St. Augustine – Page 2 – Snapping The Globe

America’s Most Sacred Acre

When I am traveling, if there is a religious shrine, graveyard or church, I will find it.

It’s even easier if it’s across the street from my hotel!

When I arrived in St. Augustine, the weather was less than optimum. Foggy and rainy, it just wasn’t the way I wanted to start my trip. As the day wore on, however, there was some improvement.

As I walked out of my hotel, I could see the top of an extremely large cross amidst the fog in the distance; the Mission Nombre de Dios (Name of God) and the Shrine of Our Lady de La Leche. Though I really wanted to start my explorations of this historic mission, I decided to temporarily put it on hold, praying for a nicer day.

The next morning, it was still a bit foggy but much better than the previous day. Crossing San Marco Avenue, I entered the gates and headed to the far end of the property to where the immense cross soars over the waters of the Matanzas River. The Great Cross, a 208-foot-high structure constructed of stainless steel, was built in 1965 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the first parish Catholic Mass and is fronted by an 11-foot statue which depicts Father Francisco Lopez de Mendoza, the first parish priest of St. Augustine.

In 1565, General Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles was sent by Spain to drive out the French Huguenots and establish the oldest permanent European settlement in what is now the United States. Father Mendoza, the chaplain of Menendez’ ship, offered a Mass of Thanksgiving on September 8, 1565, the day the Spanish arrived, with a roughly constructed altar and observed by the native Timucuans. Following mass, Pedro Menendez hosted a feast for his companions and the natives, an act that many describe as being the first Thanksgiving, contrary to what we have been taught. Today, on the site of the original altar, you will spot a newer recreation.

Dating back to the establishment of our great nation, these grounds are often described as America’s Most Sacred Acre. The Shrine is the oldest Marian Shrine in the United States and was recently elevated to a National Shrine by the U.S. Conference of Catholic Bishops.

I moved slowly, relishing in the serenity of the area and walked the well-maintained paths and walkways of the mission grounds. Passing the modest cemetery, I made my way to the small chapel. A beautiful vine-covered, stone and masonry sanctuary, it was built in 1967 by St. Augustine Governor Hita Y Salazar and housed an exquisitely detailed carved statue of Mary nursing the baby Jesus. It was the first devotion to Mary in the United States and was brought from Spain in the early 1600s. This chapel was bombed by the Spanish troops in 1728, during a battle with British soldiers who were attempting the seizure of St. Augustine, rebuilt in 1875 and restored after an especially turbulent storm season in 1914.

Other items of interest are the gravesites of six of the Sisters of St. Joseph who came to St. Augustine to teach the liberated slaves, the Stations of the Cross, an unknown formation (most likely the base for a religious monument), a bell tower, and statues of St. Francis of Assisi and St. Joseph.

After my exploration of the grounds was complete, I headed across the bridge to the front of the property. Finding the museum still closed, I ventured into the larger shrine church. Housing a replica of the original statue, I found the church to be quaint, yet modern, with its interestingly arranged colorful stained-glass windows. In the front of the church, a small room, devoted to Our Lady of Fatima, offers a modest place of prayer.

Finally, I made my way back to the now open Gift Shop/Museum and began making my way through the museum. The woman working behind the desk came and joined me and gave me a brief overview of the items in the small gallery.

Items of interest include an interesting diorama of the celebration of the first mass, important documents including a letter written by Pedro Menendez de Aviles, dated October 15, 1565, liturgical vestments and a statue of St. Francis Borgia. The most important artifact, however, is the original outer coffin in which Pedro Menedez de Aviles was buried. The coffin, encased and protected by glass, was presented to the Mission by the city of Aviles, where the remains of Menendez are still interred.

If I had had more time, I would have liked to have returned for mass at noon, however, since there were so many other places to visit within the city, I had to be content to offer up some early prayers and continue on my way. Stepping out of the museum, I realized that the fog had burned off and the sun was now shining brightly. Yes, there were other things I needed to see that day, however, I took one last stroll across the mission’s lake for another glimpse at Father Mendoza and the Great Cross.

Truly one of the most historic and meaningful temples that I have ever visited in the United States and possibly the world, it is recommended that all visitors to St. Augustine take some time to visit this holy site.

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Shrine of Our Lady of La Leche and Mission Nombre de Dios

https://missionandshrine.org/
Address: 101 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1700, Sunday, 1200-1600. Mass Monday thru Saturday, 1200 and 1330.
Admission: Free, donation box available. Free parking.

The Old City Gates

Although visitors to St. Augustine today are free to drive through or walk around the oldest part of the city, it wasn’t always this way.

In the beginning, there was only one way in.

