Empire State of Mind

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Gosh!  I work in New York City.  I’ve spent lots of time in New York City!  What have I not done while in the city?

Sometimes it’s hard to think of things to do.  My son and I were in this exact predicament…we couldn’t think of a thing while in New York for an overnight visit!

What to do?  Pull out your phone and Google Things To Do in New York City. 

Statue of Liberty…yes, done.

High Line…yes, done.

Museum of Natural History…yes, done.

Empire State Building…NO!  Not done!

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With dinner plans in place for later in the evening, we opted to make the best use of our time.  Calling Lyft, we were quickly on our way to the iconic art deco building on the east side.

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IMG_9881Having heard tales of long lines, I was prepared for a bit of a wait, however, being four o’clock on a winter’s afternoon, it was not busy at all.  Making our way through the maze of roped off areas and security to the ticket counter, we soon had tickets in hand and were on our way to the elevator and the long ride to the top.

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Deciding to purchase tickets for both the Top and Main Deck, we ascended to the 80th floor and the Dare to Dream Exhibit, which chronicles the Empire State Building’s history, engineering and construction.

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An engineering marvel, the Empire State Building, 1,250 feet high, surpassed the Chrysler Building as the tallest building in the world.  Completed on May 1, 1931, it was built in only one year and 45 days.

OrigIMG_1080inal documents, period photographs, architectural sketches, construction notes and photos walk visitors through the creation of the iconic skyscraper.  It is here where you get your first glimpses of Manhattan from a bird’s eye view through the large windows that line this floor.

IMG_9911Taking the elevator, once again, we reached the 86th floor Observatory.  When people imagine visiting the Empire State Building, this is what they think of…the wrap-around deck that gives 360 degree open-air views of the Big Apple.

 

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Very windy and cold, we zipped up our jackets and donned our gloves so that we could enjoy the views of Central Park, the Hudson and East Rivers, the Brooklyn Bridge, Times Square, the Statue of Liberty and everything in between and beyond.  Because it was nearing sunset, we had amazing views of the changing sky to the west.

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Finally, we boarded the elevator for the 102nd floor and the Top Deck.  Instead of a manually operated elevator, this one shows the altitude rise instead of counting floors and we were soon at our destination.  In short time, we were exiting onto this topmost floor, where sadly, nothing was much different than the 86th floor.

Same views, just a little higher.

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When we had purchased out tickets, we had assumed that “the higher, the better”.  Though warmer and protected, I must admit, we were a little disappointed.  A very claustrophobic and small area, the windows were a bit higher up and a bit dirty.  Honestly, I would have preferred to return to the 86th floor to enjoy the final moments of the sunset.

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After a few pictures, to capture the fact that we paid an extra twenty dollars to visit the topmost floor, we were soon on our way, back to the bottom.

An impressive building, I would say that it is a must-see while in New York.  That being said, skip the 102nd floor and spend your time on the Main Deck Observatory.  After all, Hollywood has filmed many movies (An Affair to Remember, When Harry Met Sally, Sleepless in Seattle, to name a few) up here.  There’s a reason for that!

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Empire State Building

  • http://www.esbnyc.com/
  • Address:  17-25 W 29th St, New York, NY 10001, USA
  • Hours:  0800-0200, daily
  • Admission:  Standard Pass Main Deck, includes Dare to Dream Exhibit (80th floor), Observation Deck (86th floor, indoor and outdoor), Adult, $34, Child, $27, Senior, $31.  Standard Pass Top and Main Deck, also includes 102nd floor observatory (indoor), Adult, $54, Child $47, Senior, $51.  VIP Passes also available to skip the lines.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Only One

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Rome has many basilicas.

Amsterdam…only one.

Arriving in the Dutch capital via Amsterdam Central Station, one of the first landmarks you spy is the Basilica of St. Nicholas.  Located to the left, in the Old Town district, its two towers mark the skyline.

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Having always noticed this beautiful building, it was my desire to visit one day.  Never quite having the time or being able to arrive before closing, due to its restrictive schedule, I realized that its door were open one afternoon, while passing nearby.

Built over 129 years ago, the city’s main Catholic church, was designed by architect, Adrianus Bleijs and was originally called St. Nicholas Inside the Walls as it sat within the oldest part of the Amsterdam defense works.  It was elevated to basilica in 2012, during its 125th year of existence, during a celebration of Solemn Vespers.

Combining Neo-Baroque and Neo-Renaissance styles, the church’s exterior is easily recognizable with its two identical towers on either side of the ornate stained glass rose window.  A domed baroque octagonal tower is adorned with a large cross.  Above the rose window, a statue of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of Amsterdam and seafarers, can be spotted.

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The basilica’s mixture of styles is carried on within the recently renovated church.  Designed with a three-aisled layout the large baroque dome sits above the crossing.

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Two chapels alongside the apse and the nave are devoted to Mary and Joseph and on both sides of the church and high above the altar, sits the crown of Maximilian I, a symbol seen throughout Amsterdam.

Netherlands Amsterdam St Nicholas Madonna and Child

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Take the time to inspect the beautiful religious murals that line the walls throughout the church, most importantly the 14 Stations of the Cross by Jan Dunselman which were painted from 1891 to 1898.  Interestingly, Dunselman used the faces of parishioners as his models preserving their likenesses for future parishioners and relatives to appreciate.  Other paintings commemorate the Miracle of Amsterdam and the Martyrs of Gorkum, 19 Catholic figures who were hanged in 1572.

