Did You See George’s House?

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

George Clooney.  Actor.  Filmmaker.  Two-time Sexiest Man Alive (according to People Magazine).  Husband to Amal Alamuddin Clooney.  Owner of a villa at Lake Como.

Funny how people zero in on certain aspects of other’s lives.  We know a few things about many celebrities, but why does everyone happen to know that George Clooney owns a house on Lake Como?  Does the average person know where Johnny Depp’s  homes are located?  How about Brad Pitt’s?  However, when you say that you’ve been to Lake Como, everyone asks if you’ve seen George’s house.

imageLake Como, a tourist destination, is well known for the many villas and palaces built on its shores.  An attraction for aristocrats and the wealthy since Roman times, many famous people, such as Madonna, Gianni Versace, Sylvester Stallone and Richard Branson, have or have had homes overlooking the pristine lake.

Located about an hour outside of Milan, by train, Lake Como is a nice respite from the hustle and bustle of Italy’s fashion capital.  Taking the train from Milan is quite easy, but first, you must decide which part of the lake you want to visit.  All parts of the lake can be accessed from Como via ferry, but if you wish to visit Varenna and Bellagio, you may also take the train from Milan directly to Varenna and then a ferry to Bellagio.

imagePersonally, I like to start in Como and take the ferry to other parts of the lake, especially if it is a beautiful day.  The scenery is breathtaking and the ride usually smooth.  Start by taking the train from Milano Nord Cadorna station and head to Como Nord Lago.  Once you have reached the Como Nord Lago station, it is a short picturesque walk along the lake front to the ferry terminal, Navigazioni Lago di Como.  After purchasing tickets, wait for the appropriate ferry at the designated dock.

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If you know which town you would like to visit, you may purchase a one-way fare or return ticket.  If you would like to check out a few towns along the way, it is possible to purchase a one-day pass which allows you on-off access to the ferry throughout the day with return to the original port.

While waiting for the ferry, you can take in the sights along the waterfront.

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The first time I visited Lake Como, my destination was Bellagio, about a one-hour trip on the fast ferry and a two-hour trip on the slower boat.  A beautiful town, it was perfect for walking around, visiting the many shops, lunch and taking a multitude of photos.

Most recently, traveling with a group, our destination was Torno, Italy, about 5 kilometers northeast of Como.  Our ferry had open deck access which allowed us to stand or sit in the front or back of the vessel.  Using my telephoto lens, I was able to capture the beauty of the many towns spread out along the lake’s shores as well as up close when we stopped at other towns to pick up additional passengers.

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Arriving in Torno, we were captivated by the small-town beauty spread out before us.  Colorful boats lined the very small harbour and the Romanesque church of St. Tecia, with its large Gothic rose window stood majestically before us.

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A couple of small restaurants, Bar Italia and Ristorante Vapore preside along the harbour and offer both indoor and outdoor seating.  Deciding on the Ristorante Vapore, we were not disappointed in their menu offering a wide variety of salads, pasta dishes and seafood as well as extensive wine offerings.  Sitting outside and enjoying our delectable fare, we were enthralled with the spectacular views and the ever changing light as the sun danced around the clouds.

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After our exquisite lunch, we each set out to explore the immediate area, including the church and the small alleys and pathways radiating from the waterfront.

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With the arrival of our ferry, we were soon on our way back to Como and our train to Milan.

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imageShould you wish to spend time in the town of Como, some suggestions include the Cathedral of Como, Basilica di Sant’Abbondio, Piazza Cavour, Teatro Sociale and the Funicular Como-Brunate.  The latter, a charming train, offers striking panoramic views of the Lake, Como’s historic center and the Alps in a seven minute journey to Brunate, a town located 700 meters above sea level and the starting point of numerous nature walks.

A visit to Lake Como is a must when visiting the Milan area.  With much to explore around the lake, spending a few days may be more suited to your liking with many options to suit different budgets and requirements.

And be sure, when you get back, someone WILL ask you if you saw George’s house!

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Lake Como

 

 

 

Unfinished Business

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The late Antoni Gaudi has some unfinished business in Barcelona.  An unfinished church…Sagrada Familia. Ever hear of it?

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About three or four years ago, in order to accommodate my family’s busy schedule, I decided to work a trip that flew over the Mother’s Day weekend.   Only the second time that I had ever been away from my children on the holiday, I decided that I was going to make the most of my day and find something extra-special to occupy my time in Barcelona.

Deciding to visit the Sagrada Familia, the preeminent masterpiece of architect Antoni Gaudi, in the Catalan city, I planned to spend my afternoon gazing upon the unfinished beauty of this magnificent church.  Having studied architecture, I was touched by its complexity, references to nature and combination of Gothic and Art Nouveau styles.  The fact that it had recently passed the midpoint of its completion enamored me further.  Knowing that I would have to come again and again before its expected completion date of 2026 was okay…I could follow its progression.

Spending another day in Barcelona recently, I decided that it was time to re-visit Sagrada Familia to see how much it had evolved over the last few years.  During that last visit, I had walked up to the church, waited in line, purchased my ticket and walked right in.  Things were a bit different this time.  Once I arrived at the hotel, I logged into the Sagrada Familia website and purchased a ticket.  Since all tickets are for timed access, I was lucky to be able to purchase a ticket for a 5:30 pm entry.  This was perfect.  I could sleep a bit late, make my way in that direction and still be done by dinner.

imageIt was a beautiful, sunny day as I walked in the direction of the one of the most famous Roman Catholic churches in the world, one, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.  Although construction began in 1882 and is still continuing, the church was consecrated and proclaimed a minor basilica by Pope Benedict XVI in 2010.

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imageFinding large numbers of tourists milling around the perimeter of the church, I made my way to the entrance and presented my ticket at the northeast side of the institution.  Walking up the stairway, I had to take care to carefully make each step as I could not keep from gazing upward at the intricate carvings making up the Nativity facade which is flanked by four spire-like bell towers.

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Once in the interior of the church, my gaze was immediately drawn upward.  The vaulting of the ceiling in the apse is spectacular and something I have never seen in any other church as well as the forest of exclusive columns grown from the imagination of its architect.  These columns were under construction during my last visit, but now stand tall, proud and almost treelike.

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imageThe choir loft is especially colorful late in the afternoon when the sun is low and the colors from the legions of stained glass windows are cast upon the walls.  I suspect that during each part of the day, the church maintains a unique look relative to the illumination of the sun and its position.

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imageWork is currently being done in the chancel and the area is cordoned off restricting a continual view of the space.  The Crucifixion of Christ, the Expressionist bronze sculpture by Carlos Mani, which hangs above the high altar, however, is still visible above the construction walls.

