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The Papal Basilica of St. Peter’s

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Ever see something many times, yet never tire of it?

This is how I feel about St. Peter’s Basilica.

It’s no secret that I love churches, but this one surpasses all.

Situated on Vatican Hill, St. Peter’s Basilica can be seen from many parts of Rome, beckoning visitors, that total in the millions every year, from all over the world. One of only four Major basilicas in the world (with the other three also in Rome…St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, Santa Maria Maggiore and St. John the Lateran), this basilica achieved its fame as it derives its name from the fact that it was built on the site where St. Peter was buried in 64 AD.

This UNESCO world heritage site has a capacity of over 60,000 people and covers an area of over 22,300 square meters, making it one of the world’s largest churches. Originally the site of the Circus of Nero and a cemetery, the original basilica was erected between the years of 319 and 349 AD under the orders of Emperor Constantine, the first Christian emperor of Rome. Falling into disrepair after standing for over 1,000 years, Pope Julius II (who also commissioned the Sistine Ceiling) made the decision to demolish and rebuild the structure.

The greatest architects of the Roman Renaissance and Baroque were consulted and utilized for this new basilica, including Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo, Donato, Giacomo della Porta and Maderno with Bramante’s original design being chosen in 1506. After 120 years, the basilica was completed and consecrated by Pope Urban VIII.

St. Peter’s Square, itself, is an architectural highlight, designed by Bernini in the seventeenth century, and is overlooked by the Loggia della Benedizione, the central balcony from where the pope delivers his Urbi et Orbi blessing at Christmas and Easter. It is here, on the right, where you join the queue to enter St. Peter’s basilica. The line moves quite quickly, however, the time seemed to drag as we stood in the heat of the August afternoon, making our way to the security screening area.

Finally, we entered the massive church and as always, I found myself unsure of where to turn first. There is so much to see on the main level of St. Peter’s including the Michelangelo’s Pieta, located to the right of the entrance, between the Holy Door and the altar of Saint Sebastian.. Carved from a single slab of marble, it was created by Michelangelo when he was only twenty-two years of age and is one of his first works of art. It is the only piece he ever created that was signed.

Take a look around on the floor nearby, and see if you can spot the red disk that marks that spot where Charlemagne and later Holy Roman Emperors were crowned by the pope.

Walking along the right and left naves, there were many side altars to admire, each more beautiful than the next, but it was what was at the high altar that commanded our attention. Here, Bernini’s famous baldachin is supported by four spiral columns and made with bronze from taken from the Pantheon. The baldechin stands over the altar which sits above the site of St. Peter’s grave. So holy is this site that the pope is the only priest allowed to serve at the altar.

Above us, the dome, also created by Michelangelo, was another of the basilica’s highlights. Soaring to a height of almost four hundred feet, this dome was based on Brunelleschi’s design for the Duomo in Florence. The cupola is supported by four stone piers names after the saints whose statues adorn the Bernini designed niches…Longinus, Helena, Veronica and Andrew. Having been up in the cupola before, I was anxious to see the remaining features before heading upwards.

Another of the basilica’s treasures is the 13th century bronze statue of St. Peter. Designed by Arnolfo di Cambio, what is immediately noticed is that statue’s right foot is extremely shiny…due to the centuries of caresses by visitors hoping to receive blessings by rubbing the extremity.

Heading into the Museo Storico Artistico, located in the left nave, we perused the multitude of sacred relics, including a jewel-studded cross gifted to the church by emperor Justinian II, a 6th century Crux Vaticana and a tabernacle by Donatello.

Finding our way to the Vatican Grottoes beneath the basilica, it is here that visitors can pay their respects to the tombs and sarcophagi of 91 popes that have served the Catholic church during its long history. You can also see the several large columns from the original 4th century basilica here, but my favorite part of being in this space is the tomb of the most beloved St. John Paul II, the second longest-serving pope in modern history who is credited in ending Communist rule. It is also interesting to note that in addition to the entombed popes, there are three women laid to rest here; Queen Christina of Sweden, Agnesina Colonna Caetani and Queen Charlotte of Cyprus.

Beneath this area, excavations have uncovered what is believed to be the tomb of St. Peter. This area, however, is accessible only to those escorted by a guide, booked well in advance.

Making our way back upstairs, we decided that it was time to head upstairs, to the dome and the cupola. The dome’s ticket entrance is located on the right of the basilica’s main portico and a major decision is to be made here when purchasing a ticket.

Walk up the 551 steps to the top (kudos to those who do) or take the lift halfway and climb the remaining 320 steps. Of course, we had had a long day, traveling from Naples and exploring the Vatican, so you probably guess what our decision was.

After exiting the lift, we walked around the first level, taking in the beautiful mosaics that line the walls making up the dome’s design and the birds’ eye view of the basilica below.

Walking out onto the roof of the basilica, we walked out to check out the statues of Jesus and the Apostles that can be seen on the roof of the basilica from the square. There is also a bathroom, a refreshment stand and a gift shop that you can mail your Vatican City postmarked postcards from.

Continuing onward and upward, it was here that the journey becomes a little more challenging. This second part requires the climbing of the remaining 320 steps to the top. There is a narrow, single-file, spiral staircase that requires you to lean in to accommodate the slanting of the roof and at the end, a corkscrew staircase. Though there are some windows along the way, this part definitely made me feel extremely claustrophobic and I could not wait to reach the top.

Once I did, however, the views of the city and St. Peter’s Square below were breathtaking!

Who could ever tire of this?

That’s why I keep coming back!

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St. Peter’s Basilica

  • http://www.vatican.va/various/basiliche/san_pietro/index_it.htm
  • Address: Piazza San Pietro, 00120 Città del Vaticano, Vatican City
  • Hours: October 1 until March 31, 0700-1830, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1900. Dome Access, October 1 until March 31, 0730-1700, April 1 until September 30, 0700-1800.
  • Admission: Basilica, free. Dome Access, including lift to terrace level and continue on foot (320 steps), € 10.00. Ascent on foot (551 steps), € 8.00. Reductions for schools are possible by presenting an attestation of the Institute with the list of participants, € 5.00
  • Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from St. Peter’s Basilica.