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IMG_6286The pulpit, an elaborately designed piece by Pierre Elysee van den Bossche highlights the left of the structure as well as the 19th century Sauer organ at the rear of the church.  The German organ was built in 1889 and attracts large numbers of world renowned organists from around the world during the International Organ Concert Series every summer.  These musicians treasure the opportunity to not only enjoy the music from this magnificent instrument, but to perform on it as well.

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One last thing to note…when leaving the church, take look above you before crossing through the doorway.  A beautiful little wooden sailboat hangs silently, reminding us of Amsterdam’s seafaring ancestry and the basilica’s patron saint.IMG_6280

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St. Nicholas Basilica

  • http://www.nicolaas-parochie.nl/
  • Address:  Prins Hendrikkade 73, 1012 AD Amsterdam
  • Hours:  Monday, 1200-1500, Tuesday-Friday, 1100-1600, Saturday, 1200-1500 and 1630-1745, Sunday 0945-1400 and 1630-1730
  • Admission:  Free
  • Mass Schedule:  Sunday, 1030, High Mass, 1300 High Mass (Spanish), 1700 Gregorian Vespers (Latin), Monday-Saturday, 1230 Mass, (Tuesday-English, Friday-Spanish), Thursday, 1800, Vespers and Mass, Saturday, 1700, Choral Evensong, English

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Calling All Dan Brown Fans

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

A note on display in the church of St. Sulpice in Paris reads:

Contrary to fanciful allegations in a recent best-selling novel, this (the line in the floor) is not a vestige of a pagan temple.  No such temple ever existed in the place.  It was never called a Rose Line.  It does not coincide with the meridian traced through the middle of the Paris Observatory which serves as a reference for maps where longitudes are measured in degrees East or West of Paris.  Please also note that the letters “P” and “S” in the small round windows at both ends of the transept refer to Peter and Sulpice, the patron saints of the church, and not an imaginary “Priory of Sion”.

If you are a fan of Dan Brown’s 2003 novel, The Da Vince Code, then, this note will make complete sense.  Since the release of the international bestseller and the subsequent movie, crowds of tourists have flocked to Saint-Sulpice, in the City of Lights, to see the Rose Line.

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Admittedly, though a fan of churches, this is the real reason that I decided to visit St. Sulpice…not because it is the second largest church in the city (behind Notre Dame), not because the Marquis de Sade was baptized here or even to hear the renowned organists.

I wanted to see what the heck Dan Brown was talking about!

St. Sulpice, a Roman Catholic church in the Luxembourg Quarter, was founded in 1646 by parish priest Jean-Jacques Olier and the first stone was laid by Anne of Austria.

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The Late Baroque church was built over the span of a decade with construction beginning in 1646.  Various architects contributed to the multitude of designs and the interior structure was completed in 1745.  Damaged and turned into a Temple of Victory during the Revolution, it was restored and redecorated in the 19th century.

Known for being the site of the christenings of Marquis de Sade and Charles Baudelaire and the wedding of author Victor Hugo, it is also known for its resplendent artwork and chapels.

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Most noteworthy are the Delacroix frescoes in the Chapel of the Angels and Servandoni’s Rococo Chapel of the Madonna, with a Pigalle statue of the Virgin.  Another chapel contains the tomb of Curé Languet de Gergy who founded the world’s first pediatric hospital and oversaw the completion of the house of worship.  To the right of the entrance, take note of the two halves of an enormous shell.  Functioning as holy water fonts, these were given to King Francis I by the Venetion Republic and rest on rock-like bases sculpted by Jean-Baptiste Pigalle.

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The main focus of the church is its organ.  One of the world’s largest, with 6,588 pipes, it was constructed by Aristide Cavaille-Coll, the case was designed by Chalgrin and the statues were made by Clodion.  Having been played by many famous musicians, it is still known for its music and many concerts are still held in St. Sulpice to this day.

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Once you’ve checked out these fascinating aspects of the church, it is time to see what Dan Brown referred to in his book.

Near the middle of the nave on the right side, near a stone statue with a Latin inscription, look for the meridian line…a narrow brass strip that runs north across the nave and transept to an obelisk next to the statue of St. Peter.  Used to study the planets and determine the date of Easter each year, it works when the sun’s rays enter the church through a small opening in the south transept and rest on the line at various points throughout the year.  On the winter solstice, the rays hit the obelisk.  On the spring and autumn equinoxes, the rays hit the bronze table.

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The Da Vinci Code depicts an important scene in St. Sulpice which takes place around the meridian line.  An albino monk. Silas, searches for a keystone which is believed to unlock the secret of the Holy Grail.  In the book, the meridian line is described as the Rose Line and explained as being the original zero-longitude line which passed through Paris before being moved to Greenwich, England.  The monk, follows the line to the obelisk, only to find that he was misled in his search.

The meridian line was easy to find and there were many other visitors also taking a peek.

Envisioning the scene, it took me back to 2003 when I read the book in two days, so captivated by its story.  I almost expected to see Silas, not only a monk, but an assassin, attacking Sister Sandrine!

Captivated by St. Sulpice, I spent more time walking around its interior and making sure not to miss any part of its beauty and history.

Exiting the building, I longed to see the fountain, designed by Visconti and which bears the sculptures of the four bishops of the Louis XIV era…Fenelon, Massillon, Bossuet and Flechier, however, a Christmas market was being set up in the square in front of the church.  The area around the fountain and market was barricaded, not only prohibiting a close-up look at the fountain, but a wider-angled views of the façade of the church and its two mismatched towers.

When in the Luxembourg Quarter, in the 6th arrondissement, follow the signs (or the Rose Line!) to St. Sulpice.  Dan Brown or not, it is a church most worth visiting in Paris!