Walking around the the rear of the altar, you will find the entry to the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and Penitence, a space reserved for worship and contemplation and the location of Gaudi’s tomb.  During my visit, I was unable to navigate this space as a private baptismal ceremony was being conducted. Here, you will also find the pipes of the grand organ than fills the space with its melody.

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Should you wish to attend a service in the basilica, do not expect regularly scheduled masses as you would in other basilicas.  Throughout the year, occasional masses are held which are open to the general public, though an invitation must be held to attend.  Information when available can be obtained from the website.

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imageThe towers’ entry points are from lifts in the interior of the church.  Since a separate ticket is required, I was unable to visit as no tickets were available when I purchased my entry earlier in the day.  Six new towers will be added before the anticipated completion in 2026, with the tallest being 564 feet, making it the tallest religious structure in Europe. When finished, there will be a total of 18 towers, 12 being on three facades, the Nativity facade, the Passion facade and the Glory facade.  An additional four towers will represent the four evangelists and will surround the largest middle tower, dedicated to Jesus Christ. The final tower dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary will be over the apse.
imageAfter exiting the church on the opposite side, turn around and set your eyes on the Facade of the Suffering Way.  Not as detailed as the Nativity facade, this facade is expressionistic and modern.  Gaudi once said that if he had started construction with this facade, people would have distanced themselves from his work.

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After walking to the right, you can visit Gaudi’s workshop and the museum.

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As with the interior of the basilica, light affects how you view the structure. Before you enter the Sagrada Familia, take time to walk around the entire structure and examine all four sides (though two are still under construction).  After your exit, walk around again, I promise, things will look different as the sun changes direction and the type of light is casts.  Truly a thing of beauty!

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With about sixty-five percent of the Sagrada Familia finished, the completion date is planned to coincide with the hundred year anniversary of Gaudi’s death.  The present chief architect is Jordi Fauli, who leads a team of forty construction workers.  He is the ninth generation of architects to lead the construction of the basilica and is expected to be the final architect bringing alive the dreams and imagination of Antoini Gaudi.

Glad that I had taken the time to revisit this architectural phenomenon, my plans are to come back every three of four years until its completion.  Next time, hopefully the towers will be on my agenda and I will experience all of the new renovations and additions that are in store.  If you happen to find yourself in Barcelona, make sure to plan accordingly and see this amazing work of art!

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Sagrada Familia

  • http://www.sagradafamilia.org/en/
  • Carrer de Mallorca, 401, 08013 Barcelona, Spain
  • Hours:  November to February, 0900-1800, March, 0900-1900, April to September, 0900-2000, October, 0900-1900, December 25, 26, January 1 and 6, 0900-1400.
  • Admission:  Tickets may be purchased online (recommended) or at the ticket counter if available.  Sale of tickets finished 15 minutes before closing time.image
  • Option 1:  Entry ticket, audioguide and towers, 29€
  • Option 2:  Entry ticket, audioguide and Gaudi House Museum (Park Guell) 24€
  • Option 3:  Entry ticket and guided tour, 24€
  • Option 4:  Entry ticket and audioguide, 22€
  • Option 5:  Entry ticket, 15€
  • Getting There:  Metro: Lines 2 and 5. Sagrada Familia Station

 

 

 

 

 

A Synagogue Second To None

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Rushing to make the train to Karlstejn, I walked quickly, head bowed, with a quick glance to my watch ever couple of minutes.  Passing down Jerusalem Street, nothing in the immediate area caught my preoccupied glances.

Taking the same route, in reverse, later that evening, at a much slower pace, I took in the astounding architecture that lies at every corner.  Turning onto Jerusalem Street, with an upward glance…

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“Whoa! How did I not see that this morning?”

Hard to miss for its Moorish Revival form and Art Nouveau decoration, the colorful Jubilee Synagogue of Prague looks like something out of Disney and beckons tourists to enter.  Really, how could you not, especially if you are a fan of Aladdin!

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imageThe Jubilee Synagogue was built in 1906 and designed by Wilhelm Stiastny.  It was named in honor of the silver Jubilee of Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria, however, since Czechoslovakia became independent in 1918, it has been called the Jerusalem Synagogue for the street it is located on.

Open as a house of worship for over a century, except for the period of Nazi German occupation when it was used to store confiscated Jewish property, the Synagogue is now open, during part of the year, to tourists and those interested in its incredible architecture.

Not the oldest synagogue in the city, nor located in the Jewish quarter of the city, Josefov, it is noted for being the largest place of worship in the city and certainly the most colorful.  Because it is sandwiched between two tenement building, it stands out all the more.  After entering through the horseshoe arches on the facade and paying your admittance fee, surprisingly, you are met with a basilica type triple-nave style with two transverse wings in which churches are usually built.

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My suggestion is to take a seat and take a look…up, down, forward, backward…everywhere.

imageThe nave and the gallery are illuminated by large stained-glass windows both in the walls and the ceiling.  The large central arch frames a rosette window with the Star of David.  In addition, wrought chandeliers hang throughout the building.  Many diverse paintings adorn the walls and a large organ is located on the western tribune.  The high Ark is adorned with a vine leaf motif and the tablets of the Ten Commandments.

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imageAfter your tour of the bottom level is complete, make your way upstairs to the women’s gallery, where you will find an exhibition on the synagogue, describing its history and construction, how it withstood World War II and the changes to the Jewish community in Prague throughout history.

imageWhile not on the regular Prague Jewish Quarter and Synagogue tours, find your way to the Jerusalem Synagogue.  Not like anything you have ever seen, I promise you will be amazed that something like this exists in Prague…even Europe.  If you are visiting during the busy summer months (when it is open) you will also appreciate that with it not being on the usual touristy paths, it is somewhat quiet. More of a reason to visit and appreciate its beauty, architecture and history!

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Jerusalem Synagogue

  • http://www.synagogue.cz/cs/jerusalem-synagogue-page/
  • Address:  Jeruzalemska 7, Prague 1
  • Hours:  April 23-October 31, daily, 1300-1700
  • Admission:  50 CZK (about $2.00)
  • Getting There:  Take a tram no. 3, 9, 14 or 24 to stop Jindrisska. Turn to Jeruzalemska Street just opposite the stop. You can also get there on foot from the Wencelas Square via Jindrisska street.
  • Regular Prayer Service:  Fridays at 2000 (April-September), Saturdays at 0900 (year round)

 

 

Baroque and Beautiful

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved

“I am a sucker for a beautiful church.”

