Uber: term with literal meaning of “above” in German (Urban Dictionary), being a superlative example of its kind or class (Merriam Webster)
Unless you speak German, the name Üetliberg may throw you for a loop (prounounced Oot-lee-berg). And unless you’ve been to Zurich, you may have never heard of the Swiss plateau mountain…or as some refer to it, “Zurich’s own little mountain”.
A few years ago, one of my crew members asked if we wanted to take the train to Üetliberg, do some hiking and have a picnic. Of course, being a beautiful warm day, we all decided that was a fantastic idea. Grabbing some goodies and drinks at the grocery store, we set off for our outdoor adventure.
Although not much hiking took place that day, we did find a great spot for our picnic and then finally went to the summit to admire to outstanding views of the city and Lake Zurich.
Last weekend, my oldest son, having just finished his first year of college, decided to accompany me to Zurich. He got to ride in style while I worked, but that was okay…I was excited that the flight was not very full and that we could spend some quality time together before he started his summer job.
Remembering my Üetliberg experience, I thought that it was a place he might enjoy, but after checking the forecast during the week, the weather did not look promising. When we landed, however, the skies were bright and sunny and the temperature hovered in the high 70s. A perfect day for Üetliberg!
Finding the ticket counter in the Hauptbahnhof, the main train station, was a little challenging, however, after asking around, tickets were soon in hand and we were on our way. A quick 20 minutes later, we were disembarking and heading toward the trail-head and the summit, some 2851 feet above sea level.
The paths were filled with hikers, mountain bikers, families and individuals enjoying the outdoor balmy temperatures and clear skies. The trails are not extremely steep and wide enough to accommodate a large number of visitors. Amusing lamp posts lines the way…though we never could figure out if they were some sort of deer or giraffe! As we finally reached the top, we were rewarded with outstanding panoramas of Zurich, Lake Zurich and the snow covered Alps.
At the top of Üetliberg presides Uto Kulm, a hotel and restaurant, an observation tower and nearby a TV tower. Surprisingly, there now resides a Christ the Redeemer Statue designed by a Lithuanian artist, though from news articles I’ve read, it is unclear how long the statue will remain in its current location. Still, it was fun to see and take a few photographs with especially since I have not yet been to Rio (on my bucket list!).
After gazing admiringly at the white-peaked Alps and then skipping the climb to the top of the observation tower, we decided to relax and have a couple of cool beverages. What more can you ask for…beer and beauty!
With so many trails available on this mountain and beyond, it was regrettable that we were unable to discover more of the natural exquisiteness of this area. With only 24 hours at our disposal, it was finally time to hike back down to the train station for our return to the city…for there was was lots more for my son and I to discover in Zurich! But if the outdoors is your thing…Üetliberg has much to offer, even in winter, when you can don your boots and bring your sled!
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Uetliberg
Getting there: From Zurich Hauptbahnhof (Zurich Main Station), take the S-Bahn Zurich service S10. Trains usually run every half hour during the weekdays and three times an hour on the weekends. Travel time is approximately 20 minutes.
Paris is a remarkable city. With an abundance of things to experience, it is a destination of which one never tires. Having not been in Paris for a couple of years, I was excited to see some areas that I have frequented on past visits and some sights that I had not yet had the pleasure.
Leaving the hotel, I decided to walk down the street to the Denfert-Rochambeau metro stop and inspect the line for the catacombs. A few years ago, I visited this eerie attraction, but had to wait in line for a couple of hours to enter. Finding the line wrapped around the circle to where I had joined last time and then way past, I decided that I was unwilling to devote that much time when there were so many other things to see, especially on a beautiful sunny day.
Jumping on the RER train at the adjacent metro/train station, I decided to head north to the Luxembourg stop. Arriving across from Luxembourg Gardens, I walked west in the 5th arrondisement toward my destination, The Pantheon.
Having been to the Pantheon in Rome, which this one was modeled after, I have also walked past this one in Paris’ Latin Quarter, many times. For some reason, however, I had never ventured inside this Parisian landmark, most likely in recent years because it was under renovation. Proceeding through the gates, toward the entrance, I made note of the inscription above, “Aux Grands Hommes La Patrie Reconnaissante” (“For great men the grateful Nation”). This sums up what the Pantheon is all about.
In 1744, an ill King Louis XV vowed that if he recovered, the church of the Abbey of St. Genevieve would be replaced with one worthy of the patron saint of Paris. Construction began in 1757, with Jacques-German Soufflot in charge of the design.
After its completion, (named Sainte-Genevieve Church during this time) The French Revolution was in full swing. Changing the church into a mausoleum, the Revolutionist government deemed it a place to bury exceptional Frenchmen who had sacrificed their lives for their country or who had done something great for France. Although it flipped back and forth between church and mausoleum during the next few years, it now remains the latter, entombing the likes of Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Marat, Louis Pasteur, Jean Moulin, Marie Curie, Emile Zola, Louis Braille and its architect, Soufflot on its lower level.