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St. Sulpice Church

  • http://pss75.fr/saint-sulpice-paris/
  • Address:  Place Saint-Sulpice, 2, rue Palatine, 75006 PARIS
  • Hours:  Daily, 0730-1930
  • Admission:  free
  • Masses are held Monday-Saturday, 0700, 0900, 1205, and 1845; Sunday, 0700, 0900, 1030, 1205, 1845
  • How to Get There:  Metro stop, Saint-Sulpice.  Buses 58, 63, 70, 86, 87, 89, and 95 stop near the church.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Journey to the Highlands

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Small doses.  This is how you learn to see cities when on layovers.

Having usually less than a day, it’s like winning the lottery when visiting on your own and knowing that you have more time to see everything you want to see.  And the bonus?  Time to venture out and see what else the country has to offer!

Excited to have that extra time in Edinburgh, we decided to book a tour…to the Scottish Highlands.

Our first inclination was to take the tour to Loch Ness.  Learning that it involved a twelve and a half hour day, much of which would be after sunset, we decided to alter our plans.  After much discussion and perusal of the tour company’s brochure, we finally decided on a shorter day…an adventure to West Highland Lochs, Mountains & Castles.

Departing from the center of Edinburgh, we boarded our tour bus at 9:15 a.m. in front of Ensign Ewart’s pub.  The large coach was a little more than half full of other tourists also anxious to see the Scottish countryside.

IMG_4343Setting out on the highway, we first passed Stirling Castle and the William Wallace Monument standing tall on the nearby summit of Abbey Craig.  On the right, our tour guide pointed out the Kelpies, 30-meter high horse-head sculptures near the River Carron.

Soon, we were crossing the Ardoch Burn river and heading through the town of Stirlingshire.  Minutes after, driving down a narrow lane, we arrived at Doune Castle, the first stop on our itinerary.

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For movie and television fans, this fortress is a must-see!  Doune, the 14th century courtyard castle, is well known for being featured in the cult classic, Monty Python and the Holy Grail, as well as television series, Game of Thrones and Outlander.

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Though more primitive than most other castles I have visited in Scotland and other countries, it boasts one of the best preserved great halls in Scotland.  Despite this illustrious fact, the castle does not have electricity and is only lit by daylight, making it quite difficult to see all facets of the building, especially on cloudy and rainy days.

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Due to the rain, the courtyard was also closed, thus preventing us from entering the cellar.

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After a quick walk around the property, it was time to depart and make our way to our next destination.

On we traveled, through the beautiful countryside, finally pulling over to the side of the road.  Not seeing any castles or ruins nearby, we weren’t sure what we were stopping for…there were just a bunch of funny looking cows in a field.  Stepping off of the bus, our tour guide informed us that these cows were what we were here to see!

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The Highland Cattle are a Scottish breed.  They have long horns and long wavy coats (colored black, brindle, red, yellow, white and silver) which keep them warm during the cold winters. They originated in the Highlands and Western Isles of Scotland and are bred for their high quality meat which is lower in cholesterol than other varieties and is exported worldwide.   We enjoyed watching them scratch their heads on the power lines and appear to pose.

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After lunch at a local establishment, the Green Welly, the only restaurant for many miles around, we then stopped along the road to admire Kilchurn Castle which sits on a piece of ground jutting into Loch Awe.  Once one person jumped the fence and decided to trudge through the bog to get a closer look at the castle…we all did.  Thankfully, I had worn my waterproof boots, as I squished through the spongy ground and mud to stand at the water’s edge and photograph the ruined castle framed by the cloud shrouded mountains.

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Kilchurn Castle, one of the most photographed castles in Scotland, looks out over Loch Awe, was built by Sir Colin Campbell and was once the base of the Campbells of Glenorchy.  It was built in the 1400s and contains the oldest surviving barracks on the British mainland.

Although the castle can be visited, it is only open during the warmest months of the year.

IMG_5526Onward we traveled to the next destination, Inveraray, home of a beautiful castle on the shores of Loch Fyne.  Although the tour brochure stated that we would visit the town of Inveraray for Highland souvenirs, we only stopped near a bridge so that we could photograph Inveraray Castle.

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Construction on Iveraray Castle, home to the Duke of Argyll, was begun in 1746 and took 43 years to complete.  The castle as it is today resulted from a fire in 1877, when the third floor was added as well as conical roofs on the corner towers. Sitting on 60,000 acres, it was the setting for the 2012 Christmas episode of Downton Abbey.  Only open from April to October, we were once again disappointed that we were unable to visit this magnificent palace, shrouded in the late afternoon mist.

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The Arrochar Alps were the next thing we were to see…were being the key word.   With all of the fog, mist and low hanging clouds, we could not even get a glimpse of the rocky peaks after parking at the vantage point.

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Continuing on, we finally headed for Loch Lomand and the charming village of Luss.  Though daylight was waning, we quickly jumped off the bus and headed down the narrow lanes of the community.  Small and quaint, I could only imagine the villagers all knowing each other and saying hello over the walls of their fenced-in yards each day.

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At the rear of the village, we stumbled upon Luss Parish Church.  A Church of Scotland, dedicated to St. Kessog, it was founded by the saint and has stood on the site for 1500 years.

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Walking through the churches gates, we explored the 15 historical grave sites in the churchyard as the light dwindled.

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Finally, we headed toward the shores of Loch Lomond and the village pier.  Snapping a few pictures before it became completely dark, we looked out on the picture perfect lake and some of the small islands situated in the basin.

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Making our way to our tour bus, we climbed in and walked back to our seats.  After a long day, of driving around, it was nice to know that we would soon be on our way back to Edinburgh.