Anyone who has read through my blog, knows this statement to be entirely true.  Actually, I love all religious institutions, for their differences in ornamentation, their unique history and for the many beliefs and people that they represent.  I love basilicas, chapels, cathedrals, synagogues, temples, mosques and pagodas.  When I see a church, I want to see the interior…what makes it different from others that I have visited?  Does it have a saint interred there?  Relics on display?  Beautiful stained glass?  Paintings by a famed artist?  Maybe this has a lot to do with the fact that I studied architecture in college…or maybe it has to do with my love of photography and all of the beautiful photographic opportunities each building offers…maybe it has to do with the fact that entry into most institutions is free and therefore, easy on the touristy pocketbook!

St. Nicholas Church 001The Church of St. Nicholas, the most famous Baroque church in Prague, is located in the center of the Lesser Town Square.  Not to be confused with the other two St. Nicholas churches in Prague, one of which is located in Old Town Square, it is a most prominent and distinctive landmark with it’s green dome is visible from all over the city.  I have walked by it countless times, but usually in transit to another destination with no extra time to stop and visit.

Upon entering the Church of St. Nicholas, we found that this particular institution does charge an admission fee for entry, unlike many others, however, at a cost of 70 CZK (about $3.00 U.S.) it’s not an extremely hefty one.  Still, I do not agree with paying to see the inside of a church that has an active congregation.  Paying a few dollars to see the inside of a well renowned landmark will not kill me, but hey, free is free!

After stepping away from the ticket counter and preparing my camera, we began making our way into the church.  I think I held my breath a little in anticipation of what we would find as we stepped inside.  And there it was!  Worth the 70 CZK admission?  You bet!

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The construction of the Church of St. Nicholas began in 1703, lasted approximately one hundred years and employed three generations of great Baroque architects…father, son and son-in-law…Kryštof Dientzenhofer, Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer and Anselmo Lurago.  It was used by the Russian orthodox congregation from 1870-1914, used as a warehouse and housed a garrison at one time.

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When entering, your eyes venture upward toward the ceiling and the 70 meter high dome which is decorated with a magnificent fresco of the Celebration of the Holy Trinity by Franz Palko.  Other frescos by Jan Lukas Kracker are also worth closer inspection.  After heading upstairs, you have a closer view of the grand ceiling fresco and the nave from the viewing gallery that runs along the left side of the church.

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The interior is richly decorated with  sculptures by František Ignác Platzer, many paintings and the side chapels abundantly adorned in gold.

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The main organ, with a beautiful fresco of St. Cecilia, patron saint of music, above it, was built from 1745-1747.  It has over 4,000 pipes up to six meters in length and was most famously played by Mozart during his stay in Prague in 1787.

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St. Nicholas Church 104The belfry was the last part of St. Nicholas to be built and was constructed by Anselmo Lurago from 1751-1756, though designed by his father in law.  As high as the church’s adjacent dome, it does not actually belong to the church but rather the Lesser Town.  Interestingly, the tower was used during the 1960’s by the state police to spy on the western countries embassies nearby.  This I learned, was something interesting to see, despite the additional climb, but it wasn’t until after our visit that we learned that it was included in our admission.  (Nor did we ever see the entrance)  Reading up on the church’s history after our trip, I discovered that visitors are allowed to ascend the tower’s 215 steps, during the day, to experience the splendid views over Malá Strana and across the Vltava River to the Old Town.

The Church of St. Nicholas is not to be missed in Prague, the Czech Republic or even Europe.  One to rival anything that I have visited previously, it is worth the price of admission..maybe even a bit more.  Allow plenty of time to explore the church in it’s entirety…just don’t miss the tower!  I’ve already put aside my 70 CZK so that I can stop in and check it out on my next visit!

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St. Nicholas Church

  • http://www.stnicholas.cz/
  • Address:  St. Nicholas Church Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town, Prague 1, Czech Republic
  • Hours:  March-October, 0900-1700, daily, November-February, 0900-1600, daily
  • Admission:  Adults, 70 CZK, Students (10-26 years), 50 CZK, Children (under 10), free
  • How To Get There:  Tram stop, Malostranske namesti (trams 12, 20, 22)

The Castle on the Hill

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When someone finds themselves in Prague for the very first time, no doubt, they will be drawn to the Prague Castle.  A showpiece of the city, it is perched above the Lesser Town (Mala Strana) in the Castle District and keeps a watchful eye on the activities of the city.

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One of the largest castle complexes in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site, it was founded in the 9th century by Prince Bořivoj of the Premyslid Dynasty.  Consisting of numerous palaces and ecclesiastical buildings of various architectural styles, the castle is the official residence of the President of the Czech Republic.   Once a seat of power for kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman emperors and presidents of Czechoslovakia, it is one of the primary tourist attractions of the city.

Up early and heading on the subway towards the Castle, we were excited for all that there was to experience in the complex.  On previous visits, I had been on the Castle grounds but had never visited any of the major buildings. Exiting the Malostranska metro station, we decided to make the long steady climb to the castle rather than connect to the tram so that we could experience the beautiful views of the city along the way as well as encounter the Karel Hasler statue and the usual accompanying guitarist.

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imageOnce inside the complex, finding where to purchase tickets was a bit perplexing.  Entering the Old Royal Palace, I finally discovered a ticket window.  Many different attraction combinations are offered and we decided on Option B, the most popular option (according to the ticket seller) which included the Royal Palace and Vladislav Hall, St. Vitus Cathedral, Basilica of St. George and Golden Lane.  After our tickets were purchased and we were waiting to enter Vladislav Hall within the palace, I noticed that now familiar sign…the one with the camera and a slash through it.  Oh no!  Not again!  However, after reading a little further, I found that pictures were allowed with a permit that could also be purchased at the ticket window.

imageEntering Vladislav Hall, we were impressed with the size of the structure as well as the arch-ribbed vaulting of the ceiling, the large Italian Renaissance windows and the five bronze 16th century Renaissance chandeliers. Originally designed to serve as a throne hall, it was the largest hall in medieval Prague and one of the largest halls in Central Europe.  Built in the Late Gothic Style with some Early Renaissance features, the exact dates of construction are not clear.  Used for banquets, councils, coronations and indoor jousting tournaments, one of the most notable features is the Rider’s Staircase on the northern side which was designed to receive a knight on horseback.

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One of the oldest parts of the Prague Castle, the Old Royal Palace dates back to 1135.  Moving from Vladislav Hall in the southwestern corner into the former offices of the Bohemian Chancellery, you find the room where Protestant nobles, rebelling against the Bohemian estates and the emperor, threw two of the emperor’s counselors and their secretary out of the window, which sparked the Thirty Years’ War.