Over My Head

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are many unique highlights that visitors aspire to visit on a trip to the Rome.

There is one, however, that tops the list.

The Sistine Chapel.

Located in Vatican City, the smallest country in the world, the Vatican Museums receive more than six million visitors a year who come to see the seventeen museums that make up the complex. The Sistine Chapel, is the pièce de résistance.

Having been to the Vatican museums many years ago on a couple of occasions, I knew that in order to obtain entrance to the Sistine Chapel, there are many chambers and rooms to pass through and countless masterpieces to study before reaching the famed chapel.

Being the height of the summer season, the line snaked around the exterior of the building and the interior was overloaded, Walking slowly, shoulder to shoulder, we quickly realized that reaching the Sistine Chapel was going to take an extensive amount of time and much jockeying for position.

Passing through the various collections, the Gregorian Profane Museum, Ethnological Missionary Museum, Pinacoteca, Pio-Clementino Museum, Rafaello Rooms and the Chiaramonti Museum, we struggled with the heat and the incessant jostling from other people trying to see what each collection had to offer.

The one thing I realized was that I was enduring this to show my son the glorious treasure that awaited us deep in the museum. A glorious ceiling painted by Michaelangelo…and yet, as I looked here, above me, there were countless paintings over my head. Yes, many artworks on the walls, but each room’s ceilings were painted exquisitely, setting the stage for what was to come.

We admired what we could in each of the galleries, but I kept my head aimed high and marveled at what was above.

Finally, we spotted the signs directing us to the Sistine Chapel!

As we entered the chapel, I immediately snapped a picture of the ceiling and was reprimanded by one of the guards. Making our way into the throng of people passing along the outer wall, I realized that if we kept walking, we were going to leave the chapel without having had the time to inspect what had taken so long to reach. Pushing out of the moving queue, we made our way to the center of the room where there were many people standing.

Protected from guarded eyes by the people around me, I was able to capture a few photographs of the jewel of the Vatican before just taking a few moments to relish the fact that we were indeed in one of the most magnificent holy places and working chapels in the world.

The Sistine Chapel was erected between the years of 1473 and 1481 by architect Giovanni dei Dolci under the orders of Pope Sixtus IV. Although its exterior is nothing spectacular, the interior is what over 6 million visitors come to see annually. Its frescoes on the side walls were painted by Florentine Renaissance masters (1481-1483) and depict the lives of Christ and Moses and various popes. The lowest parts of the side walls are covered for ceremonial occasions, depicting events from the Gospels and the Acts of the Apostles and were designed by Raphael (1515-1519).

The most important part of the chapel are the reason all visitors leave with a crook in their necks…the frescoes by Michelangelo on the ceiling and on the west wall behind the altar. The entire collection of frescoes on the ceiling are collectively known as the Sistine Ceiling and were commissioned by Pope Julius II in 1508 depicting incidents and personages from the Old Testament. Many years later (1534-1541), Michaelangelo was commissioned again, by Pope Paul III, to paint the Last Judgment fresco on the west wall.

It is so spectacular, it is almost too much to take in and before long, we realized that we had outstayed our welcome. Reluctantly finding our way to the exit, we entered the Borgia apartments and continued our journey through the remaining parts of the museum.

To see everything that the Vatican Museums has to offer, it would take days. The Vatican Museums encompass the world’s largest private art collection (with its origins dating back to 1503) and most of what is in their possession, not on display. If you are interested in seeing as much as you can of the Vatican Museums, I would recommend starting your day early and having a plan, including a map with the items you are most interested in seeking out. Since on this day, we had hoped to see what we could of the museums, with the Sistine Chapel being our main focus, and St. Peter’s Basilica, we limited ourselves to what little we could achieve.

Me? Since I had been there before on a couple of occasions, I was content that I had seen something new. Never before had I realized what was over my head when I was so mesmerized by all that was around me. I understand that many people have that one opportunity to visit Rome and see what they can. Thankfully, I have been blessed to have had more than one chance.

If you ever find yourself in Rome for a second (or third) time, take the time to go back to the Vatican again and again. You never know what else you might find!

What you can expect to see in each of the museums:

  • Pio-Clementino Museum: Created by popes Clement XIV and Pius VI, this museum holds the most important Greek works in the Vatican.
  • Apartment of Pius V: The work of Pope Pius V, this museum contains Flemish tapestries from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, a collection of medieval ceramics and another of medieval miniature mosaics.
  • Gallery of the Chandeliers: Roman replicas of Greek originals and enormous chandeliers from the second century A.D. decorate this elegant gallery.
  • Ethnological Missionary Museum: This museum contains works of art from all the papal missions of the world, among which there are objects originating from Tibet, Indonesia, India, the Far East, Africa and America.
  • Gallery of Maps: Carried out between the years 1580 and 1585, the beautiful maps painted in fresco on the walls of this gallery represent the Italian regions and the possessions of the Church.
  • Historical Museum – Carriage Pavilion: In this section you will find coaches, saddles, cars, and Vatican City’s first locomotive.
  • Gallery of Tapestries: Exhibition of Flemish tapestries created between 1523 and 1534.
  • Pio-Christian Museum: The collection of Christian antiquities is composed of statues, sarcophagi and archaeological ruins from the sixth century.
  • Pinacoteca: The eighteen rooms in the Pinacoteca building contain pictorial works dating from the Middle Ages until 1800.
  • Sobieski Room and the Room of the Immaculate: In both rooms you will find paintings originating in the Italian “Ottocento”.
  • Egyptian Museum: Among other pieces acquired by the popes you can find some impressive Egyptian sculptures, besides the prized sarcophagi from the third century B.C. There are also some black basalt statues originating from the Villa Adriana, which are replicas of Egyptian models.
  • Etruscan museum: This part of the museum contains elements of ceramic, bronze and gold belonging to the Etruscan civilization.
  • Chiaramonti Museum: Created thanks to Pius VII Chiaramonti, this gallery holds thousands of sculptures including portraits of emperors, images of the gods and some funeral monuments.
  • Gregorian Profane Museum: Greek and Roman sculptures are exhibited here from the first to third centuries A.D.
  • Borgia Apartment: The apartments that belonged to the Pope Alexander VI Borgia today serve as exhibition rooms for the Collection of Modern Religious Art.
  • Raphael Rooms: Rafael and his assistants decorated the apartments of the Pope Julius II.
  • Sala Della Biga: Holding court in this space is a monumental marble figure of a chariot drawn by two horses carried out in the first century A.D.

