The Palm Canyons

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

A text woke me early in the morning.

It was my friend Judy. She had seen my Facebook posts stating that I was in Palm Springs.

Her text:

You have to go to Indian Canyon. 38520 S. Palm Canyon Drive. Do NOT miss this!

Judy has a love for travel…just like me. When she says to do something, I do it! Her recommendations are always spot on!

In the morning, I had headed north to seek out Pioneertown and the Desert Christ Park. Finishing my explorations just after noon, I calculated how fast I could get back to town and then checked the level of the sun. Knowing how much faster daylight wans in the canyon areas, I needed to step it up!

When I arrived at the entrance, I spoke with the ranger, confirming that I was in the right place. When I had texted Judy to see what I needed to see and do at Indian Canyon, her response was “Oldest palms in America.” So…I asked the ranger where I should go to see the oldest palms.

What I did not understand was that Indian Canyon has three different areas, Palm Canyon, Andreas Canyon and Murray Canyon. The ranger recommended that if I wanted to see the ancient Washingtonia filiferas (California Fan Palm), I should head to Palm Canyon and then Andreas Canyon.

The drive to Palm Canyon wasn’t extremely long, but was very picturesque. Some abandoned buildings caught my eye and I quickly stopped to snap a few pictures. A short distance later, I caught sight of an amazing rock formation that apparently blocked the roadway before it was built. Some blasting was obviously involved and created a stunning piece of natural architecture to drive through!

Just past this area, I got my first sightings of the palms that this area was known for growing along a small stream. A few zig zags up the cliff and I pulled into the parking area. Spotting a couple of rangers, I quizzed them for some intel and was guided down the narrow path toward the canyon floor.

My first glimpse of the palm grove was breathtaking! Their appearance amid the stark rocky gorges and barren desert land was not quite what I expected and the first thought that came to mind was Egypt. I remember vividly the oases that we had driven past many years ago while visiting the pyramids and surrounding archeological areas.

The path to the canyon floor was a bit steep, but I had no problem making my way down. Following the rangers’ advice, I walked amidst the giant palms, stopping near the stream for some interesting photos and to inspect some of the Cahuilla Indian huts, while noting that it would be a nice spot to have lunch on one of the picnic tables under the shade of the palms. While the canyon is fifteen miles long, I decided to only hike for a short distance since I was alone and I also wanted to visit Andreas Canyon. After my trip back to the top, I stopped into the Trading Post to inspect the Indian art, artifact, books, jewelry, pottery, baskets and weaving…and let’s not forget…a bathroom break!

Driving back the way that I had come, I neared the entrance station, but at the traffic circle, I followed the signs to Andreas Canyon.

Finding a parking lot that spanned both sides of a small creek, I discovered that the Andreas Canyon Trail ventured out from both ends of the parking lot. I passed a couple more of the Cahuilla Indian huts before heading out on the mile-long loop. The sun was getting low in the sky but still highlighting many of the tall rock formations which was simply spectacular! The trail was fairly easy and I was alone for a good part of my hike. Eventually, I came to a small bridge spanning the Andreas Creek and then the hike became more rocky with the high rock wall stretching up to my left. The small, clear stream gurgled to my right and I imagined that during a hot summer day, it would be a great place to cool off your feet. Andreas Canyon had more than 150 species of plants in addition to its own palms within it lush oasis.

Since the daylight was growing dim (and I had dinner plans to dress for), I decided that Murray Canyon would have to wait for a future visit. This is the canyon where there are many equestrian trails and of course, more palms. Although this canyon is less frequented by hikers, it is the one where the endangered Big Horn Sheep, mule deer and other wild animals might be spotted on the higher ground.

When I had first decided to visit Palm Springs, I had vowed to do some hiking.

Thanks to Judy, I got to do that and enjoy some of Palm Springs natural beauty!

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Indian Canyons

  • https://www.indian-canyons.com/indian_canyons
  • Address: 38520 S. Palm Canyon Dr. Palm Springs, California
  • Hours: October 1-July 4, 0800-1700, daily. July 5 – September 30, 0800-1700, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Last vehicle in at 1600. No animals allowed.
  • Admission: Adults, $12.00, Seniors 62+, $7.00, Students, $7.00 (with student ID), Children (ages 6-12), $6.00, Military (with ID), free, Equestrian, $11.00, Annual Pass, $125.00. Equestrian Annual Pass, $150.00.

Wondrous Windmills

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While driving along Interstate 10, through the San Gorgonio Mountain Pass in the San Bernadino Mountains, you can’t miss the white giants.

The windmills.

While I was not interested in doing a formal tour, of which many different ones are offered, I did want to see these colossal turbines from a little closer perspective.

First encountering the windmills while driving along Indian Canyon Drive and heading to Joshua Tree National Park, I marveled at their size and stark contrast to the barren desert landscape. Since I did not have the time to stop and photograph the rows of white windmills at the time, I vowed to find a place to pull-off of the road on my way back and again, the next morning, for varying looks and lighting.

The Palm Springs wind farm was opened in 1982 and was destined to harness the natural wind from the San Gorgonio Pass, the gap between Southern California’s two highest mountains, a natural wind tunnel. Winds here have reached 80 miles per hour and generate enough power for 300,000 homes in Palm Springs and the Coachella Valley.

The windmills were installed at a cost of $300,000 each and are two-bladed turbines that require wind speeds of at least 13 miles per hour. They stand 328 feet tall and their blades are as long as half of an American football field (150 feet)!

