One of the most beautiful of the Greek Islands, it offers towering cliffs, lined with whitewashed villages, set amidst stunning azure waters. Having seen pictures over the years, I knew that if I had to select one Greek Island to visit, that would be it.
After picking up our rental car and making our way up the steep road to our hotel in Pyrgos, we unpacked, made a quick run to the grocery store and then stood on our patio, staring at the beautiful scenery on all sides of us. Now what?
We had three days to discover everything about this unique enclave.
My husband had spoken to the gentleman at the front desk and he had suggested heading to the north side of the island for some of the best views of the sunset. We needed to head out, it was already mid-afternoon!
Following the highway past Thera and Imerovigli and enjoying the views along the way, we finally arrived in Oia. Tour buses rolled past us and parking lots were filled to capacity. Large droves of people walked past us on the narrow roads. Finally, we found a parking spot along the roadway and walked up to the Lioyerma Lounge Cafe and Pool Bar to get a drink and our bearings.
Discovering that the view here was second to none and having had a long day of travel, we decided to remain here and enjoy some cold beers as the sun dropped lower towards the horizon.
While my husband and son enjoyed some traditional Greek appetizers, I decided to do some exploration of the area. Finding small walkways lined with colorful hyposkafa buildings, windmills, minimalist churches, sea captains’ houses, old wineries, hotels restaurants, shops and cafes, I was astounded. Everything was so picture-perfect, I felt as though I was walking through a postcard.
This was what we had come to see!
This…and a sunset.
Yes, the sun was inching closer to where the sea meets the sky, so I returned back to our table on the edge of the cliff.
The winds had increased and it was quite chilly as we toasted our good fortune to have made it to such a stunning location.
Eventually, as a cruise ship made its way out to sea, the sun dipped behind the waves, enveloping us in the gloaming.
One of the most astonishing sights I have ever laid my well-traveled eyes on.
I had always heard about the stunning Santorini sunsets.
Now, I understood.
Santorini sunsets were definitely made for proposals!
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Lioyerma Lounge Cafe and Pool Bar
Address: Oia 847 02, Greece
Hours: 1000-2200, daily
Admission: Drinks and food for purchase. To sit at tables near the edge, for excellent sunset viewing, minimum purchase required.
Although we were anxious to get to Santorini as soon as possible, we were also curious about Greece’s ferry system. So many times while in Athens for work, I desperately wanted to head to the Port of Piraeus to catch a ferry to one of the nearby islands.
I always chickened out.
I was not sure how the port was laid out, if it would be easy to find the correct ferry or even how to purchase a ticket.
This time, we realized that we needed to try something different. We’ve traveled by plane for so long, we felt as though we needed to figure out how to travel like the locals. The bonus would be the beautiful scenery along the way!
Once we decided that our trip to Santorini was going to be on the ferry…it was time to figure it all out!
Discovering that there was more than one website offering ferry tickets, including the ferry service’s own websites, it became a matter of choosing the one which offered the best price for the class of service. Opting for Business Class tickets, we were all set. I was finally getting to go to the Greek Islands!
Now…I needed to figure out how to get to the port.
A brief discussion with my Airbnb owner gave me the confidence to take the metro. He warned of the terrible traffic near the port near departure times and since we were near the Monastiraki metro station, he explained that it was easy to take the metro straight to the port.
He was right!
Up early, we purchased our metro tickets and waited for our departing train. Twenty minutes later, we (and a LOT of other people) were exiting that same train, headed to our respective ferries.
The port was busy with arriving cars and taxis and fellow travelers pulling and carrying suitcases. We had no idea which gate our ferry was departing from and it took a bit of walking before we discovered the board with the gate assignments.
In other countries, I have taken ferries on occasion…nothing, however, had prepared me for what we would find for our trip to Santorini. Approaching the gate area, we were fascinated…this was not a ferry! It was a cruise ship!
Entering from the rear, our tickets were checked and we were directed to place our luggage in the racks in the middle of the car parking area, something I was not comfortable with, knowing that the ferry made stops at other islands before Santorini. Just exactly who was monitoring the luggage?
After heading upstairs, we were directed to our large business class seats. Noting a luggage storage rack in the front of the cabin, I immediately headed back downstairs, collected our luggage and brought it back upstairs to our location.
Making myself comfortable…leg rest up…seat back…neck pillow in place…pashmina draped around my legs…I watched the port disappear into the distance.