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Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel

  • Vatican Official Website http://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/en.html
  • Sistine Chapel
  • http://www.museivaticani.va/content/museivaticani/it/collezioni/musei/cappella-sistina/storia-cappella-sistina.html
  • Address: 00120 Vatican City
  • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1800 (final entry, 1600). Every last Sunday of the month, 0900-1400 (final entry, 1230). Closed on Sundays (except the last Sunday of each month), 1 January, 11 February 19 March, 22 April, 1 May, 29 June, 14 and 15 August, 1 November, 25 and 26 December
  • Admission: No guide. Adults, 17.00€, Reduced 8.00€, Online booking fee, 4.00€. For audioguide, add additional 7.00€. Prices vary for guided tours, please consult Vatican Official website.
  • Getting There: Metro, Line A, Ottaviano stop and then a 10 minute walk. Bus lines 64, 62, 40 and 81 and Hop On/Hop Off buses drop off in Vatican City. Children under 10 travel free on all public transport. By car, the nearest parking facility is the underground five-story park, Terminal Gianicolo, a ten minute walk from Vatican City.

Important to note: Proper dress is required and visitors can be denied access even with a ticket. The following clothing items are not allowed in the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Gardens…mini skirts, shorts above the knee, sleeveless tops, lowcut clothing, hats. The Vatican’s dress code applies to both men and women.

Photos are not allowed in the Sistine Chapel.

Happy Valentine

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Most people visit the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin only to see the Mouth of Truth.

Even when approaching the church, visitors often forget to admire the medieval facade with its seven open arches, seven windows and slender Romanesque belltower (added in the 12th century), as they ponder the long line snaking out from the portico.

Should we wait? Or shouldn’t we?

Whether one decides to take their place in the interminable line to place their hand between the jaws of the stone face’s mouth or not, a short visit to the church should be in order.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin was founded during the sixth century on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to Hercules Invictus which was last rebuilt in the 2nd century BC.

With its name being derived from the Greek word, kosmidioin, meaning ornamented, it would be expected that the interior would be one decorated beautifully. Though that was once the case, the minor basilica’s only surviving enhancements are some floor mosaics, a bishop’s chair, a ceremonial canopy and the medieval choir enclosure.

The church’s main draw, however, is the glass shrine with the skull of St. Valentine, patron saint of love, located on the left side of the church. Once located in the lower level crypt, the remains of the martyr, who now lends his name to the holiday we celebrate on February 14 (the day of his death) can be admired on its own altar. The skull wears a wreath of flowers and has a stenciled inscription across the skull.

Though there are ten St. Valentine’s listed in the Roman Catholic register of saints, the one whose skull resides in Santa Maria in Cosmedin church is believed to be a holy priest who assisted St. Marius in giving aid to the martyrs persecuted under Claudius II. After being summoned by the Emperor to Rome, demanded to renounce his faith and refusing, he was beaten and beheaded.

The church is quite small but make sure not to miss the ancient Crypt of Adrian I, located under the presbytery. Created between the years of 772 and 795, it is a small space divided into three naves by six columns and reminiscent of a small basilica. There is a small altar at the far end and it is believed that the crypt once housed other relics (Cirilla, Adauctus, Valentino, Adriano, Amelia, Antonino, Clemenza, Generous, Ottavio, Patrick, Olympia and St. John Baptist de Rossi). According to legend, an ancient tunnel once connected the crypt to the catacombs on the Appian Way.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin is located adjacent to Circus Maximus and just across the river from the Trastevere, the funky bohemian area of Rome filled with restaurants, shops and of course, more churches.

Make sure to include it in your day of sightseeing…then you can say you had a Happy Valentine’s Day!

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Santa Maria in Cosmedin

To Tell The Truth

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

How do you know if someone is lying?

Well, you can strap them to a lie detector and administer the test.

If you happen to be in Rome, however, you can take them to the Mouth of Truth.

Located under the portico at the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, the carved marble disk, also known as the La Bocca della Verita, displays the face of a man.

And he bites...if you are a liar!

Dating back to around the 1st century CE, the carving is of a humanoid face with hollow holes for eyes and a gaping mouth. Though it is not sure why it was created, it has been theorized that the medallion acted as a manhole cover, a fountain decoration or maybe even a ceremonial well cover. Possibly a pagan god, no one is entirely sure whose features the face was modeled on.

This face, however, is thought to elicit the truth from those who dare to place their hand in its mouth, as it is either the truth or a bite.

Be prepared for a long wait, the line always extends outside of the church onto the sidewalk. If you really don’t want to wait, however, you can always just take a quick picture through the bars. If you do wait, however, be prepared to tell the truth if a question is asked of you!

So, did I get a question?

My son asked me if I was having fun.

The answer?

YES!

I was getting to share all of my favorite sites in Rome with him!

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Mouth of Truth

  • Address: Piazza della Bocca della Verità, 18, 00186 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours: 0930-1750, daily
  • Admission: free

The Monastery on the Hill

©2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Spying a nearby church tower as we stood atop the Castel Sant’Elmo, we decided that this would be our next destination. Little did I realize at the time that it was a monastery…one of my favorite places to visit!

The Certosa e Museo di San Martino is located a short distance from the Castel Sant’Elmo and is truly a treasure of Naples. Built in 1325 and then rebuilt in the 17th century, this large monastery complex was more than we ever imagined.