As I had vowed, upon my return to Palm Springs that afternoon, I pulled onto a side road and captured an amazing photo with the sun slinking down behind the mountains. It was a spectacular sight!

The next morning, with the bright early sun aiming from the opposite direction as the previous day, I realized the opportunity for contrastive photographs. While traveling on Indian Canyon Road, just before Interstate 10, I spotted a sandy road with a sign directing travelers to the Amtrak Station. An empty parking lot gave me ample opportunity to gaze out at these skyward reaching towers adjacent to the station.

A short distance past the interstate, there were numerous side roads upon which I was able to pull my car onto and take more photographs. Although I wasn’t able to get extremely close, learn about the area’s geology, the development, design and evolution of wind turbines or see some of the older models or some of the windmill tops on the ground in the equipment yard as you would during one of the formal tours, I think that the drive through many of the back roads gave me the photo opportunities that I was seeking. There’s always Google for everything else, right?

While I enjoyed these spectacular views, they seemed quite familiar. I knew that I had seen countless older-styled windmills in the Netherlands and occasionally new ones such as these, but I had seen these particular ones and this landscape somewhere else.

Mission Impossible 3, with Tom Cruise was shot in this area. Remember the helicopter chase?

Go chase’em on your own or with a tour! Worth seeing!

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Palm Springs Wind Farms

Short End of the…Tree

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When planning my trip to Palm Springs, I was rattling off a list of some of the places and attractions that I had hoped to visit.

While I am pretty adept at discovering everything there is to see and do in a city, I had missed one.

Joshua Tree National Park.

It was my middle son who mentioned that I should venture out into the desert to see this national treasure.

Elevated to National Park status in 1994, Joshua Tree is located one hour east of Palm Springs and approximately three hours from San Diego, Los Angeles and Phoenix…very easy to get to one of the park’s three entrances from any of these cities.

About a year ago, I had visited the Badlands National Park. It was one of the most amazing experiences I have ever had with each part of the park offering something totally different and I expected the same thing from Joshua Tree.

Dating back to 1936, when Minerva Hoyt, a Pasadena resident tirelessly worked to protect the cacti and other plants of the area, 825,000 acres were set aside as the Joshua Tree National Monument. With its large population of Joshua trees…the tree that mid-19th century Mormons believed to look like the biblical figure Joshua with his outstretched arms (tree’s limbs) guiding them westward…visitors are reminded through exhibits within its Visitor Centers of the role it played in helping homesteaders succeed in building and establishing their new lands. Well paved roads, scenic overlooks and well-maintained trails attract those near and far…Joshua Tree National Park brings in over two million visitors from all over the world each year.

Joshua Tree National Park Visitor Center

While of course, I expected to see a LOT of Joshua Trees…I wasn’t sure what else I might see.

Probably desert.

Probably rocks.

Probably trails.

Yes, they were all there. But as beautiful as the scenery was, I expected a little more.

Okay, you can hate me for that. But…I kept remembering the Badlands with its spires, its rainbow colored hills, its bison herds, Prairie Dog town, thousands of valley overlooks.

There is no doubt that I thought it a stunning and diverse place and I enjoyed the few hours we spent there. And…maybe that was the problem. We only spent about four hours in total driving through the park, as my travel companions had to be back in Palm Springs for an event later in the day. We made the most of our time in the park, examining the exhibits at the Joshua Tree Visitor Center near the West Entrance, climbing the rocks at Hidden Valley, gazing out of the Coachella Valley from Keys View, a little hiking at the Hall of Horrors and a longer hike to Skull Rock from Jumbo Rocks campground before exiting at the North Entrance near Twenty Nine Palms…all while constantly keeping an eye on our progress through the park and on our watches.

Our first views of Joshua Tree National Park after the West Entrance Station.
Hidden Valley
Hidden Valley
Keys View
Keys View
Keys View
Keys View
Cap Rock
Big Trees Trail
Big Trees Trail
Big Trees Trail
Hall of Horrors
Hall of Horrors
Hall of Horrors
Skull Rock Nature Trail
Skull Rock Nature Trail
Skull Rock
Skull Rock and Nature Trail

Those four hours paled in comparison to my entire day in the Badlands. There, I was one of a handful in the park due to it being extremely cold that winter day and I was alone in my car. Don’t ever discount being alone in a National Park! While I chose to not do any lengthy hikes because I was solo, I did do some short ones and I stopped whenever and wherever I felt like it to take thousands of photos! There was nothing keeping me from returning to Rapid City except the darkness at the end of the day.

SO…would I go back to Joshua Tree? Yes, absolutely! But this time with much more time to explore! It is a great place to enjoy hiking, camping and the great outdoors. It’s perfect for solo adventurers, groups and even for families! Much like us, children will love spotting formations in the rocks that looks like other things.

Can you spot the snake?
Can you spot the shark and the dog?
Can you spot the four sharks?
Sleeping giant on the hillside?
His name must be Rocky!
Yep…I won’t highlight this one. Definitely not for children!

I feel a little like I got the short end of the stick…er…tree.

Next time, I want to have sufficient time to truly experience this natural wonder, see some of the historical places in the park like the Kellogg House and Keys Ranch, hike to the Wall Street Mill and Desert Queen Mine and go back to see the fascinating Skull Rock…but this time, do it the easy way…park along the road and walk the few feet to the rock! Next time, I want to stay in the Yucca Valley so that I would be near the entrances for an early start. Next time I want to visit the Cholla Cactus Garden!