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At the eastern end of the hall, steps lead up to a balcony that overlooks All Saints’ Chapel.  Another doorway, leads to the Assembly Hall, which contains replicas of the Bohemian crown jewels.  A spiral staircase leads to the New Land Rolls Room, the repository for land titles, where the walls are covered with the clerks’ coats of arms.

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A couple of the most interesting stories about the castle pertain to the procurement of the castle by Nazi Germany in 1939.  When President Emil Hacha was forced to hand the Czech nation over to the Germans, Adolf Hitler spent a night in the castle gloating over his new acquisition.  During the Nazi occupation in World War II, the castle became the headquarters of Reinhard Heydrich, the “Reich Protector of Bohemia and Moravia”.  Placing the Bohemian crown on his own head, he was doomed according to legend, which states that if a despot places the crown on his head, he is doomed to die within a year.  Less than a year after assuming power, he was attacked by British-trained Slovak and Czech soldiers while on his way to the castle and died of his wounds.

The Old Royal Palace was very interesting and filled with history.  The old saying, “If the walls could talk”, is definitely true here as many historical events have taken place on the premises.

imageMoving on from the Old Royal Palace, we decided to backtrack from the Palace towards our original entry point, to Golden Lane, the 15th century, old world street within the complex.  Originally known as Goldsmith’s Lane for the many goldsmiths that resided there, it was created when a new outer wall was added to the existing complex.

Once when visiting the castle grounds, I was able to quickly walk through Golden Lane at the end of the day when the grounds were closing, but unable to catch more than a glimpse of the old world buildings. This time, we were able to visit each of the eleven historic houses that contain period scenes that depict the life of the artisans who worked and lived in the structures.

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In the upper level of the houses, a medieval armory is showcased with a multitude of suits of armor and weapons.  Cannons are also displayed in the courtyard at the entry area of the lane.

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imageAfter our visit to Golden Lane was complete and we headed back toward the center of the complex, we decided to duck into St. George’s Basilica, while there was no line.  The oldest surviving church building within the complex and the second oldest in Prague, the basilica was founded by Vratislaus I of Bohemia in 920.  Rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in 1142, the present facade, with its twin white towers than can been seen throughout the city, was added between the years of 1671 and 1691.  The basilica holds the tomb of saint Ludmila of Bohemia as well as shrines of Vratislav and Boleslaus II of Bohemia.  It also serves as a concert hall.

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Our next and final visit was to the imposing Gothic structure of St. Vitus’ Cathedral.  To many people, the Prague Castle is St. Vitus Cathedral as it is what dominates the skyline.  Known primarily as St. Vitus Cathedral, it is also dedicated to Saints Wenceslas and Adalbert.

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The largest and most important church in the country, St. Vitus was founded on November 21, 1344.  Taking almost six centuries to complete, it was damaged by a great fire in 1541 and its final phase of construction took place between 1873 and 1929.

The line to enter St. Vitus was extremely long and was hampered by the security measures employed at the entrance.  After an hour’s wait, we were finally able enter the cathedral.

imageAs we walked throughout the interior, we stood among the massive pillars supporting the magnificent vaulted ceiling and were impressed by the side chapels and the beautiful stained glass windows, most notably one designed by Mucha, installed in the north nave in 1931.  The window, portrays St. Wenceslas, as a boy, with his grandmother, St. Ludmila, surrounded by episodes from the lives of Saints Cyril and Methodius who spread Christianity among the Slavs.  The image of Slavia is also included below Christ.

The extraordinary cathedral has overseen the coronation of Czech kings and queens and contains the tombs of many Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors.  In the chancel of the cathedral, in front of the high alter, is the royal mausoleum.  Below this, the royal crypt accommodates the royal tombs.  Czech kings and queens, archbishops and patron saints of the country are interred here, most importantly, St. John of Nepomuk and King Charles IV.

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imageThe most exceptional part of the cathedral is St. Wenceslas Chapel, built between 1344 and 1364 and is where the relics of the saint are kept.  The lower part of the walls are decorated with over 1300 semi-precious stones and frescoes of the Passion of Christ.  The upper walls’ paintings depict the life of St. Wenceslas and a Gothic statue of St. Wenceslas stands in the middle of the wall.  The chapel is not open to the public, but it can be viewed from two doorways.  It is also here that the priceless Bohemian coronation jewels, the fourth oldest in Europe, are stored behind a small door secured by seven locks.  The Czech Crown Jewels are only displayed to the public once every eight years, however, the replicas can be seen in the Old Royal Palace.

Religious services in the Cathedral can be attended daily and confessions are heard twice a week.

imageAfter visiting all of the attractions included in our ticket, we were free to wander the grounds of the castle.  There are many other parts of the castle to visit, including the gardens, St. George’s convent and the National Gallery, the exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, the Powder Tower, the Toy Museum and the picture gallery of Prague Castle.  One of the most memorable things to take in is the changing of the guard which takes place hourly on the hour with the midday ceremony including a fanfare & banner exchange.

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No visit to the Czech capital is complete without a visit to the Prague Castle.  Whether you decide to walk the grounds or purchase a ticket and visit one of the many historical buildings within the grounds, you will not be disappointed with all that there is to offer.

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The Prague Castle

  • https://www.hrad.cz/
  • Address:  Prague Castle, Castle District, Prague 1, Czech Republic
  • Admission Information:  https://www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle-for-visitors/tickets
  • Ticket Type:  Prague Castle – Circuit A, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
    St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower, Powder Tower
  • Ticket Type:  Prague Castle – Circuit B, Adults, 250CZK, Students 125CZK, Family 500CZK
    St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower
  • Prague Castle – Circuit C, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
    Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Prague Castle Picture Gallery
  • Exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, Adults 140CZK, Students 70CZK, Family 280CZK
  • Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Adults 300CZK, Students 150CZK, Family 600CZK
  • Prague Castle Picture Gallery, Adults 100CZK, Students 50CZK, Family 200CZK
  • Powder Tower – Exhibition of the Castle Guard, Adults 70CZK, Students 40CZK, Family 140CZK
  • Great South Tower with a View Gallery, Adults 150CZK
  • Note:  Tickets are valid for two consecutive days.
  • Photography Permit, 50CZK, photography allowed without flash and tripod, prohibited in exhibitions “The Story of Prague Castle”, “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral” and in Prague Castle Picture Gallery
  • Hours:  Prague Castle Complex, daily 0600-2200, Historical buildings, April 1-October 31, 0900-1700, November 1-March 31, 0900-1600, Prague Castle Gardens, April & October, 1000-1800, May & September, 1000-1900, June & July 1000-2100, August, 1000-2000, Changing of the Guard, April-October, hourly on the hour, 0700-2000, November-March, hourly on the hour, 0700-1800
  • St. Vitus Cathedral Masses:  Sunday Mass, 0830 (celebrated in Latin every last Sunday of the month), Sunday Vespers, 1700 (not during July-September), Monday-Thursday Mass, 0700, Friday Masses, 0700 and 1800, Saturday Mass, 0700, Confessions (Czech and English) Sunday, 0930-1000 and Friday, 1730-1750.
  • Getting There:  Metro station:  Malostranska (line A), then take tram 22 to Prazsky hrad (shortest route).   You can also walk the many steps uphill from Malostranska.

prague-castle-map

 

The Marble Church

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Above most rooftops of Copenhagen, in the elegant area of Frederiksstaden, you can see the copper green dome of the Marble Church.  Impressively beautiful and near the Amalienborg Castle and The Opera, the Marble Church (or the Frederik’s Church, its official name) is one most tourists aspire to visit on a trip to the Danish city.

