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Rome has many basilicas.
Amsterdam…only one.
Arriving in the Dutch capital via Amsterdam Central Station, one of the first landmarks you spy is the Basilica of St. Nicholas. Located to the left, in the Old Town district, its two towers mark the skyline.
Having always noticed this beautiful building, it was my desire to visit one day. Never quite having the time or being able to arrive before closing, due to its restrictive schedule, I realized that its door were open one afternoon, while passing nearby.
Built over 129 years ago, the city’s main Catholic church, was designed by architect, Adrianus Bleijs and was originally called St. Nicholas Inside the Walls as it sat within the oldest part of the Amsterdam defense works. It was elevated to basilica in 2012, during its 125th year of existence, during a celebration of Solemn Vespers.
Combining Neo-Baroque and Neo-Renaissance styles, the church’s exterior is easily recognizable with its two identical towers on either side of the ornate stained glass rose window. A domed baroque octagonal tower is adorned with a large cross. Above the rose window, a statue of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of Amsterdam and seafarers, can be spotted.
The basilica’s mixture of styles is carried on within the recently renovated church. Designed with a three-aisled layout the large baroque dome sits above the crossing.
Two chapels alongside the apse and the nave are devoted to Mary and Joseph and on both sides of the church and high above the altar, sits the crown of Maximilian I, a symbol seen throughout Amsterdam.
Take the time to inspect the beautiful religious murals that line the walls throughout the church, most importantly the 14 Stations of the Cross by Jan Dunselman which were painted from 1891 to 1898. Interestingly, Dunselman used the faces of parishioners as his models preserving their likenesses for future parishioners and relatives to appreciate. Other paintings commemorate the Miracle of Amsterdam and the Martyrs of Gorkum, 19 Catholic figures who were hanged in 1572.
The pulpit, an elaborately designed piece by Pierre Elysee van den Bossche highlights the left of the structure as well as the 19th century Sauer organ at the rear of the church. The German organ was built in 1889 and attracts large numbers of world renowned organists from around the world during the International Organ Concert Series every summer. These musicians treasure the opportunity to not only enjoy the music from this magnificent instrument, but to perform on it as well.
One last thing to note…when leaving the church, take look above you before crossing through the doorway. A beautiful little wooden sailboat hangs silently, reminding us of Amsterdam’s seafaring ancestry and the basilica’s patron saint.
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St. Nicholas Basilica
- http://www.nicolaas-parochie.nl/
- Address: Prins Hendrikkade 73, 1012 AD Amsterdam
- Hours: Monday, 1200-1500, Tuesday-Friday, 1100-1600, Saturday, 1200-1500 and 1630-1745, Sunday 0945-1400 and 1630-1730
- Admission: Free
- Mass Schedule: Sunday, 1030, High Mass, 1300 High Mass (Spanish), 1700 Gregorian Vespers (Latin), Monday-Saturday, 1230 Mass, (Tuesday-English, Friday-Spanish), Thursday, 1800, Vespers and Mass, Saturday, 1700, Choral Evensong, English
Watching Banksy Does New York with my children, I was fascinated. People scrutinize the internet in order to find his pieces, located on walls, streets, bridges and self-built prop pieces in cities throughout the world, before they are removed or defaced. Some are just quick stencils on the sides of buildings. Some have moving parts or actually move through the city, but most have strong political and social statements and almost all are quite humorous.
The displays were split between the upper and lower floors of the museum, and was combined with an exhibit on Salvador Dali on the basement floor. Starting on the top floor, first stopping to admire his piece, Forgive Us For Our Trespassing on the staircase landing, we made our way through each of the themed rooms, Anti-capitalism, Laugh Now, Weaponry, There Is Always Hope and CCTV highlighting some of his classics like Laugh Now and Girl with Balloon.
The Carillon tower is all that remains of a late gothic church and is the oldest clockwork in the Netherlands, dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. The belltower for the Church of Our Dear Lady still stands despite the demolition of the church in 1882. The tower, threatening to fall, in 1972, was shored up with steel girder sand restored. The tower was not open for inspection, but we learned that it houses the Association for the Conservation of the IJsselmeer. The bells, made by Pieter van den Ghein, ring a short melody every fifteen minutes and we were serenaded as we made our way into the center of town.
Deciding to skip the Edam museum, a crooked building near the Damplein, we headed toward the Grote Kerk. Arriving at the 15th century Sint Nicholaaskerk (St. Nicholas Church), we discovered that it would not open until after one o’clock. Walking around the cemetery at the rear of the building we inspected the many unique gravestones and statues.
Passing the 18th century baroque-style Town Hall, we headed down the main street towards Fort Edam. After a 20 minute walk, we soon found ourselves at the gates of Fort Edam. Theme of the day in Edam? Closed. Peering in, we eyed the aged structure that was once the line of defense from attacks from the north. Not able to enter, we turned around and made our way back from which we came, aiming to catch the next bus and a busier city.
The Dutch town of Volendam, located on the Markermeer Lake is known for its colorful wooden houses, red roofs and old fishing boats that rest in its harbor. There are many seafood vendors lining the harbor and two fascinating museums, the Volendam Museum, featuring paintings, sculptures, pottery, traditional costumes and art from 19th century artists who visited the area and the Palingsound Museum, which chronicles the local music scene.
Not a very large museum, it is filled with replicas of famous jewels, some old equipment used in processing diamonds, information on the history of the diamond industry in Amsterdam and the diamond influence on fashion, entertainment and everyday life.
Although much of the museum was devoted to displays, it was interesting to learn about the history of the diamond industry. My favorite part of the museum, however, was the space devoted to stories detailing famous jewel heists. Another fascinating part was the exhibit on historical crowns decorated with diamonds. The crowns were well displayed, colorful and a highlight of the mediocrity of the gallery.