Next time!

Next time…more time!!!

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Joshua Tree National Park

  • https://www.nps.gov/jotr
  • Address: 74485 National Park Drive, Twentynine Palms, California 92277-3597
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: Single, non-commercial vehicles, $30 (7-day permit). Motorcycles, $25 (7-day permit). Individual on foot or bike, $15 (7-day permit). Joshua Tree National Park Annual Pass, $55, valid for 12 months from the month of purchase and covers the entrance fee for the signee and accompanying passengers entering in a single, non-commercial vehicle. Can be purchased at park entrance stations and visitor centers.

The Unwanted Christ

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Some of the best times are to be had at of the most prominent attractions in certain cities.

Would you ever visit Paris without visiting the Eiffel Tower?

But sometimes, it’s the lesser-known attractions that beckon me. Yes, I would never miss the Eiffel Tower, but you’ll also find me at the Sewer Museum…did you even know there was one in Paris?

After a day of driving around Joshua Tree National Park, I was searching for something else to occupy my time. There were many attractions to experience in the Palm Springs area, but I had learned of a quirky attraction out in the desert.

The Desert Christ Park.

Entrance Gates

From Palm Springs, it is a short drive along Highway 62 to Yucca Valley, the town named after the yucca palm or as many know it, the Joshua Tree. Not far from the main road, I found the park’s entrance next to the Living Hope Church.

While most people (like myself), imagine that the park is affiliated with the church next door, I learned very quickly that it is not.

After parking my car, I discovered a park volunteer sitting at a picnic table painting bricks with names. Friendly and welcoming, she directed me to the kiosk to learn a bit about the park’s history, however, quite the talkative individual, she gave me a brief overview.

Desert Christ Park was established in 1951 with the collaboration of Reverend Eddie Garver and sculptor, Antone Martin. Martin, an engineer from Inglewood, California, decided to create statues of Christ out of steel-reinforced concrete. After designing a 10-foot, five ton “resurrected Christ” he planned to install it on the rim of the Grand Canyon as a symbol of peace to all mankind…the government decided otherwise. Searching for an alternate location, he was offered a place on Reverend Garver’s five acres on the southern facing slope of the valley. Since the Reverend’s vision was to create a Christian-themed park, this was the first step in achieving that dream.

The “unwanted” Resurrected Christ was brought to its current location one week before Easter in 1951 and the Desert Christ Park was dedicated on Easter Sunday. More snow-white sculptures, portraying scenes of Christ’s life and teachings, followed during the next ten years, including a three-story, 125-ton facade depicting the Last Supper. While the first three statues (the “unwanted” Christ, the Tomb and the Last Supper) were placed in the area behind what is now the Living Hope Church, the remaining statues were relocated next door to the present day park.

After finishing my conversation with the nice volunteer, I made my way through the park, enjoying each of the setting’s statues. The pearl-colored effigies against the bright azure sky and yellow desert sand were a stark contrast, yet, as I stood amongst them, I realized how quiet and peaceful the entire environment was. Only the sound of birds in the trees, their branches brimming with small, hanging birdhouses, filled the air, until the crunch of sand beneath my feet sounded as I walked between the scenarios.

The Last Supper
Matthew 26:17-30

When the evening came of Christ’s last supper, Jesus was reclining at the table with the Twelve. And while they were eating, he said, “Truly I tell you, one of you will betray me.”
The Last Supper
The Last Supper
Garden Of Gethsemane
In the “Garden of Gethsemane,” on the hillside, Jesus kneels in prayer before his crucifixion, while his disciples Peter, James, and John slept.
Samaritan Woman At The Well
John 4:4-26
Jesus reveals himself to the Samaritan woman at Jacob’s well.
Sermon On The Mount
Matthew 5:1-16
This is the most famous sermon Jesus gave including his teachings.
Blessing Of The Children
Mark 10:13-16
Jesus took the children in his arms, put his hand upon them and blessed them.
Blessing of the Children
Let The Children Come To Me
Mark 10:13-16

People were bringing little children to Jesus for him to place his hands on them, but the disciples rebuked them. When Jesus saw this, he was indignant. He said to them, “Let the little children come to me, and do not hinder them, for the kingdom of God belongs to such as these. Truly I tell you, anyone who will not receive the kingdom of God like a little child will never enter it.” And he took the children in his arms, placed his hands on them and blessed them.
Jesus Visits With Mary And Martha
Luke 10:38-42

Jesus visited; Mary listened to Jesus while Martha prepared food. Martha complained about doing so much while Mary was not and Jesus said to her that learning his teachings was more important and wouldn’t be forgotten.
Jesus Visits With Mary And Martha
 Christ’s Blessing Of Mankind
With upraised hands, Christ is blessing all the people.

Finally, I made my way behind the church. As I gazed upward toward the acclaimed “unwanted Christ” sitting high on the hill, I decided that I was going to take a closer look. Noting the semblances of trails leading up to the statue, I resolved to find the best one amid the loose gravel and scrub. With a little perseverance, I finally stood at Christ’s base, contemplating his outstretched hands, while he admired the beauty of his creation in the valley below!

Christ’s Ascension
Luke 24: 50-53

Jesus lifted up his hands and blessed the Disciples, then began rising into the sky, and went into heaven.

