I ❤️ Oil

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Olive oil.

Say it, moving your mouth, but not emitting a sound.

It looks like your are saying, “I Love Oil”.

Well, if it is oil, as in olive oil…I do love it!

I will admit, I never knew a lot about what makes one olive oil better than another. Last year, standing in the olive oil section of a grocery store in Athens, I was stumped. I needed some to bring home, but I had no ideas as to which one was better than the next. Finally, a kindly older gentleman took pity on me and helped me pick out a couple of bottles. Situation solved on that trip.

But, yes, I definitely needed an olive oil education!

So, when my friend texted me and asked if I would be interested in joining her on an olive oil tour while we were both in Rome, of course, I said YES!

Heading out into to cold, wet May afternoon, it didn’t quite seem as though we were nearing the Italian summer months. Still, we had a plan and the wet stuff was not going to hamper our good time!

From the Tiburtina station, we caught a train to Fara Sabina where we would meet our tour guide, Johnny Madge, a Brit who has lived in the area since the early 80’s. A former marble sculptor, he has evolved into a world class olive oil judge after buying a farmhouse in the middle of an olive grove and learning everything he could about the small oval fruit.

Johnny, a good natured gentleman, first took us for a coffee (to help perk us up a bit) and then we headed out onto the small, dirt roads of the Italian countryside. Since the skies were growing darker by the minute, we decided to first head to the tree that bears the title of the Oldest Olive Tree in Europe…there are signs along the way to prove it, though the Olive Tree of Vouves in Crete would probably disagree!

This tree sits in the yard of one of the locals…not in an olive grove as you might expect. It was conveyed that owner will sometimes come out and say hello (anticipating a few coins for his trouble), but on this day, I am guessing that the weather kept him inside.

We ventured through his yard, passing his pet peacocks and his prized pizza oven (doesn’t every Italian have one in their yard?) and to through the small stone wall which protects the area around the gigantic tree, which is said to be about 2,000 years old and still productive. This tree’s girth is so large that it takes about five people to hug it and is hollow in the inside. The massive branches are so heavy and tall that the owner has taken some steps to give it some stability.

Continuing on our journey, we stopped at a nearby olive grove and inspected a mere baby…only 500 years old. Also, hollow, it provided for some fun souvenir photos!

Johnny was a wealth of information and continually pulled over to the side of the road to show us different herbs and flowers that are native to the region. It was amazing to realize how much someone can glean from the land…something us city folks don’t often think about!

Because it was a Sunday, we were unable to visit the places where the olives are sorted and made into olive oil, a little disappointing, but expected. As we pulled into the parking lot of one particular place of business, Johnny explained the pruning and picking process to us and how the olives are pressed into olive oil. He further went on to explain how the determination is made as to whether an olive oil is categorized as extra virgin or not…something I never knew!

Driving onward on the winding roads, we looked up on the ridge of the mountainside at the beautiful town of Toffia, with is church standing proudly at the highest point and a grotto devoted to the Blessed Virgin down below in the valley.

Driving to the entrance gate, we were able to snap a few photos as the rain came down upon us.

Next stop was the small town of Farfa. Bordered by olive groves on either side, this picturesque village with unique boutiques, quaint restaurants and pretty houses is also home to one of the most famous abbeys in Europe, belonging to the Benedictine Order. Entering the abbey, I wasn’t aware of its status at the time, but I knew it was something special…unlike anything I had seen anywhere before. The cathedral was divided into three naves and every surface covered in beautiful friezes, with a stunning lunette representing the Virgin and the Child in the middle. Several chapels line the exterior walls and the interior wall of the facade showcases a large canvas of Last Judgment (1571) by Flemish painter Henrik van der Broek.

Such an important, historic place, several kings (including Charlemagne), emperors and Popes (including most recently Pope John Paul II, 19th May 1993) have visited the Abbey throughout the centuries.

Guided tours are offered on in Italian every day except on Mondays and would be a great way to see all parts of the church, including the crypt entrance and the archaeological museum if you have the time as well as the surrounding grounds.

Wandering around the village we stepped into many of the artisan’s shops inspecting their beautifully hand-made wares…of course, Mother’s Day was coming up and some tea towels to wrap around olive oil bottles was a must!