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imageHaving walked past this Lutheran church a few times before, I had never set foot inside its doorways.  Currently, lots of construction behind and adjacent to the church takes away from its impressive facade, however, when stepping inside, you are struck by the awe-inspiring massive dome…the largest dome in Scandinavia…with a span of almost 102 feet and decorated with a painting of the twelve apostles.  Though not as large, this dome was supposedly inspired by the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

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In 1749, King Frederik V decided to build a church to honor God, the absolute monarchy and the royal house of Oldenborg celebrating the tercentenary of ruling the Country.  The church and town were named after him and together with his leading court architect, Nicolai Eigtved, they embarked on the monumental project.

The foundation stone was laid October 30, 1749 and a mighty domed church was planned.  Finances were limited but the King refused to cut back on materials, thus slowing progress. Large solid blocks of marble from eastern Norway were used to build the walls of the church, furthermore, increasing costs.

After the deaths of Eigtved in 1754 and King Frederik V in 1766, Frederik’s son, King Christian VII decided to suspend the project.  No progress was made for 100 years with the walls, at barely a height of 60 feet.  Although the site was deemed a ruin, it was a popular motif for many artists.  Eventually, banker and financier C.F. Tietgen took over the project in 1874.  The rebuilding started later that year under architect Ferdinand Meldahl and was finally completed, after 20 additional years of construction, on August 19, 1894.

imageimageOne of the highlights of most Copenhagen tours, be sure to expect busloads of tourists to be on site.  If you can dodge the hoards, however, be sure to take in the 14 bronze statues of prominent Danish Church Fathers that surround the church (with present construction, hard to see all).  On the balustrade around the dome are sculptures in zinc of 18 historical figures from the bible…prophets and apostles, in addition to Martin Luther, the founder of Reformation.  On the interior, note the motifs from the 42nd Psalm that flank the altar and observe the the church’s two organs.  The oldest, referred to as the Swan Organ, is no longer in use, however, the newer Marcussen organ is currently being used during services (and was being tested while I was visiting).  In the front chapel, take in the woodcarvings depicting the Deposition.

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A most beautiful and historic church, that is well worth a visit while in Copenhagen, will take, at most, about a half hour to visit (unless taking the Dome Tour).  It can be combined with a visit to Amalienborg Palace and countless other attractions in the area.

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The Marble Church

  • http://www.marmorkirken.dk/
  • Address:  Frederiksgade 4, 1265 København K
  • Admission:  free
  • Hours:  Monday-Thursday and Saturday 1000-1700.  Friday and Saturday, 1200-1700.
  • Dome Tours, Saturday and Sunday 1300 and 1500 and weekdays at 1300 from June 15-August 31.  Admission for dome tours, Adults, 35 DKK, Children (under 18), 20 DKK.
  • Getting There: Bus, 1A, 15, 20E.  Distance from Town Hall Square, 5 km, about 20-30 min walk.

 

 

Fool Your Eye

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

It has been said that the Italians love a good optical illusion.

If you do too, when in Rome, here is the place for you.  The church of St. Ignatius of Loyola, located near the Pantheon, not only boasts breathtaking frescoes and amazing architecture, but a fake dome!

Founded in 1551 by St. Ignatius, as a church of the Roman College and inspired by the Jesuit mother church, the Church of the Gesù in Rome. Completed in 1650, it was designed with a Latin cross plan and numerous side chapels, the focus being on the high altar at the end of the eastern apse.  Decorated with colored marble, animated stucco figural relief, richly ornamented altars, extensive gilding and Corinthian pilasters ringing the entire interior,  it contrasts with its unassuming facade overlooking the Piazza di S. Ignazio.

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What stands this church, designed by Jesuit mathematician Orazio Grassi, apart from so many others in Rome, is it that when money was not available for a dome, a painter was hired to create the effect of one.

When entering the church, the overall effect is one of vastness and richly appointed ornamentation.  My advice to you is to save the best part for last.  Take your time to walk along each side of the church and inspect each of the chapels and the main altar.  Each of the chapels are different and worthy of individual inspection containing amazing altarpieces and artwork.

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The chapel in the right transept, dedicated to St. Alloysius Gonzaga, houses the remains of Cardinal St. Robert Bellarmine and a ceiling painted by Andrea Pozzo who also created the fresco ceiling in the chapel in the left transept.  Pay close attention to his work here as you will see it again.  The chapel in the left transept also houses the relics of Saint John Berchmans.  The chapel just to the right of the church’s presbytery (at the south-east corner) houses the funerary monuments of Pope Gregory XV and his nephew, Cardinal Ludovisi, the church’s founder.

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Move into the center of the church.  The main highlights of the church are the magnificent frescoes created by Andrea Pozzo.  The ceiling painting, which covered the whole length of the nave, depicts the entry of Ignatius into paradise.

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Next, stand on the marble disc at the center of the church, and gaze upward, you will see a dome.  But is it?

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Figures that are in reality painted horizontally seem to rise up towards the heavens.  The dome also seems to have a real vaulting, however, with closer inspection, you will see that it is really flat…a trompe-l’oeil.  A true masterpiece by Andrea Pozzo.

Leaving the church, take a few minutes to admire the Piazza Sant’Ignazio spread out before the church.  The square with its richly hued baroque/rococo styled buildings, designed by Raguzzini, house an office of the Carabinieri, the Italian paramilitary police.

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St. Ignazio Church

  • http://santignazio.gesuiti.it/en/
  • Hours:  Monday-Saturday, 0730-1900, Sundays and holidays, 0900-1900.  Free guided tours, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, 1500-1800.
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Located near the Pantheon

 

 

St. Paul’s Outside the Walls

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

St. Peters
St. John the Lateran
St. Mary Major
St. Paul’s Outside the Walls

Of the four major basilicas in Rome, I had been to three.  It was time to venture a little out of the city center in search of the latter.

