Tag: history

Basilica of the National Vow

© 2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

We spotted it from high above the city at the top of the Teleferico…and from Panecillo Hill. Heck, we could even see it from our hotel room!

There is one stunning structure that dominates Quito’s Old Town skyline.

The Basilica of the National Vow.

In 1883, the idea to build a church that demonstrated Ecuador’s devotion to the Roman Catholic church and the Sacred Heart was recognized by Father Julio Matovelle. Though funds were set aside by the Ecuadorian Congress the following year, hoping to put Ecuador on the map with such a prestigious building, it was not enough.

Seeking to gain the assistance of the whole nation, donations were accepted in the form of stone blocks with the vow that upon the church’s completion, the names of the donors would be carved into them. To ensure the remaining funds were in place, a tax on salt was then instituted and collected.

After over a hundred years of construction and despite a blessing by Pope John Paul II in 1985 and its inauguration in 1988, the basilica is not considered technically complete. In fact, local legend says that when the Basilica is finally completed, it will be the end of the world.

Located in the Santa Prisca neighborhood of Quito’s historic Old Town, this basilica which is often compared to Paris’ Notre Dame. It is the largest in the Americas and in Quito, which made navigating the streets seeking its destination quite easy as it towers above everything nearby, perched upon a hill.

Indeed, as I gazed upon this neo-Gothic architectural marvel, it did remind me of Notre Dame, however, as I approached, gazing upward, there were no gargoyles. The French architect, Emilio Tarlier, instead, used turtles, iguanas and other animals native to the Galapagos Islands and the Amazon, the pride and joy of the Ecuadorian culture. He also altered the style of the church to blend in with the Spanish style of the city’s Old Town, which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage since 1978.

After paying our admission, we wandered through the main floor of the basilica, admiring the colorful stained glass windows, bronze and wooden doors, artfully tiled floors, religious artwork and statues, vaulted ceilings and wooden confessionals. There were many side chapels and altars as well as the tombs of Gabriel Garcia Moreno, the former president of Ecuador and former Archbishop, Jose Ignazio Checa Barba.

As we stared appreciatively at the giant rose window at the far end of the basilica, we noticed people congregated in the gallery beneath the window. Searching for a stairway leading to this area, we found ourselves outside in a large, stone courtyard. Asking around, we finally determined that we needed to visit the ticket window in the courtyard to pay for access to the upper level, including the towers.

Finally, making our way up the stairs, we first stood upon the gallery which offered a magnificent view of the church below and a close-up view of the stained glass windows, including the stunning rose window. Stepping out a few feet within an opening we were also able to see parts of the the exterior of the basilica, as well as the flying buttresses and close-ups of some of the stone animals that decorate the exterior. Continuing our ascent, we made our way past the cafe and entered the clock tower. A fascinating space, we were able to inspect the inner workings of the massive clocks and old pictures of the construction of the basilica that decorated the tops of the walls. Here, we also had spectacular views of the city as well as the basilica’s other tower.

On the other tower, we could see movement and discovered that there were visitors making their way up and throughout the structure. We had not seen a walkway or any other point of access that would lead to this tower. Stepping into the gift shop, we discovered that on the other side of this shop, there was an entrance to the Condor Tower. It was a rather scary, narrow plank walkway leading across the basilica above the vaulted ceiling. A little apprehensive, we cautiously made our way to the other side and up the narrow ladder to the outer platform. Walking around the tower, we found the narrow stairs leading up to the top of the tower. Waiting our turn, as their was only room for one person moving up or down, I gathered my courage and made the steep climb. Not normally scared of heights, I could appreciate the spectacular view of the church’s roof and clock towers, but as I stood there, I thought about the instability of the area. What if an earthquake suddenly shook Quito? We took a quick couple of photos together, but I honestly couldn’t make the climb back down and over the walkway back to the main structure fast enough!

The Basilica del Voto Nacional is a breathtaking landmark for the churchgoers that call it home and for the thousands of tourists that visit to regard its beauty each year. Representing the breathtaking architecture found throughout the country it is both alluring and a welcoming respite for those seeking to pray and pay respects. It is important to allow at least two hours to fully appreciate all aspects of the church, especially the climbs into the towers. Though a bit daunting to some, making the ascent to see the views of the city landscape and El Panecillo between the spires is one you will never forget.

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Basilica del Voto Nacional Quito

  • Address: Carchi 122 y Venezuela., Quito, Pichincha 170150
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Church admission, $2.00 US, Tower admission, $2.00

Castle of the Holy Angel

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

On countless occasions, I have walked by the Castel Sant’Angelo…most times heading over the Ponte Sant’Angelo bridge to the Piazza Navona, the location of two of my favorite restaurants and my absolute fave gelato shop.

Having always admired it for its spherical silhouette and commanding position along the river, I am not sure why I had never ventured inside.

With the summer crowds beginning to thin, my mind filled with the opportunities this offered. Uncrowded streets, not many long lines. I wanted to experience something different, yet still get my daily dose of culture and that could mean any number of locations to visit.

Heading out with a friend, we had decided to have dinner at The Old Bear, near the Piazza Navona, after whatever adventure we decided upon.

Hmmm…just across the river was the Castle Sant’Angelo. I was in the mood for pumpkin lasagna and yes, a castle!

Intended for use as a mausoleum by Emperor Hadrian and his family, the construction of the Castle Sant’Angelo was begun in the year 135. Only requiring four years to complete, the building was then given over to the military, eventually being integrated into the Aurelian Walls, which enclosed the city of Rome including all seven of its hills, the Campus Martius and Trastevere.