After a devastating attack by the British in 1702, the city of St. Augustine made the decision to fortify its outer rims. One hundred and fifty years old at the time, the city began constructing earthen walls from the Castillo to the San Sebastián river, completely surrounding the city. Several large redoubts were added and supplied with artillery and ammunition. Still not satisfied with their own safety, an additional wall, the Rosario Line, was added on the western part of town.

Although some deterioration has taken place over time, as you approach the North end of St. George Street, you can still spy the Santo Domingo redoubt and the earthen walls.

The most striking part of that approach, however, is the old city gates, still standing strong. Built of almost indestructible coquina, they once marked the only entrance into St. Augustine. Today, you can access the old city from many points, however, this rough and weathered entryway still welcomes visitors who come to shop, dine and see the old city, with a picturesque approach.

If ghost stories are of interest to you, one you might hear is that of Elizabeth, a young girl who succumbed to the one adversary that the city’s fortifications could not keep out…a murderer…yellow fever.

Elizabeth’s body was found abandoned at the very spot tourists today pose for selfies, the city gates.

As the deadly plague spread throughout the city, residents cowered while watching relatives and neighbors succumb in great numbers, fearing that this scourge would claim them as well. These bodies were removed from the city’s boundaries and buried in the Huguenot cemetery across the street from the city’s entry point. This Protestant burial ground, in use from 1821 until 1884, was where the unclaimed body of Elizabeth was taken and interred.

While during the day, wandering near the gates and the cemetery might seem harmless enough, you might think otherwise when the fog rolls in from the bay during the darkest hours of night.

Ghost tours, a popular attraction, sometimes lead their customers near these gates after dark, but beware.

Perhaps you will spot the clientele and their guide.

But if you see a lone visitor…one in a simple white dress…you might have to wonder if its Elizabeth trying to find her way back in.

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Old City Gates

https://www.exploresouthernhistory.com/staugustinegate.html
Address: St. George Street, Saint Augustine, Florida 32084
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The County Clink

In an old town, one expects to find old things.

An old tree, An old jail. An old store.

As I ventured north on San Marco Avenue in St. Augustine, after viewing the Old Senator, my intention had been to quickly check out the old jail site before heading to the historic downtown. What I found, however, was an attraction called Old Town which encompasses the Old Jail, the Oldest Museum Store and the Old Town Trolley depot.

Sensing that this was going to be a longer than anticipated visit, I headed over to the ticket booth to purchase admission for the attractions. With tickets in hand, not only for the jail and the store, but for the St. Augustine History Museum and the Old Town Trolley (for two days), I pondered what I would encounter.

Making my way to a marked area in front of the old jail building, I was intrigued by two “prisoners” who engaged those of us waiting. As they robbed us of information…where we were from…they also gave us an overview of what we could expect on our tour.

Bringing us back to the year 1891, we were versed on Henry Flagler, the founder of the Florida East Coast Railway (which ironically was built through convict leasing), who had just opened the Ponce de Leon Hotel. Although he desired a secure place for the criminals of the city, it was important to him that this building not detract from the majestic atmosphere of the city. A jailhouse, designed by P.J. Pauley Jail Company who built Alcatraz, was designed to appear as a Victorian house from the outside…the inside was a different matter. This jail was built away from the downtown area and served the city until 1953.

At the rear of the building, we first encountered the gallows, the menacing site of the hangings of numerous violent criminals. Entering the jailhouse, we experienced both women’s and men’s cells as well as the maximum security area. The jailhouse also encompasses the sheriff’s office and living quarters…a little too close for comfort (to the inmates) in my opinion!

While it was interesting to see the interior of this beautiful structure, what made the tour special was our guide Bobalew. His exuberant tales of life behind bars as well the inmates’ stories were intriguing and he was wonderful in character, truly one of the most wonderful tour guides I have ever encountered! After the tour, we spoke and I learned that being a “convict” is his retirement job. I don’t know what he did before retirement, however, I think that Bobalew finally found his calling!

After taking a peek at the historic Mary Peck House, adjacent to the jail, I headed over to the St. Augustine History Museum. While not an extensive space, it is tightly packed with a great number of artifacts and declares St. Augustine’s long and rich history.

Finishing up in the adjoining gift shop, I perused the large number of city specific souvenirs. Walking out with a beer koozie and a hat, I crossed the courtyard and took a seat, waiting for the next tour of the Old Store Museum to begin.

While I don’t normally like to be in the last tour group of the day, in this instance, the last tour was the one to aspire to. After greeting the wooden Indian at the door, the tour guide led me (and only me) through the old general store, staying in character and using her charm to sell me the goods that were once peddled here during its heydey…think coffee grinders, seeds, spices and fabrics. Dimly lit and filled to capacity, it was an excellent recreation where one can almost feel like they have been transported back to the turn of the century.