At the base of the hill, I observed the “Tomb” which is a depiction of the resurrection of Christ. Three statues stand outside the Jesus’ vacated tomb and an armless Mary Magdalene stands in disbelief inside the vault.

Tomb Of Christ
Mark 16:1-7

When the Sabbath was over, Mary Magdalene, Mary the mother of James, and Salome brought spices so that they might go anoint Jesus’ body. An Angel Proclaimed “He is risen.”
Tomb Of Christ

Nearby, the Rock Chapel, designed by Frank Garske in 1954, captured my attention. In the shape of a star, the chapel is constructed of large, native stones. A sign on the door refers visitors desiring to use the chapel, to contact officials at the Desert Christ Park or the Living Hope Church for admission. Because of unauthorized use and disrespect, the doors remain locked, even during the park’s opening hours, however, I was able to slide my phone through the crack between the doors and snap a photo of its modest interior.

The Rock Chapel
The Rock Chapel

The park is operated through donations, grants and the work of volunteers. As I walked through the garden, I discovered what the bricks being painted by the volunteer, that I had encountered at the beginning of my visit, were used for. Used to line some of the walkways, the bricks highlight the names of those who patronize the facility. Overall, the park’s grounds are kept up, but the statues are showing some signs of wear, due to being exposed to the elements and the earthquake of 1992. Regardless, Desert Christ Park attracts thousands each year for personal walks, weddings, picnics, photography or to simply experience its peace.

Peace…that was Antone Martin’s sole desire when he sculpted that first statue.

The Unwanted Christ.

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Desert Christ Park

  • https://www.desertchristpark.org/
  • Address: 56200 Sunnyslope Drive, Yucca Valley, California 92284
  • Hours: Sunrise to sunset, approximately 0700-1800, daily
  • Admission: free, donations accepted

The Wild, Wild West

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Saturday afternoons were for westerns.

Bonanza (1959 to 1973), Gunsmoke (1955-1975) and Rawhide (1959-1966), were some of my favorites. They were preceded by countless of other popular movies and series, set during a time where cowboys, Indians, outlaws and sheriffs ruled the land.

When Hollywood began searching for a “living, breathing movie set”, 32,000 acres in the California desert near Palm Springs was deemed the perfect location. Investors, including Roy Rogers, Dale Evans, Dick Curtis and Bud Abbott, incorporated the land which became known as Pioneertown.

The town, easily accessible from Los Angeles, served as a filming location, vacation destination and residence for those working in the entertainment industry. The structures built on Mane Street were fully functional and included a grocery store, saloon, restaurant, motel, beauty shop, bowling center and shooting gallery. More than fifty films and serials were filmed in Pioneertown during the 1940s and 1950s, including the popular Gene Autry Show, the Cisco Kid television series (1950-1956), Annie Oakley television series (1954-1957) and The Adventures of Judge Roy Bean (1955-1956) and it wasn’t uncommon for two separate movies to be shooting on opposite sides of the street.

Pioneertown Mane Street

Being such a short distance from Palm Springs, I decided to make the drive to see what Pioneertown was all about in a day and age when westerns are no longer all the rage. Though I anticipated some authentic-looking buildings, much like the few I had encountered while in the small towns of South Dakota, I was really surprised by the number of buildings which comprised the town and its credibility.

Film Museum and Trading Post

As I arrived a bit early in the morning, I discovered that I was one of only three people wandering the dusty main street, Mane Street. Beginning in the Film Museum and Trading Post, I marveled at the collection of memorabilia on display and watched the film which narrated the story of this historic town.

Film Museum and Trading Post
Trading Post

Walking west on the north side of the street, I photographed and inspected each of the buildings and businesses that occupied their spaces…the General Mercantile and its souvenirs, the Pottery and its artwork and the Chapel, which to my dismay, was locked. There were weathered wagons, rusty mine cars and remnants of old machinery littering the street as well as a few artful pieces.

General Mercantile
General Mercantile
Pottery
Pottery
Pioneertown Chapel

To say that the residents of Pioneertown have a bit of humor is an understatement. Barrel cactuses wearing sunglasses and quirky signage was prominent, but they really fooled me near the Mercantile. My curiosity got the best of me as I saw a barrel, covered with mesh wire and topped with the sign, “Warning! Baby Rattlers”. I half-expected to see small snakes slithering around the bottom, but that seemed like such a hazard…instead, the bottom was lined with baby rattles…yes, the kind baby’s like to shake!!!

As I approached the Bath House and Hotel, I stepped onto the boardwalk, I and passed the Bank and the Livery. Many buildings were inaccessible as they were now private residences. At the end of Mane Street, I stopped to inspect the town’s Ok Corral, the Sheriff’s Office and the U.S. Post Office, said to be the most photographed branch in the United States.

Pioneertown Ok Corral
Pioneertown Post Office and Sheriff’s Office

I made my way back up the south side of the street, I noticed that more visitors were making their way amongst the buildings. Although still eerily quiet, it must have been quite the site during its prime to see horses hitched to their posts and gunslingers ready for duel…of course with cameras recording!

Pioneertown Residences
Pioneertown Residences
Pioneertown Residences
Pioneertown Residences

Approaching the Hay and Feed Store (53585 Mane Street), I learned that this was the location of the current sound stage. Today, though not in the capacity as it was started, the town still functions as a production set where movies, independent films, music videos and commercials are filmed quite regularly. Some of the more familiar titles you might recognize are Ice Cube’s I Rep That West Music video (2010), Kenny Roger’s The Gambler (2014), Cyndi Lauper’s Funnel of Love music video (2016) and Ingrid Goes West (2017), which I had actually seen!