While purchasing my ticket, I was also given the option of taking the tour of the dome, which departs at predetermined times. Since the next tour was scheduled in 45 minutes, I decided that it would be worth the 2 euro to see the Pantheon in its entirety as well as the spectacular panoramic views of the city.
For those obsessed with architecture, walking into the Pantheon is breathtaking. The main dome and its oculus is an architectural wonder, still holding the record for the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome. The oculus and the entry door are the only sources of natural light and the oculus also serves as a cooling and ventilation method. The interior walls are decorated with paintings and mosaics of scenes from French history and offers many sculptures by Pierre-Jean David D’Angers of post-Revolutionary patriots.
Pantheon ceilingStatues by Pierre-Jean David D’Angers
Another important display within the Pantheon is Foucault’s Pendulum. In 1851, French physicist, Leon Foucault, designed a simple device as an experiment to demonstrate the rotation of the earth. The most famous of the Foucault Pendulums is on display here, suspended from the Pantheon’s dome and attracts a large crowd to watch the pendulum swing clockwise 11 degrees per hour, making the full circle in 32.7 hours.
Foucault’s Pendulum
Walking toward the rear of the Pantheon, I then headed down the steps toward the crypt. When entering the subterranean crypt, stunning frescoes depict scenes from the life of St. Genevieve. The area encompassing the many tombs is quite massive, taking you in three separate directions. The crypt area has a very modern feel and many displays offer history and information on the interred.
Stairs to cryptTomb of Felix EboueCrypt hallway
Finally heading upstairs, I proceeded to join the large number of other tourists in the cordoned-off area for the dome tour. Escorted by a multilingual tour guide up a multitude of stairs, we gathered for a quick stop on a mezzanine for a bird’s eye view of the Pantheon’s interior and closer inspection of the oculus. Climbing further still, we ascended onto an outside balcony enroute to the topmost area, a culmination of 276 steps. From here, we had awe-inspiring views of all of Paris, including notable landmarks, Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower and the Sacre Coeur. Surprisingly, much time is given for everyone to enjoy and revel in the scenery before being escorted back down to the interior, where more time can be devoted to discovering all that the Pantheon has to offer.
View from the mezzanine
Columns supporting upper domeView of Eiffel TowerView of Notre Dame
Now that renovation of the Pantheon is complete, a visit is necessary for those who have never been, for history and architecture lovers and those obsessed with seeing the city in its entirety from a raised level. There are many ways to see the city from above, but the 360 degree view offered by the Pantheon is simply stunning. Take your time to enjoy the interior as well as the exterior, especially noting the exoteric construction. Combine your visit with the Luxembourg gardens and a stroll thru the Latin Quarter and this will surely fill a day in the City of Light.
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The Pantheon
http://www.pantheonparis.com/
Address: Latin Quarter, Place du Pantheon, Rue Soufflot, 75005 ParisMetro: Cardinal Lemoine
Hours: April 1 thru September 30, daily, 10:00-18:30, October 1 thru March 31, 10:00-18:00, closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.
Admission: 8.50€, general admission + 2€ for dome tour
Getting There: RER station-Luxembourg, Metro station-Cardinal Lemoine, Bus: 84, 89
Many times I have visited Montmartre in Paris. On this particular sojourn, wandering through the winding streets up and around the hill, I learned something interesting. Van Gogh not only lived in Paris…he lived right there in Montmartre.
Walking on Rue Lepic, eating my gelato and searching for the Passer Through Walls sculpture, I happened to notice a sign on a building with a bright blue door. The sign, written in French, stated “In this house, Vincent Van Gogh, lived with his brother Theo from 1886 to 1888.”
At the end of February 1886, Vincent Van Gogh could no longer pay his rent in Antwerp. Departing Belgium for Paris, he headed to the French capital, which was the center of the art world at the time, neglecting to inform his brother of his impending arrival. His brother, Theo, an art dealer, had little choice but to take him in, forcing them to share Theo’s small apartment at 25 Rue Victor Massé. A few months later, the brothers moved nearby to 54 Rue Lepic on the Butte Montmartre. Neighbors included Edgar Degas who lived at 50 Rue Lepic and Toulouse-Lautrec who lived around the corner.
Montmartre was a popular place for artists as it was relatively cheap and there were many “open studios” where artists could learn and work.
Van Gogh’s time spent in Paris was a very crucial part of his career. He abandoned the the dark Dutch and Belgian tones and adopted colorful, luminous hues as he experimented with new styles like Impressionism.
After two years, Van Gogh tired of the hustle and bustle of Paris, moved out of the apartment on Rue Lepic and headed for the southern part of the country. Arles, France was where he made his home and was what inspired him to paint in the way most people think of him today…sunflowers, starry nights, night cafes…
I wonder who lives at 54 Rue Lepic now?
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Van Gogh’s Apartment
Getting there: Take metro, line 12 (green) to Abbesses stop. Walk west on Rue de Abbesses until fork in the road. Take Rue Lepic (at fork) to the right. 54 Lepic is a short walk on the right.