Finally, with the sun getting lower in the afternoon sky, we headed to the town of Montopoli. It was here at a local pizza restaurant, where we finally sat with Johnny to have an olive oil tasting. Explaining to us how to slurp the oil to the back of our throats, it was there that we were looking for a burn, thus giving us the knowledge that it was indeed, extra virgin. Sampling three different olive oils with our delicious meal was the something new to me…I never thought that I could drink olive oil straight, something very good for us Johnny explained and I never realized how differently olive oil could taste.

With full bellies, we packed up our belongings into Johnny’s van and headed back to the Fara Sabina train station for our ride into the still wet Rome but with a greater knowledge of Italy’s olive oil!

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Johnny Madge

Benedictine Abbey of Farfa

  • http://www.abbaziadifarfa.com/
  • Address: Via del Monastero, 1, 02032 Castelnuovo di Farfa RI, Italy
  • Hours: 1000-1900. Guided tours are performed hourly every day except on Monday from 1000 to 1300 and from 1530 to 1830 (Sat. and Sun. 1500-1900 during Summer)
  • Admission: free

Mardi Gras Every Day of the Year!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One of my favorite events in New Orleans is Mardi Gras.

When my husband and I lived there, I counted down the days until Mardi Gras season would arrive and eagerly re-arranged my schedule to attend as many parades as possible.

The beads were such fun to catch, but we always loved finding out the themes of the parades (well-kept secrets in some cases), the identity of the grand marshals of the larger parades and how the floats would be elaborately decorated.

Many years have passed since we lived in New Orleans, and I always missed being there for the festivities. My feeble attempts at parades and celebrations at my children’s pre-schools and elementary schools did nothing to quell my desire to be where the action was.

In a few weeks, I will be back in the Crescent City to introduce Mardi Gras to a couple of my friends, but it wasn’t until a recent visit to New Orleans and Mardi Gras World that cemented those plans.

There are many types of tours offered in the New Orleans…historic tours, ghost tours, swamp tours…but the one offered at Mardi Gras World is for those with the desire to see what goes on behind-the-scenes at the one of the biggest parties in the world. Having heard about this venue, I thought it would be a fun and informative way to entertain myself while my husband was working and hey, they were offering free King Cake!

After giving Mardi Gras World a call, I was collected near my hotel at one of the designated pick-up spots in the French Quarter. The Mardi Gras World shuttle was clean and efficient, delivering us to their studios at their warehouse location along the river. We were greeted with colorful jesters at the entrance…signs of things to come!

Once the entrance fee was paid in the gift shop, we were instructed to wait at the appointed spot for the tour guide to lead the way. So many cool things to buy were taunting my checkbook, but I decided that it would have to wait until after the tour so as not to have to carry it around.

Taking us down a hallway, our guide ushered us into a large room, its walls lined with many papier mache props, some, donning colorful and elaborate Mardi Gras costumes.

A short introductory film briefed us on the history of the Kern family and how their design company, Blaine Kern Studios, came to be in 1947. When the film was complete, we were were offered that piece of King Cake that we were promised…a bit of sustenance for the long and exciting walk around the premises.

As we entered the warehouse, it was truly an overload on the senses! Mardi Gras is truly alive here, 24/7! Here, we learned just how much hard work and planning is involved to create the impressive floats that can be seen in the Mardi Gras parades.

I had always been fascinated with the details presented on the floats, but never given much thought to how they were made. Explaining how artists create the 3-D figures from thick pieces of styrofoam, then cover them with paper mache, we were actually privileged to see some of these artists hard at work doing just that. We also learned of the technological advances made in the design industry. Pixie, a sculpting robot, can develop a sculpture up to sixty feet long and build larger sculptures from smaller manufactures pieces. Floats can also be backed into the room and sculpted, one side at a time.

Technicians controlling Pixie the Robot

One of the most interesting aspects of the tour was the explanations of how pieces can be re-adapted to be used in future parades by simple modifications. Changing a hat and some facial features can create an entirely new character. Every piece created by Blaine Kern Studios is housed here and an amazing sight to see! From the figures of the band KISS, to animals, to historical figures, to major landmarks, to storybook characters…these colorful pieces of artwork fill every nook and cranny…some in various stages of development!

Finally, we were led to a larger part of the warehouse where some of the actual floats are staged. Our guide was extremely knowledgeable about the history of Mardi Gras and its customs and we learned some interesting facts, such as why there are mega floats (filled with up to 200 riders) and why it was decided that tractors would pull the floats. Let’s just say that parade organizers like loopholes in the city’s laws!

