurodam, visited by millions of people each year, is the perfect place to experience everything that makes Holland so unique.   Divided into three themes, Water, As A Friend and An Enemy, Historical Cities and The Netherlands As An Inspiration For the World, the park showcases canal houses, tulip fields, a cheese market, a wooden shoe factory, windmills, the Peace Palace and the Delta Works…all in miniature.

As I walked through the park, I must admit, my first impression was that I was visiting an attraction probably best enjoyed by the younger set.  Had I traveled all this way by mistake?  Once I arrived at the Schiphol Airport exhibit with its moving airplanes, (even Delta’s) however, I was enthralled.

Having traveled throughout the Netherlands, I have seen much of its beauty and many of its municipalities.  As I moved to the rear of the property with reproductions of many of the Netherlands’ cities, I developed a game to check out each city exhibit before reading the accompanying signs and identify it by its buildings and landmarks.  As an avid photographer, I especially enjoyed positioning my camera to get the best shots of these tiny cities…with the results, in some cases, you have no idea that you are looking at a photo of a model, so detailed are the displays.

When obtaining your tickets upon entry, a chip card accompanies your purchase.  At many of the exhibits, there are informative aspects…swipes of the card trigger bridges, factories, fires on oil tankers, televisions stands showing brief video footage, in-depth information, light shows and my favorite…playing DJ at the concert venue!

There are two restaurants on the property, a cool playground for children, and an extra large scale display of the Netherlands’ most widely identifiable object…the tulip.   Here, you can sit among these giant tulips for countless photo opportunities.

Another attraction, explains the beginning of the Netherlands in 1572.  Hof van Nederland (Dutch Court) is located at the rear of the property and unlike the small-scale displays, is life sized. The best part of the entire park, however, is that the entirety of the net proceeds from the park go towards various charities in the Netherlands!

One should always remember that while it is absolutely a wonder to visit the landmarks of this fabulous country, you can never forget what makes it truly special…its people.  While touring Madurodam, pay close attention to the tiny people in each of the displays showing the real life of the Dutch.  The “residents” of Madurodam have become a bit more diverse over the years, depicting those who have migrated from other countries.  My favorite tidbit of information pertaining to these residents is that they reflect the changing environment.  In the winter, they wear sweaters and coats and in summer, t-shirts!

So, go to the Hague…release your inner child and see all of the things that make the Netherlands famous…the Rijksmuseum, the Binnenhof, Schiphol, the Port of Rotterdam, traditional Dutch canal houses, tulip fields and windmills.  It’s the best way to see the country…especially if you are limited with your time!

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Madurodam

  • https://madurodam.nl/en/
  • Address:  George Maduroplein 1,  2584 RZ Den Haag,  The Netherlands
  • Hours: Jan 9-Feb 24, 1100-1700, Feb 25-Mar 5, 1000-1700, Mar 6-Mar 22, 1100-1700, Mar 23- Sep 3, 0900-2000, Sep 4-Oct 31, 0900-1700, Nov 1-Dec 23, 1100-1700, Dec 24-Jan 7, 1100-2000
  • Admission:  Day ticket, €16.50 (Online, €14.50), Children (ages 0-3), free,
  • Getting There:  Tram 9 from Den Haag Centraal Station towards Scheveningen Noorderstrand, stop Madurodam.  Tram 9 from Hollands Spoor Station towards Scheveningen Noorderstrand, stop Madurodam.  Bus 22 from Scheveningen beach towards Duinzigt, stop Plesmanweg or by Tram 9 towards Vrederust, stop Madurodam.
  • Scheveningen beach: by bus 22 towards Duinzigt, stop Plesmanweg or by tram 9 towards Vrederust, stop Madurodam

Gothic Grandeur

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As you walk onto the central market square in Haarlem, you are greeted with an impressive site and an important landmark…the Gothic-style St. Bavo’s Church.

Having visited this church once before, I was anxious to set foot inside and rephotograph the interior and gaze upon one of the things I most wanted to see again, the Muller organ.

One of the most historically important organs, it was decorated by artist Jan Van Logteren and built by Amsterdam organ builder, Christian Muller between 1735 and 1738.   At its completion, it was the largest organ in the world, played by many famous musicians including Mendelssohn, Handel and Mozart, at the early age of 10, and described by Herman Melville in the book, Moby Dick:

“Seeing all these colonnades of bone so methodically ranged about, would you not think you were inside of the great Haarlem organ, and gazing upon its thousand pipes?”

Though I have yet to be present for one of the concerts held regularly in the church, it is something that I aspire to attend in the future as all through the year, special opening times are organized so that the public can walk in free of charge to listen to the famous organ in action.