As we entered the courtyard, we discovered the church that we spied from Castel Sant’Elmo. This baroque sanctuary is a masterpiece decorated with a stunning marble floor, various paintings by Jusepe de Ribera, sculptures by Guiseppe Sanmartino and frescoes by Battistello Caracciolo. At the presbytery, there is an intricate marble lattice, decorated with precious stones and altar made of the same materials. Be sure to take a look up at the ceilings which are richly decorated with frescoes.

As we continued our exploration, we came to the peaceful Grand Cloister (Chiostro Grande) which contains a monk’s graveyard in one corner. This graveyard was quite fascinating with it skull topped enclosure and provided us with some great photo ops.

The Quarto del Priore, which is the apartment used for the reception of important guests, contains some relevant masterpieces including a Madonna col Bambino e San Giovannino by Pietro Bernini.

Surprisingly, we discovered that the monastery houses the Museo Nazional di San Martino which offers a look a many collections. One of my passions is collecting nativity scenes from around the world. Here, the museum showcases their extensive collection, some extremely rare, dating back to the 1800’s.

In another part of the monastery, there are many precious objects, including paintings and bronze sculptures by Neapolitan artists of the 19th century. My favorite part of the exhibit, however, was The Sezione Navale, or Maritime Museum, where many model ships and ship’s instruments were on display. The most appealing was the full-sized Great Barge, used by King Charles of Bourbon in the 1700’s. Other areas offer displays showcasing sculpture and epigraphy and a library on the second floor dedicated to the Prints and Drawings Collections with over 8,000 pieces.

A short walk through the garden was also in order, which offered an overlook to the city. It was a bit overgrown and unkempt leading us to return to the cloistered areas to enjoy the outdoors.

Though this was not the original monastery I had hoped to visit, that being Monastero di Santa Chiara, Certosa e Museo di San Martino was close by and surpassed my expectations.

If anyone is visiting Naples and making the ascent to the Castel Sant’Elmo, save time for a visit to this amazing monastery next door!

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Certosa e Museo di San Martino

  • http://www.polomusealecampania.beniculturali.it/index.php/certosa-e-museo
  • Address: Largo S. Martino, 5, 80129 Napoli NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0830-1830, Monday to Saturday. 0830-1600, Sunday. Closed Wednesday.
  • Admission: Full, 6,00€, Reduced, 3,00€
  • Getting There: Metro, Vanvitelli and then bus V1 to Piazzale San Martino. Bus: C28, C31, or C36 to Piazza Vanvitelli. Funicular: Centrale to Piazza Fuga or Montesanto to Morghen

The City of the Seven Castles

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In ancient times, Naples was called the “city of the seven castles” as it was the only city in the world that boasted seven castles within its boundaries. These castles, Castel dell’Ovo, Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino), Castel Sant’Elmo, Castel Capuano, Castello del Carmine, Castello di Nisida and Forte di Vigliena, provided a powerful defense to the Gulf of Naples from attacks by sea.

Three of these castles are located along the coastline in the touristic areas of Naples, near the Piazza del Plebiscito, making it an easy task to visit them in a single day.

Since the Castel Nuovo was located near our hotel (and made for an awesome view from our hotel window!) so we opted to begin our exploration there.

Castel Nuovo’s construction was initiated in 1279 by Carlo I D’Angio during the beginning of Naples’ reign as capital of the region. The modern fortress today appears much as it did upon its inception and was originally called Maschio Angioino. The castel acted as the royal residence and became a center of culture giving hospitality to artists, doctors, scholars and authors. When Alfonso I, of the Aragonese, succeeded the Anjevins, he continued to use the castle as a royal residence but ordered renovations, including the Triumphal Arch, celebrating his victorious entry into the city of Naples.

Upon entering, it was quite impressive to pass through this Triumphal Arch and admire the detailed craftsmanship of both it and the Bronze Gates, ordered by Ferdinand I of Aragon. Entering into the vast courtyard, we admired the high interior walls and proceeded to follow the self-guided tour.

We made our way through the Hall of the Barons, originally the throne room and location where the barons conspired against Ferrante I d’Aragona in 1487, the Palatine Chapel, dedicated to the Assunzione della Vergine and then the Chapel of the “Anime Purganti”, or Purgatory Chapel, which dates back to the 16th century. This small chapel is richly decorated but protected by a glass wall, which limited our proximity to the priceless artwork.

Hall of the Barons
Palatine Chapel
Palatine Chapel
Palatine Chapel
Purgatory Chapel

Climbing the stone stairs, we found ourselves at the scenic balcony giving us a beautiful view of the marina and the nearby buildings. The upper floors house exhibitions and cultural events, part of the Municipal Museum of Naples, which also has displays on several floors, including sculptures, paintings and objects from the medieval period to the 19th century. The first floor’s exhibits included works from photographers Fabio Donato and Luciano Ferrara. Most intriguing, however, was the glass floor displaying human remains that were excavated and preserved.

Though we were not able to visit the basement (only possible with a guide), a story I overheard from a tour guide detailed a “crocodile pit”. It was found that occasionally prisoners would disappear and were believed to have been snatched by a crocodile who would grab their leg and drag them out to sea. Speculation was that Queen Giovanna brought the creature to Naples from Egypt on the occasion of her wedding with Giacomo of Bourbon.

Walking along the coastline, passing the Fontana del Gigante (Fountain of the Giants), we made our way to the second fortress, Castel della’Ovo which stands on the islet of Megaride, lending to its untouchable, yet fairy-tale perception. No wonder many brides and grooms decide to take their wedding photos here!

The Castel’s name, truly unique, is one of Neapolitan legends. The castle was named for the egg that Latin poet Virgil apparently hid in a cage in the dungeons of the castle. This egg was kept hidden because the “fortune of the Sea Castle depended on it”.

As we walked along the causeway towards the castle, we noted the marina and the restaurants around the eastern wall, part of the small fishing village, Borgo Marinaro, established in the 19th century.