Although we had a nice day getting to see a different part of Scotland, I reflected on about how much driving was involved that day and how little time we actually had a chance to explore.  See, yes.  Explore, no.

The Highlands are quite beautiful and I enjoyed seeing the small villages and rolling hillsides dotted with sheep. It was disappointing, however, that things we would have been able to see during other months of the year, were not available to us on this visit, such as Kilchurn and Inveraray Castles.  The Arrochar Alps…well, that has to be hit or miss, any time of the year as the clouds could be quite low during the summer months.  The silver lining of a winter tour, however, is that we were able to book the tour at the last minute, the tour bus not was as full and we arrived back in Edinburgh a little early than planned…and since the Christmas market was going on at this time…we still had time to ride some rides and do some holiday shopping!

But, for any time spent in Scotland, winter or sumer, time should definitely be taken to venture outside of the city limits to the Highlands.  Simply breathtaking!

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Timberbush Tours

  • http://www.timberbush-tours.co.uk/
  • West Highland Lochs, Mountains & Castles Tour, Departure/Arrival, 0915-1900
  • Cost:  Adults, £43, Children (5-16), £41, Seniors (60+), £41, Students, £41

Doune Castle

Kilchurn Castle

Inveraray Castle

  • http://www.inveraray-castle.com/
  • Address:  Inveraray Castle, Inveraray, Argyll PA32 8XE
  • Hours:  1000-1745, Monday to Sunday, March 5-October 31
  • Admission:  Adults, £10.00, Senior Citizens and Students, £9.00, Children (5-16 years), £7.00, Children (under 5 years), free, Family Ticket (2 adults, 2 children), £32.00

Luss Parish Church

  • http://lusschurch.com/
  • Address:  The Manse, Luss, Alexandria G83 8NZ, United Kingdom
  • Sunday worship:  1145

 

Palace of Holyroodhouse

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The Royal Mile, in Edinburgh, is approimately one Scots mile long and runs through the heart of Old Town.  On the highest end of the Royal Mile is Edinburgh Castle.  At the lowest, the Palace of Holyroodhouse.

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The Palace of Holyroodhouse has served as the principal residence of the Kings and Queens of Scotland since the 16th century.  The palace is the setting for state occasions, official entertaining and is home to the Queen during Holyrood week, which takes place at the end of June to the beginning of July.

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After our dash to purchase our tickets before closing time, our visit began in the Palace forecourt.  We stopped to catch our breath and admire the palace which was colorfully lit and ornamented for the Christmas holidays.

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Entering the Palace, I snapped some beautiful pictures of the courtyard before noticing the signs (much to my dismay) informing us that photography was not allowed!

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Nevertheless, we began by climbing the Great Stair which features a 17th century Baroque ceiling features plaster angels holding the Honours of Scotland.  The bannisters were decorated with beautiful garlands and we realized that we were lucky to be here during the Christmas season.

Only parts of the Palace were open to the public and we moved on from the Great Stair into the Royal Dining Room, finding that it was originally part of the Queen’s apartments.

Other parts of the palace open to the public included the King’s apartments, which encompassed the presence chamber and privy chamber (now the Evening and Morning Drawing Rooms), antechamber, bedchamber and closet.

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The suite of rooms on the first floor of the north-west tower incorporates an audience chamber and a bedroom.  These rooms were occupied by Lord Darnley, Queen Mary’s second husband, in the 17th century.  A second set of identical rooms on the second floor of the tower were occupied by Mary.  The outer chamber contains the oratory and was the site of the murder of David Rizzo, Mary’s secretary and confidante.  Many tourists are often convinced that they can see his blood stains on the floor here.

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Noticing the waning light outside, I was anxious to find the exit and explore the Holyrood Abbey.  The ruined abbey was founded n 1128 by King David I.  The abbey church acted as a parish church until the 17th century, however, fell into disrepair after the 18th century.  Wishing that the lighting would have been a little better, I was still able to get some haunting pictures of the ruins.  I almost expected the naked, stripped and tortured ghost of Bald Agnes (Agnes Sampson), who was accused of witchcraft and said to roam the palace, to appear in my photographs!

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It was the end of the day and although we had to vacate the premises, we considered ourselves fortunate to have been able to see an important part of Scottish history.

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Palace of Holyroodhouse

  • https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/visit/palace-of-holyroodhouse
  • Address:  Canongate, Edinburgh EH8 8DX, UK
  • Hours:  November 1 through March 25, 0930-1630, daily (last admission 1515).  March 26-October 31, 0930-1600, daily (last admission 1630).  Closed May 16-27 and June 27-July 8.
  • Admission:  Adults, £12.50, Over 60 / Student (with valid ID), £11.40, Over 60 / Student (with valid ID), £11.40, Under 5, free, Family ticket, £32.50 (2 adults and 3 under 17s).  Other combination tickets available.
  • Getting There:  Train via Edinburgh Waverly station.  The palace is a 15 minute walk from the station.  Bus number 6 and 35 stop near the palace.  If travelling by car, a public car park is adjacent to the palace.

 

 

 

 

 

The High Kirk of Edinburgh

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Walking on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, a distinctive crown steeple is easily discernible in the skyline…St. Giles’ Cathedral.

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The cathedral, dedicated to Saint Giles, the patron saint of Edinburgh, cripples and lepers, is the principal place of worship of the Church of Scotland and is easy to find a little more than halfway down the Royal Mile.  Known as the High Kirk of Edinburgh, the church dates back to the 14th century, though extensively restored during the 19th century.