Strangely, I had never heard of St. Paul’s Outside the Walls.  While reading a thread about the bus system in Rome, I came across the name from someone seeking travel instructions.  This basilica, while occupying land in Italian territory, is not within the territory of the Vatican City State as are the other three.  Located outside the Aurelian walls of Rome, hence its name, the Holy See fully owns the Basilica, however, Italy is legally obligated to recognize the Vatican’s full ownership.

imageGetting to St. Paul’s is not extremely difficult.  Discovering that the basilica is adjacent to a metro stop of the same name, I decided that taking the metro would be the easiest way to travel.  Arriving at the station of Basilica San Paolo, the dome of the basilica was easily spotted.  Following a group of nuns past the clock tower ensured I was on the right path!

Arriving at the entrance on the west side of the basilica, I was shocked to see something I would only expect at St. Peter’s…a long line waiting to go through security.  The line was not very organized and much too wide.  People were busy talking and not moving forward, while others were walking up the sides of the line and moving ahead.  After a twenty minute wait, I finally made my way up and past security.

There are many things that set this basilica apart from the others.  When entering the structure, the lovely columns that line the front of building enclose a remarkable courtyard.  Until you reach the center, you don’t quite see the beauty of the basilica’s gold front facade with the detailed mosaics that catch the sunlight.  In the courtyard stands an imposing statue of the apostle Paul amidst an impeccably maintained garden .

Interesting to note is that this courtyard and facade as well as many things within the church were all added in the nineteenth century.  Of all the churches in Rome, this particular one had preserved it primitive character for 1,435 years until it was destroyed by fire in 1823.  Eager to see the basilica rebuilt, the world contributed to its restoration;  the Viceroy of Egypt sent pillars of alabaster and the Emperor of Russia, malachite and lapis lazuli for the tabernacle.  The Italian government ensured that work on the principle facade, looking toward the Tiber, was completed and declared the church a national monument.

imageWalking up to the basilica, a central bronze door, with inlaid silver, is the focal point.  It was created in 1930 by Antonio Maraini, after the original, a gift from Pope Gregory VII in 1070, was damaged by the fire.  (The original, can be seen, restored, on the inside of the basilica).  The reliefs on the door present scenes from the lives of Saints Peter and Paul.  More importantly, this door is flanked on the right by one of the four Holy Doors in Rome, as declared by the Vatican.  The Holy Door is only opened during Jubilee years by the Pope (once every twenty-five years).

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When entering the church, you are overcome by the vastness of the space only broken by the four rows of twenty granite columns that separate the central nave from its aisles.  The original columns of the church before the fire had been taken from ancient Roman temples and were unable to be salvaged.

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Paintings of the pope above the columns

Most interesting are the circular paintings of the popes that line the space, something not seen in the other basilicas.  Most of these paintings were damaged by the fire and restored, but some of the inscriptions have been eternally lost.  The pictures begin with St. Peter to the present pope, Francis. Very few spaces remain and legend has it that when these spaces are filled, a major event will occur.

Walking farther into the basilica, you will find a recessed area with circular stairways leading down on either side.  Here you will find the surviving links of the chain, on a silk background, that according to tradition, held St. Paul while he was a prisoner in Rome between 61 and 63 AD.  These chains are illuminated and displayed in a case near his tomb which is located under the altar.

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The chains of St. Paul
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Paschal Candle

Near the front of the altar area, take note of the carved Pachal candle which stands more than 16 feet high and was made in the 12th century by Nichola dell’Angelo and Pietro Vassalletto.

At the rear of the church are the chapels, the Blessed Sacrament Chapel, the Chapel of Saint Benedict, the Chapel of St. Laurence and the Chapel of St. Stephen.  Above the Tabernacle in the Blessed Sacrament Chapel hangs a magnificent crucifix sculpted by Pierre Cavallini.  This is the crucifix of which Christ turned his head toward St. Bridget of Sweden and gave her the “15 Prayers of St. Bridget”.

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St. of St. Stephen
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Blessed Sacrament Chapel
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Chapel of St. Benedict

While in the apse, take a look upward at the only remaining part of the medieval basilica, the 13th century mosaic, created by Venetian artists.  This breathtaking mosaic, ordered by Pope Honorius III,  depicts Christ on a throne flanked by the Apostles Peter, Paul, Andrew and Luke.

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Apse Mosaic

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At the end of the right transept is the entrance to the cloisters and the Chapel of Relics.  An entrance fee is required to enter, but worth every penny to see the cloisters with their graceful, twisted mosaics-filled columns that line the arcades.  These cloisters, built between 1208 and 1235 by the Vassalletti family, were untouched by the fire of 1823 and have often been described as the most beautiful in Rome.  The walls of the walks are lined with ancient sculpture and epigraphy recovered in excavations, mostly during the rebuilding of the church.  In the center of the cloisters is a rose garden.  This area was relatively empty during my visit, allowing me to enjoy the peace and solitude which should accompany an area of that nature.  The Chapel of the Relics is worth only a quick visit now that the Chains of St. Paul are displayed within the church.

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Chapel of Relics

After exiting the church, a visit to the well-outfitted gift shop offers not only rosaries and other religious objects, but bottles of wine made by the Benedictine monks (not sold on Sundays or religious holidays).  You can also stop in to the cafe, next to the gift shop, for a snack or drink.

If visiting all four basilicas on your trip to Rome is a priority, then a trip to St. Paul’s Basilica is in order.  Many things set this particular basilica apart from the others in the city and certainly warrant visitation.  Although a little farther than the other attractions of the great city of Rome, it is not extremely difficult to reach and worth the extra effort to mark St. Paul’s off of your “church bucket list”.

 

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Basilica de San Paolo

  • http://www.basilicasanpaolo.org/
  • Piazzale San Paolo, 1,  00146 Roma
  • Admission:  Basilica entrance, free.  Cloister, €3.00
  • Hours:  Basilica, Daily, 0700-1830, Cloister, 0830-1815
  • Getting There:  Metro, Line B, stop, Basilica San Paolo.  Bus, Number 23 (Pincherle-Parravano), stop, Ostiense-S. Paolo

Padua or Padova? How Do You Say It?

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Crowds?  I hate them!

As much as I love experiencing warm weather in Venice, the one thing that keeps me away is the large number of tourists that descend upon the city during the summer months.  Some go to see the beautiful canals and architecture, some for the delectable Italian fare and many go, as it is the starting point for their cruise adventure. No matter what their reason, they crowd the narrow streets and the attractions making it difficult to enjoy the city intimately.  Sometimes, I avoid Venice altogether during June, July and August.  Sometimes, I travel there only during the off-season, coat in hand.  Sometimes I grin and bear it.  Sometimes…I find an escape.