For art lovers, one of the best places to be in the world is in Paris. The beauty of the city has inspired artists of every type for centuries.
Many people associate the area of Paris, Montmartre, with the artists who paint and display their works there, but I discovered another artist’s work in Montmartre that I certainly had to track down…the “ Passer Through Walls” or Le Passe-Muraille.
Situated in Place Marcel Aymé, just off of Rue Norvins, this statue is one of the most interesting that I have ever encountered, not only for its uniqueness, but for the story behind it. The bronze patina sculpture by Jean Marais is of a man that appears to be walking out from the wall in this small square. Marais, also an actor, created this sculpture in 1989 to pay tribute to Marcel Aymé, a popular French novelist, screenwriter and playwright, who created the character of Mr. Dutilleul, a ministry department clerk who discovers that he has the gift of walking through sold walls. After enduring the humiliation that his colleagues and superiors subject him to at work, Dutilleul uses his talent to avenge himself. Using and abusing his powers, one day they abandon him… just as he walks thru a wall, leaving half of his body trapped in the stone.
Marcel Aymé, buried in the nearby cemetery St. Vincent, spent most of his life in Rue Norvins and set many of his novels in Montmartre. His publication has inspired many cinematic adaptations, such as the French comedy farce film known as Mr. Peek-a-Boo, by Jean Boyer and the 1959 German film, The Man Who Walked Through the Wall, by Ladislao Vajda.
The statue emerging from the wall is very engaging and its left hand is shiny from all of the tourists who come to help the poor man. His head, right arm, left leg and left hand come forth from the wall. Legend has it that late at night many a passerby hear a muffled voice, which is believed to be Dutilleul, calling out from the wall and on some winter nights, the painter Gen Paul serenades the poor prisoner with a song on his guitar. Nearby on the wall, someone, (who’s maybe been to Amsterdam and visited the Bronze Breast?) has placed a breast and buttocks on the wall near Mr. Dutilleul. Who knows… maybe it’s to give the poor trapped man company.
Though off the beaten track, walking the winding streets through the lesser known parts of Montmartre, searching for Le Passe-Muraille, makes for a nice departure from the busy crowded areas such as Place du Tertre and the Sacre Coeur. Be on the lookout for Le Moulin de la Galette, a restaurant located about ½ a block away, located in a windmill. Even if you do not dine here, it’s certainly worth a short stop for a picture!
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Le Passer Muraille
Getting there: Take the metro, line 12 (green) to Abbesses station. It is a short walk to the north from there, located on the corner of Rue Norvins and Rue Girardons.
One of the areas that I absolutely love in Paris, is Montmartre.
Standing at the foot of the 270 stairs which lead to the summit of the hill of Montmartre, the Sacre Coeur presiding at the top always takes my breath away. Much fun can be had browsing the many souvenir shops, stopping for crepes along the way and many a cocktail hour or dinner can be whiled away in the legions of restaurants and bars.
Sacre Coeur
My favorite part of Montmartre, however, is Place du Tertre. One of the most visited areas in Paris, it is known for the artists painting and exhibiting their works as well as the area where artistic legends once lived and worked; Van Gogh, Picasso, Modigliano. There are many portraitists and caricaturists, however, there are also artists working in a variety of mediums, including pen and ink, oils and watercolors. Quite a few paintings purchased here grace my walls and a couple of crazy stories remain in my memory.
Years ago, while browsing the myriad of paintings in the square, I came across an artist selling watercolors depicting Parisian scenes. Not usually a fan of watercolors, these, however, caught my eye for the deep, bright hues and the modern feel. Despite the price, I decided that I absolutely loved them and had to have them. After much debate, I settled on two compositions. The artist accompanied me to pay for the purchase with my credit card, only I was shocked to hear that my credit card was declined! Knowing that there should not have been a problem with my card, I reluctantly pulled out another and completed the purchase.
After arriving home, I stealthily crept upstairs and stashed the duo in my art folder in the back of a closet until a time when I could frame and display them. Not wanting my husband to question me about how many euro I had spent, I planned to pop them out at a later date. At dinner that night, my husband casually asked, “So what did you buy for $275 in Paris this weekend?” Shocked into speechlessness, I could not fathom how my husband would have known that I bought anything much less the exact price! It seems, however, that my husband was doing some grocery shopping at Walmart at the exact same time that I was trying to complete my artistic purchase. When the attempt to put my purchase through occurred, his purchase at Walmart had just been completed. Our credit card’s trusty fraud department promptly called him to inquire about my purchase and informed him of the exact amount. So much for keeping my purchase a secret! The paintings, however, now secure the perfect spot on my living room wall and every time I glance at them I chuckle and think about how I was BUSTED!
On another trip, a few years later, I discovered some unique oil paintings of female characters that I knew would look amazing in my dining room. After purchasing and hauling them back in my suitcase, they have now graced my walls for many years.