Pioneertown Sound Stage
Pioneertown Sound Stage

Finally, I completed my walk and headed to the Pappy + Harriet’s Grill for a bite to eat. Sadly, I was visiting on a day in which it was closed, but there was still a few more things to see. The Wild West and Stunt Show arena was closed but I was able to peek through the fence to see its primitive hay bale seats and old west architectural set. A little further, I spotted the Pioneertown Motel…the perfect spot to spend to live out my cowgirl fantasy…horseback riding by day, marshmallows by the campfire and a short stumble home from the Red Dog Saloon!

Pioneertown Motel
Pioneertown Motel

Though the original intent of Pioneertown is much different than what it has evolved into, it is now a destination where regular folk can live out their cowboy fantasies in the Wild, Wild West…whether for the day, the night, or as the residents do…for a lifetime!

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Pioneertown

  • https://visitpioneertown.com/
  • Address: 53626 Mane St, Pioneertown, California, USA 92268
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: From downtown Palm Springs. Head north on Indian Canyon Drive past Interstate 10. Turn right onto CA-62 E and continue for 13 miles. Turn right onto Pioneertown Road and drive for 4.4 miles. Pioneertown will be on the right with parking behind Pappy + Harriet’s Grill.

Not Taking Art For Granted

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Exploration of Chicago’s Grant Park is something that every tourist in Chicago undertakes at some point during their visit.

Me included!

Filled with important sculptural works and wide-open spaces, it is where Chicagoans head to enjoy the great outdoors.

My first full day in the Windy City was a beautiful one! The sun was shining, the sky was blue, and it was definitely not windy! My husband and I decided to head to Grant Park to see the many landmarks that dot the landscape and evoke fervor from its visitors.

Knowing there were many things to see and so many access points to the park, we decided to simply work our way from north to south. Entering from Maggie Daley Park, we walked through the Cancer Survivor’s Garden, with its open metal pavilion flanked by two forty-foot-tall granite columns, set up to greet visitors and invite them to stroll through its beautifully landscaped paths. This garden has spectacular views of Lake Michigan and was designed to be a celebration of life and hope for the survivors and those afflicted with cancer. It is a popular location for weddings and other special events and attracts those interested in ice skating during the winter, to its rink, and children seeking out a place to let off steam, year round, in its well-equipped playground.

To the west, we spied one of the city’s most iconic landmarks…the Cloud Gate in Millennium Park. A piece of fascinating sculpture, affectionately known as “The Bean”, it allows views of the city from its many mirrored sides. The stainless steel piece of artwork was designed by British artist Sir Anish Kapoor and installed in 2004. It is one of the most famous symbols of the city and definitely one of the most photographed.

The Cloud Gate

Not far away, we spied the Crown Fountain through the tree line. Another of the city’s interesting sculptural pieces, it was designed by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa and consists of two 50-foot glass block towers at the end of a shallow reflecting pool. The towers project video images of Chicago citizens with water flowing through an outlet in the proximity of their mouths. It is a great place for cooling off in the hottest months of the year!

The Crown Fountain

Continuing our walk south, we encountered the Clarence F. Buckingham Fountain, one of the park’s art pieces that I was most excited to see. One of the world’s largest fountains, dedicated in 1927, it was inspired by the Latona Fountain at the Palace of Versailles, which I had seen on one of my visits to France. Sadly, it was not operating. Not sure if it was the time of the year or if it was shut off due to Covid, it was a huge disappointment. We were, however, able to see some of the smaller fountains that surround the Buckingham Fountain…Fisher Boy, Crane Girl, Turtle Boy and Dove Girl…one pair north and one pair south. These fountains were designed by Leonard Crunelle and were originally part of an exhibit at Humboldt Park. In 1964, they were installed in their current location.

Buckingham Fountain
Clockwise from top left, Fisher Boy, Crane Girl, Turtle Boy, Dove Girl

Heading west to Congress Plaza, we encountered the Equestrian Indians, two bronze equestrian sculptures which act as gatekeepers to the park. Known as The Bowman and The Spearman, they were created in Zagreb by Croatian sculptor Ivan Meštrović and installed in 1928.

The Bowman and The Spearman

Walking through the Formal Gardens to the southernmost end of the park, we finally ended up at the sculptural group that I most wanted to see, The Agora. Consisting of 106 headless figures, these bronze, steel and iron effigies, designed by Magdalena Abakanowicz, was installed in 2006. The figures are posed as if walking in multiple directions or standing still and seemingly invite visitors to pose with them (which I did, of course). In ancient Greece, the Agora was the central meeting place in its villages and cities…this final piece is the perfect addition to Grant Park. As the ancient Agora attracted people to meet, visit and learn, so does this newest addition to the park.

The Agora
The Agora

Grabbing rental bikes for our exit, we finally had the opportunity to experience the wind in our hair! As we rode past these amazing works of art again, seeing them in a much different light, we realized that although there are so many things to see in Chicago, these ones that people walk past every day, are not ones to be taken for granted!