As I was hypnotized by the rocking of the ferry, the rolling waves, and the passing landscapes, my eyes grew heavy.
Four more hours and we will have made it to Santorini. By ferry.
And yes, it wasn’t that hard!
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But…there was “one last thing” that I wanted to see on our way back to our hotel.
The Ancient Agora of Athens.
I had been here many years ago, but only remembered that it was during the winter and I was so cold that I cut our visit short. What was within the gates? I didn’t remember any of the major landmarks, only walking through some of the small ruins.
Having had such a long day, I think that if my husband and son had realized how much there was to do and see here, I don’t think they would have agreed to this “one last thing”. Nevertheless, our entry was free with the Combined Ticket we had purchased with our admission to the Acropolis, so I was determined that we would get our money’s worth!
The grand Stoa of Attalos, closest to the entry gate was where we decided to begin our exploration of the area. This column-fronted building is a remarkable example of Hellenistic architecture, fully restored from 1952-1956, and contains the Museum of the Ancient Agora.
The stoa, dating back to 150 BC, was built by Attalos II, the ruler of Pergamon, as a gift to the city of Athens for the education he received there. It was thought to have once operated as a commercial center with shops on each floor. Built of marble and limestone, it was much larger and elaborate than most of the buildings constructed in ancient Athens and exhibited different types of architectural orders. As we walked through the colonnades, on the main floor we noticed that the Doric order was used for the exterior and Ionic for the interior. Similarly, on the upper floor, the exterior was Ionic and the interior, Pergamene. Moving throughout the building, even with the intense heat of the day, the building was well lighted and ventilated through doorways and small windows.
The museum was especially interesting with it collections of clay, bronze and glass objects, coins, inscriptions from the 7th to the 5th century BC and pottery from the Byzantine period and Turkish conquest. Most captivating were the detailed sculptures depicting some of the Athenian citizens…so detailed in some cases that you almost expected movement. Also related in great detail, throughout the museum, is the history of the Agora area and how it developed over the ages.
Once our visit to the museum was complete, we moved out into the Ancient Agora, the area where Athenians would often gather to trade information and goods. There were many paths among the ruins and much to discover.
Making our way toward the north-west side of the property, we discovered the Temple of Hephaestus, one of the most well-preserved pieces of architecture in the city. Situated atop the Agoraios Kolonos hill, construction on the building began in 449 BC and took almost three decades to complete as attention to building the Parthenon took priority.
The temple, dedicated to Hephaestus, the ancient god of fire and Athena, goddess of pottery and crafts, had a variety of uses over the years, resulting in the buildings continual upkeep. It’s longest purpose, however, was serving as the Greek Orthodox church of Saint George Akamates from the 7th century until 1834. Shortly after the arrival of the first King of Greece, Otto I, it was ordered that the building be used as a museum. It remained in this capacity until 1934, when it was reverted to the status of ancient monument.
The building’s grounds are well kept and heavily planted with shrubs and a well-paved walkway around its perimeter. As you make your way around the building, be sure to take note of the eastern and western friezes, the grand Doric columns (6 on the east and west sides and 13 on the north and south sides) and the sculptures depicting the labors of Hercules and the Battle of Theseus with the Pallentides, the fifty children of Pallas and the Fall of Troy.
Heading back along the southern rim of the property, we discovered the Church of the Holy Apostles (also known as the Holy Apostles of Solaki). When excavations began on the Ancient Agora in 1931, there were many churches located in the area. All were removed except for this small, Byzantine church, which has been dated back to 1000 AD, one of the oldest in Athens. After extensive restorations, this little church is now one of the highlights of the Ancient Agora with its colorful frescoes and intricate stone work.
With the heat wearing us down, we headed toward the exit. Leaving my husband and son near the exit I made a quick detour, moving toward the Monument of the Eponymous Heroes. This marble podium previously displayed the bronze statues of the ten heroes of the tribes of Athens, Erechtheus, Aegeus, Pandion, Leos, Acamas, Oeneus, Cecrops II, Hippothoon and Aias. Once used as a pulpit where proposed legislation, decrees and announcements were announced, I must admit that I was a bit disheartened to find it in poor condition, only displaying a shell of its former grandeur.