When my middle son turned thirteen, we visited Paris for his birthday. While walking through Place du Tertre, we stopped to admire an artist’s work. Deciding to purchase a couple of the pieces, I was chatting with the gentleman and discovered that the paintings were actually his wife’s. Glancing to the right, as we spoke, the works there caught my eye and stunned me into total silence. They looked like the same type of paintings that hang on my dining room walls. “Ian”, I said, regaining my voice and gesturing toward the canvases, “Look at these. Where have you seen these before?” It took a few minutes, but then I saw his face light up when he realized what I was talking about. The artist was not quite comprehending what was going on, however, when we explained to him that three of his paintings hang in our home, he was thrilled to death!
The third and final memory that I have of Place du Tertre still makes Ian and I laugh to this day. After purchasing the “wife’s” paintings, we were walking around the square. This artist popped up in front of us, looking curiously at Ian. In a sing-song French-accented voice, he said, “I want to paint your baby face!” Ian thought it was extremely funny, however we politely declined. The artist proceeded to follow us around, exclaiming over and over again, “I want to paint your baby face!” Deciding that it was time to go, we left Montmartre to head over our next destination, the Arc de Triomphe. Later that evening, we decided to head back to Montmartre to have dinner. As we were walking on the cobblestone streets near the Sacre Coeur, a car turned the corner and began driving toward us. As the car passed us, we heard the same sing-song voice coming from the open window, “I want to paint your baby face!” Needless to say, the stalker painter had found us again!
Ooh la la! Would you not want to paint this “baby face”?
Although Place du Tertre has changed over the years, becoming more crowded with tourists, it is still a place that I love to check out for new pieces to adorn my home. A new painting followed by a crepe and Mass on the weekends…it’s all there in Montmartre.
My WatercolorsOne of the “wife’s” paintings that hang in my dining room.
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Getting to Montmartre
Metro: Abbesses Station (line 12). Walk east on Rue Yvonne le Tac until Rue Tardieu. You will be at the very foot of Montmartre hill.
Metro: Anvers Station (line 2). From the metro station, walk along Rue Steinkerque towards the Sacre Coeur. You can climb the stairs or take the funicular to the top.
Metro: Blanche Station or Pigalle (line 2). Check out the Moulin Rouge as you exit the station and walk north on Rue Lepic (Blanche) or Rue Houdon (Pigalle).
Metro: Lamarck Caulaincourt Station (the other side of the Montmartre Hill) (line 12). A walk up the hill will take you near the Musee de Montmartre.
While on Roof Terrace at Casa Milà in Barcelona, we spied what appeared to be a lovely rooftop bar further down Passeig de Gràcia. After we departed La Pedrera, we headed down the street, entered the lobby and ascended the elevator in the Hotel Condes de Barcelona.
Condes de Barcelona HotelView of hotel atrium from elevator
Entering Alaire Terrace Bar, we decided to sit outside to admire the astounding views of the immediate and surrounding areas of Barcelona. Down the street, there was Casa Milà and up another, Sagrada Familia.
View of Casa Milà down Passeig de GràciaSagrada Familia
A very nice drink menu offered cocktails, wines, champagne and beer. Prices were a little higher than in other places, but that was to be expected, as with all nice rooftop bars in good locations. A light tapas and food menu was also presented.
The rooftop atmosphere was energetic, yet relaxing, with many seating options. The service was very good and my drink option, beer, was very cold and tasty.
Since the afternoon was dwindling and the wind had picked up a bit, we decided to move indoors to enjoy our second drink, which was also a nice space with a large glass wall looking out onto the terrace.
Indoor seating
All in all, our experience at Alaire was a very good one and I would recommend traveling up to the top of the Condes de Barcelona hotel if you are in the area. Enjoy a drink, enjoy an appetizer and enjoy the view!
Alaire Terrace Bar
Address: C/ Passeig de Gràcia, 73 8a Planta 08008 Barcelona
If you love both architecture and Barcelona, you can’t help but think of Antoni Gaudi the Spanish Catalan architect, whose work was influenced by the passions in his life, mainly architecture, nature and religion. When in Barcelona, it is an absolute must to see Gaudi’s masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia and interesting to visit Unesco Heritage Sites Parque Guell, Casa Batló and Casa Milà, all designed by Gaudi. (Later this year, Casa Vicens will be open to the public as a museum, as well).
Rain had been in the forecast for Barcelona all week and I had hoped that as the time went on, that maybe the forecast would change for the better. No dice…when we landed, there were raindrops all of over the airplane windows and it was dark and gloomy outside.
Pondering the many things to do in Barcelona, I had originally thought of taking the bus to Parque Guell if the weather was nice. Obviously, this wasn’t going to happen. My second idea was to re-visit Sagrada Familia; it had been three years since I had last toured the impressive church. Definitely worth a second visit, I checked the website for available tickets, however, the only time slot available was 7:00 pm. Not wanting the pressure of trying to squeeze in something before and having to make it there for the admission time, I decided it probably wasn’t the day to do it.