The castle sits on the site of a previous structure, built by the Normans in the 12th century. After Charles I of Anjou built the new castle and moved his court there, it became the seat of the Royal Chamber and of the State Treasury. Castel dell’Ovo also served as a prison, housing Empress Constance of the Holy Roman Empire (1191, later Queen of Sicily), King Conradin before his trial and execution in 1268 and Queen Joanna I of Naples before here assassination in 1381.

Inside the castle, there are several buildings used for exhibitions and other special events. Aside from a few statues and cannons, the castle’s main features are those that are architectural, however, there are some beautiful views of the city and coast to be had from the upper level.

Moving on, we headed through the Piazza del Plebiscito to the Augusteo subway station. Knowing it would be a difficult task to make it up the immense hill to Castel Sant’Elmo, we boarded the subway/funicular towards Piazza Fuga and then walked the remaining distance.

Dating back to 1275, this castle, which sits high above the city, was originally a church dedicated to St. Erasmus and was transformed into a royal residence. An earthquake, in 1456, caused the collapse of the towers and some of the walls. After interventions by the Aragonese, the castle was transformed into a defensive fortress. Almost a century later, construction commenced which committed the castle to its current configuration, a star-shaped fortress.

The castle, which sits high on a hill above the city, was used as a troop’s garrison, a military prison until the 1950’s and it now houses the Museo del Novecento, dedicated to 20th century Neapolitan art.

This castle was extremely interesting as it fits the image of what you would expect a castle to be, with its drawbridge and dark, interior passages. It is when you reach the upper level, while walking along the ramparts that you discover what makes it so special…the outstanding views of the city and the bay islands.

After admiring the impressive clock tower, we ventured into the Museum for a quick look where we discovered some impressive and sometimes strange pieces. Exiting the rear doors of the museum, the church was directly across the walkway and we stepped in to have a quick look at its simple interior.

Looking out once again at the city from our bird’s eye view, it was now easy to comprehend what a vast city Naples is. Spread out before us, we realized that there was so much we had not had time to see and the afternoon was drawing to a close. Spying a church’s facade next door, we decided that if we were going to see more, it had better close by.

Heading down through the castle, we made our way to the exterior, stopping on the drawbridge, to once again, admire the coat of arms of Charles V with the double-headed eagle at the entrance portal. The clear, blue sky made for a beautiful view as we walked away, through the gates and we marveled at how much history was to be found in Naples.

Only having had the time to discover three of Naples seven castles, we realized that we would have to make time on another trip to see the other four.

Three out of seven wasn’t too bad…right?

 Especially because these three were pretty spectacular!

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Castel Nuovo

Castel dell’Ovo

Castel Sant’Elmo

Suddenly, Sorrento!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Because we were so excited to experience Positano, it seemed that it took a lifetime to get there.

Because our feet hurt and we were hot and tired, it seemed like the journey back went wayyyy to quick!

Suddenly…we were back where we started, Sorrento!

Anxious to see this city, we jumped off the bus, despite our aching and sweaty body parts, and headed towards the center of town.

Discovering the Piazza Sant’Antonino, we admired the statue of Sant’Antonino Abate surrounded by palm trees and fronting Sorrento’s Town Hall. The city’s patron saint died in 626 AD and was credited with saving the life of a child swallowed by a whale and protecting Sorrento against plague and invasion. Every year on the anniversary of his death, February 14, a silver statue of Sant’Antonino is carried through the city’s streets accompanied by countless festivities. Throughout the year, respects can be paid to this important saint in the basilica dedicated to him, also in the piazza, across from his statue.

Of course we had to visit this important basilica as should anyone visiting Sorrento…just make sure not to pass it by. The city’s oldest church is quite plain from the outside and could be mistaken for another of the area’s buildings.

Erected in the 11th century on the site of an antique oratory, the basilica is rich in history, art and important artifacts. Upon entering the lobby, there are two whale ribs posted as a memento of the miracle credited to Sant’Antonino. The church’s interior exhibits rich details including columns taken from the numerous Roman country homes in the area, an 11th century gate supported by Corinthian capitals and valuable paintings by Giovanni Bernardi Lama and Giacomo Del Po, both dating back to the 1600s.

The sacristy exhibits two rare treasures, the fragments of an antique terracotta floor and a beautiful Neapolitan Christmas nativity from the 17th century.

The most interesting items in the church, however, reside in the crypt. The tomb of Sant’Antonino is located here as well as an immense collection of votive offerings donated by seamen who have escaped death on the waters where they travel. Though we were not quite sure what they were at first, we found them to be quite fascinating!

Heading toward the coast, we walked past restaurants, shops and colorful homes with the bayside park of Villa Communale in mind, to take in the sweeping views and have a refreshing drink along the waterfront.

Before we arrived, however, we encountered a wedding party emerging from the Chiostro e Chiesa di San Francesco (The San Francesco Cloister). Taking a peek inside the cloister, as the group dispersed, we discovered a peaceful garden, popular for weddings, art exhibits and classical concerts. The church, which we were unable to visit, due to the wedding, was built in the 14th century and is one of the oldest monuments in Sorrento.

Back to our original destination, we found a well manicured park with statues, paths and fountains. It is here that you can take the Sorrento Lift to access Sorrento’s beaches.

Sorrento’s beaches. Let me explain.

As we stood along the overlook, we glanced down at a maze of wharves, umbrellas and changing huts. Here, three beach clubs, Leonelli’s, Marameo and Peter’s, extend from a strip of volcanic sand offering a place for sunseekers to swim and relax. We were fascinated by this colorful concept and again, after enduring the searing August heat all day, wished that we could journey down the cliff to one of these beach clubs. With more to see and a dinner to enjoy, we sadly had to pass.

Continuing on our quest to see all that Sorrento had to offer, we left for the Sorrento Cathedral, which was scheduled to reopen after their afternoon siesta. Along the way, we passed the Sedil Dominova, located behind the main square, where local noblemen would congregate and discuss civil affairs. It is the last surviving ancient noble seat in the Campania region of Southern Italy and today, houses a working men’s club where locals meet to play cards.