As the plague ravaged the city, Pope Gregory I experienced a vision of Saint Michael the Archangel on the top of the castle announcing the end of the epidemic. As we stood on the Ponte Sant’Angelo, itself lined with amazing angelic statues, we gazed upon the fortress and at the statue of Saint Michael comparatively placed on the apex.

After paying our entrance fee, we made our way through the five floors which are reached by a spiral ramp that first reaches the chamber of ashes and eventually cells where many historical figures were imprisoned.

There are many medieval features of the castle from its time served as a fortress. The spiraling ramp provided rapid return to safety as well as a way for horseback riders to transit the space, a small wooden bridge that sits across the imperial tomb and a drawbridge. During the years of rebellion, four bastions were added to improve the fortification of the castle. These were the bastions of San Marco, San Luca, San Giovanni and San Matteo and as we made our way through these additions, we were able to witness the many wooden catapults, rusty cannons and marble cannon balls that were useful during the attacks the city continuously received. In addition, the Bastion of San Giovanni was home to a sixteenth century gunsmith workshop in the tower and in a reconstruction of the space, we were able to take note of the items used to construct the devices.

The castle was a maze of stairs, enclosed spaces and walkways most extremely well preserved due to its continual modifications over the centuries. Finding ourselves in the Courtyard of Honour which contains the papal apartments, used as a place of refuge by the pope when they were forced to flee the Vatican, we spied the stairs which led us to the second highest point on the castle…the one where we could stand beneath the great statue of Michael the Archangel. It is here, as well, that you can stand and admire the city, including the commanding St. Peter’s Basilica, the river below and all points past.

Courtyard of Honor
Courtyard of Honor
Courtyard of Honor

The loggias were my favorite parts of the castle. The smaller of the two was built at the beginning of the sixteenth century by Pope Julius II of Rovere (you can spot his name and coat of arms on the lintel), it was used as a place for the pope to bless the crowds of pilgrims on their way towards St. Peter’s Basilica. The Grand Loggia, completed in 1543, was completed by Pope Paul III (notable for commissioning the Last Judgement in the Sistine Chapel), and conceived as an entrance to his private apartments. It is decorated with episodes of Hadrian’s life and images of the monuments that he had built, including the mausoleum itself.

Stopping at the small cafe for a short time to escape the incessant drizzle that had started, we grabbed a beverage and enjoyed the warmth and smells of the pastries served here.

Spying a break in the weather, we decided to continue on, admiring the architectural details of the castle. Eventually, we came to something totally unexpected. Within the beautifully decorated rooms, named after Clement VII Medici, we happened upon an Italian fashion exhibit showcasing haute couture and jewelry by Italian designers, including Bulgari and Valentino. Beautifully dressed mannequins and display cases filled the apartments, including the Apollo Room, which if you were not overwhelmed by the fashion displayed here, you certainly were by the magnificent marble fireplace, frescoes, door friezes and tiled floors.

Sadly, the one thing that I was so anxious to visit within the castle was the Passetto di Borgo; the passageway built in 1277 that enabled a periously-threatened pope to make a safe getaway. In 1494, Pope Alexander VI transited this passage as Charles VIII invaded the city and Clement VII escaped using the passage during the Sack of Rome in 1527, when troops of the Holy Roman Emperor massacred almost the entire Swiss Guard on the steps of St. Peter’s Basilica. In 2000, in honor of the Pope’s Jubilee year, the Passetto di Borgo was renovated and temporarily re-opened. It can be visited during specific times with the accompaniment of a guide.

Heading out of the castle, we found the rain had ceased and the darkening sky was beginning to clear. Examining the castle from the ground perspective, we walked across the bridge stopping with the masses to get one last look.

Never before having realized that Michael the Archangel was the statue that sat upon the top of the castle, I glanced at the angel once again and had a feeling of peace.

Everyone always wants a guardian angel looking out over them!

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Castle Sant’Angelo

  • http://castelsantangelo.beniculturali.it/
  • Address: Lungotevere Castello, 50, 00193 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours: Daily, 0900-1930. Closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.
  • Admission: €15.00, € 2.00 reduced. The entrance ticket also allows entry to the National Museum of the Palazzo di Venezia in the following eight days after purchase. From October to March, free entry on the first Sunday of each month. Guided tours included in the admission ticket. November to March, English, 1000 and 1500, Italian, 1130 and 1630. April to October, English 1000 and 1630, Italian, 1130 and 1800.
  • Getting There: Metro, Ottaviano. Buses numbers 23, 34, 49, 64, 87, 280, 492, 926 and 990.

Stumbling Upon a Statue

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

What I love most about Rome is that there is always something different to discover around each corner…from statues to memorials, to major landmarks and archaeological sites…some more interesting than others, but all deserving some insight into their historical aspects.

While on a walk, I came across a statue on the backside of the Ministry of Economics and Finance. Curious about its origins, I decided to investigate.

This monument, dedicated to Quintino Sella, an Italian politician, economist and mountaineer, was erected in 1893, and was chosen after thirty-one sketches were presented for consideration to the city. Inaugurated on April 9, 1893, in the square in front of the Ministry of Finance, the monument was eventually moved on the side of Via Cernaia.

Born in the Province of Biella, Quintino Sella studied engineering in Turin and then mineralogy in Paris, witnessing the revolution of 1848. Returning to Turin in 1852, he worked as a professor of geometry, mathematics and then, eventually, mineralogy.

In 1860, he moved into politics, serving as a deputy for the city of Cossato, secretary-general of public instruction and then received the portfolio of finance from Rattazzi and later, La Marmora. His great political influence led to his heading of a Moderate Conservative cabinet at which he remained until retiring from public life.