There are many lovely cities near Venice that are easily reached by train or bus.  One such city, Padova, is a quick train ride from the city and a nice respite from the summer madness.

Padova, located about 25 miles west of Venice, claims to be the oldest city in northern Italy.  Standing on the Bacchiglione River, which surrounds the city like a moat, it hosts the University of Padova, founded in 1222, where Galileo Galilei was a lecturer and was the setting for most of the action in Shakespeare’s “The Taming of the Shrew”.

Many are confused by the different spellings of the city’s name, Padova and Padua…simply put, Padova is the Italian spelling and Padua, the English.

An extremely picturesque city, there are many arcaded streets opening into large piazzas and a large number of bridges crossing the Bacchiglione river. Not immense by any means, it is the perfect size to visit on a day trip or to spend a few nights.

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imageThere are many things to see within the city, including the most famous of the churches, the Basilica di Sant’Antonio da Padova.  Many pilgrims make the trip to Padova every year to visit this historic basilica, which honors St. Anthony, the patron saint of lost and stolen things.  Dating back to 1230, the basilica contains many great works of art as well the bones of St. Anthony and relics of the saint (see my post “Finder of Lost Things and People”).

imageAnother very famous place to visit in Padova is the Scrovegni Chapel.  Called the “Arena Chapel”, because it stands on the site of a Roman-era arena, it houses many remarkable frescoes by Giotto, detailing the life of the Virgin Mary.  These frescoes have been deemed to be of the most important in the world. Commissioned by Enrico degli Scrovegni, a wealthy private banker, it served as a private chapel once attached to his family’s palazzo.  Visiting the chapel is not an easy ordeal, however.  First, tickets must be secured on-line at least 24 hours in advance.  Visitors who have not booked should check entry availability at the Museum ticket office.  Those with tickets should reach the chapel at least five minutes before their allotted time or they will not be admitted.  Only twenty-five people are admitted per visit and must endure spending 15 minutes prior to entrance in a climate-controlled, air-locked vault, used to stabilize the temperature between the outside world and the inside of the chapel as preservation is of the utmost importance.  Visits within the chapel (after air-lock) are only allowed for 15 minutes and no video cameras, cameras, food or drinks are allowed.  Mobile phones must be switched off.  While I was not able to secure tickets for my visit, I did see the Chapel while traveling thru the city.

After your visit to Scrovegni chapel, head next door to the Church of the Eremitaimageni, a 13th century Augustinian church, containing the tombs of Jacopo and Urbertinello da Carrara, lords of Padova.  The church, located next to Nazi headquarters, suffered heavy damage during bombings in World War II and a great portion of the Mantagna’s frescoes within the Ovetari Chapel were destroyed.  Other frescoes by artists Guariento and Ansuino da Forli are preserved in the church.  The municipal art gallery is housed in the old monastery of the church.

image imageWalking south along the tram lines will lead you to the Tomb of Antenor, located at via del Santo and via San Francesco.  Antenor, a Trojan prince, hero and founder of Padova, was believed to have been buried in the city.  A marble arch containing a coffin was found and was proclaimed to be the precious remains of Antenor.  In 1985, however, examination of the bone fragments proved that the remains were could not be dated back to the time period as first believed.  The stone sarcophagus still stands in Piazza Antenor and bears an epitaph written in Latin by the Padovan judge Lovato dei Lovati…This sepulchre excavated from marble contains the body of the noble Antenor who left his country, guided the Eneti and Trojans, banished the Euganeans and founded Padua.  The tomb adjacent to Antenor’s belongs to Lovati, although it is known as the tomb of Antenor’s dog, as it bears the bas-relief representing a dog on his tomb.  Opposite the Piazza Antenor, take note of the 15th century Palazzo Sala and the Gothic Palazzo Romanin Jacur which carries an inscription saying that Dante hid there to escape arrest.

imageNearby in the Piazza dei Signori, is the Astrological Clock.  The original clock, built by Jacopo de’Dondi was very advanced and complex for its time and was destroyed either in 1390 or 1399.  A replica now presides over the square, however, studying the clock shows that the among the signs of the Zodiac, the sign of Libra is missing…the crab (Cancer) occupies a double space.  Legend has it that the builder omitted the Libra symbol intentionally due to not being paid adequately, however, another story tells that the original clock’s crab was also missing as a protest by Jacopo for a town suffering injustice from the Carraresi family.  Also notable with the Piazza dei Signori is the beautiful loggia, the Gran Guardia and close by, the Palazzo del Capitaniato, the residence of the Venetian governors.

Caffè Pedrocchi is also just around the corner (see my blog post “The Doorless Cafe”) and was built in 1831.  Called the “doorless cafe” because of its openness, it also earned the name because it was originally open 24 hours a day.  A very historical establishment, it is a great place to grab a bite to eat and a drink.

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imageAnother beautiful architectural specimen, the Palazzo della Ragione, located nearby between two grand squares (the Piazza Delle Erbe and the Piazza Delle Frutta) is known to have the largest roof unsupported by columns in Europe.  The Palazzo, dating back to 1172, stands upon open arches and the upper story is surrounded by an open loggia.  Beneath the great hall, there is a centuries-old market on most days.  The Palazzo can be visited daily except for Mondays.

imageWalking south through the city, you will find yourself at the Prato della Valle, the largest square in Europe (see my blog post “Yes, It’s Big”).  Created by Andrea Memmo in the 18th century, it is lined by 78 statues portraying famous citizens along a small canal with a beautiful green island center, I’Isola Memmia.  Many beautiful Italian buildings surround Il Prati, as it is locally known, such as the Palazzo Angeli and La Loggia Amulea

While visiting Il Prati, a bit of time should be taken the visit the Abbey of Santa Giustina and the adjacent Basilica.  One of the most important monasteries in the area in the 15th century it was eventually suppressed by Napoleon.  Reopened in 1919, the tombs of several saints are housed in the interior, including St. Justine, St. Prosdocimus, St. Maximus, St. Urius, St. Felicita, St. Julianus, as well as relics of the Apostle St. Matthias and the Evangelist St. Luke.

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There are many other things to visit in Padua, depending on one’s tastes and the amount of time you have to devote to the city…the fortified walls and gates of the city, Santa Sofia, Padova’s most ancient church, the church of San Gaetano, the Padua Synagogue, the buildings of Palazzo del Bo, the City Hall (Palazzo Moroni), the Castello, which the main tower was transformed into an astronomical observatory and the many bridges, Ponte San Lorenzo, a Roman bridge largely underground, along with the ancient Ponte Molino, Ponte Altinate, Ponte Corvo and Ponte S. Matteo.