As I spotted my husband and son waiting patiently for me under the shade of a large tree, I stopped quickly to inspect Odeon of Agrippa statues that remain as the only part of the concert hall that once stood in the center of the Ancient Agora. Built in 15 BC, it was a gift to the people of Athens from Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa (Roman statesman and general) and was able to seat crowds of 1,000. After architectural damage throughout the years, it was finally destroyed by the Herulians in 267 AD.
Thinking about he destruction of the Odeon of Agrippa, I thought about how many times the Agora was destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries. Abandoned and forgotten, it was finally brought to light when excavations began in 1931.
Learning so much more on this visit than on my previous, I was glad that I had dragged my husband and son here. It is strange to think that only eighty-eight years ago, the citizens of Athens did not know that this site would someday become a place for thousands of tourists to wander about, learning about the commerce of the ancient Athenians.
Though we were ready for a nap and a cold shower, I was glad that we had made the detour and that my family had agreed to my impulse.
Sometimes that “one last thing” is the thing you remember most.
Other notable sites within the Ancient Agora:
The Ruins of the Tholos
The Propylon to the Bouleuterion
The surviving torso of a statue of the Roman Emperor Hadrian
Ruins of the Metroon
Great drainage canal on the agora
The Altar of Zeus Agoraios
The ruins of the civic offices.
The Klepsydra (water clock used to time speeches).
Southeast Fountain House
Remains of the Triangular Shrine
Two noteworthy ancient streets, The Road to Pireas and the street of the marble workers.
The ruins of the state prison
The Dekasterion (court house)
The NE Bath
The Middle Stoa
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Hours: November to March, 0800-1500, April to October, 0800-2000, daily
Admission: Adult, €8.00, Reduced rate, €4.00, Children under 18 years, free. Combination ticket, includes admission to Acropolis, Temple of Zeus, Ancient Agora, Roman Agora, Hadrian’s Library, Keramikos Cemetery and Lyceum of Aristotle, €30.00
“Now what you worship as something unknown I am going to proclaim to you. The God who made the world and everything in it is the Lord of heaven and earth and does not live in temples built by hands.”
These words were spoken by the Apostle Paul during his sermon on Areopagus Hill in Athens. This sermon (Areopagus sermon, Acts 17:24) was responsible for the conversion of his first believers, Dionysios Areopagitus and a woman, Damari. After his conversion to Christianity, Dionysios was baptized with his family in 52 AD and became the first Bishop of Athens. Upon his death as a Christian martyr by burning, he was later venerated as a saint in the Catholic and Eastern Orthodox churches and became the Patron Saint of the city.
Such an important piece of biblical history, there are many who do not realize that the place that this sermon took place is located just below the Acropolis. Between the Acropolis and the Ancient Agora this hill is one that many, upon the descent from the Acropolis, head over to climb, because, well…they see everyone else doing it.
It does offer outstanding views of the city, the Ancient Agora and the Acropolis, but many do not realize its significance.
In Greek mythology, Areopagus Hill was the place where the council of gods held a trial for the god of war, Aris, who was accused of the murder of the son of Poseidon, Halirrhothios. In Greek history, it was the location of murder trials and also the location where Mycenaean graves were discovered. Religious buildings once stood on top of the hill but were eventually decimated by earthquakes.
Today, at any given time, you can spot large numbers of people shuffling around on the slippery apex, hoping to get the best views of the city and the best selfies with the Acropolis towering over them. The hill is easily accessible from steps carved into rocky hillside and from a metal staircase located on the left-hand side of the hill.
Words of warning…the steps are quite slippery, but its an amazing place to gather your where-abouts and admire the views.
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Coming off of our exploration of the Hill of the Muses or Philapappou Hill, we continued walking the paths of the city’s alluring green space, making our way from one hill to the next…the Pnyx.
The birthplace of democracy.
From 508 BC, Pnyx Hill was the meeting place of the Democratic Assembly. Citizens assembled here ten times a year to make political decisions and take note of the orators speeches, including those of Aristides, Demosthenes, Pericles and Themistocles.
As I walked from Philapappou Hill, I encountered a small rocky hill surrounded by parkland. A large flat platform of eroded stone was set to one side with steps carved into the slope. The podium, or Bema, offered a raised area for leaders to address the crowds who were seated in a semicircle, first on the ground and then later on wooden benches which were installed to accommodate the growing crowds.
The first question posed to the crowd was always an open invitation, “Tis agoreuein Bouletai?”