Despite his busy educational and political aspirations, Sella spent a great deal of time pursuing his mountaineering interests. He was involved in the competition for the first ascent of the Matterhorn and founded the Club Alpino Italiano, with a number of its mountain huts named in his honor.

Passing away in 1884, Quintino Sella was buried at the graveyard near the Santuary of Oropa, where a pyramid was erected in his honor.

The monument that I observed at the Ministry of Finance, was designed by Ettore Ferrari and consists of a cross-shaped stepped base from which rises a pedestal on which the bronze statue of the statesman appears to be walking with his right hand on his chest and holding papers in his left. A female figure with a naked breast wrapped in a wide cloak, is seated beneath Sella’s representation. On the female’s left side is a bronze figure of a naked boy, symbolizing the Genius of Finance, holding a book with the word Finanze on it.

The statue was an interesting find and after discovering its history, I went in search of the plaque also dedicated to Quintino Sella on Via Nazionale.

It wasn’t the Coliseum or the Vatican…but I learned a bit about an important Italian, just by stumbling across a statue dedicated to him.

Lots more of that in Rome!!!

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Monumento a Quintino Sella

The Papal Basilica of St. Peter’s

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Ever see something many times, yet never tire of it?

This is how I feel about St. Peter’s Basilica.

It’s no secret that I love churches, but this one surpasses all.

Situated on Vatican Hill, St. Peter’s Basilica can be seen from many parts of Rome, beckoning visitors, that total in the millions every year, from all over the world. One of only four Major basilicas in the world (with the other three also in Rome…St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, Santa Maria Maggiore and St. John the Lateran), this basilica achieved its fame as it derives its name from the fact that it was built on the site where St. Peter was buried in 64 AD.

This UNESCO world heritage site has a capacity of over 60,000 people and covers an area of over 22,300 square meters, making it one of the world’s largest churches. Originally the site of the Circus of Nero and a cemetery, the original basilica was erected between the years of 319 and 349 AD under the orders of Emperor Constantine, the first Christian emperor of Rome. Falling into disrepair after standing for over 1,000 years, Pope Julius II (who also commissioned the Sistine Ceiling) made the decision to demolish and rebuild the structure.

The greatest architects of the Roman Renaissance and Baroque were consulted and utilized for this new basilica, including Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo, Donato, Giacomo della Porta and Maderno with Bramante’s original design being chosen in 1506. After 120 years, the basilica was completed and consecrated by Pope Urban VIII.

St. Peter’s Square, itself, is an architectural highlight, designed by Bernini in the seventeenth century, and is overlooked by the Loggia della Benedizione, the central balcony from where the pope delivers his Urbi et Orbi blessing at Christmas and Easter. It is here, on the right, where you join the queue to enter St. Peter’s basilica. The line moves quite quickly, however, the time seemed to drag as we stood in the heat of the August afternoon, making our way to the security screening area.

Finally, we entered the massive church and as always, I found myself unsure of where to turn first. There is so much to see on the main level of St. Peter’s including the Michelangelo’s Pieta, located to the right of the entrance, between the Holy Door and the altar of Saint Sebastian.. Carved from a single slab of marble, it was created by Michelangelo when he was only twenty-two years of age and is one of his first works of art. It is the only piece he ever created that was signed.

Take a look around on the floor nearby, and see if you can spot the red disk that marks that spot where Charlemagne and later Holy Roman Emperors were crowned by the pope.

Walking along the right and left naves, there were many side altars to admire, each more beautiful than the next, but it was what was at the high altar that commanded our attention. Here, Bernini’s famous baldachin is supported by four spiral columns and made with bronze from taken from the Pantheon. The baldechin stands over the altar which sits above the site of St. Peter’s grave. So holy is this site that the pope is the only priest allowed to serve at the altar.

Above us, the dome, also created by Michelangelo, was another of the basilica’s highlights. Soaring to a height of almost four hundred feet, this dome was based on Brunelleschi’s design for the Duomo in Florence. The cupola is supported by four stone piers names after the saints whose statues adorn the Bernini designed niches…Longinus, Helena, Veronica and Andrew. Having been up in the cupola before, I was anxious to see the remaining features before heading upwards.

Another of the basilica’s treasures is the 13th century bronze statue of St. Peter. Designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, what is immediately noticed is that statue’s right foot is extremely shiny…due to the centuries of caresses by visitors hoping to receive blessings by rubbing the extremity.

Heading into the Museo Storico Artistico, located in the left nave, we perused the multitude of sacred relics, including a jewel-studded cross gifted to the church by emperor Justinian II, a 6th century Crux Vaticana and a tabernacle by Donatello.

Finding our way to the Vatican Grottoes beneath the basilica, it is here that visitors can pay their respects to the tombs and sarcophagi of 91 popes that have served the Catholic church during its long history. You can also see the several large columns from the original 4th century basilica here, but my favorite part of being in this space is the tomb of the most beloved St. John Paul II, the second longest-serving pope in modern history who is credited in ending Communist rule. It is also interesting to note that in addition to the entombed popes, there are three women laid to rest here; Queen Christina of Sweden, Agnesina Colonna Caetani and Queen Charlotte of Cyprus.

Beneath this area, excavations have uncovered what is believed to be the tomb of St. Peter. This area, however, is accessible only to those escorted by a guide, booked well in advance.

Making our way back upstairs, we decided that it was time to head upstairs, to the dome and the cupola. The dome’s ticket entrance is located on the right of the basilica’s main portico and a major decision is to be made here when purchasing a ticket.

Walk up the 551 steps to the top (kudos to those who do) or take the lift halfway and climb the remaining 320 steps. Of course, we had had a long day, traveling from Naples and exploring the Vatican, so you probably guess what our decision was.