Anxious to visit St. Giles, I had planned to stop in during the middle of the day, however, realizing that I had forgotten my SD card for my camera caused me to lose precious time during the daylight hours while running back to my hotel.  With it being wintertime and the sun setting so early in the afternoon, it was dark when I finally entered the imposing structure.

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Always having been awed by the architecture on the outside, I was equally impressed as I walked through the doors.  With soaring ceilings, arches and pulpits, the interior was quite breathtaking.

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Paying the £2 photography fee so that I could take pictures during my visit, I was a bit disappointed that it was so dark outside, which lent to the dark feeling throughout.  Another disappointment with the lack of exterior light was that the amazing stained glass windows that the church is known for and designed by the likes of Edward Burne-Jones, could not be seen displaying their beautiful colors and depictions.

What could be seen, however, are the four massive central pillars, said to date back to 1124 and the Thistle Chapel, an impressive chapel designed by Robert Lorimar and built to honor the Order of the Thistle, the great order of chivalry.  The chapel contains stalls for sixteen knights, the Sovereign’s stall and two Royal stalls.  With much to absorb, you will be enthralled for hours inspecting the religious and heraldic details, especially the carvings of the angels with bagpipes.

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Marquis of Montrose

There are many monuments and memorials located in St. Giles, including those dedicated to Scottish regiments and individuals who perished during wars and campaigns, Scottish Military Nurses during WWI, lawyers, doctors, writers and poets including a bronze memorial to Robert Louis Stevenson.  Other memorials include those to James Graham, Marquis of Montrose and his arch enemy, Archibald Campbell, Marquis of Argyll.

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Marquis of Argyll

imageInteresting to check out is the statue of John Knox, the preacher of the Scottish Reformation in 1560.  Knox was the minister of St. Giles’ until his death in 1572 when he was buried in the churchyard.  His grave was paved over and the area became known as Parliament Square.   A six foot tall, bronze statue was erected and once stood over the site of his burial in Parliament Square, but was eventually moved back into the church when it was determined that the statue was being damaged by the weather.  An engraved stone set in the pavement is now the only marker for his gravesite in the square.

St. Giles is an impressive and historic church located in the heart of Edinburgh.  Though I thoroughly enjoyed my visit to St. Giles, I do think that a return visit is in the cards for a future trip to Edinburgh…during the daylight hours!

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St. Giles Cathedral

  • http://www.stgilescathedral.org.uk/
  • Address:  Royal Mile, Edinburgh EH1 1RE
  • Sunday Mass Schedule:  0800 (Holy Communion in the Holy Cross Aisle), 1000 (Choir, Sermon, Holy Communion), 1100 (Choir, Sermon), 1800 (Program of Music), 2000 (Holy Communion on last Sunday of the month).
  • Weekday Mass Schedule:  0800 (Holy Communion on Wednesday and Friday mornings), 1200 (Daily service, Monday-Saturday)

 

 

What A Mouthful!

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Say with me, The Real Mary King’s Close.

Say it again…faster…The Real Mary King’s Close.

You may agree, it’s a bit of a tongue twister…a real mouthful!

But…what is it?

In old Edinburgh, small alleyways and courtyards led off of the Royal Mile to the north and south.  Closes had a canyon-like appearance and atmosphere;  narrow with tall buildings on both sides and were usually named after a memorable occupant of one of the apartments.

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Mary King was the daughter of advocate Alexander King, a property owner within the close.  Although it was quite unusual for a close to be named after a woman, Mary, a widowed mother of four, was a prominent businesswoman with a high standing in the town.

The closes once contained densely populated communities, which to its detriment, bolstered the spread of disease.   Harboring filthy conditions, they were eventually partially demolished and buried under the Royal Exchange.  Closed to public access for many years, the area became the subject of many myths and urban legends.  Ghost stories ran rampant, stemming from the countless victims who died within the close from the plague.

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Searching for something unusual to do in Edinburgh, I came across the The Real Mary King’s Close Tour.  Doing something I rarely do, in order to secure my spot on the tour, I booked it before I left for Edinburgh.  Heading out to the offices on the Royal Mile, I checked in for my five-thirty tour.

Greeted by a costumed character tour guide, we were escorted through the many areas, homes and streets of the close and regaled with many tales of its occupants, including Mary King.

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Interesting tales were divulged regarding how the close was named and the way its occupants lived their daily existence.  Tales of the plague and how it swept through the close, killing thousands, gave everyone a creepy feeling while walking through the dimly lit rooms and alleyways.

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imageThe most interesting stories were of murder and hauntings.  Images of disembodied limbs, child phantoms and gruesome animals have terrified many residing within and touring the close.  The most recent and famous story, however, is that of a Japanese medium visiting the close.  A little girl tugged on her coat as she left one of the rooms.  The medium looked back to see a small girl crying in the corner.  The little girl, Annie, claimed that she had died during the sickness of 1645 and told the medium of how lonely she was having lost her family, but mostly her treasured doll.  The medium, went up to the Royal Mile, purchased a doll and left it for the child.  Ever since, visitors have left dolls and other toys in the corner of the room for the little girl.

Though photos are not allowed throughout the tour due the sensitive nature of the surroundings, the tour guide will capture your photograph with an infrared camera while standing on the close, if you so wish.  You can purchase the photo in the gift shop at the end of the tour.

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Though it is touted as one of the most haunted sites in the world, I cannot say that I experienced any type of haunting while on the premises.  In fact, I did not experience any type of hauntings on my second visit, a month later with my son.  What I did experience, however, was a unique and well done tour by both tour guides with both having brought something unique to the experience and one that I would recommend highly.

Say it with me…The Real AWESOME Mary King’s Close tour!