Since Gaudi was on my mind and I had visited Casa Batló last year, Casa Milà caught my eye. Just down the street from Casa Batló on Passeig de Gràcia, it was an easy bus ride from my hotel. And….I would be indoors in the event that the weather was not optimum.
Casa Batló
Not raining any longer, but still quite cloudy and threatening, we took the number 7 bus down to Passeig de Gràcia near the Diagonal Metro Station. Disembarking, we walked down the street and proceeded to get in line with the hordes of people that were where we assumed was Casa Milà. Thankfully, I looked up at the building and realized that it looked very familiar. We were not at Casa Milà, but Casa Batló, as we had walked in the wrong direction! Without having wasted much time, we headed in the opposite direction and soon came to the correct destination, Casa Milà. Here, thankfully, there was a very short line and as we stood in the queue, the sky began to clear and we actually saw a bit of sunshine.
Casa Milà
Built from 1906 to 1912 as two apartment blocks with separate entrances and linked by two large courtyards, Casa Milà was erected as a family home for Pere Milà i Camps and his wife Roser Segimon i Artells, but with apartments for rent. The building’s facade is compromised of undulating stone with twisting wrought iron balconies and windows. It resembles an open quarry, thus earning the nickname, La Pedrera. Casa Milà was Gaudi’s fourth and final work that he did on Passeig de Gràcia, which was the main avenue of Barcelona at the time.
Casa Milà Staircase
As we began the long climb up to the top of the building, we passed some of the apartments that share the space. We exited the stairwell onto the Roof Terrace, and were in awe of the sight before us. Many architectural sculptures stood before us which serve the building artistically as well as practically as stairwells, ventilation towers and chimneys. There were many a picture here on the terrace and from the building as the Sagrada Familia and multiple parts of the city could be viewed from here. I learned later that the Roof Terrace closes when it is raining, so we were extremely fortunate that the weather was cooperating at that time…a little cloudy, but overall dry.
The next space to visit, was the Espai Gaudi. This spectacular attic space, with its arched ceiling devotes itself to Gaudi’s work. The 270 catenary arches of various heights support the Roof Terrace and is an amazing display of architectural genius.
Attic, Espai Gaudi
Pedrera Apartment
The Pedrera Apartment recreates the life of a bourgeois family in Barcelona during the early twentieth century. Located on the fourth floor, the apartment is decorated with period furniture, works of art, ornaments, fabrics and household accessories. Displayed here, not only the way of life during the time period, but the eloquent architecture.
Finally, on the lower level of the building is the Courtyard. Looking up to the open air above where the Roof Terrace is located, this space aids with light and ventilation. Colorful murals adorn the ceilings and walls of the lobbies and main staircase. At the top of the staircase, the Exhibition Hall is located. This main floor was the former residence of the Milà’s and displays the open-floor plan used by Gaudi.
View upward from the courtyardExhibition Hall StairwayCourtyard decor and Premium entranceCourtyard
As our visit to La Pedrera was complete, we were shocked to see how much time had passed. So absorbed in the building and all that it offered, we had spent almost three hours taking in this astonishing architecture! An interesting way to spend an afternoon, we learned that we could return at another time to experience Casa Milà by Night which offers multiple projections in the stairwells and Passeig de Gràcia Courtyard as well as an extraordinary audiovisual show on the Roof Terrace. Truly a remarkable, well-rounded experience!
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Hours: La Pedrera by Night, Monday to Sunday, 21:00 to 23:00
Admission: La Pedrera by Day, Adults, 20.50€, Students, 16.50€, Children (7-12), 10.25€, Children (under 7), free. Includes audio guide.
Admission: La Pedrera by Day and Night, Adults, 39.50€, Children (7-12), 19.75€, Children (under 7), free. Includes audio guide.
Admission: La Pedrera Premium, Adults, 27.00€, Children (7-12), 10.25€, Children (under 7), free. Includes guide book, audio guide and premium admission with no waiting.
How to get there: Bus, 7, 16, 17, 24 and V17. Metro, lines 3 and 5, station Diagonal. FGC, Provença-La Pedrera. RENFE, Passeig de Gràcia
Having visited Athens on many occasions, I have seen the Acropolis, more than once, as well as many of the archaeological sites throughout the city. After a bit of research, I discovered one archaeological site that I had not explored on my other sojourns…Kerameikos, the thirty centuries old cemetery located on the northwest fringe of the city.
Hurrying through my impromptu church tour, I wanted to enter the cemetery before it’s early closing at 3:00 pm due to the Holy Week schedule. Having read many good things about the cemetery, I was determined to arrive with enough time to visit both the grounds and the museum.
Easy to reach, by walking the length of Ermou Street or via the metro (Keramiekos station, line 3), Kerameikos is just past the Monistiraki Flea Market and the Ancient Agora. Near the end of Ermou, there is signage pointing you in the correct direction and you can actually gaze upon the ruins below though the gates while walking to the entrance.