After exiting the lift, we walked around the first level, taking in the beautiful mosaics that line the walls making up the dome’s design and the birds’ eye view of the basilica below.

Walking out onto the roof of the basilica, we walked out to check out the statues of Jesus and the Apostles that can be seen on the roof of the basilica from the square. There is also a bathroom, a refreshment stand and a gift shop that you can mail your Vatican City postmarked postcards from.

Continuing onward and upward, it was here that the journey becomes a little more challenging. This second part requires the climbing of the remaining 320 steps to the top. There is a narrow, single-file, spiral staircase that requires you to lean in to accommodate the slanting of the roof and at the end, a corkscrew staircase. Though there are some windows along the way, this part definitely made me feel extremely claustrophobic and I could not wait to reach the top.

Once I did, however, the views of the city and St. Peter’s Square below were breathtaking!

Who could ever tire of this?

That’s why I keep coming back!

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St. Peter’s Basilica

  • http://www.vatican.va/various/basiliche/san_pietro/index_it.htm
  • Address: Piazza San Pietro, 00120 Città del Vaticano, Vatican City
  • Hours: October 1 until March 31, 0700-1830, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1900. Dome Access, October 1 until March 31, 0730-1700, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1800.
  • Admission: Basilica, free. Dome Access, including lift to terrace level and continue on foot (320 steps), € 10.00. Ascent on foot (551 steps), € 8.00. Reductions for schools are possible by presenting an attestation of the Institute with the list of participants, € 5.00
  • Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from St. Peter’s Basilica.

Over My Head

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are many unique highlights that visitors aspire to visit on a trip to the Rome.

There is one, however, that tops the list.

The Sistine Chapel.

Located in Vatican City, the smallest country in the world, the Vatican Museums receive more than six million visitors a year who come to see the seventeen museums that make up the complex. The Sistine Chapel, is the pièce de résistance.

Having been to the Vatican museums many years ago on a couple of occasions, I knew that in order to obtain entrance to the Sistine Chapel, there are many chambers and rooms to pass through and countless masterpieces to study before reaching the famed chapel.

Being the height of the summer season, the line snaked around the exterior of the building and the interior was overloaded, Walking slowly, shoulder to shoulder, we quickly realized that reaching the Sistine Chapel was going to take an extensive amount of time and much jockeying for position.

Passing through the various collections, the Gregorian Profane Museum, Ethnological Missionary Museum, Pinacoteca, Pio-Clementino Museum, Rafaello Rooms and the Chiaramonti Museum, we struggled with the heat and the incessant jostling from other people trying to see what each collection had to offer.

The one thing I realized was that I was enduring this to show my son the glorious treasure that awaited us deep in the museum. A glorious ceiling painted by Michaelangelo…and yet, as I looked here, above me, there were countless paintings over my head. Yes, many artworks on the walls, but each room’s ceilings were painted exquisitely, setting the stage for what was to come.

We admired what we could in each of the galleries, but I kept my head aimed high and marveled at what was above.

Finally, we spotted the signs directing us to the Sistine Chapel!

As we entered the chapel, I immediately snapped a picture of the ceiling and was reprimanded by one of the guards. Making our way into the throng of people passing along the outer wall, I realized that if we kept walking, we were going to leave the chapel without having had the time to inspect what had taken so long to reach. Pushing out of the moving queue, we made our way to the center of the room where there were many people standing.

Protected from guarded eyes by the people around me, I was able to capture a few photographs of the jewel of the Vatican before just taking a few moments to relish the fact that we were indeed in one of the most magnificent holy places and working chapels in the world.

The Sistine Chapel was erected between the years of 1473 and 1481 by architect Giovanni dei Dolci under the orders of Pope Sixtus IV. Although its exterior is nothing spectacular, the interior is what over 6 million visitors come to see annually. Its frescoes on the side walls were painted by Florentine Renaissance masters (1481-1483) and depict the lives of Christ and Moses and various popes. The lowest parts of the side walls are covered for ceremonial occasions, depicting events from the Gospels and the Acts of the Apostles and were designed by Raphael (1515-1519).

The most important part of the chapel are the reason all visitors leave with a crook in their necks…the frescoes by Michelangelo on the ceiling and on the west wall behind the altar. The entire collection of frescoes on the ceiling are collectively known as the Sistine Ceiling and were commissioned by Pope Julius II in 1508 depicting incidents and personages from the Old Testament. Many years later (1534-1541), Michaelangelo was commissioned again, by Pope Paul III, to paint the Last Judgment fresco on the west wall.

It is so spectacular, it is almost too much to take in and before long, we realized that we had outstayed our welcome. Reluctantly finding our way to the exit, we entered the Borgia apartments and continued our journey through the remaining parts of the museum.

To see everything that the Vatican Museums has to offer, it would take days. The Vatican Museums encompass the world’s largest private art collection (with its origins dating back to 1503) and most of what is in their possession, not on display. If you are interested in seeing as much as you can of the Vatican Museums, I would recommend starting your day early and having a plan, including a map with the items you are most interested in seeking out. Since on this day, we had hoped to see what we could of the museums, with the Sistine Chapel being our main focus, and St. Peter’s Basilica, we limited ourselves to what little we could achieve.

Me? Since I had been there before on a couple of occasions, I was content that I had seen something new. Never before had I realized what was over my head when I was so mesmerized by all that was around me. I understand that many people have that one opportunity to visit Rome and see what they can. Thankfully, I have been blessed to have had more than one chance.

If you ever find yourself in Rome for a second (or third) time, take the time to go back to the Vatican again and again. You never know what else you might find!