The Wiles Houses, dating back to 1899, were moved to Old Town from their current location in St. Augustine and connected. Though this was not the original general store, it is a recreation of what a general store looked like during the time and filled with a large collection of early American antiques salvaged from the Oldest Store attraction, once located on Artillery Street. While the front was filled with the most basic necessities, the rear building had a huge display of small machinery and had it not been the end of the day, I could have stayed and perused every nook and corner!

Finally, with attractions closing up for the day, I walked across the parking lot to the Hildreth House (1870) which houses The Spice and Tea Exchange and the 1910 Cracker House which is being restored as a historic house museum in which Cracker life in early Florida will be interpreted. Neither building was open, however, I was led to History Walk path, a boardwalk which chronicles St. Augustine’s settlement history through signage along the way. There was a convict train car on display as well as convict statues along the avenue. Displayed here to attract passersby attention, they are great for photo opportunities!

While I did not make it to the historic district on this afternoon, I was glad that I had stumbled upon the Old Town attraction. For first time visitors to St. Augustine, it is a great place to start your exploration of the old city’s history!

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Old Town

https://www.visitstaugustine.com/thing-to-do/old-jail
Address: 167 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine, Florida 32084
Hours: 0900-1630, daily. Tours start every 20 minutes.
Admission: Adults, $13.83, Children (ages 6-12), $7.44, Children (under 6 years), free. Free parking onsite.

The Oldest Resident

Florida is known for its large population of seniors. Not high schoolers mind you…

Senior citizens!

The sunny days and warm weather offer good health and vitality, so many opt to move to the golden state their during their “golden” years.

I would imagine that even with the most outstanding weather, most residents don’t make it past their 100th birthday, however, so if I told you that St. Augustine has a resident much older than that, you probably would not believe me, right?

Would you believe 600 years old?

In the parking lot of the Villa 1565 Hotel, stands St. Augustine’s oldest resident…the Old Senator. No government politician, this senator stands over 56 feet tall, has a girth of over 21 feet and could tell many stories about St. Augustine’s history and people.

While most people are aware of gigantic sequoias of California, some of the largest trees in the world, not all realize how large live oak trees can maturate…well, maybe us southerners do, as we have grown up with them towering over our yards. This one, however, is probably the most impressive I have even laid eyes on.

Crossing paths with this giant while returning from the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, I was awed by its enormous size. Its torso is enclosed by a small gate and a wooden frame has been constructed, allowing for pictures with the tree’s trunk. While it is impressive to stand near its base and think about how many arms’ lengths it would take to make it all the way around, I think that it is much more impressive to stand back, inside of the parking lot, and observe how far reaching this behemoth’s limbs stretch.

While it is within the confines of the Villa 1565 Hotel, you will only have to fight for observation rights with the occasional trolley from Old Town Trolley Tours making stop number 21.

Go pay your respects and listen closely when the wind causes its leaves to whisper. You just might learn something.

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The Old Senator

Address: Villa 1565 Hotel, 137 San Marco Avenue, St. Augustine, FL, 32084
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The Fountain of Youth

The oldest continuously inhabited European-establlished settlement in the contiguous United States…what a mouthful!

Do you happen to know what city this is?

St. Augustine!

Many years ago, I resided in the state of Florida. During that year-long stay, I spent a lot of time traveling abroad with my job, but strangely, I didn’t spend a lot of time checking out the state that was my home.

Maybe I just wasn’t as adventurous as I am today.

Maybe I just wasn’t informed.

Maybe I spent most of my time tanning at the pool and the beach or hanging at Disneyworld (yep…).

Had I known then what I know now, I would have spent more time exploring, much like the pioneers that landed on Florida’s shores hundreds of years before. Recently, I had read a bit about the city of St. Augustine and I was enthralled with its history and with the photos of its old town. It appeared to be so charming and a bit like Europe or the Caribbean, both of which I was missing, being unable to travel freely because of Covid.

Tired of being on lockdown at home and feeling the need to venture out to a state that offered fewer restrictions, I packed up and headed to St. Augustine to see if it was as true in life as it was depicted in print.

After arriving in Jacksonville and picking up my rental car, I made the hour-long drive south and checked into my hotel. There appeared to be so many things to do in this small city, I didn’t know where to commence.

I decided to begin where it all began.

Juan Ponce de Leon was a Spanish explorer and conquistador who led the first official European expedition to Florida. Born in Spain in 1474, he first arrived in the Americas with Christopher Columbus’ second expedition in 1493. After serving as a top military official in Hispaniola, he then led an expedition to Puerto Rico, a colony in which he served as the first governor. Under the advice of King Ferdinand, he led an expedition to La Florida and landed on the eastern coast of what is now the United States on the feast day of St. Augustine. The city served as the capital of Spanish Florida for over 200 years and was later settled by Pedro Menendez de Aviles.