After paying my entrance fee of 2 euro, I made my way to the neo-classical styled museum. Informed by the ladies in the ticket office that the museum would take about 40 minutes, I started first by inspecting the statuary located outside under the portico, then finally moving in to the interior. Here, there is a vast display of burial-related artifacts, including marble sculptures, funerary urns, pottery, jewelry and toys. Most notable is the stunning bull, in the interior courtyard, from the tomb of Dionysios of Kollytos. A large number of original burial monument sculptures and grave markers are displayed at the museum in the outer courtyard, with plaster replicas replacing in them in their original sites.
Museum entranceStatuary on the portico
From the tomb of Dionysios of Kollytos
Grave markers
The immense number of grave markers, located just outside of the museum are small and plain and not quite what one would expect in a graveyard, resembling more of an ancient road marker or small sign post. These stark gravestones resulted from a a decree in 317 BC that prohibited more elaborate monuments, such as those with statues, that were in vogue at the time. After passing the grave markers while exiting the museum, I moved out to the paths that clearly define and move you throughout the site.
The ancient district of Kerameikos was located within the city walls of Athens with many ceramic workshops in the area. The outside part of Kerameikos served as the burial grounds. Located within Kerameikos was the Sacred Gate, and the start of the Sacred Way, or Iera Odos, which connected Athens with Eleusus and used by the many pilgrims traveling between the two cities during the procession of Panathenia. The Dipylon Gate, the main entrance to the city, was the spot where Pericles gave his most notable speech honoring those who died in the first year of the Peloponesian war. State graves were built on either side of the Dipylon Gate, for Athens notable warriors and statesmen, including Pericles and Cleisthenes. The Dipylon Gate was also the starting point of the ancient Dromos (Road) leading to the Platonic Academy.
Sacred GateRoad to the Platonic Academy
The Pompeion
The Pompeion, the preparation site for the Panathenaic procession in honor of Athena, was located between the Sacred Gate and the Dipylon Gate. The original building was destroyed in 88 BC during the conquest and plundering of Athens and the Building of the Warehouses replaced it in the 2nd Century AD. The Eridanos river which once passed through the Sacred Gate still flows beneath the site, having been covered over since the Roman period.
On the Street of Tombs, replicas of gravestones of some of the most prominent citizens of Athens, can be seen here. These graves were part of the public graveyard and these notable citizens were buried here at the public expense. The original gravestones are now housed in the National Museum.
Street of TombsModern replicas of the burial monuments for Hegeso, daughter of Proxenios, and for Koroibos
Church of Agia TriadaThe Acropolis as seen from Kerameikos
Often overlooked by visitors, Kerameikos is one of the most significant historical monuments in Athens. Comprising much historical value, it assists visitors in understanding the ancient Athenian way of life and therefore is a “must-see”. The church of Agia Triada serves as a beautiful background to the cemetery and outstanding views of many other Athens sites can be seen from Kerameikos, such as the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill. The area has been planted with Mediterranean vegetation and is large and open. Not crowded and easy to navigate, the cemetery is a wonderful way to spend part of a day in Athens!
Springtime at Kerameikos
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Kerameikos Cemetery
Hours: April 1 to October 31, 08:00-19:30 daily, Monday 11:00-19:30, November 1 to March 31, 08:00-15:00 daily
A few weeks ago, I was in the Dominican Republic on Easter Sunday, soaking up the sunshine on Bavaro Beach. Little did I realize that a little more than a month later, I would get to celebrate Easter again.
While checking the Acropolis museum website last week, I noticed a banner across the website opening page, Holy Week 2016 Opening Hours at the Acropolis Museum. “Oh, they must have not updated their web page this month”, I thought to myself.
Well, you are never too old to learn something new. The Greek Orthodox Church celebrates Easter later than the Catholic church. The Greek Orthodox Church uses the Julian calendar when calculating the date of Pascha (Easter), while the rest of Christianity uses the Gregorian calendar. There is a thirteen day difference between the two calendars with the Julian calendar being thirteen days behind the Gregorian. Additionally, the Orthodox Church maintains that Pascha must take place after the Jewish Passover in order to maintain the Biblical sequence of Christ’s Passion. Occasionally, the two do celebrate it on the same date (last time, 2011), however the dates of Easter for the Orthodox Church can be anywhere from one to five weeks later.
So, Easter was going to be celebrated on Sunday and all museums, archaeological sites and many shops would be closing early on Saturday? There goes my nap. Being that we would not be arriving until mid-morning, I realized that if I wanted to visit any museums or do any shopping, I would have to take a shower and hit the streets right away.
Having made the decision to visit Agia Dynamis, I decided to map out other churches in the area since it was a Holy Weekend. Visits to these would be accomplished on my way to and from the Kerameikos Ancient Cemetery. Some of my favorite things to see in other countries is their churches…what not a better weekend to see some of Athen’s finest, than on Easter weekend?
Agia Dynamis (Holy Power), a tiny church on the corner of Mitropoleos Street and Pentellis Street, is squeezed between two of the supporting pillars of the Ministry of Education and Religion building. The ministry has been party built around the church as it cannot be demolished due to its prominent history. During the Greek revolution this was the location, that the Greek ammunition master, Mastropavlis, made bullets for the Turkish and for Greek freedom fighters that were smuggled out during the night in garbage bags.