What you can expect to see in each of the museums:

  • Pio-Clementino Museum: Created by popes Clement XIV and Pius VI, this museum holds the most important Greek works in the Vatican.
  • Apartment of Pius V: The work of Pope Pius V, this museum contains Flemish tapestries from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, a collection of medieval ceramics and another of medieval miniature mosaics.
  • Gallery of the Chandeliers: Roman replicas of Greek originals and enormous chandeliers from the second century A.D. decorate this elegant gallery.
  • Ethnological Missionary Museum: This museum contains works of art from all the papal missions of the world, among which there are objects originating from Tibet, Indonesia, India, the Far East, Africa and America.
  • Gallery of Maps: Carried out between the years 1580 and 1585, the beautiful maps painted in fresco on the walls of this gallery represent the Italian regions and the possessions of the Church.
  • Historical Museum – Carriage Pavilion: In this section you will find coaches, saddles, cars, and Vatican City’s first locomotive.
  • Gallery of Tapestries: Exhibition of Flemish tapestries created between 1523 and 1534.
  • Pio-Christian Museum: The collection of Christian antiquities is composed of statues, sarcophagi and archaeological ruins from the sixth century.
  • Pinacoteca: The eighteen rooms in the Pinacoteca building contain pictorial works dating from the Middle Ages until 1800.
  • Sobieski Room and the Room of the Immaculate: In both rooms you will find paintings originating in the Italian “Ottocento”.
  • Egyptian Museum: Among other pieces acquired by the popes you can find some impressive Egyptian sculptures, besides the prized sarcophagi from the third century B.C. There are also some black basalt statues originating from the Villa Adriana, which are replicas of Egyptian models.
  • Etruscan museum: This part of the museum contains elements of ceramic, bronze and gold belonging to the Etruscan civilization.
  • Chiaramonti Museum: Created thanks to Pius VII Chiaramonti, this gallery holds thousands of sculptures including portraits of emperors, images of the gods and some funeral monuments.
  • Gregorian Profane Museum: Greek and Roman sculptures are exhibited here from the first to third centuries A.D.
  • Borgia Apartment: The apartments that belonged to the Pope Alexander VI Borgia today serve as exhibition rooms for the Collection of Modern Religious Art.
  • Raphael Rooms: Rafael and his assistants decorated the apartments of the Pope Julius II.
  • Sala Della Biga: Holding court in this space is a monumental marble figure of a chariot drawn by two horses carried out in the first century A.D.

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Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel

  • Vatican Official Website http://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/en.html
  • Sistine Chapel
  • http://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/it/collezioni/musei/cappella-sistina/storia-cappella-sistina.html
  • Address: 00120 Vatican City
  • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1800 (final entry, 1600). Every last Sunday of the month, 0900-1400 (final entry, 1230). Closed on Sundays (except the last Sunday of each month), 1 January, 11 February 19 March, 22 April, 1 May, 29 June, 14 and 15 August, 1 November, 25 and 26 December
  • Admission: No guide. Adults, 17.00€, Reduced 8.00€, Online booking fee, 4.00€. For audioguide, add additional 7.00€. Prices vary for guided tours, please consult Vatican Official website.
  • Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from Vatican City.

Important to note: Proper dress is required and visitors can be denied access even with a ticket. The following clothing items are not allowed in the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Gardens…mini skirts, shorts above the knee, sleeveless tops, lowcut clothing, hats. The Vatican’s dress code applies to both men and women.

Photos are not allowed in the Sistine Chapel.

Happy Valentine

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Most people visit the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin only to see the Mouth of Truth.

Even when approaching the church, visitors often forget to admire the medieval facade with its seven open arches, seven windows and slender Romanesque belltower (added in the 12th century), as they ponder the long line snaking out from the portico.

Should we wait? Or shouldn’t we?

Whether one decides to take their place in the interminable line to place their hand between the jaws of the stone face’s mouth or not, a short visit to the church should be in order.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin was founded during the sixth century on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to Hercules Invictus which was last rebuilt in the 2nd century BC.

With its name being derived from the Greek word, kosmidioin, meaning ornamented, it would be expected that the interior would be one decorated beautifully. Though that was once the case, the minor basilica’s only surviving enhancements are some floor mosaics, a bishop’s chair, a ceremonial canopy and the medieval choir enclosure.

The church’s main draw, however, is the glass shrine with the skull of St. Valentine, patron saint of love, located on the left side of the church. Once located in the lower level crypt, the remains of the martyr, who now lends his name to the holiday we celebrate on February 14 (the day of his death) can be admired on its own altar. The skull wears a wreath of flowers and has a stenciled inscription across the skull.

Though there are ten St. Valentine’s listed in the Roman Catholic register of saints, the one whose skull resides in Santa Maria in Cosmedin church is believed to be a holy priest who assisted St. Marius in giving aid to the martyrs persecuted under Claudius II. After being summoned by the Emperor to Rome, demanded to renounce his faith and refusing, he was beaten and beheaded.

The church is quite small but make sure not to miss the ancient Crypt of Adrian I, located under the presbytery. Created between the years of 772 and 795, it is a small space divided into three naves by six columns and reminiscent of a small basilica. There is a small altar at the far end and it is believed that the crypt once housed other relics (Cirilla, Adauctus, Valentino, Adriano, Amelia, Antonino, Clemenza, Generous, Ottavio, Patrick, Olympia and St. John Baptist de Rossi). According to legend, an ancient tunnel once connected the crypt to the catacombs on the Appian Way.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin is located adjacent to Circus Maximus and just across the river from the Trastevere, the funky bohemian area of Rome filled with restaurants, shops and of course, more churches.

Make sure to include it in your day of sightseeing…then you can say you had a Happy Valentine’s Day!

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Santa Maria in Cosmedin

To Tell The Truth

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

How do you know if someone is lying?