“Who wishes to speak to the assembly?”
As the acceptance of democracy spread, crowds grew from 5,000 to more than 13,000, finally outgrowing the Pnyx and moving to the Theater of Dionysus at the base of the Acropolis.
The Bema is cordoned off for protection, however, make sure to climb to the top area where you can find the former locations of the Sanctuary of Zeus Hypsistos, the Altar of Zeus Agoraios and Meton’s Solar Clock.
As we continued on toward the exit of the Pnyx, we located the retaining Wall of Pnyx built during the Hellenistic period and which offered protection to the area. Other items of interest, not to be missed, are the Sanctuary of Pan and the Fountain of Pnyx.
The Sanctuary of Pan was a religious shrine on the south slope. Not one to display monumental or architectural embellishments, it was a simple chamber which exhibited a relief, representing semi-God Pan, a naked Nymph and a dog. Outside of the doorway of the shrine, an ancient mosaic is protected by plexiglass.
Sanctuary of Pan
The Fountain of Pnyx is also located nearby, and dates back to the 6th century. This fountain is a rock-carved cistern which collected and stored water for the city of Athens. Though you are unable to view it up close, the chamber is covered with a mosaic floor.
Though we viewed both of these from outside the park’s gates, this seemed to offer the best viewing area.
Since the both hills, Philapappou and Pnyx, are connected, make sure to continue your walk to encounter all that both have to offer. You can even continue up to Nymph Hill which houses the National Observatory during the evening hours.
If time is not of the essence and you’ve seen Athen’s major sights, it is worth the time to take a leisurely walk and encounter many of Athens off-the-beaten-track bits of history.
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One of the most widely recognized classical Greek philosophers in history, he was also known as the founder of Western philosophy. It was his unique teachings and thoughts, however, that led to his demise. In 399 BC, Socrates went on trial and was found guilty of corruption and impiety. After being imprisoned, he was sentenced to death by poison.
Searching a map of Athens, I noticed on Philapappou Hill (also known as the Hill of the Muses), a landmark noting the location of the Prison of Socrates. Since I had never had the opportunity to walk to the top of this hill to inspect the monument to Philapappou (that I had seen from the nearby Acropolis) I decided that it would be a good destination for that day and being able to search out the location of this historical prison would be a bonus.
Heading up the pedestrian friendly Dionysiou Areopagitou street, I entered the park gates and headed up the marble paved pathways. Welcoming the shady pine-covered trails, I looked for signs leading to my destinations. There were none, however, finding the first item on my list was not all that difficult as it seemed that most other tourists were headed that way.
The Prison of Socrates was nothing more than a cave with iron bars…still, it was interesting to think that Socrates spent his last days here. Or did he?
Though this is a popular spot for tour guides to take tourists and prattle on and on about Socrates last days, it has been brought to light that these openings within the rock are probably no more than the remains of an ancient Mycenaean building. The real location of the philosopher’s prison was probably located near the Ancient Agora, at the foot of the Acropolis. Though no one is sure, it is interesting to visit this location and imagine poor Socrates passing the time behind the iron gates before his demise.
Continuing on, we followed the trail, climbing higher and higher up the steep rocky paths. As we came to a bend in our route, we moved out onto an opening and a rock outcropping. Here, we got our first views of the Acropolis from a different perspective. Having been to the Acropolis on multiple occasions, seen it from below in the Plaka and from afar from my hotel’s rooftop terrace, it was something to see from an adjacent hill. As we stared in wonder, we also noticed the amazing views to be gotten of Mount Lycabettus and the Saronic Gulf and I imagined that it would be an amazing location to take in the sunset.
Climbing higher, we finally reached the pinnacle of our ascent where the Monument to Philapappou, an ancient Greek mausoleum dedicated to Gaius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos (65-116 AD), rests. A prince from the Kingdom of Commagene, Philopappos was highly respected and one of the greatest benefactors of the city.
Upon his death, which caused great grief to not only his family, but also to the citizens of Athens, it was decided that a tomb would be erected on Muses Hill. Built on the same site where 6th century poet and mystical seer, Museaios was entombed, the two story marble structure is an elaborately carved structure on par with the Acropolis…its location showing his great status within the city.
Following the main path, past the Philapappou Monument, we found the Shrine of the Muses, cut into the rock face just below the top of the hill. This shrine was created in honor of the goddesses of creative inspiration. Philapappou Hill is also known as the Hill of the Muses for it being the home of the nine muses of Greek mythology.