Other Chicago locations: Navy Pier
Other art and architecture in Chicago

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Maggie Daley Park

The Cloud Gate

  • Address: 201 E. Randolph Street, Chicago, Illinois 60602
  • Hours: daily, 0600-2300
  • Admission: free

Crown Fountain

  • Address: 201 E. Randolph Street, Chicago, Illinois 60601
  • Hours: daily, 0600-2300
  • Admission: free

Clarence F. Buckingham Fountain

The Bowman and The Spearman

  • Address: S. Michigan Avenue, Chicago, Illinois 60605
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

The Agora

The Amazing Water Tower

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One of my favorite television programs is The Amazing Race.

Obviously!

Anyone who knows me knows that my passion is seeing and photographing the world and this show epitomizes travel and highlights some of the most iconic landmarks in the world. Some of my best travel ideas have come from watching the show and of course, I would love to one day compete!

On seasons 6 (2004) and 29 (2107), the Chicago Water Tower was featured in the finales of the Amazing Race. It seemed quite familiar to me as I walked by its location in Jane M. Byrne Plaza (named after the former Chicago mayor), on the way to my hotel, but it took a little research to realize why it had sparked my curiosity.

The Chicago Water Tower, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, was built in 1869 by architect William W. Boyington. It doesn’t appear to be the usual type of tower seen in most cities; designed to blend in with the nearby architecture and enclose the tall machinery of a powerful water pump which was intended to draw water from Lake Michigan.

When much of the city burned during the Great Chicago Fire of 1871, the water tower miraculously survived along with a few other structures in the area. In the years since the fire, the tower has become a symbol of old Chicago and the city’s recovery.

The second oldest water tower in the United States now operates as a Chicago Office of Tourism and as a small art gallery known as the City Gallery in the Historic Water Tower. While not acting as the finish line for television races or the inspiration for fast food restaurants (think White Castle), the gallery features the work of local photographers, artists and filmmakers and draws tourists to the Windy City for a look at a piece of the city’s historical architecture.

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The Chicago Water Tower

Chi-Town Chinatown

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My first visit to a Chinatown was in San Francisco as a new flight attendant. Although I had never been to China, in my mind this was pretty close to what I expected it to look like. Hours of my layovers were spent wandering the streets and shops, hoping one day to see the real thing when I would be senior enough to hold those trips.

Over the years, I have traveled the world and there have been multiple visits to Chinatowns throughout…New York, Washington, D.C., Milan, London, Havana, Manchester, Amsterdam…each unique in their own right, but all brimming with restaurants offering mouthwatering delicacies, shops selling everything from antiquities to dime-store trinkets and streets filled with Chinese architecture, signs and lanterns. I still love spending time in these neighborhoods and continue to seek them out whenever possible.

A friend’s retirement party brought me to Chicago one weekend this past spring. Though I had been through O’Hare airport many years ago, I had never been to the downtown area. Eager to see its highlights, I set out early. I had discovered that Chicago had a unique Chinatown and I headed in that direction with a stop at the Shedd Aquarium along the way. It was a cold and drizzly day and I huddled against the brisk wind blowing in from the lake, making my way through Grant Park, only to find an extensive line at the aquarium and a sign stating that reservations were required and no longer available.

John G. Shedd Aquarium
John G. Shedd Aquarium

Despite this disappointment, I pushed on and continued my walk along the harbor, passing Soldier Field and inspecting the bronze statues of Hall of Famers Walter Payton and team founder/former coach George Halas at the south entrance. It would have been interesting to take a tour of the Chicago Bears’ home field or take in a game, if it had been football season, but I really wanted to experience Chi-Town’s Chinatown.

Soldier Field
Statues of Chicago Bear’s Hall of Famers Walter Payton and George Halas

First encountering the crimson-hued entrance to Ping Tom Memorial Park with its beautiful Chinese-style pavilion, I then spied the Chinatown gateway at the intersection of S. Wentworth Avenue and Cermak Road. The colorful gate, a prominent display at most Chinatowns entrances, was constructed in 1975 and meant to act as a symbol of unity for the Chinese. As I walked beneath this massive structure, designed by Peter Fung, I was struck by the simplicity of its design and rich-toned hues that reflected its origins.

Ping Tom Memorial
Chinese-Style Pavilion in Ping Tom Park
Chicago’s Chinatown

Chicago’s Chinatown was first established in 1869 when immigrants began to arrive from San Francisco with the completion of the First Transcontinental Railroad. With no work to be found after the railroad’s opportunities were exhausted, the Chinese fled to other areas within the United States which were more accessible than the discriminative west coast. By the late 1800s, a large portion of the city’s Chinese residents had settled in the area which is now Chinatown and after the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, more arrived in droves.

Butcher shops, restaurants, gambling houses, Christian mission houses, Chinese laundries and grocery stores were prevalent in the area and Chicagoans, welcomed the new arrivals and patronized their businesses. In fact, frequenting the chop suey restaurants became extremely popular and more restaurants continued to open.

As expected, I found Wentworth Avenue to be replete with authentic Chinese restaurants, shops, buildings topped with pagodas, lion statues, mosaics and intriguing architecture. Although it is one of Chicago’s smallest neighborhoods, it was filled with huge sights and sounds!

Because I was obligated to meet my party for a meal later, taking the opportunity to enjoy a fare of dim-sum or noodles wasn’t in the cards for me, however, I stopped in to The Seven Treasures Cantonese Restaurant for a fresh coconut drink. Even though it was cold out, it was refreshing and reminded me of the drinks I once purchased from street vendors in Cambodia!