Whatever you decide to see and do in Padova and however you decide to pronounce it, you will appreciate all that it has to offer and its uncrowded easygoing spirit.

Padua map

 

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Padova

  • http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/veneto/padua.html
  • Getting There:   http://www.trenitalia.com/  From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.  From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
  • Getting There:  Padua City Tram  http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf   One ride,  (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70,  Carnet of 9 tickets for €10,  Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00
  • Basilica di Sant’Antonio da Padova, http://www.santantonio.org/en/basilica Piazza del Santo, 11, 35123 Padova, Italy  Free admission. Weekdays, January 1-March 26, 0620-1845, March 27-October 29, 0620-1945, October 30-December 31, 0620-1845.  Saturdays and Sundays, 0620-1945
  • Scrovegni Chapel, http://www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it/index.php/en/   Address: Piazza Eremitani, 8, 35121 Padova PD, Italy  Admission:  Adults€13.  Hours:  0900-1900, daily.
  • Church of Eremetanihttp://www.guidepadova.it/en-GB/Monumenti/Vedi/the-eremitani’s-church  Address:  Piazza Eremitani, 9, 35129 Padova PD, Italy.  Free admission.  Weekdays, 0730-1230 and 1530-1900, Saturdays and Sundays, 0900-1230 and 1600-2000.
  • Tomb of Antenor,  Address:  Piazza Antenore 35121 Padova, Italy
  • Astrological Clock, http://padovacultura.padovanet.it/it/musei/astronomical-clock  Piazza dei Signori.  Free entry.  Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.  Maximum 10 persons. Visits start from Piazza Capitaniato 19.   Times: 10:00, 10:30, 11:00, 11:30
  • Caffe Pedrocchi, http://www.caffepedrocchi.it/   Address:  Via VIII Febbraio, 15, 35122 Padova,  Hours:  Bar, Sun-Wed, 0900-2100, Thurs-Sat, 0900-midnight, Historical salon upstairs, daily, 0930-1230 and 1530-2000
  • Palazzo della Ragione,  http://padovacultura.padovanet.it/it  Address:  Piazza delle Erbe, 35100 Padova PD, Italy.  Hours: 01Feb-31Oct, 0900-1900, 01Nov-31Jan, 0900-1800, Admission:  Adults, €6.00
  • Prato della Valle, http://www.padovanet.it/informazione/prato-della-valle#.VgQdS60VhBc  Address:  Via Prato della Valle, 35121 Padova PD, Italy
  • Abbey and Basilica of Santa Giustina, http://www.abbaziasantagiustina.org/  Address:  Via Giuseppe Ferrari, 2A, 35123 Padova PD, Italy  Hours:  Summer weekdays, 0700-1200 and 1500-2000, Weekends, 0630-1300 and 1500-2000.  Winter weekdays, 0800-1200 and 1500-2000, Weekends, 0800-1300 and 1500-2000.  Free admission.

A House of Saints

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When visiting Padua, most people make their way down to Prato della Valle, the largest square in Italy.  Presiding at the south end of the square is a church that cannot be overlooked, especially for the extremely devout…Basilica di Santa Giustina.

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Giustina (Justine), the patron saint of Padua, was a virgin of royal birth and a disciple of St. Peter the Apostle.  At the age of 16, Justine suffered martyrdom during the Christian persecutions of Diocletian.  Tortured and beheaded, her body was taken to Rome where it was interred on the estate of a noble lady named Rufina and later entombed in Constantine’s basilica.

Justine’s remains were eventually taken back to the site of her martyrdom.  The Abbey of St. Giustina was founded in the 5th century on her tomb and during the 15th century became one of the most important monasteries in the area until its suppression by Napoleon in 1810. During the 6th century the church was dedicated to St. Justine.

imageEveryone should realize by now that I love visiting churches in Europe for their historical, architectural and artistic importance.  This one did not impress me…at first.  Not as elaborate as the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, both on the inside and out, this basilica, built in the 6th century, however, is the final resting place for not one, but many saints.  As I made a decision to enter, I was not aware of this.

The exterior of St. Giustina is unfortunately not finished, as with most churches in Padua and when entering, the basilica seems quite barren besides the 26 massive columns that fill the space.  Much of the artwork and sculpture were removed by Napoleon and brought to France.  The side chapels, however, are interesting and richly decorated.  The altarpiece of the grand high main altar is impressive, painted by Paolo Veronese, and represents the “Martyrdom of St. Giustina”.

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imageWalking down the right aisle of the church, you will find the Chapel of St. Matthew.  Through this chapel you will reach the Corridor of the Martyrs…this is a part of the church that cannot be missed.

imageA small frescoed chamber houses the bones of early Christian martyrs and further down the corridor, you will see the iron cage with the remains of the wooden coffin of St. Luke.  At the end of the corridor, you will reach the grave chapel of St. Prosdocimus, which is also the oldest church in Padua.  In the small vestibule to the chapel, you will find the tomb of St. Giustina on the left-hand side.   St. Luke, the author of the Acts of the Apostles and the Gospel of Luke, is interred at the end of the left transept of the church.  Other saints housed in the basilica are St. Maximus, St. Urius, St. Felicita, St. Julian and relics of St. Matthias.

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The old choir, which is adjacent to the major corridor, can be visited only with special permission.

It is possible to also visit the monastery that belongs to the Benedictine order.  Tour guides will accompany you in the most ancient part of the first basilica, through the cloisters and the rooms that house the fragments of the second basilica.

At the bottom of the South transept in the Martyrs’ Hall, religious objects and books can be purchased in the gift shop.  One of the most interesting things that can also be purchased here is an ancient cure once prepared in the apothecary of the Monastery…the Santa Giustina oil, used for muscle and joint pain and massage.

A most holy place, Santa Giustina should not be omitted from your plans while in Padua.  While I had not researched this church, I only ventured in while I was walking through Prato della Valle.  Realizing what significant historical importance it has within Catholicism, I am most grateful that I did.

 

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Abby of Santa Giustina

  • http://www.abbaziasantagiustina.org/
  • Prato della Valle, 35100, Padua, Italy
  • Admission:  free
  • Hours:  Spring/Summer, weekdays, 0730-1200 and 1500-2000, weekends, 0630-1300 and 1500-2000.  Autumn/Winter, weekdays, 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, weekends, 0800-1300 and 1500-2000.
  • Getting There:  Tram-stop  Prato della Valle http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf   One ride,  (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70,  Carnet of 9 tickets for €10.00,  Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00