Heading down the hill, we finally came to the Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris, a 15th century Byzantine church. By now, everyone should know how much I love churches and of course, I was thrilled to unexpectedly find this charming chapel during the midst of our exploration of Philapappou Hill. Though it offered a peaceful place to rest for a moment, I was frustrated to find the church locked. I was especially disappointed later when I learned that this church is decorated with beautiful frescoes. I also learned that its surname, “Loumbardiaris” (the Bomardier) was earned as it was saved by a miracle in 1658 when the Turkish commander of the Acropolis, Yusuf, was planning to bomb the church from the Propylaea. The following day, as they prepared to attack, a lightening strike hit the gunpowder magazine, causing an explosion which killed Yusuf and his entire family.
Since I was unable to examine the interior of this historical structure, I made myself content to walk around and survey its exterior architectural features. A spectacular find that I will certainly return to see again!
A good part of our morning had been fulfilled with the exploration of Philapappou Hill. There was much more as two nearby hills are connected to this beautiful green space within the city of Athens and we decided to continue our excursion.
What else would we find?
If you are in the area and find yourself with time before or after your visit to the Acropolis, make the short walk to Philapappou Hill and discover the treasures scattered around this beautiful promontory. Have a picnic, enjoy the views and maybe even the sunset!
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Filopappos Hill
Address: Thissio, Athens, 104 38 Athens, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
The Prison of Socrates
Address: Filapappou Hill, 43, Rovertou Galli 39, Athens 117 41
Athens is a place where historical landmarks are a dime a dozen.
The Acropolis, Temple of Zeus, Hadrian’s Arch (to name a few)…you can take you pick of so many to fill your time while visiting the ancient city.
Since I’ve been to most of these places, I was on the lookout for something different. Thinking back on my visit to the Keremeikos Ancient Cemetery, I realized that there had to be more modern cemeteries within the city, much like those of Paris (Pere Lachaise), Milan (Monumentale) and Buenos Aires (La Recoleta).
After conducting a bit of research, I discovered that the official cemetery of the City of Athens dates back to 1837. A prestigious burial place sought out by both Greeks and foreigners, it was the first to be built within the city’s limits and located not far from the Panathenaic Stadium.
Setting out in the warm, sunny afternoon, I made the journey quickly and soon found myself at the top end of Anapafseos Street.
Admittedly, the entrance to the cemetery was a bit disappointing as it is scaffolded, presently under construction. One inside, however, I was greeted immediately on my left with one of the cemetery’s three churches, the Church of Saint Theodores (the other two being Saint Lazarus and Saint Charles). Though the church was not open, I enjoyed its blue painted architecture and single slim belltower standing tall in the bright afternoon.
Making my way through the more elaborate tombs located in the forefront of the cemetery, I admired those of Heinrich Schliemann, German businessman and archaeological excavator of the cities of Troy, Mycenae and Tiryns, Ioannis Pesmazoglou, Greek banker, economist and politician and Georgios Averoff, businessman, philanthropist and one of the great national benefactors of Greece.
Tomb of Heinrich Schliemann
Tomb of Ioannis Pesmazoglou
Tomb of Georgios Averoff
Making the steep walk towards the rear of the cemetery, I was in search of something special…the tomb with the famous sculpture of a dead young girl called I Koimomeni (“The Sleeping Girl”), created by Yannoulis Chalepas. A bit of exploration was in order, as there are others that appeared to be very similar. I soon found the serene sculpture immortalized by sculptor Chalepas and wondered about her fate. It was later that I learned that the sleeping girl, Sophia Afentaki, was born in 1855 and died of tuberculosis at the age of 18 years.
“The Sleeping Girl”
Continuing my exploration, I was saddened by the overgrown condition of many parts of the cemetery and took extra time to pay respects to many of the graves in the area. Many of the graves and tombs were obviously quite expensive and many housed the remains of many members of Greek families and on the opposite end of the spectrum, there were also many grave sites that were quite modest.
Winding my way deeper and deeper into the cemeteries bounds, I discovered unique sculpture, touching mementos, fresh and dying flowers, distinctly crafted lanterns and fading photos. What I didn’t encounter, however, were other visitors. The cemetery was perfectly empty and quiet.