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The Real Mary King’s Close Tour

  • http://www.realmarykingsclose.com/
  • Address:  2 Warriston’s Close, High Street, Edinburgh,  EH1 1PG
  • Hours:  1000-2100 (last tour), March 25-October 31, 1000-1700, Sunday thru Thursday and 1000-2100, Friday and Saturday, November 1-March 24
  • Admission:  Adults, £14.50, Senior (60+), £12.75, Students (with valid ID), £12.75, Child (5-15years), £8.75, Family ticket (2 adults and 2 children), £39.95

The Potter Trail

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

On my recent visit to Edinburgh, I learned some new things.  New things about Harry Potter, in fact.

Reading about the Potter Trail, a free walking tour in Edinburgh, I decided that it would be just the sort of thing that a 15 year old boy, who grew up with Harry Potter, would think was cool.  Little did I realize how much I would enjoy it!

Finding the statue of Greyfriar’s Bobby on George IV Bridge, which was the start of the tour, was a bit of a challenge.  For the “Scottish” challenged, the name threw me for a bit of a loop!  What or who was a Greyfriar’s Bobby?  And while walking down the street that I thought it was on, which changes names, where was the bridge?  After asking three kindly Scotsmen if we were headed in the right direction, we were directed to continue on a couple of blocks, although upon arrival, we would have definitely known we were there.  A large crowd had congregated around a statue of a small Skye Terrier, some wearing witch hats, round Potter-like glasses and cloaks!

imageThe Skye Terrier statue, named Bobby, is a whole other story in itself, standing on the curb in front of Greyfriar’s Bobby bar and created by William Brodie in 1872.  The best known story surrounding the dog tells a tale of a canine so devoted to his master that when his owner passed away, the dog spent the next 14 years guarding his grave until his own passing.  The statue was initially created as a drinking fountain with the upper part for humans and the lower for dogs, although the water supply was cut off many years ago.  In the nearby Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, a red granite stone was erected on Bobby’s grave in 1981 and small dog toys, flowers and sticks (for Bobby to fetch) are frequently left.

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imageFinally, after watching many people rub Bobby’s nose and dress him up for the Christmas holiday, our tour guide, Jodie, arrived…looking very much the part.  Passing out “magic” wands (to assist with our spells for stopping traffic), we set out on our way, first entering Greyfriar’s Kirkyard.  Our tour guide showed us Greyfriar’s Bobby’s gravestone and then began to give us information on the creation of Harry Potter…in Edinburgh.

This was new to me!  Though I admit, I loved the movies and the books, but I guess, for some reason, I always thought the books were written in London.  I never realized that JK Rowling was Scottish!

There in Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, we were shown the graves of people that inspired the names of two of the main characters, Professor McGonagall and the Dark Lord himself, Voldemort (Tom Riddel).  Interesting stories were shared and then we looked out of the rear gate upon the school and the uniform-clad children being dismissed, that inspired the Houses of Hogwarts; Gryffendor, Ravenclaw, Hufflepuff and Slytherin.  Here, my son was drafted from the crowd and “sorted”.

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Before we left the cemetery, we were shown the best view of the castle in all of Edinburgh.  We were told how JK Rowling sponsored a contest for young, aspiring writers.  The winners were rewarded with a visit to the Grassmarket area, transformed to look like Diagon Alley, and then on to the castle, which was “magically” converted into Hogwarts Castle.

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After leaving Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, we then went on to the Spoon Café, once known as Nicolson’s Café and the spot where JK Rowling first penned her stories about a young wizard.  We then continued on to The Elephant House, another café in which Rowling was inspired to write the early novels of Harry Potter as she sat at the rear window, looking out onto the Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, George Heriot’s School and Edinburgh Castle.  Another location famous for the Harry Potter novels is the Balmoral Hotel.  Located on Princes Street, it was not on our tour, but near to our hotel.  It was there that Rowling finished her seventh and final book, Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.

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imageContinuing on, we then visited the tunnel, Potterow Port, on the University of Edinburgh’s campus, which inspired the scene where Harry and his cousin, Dudley, were being chased by Dementors.  It has been speculated that Potterow, an area which the author sometimes frequented, may have been the inspiration for Harry’s surname.

imageLastly, we finished our tour in The Grassmarket.  This area, located in a hollow, below the Castle and Royal Mile, is a historic market place and event space in the Old Town area. The long winding street, with colorful storefronts and restaurants, will have you thinking that you are on Diagon Alley searching for your first wand.  Hey, you almost expect to see the goblins from Gringots standing on the street corner!

At the conclusion of our tour on Victoria Street, we returned our wands, tipped our tour guide and said goodbye to our short, but exciting Harry Potter adventure.  Maybe a new book could come of it…Harry Potter and the Terrific Tourists!

One of the most fascinating things I have every done in any city, I finally walked away from a tour feeling as though I really learned something.  With a newfound appreciation for the struggle and hardships that the amazing author faced, I suddenly felt the need to go home and reread all seven books!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Potter Trail Tour

  • http://pottertrail.com/
  • Address:  30-34 Candlemaker Row, Outside Greyfriars Bobby’s Bar, Edinburgh EH1 2QE
  • Hours:  Usually every Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 1500.  Check schedule on website.
  • Admission:  free walking tour, however, tips appreciated at the end of tour

Spoon Café

  • http://www.spoonedinburgh.co.uk
  • Address:  6A Nicolson Street, South Bridge, Old Town, Edinburgh, Edinburgh EH8 9DH
  • Hours:  1000-2200, Monday thru Saturday, 1000-1700, Sunday

The Elephant House

  • http://www.elephanthouse.biz
  • Address:  21 George IV Bridge, Old Town, Edinburgh, Edinburg EH1 1EN
  • Hours:  0800-2200, Monday thru Thursday, 0800-2300, Friday, 0900-2300, Saturday, 0900-1000, Sunday

 

The Castle on the Rock

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Edinburgh Castle…”the most besieged place in Great Britain and one of the most attacked in the world”.

imageAlthough the castle’s origins as a residence date back to the 12th century, with the reign of David I, Edinburgh Castle only retained a residential role until the 15th century, later transitioning into military barracks and garrison.  It was considered one of the most important strongholds in the Kingdom of Scotland and was involved in many historical conflicts.  Recent research identified 26 sieges in the castle’s 1100 year old history.