Finally arriving at the Sorrento Cathedral, near the main square, we gazed upward at its beautiful, three-story clock tower made up of a base dating back to the Roman Empire. Entering this 11th century Roman Catholic cathedral (rebuilt in the Romanesque style in the 15th century), we gazed around in wonder at the beauty that surrounded us. The church, dedicated to St. James and St. Philip, is filled with beautiful inlaid wood, marble side altars dedicated to various saints, paintings by local Neapolitan artists and an 18th century Neapolitan nativity scene.

In the apse, there is a masterfully inlaid, 19th century choir and under the pulpit, a significant altarpiece by Silvestro Buono, dating back to 1573, known as La Vergine tra San Giovanni Battista e san Giovanni Evangelista (The Virgin Between St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist), among other treasures. Make sure to not miss the secondary entrance with its classic rectangular portal dating back to 1478, the 10th century marble slab with a depiction of a lioness near the entrance and the baptismal font in the first chapel on the right, where Italian writer Torquato Tasso was baptized.

Most important, however, is the 17th century altar dominated by the large wooden crucifix dating from the 15th century. As I walked down the aisle, it was quite captivating, reminding parishioners of the origins of their religious beliefs.

Leaving the cathedral, we realized that we could squeeze in one more Sorrento attraction…the Bastion of Parsano, which had just reopened for the beginning of its summer evening hours. Even before the birth of Christ, Sorrento had defensive walls built to protect it and access to the city was allowed through five entrance gates. A series of towers were built to defend the gates and continued to protect Sorrento during the Middle Ages. The walls were later rebuilt for better protection and visitors to Sorrento can see the remains below the street level at Porta Parsano Nuova, where they are open for public visitation. As we walked around the bastion, we admired the stonework and marveled at how long this line of defense had stood here. It is truly amazing and one of Sorrento’s treasures.

It was finally time to seek out a place to fill our stomachs as we had a train to catch for our return to Naples.

After finally arriving back in Naples and settling down to get some sleep on my cool, clean sheets, I was able to breath a sigh of contentment. We’d had a long day, but to endure the lack of sleep, long travel day and heat of the August day to see two of the amazing towns of the Amalfi Coast…it was all worth it!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Basilica of Sant’Antonino

Cloister of San Francesco

Villa Communale

Leonelli’s Beach Club

  • http://www.leonellisbeach.com/en/#Beach
  • Address: Spiaggia San Francesco, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0900-1900, April to October
  • Rental Rates: Around 12€ to rent a lounger and umbrella. Restaurant/snack bar available.

Marameo Beach Club

  • https://www.marameobeach.com/
  • Address: Spiaggia San Francesco, Via Marina Piccola, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0830-2400, April to October
  • Rental Rates: Around 12€ to rent a lounger and umbrella. Restaurant/snack bar available.

Peter’s Beach Club

  • https://www.petersbeachsorrento.com/
  • Address: Via S. Francesco, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0900-1700
  • Rental Rates: Around 12€ to rent a lounger and umbrella. Restaurant/snack bar available.

Sedil Dominova

  • Address: Via S. Cesareo, 70, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0900-2400

Sorrento Cathedral

  • http://www.cattedralesorrento.it/
  • Address: Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 46, 80067 Sorrento NA, Italy
  • Hours: 0830-1230 and 1630-2030. Mass schedule, Sunday and holidays, 0830, 1000, 1115 and 1800. Week days, 0830 and 1800.
  • Admission: free

Bastion of Parsano

Positively Positano!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Are there any movies that have a scene that just “sticks” with you?

I have always loved the movie Under the Tuscan Sun. One memorable scene is when the main character, Frances, goes to Positano to meet her amore Marcello.

I had never seen any place quite like the alluring town cascading down the mountainside toward the sea. I remember thinking, that I needed to see this Italian paradise for myself!

It had been sixteen years since I had seen that movie and I had still not made it to Positano. Since my son and I were staying in Naples, we decided that we would make the journey to Positano to fulfill my dream of visiting this beautiful town on the Amalfi Coast.

Taking the same Circumvesuviana train that we had taken a couple of days before to Pompeii, we continued on, past that stop, to Sorrento. Here, we purchased tickets for the City Sightseeing bus to Positano. The winding journey along the coast was picturesque, alternating between grassy fields, small towns, mountain passes and ocean views. Thirty-five minutes later, as we drove along a cliffside road, Positano suddenly came into view…and it was breathtaking!

As we were dropped off along the main road, we headed on foot toward the town’s center. It was hard to make headway on the narrow sidewalks clogged with throngs of tourists and because every few feet, we had to stop at the many spectacular overlooks.

There it was! The quaint and colorful Italian town of Positano…defying gravity and clinging to the cliffs of the Amalfi coast!

Scanning the map we had grabbed at the Sorrento train station, we decided to head toward the town’s center. Turning on to the pedestrian friendly Viale Passitea, we ducked into the small church on the corner. Finding it to be charming, yet unassuming, our visit was short as we were anxious to see what lay in store for us further down the steep path down to the coast.

The walkway, at times, was covered by beautiful trellises covered with bougainvillea, keeping us cooler during the heat of the day, and we passed an endless number of shops selling artwork, clothing, shoes and gifts. There were boutiques, art galleries, ceramic shops and many artists working on their craft. Moving with the crowds, it was impossible to take it all in!

Eventually, we found ourselves in the heart of Positano, the seafront, with its many restaurants lining the boardwalk and its golden beach filled with hundreds of sun seekers, hoping to bring home a souvenir tan.

The Church of Santa Maria Assunta, with its iconic multi-colored dome, lies parallel to the azur waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Marina Grande and from its piazza, set higher on the cliff, it is a popular spot to look out over the seaside.

Heading inside to snag a reprieve from the heat, we found the beauty of this church, dating back to the 10th century abbot it once was, to be quite spectacular.