After a while, the peace and quiet became quite disconcerting. Realizing that I was probably a bit vulnerable, alone in a cemetery, even in the daylight, I decided to head back to the front of the graveyard, passing the burial areas reserved for Protestants and Jews.
The Cemetery of Athens was a unique experience, one that most tourists do not search out despite it’s historical and cultural significance. Though I did see a couple of other tourists in the beginning of my visit seeking out some of the famous grave sites, there were not many others that I ran across.
If it is historical or architectural significance that you seek or a desire to search out some of the famous grave sites, take a trip to the First Cemetery of Athens, a peaceful haven that will not disappoint.
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First Cemetery of Athens
Address: Logginou 3, Athina 116 36, Greece
Hours: 0800-2000, daily
Admission: free
Notable Burials within the First Cemetery of Athens:
Archbishops Christodoulos, Chrysostomos II, Seraphim and Dorotheus
Hero of Greek War of Independence, Odysseas Androutsos
Prime Ministers, Georgios Kafantaris, Andreas Papandreou, George Papandreou, Charilaos Trikoupis, Xenophon Zolotas
Politicians, Theodoros Kolokotronis, Alexandros Mavrokordatos, Melina Mercouri, Andreas Michalakopoulos, Grigoris Lambrakis, Nikolaos Bourandas (Police and Fire Service General), Yannis Makriyannis (and merchant, military officer author), Nikos Zachariadis (General Secretary of the Communist Party of Greece from 1931 to 1956)
Sculptor, Yannoulis Chalepas
Philanthropist and businessman, George Averoff
Painter, Demetrios Farmakopoulos
Archaeologist, Adolf Furtwangler
Filmmaker, Humphrey Jennings
Statesman, Dimitrios Kallergis
Conductor, Pianist and Composer, Dimitri Mitropoulos,
University of Athens’ Greatest Benefactor, Antonios Papadakis
Military Dictator during the Regime of the Colonels, Georgios Papadopoulos
Lawyer, Alexandros Papanastasiou
Director, Screenwriter and Lyricist,Alekos Sakellarios
Feminist, Kalliroi Parren
Amateur Archaeologist who excavated the site of Troy, Heinrich Schliemann
Having vacationed in many a seaside destination, I have seen plenty yachts of different sizes and value, but never had the privilege of seeing the opulence and splendor that exists on the interiors.
While in Edinburgh, I discovered that I could find out exactly how the Queen of England lives!
The Royal Yacht Britannia is the former royal yacht of Queen Elizabeth II, in service from 1954 until 1997 and traveling more than a million nautical miles around the globe. The now retired vessel is permanently moored in Leith, a few miles from Edinburgh’s city center and is one of the country’s most popular tourist attractions.
The journey to reach the Royal Britannia was a relatively easy one. There are many different bus lines that travel from Edinburgh to Leith and as luck would have it, there was a bus stop for one of them about a block and a half away from my hotel.
As I sat in the top section of the double decker bus, I watched the weather go from bad to worse as the grey skies opened up giving the city a good washing. Good thing I would be inside, right?
The bus ride was a quick and easy one with the last stop being at the Ocean Terminal Shopping Centre. Following the signs through the mall, it was easy to find the entrance to the museum that preceded the ship’s visit.
Making my way through the exhibition, it was interesting to experience the many facets that made the Britannia what it was at the time, including uniforms, awards and stories about the royal family and crew.
Finally, it was time to make our way to the ship itself at 3:01 in the afternoon.
Starting from the upper level, we crossed a gangway to the ship’s control center, exploring the space where the captain navigated the high seas. We were free to explore the outdoor area, however, my theory of being indoors was shot down as a nice walk around the upper deck was out of the question with the rainy weather.
Moving downward through the attached stairwells to each if the five levels, we were able to explore both the living quarters of the royal family, including the Queen’s Bedroom and the State Dining and Drawing Rooms which hosted grand receptions for kings, queens, presidents and prime ministers throughout the world, all appointed in the rich (and sometimes flowery) style that the Queen appreciates.
The Royal yacht crossed the globe many times with a total of 696 foreign visits, only of which 272 were in British waters. From sailing the newly opened Saint Lawrence Seaway (with a stop in Chicago), to evacuating refugees during the war in Aden, the Britannia sailed 1,087,623 miles during its time in service. The ship even carried the newly married Prince Charles and Princess Diana on their honeymoon, traveling from Gibraltar, Tunisia, Sardinia, Greece and Egypt.