Before heading back to the metro, I wanted to see two of Chicago’s Chinatown’s important works of art. In Chinatown Square, I examined the two-story shopping center decorated with twelve sculptures of the Chinese zodiac and the mural “Chinese in America” which describes the history of Chinese immigrants in the U.S. and the Chinese cultural beliefs. 100,000 individually cut pieces of hand-painted glass from China were used to create this spectacular mural. Across the road and on my way to the metro station, I encountered the prominent Nine Dragon Wall. Modeled after the wall in Beihai Park in Beijing, it is made up of glazed tile from China and replicates the large dragons and over 500 smaller dragons painted in red, gold and blue signifying the Chinese focus on good fortune. It is only one of three such replicas outside of China.

Chinatown Square
Nine Dragon Wall

Finally, time to head back to my hotel, I reluctantly boarded the train at the Cermak-Chinatown metro station. My time in Chi-Town’s Chinatown, was brief, yet an enlightening and entertaining experience. Much like my experiences in San Francisco many times over the years, I reveled in the art, architecture and cuisine. But as much as I enjoyed Chi-Town’s Chinatown and many others, I still found myself wishing that it could have been the real thing.

One day.

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Chinatown

Chinatown Square

Nine Dragon Wall

  • Address: 158 W. Cermak Road, Chicago, Illinois 60616
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

The Cathedral of the Musical City

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Sometimes I feel like I don’t find churches, they find me!

I wasn’t looking to visit a church while in downtown Austin…I just happened to stumble upon one of the most historic ones in the state.

Built in the late 1800s, St. Mary’s Cathedral began as a small stone church named St. Patrick’s. As the parish continued to grow, the decision was made to build a new church. With both an Irish and German congregation, it was determined that a patron saint that reflected both heritages was needed, and St. Mary was chosen. In 1872, when Austin was made the state capital of Texas, the first cornerstone was laid, and the church completed two years later. St. Mary’s was deemed a cathedral in 1948.

The Gothic exterior seemed out of place amongst Austin’s towering skyscrapers, yet it was mesmerizing with its Gothic revival towers and spires which were added in 1907. Inside the tower, the cathedral’s bell is one of the largest in the state of Texas.

As I entered the cathedral, I was quite surprised to find a stunning interior, highlighted by spindled beams and a barrel-vaulted ceiling. Towering stained glassed windows lined each side of the church and tree-like columns were topped with foliage carved capitals. As I made my way toward the altar, I gazed upward at the bright blue dome painted with stars and flanked by two altars dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and St. Joseph and as I turned to face the rear of the church, I was mesmerized by the spectacular large rose window in the front façade.

In a city of known for its music, St. Mary’s is the site of a Christmas concert that highlights its Irish heritage. Traditional Irish and Scottish music is performed by acclaimed artists and the concert is a sellout each year.

So, when you visit Austin, not only can you experience music throughout the city, you can hear it at St. Mary’s and experience its history and architecture at the same time.

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St. Mary’s Cathedral

  • https://smcaustin.org/
  • Address: 203 E 10th St203 E 10th St, Austin, Texas 78701
  • Hours: daily, 0800-1800. Daily mass schedule, Monday-Friday, 0630, Monday-Saturday, 1205. Weekend masses, Saturday, 1730 and Sunday, 0730 (Latin), 0930 (Live streamed), 1200, 1345 (Spanish, live streamed), 1530 (Latin, live streamed), 1730.
  • Admission: free

BIG Plans in the BIG City

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Everything’s BIGGER in Texas, right?

Years ago, when I lived in Dallas, I always heard people say this, so when I visited Austin for the first time, I expected BIG things there as well.  

Did I find that?

You bet!

Being downtown has its advantages. It’s a BIG city, but everything is close by. Or so I thought!  

My initial plan was to take a walk along the river, enjoy the scenery and city views and then head over to one of Austin’s local attractions. It was a beautiful day and I thought it would be nice to be outdoors and get my daily dose of culture.

After a short time, I happened upon the statue of music legend Stevie Ray Vaughan. It was a normal sized statue, but the bronze effigy, erected in 1994, depicts the Blues guitarist in his customary poncho, straight brimmed hat and western boots, as he appeared to his adoring fans before his death…LARGER than life.

Seeking out more three-dimensional art, my next destination was to be the Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum. Thinking I could continue my trip along the river and be there in a short amount of time, I soon discovered that my short walk was actually a long one. BIG mistake!  Silly me…I had plugged in the driving directions on my phone instead of the walking directions and it was a lot farther than I thought. Too invested to give up at this point, I plodded onward but I was glad I did.

The Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum, exhibits the works of Charles Umlauf and other visual and performing artists displayed in a peaceful setting filled with native Texas plants and trees. The site once contained small ponds which were used by soldiers to practice fly casting during the 1930s and 1940s. Becoming overgrown and neglected during later years, the property was then given to the City of Austin and transformed into a sculpture garden for the dozens of bronze and stone pieces gifted to the city in 1991, by 20th century American sculptor, Charles Umlauf.

As I made my way through the property, I encountered stunning sculptural works of art amid waterfalls, streams, pathways, flowers and natural beauty. With not just one theme on display, I encountered three-dimensional depictions of men, women, children, animals and religious subjects. In addition, there were a few pieces, including the winning project, from the design competition, Design Shine 2020…a BIG deal!