The church is very small and not very embellished. There were many Athenians visiting the church while I was on the premises, lighting candles and offering up prayers.
Walking up Mitropoleos Street, in the Platia Mitropoleos, I next arrived at the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and the adjacent and diminutive Agios Eleftherios church, also known as Mikri Mitropoli (little metropolitan church) or Panagia Georgoepikoos (meaning “All-saint Mary who answers quickly to prayers”).
The Agios Eleftherios church is a Byzantine-era construction from the 13th century ordered to be built by the bishop of Athens. With the expulsion of King Otho, in 1862, it received its current name, meaning “Freedom”.
The outside is constructed of marble with much artistic detail. It is extremely small inside, but beautiful in its simplistic character.
After my visit was complete, I moved onward to the Agios Eleftherios’ illustrious neighbor, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens, popularly known as the “Metropolis”.
Towering over the “little metropolitan church” and the square, the domed basilica has presided in its current location since 1842 when construction began on Christmas Day. Marble from 72 demolished churches was used to build the Cathedral’s colossal walls. After its completion 20 years later, the Cathedral was dedicated by the King and Queen to the Annunciation of the Mother of God. The cathedral, a major city landmark, is the site of official ceremonies and important wedding and funerals.
When entering the church, note the ancient marble, above the entrance, depicting a woman said to be Eileithyia, the goddess of childbirth. During the passage from mythology to Christianity, many temples were transformed into churches and leads one to believe that this particular church was probably built on the ruins of an ancient Greek temple dedicated to Eileithyia.
The interior is very ornate with rich color, distinctive iconography and a beautiful domed ceiling. The Cathedral houses the tombs of two saints, Saint Philothei and Patriarch Gregory V, both killed by the Ottoman Turks during the Ottoman period. The interior was roped off and the sanctuary could only be viewed from afar.
After exiting the Cathedral, I took a a moment to wander through the square taking note of the two statues which reside here; Saint Constantine XI the Ethnomartyr, the last Byzantine Emperor and Archbishop Damaskinos, the Archbishop of Athens during World War II, who was also Regent for King George II and Prime Minister of Greece in 1946.
Walking through the Plaka, I resumed my church tour arriving in Monastiraki Square. The square is named for the Church of Pantanassa (or Ekklisia Kimisi Theotokou Mitropoleos) which is also located here. This small church presides over the square and the crowds of tourists that congregate here for shopping, dining, sightseeing and utilization of the metro at the Monastiraki station.
This church was known as the Great Monastery as it was located on the site of a monastery that stood here many years ago. Later, it became monastiraki (little monastery) which eventually denominated the entire area. Deciding to forgo the interior of this small shrine, I admired it from outside and continued on my way.
My next destination was the Kerameikos Cemetery, Museum and Archaeological Site located near the end of Ermou Street. The cemetery, one of the lesser known archaeological sites in the city, is most certainly worth a visit while in the area.
After my visit to Kerameikos Cemetery, I headed back through Monastiraki Square and walked along the Ancient Agora admiring Hadrian’s Library and the Tower of the Winds.
Hadrian’s Library, Ancient AgoraTower of the Winds, Ancient Agora
My final destination was the Church of the Holy Trinity or Sotira Lykodimou, one of the largest medieval buildings in Athens. The Byzantine church was built a little before 1083 within the city’s defensive walls. In 1847, the Russian government purchased the property and Tsar Alexander II undertook the huge renovation of the building in 1850, when the impressive bell tower and side tribunes were added. Now commonly known as the Russian Church it is the parish church of the Russian Orthodox community in Athens.
Stepping into the church, the eye is drawn upward to the impressively festooned dome and the exquisite tall Russian iconostasis, which warranted further inspection, however, before I could take additional pictures, I was instructed that none were allowed.
A quick walk around the exterior and I finally decided that my church tour was complete and it was finally time for my nap.
Within the ancient winding city of Athens, there are many more churches that are worthy of inspection. Dating back to the 5th century and boasting impressive architecture, most are well-preserved and decorated with icons and rare-frescoes. While strolling around the city, everyone should take time to visit these historical houses of worship.
Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Agia Dynamis
Corner of Mitropoleos and Pentelis Streets
Take metro to Syntagma square, cross the square to the start of Mitropoleos Street and walk west. The church will be on your left.Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and Agios Eleftherios Church
Metropolitan Square, Athens 105 56
Take metro to Syntagma square, cross the square to the start of Mitropoleos Street and walk west. The square and churches will be on your left.
Church of Pantanassa
Monastiraki Square, 10555 Athens
By Metro: 1 (Green Line), 3 (Blue Line), Station “Monastiraki”
By Bus: 025, 026, 027, 035, 200, 227, 500
By Foot: From Syntagma Square, follow Ermou Street all the way down until you meet up with Monastiraki Square
Church of the Holy Trinity
Corner of Filellinon Street and Souri
Take metro to Syntagma square. Head south on Amalias, take a right on Souri.