Originally a Catholic cathedral consecrated in 1559, St-Bavokerk was converted to Protestantism in 1958.  Walking through the interior of the church, it is hard to fathom that this expansive church was once a Catholic cathedral.  Lacking the embellished ornamentation that you usually find in most cathedrals, the only commonality would be the stained glass windows, however, the lack thereof is a source of interest.  Haarlem was once an important center for stained glass in the 16th century, however, many of the original windows, have been lost to neglect.  Today, the lack of historic, colorful windows has been remedied by installing windows from other, demolished or defunct churches.  In addition, modern artists have created new pieces…a beautiful, large blue window hangs on the northern side and can be seen when entering the double doors on the Groenmarkt and was created by local glass artist Michel van Overbeeke.

Throughout the church’s floor, a large number of carvings can be seen marking the graves of many illustrious Haarlemers. Until 1831, graves were allowed within the church and many plaques hanging on the walls represent the shields of illustrious families and mark the family’s graves below them.  Many famous people are buried in individual graves within the church such as Pieter Teyler van der Hulst and Willen van Heythuisen.  Other notorious burials include painters Frans Hals and Maarten van Heemskerck and two circus curiosities, the giant Danial Cajanus and his midget friend Jan Paap.

Lastly, moving from the interior to the market square, take in the Gothic exterior and the low buildings built up against it, most notably the former fish market, De Vishal, now used for modern art exhibitions.   The most striking piece of architecture is the Grote Kerk Tower which houses a big bourdon bell that sounds on the hour.  A short tune is also played every seven and half minutes.  Other bells include a carillon which is played weekly on market days.  On Tuesdays in the summer, a concert of the carillon is held just before the weekly organ concert.

After your visit, step out into the Grote Markt and take in the statue of Laurens Janszoon Coster, the inventor of a printing press from Haarlem, believed to have done so simultaneously with Johannes Gutenberg (see my post, Germany, Mainz, Museum Time in Mainz).  Grab a bite to eat at the many resturants that line the square and check out the many things to see in the history rich city.

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St. Bavo’s Church (Grote Kerk)

  • http://www.bavo.nl/
  • Address:  Grote Markt 22 (noordzijde), 2011 RD Haarlem
  • Hours:  Monday through Saturday, 1000-1700, August and September, also Sundays 1200-1700
  • Admission: Adults, €2.50, Youth (12-16 years), €11.25, Children (0-12 years), free, Guided Tour, Adults, €5.00

 

 

The Hiding Place

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Amsterdam has the Anne Frank House.  Haarlem has the Corrie Ten Boom Museum.

During World War II, many Jews knew of a hiding place in Haarlem…19 Barteljorisstraat, the site of the Ten Boom family’s watchmaking business.  With the comings and goings of the business’ many customers, it was the perfect hiding place since it did not arouse suspicion.

Corrie, the youngest of the four Ten Boom children, the first female licensed as a watchmaker in Holland and a devout Christian, realized the horrors that were coming to pass in the Netherlands and decided that she and her family had the opportunity to help those in need.

Arriving in Haarlem, I made my way to the Corrie Ten Boom museum near the Grote Markt.  Standing in the alley, I watched the tour guides arrive and enter the museum and other tourists approach and wait patiently behind me in line.  As the clock on nearby St. Bavo’s church chimed the top of the hour, we were escorted into the museum and up the stairs into the Ten Boom’s former living room.

I knew that this was an important museum.  I knew that Jews had hidden here in this home, but among those in my group, I was the only person who had not read Corrie’s book, “The Hiding Place” nor did I really know the story behind it.

Our tour guide narrated a tale for half an hour, detailing Corrie’s childhood, the impending Holocaust and how the family came to assist those in need.  We moved into Corrie’s bedroom and observed the secret room behind the false wall which served to hide as many as seven people at a time, including Jews and members of the Dutch underground.  Additional refugees would stay with the Ten Booms for a few hours or a few days until another “safe house” could be located for them.

Corrie, the ringleader of the underground network, spent much of her time searching for those in need and for those who would take them in and care for them.  It is estimated that approximately 800 lives were saved by the Ten Boom family and their friends.

As we moved throughout the rooms of the museum, we were witness to many photographs and personal items and learned that the family, were eventually betrayed by an informant.  As a result of the betrayal, the entire family was arrested and imprisoned, in Scheveningen Prison and Ravensbruck concentration camp.  Sadly, Corrie was the only survivor of the experience.  After a clerical error resulted in her release, Corrie returned to the Netherlands and decided to continue the ministry that she and her sister Betsy started while in the concentration camp.

Setting up a rehabilitation center in Bloemendaal for concentration camp survivors and the jobless Dutch who had previously collaborated with the Germans, she continued to assist those in need.  Returning to Germany in 1946, she then traveled the world as a public speaker, appearing in more than 60 countries, wrote many books and finally emigrated to Placentia, California before her death at 91 years of age.