Well, you can strap them to a lie detector and administer the test.

If you happen to be in Rome, however, you can take them to the Mouth of Truth.

Located under the portico at the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, the carved marble disk, also known as the La Bocca della Verita, displays the face of a man.

And he bites...if you are a liar!

Dating back to around the 1st century CE, the carving is of a humanoid face with hollow holes for eyes and a gaping mouth. Though it is not sure why it was created, it has been theorized that the medallion acted as a manhole cover, a fountain decoration or maybe even a ceremonial well cover. Possibly a pagan god, no one is entirely sure whose features the face was modeled on.

This face, however, is thought to elicit the truth from those who dare to place their hand in its mouth, as it is either the truth or a bite.

Be prepared for a long wait, the line always extends outside of the church onto the sidewalk. If you really don’t want to wait, however, you can always just take a quick picture through the bars. If you do wait, however, be prepared to tell the truth if a question is asked of you!

So, did I get a question?

My son asked me if I was having fun.

The answer?

YES!

I was getting to share all of my favorite sites in Rome with him!

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Mouth of Truth

  • Address: Piazza della Bocca della Verità, 18, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours: 0930-1750, daily
  • Admission: free

The Monastery on the Hill

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Spying a nearby church tower as we stood atop the Castel Sant’Elmo, we decided that this would be our next destination. Little did I realize at the time that it was a monastery…one of my favorite places to visit!

The Certosa e Museo di San Martino is located a short distance from the Castel Sant’Elmo and is truly a treasure of Naples. Built in 1325 and then rebuilt in the 17th century, this large monastery complex was more than we ever imagined.

As we entered the courtyard, we discovered the church that we spied from Castel Sant’Elmo. This baroque sanctuary is a masterpiece decorated with a stunning marble floor, various paintings by Jusepe de Ribera, sculptures by Guiseppe Sanmartino and frescoes by Battistello Caracciolo. At the presbytery, there is an intricate marble lattice, decorated with precious stones and altar made of the same materials. Be sure to take a look up at the ceilings which are richly decorated with frescoes.

As we continued our exploration, we came to the peaceful Grand Cloister (Chiostro Grande) which contains a monk’s graveyard in one corner. This graveyard was quite fascinating with it skull topped enclosure and provided us with some great photo ops.

The Quarto del Priore, which is the apartment used for the reception of important guests, contains some relevant masterpieces including a Madonna col Bambino e San Giovannino by Pietro Bernini.

Surprisingly, we discovered that the monastery houses the Museo Nazional di San Martino which offers a look a many collections. One of my passions is collecting nativity scenes from around the world. Here, the museum showcases their extensive collection, some extremely rare, dating back to the 1800’s.

In another part of the monastery, there are many precious objects, including paintings and bronze sculptures by Neapolitan artists of the 19th century. My favorite part of the exhibit, however, was The Sezione Navale, or Maritime Museum, where many model ships and ship’s instruments were on display. The most appealing was the full-sized Great Barge, used by King Charles of Bourbon in the 1700’s. Other areas offer displays showcasing sculpture and epigraphy and a library on the second floor dedicated to the Prints and Drawings Collections with over 8,000 pieces.

A short walk through the garden was also in order, which offered an overlook to the city. It was a bit overgrown and unkempt leading us to return to the cloistered areas to enjoy the outdoors.

Though this was not the original monastery I had hoped to visit, that being Monastero di Santa Chiara, Certosa e Museo di San Martino was close by and surpassed my expectations.

If anyone is visiting Naples and making the ascent to the Castel Sant’Elmo, save time for a visit to this amazing monastery next door!

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Certosa e Museo di San Martino

  • http://www.polomusealecampania.beniculturali.it/index.php/certosa-e-museo
  • Address: Largo S. Martino, 5, 80129 Napoli NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0830-1830, Monday to Saturday. 0830-1600, Sunday. Closed Wednesday.
  • Admission: Full, 6,00€, Reduced, 3,00€
  • Getting There: Metro, Vanvitelli and then bus V1 to Piazzale San Martino. Bus: C28, C31, or C36 to Piazza Vanvitelli. Funicular: Centrale to Piazza Fuga or Montesanto to Morghen

The City of the Seven Castles

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In ancient times, Naples was called the “city of the seven castles” as it was the only city in the world that boasted seven castles within its boundaries. These castles, Castel dell’Ovo, Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino), Castel Sant’Elmo, Castel Capuano, Castello del Carmine, Castello di Nisida and Forte di Vigliena, provided a powerful defense to the Gulf of Naples from attacks by sea.

Three of these castles are located along the coastline in the touristic areas of Naples, near the Piazza del Plebiscito, making it an easy task to visit them in a single day.

Since the Castel Nuovo was located near our hotel (and made for an awesome view from our hotel window!) so we opted to begin our exploration there.

Castel Nuovo’s construction was initiated in 1279 by Carlo I D’Angio during the beginning of Naples’ reign as capital of the region. The modern fortress today appears much as it did upon its inception and was originally called Maschio Angioino. The castel acted as the royal residence and became a center of culture giving hospitality to artists, doctors, scholars and authors. When Alfonso I, of the Aragonese, succeeded the Anjevins, he continued to use the castle as a royal residence but ordered renovations, including the Triumphal Arch, celebrating his victorious entry into the city of Naples.

Upon entering, it was quite impressive to pass through this Triumphal Arch and admire the detailed craftsmanship of both it and the Bronze Gates, ordered by Ferdinand I of Aragon. Entering into the vast courtyard, we admired the high interior walls and proceeded to follow the self-guided tour.