Though idealized as a great explorer, people always associate Juan Ponce de Leon’s search with the Fountain of Youth, rather than settlement of new lands. This is a widely known story, however, it is one that historians call a myth. Today, the public’s fascination with staying young, leads those to have a bit of faith in the story.

While I wasn’t seeking youth during my visit, I was seeking adventure and education. Heading over to the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, I made my way through the entrance, handing my ticket over as I walked into the Spring House, a 60-year old coquina building, which houses the original spring recorded in a seventeenth century land grant, supposedly associated with Ponce de Leon. Grabbing a cup, I examined the exhibits showing Ponce de Leon’s interaction with Timucua Indians and filled my cup from the aquifer. Taking a sip, I was a bit disappointed. It was not as cold as I would have expected and the minerals gave the clear liquid a strange taste. Thinking I would stick with my bottled Dasani, I headed outside to see what else I could find.

Examining my map and activity schedule, I learned that many of the exhibits were offered at specified times. Since the next presentation at the nearby planetarium was about to begin, I decided that I would snag a seat and relax there for a few minutes. The presentation offered an explanation of how sailors of the past navigated the vast seas by the stars above them. It was actually more interesting that I had anticipated and I learned a great deal.

The next stop was the Discovery Globe Theater. Almost a full house, I sat in one of the few vacant seats at the front of the room and was not sure what I was there to witness. A short movie precluded the presentation and I was taken aback when the narrator said that we would be shocked as to how primitive it would be compared to technology of today…he wasn’t lying. The curtain was opened and there was a giant globe (hence the name)! Planet earth. As this giant 30-foot high globe was lighted, it illustrated the routes of the explorers to and from the New World, the lands of La Florida, the Universities that were established in the Americas and the settlements and cities that they founded. Yes, it was certainly nothing like today’s technology, however, back when this was first introduced, it presented to standing room only crowds. Ok…so I liked it a little bit. Actually, I liked it more than I will probably ever will admit. It was kind of like visiting Disneyworld’s Tomorrowland for the first time…you wait for a phenomenal show and it is more like a walk back in time, but a walk that fills you with sentimentality.

Finally, I made my way throughout the remainder of the park. There were exhibits detailing Timucua burials and a Timucua village, with it centerpiece being the Church of Nombre de Dios. This church is a recreation of the original that stood on this location in 1587, built with cypress and palm thatch. Living history interpreters are present in the village to answer questions and help you understand what day to day life was like in the village.

Walking along the pathways, I dodged a plethora of peacocks while admiring the lovely, well-manicured grounds, highlighted by tropical trees, plants and water features. The male peacocks strutted their stuff while the females hung back in the grassy areas, some perched on the antique firearms. Heading toward the back of the park, I took a stroll out on the Historic Landings Riverwalk, past the Peace Memorial and the Ponce de Leon statue and checked out the Spanish Lookout, arriving just in time to witness the shooting of the cannon.

Quite a crowd had gathered to observe the historical firearms presentation but it was the Spanish Lookout that I though to be more interesting. The original watchtower that stood in this location was significant in the settlement’s history as it was what was the undoing of St. Augustine in June of 1568. Because of a light in the watchtower, Sir Francis Drake, with two thousand men and forty-two ships, was guided toward shore. Had they not seen the light, they might have missed the town, however, they made their way inland, sacking, looting and burning the entire settlement and wooden fort. Today’s visitors can ascend the tower, affording themselves a bird’s eye view of the waterways upon which Sir Francis Drake menacingly made his way to St. Augustine.

With ringing ears from the cannon’s discharge, I resumed my walk along the pathways, paying heed to the framework reconstruction in the inner field. When complete, this project will give visitors the ability to experience the First Settlement as previously inhabited by Pedro Menendez de Aviles.

Other items of interest on the premises were the Chalupa of St. Augustine where the settlement’s boats were constructed and a blacksmith shop offering demonstrations on the creation of various tools used during the period.

While the park offers a wide array of experiences, it is not a large scale facility and easily navigated in a couple of hours. It is a great way to start your education and exploration of the historical city of St. Augustine, founded by Ponce de Leon and settled by Pedro Menendez de Aviles. While there are many things to see inside of the park, make sure to pay your respects to Menendez’s statue at the park’s entrance and make sure to not miss the oak tree “tunnel” that fronts the roadway to the park!

As I made my way out of the park and walked along under the canopy of oaks, I couldn’t wait to see what else there was to discover in this historical city!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park

https://www.fountainofyouthflorida.com/
Address: 11 Magnolia Avenue, St. Augustine, Florida 32084-2827
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: Adults, $18.00, Seniors (60 years +), $17.00, Children (6-12 years), $10.00, Children (under 5 years), free. Reduced rates for St. John’s County residents.