The museum, which has been refurbished to appear as it did in the 1940’s, was probably the most humbling and inspiring places I have ever visited.  Though quite small and only open on certain days, it was certainly worth the 15 minute train ride from Amsterdam Central Station, the 15 minute walk from Haarlem Central Station and will be worth the $6.99 purchase price of the Kindle book “The Hiding Place” so that I can learn more about this fascinating woman.

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Corrie Ten Boom Museum

  • https://www.corrietenboom.com/en/the-museum
  • Address:  Barteljorisstraat 19, 2011 RA Haarlem, Holland
  • Hours:  April 1 through October 31, Tuesday through Saturday.  English tours at 1000, 1130, 1330 and 1500.  Tours in Dutch at 1030, 1200, 1400 and 1530.
  • Hours:  November 1 through March 30, Tuesday through Saturday.  English tours at 1100, 1230, 1430.  Tours in Dutch at 1130, 1300 and 1500.
  • Admission:  free, donations accepted at the end of the tour.
  • How To Get There:  From Amsterdam, take the train (15 minutes) from Amsterdam Centraal Station to Haarlem Central Station.  From From Haarlem Central Station, it is a 10-15 minute walk.  Leave the station by the door marked with the word “Centrum”.  Turn right out of the station.  Walk straight to Kruisweg Street.  Turn left and head to the Grote Markt.  Continue on this street until you reach the museum’s address.  Wait in the alley at the entrance door until the tour guide allows the group to enter.  The museum asks that no one wait in the adjacent Ten Boom Jewelry store.

 

 

Passing the Time

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Going for a visit to the Anne Frank museum while in Amsterdam?  Be prepared for a looooonnnnnggggg wait.

Since the admission line will head down the street and onto the square, Westermarkt, here’s a way to pass the time.  If there are a few people in your party, have one person hold your place in the line and the rest of you can duck into the church next door.

Westerkerk, a Reformed church within the Dutch Protestant church was built between 1620 and 1630 according to designs by Hendrick de Keyser and was one of the first purposely built and largest Protestant churches in the Netherlands.

Though very unlike the ornate and beautiful catholic churches we see throughout the world, Westerkerk has a grand, yet simplistic beauty.  Walking through the entire structure, take in the large wooden pulpit, carved woodwork, massive chandeliers and the piece that always seems to steal the show in Protestant churches, the organ.

As music was considered profane during the early years of the church, the organ was not part of the interior when the church was consecrated.  Located in the rear of the church, the organ’s construction was begun in 1681 by organ builder Roelof Barentszn Duyschot and finished by his son, Johannes.  In 1727, the organ was enlarged with a third keyboard and many alterations were done over the years.  If you are visiting during the months from April to October, a free weekly lunchtime concert is held on Fridays at one o’clock and a free concert is held almost every day in August where a collection is taken for the costs of the maintenance of the concerts and the organ.

Another smaller, choir organ is also located in the front of the church.  This organ, introduced for cantata services was introduced in 1963 by D.A. Flentrop.

One of the most notable items in the church is the memorial shield on the left nave wall, which is a symbolic mark of the grave of the famous Dutch painter, Rembrandt.   Living nearby at Rozengracht 184 in extreme poverty, he was buried in an unmarked church grave with several other people in the church.  The exact location  of his grave remains unknown.

Moving to the outside, the Westerkerk Tower, built in 1638, can be seen from most of the Old City center.  Standing 85 meters tall, it is the highest church tower in Amsterdam and can be climbed during the summer months.  Lucky enough to have a beautiful, sunny day, I crossed the Prinsengracht Canal, where the steeple and bright blue colored crown can be best viewed.  Since the tower has remained municipal property, you may notice a large national flag hanging from the top of the tower on all important days for the city.

Other things that you can check out in the immediate area are the Anne Frank statue located on the Westermarkt and the entrance to the Prinsenhuis, which once served as the entrance to the Westerkerk.  The Lord Mayor’s gate is still visible on the Westermarkt side of the church and was once used as a shortcut for the mayors of the city to reach their private stall inside the church (directly opposite the pulpit).  The Homomonument is also a popular tourist attraction, commemorating all gay men and lesbians who have been subjected to persecution because of their homosexuality and is located behind the church, at the corner of the Westermarkt and Keizergracht.

Your wait for Anne Frank may be long, but there are a multitude of things you can see to pass the time.  Take advantage of all of them!

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Westerkerk Church

  • http://www.westerkerk.nl/
  • Address:  Prinsengracht 281, 1016 GW Amsterdam, Netherlands
  • Hours:  1100-1500 every day except Sunday.  In October, hours are extended until 1530 and on Saturday, 1000-1730.
  • Admission:  free
  • Guided climbs of the tower are held from June through September,1000 until 1930, every 30 minutes.  Reservations advised.  Tower admission, €7 and children under 6 are not admitted.
  • Every Tuesday from 1200-1300, a carillon concert on 42 bells is played from the Westerkerk Tower.