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Today, the castle proudly hosts dozens of tourists each day, each lining up to enter the well preserved fortress.  Years ago, during my first visit to Edinburgh, I spent time exploring the castle’s grounds.  Back in Edinburgh after many years, I decided that I would visit again.  During this winter afternoon, with the sun low in the sky, I didn’t realize that I would be back again in a few weeks!

For my afternoon visit, I arrived around three o’clock, and walked under the entrance gate to the ticket counter.  There were no lines and I was quickly rediscovering the castle grounds and buildings.

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A few weeks later, taking my son to Scotland for his birthday, I absolutely knew that even though I had just visited, it was something that he would undoubtedly enjoy.

On our second day, we arrived at the castle for its opening.  The sun, just coming up over the horizon, gave us spectacular views of the city.  We secured our position in the queue lined up on the castle esplanade and proceeded to the ticket counter when the gate was opened.

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imageThe castle offers many different buildings, museums and vantage points.  We began our exploration by climbing the Lang Stairs to the Argyle Tower.  Not much to see within the tower, we moved on to Mon’s Meg, the Dog Cemetery and St. Margaret’s Cathedral.

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We first observed the Cemetery for Soldier’s Dogs, the final resting place for the honored canine companions of the regimental officers.  Dating back to 1840, the grassy area is protected and only viewed from above.

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imageAdjacent to the cemetery overlook is Mon’s Meg, a medieval bombard and one of the largest cannons in the world (by caliber).  This cannon was built in 1449 as a gift to James II, King of Scots from Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy.  It was used in many sieges until the 16th century and spent some time in the Tower of London until it was returned in 1829.

imageMoving into St. Margaret’s Chapel, we found it blissfully empty.  With a surface area of only 160 square feet, it was nice not having to jockey for position with other tourists to capture nice photos and enjoy the beauty of the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh.   The 12th century chapel, was spared the wrath of Robert the Bruce when the castle was captured on March 14, 1314 and all buildings in the castle were destroyed.  The chapel, restored and now cared for by the St. Margaret’s Chapel Guild is well worth a short visit, especially for the five stained glass windows of St. Margaret of Scotland, St. Andrew, St. Columbia, St. Ninian and William Wallace, all designed by Douglas Strachan in 1922.

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Moving on, we checked out the Fore Well and the Half Moon Battery before moving past David’s Tower into Crown Square.  The buildings surrounding Crown Square consist of the Royal Palace, housing the Crown Jewels, the Great Hall, the Prisons of War Exhibition (access from the rear, outside of the square) and the Scottish National War Memorial.

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The Royal Palace, built during the mid 15th century, comprises the former royal apartments though void of furniture as other palaces are sometimes exhibited.  The most notable room is the small Birth Chamber or Mary Room, where James VI was born to Mary, Queen of Scots in June 1566.  The first floor is comprised of the Crown Room, built in 1615, to showcase the Honors of Scotland; the crown, scepter and the sword of state.  There are many pictures and displays detailing the history of Scotland’s monarchy, which eventually lead you to the area containing the protected room, which also contains the Stone of Scone, upon which the monarchs of Scotland were traditionally crowned.  No pictures are allowed in this building.

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To the north of the Royal Palace lies the Great Hall.  Thought to have been completed in the 16th century, the lengthy expanse, measuring 95 feet by 41 feet, was the chief place of state assembly in the castle.  Occasionally still used for ceremonial occasions, the room is lacking furniture but its walls are lined with impressive antique swords and suits of armor.

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imageTo the Great Hall’s south, is the Scottish National War Memorial, which occupies a converted barrack block and stands on the site of the Medieval St. Mary’s Church.  When entering the building, pay note to the gargoyles and sculpture that decorate the exterior.  The interior is a long massive space, with a high vaulted ceiling, stained glass windows (designed by Douglas Strachan) and monuments commemorating Scottish soldiers; those who served with the Scottish regiments and those who died in the two world wars and in recent conflicts.  On an altar within the Shrine (placed on the highest point of the Castle Rock) rests a sealed casket containing Rolls of Honour which list over 147,000 names of those soldiers killed in the First World War.  Another 50,000 names were inscribed on Rolls of Honour and line the walls of the main hall.  No pictures are allowed within the building.

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Exiting Crown Square, we made our way to the Prisons of War Exhibition.  This exhibition displays some interesting pieces of history, including doors inscribed with the names of past prisoners as well as a walk-thru mock-up of prison quarters.

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Across from the Prisons of War Exhibition is the Military Prison.  Reconstructed cells give us the impression of the conditions prisoners dealt with daily. The upgraded conditions display what was at the time an example of enlightened prison reform.

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Two adjacent museums, the Royal Scots Regimental Museum and the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards Regimental Museum are open daily and included with your admission to the castle.  Both are interesting if you are into military history and worth a quick look around even if you are not.