Santa Maria Assunta was established when a Byzantine icon of the Blessed Virgin was brought to Positano by the order of the Benedictines. Part of the cargo of a sailing ship from the East, the icon was credited with a miracle. Stopped by a dead calm and unable to sail, the sailors heard a voice calling out, “Posa! Posa!” (“Put me down”). Interpreting the words to mean that that they were to head to shore, it was then that the ship was able to sail once again and headed to the small community that eventually gained it’s name, Positano, from the Virgin’s words. The Virgin was given to the residents who chose her as their patron and built a church in her honor.

After a falling into disrepair, restorations began in the late 1700’s and lasted five years when Archbishop Antonio Puoti crowned the Virgin’s icon with a golden crown. Today, the statue of the Madonna is heavily guarded in St. Stephen’s chapel but is displayed on the main altar (as it was was during our visit), on special religious occasions and carried in procession on the beach on August 15…disappointing that we would miss this important celebration a few days away.

Amidst the interior, which boasts a nave, two aisles and five arches, there are five chapels on each side. On the right, you can admire the chapels of St. Blaise, the Immaculate Conception, St. Anthony, and St. Anne followed by the Altar of the Circumcision on the right end. Displayed here is the rare painting, Circumcision by Fabrizio Santafede dating back to 1599.

“Circumcision” by Fabrizio Santafede

Above the high altar is the Byzantine icon of the Blessed Virgin. To the right, is the Chapel of St. Stephen, which in addition to usually housing the Madonna statue, also displays one of the most valuable works of art in the Amalfi Coast; the embossed silver reliquary bust of St. Vito, dating back to the 16th century. The chapel also contains relics of other martyrs.

The Chapel of St. Stephen
The Bust of St. Vitus

Make sure not to miss the two niches on each side of the apse which house Our Lady of Sorrows on the right and a valuable Christ at the column (1798) on the left, the chapel of the Blessed Sacrament to the left of the high altar and the altar of Our Lady of Mount Carmel which contains a beautiful painting from the Chartreuse of Serra San Bruno in Calabria. The chapels of the Crucifixion, the Annunciation, St. Vito and St. Nicholas of Bari are located along the left aisle.

When exiting the church, take a glance upwards at the majestic organ above the central door in the choir and check out the baptismal font in the right corner.

There are many treasures throughout this historic church and you should allow yourself enough time to wander freely. Even outside, you can take note of the belltower, which was built in 1707, and above the belltower door a medieval bas-relief portraying the seven fish and a wolf mermaid. Above the relief, a stone dating back to 1902, remembers Flavio Gioia of Positano, the inventor of the compass.

Heading toward the Spiaggia Grand (Big Beach), it was tempting to shed out outer layers for a quick, refreshing dip, however, we didn’t want to shell out money for umbrellas on the private side (left) for such a short time and the public side (right) was quite congested. Besides, if we got all wet and sandy, it would make the rest of our afternoon and evening, which was to include dinner in Sorrento, a bit uncomfortable.

So…we opted for gelato instead!

After our frosty treat, we glanced out at three of the thirty watchtowers that once protected the Amalfi coast from Saracen pirates. These towers were all within sight of each other and communication warning of danger was in the form of smoke signals.

We then headed west along the Via Positanesi D’America, a small lane that runs along the coast towards the Positano’s small beach, Fornillo, where the locals go to escape the tourist crowds. It was hot, but we were rewarded with beautiful views of the azur waters and a close-up view of the Torre Trasita (16th century), one of the historical watchtowers, located on the rocky cliff. Today, this tower operates as a guesthouse and rooms can be rented by the night for a unique experience on the Amalfi Coast.

Fornillo Beach
Fornillo Beach

Realizing that much of our day had flown by, it was time to head back to the bus stop and to Sorrento.

Though there are so many beautiful towns to explore past Positano (Praiano, Amalfi, Ravello), time was not on our side. If we wanted to discover Sorrento, it was time to say arrivederci to Positano.

Though Positano was positively stunning and we enjoyed our visit, I do have to admit that it was not quite as I envisioned because I had first experienced it from a cinematic point of view…no crowds, no soul-sucking summertime heat, no Marcello… Although a little disillusioned, I did have to stop and remind myself that we were visiting the Amalfi Coast during one of the most busy times of the year. Getting a taste of it made me realize what it could be at another time.

So, yes, it was not goodbye…it was definitely until I see Positano again!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

City Sightseeing Italy Coast to Coast Bus

  • https://www.city-sightseeing.it/en/amalfi-coast/
  • Pickup point Sorrento, Piazza di Curtis, behind the Circumvesuviana train station. Drop off in Positano is Spoda bus stop.
  • Fare: The 1st “Coast to Coast” line ticket is priced at €10.00 per person, one way. Return ticket can be purchased for €6.00 by showing the €10.00 ticket purchased on the same day. If you need to other trips on the same day the cost will always be €6.00.

Church of Santa Maria Assunta

Torre Trasita

Capri Is the Place to Be!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

During the height of the summer, Capri is the place to be…and we were there!

We were on one of the coolest islands in Italy and there was so much to explore and discover.

Despite being able to visit one of the main attractions on the island upon our arrival, it had eaten up a great portion of our precious time. Heading to the Funicular, we purchased tickets and waiting to board the railway up the mountainside to the Piazza Umberto I, in the center of the island.

Crowded and hot, we were still able to secure a spot near the window to watch the passing scenery. Exiting the tight cars, we stood along the gallery and gazed out at the island and the Marina Grande below.

Walking through the Piazza Umberto I, with its classic clock tower, we imagined that this was where we might spot Oprah or Brad Pitt that evening, as we had heard they were both moored off of the island. Entering the small alleyways, we passed Chiesa San Stefano, the prominent baroque Catholic church that houses Capri’s town hall in its old bishop quarters. The church was not open, so we continued on to the southern part of the island.

Passing the many high-end boutiques, shops, restaurants and homes, we eventually found ourselves at the Certosa di San Giacomo (St. James Charterhouse), the 14th century Carthusian monastery.

Built in 1371 by Giacomo Arcucci (who later became a monk of the order), on land donated by Queen Giovanna I of Angio, the Charterhouse of San Giacomo is the oldest historic building on the island of Capri.