Deciding not to make the long walk back to the city, I called Uber in anticipation of arriving in time to see Austin’s BIGGEST spectacle during the spring and summer months. The nightly emergence of the bats at the Congress Avenue Bridge!  

Never had I heard of the Austin bats! Only when I mentioned to a friend that I was going to be in the Music City did she tell me what an amazing experience it is and that I was going to be there during the prime viewing season.

But first, I wanted a quick look around the downtown area.  

Approaching from Congress Avenue, I admired the grand State Capitol building with its BIG dome, viewable all the way from the Congress Street Bridge.  It was getting late in the day and although I was aware that tours, both guided and self-guided were offered, I didn’t have the time, especially if I was going to see the bats.  Glancing at my watch, I also realized that the last tours departing would be in a few minutes…definitely not enough time to make my way across the lawn and make the necessary arrangements. But as I entered the front gates, I discovered that sticking with the theme of the day…BIG statues…I could make the most of the rest of my afternoon. 

The Texas Confederate Memorial Lawn has some amazing monuments designed and constructed by notable sculptors along its Great Walk and on the grassy lawns to the east and west.  Here, you can find the African American History Memorial (West Lawn), Spanish American War Memorial, (West Lawn), Memorial to Volunteer Firefighters (Great Walk), the Monument to Confederate Soldiers (Great Walk), Memorial to the Texas Rangers (Great Walk), Heroes of the Alamo Monument (Great Walk), Artesian Fountain Exhibit (East Lawn) and the Tejano Monument (East Lawn).  In fact, the collection is so BIG, that even though I glanced at one of the maps, I still missed so many more statues located at the rear of the Capitol building…Ten Commandments, Texas Schoolchildren, Pioneer Woman, Pearl Harbor, Statue of Liberty, World War I, World War II, Korean War Veterans, Vietnam Veterans, Disabled Texas Veterans and Texas Police Officers.  I now definitely have motivation to return!

Texas African American History Memorial
Memorial to Volunteer Firefighters
Monument to Confederate Soldiers
Memorial to the Texas Rangers
Heroes of the Alamo Monument
Artesian Fountain Exhibit
Tejano Monument

Oh well, it was getting late, and I wanted to be sure not to miss the BIG event!

As I headed back down Congress Avenue, I marveled at the architecture as well as the graffiti artwork displayed on many of the buildings and in alleyways. My favorite, however, was the BIG guitar on Congress Avenue, designed by Craig Hein, giving homage to Austin’s musical roots.

Earlier, while walking along the river, I had observed signs for boat companies that offer trips out on the river so that riders get a prime view of the emergence at sunset. Other companies offered kayak trips for similar views but not being sure of my plans at the time, I had not made any reservations. Instead, I took my place along the rail on the pedestrian walkway, along the river on the north bank, with hundreds of other people and waited. To be honest, at that time, I wasn’t quite sure what I was waiting for.

Finally, I heard a gasp and saw my fellow observers pointing. There they were. Hundreds of Brazilian Free-Tailed bats were emerging from the 16-inch-deep crevices between concrete beams of the bridge, their nesting spot during the day, and taking flight in search of their evening meal.

Little did I know, at the time, how lucky I was to see this phenomenon as weather sometimes dictates their appearance with hot or warm, dry weather being the optimum conditions. 100,000 bats live under the bridge, rearing their young and then migrating to Mexico during the winter months.

Although I was able to see the long columns of bats in the darkening sky, it was obvious that there are many other prime viewing locations, in the river and on the opposite bank.

Weary, yet excited, I stumbled back in the direction of my hotel, hoping to find a BIG burrito and a BIG margarita…because you can’t go to Austin and expect anything less!

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Stevie Ray Vaughan Statue

  • Address: Riverside Drive & South First

Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum

  • https://www.umlaufsculpture.org/
  • Address: 605 Azie Morton Road, Austin, Texas 78704
  • Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 1000-1600, Saturday and Sunday, 1100-1600. Closed Monday. Closed Independence Day, Labor Day, Austin City Limits Music Festival, December 24 and 25, December 31 and January 1.
  • Admission: Members, free, Adults, $7.00, Seniors (60+), $5.00, Students, $3.00, Youth, 13-17 years, $1.00, Children under 12, Active Military and Veterans, free.

Austin Bats

Texas State Capitol

  • https://tspb.texas.gov/prop/tc/tc/capitol.html
  • Address:  1100 S Congress Ave, Austin, Texas
  • Hours: Texas Capitol and Extension: Monday-Friday, 0700-2000, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-2000. Easter Sunday, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. Grounds open daily, 0700-2000. Capitol Visitor’s Center, Monday-Friday, 0900-1700, Saturday and Sunday, 1200-1700. Easter Sunday, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. Monday-Friday, guided tours of the Capitol are available on a limited basis between 9:30 a.m. and 4 p.m. with the last tour departing at 3:30 p.m. On Saturday and Sunday, guided tours of the Capitol are available on a limited basis between 1230 and 1600 with the last tour departing at 1530. Self-guided tours of the Capitol and Grounds are allowed daily. Visitors are welcome to pick up free self-guided Capitol and Grounds tour brochures at the Capitol north entry or Capitol Information and Guide Service 1S.2.
  • Admission: Capitol Tours, both guided and self-guided, are free. All tours depart from inside the South Foyer outside the tour guides office in the Capitol, approximately every 30-45 minutes and last for 30 minutes.