The Royal Scots Regimental Museum offers over 300 years of history of the only Scottish cavalry regiment in the British regular Army.  It showcases a large medal display (so large that only a selection is on view), collections of silver, sets of drums, descriptions of contemporary life in the Army and significant national and world events of the relevant period.

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imageThe Royal Scots Dragoon Guards Regimental Museum features a large offering of weapons, uniforms, medals and paintings which portray the story of the past regiments that formed or were associated with the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards, including 3rd Dragoons Guards (Prince of Wale’s Own), 6th Dragoon Guards (The Carabiniers), 3rd Carabiniers (Prince of Wale’s Dragoon Guards), the Royal Scots Greys (2nd Dragoons) and 25th Dragoons.

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imageAfter leaving these two museums, we walked past the Governor’s House and turned left to the entrance of National War Museum.  The story of Scotland at war is told here along with the story of the battles that were lost and won.  Many military artifacts and personal treasures are on display.  Again, this museum is free with your entrance ticket to the castle and is worth a look around.  By this point in the day, however, we were getting a bit tired of the museum setting and hungry, so we made it a quick visit.

Our last visit was one that we would be able to not only see, but hear…the One O’clock Gun.  The origins of the firing of the gun stem from the days before accurate timepieces were available.  Ships sailing in the Firth of Forth were able to check and reset their chronometers by the firing of a gun at one o’clock each day.  The gun could easily be heard in the harbor, two miles away.  Today, the gun is not longer required for its original purpose but it has become a popular tourist attraction at the north face of the castle.  We stopped for a quick peek at the 25 pound Howitzer, however, unfortunately, we were not on the premises during the firing.  We left the castle not long after taking in the views from the Argyle Battery.  As we were finishing our lunch, we heard the One O’clock Gun being fired in the distance.

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Our trip to the Edinburgh Castle was a wonderful way to learn the history of the city.  The most famous icon of Scotland is not the most besieged place in Great Britain or the most attacked place in the world any longer.  It is Scotland’s number one paid-for tourist attraction and should be the first stop for any visitor to the Scottish city.

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Edinburgh Castle

  • http://www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk/
  • Address:  The Castle, Edinburgh EH1 2YT
  • Hours:  0930-1800, April 1 thru September 30, 0930-1700, October 1 thru March 31, Closed December 25 and 26, 1100-1700, January 1
  • Admission:  Adults, £16.50, Children 0-15, £9.50, Concessions (60+ and unemployed), £13.50

Royal Scots Dragoon Guard Regimental Museum

  • https://www.scotsdgmuseum.com/
  • Address: The Castle, Edinburgh EH1 2YT
  • Hours:  0930-1615, October 1 thru Easter, 0930-1715, Easter thru September 30

Royal Scots Regimental Museum

  • http://www.theroyalscots.co.uk/museum/
  • Address:  Edinburgh Castle, Castle Hill, Castlehill Edinburgh Eh12Ng, Edinburgh EH2NG
  • Hours:  0930-1700, Monday thru Friday (summer), 0930-1730, Saturday and Sunday (summer), 0930-1600, Monday thru Friday (winter), 0930-1630, Saturday and Sunday (winter)

National War Museum

  • http://www.nms.ac.uk/national-war-museum/
  • Address:  Edinburgh Castle, Edinburgh EH1 2NG
  • Hours:  0945-1745, April 1 thru September 30, 0945-1645, 0ctober 1 thru March 31, Closed December 25 and 26, 1100-1700, January 1

edinburgh-castle-map

 

Brussels…Beyond Words

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Brussels has a quiet beauty.

When you walk around the city, there are magnificent buildings all around you. Unlike other European cities, however, it’s not an in-your-face kind of grandeur.

Since it doesn’t jump out at you, time should be taken to stop and inspect each and every building, especially when in the Grand Place, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998.  The details are just amazing!

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Spend some time walking around the city without a map.  There are lesser known areas that sometimes get overlooked because everyone concentrates on the Grand Place and Mannekin Pis.  Walking around searching for new boots on my last trip (my zipper broke on the ones I brought), I stumbled upon Place des Martyr’s.

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imagePlace des Martyr’s or Martyr’s Square is a square in the center of Brussels dedicated to the days of the Belgian Revolution of 1830 and those who lost their lives.  A monument and crypt stand in the middles of the square and contain the bodies of 400 heroes from the revolution, many of which lie not far from where they were shot during the battles fought in the streets of Brussels.

In addition, the Flemish government cabinet offices are located around the square and are quite beautiful in their symmetry, laid out in the uniform neoclassical style in the years 1774-1778.

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imageYou will also notice not-so-historical things on your walk through Brussels.  Although you can visit the Musee Magritte or Belgian Comic Strip Center, both located in the heart of Brussels, some pieces of art reside on the sides of buildings, on garage doors  and on metro walls.  There are some exciting street artists residing in Brussels and their masterpieces will surprise and delight!

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Other things that are unique to Brussels are the indoor shopping galleries.  The first indoor malls, these glass covered promenades host restaurants, chocolate shops and high end stores for fashionistas.

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imageLastly, eat, drink and be merry!  Belgium is known for some of the best beer, chocolate and waffles!  Visit Delirium Monasterium, considered the temple of Belgian beer, serving countless selections of beers from over 60 countries.  Relax at the bar and let the bartender choose a flight of beers for you to try!  You won’t be disappointed…but maybe a little tipsy!

imageFor more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

 

Delirium Monasterium

  • http://www.deliriumvillage.com/
  • Address:  Impasse de la Fidelite 4 | Getrouwheidsgang, Brussels
  • Hours:  Monday thru Saturday, 1000-0400, Sunday, 1000-0200