Gaining our entrance at the office near the fortified tower, we made our way through the complex which is comprised of three blocks of buildings. The first building offered us a look at a unique art collection of the Diefenbach Museum (est. 1975) which included the works of German painter Karl Wilhelm Diefenbach.

Continuing through the complex, we discovered the Chiostro Piccolo (small cloister), which was added during the sixteenth century and the Chiostro Grande with its limestone pillars. It was here around the grand cloister that the monks cells were located as well as the Quarto del Priore used for temporary exhibitions.

Making our way through the gardens, we found them to be a bit overgrown, but the reward was at the cliffside where we had the most magnificent views of the coastline and the sea.

Here was Brad Pitt and Oprah’s yachts…or so we thought! Some of the biggest boats I had ever lain eyes on were docked in the azur waters that surrounded the island. So beautiful were the sights below us, we sat here in the sunshine, just enjoying the moment of the day!

Eventually, we made our way back toward the monastery and the large, open church where ancient frescoes can be seen on the walls and ceiling.

As our visit came to a close, we decided that we wanted to enjoy the waters up close that we had seen from above. Taking the funicular back to the Marina Grande, we walked to the small, rocky beach, Cala Grande.

Although there was so much more to see…Anacapri, Mount Solaro and its chairlift, Grotto Verde, Arco Naturale, Villas and countless overlooks…it was impossible to experience it all. It was nice to just give in to the island’s natural beauty and enjoy the remainder of the afternoon, soaking up the late afternoon sun.

Sometimes that’s what you have to do. Enjoy what you’ve been given and just “be”.

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Funicolare di Capri

St. James Charterhouse

The Isle of Capri

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When reading the tabloids, it is always fun to read about the awesome places that celebrities dock their yachts while on vacation!

While I would just love to have a small sailboat to dock in these locations, even for a day, I thought it would be fun to head out to one of those islands and see where those multi-million dollar yachts are anchored. Capri, located in the Tyrrhenian Sea has been a resort since the time of the Roman Republic and is a place where celebrity spotting becomes sport, especially in the square in the evenings as they leave their expensive floating homes for some ground time.

The ferry to Capri was located just down the block from our hotel and easy to get to, so we decided to make that one of our day’s destinations. Purchasing our tickets quickly, we were on the next departing ferry and forty-five minutes later pulling into Capri’s Marina Grande.

Our first views of Capri’s harbor were stunning! It would have been tempting to just take a seat along the waterfront to take in the scenery but we were on a mission and there was a lot to see before catching our departing ferry that evening.

One of the main attractions that we wanted to mark off of our list was the Blue Grotto (Grotto Azzurra), a cave-like cavity within the islands rocky parapets. Once inside the grotto, the sunlight entering the opening beneath the inlet passage give an intense azur color to the water. Spotting the ticket booth for the Blue Grotto boat tours, I knew that there were two ways to visit this primary attraction; bus and boat. Since the boats were departing here, it seemed like the logical choice to take the boat and after the boarding was complete, we headed out of the harbor and along the island’s northern coast.

The fifteen minute ride offered up beautiful views of the villas that top the high rocky cliffs that make up much of the island’s coastline. Finally spotting a cluster of boats, we realized that we had arrived at the Blue Grotto. Jockeying for position, we began to analyze the situation…there were a lot of boats, with a lot of people…waiting to board a small number of rowboats to gain entry into the cave.

Every time our captain moved our boat, we somehow thought we might be closer to our time to board one of the rowboats. Spying the buses dropping visitors at the top of the cliff and those visitors making their way down the wooden stairway, we began to notice that because of their proximity to the cave’s entrance and dedicated rowboats, their wait was quite short. Watching their quick movement and continually counting the boats around us, we realized that our stay here would be lengthy.

It was an extremely hot and sunny day and we had limited shade on our boat. We suddenly realized that although our boat ride to the Blue Grotto was cool and picturesque, maybe we should have taken the bus. After an hour and a half of tortuous waiting, the rowboats finally began to approach our boat. Deftly stepping into the tender, our boatman guided us over to the craft where the cave entrance admission was collected. After gathering our tickets, we headed toward the opening, our gondolier instructing us to lay down into the bottom of the boat. Pulling us through the tight opening with a guide rope, it took a few minutes for our eyes to adjust to the darkness all around us.

There were no fewer than ten other boats making their way around the small cave’s perimeter (25 meters wide and 60 meters long). As our boatman turned our craft towards the entrance, we gazed in awe at the fluorescent color of the water. An awesome sight! Our time was inside was short and before we knew it, we were laying down at the bottom of the boat to make our way outside, back to our waiting shuttle and to Marina Grande.

Checking our watches, we realized that much of our time on Capri had been devoted to that one activity. Grabbing a quick lunch, we then headed back to the ferry ticket booths. Thankfully, with the help of a kind ticket agent, we were able to switch our return tickets to Naples to ones leaving a couple of hours later…giving us some more precious time on the island.

Glad for our reprieve we decided not to waste any more time. Capri had so much more to see!

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Blue Grotto

  • https://www.excursionboatsorrento.com/en/everything-about-the-blue-grotto/?gclid=CjwKCAjwxt_tBRAXEiwAENY8hXwlP3bstmpEHSuPz0YOMQIlS9MBHN3l9GEYmGrT1ruIfxHPY2IeBBoC2ykQAvD_BwE
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily. The grotto is closed to visitors during rough seas or high winds, and it’s always closed on December 25th and January 1st.
  • Admission: Shared boat service, 10€ plus cave entrance (cash only) paid prior to entering, 4€. Tip is expected from the boatmen. Children under the age of 6, cave entrance, free. Citizens of European Union under the age of 18, cave entrance, free. Citizens of European Union between the ages of 18 and 25, 50% reduction on cave entrance.
  • Getting There: Private boat (boat rentals located near Marina Grande. Shared boat service. Bus, from Anacapri, stop located 50 meters from Piazza Vittoria. On foot from Anacapri, follow Viale T. de Tommaso, Via Pagliaro and Via Grotta Azzurra (3.5 km).