The crew quarters were located in the lower reaches of the ship and were a stark contrast to the spaciousness enjoyed by visitors to the ship on the upper levels. There were, however, some areas outfitted a bit more elaborately for senior members of the crew.
The crew of Royal Yachtsmen consisted of volunteers from the general service of the Royal Navy with officers being appointed for up to two years. The volunteer yachtsmen could serve for one year and then be admitted to the “Permanent Royal Yacht Service” and serve until they chose to leave or were dismissed. With that being said, many served for twenty years for more.
When the Labour Party replaced the Conservative government in 1997, it was revealed that the Royal Yacht would be retired and no replacement built. The last foreign mission of the Britannia was to convey the last governor of Hong Kong and the Prince of Wales back to Britain after Hong Kong was handed back to the People’s Republic of China on July 1, 1997.
Six months later, the Britannia was decommissioned with most of the senior members of the Royal Family in attendance.
It was said the the Queen (normally stoic) may have shed a tear. Or two.
Since being docked at the Ocean Terminal, the yacht has received more than 300,000 visitors per year and also acts as an event venue, hosting parties and affairs for the rich and famous.
While visiting, make sure to check out the Queen’s Rolls-Royce Phantom V state car and the 1936 racing yacht, Bloodhound, once owned by the Queen and Prince Philip. Also, take a few moments to visit the Royal Deck Tea Room to enjoy a scone and tea. Though I am not a fan of tea, I was able to enjoy the hand-crafted beer, brewed specifically for the Royal Deck Tea Room.
But be sure to be there at 3:01.
It won’t be hard.
Why?
It’s always 3:01 on the ship’s clocks as this was the time that the Queen last disembarked.
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If you slice open a human body, what does it look like on the inside?
If you are a medical student, you probably have had the opportunity during a anatomy class to see the inner workings of the human body. Most people, however, have not.
Years ago, my husband and I visited the Bodies Exhibition at the Luxor Hotel and Casino. Thirteen preserved and dissected bodies and 260 organs gave us the opportunity to view the complexity of our own organs and systems. It was truly interesting to see our skeletal, muscular, respiratory and circulatory systems up close and this unique look at the human body had a lasting effect on how I viewed my health and well-being.
Recently, while staying at Bally’s, I noticed advertisements for REAL BODIES. What was the difference between this one and the exhibit still on display at the Luxor Hotel?
I found myself with a little time one afternoon and decided to check it out.
Real BODIES was much as I remembered the exhibit years earlier. This exhibit, however, is much larger, with twenty bodies and over 200 specimens. As I moved through the well-lit spaces, highlighting the fascinating specimens, I learned that this exhibit, also incorporates emotional and cultural narratives and artistic installations. The well-posed specimens were captivating, however, I was mesmerized by the variety of organs displayed and the faces detailing the circulatory systems.
Another favorite part of the display was the ossuary honoring the passage from life to death. The displays of bones and skulls brought back memories of visits to various ossuaries that I have visited over the years (Capuchin Crypt in Rome, Santuario di San Bernardino alle Ossa in Milan, Catacombs of Paris).
Though some might find it a bit disturbing, I also found the Beginnings part of the exhibit to be particularly intriguing with its look into the start of life. Embryos, placentas and vessels displaying specimens of unrealized pregnancies show fetal bone development as well as the development of the small bodies at various stages of propagation.
And if you think embryos are a little disturbing, you need to draw back the sheer curtain and take a look at the skin suit. Yes, one that Buffalo Bill from Silence of the Lambs would absolutely kill for!
In the end, I compared the two exhibitions in my mind and decided that while they were both interesting, REAL BODIES offered more information and at the same time was also a bit cheaper.
If anyone is trying to make the decision of which to visit, location may be a large part of your choice, however, you won’t be disappointed by either. And for those, faint of heart, who may be deterred by the thought of looking into a human body, believe me, its like no other spectacle that you have ever seen!
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For many years, stories about alien sightings and the Extra Terrestrial Highway has captivated my interest and I have always wondered just what was out there, besides Area 51, the most secretive and famous military bases in the world.
Certainly no parking meters…or even parking meteors!
On this particular trip to Las Vegas, I decided that taking the northern route to where Highway 93 intersects with Route 375 was going to be an adventure that I was going to seek out.