 

 

Tucked Away…

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In the heart of the old part of Amsterdam there is a secret courtyard.

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Protected from the noise of the nearby streets and canals, overrun by car, tram, bike, boat and tourist traffic, lies Begijnhof…a tranquil oasis.

Founded in the 14th century, Begijnhof was a home for the Beguines, members of a lay Catholic sisterhood.  The members of the order, took a vow of chastity, attended mass everyday and promised obedience to the parish priest.  Unlike nuns,  however, the members did not take a vow of poverty, were free to come and go and were even allowed to leave and marry.

Today, their traditional wooden homes still stand in the courtyard and house about 105 single women.

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Though Begijnhof has gained notoriety as one of Amsterdam’s top attractions, it is still relatively unknown.  A few years ago, while riding down Spui,  a friend had me park my bike and took me through the small unassuming entrance in the square.

So mesmerizing was it with its English Reformed Church and original medieval tower, garden areas and tall free-standing Dutch houses, it was hard to believe we were still in the center of Amsterdam.

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Being quite late in the afternoon, we walked through the courtyard, admiring the beauty and continued on our way.

Last week, a beautiful, sunny winter day beckoned.  Hopping on my borrowed bicycle, I headed towards the old town and soon found myself on Spui. Remembering my previous visit, I decided to try and find Begijnhof once again.

Surprised that my memory had not failed me, I was soon walking through the Spui entrance.

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First inspecting the wall plaques depicting biblical themes,  I then moved on to the statues that decorate the garden area.

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Entering the English Reformed Church, one of the oldest structures in Amsterdam, I encountered a beautiful, old wooden interior.  Above my head, I admired the blue beams and the lovely, iron chandeliers and toward the front of the church, the beautiful stained glass windows caught my attention.  These colorful fenestrations depict and memorialize the Pilgrim Fathers who left to form a separate congregation in Leiden and then sailed on to Delfshaven, Plymouth and finally the New World on the Mayflower in 1620.

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In the front of the church, on the left, there is handsome organ, as well as a monumental one at the rear of the church.  Since the late 1970’s this organ has been used throughout the year for the performance of chamber music of all periods and styles and has also given many artist the opportunity to launch their careers, through the Academy of Begijnhof.  While in the forward of the church, particular attention should be paid to the protected bible and the beautifully carved pulpit.

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After leaving the church, I walked across the small courtyard into the Begjinhof chapel, dedicated to the Saint John and Saint Ursula.  A Roman Catholic chapel run by the congregation of the Blessed Sacrament, it now resides across from its original location on the site of the English Reformed Church and is the starting point of the beginning of the commemoration of the Miracle of Amsterdam process each year.

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The interior of this chapel has a Catholic appearance, with side chapels, splendid artwork, a central crucifix and a main altar.  The atmosphere is hushed and many devout can be seen in a prayerful pose or lighting candles at the rear of the structure.  A small gift shop is located at the right, in the rear of the church.

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After exiting the chapel, I noticed flowers resting in the gutter.  Curious as to why they were there, I found that the most famous beguine in Begijnhof’s history is sister Cornelia Arens, who died on October 14, 1654.  Not wishing to be laid to rest in the chapel, which she considered “desecrated” by the Presbyterians, she chose instead to be buried in the gutter of the court.  Contrary to her wish, she was buried in the chapel, however, legend states that her soul roamed the premises until she was finally buried in the location of her choice.

I next stopped by the snow covered green which is bordered by the majority of the homes of the residents of Begijnhof.  Admiring the ancient structures, including the Houten Huys, the oldest house in Amsterdam (#34), I wondered what it would be like to live here with so many curious visitors walking through everyday.

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So many sightseers walk through the premises every day, in fact, that signs are posted informing of the need for quiet, no photography or filming and respect of the occupants privacy.  No organized tour groups, bicycles or pets are allowed.  Most of the residents, however, look the other way for photography by private individuals.

Wrapping up my brief visit, I left, feeling peaceful and happy that I had returned for a more thorough inspection of Begijnhof.  If you seek a different side of Amsterdam, definitely seek out Begijnhof.

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Begijnhof

  • http://www.nicolaas-parochie.nl/index.php?menu=3&page=94
  • Address:  Begijnhof 30 – Amsterdam
  • Hours: Courtyard open 0900-1700, daily.  Chapel, Monday, 1300-1830, Tuesday-Friday, 0900-1830, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-1800.  Liturgy in English Reformed Church, Sundays, 1030.
  • Admission: free

 

 

Begijnhof