When going to a city that I have visited many times before, sometimes it seems as though I have seen it all. Absolutely aware that I have not, it just sometimes feels that way when looking for new things to do and seemingly finding the same things suggested over and over.
In order to plan my layovers, I always do a Google search for things to do in a city, however, usually all of the common touristic things pop up that I have already experienced. Recently, I have been employing the search for offbeat things to do. Sometimes you find some really cool stuff (check out my post on the the Purgatory Museum in Rome, “Bones and Burns”!).
Last week, while investigating activities in Athens, Greece, I decided to look for any unique sights that I had not explored previously. With my offbeat search, I came across “Tom’s Place” on the Athens Info Guide website.
The home of Tom McGrath on 23 Iperidou Street, collapsed in the earthquake of 1999. Tom, described as a free spirit, was purported to still live on the property in a run-down room at the rear of the plot amidst a collection of strange objects displayed among the rubble…a vintage motorbike displayed near a car dubbed the Taliban Taxi…a pair of feet sticking out of a plywood coffin…a stuffed elephant peeping from a rubbish bin…a collection of offbeat signs and graffiti.
Marking my Google Maps on my Iphone, I decided that I would try to find this strange residence since my plans were to be in the area.
Setting out, I completed my errands and a few other bits of sightseeing. As I meandered through the Monistiraki Flea Market, near the Old Agora, I checked my map and adjusted my route to take me in the direction of Iperidou Street. As I was nearing the destination, I started looking out for the strange artistic assemblage, but what I stumbled upon was not what I was expecting. There on the street corner, was a plywood barricade with crumbling bricks peeking out behind the tops and a dilapidated doorway amidst a decaying facade. The walls were painted a bright blue and contained a mass of political messages. At first, I was not sure that this was the right place…until I stepped around the corner and discovered, Tom’s Donation Box!
This was absolutely the right place, but how disappointing to not be able to see Tom’s odd collection, I thought, as I looked for an unlocked door or window to peek through.
As I looked across the street, I noticed a sign hanging on a door…Tom’s Corner Plaka. Hmmm. Could Tom be living there? As I lifted my camera up to take a picture of the sign, the door opened and man stepped outside and began to lock the door behind him.
It had to be Tom!
As he walked across the street, I hesitated for a split second before calling out (and thinking that I must be insane) to him. “Are you Tom?”. He seemed to freeze for a second, even as he walked, not knowing whether or not to answer. Then, as if his curiosity got the best of him, he said, “Yes, I am Tom”. He began to walk toward me.
Introducing myself to him, I explained that I had come to see his collection of oddities that I had read about and was disappointed to see that his home was boarded up. He then said to me, “You must have been reading Lonely Planet. Very inaccurate it is.”
Explaining that I had read about him on the internet, but not sure where, I had thought his home would be interesting to see. Tom explained that he had been required to board up his residence as it was deemed an eyesore, but now lived across the street. We then began a conversation that went on to last about 30 minutes and covered many topics from the Presidential Race in the United States (he thinks Trump is interesting), to where he grew up (Belfast, Ireland) and on to Pan American Airways (he used to drive their crew bus).
Realizing that he had been leaving when I interrupted him, I tried many times to end the conversation, not wanting to keep him…but he kept on talking! Quite the character, he was extremely entertaining and funny and I found myself enjoying my time there on the curb of Iperidou Street.
Finally, I insisted that I not keep him from his errands and I bade him a farewell. After finding out that I was a flight attendant, he inquired as to the frequency of my visits to Athens and demanded that I come and visit him again the next time I was in town…I also had to agree to bring friends! We finally shook hands and went on our way!
Leaving Tom’s Place, I was happy that I had stumbled across the suggestion in the Off the Beaten Path section of the Athen’s Info Guide. Feeling happy that I had succeeded in my task and accomplished way more than marking off something from my sightseeing list…I had made a new friend! Traveling is not only about seeing and experiencing things, but about meeting unique and interesting people along the way. That, my friends, is worth way more than the admission price to the Acropolis!
Check out more pictures of Tom’s Place on Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
How to get there: Take metro to Syntagma stop. Walk across Sytagma Square to the start of Mitropoleos Street heading west, then take a left on to Voulis. Take a right on Iperidou. Tom’s place is on the corner of Iperidou and Sotiros.
Finding the ticket counter in the Hauptbahnhof, the main train station, was a little challenging, however, after asking around, tickets were soon in hand and we were on our way. A quick 20 minutes later, we were disembarking and heading toward the trail-head and the summit, some 2851 feet above sea level.
The paths were filled with hikers, mountain bikers, families and individuals enjoying the outdoor balmy temperatures and clear skies. The trails are not extremely steep and wide enough to accommodate a large number of visitors. Amusing lamp posts lines the way…though we never could figure out if they were some sort of deer or giraffe! As we finally reached the top, we were rewarded with outstanding panoramas of Zurich, Lake Zurich and the snow covered Alps.
