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Paris is a remarkable city. With an abundance of things to experience, it is a destination of which one never tires. Having not been in Paris for a couple of years, I was excited to see some areas that I have frequented on past visits and some sights that I had not yet had the pleasure.
Leaving the hotel, I decided to walk down the street to the Denfert-Rochambeau metro stop and inspect the line for the catacombs. A few years ago, I visited this eerie attraction, but had to wait in line for a couple of hours to enter. Finding the line wrapped around the circle to where I had joined last time and then way past, I decided that I was unwilling to devote that much time when there were so many other things to see, especially on a beautiful sunny day.
Jumping on the RER train at the adjacent metro/train station, I decided to head north to the Luxembourg stop. Arriving across from Luxembourg Gardens, I walked west in the 5th arrondisement toward my destination, The Pantheon.
Having been to the Pantheon in Rome, which this one was modeled after, I have also walked past this one in Paris’ Latin Quarter, many times. For some reason, however, I had never ventured inside this Parisian landmark, most likely in recent years because it was under renovation. Proceeding through the gates, toward the entrance, I made note of the inscription above, “Aux Grands Hommes La Patrie Reconnaissante” (“For great men the grateful Nation”). This sums up what the Pantheon is all about.
In 1744, an ill King Louis XV vowed that if he recovered, the church of the Abbey of St. Genevieve would be replaced with one worthy of the patron saint of Paris. Construction began in 1757, with Jacques-German Soufflot in charge of the design.
After its completion, (named Sainte-Genevieve Church during this time) The French Revolution was in full swing. Changing the church into a mausoleum, the Revolutionist government deemed it a place to bury exceptional Frenchmen who had sacrificed their lives for their country or who had done something great for France. Although it flipped back and forth between church and mausoleum during the next few years, it now remains the latter, entombing the likes of Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Marat, Louis Pasteur, Jean Moulin, Marie Curie, Emile Zola, Louis Braille and its architect, Soufflot on its lower level.
While purchasing my ticket, I was also given the option of taking the tour of the dome, which departs at predetermined times. Since the next tour was scheduled in 45 minutes, I decided that it would be worth the 2 euro to see the Pantheon in its entirety as well as the spectacular panoramic views of the city.
For those obsessed with architecture, walking into the Pantheon is breathtaking. The main dome and its oculus is an architectural wonder, still holding the record for the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome. The oculus and the entry door are the only sources of natural light and the oculus also serves as a cooling and ventilation method. The interior walls are decorated with paintings and mosaics of scenes from French history and offers many sculptures by Pierre-Jean David D’Angers of post-Revolutionary patriots.
Another important display within the Pantheon is Foucault’s Pendulum. In 1851, French physicist, Leon Foucault, designed a simple device as an experiment to demonstrate the rotation of the earth. The most famous of the Foucault Pendulums is on display here, suspended from the Pantheon’s dome and attracts a large crowd to watch the pendulum swing clockwise 11 degrees per hour, making the full circle in 32.7 hours.
Walking toward the rear of the Pantheon, I then headed down the steps toward the crypt. When entering the subterranean crypt, stunning frescoes depict scenes from the life of St. Genevieve. The area encompassing the many tombs is quite massive, taking you in three separate directions. The crypt area has a very modern feel and many displays offer history and information on the interred.
Finally heading upstairs, I proceeded to join the large number of other tourists in the cordoned-off area for the dome tour. Escorted by a multilingual tour guide up a multitude of stairs, we gathered for a quick stop on a mezzanine for a bird’s eye view of the Pantheon’s interior and closer inspection of the oculus. Climbing further still, we ascended onto an outside balcony enroute to the topmost area, a culmination of 276 steps. From here, we had awe-inspiring views of all of Paris, including notable landmarks, Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower and the Sacre Coeur. Surprisingly, much time is given for everyone to enjoy and revel in the scenery before being escorted back down to the interior, where more time can be devoted to discovering all that the Pantheon has to offer.
Now that renovation of the Pantheon is complete, a visit is necessary for those who have never been, for history and architecture lovers and those obsessed with seeing the city in its entirety from a raised level. There are many ways to see the city from above, but the 360 degree view offered by the Pantheon is simply stunning. Take your time to enjoy the interior as well as the exterior, especially noting the exoteric construction. Combine your visit with the Luxembourg gardens and a stroll thru the Latin Quarter and this will surely fill a day in the City of Light.
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The Pantheon
- http://www.pantheonparis.com/
- Address: Latin Quarter, Place du Pantheon, Rue Soufflot, 75005 ParisMetro: Cardinal Lemoine
- Hours: April 1 thru September 30, daily, 10:00-18:30, October 1 thru March 31, 10:00-18:00, closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.
- Admission: 8.50€, general admission + 2€ for dome tour
- Getting There: RER station-Luxembourg, Metro station-Cardinal Lemoine, Bus: 84, 89