We made our way through the Hall of the Barons, originally the throne room and location where the barons conspired against Ferrante I d’Aragona in 1487, the Palatine Chapel, dedicated to the Assunzione della Vergine and then the Chapel of the “Anime Purganti”, or Purgatory Chapel, which dates back to the 16th century. This small chapel is richly decorated but protected by a glass wall, which limited our proximity to the priceless artwork.

Hall of the Barons
Palatine Chapel
Palatine Chapel
Palatine Chapel
Purgatory Chapel

Climbing the stone stairs, we found ourselves at the scenic balcony giving us a beautiful view of the marina and the nearby buildings. The upper floors house exhibitions and cultural events, part of the Municipal Museum of Naples, which also has displays on several floors, including sculptures, paintings and objects from the medieval period to the 19th century. The first floor’s exhibits included works from photographers Fabio Donato and Luciano Ferrara. Most intriguing, however, was the glass floor displaying human remains that were excavated and preserved.

Though we were not able to visit the basement (only possible with a guide), a story I overheard from a tour guide detailed a “crocodile pit”. It was found that occasionally prisoners would disappear and were believed to have been snatched by a crocodile who would grab their leg and drag them out to sea. Speculation was that Queen Giovanna brought the creature to Naples from Egypt on the occasion of her wedding with Giacomo of Bourbon.

Walking along the coastline, passing the Fontana del Gigante (Fountain of the Giants), we made our way to the second fortress, Castel della’Ovo which stands on the islet of Megaride, lending to its untouchable, yet fairy-tale perception. No wonder many brides and grooms decide to take their wedding photos here!

The Castel’s name, truly unique, is one of Neapolitan legends. The castle was named for the egg that Latin poet Virgil apparently hid in a cage in the dungeons of the castle. This egg was kept hidden because the “fortune of the Sea Castle depended on it”.

As we walked along the causeway towards the castle, we noted the marina and the restaurants around the eastern wall, part of the small fishing village, Borgo Marinaro, established in the 19th century.

The castle sits on the site of a previous structure, built by the Normans in the 12th century. After Charles I of Anjou built the new castle and moved his court there, it became the seat of the Royal Chamber and of the State Treasury. Castel dell’Ovo also served as a prison, housing Empress Constance of the Holy Roman Empire (1191, later Queen of Sicily), King Conradin before his trial and execution in 1268 and Queen Joanna I of Naples before here assassination in 1381.

Inside the castle, there are several buildings used for exhibitions and other special events. Aside from a few statues and cannons, the castle’s main features are those that are architectural, however, there are some beautiful views of the city and coast to be had from the upper level.

Moving on, we headed through the Piazza del Plebiscito to the Augusteo subway station. Knowing it would be a difficult task to make it up the immense hill to Castel Sant’Elmo, we boarded the subway/funicular towards Piazza Fuga and then walked the remaining distance.

Dating back to 1275, this castle, which sits high above the city, was originally a church dedicated to St. Erasmus and was transformed into a royal residence. An earthquake, in 1456, caused the collapse of the towers and some of the walls. After interventions by the Aragonese, the castle was transformed into a defensive fortress. Almost a century later, construction commenced which committed the castle to its current configuration, a star-shaped fortress.

The castle, which sits high on a hill above the city, was used as a troop’s garrison, a military prison until the 1950’s and it now houses the Museo del Novecento, dedicated to 20th century Neapolitan art.

This castle was extremely interesting as it fits the image of what you would expect a castle to be, with its drawbridge and dark, interior passages. It is when you reach the upper level, while walking along the ramparts that you discover what makes it so special…the outstanding views of the city and the bay islands.

After admiring the impressive clock tower, we ventured into the Museum for a quick look where we discovered some impressive and sometimes strange pieces. Exiting the rear doors of the museum, the church was directly across the walkway and we stepped in to have a quick look at its simple interior.

Looking out once again at the city from our bird’s eye view, it was now easy to comprehend what a vast city Naples is. Spread out before us, we realized that there was so much we had not had time to see and the afternoon was drawing to a close. Spying a church’s facade next door, we decided that if we were going to see more, it had better close by.

Heading down through the castle, we made our way to the exterior, stopping on the drawbridge, to once again, admire the coat of arms of Charles V with the double-headed eagle at the entrance portal. The clear, blue sky made for a beautiful view as we walked away, through the gates and we marveled at how much history was to be found in Naples.

Only having had the time to discover three of Naples seven castles, we realized that we would have to make time on another trip to see the other four.

Three out of seven wasn’t too bad…right?

 Especially because these three were pretty spectacular!

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Castel Nuovo

Castel dell’Ovo

Castel Sant’Elmo

Suddenly, Sorrento!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Because we were so excited to experience Positano, it seemed that it took a lifetime to get there.

Because our feet hurt and we were hot and tired, it seemed like the journey back went wayyyy to quick!

Suddenly…we were back where we started, Sorrento!

Anxious to see this city, we jumped off the bus, despite our aching and sweaty body parts, and headed towards the center of town.

Discovering the Piazza Sant’Antonino, we admired the statue of Sant’Antonino Abate surrounded by palm trees and fronting Sorrento’s Town Hall. The city’s patron saint died in 626 AD and was credited with saving the life of a child swallowed by a whale and protecting Sorrento against plague and invasion. Every year on the anniversary of his death, February 14, a silver statue of Sant’Antonino is carried through the city’s streets accompanied by countless festivities. Throughout the year, respects can be paid to this important saint in the basilica dedicated to him, also in the piazza, across from his statue.

Of course we had to visit this important basilica as should anyone visiting Sorrento…just make sure not to pass it by. The city’s oldest church is quite plain from the outside and could be mistaken for another of the area’s buildings.