My son insisted that in the spirit of the trip, I download Joe Rogan’s podcast highlighting Bob Lazar’s recollections of his time working at Area 51. It was an interesting story to pass the monotony of the drive and before I realized it, I had reached the Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge, a beautiful oasis that I wasn’t expecting amidst the arid topography. With a modern Visitor Center explaining the refuge’s history, large lakes, abundance of wildlife and a variety of hiking trails, I decided that it would be a fantastic destination…on another trip.
Time to focus and keep my eye on the prize.
I continued onward on Highway 93, passing the communities of Alamo and Ash Springs and finally, encountered the first of my alien sightings at the Jerky Shop. So, they were aliens of the painted and plastic kind, but it was exciting nonetheless!
As I turned my car onto Route 375, I immediately pulled over. This was the start of the E.T. Highway, marked with an official sign.
Taking a selfie to mark the occasion, I jumped back into my car and just a ways up the road, encountered Fred, the 35-foot tall metal alien standing guard at the Alien Research Center. The “research center”, the unofficial gateway to Area 51, is actually a gift shop, specializing in t-shirts, tequila and an abundance of alien-themed gifts.
After speaking with the the lady at the gift shop, I learned that the next destination on the E.T. Highway would be the town of Rachel, approximately forty miles away. I cranked up my music, enjoying the desert scenery, the occasional alien graffiti and my favorite, the “Low-Flying Aircraft” signs. I am sure they were warning of small planes that patrol and travel the area, however, knowing where I was, it was very amusing!
As I drove along, I found myself scanning not only the sky, but each side road that disappeared into the desert. Could that be the way to Area 51?
Finally, I arrived in Rachel, the home of the Little A’Le’Inn and their assortment of alien-themed souvenirs and foodstuffs. I had read that I should stop in at the diner and have a piece of pie, but I was more curious to listen in on other’s conversations or glean something interesting from one of the employees. Enjoying my tasty pastry, I tuned in to the guys sitting a few seats down at the bar. Interested only in chatting about their bike trip, I then glanced over at the table of four British tourists. Too far away to hear their discussion, I instead turned to my phone to occupy my time.
What could I find on the internet about Area 51?
Maybe directions on how to get there?
Yeah, right.
Well, wouldn’t you know…as I read another’s blog about their trip to the area, this person gave specific instructions as to how to find the road that leads to the back gate of Area 51…and I had just passed it.
Did I have the guts to not only turn down that road, but to follow it to see if the back gates were actually there? As I made my way around the Little A’Le’Inn’s building, checking out their flying saucer and their welcoming “little green man”, I alternately decided to go and then, not go.
Pulling out of the parking lot, I headed back the way I had come on Route 375 and just a short ways down, I spotted the road that I had just read about. Turning in, I was re-reading the instructions as a car pulled alongside, startling me. A young couple rolled down their window and asked if I was going to travel the distance.
Still apprehensive, I heard a little voice telling me to seize the moment. I told the couple that if they led the way, I would follow.
Oh, please…don’t let me get arrested!
We headed down the road, dust flying, for approximately seven miles. This is when I knew that we were on the correct course as I had read that the entire road was ten miles with only the last three being paved. When we hit the pavement at mile eight, the anxiety really kicked in. I followed the couple the remaining distance until, on the horizon, I noticed tall light posts, a guard shack and fence stretched across the pavement. Thankfully, we pulled over, me behind them, where I snapped a quick photo, hoping no trained eyes were watching. Feeling a bit relieved when we turned around and headed back to Route 375, I pulled over before continuing my drive back to Vegas.
Giving a glance behind and even a glance upward.
No armed guards. No flying saucers. No little green men.
There have always been lots of unanswered questions surrounding this mysterious area in the Nevada desert. Seeing what I was led to believe are the back gates to Area 51 was at the same time, thrilling, yet left me with lots of questions.
If the government really didn’t want anyone to know where Area 51 is, why would they allow someone to post instructions on how to get there on the internet? Maybe it is a fake gate. But who knows? Maybe it is real.
I will never know for sure what I saw out in the desert near Rachel, but I do know that my entire experience along the E.T. Highway was something that I will never forget.
If someone asked me whether the long drive was worth it. Absolutely! Despite its intriguing quirkiness, the desert, itself, it is a place of mystery and beauty.
Who knows…maybe you’ll be the one to see more lights in the sky there than you can in Vegas!
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