Erected in the 11th century on the site of an antique oratory, the basilica is rich in history, art and important artifacts. Upon entering the lobby, there are two whale ribs posted as a memento of the miracle credited to Sant’Antonino. The church’s interior exhibits rich details including columns taken from the numerous Roman country homes in the area, an 11th century gate supported by Corinthian capitals and valuable paintings by Giovanni Bernardi Lama and Giacomo Del Po, both dating back to the 1600s.

The sacristy exhibits two rare treasures, the fragments of an antique terracotta floor and a beautiful Neapolitan Christmas nativity from the 17th century.

The most interesting items in the church, however, reside in the crypt. The tomb of Sant’Antonino is located here as well as an immense collection of votive offerings donated by seamen who have escaped death on the waters where they travel. Though we were not quite sure what they were at first, we found them to be quite fascinating!

Heading toward the coast, we walked past restaurants, shops and colorful homes with the bayside park of Villa Communale in mind, to take in the sweeping views and have a refreshing drink along the waterfront.

Before we arrived, however, we encountered a wedding party emerging from the Chiostro e Chiesa di San Francesco (The San Francesco Cloister). Taking a peek inside the cloister, as the group dispersed, we discovered a peaceful garden, popular for weddings, art exhibits and classical concerts. The church, which we were unable to visit, due to the wedding, was built in the 14th century and is one of the oldest monuments in Sorrento.

Back to our original destination, we found a well manicured park with statues, paths and fountains. It is here that you can take the Sorrento Lift to access Sorrento’s beaches.

Sorrento’s beaches. Let me explain.

As we stood along the overlook, we glanced down at a maze of wharves, umbrellas and changing huts. Here, three beach clubs, Leonelli’s, Marameo and Peter’s, extend from a strip of volcanic sand offering a place for sunseekers to swim and relax. We were fascinated by this colorful concept and again, after enduring the searing August heat all day, wished that we could journey down the cliff to one of these beach clubs. With more to see and a dinner to enjoy, we sadly had to pass.

Continuing on our quest to see all that Sorrento had to offer, we left for the Sorrento Cathedral, which was scheduled to reopen after their afternoon siesta. Along the way, we passed the Sedil Dominova, located behind the main square, where local noblemen would congregate and discuss civil affairs. It is the last surviving ancient noble seat in the Campania region of Southern Italy and today, houses a working men’s club where locals meet to play cards.

Finally arriving at the Sorrento Cathedral, near the main square, we gazed upward at its beautiful, three-story clock tower made up of a base dating back to the Roman Empire. Entering this 11th century Roman Catholic cathedral (rebuilt in the Romanesque style in the 15th century), we gazed around in wonder at the beauty that surrounded us. The church, dedicated to St. James and St. Philip, is filled with beautiful inlaid wood, marble side altars dedicated to various saints, paintings by local Neapolitan artists and an 18th century Neapolitan nativity scene.

In the apse, there is a masterfully inlaid, 19th century choir and under the pulpit, a significant altarpiece by Silvestro Buono, dating back to 1573, known as La Vergine tra San Giovanni Battista e san Giovanni Evangelista (The Virgin Between St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist), among other treasures. Make sure to not miss the secondary entrance with its classic rectangular portal dating back to 1478, the 10th century marble slab with a depiction of a lioness near the entrance and the baptismal font in the first chapel on the right, where Italian writer Torquato Tasso was baptized.

Most important, however, is the 17th century altar dominated by the large wooden crucifix dating from the 15th century. As I walked down the aisle, it was quite captivating, reminding parishioners of the origins of their religious beliefs.

Leaving the cathedral, we realized that we could squeeze in one more Sorrento attraction…the Bastion of Parsano, which had just reopened for the beginning of its summer evening hours. Even before the birth of Christ, Sorrento had defensive walls built to protect it and access to the city was allowed through five entrance gates. A series of towers were built to defend the gates and continued to protect Sorrento during the Middle Ages. The walls were later rebuilt for better protection and visitors to Sorrento can see the remains below the street level at Porta Parsano Nuova, where they are open for public visitation. As we walked around the bastion, we admired the stonework and marveled at how long this line of defense had stood here. It is truly amazing and one of Sorrento’s treasures.

It was finally time to seek out a place to fill our stomachs as we had a train to catch for our return to Naples.

After finally arriving back in Naples and settling down to get some sleep on my cool, clean sheets, I was able to breath a sigh of contentment. We’d had a long day, but to endure the lack of sleep, long travel day and heat of the August day to see two of the amazing towns of the Amalfi Coast…it was all worth it!

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Basilica of Sant’Antonino

Cloister of San Francesco

Villa Communale

Leonelli’s Beach Club

  • http://www.leonellisbeach.com/en/#Beach
  • Address: Spiaggia San Francesco, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0900-1900, April to October
  • Rental Rates: Around 12€ to rent a lounger and umbrella. Restaurant/snack bar available.

Marameo Beach Club

  • https://www.marameobeach.com/
  • Address: Spiaggia San Francesco, Via Marina Piccola, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0830-2400, April to October
  • Rental Rates: Around 12€ to rent a lounger and umbrella. Restaurant/snack bar available.

Peter’s Beach Club

  • https://www.petersbeachsorrento.com/
  • Address: Via S. Francesco, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0900-1700
  • Rental Rates: Around 12€ to rent a lounger and umbrella. Restaurant/snack bar available.

Sedil Dominova

  • Address: Via S. Cesareo, 70, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0900-2400

Sorrento Cathedral

  • http://www.cattedralesorrento.it/
  • Address: Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 46, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0830-1230 and 1630-2030. Mass schedule, Sunday and holidays, 0830, 1000, 1115 and 1800. Week days, 0830 and 1800.
  • Admission: free

Bastion of Parsano