We were able to examine many floats at close range examining the papier mache pieces and fiber optic lighting that decorate and illuminate the massive vehicles. Although we were not allowed to board the floats, we did find out something interesting. Having to stay on the vehicles for long periods of time, have you ever wondered what the masked float riders do when they have to go to the bathroom? Yes, the floats are equipped with port-o-johns!

Finally, our guide set us loose and we were able to walk among the thousands of pieces of sculpture and indulge our inner photographer! If you can imagine it, it was probably there, a who’s who of sculptured characters…Buddha, Elvis, Saints’ Quarterback, Drew Brees, Captain Jack Sparrow, Little Red Riding Hood, Santa Claus and so many other amazing pieces! There were even elaborate Mardi Gras costumes to try on!

This New Orleans tour is an experience you will definitely not want to miss, especially if you have not had the opportunity to attend Mardi Gras. The unmasking of the greatest show on earth is truly worth the admission price…even for a former local, like me!

Bring your camera and your appetite!

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Mardi Gras World

  • https://www.mardigrasworld.com/
  • Address: 1380 Port of New Orleans Pl, New Orleans, LA 70130
  • Hours: 0900-1730, daily. First tour begins at 0930 and last tour at 1630, each lasting one hour and beginning every half hour.
  • Admission: Adults, $22.00, Children, $14.00, Seniors, $17.00, Students, $17.00
  • Getting There: By car, $15.00 parking fee. By free shuttle, provided by Mardi Gras World. Give them a call and they will pick you up at designated pick up areas throughout the French Quarter and Downtown areas.

City of the Dead

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Is it strange to love visiting cemeteries?

Not really.

I have been to some of the most famous cemeteries in the world;
Pere Lachaise in France, La Recoleta in Bueno Aires, Monumentale in Milan, just to name a few. The history, architecture and craftsmanship that can be viewed in each of these places is unparalleled.

Having grown up in Louisiana, seeing graves that are raised above the ground is nothing new to me. Because the water table is so high, graves would fill with water and the buoyant casket would seek to float, eventually popping out of the ground. Because of this dilemma, it was decided, hundreds of years ago, that tombs would be built above the ground to house the departed. Some tombs were (and still are) built to accommodate one casket and others, built on a grander scale could accommodate an entire family…some so large that they resemble small homes or chapels. Visitors to the south, however, are intrigued with our burial system and some of the most beautiful and immense tombs can be found in many of the New Orleans cemeteries…a sort of city of the dead.

St. Louis Cemeteries 1 and 2, located near the French Quarter, are both on the National Register of Historic Places and feature the tombs of several historic individuals and families including Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau, Henriette Delille, Foundress of the Sisters of the Holy Family (presently awaiting canonization), Daniel Clark, financial supporter of the American Revolution and Jacques N.B. de Pouilly, architect of the St. Louis Cathedral.

Since I have seen some of the most famous cemeteries in the world, it was a given that I had to visit the most notable one in New Orleans, St. Louis Cemetery #1. Located a short walk from the city’s French Quarter, it was quite easy to locate, however, once I arrived, I was informed that I would be required to join a tour. With over 100,000 visitor’s each year, the cemetery has been subject to extreme vandalism. Hoping to preserve the sanctity of the cemetery, guests are now required to enter the premises with a licensed guide.

Paying my admittance fee, I waited patiently for the tour to start and was soon joined by Australians, Ethiopians and Italians, proving that curiosity about the oldest cemetery (built in 1789) and its inhabitants has a worldwide reach.

Eagerly following our tour guide, Steve, as he wove his way around the monumental tombs, we first learned how economical vaults were built into the cemetery walls. It was quite interesting to see the wall vaults stacked one above the other, with some now only partially visible near the ground, evidence that the below sea level city is sinking. These vaults contain the remains of many family members within the tomb. After the family member passes, the remains go untouched for a year and a day and then are pushed to the rear of the vault, making room for the next unfortunate soul.

In the center of the property. we witnessed white walls and roofs blocking our view of the entire cemetery. Here, the larger crypts also hold many family members within their massive walls.

With the cemetery being one of the oldest in the city, it is a given that many of the graves are in various states of repair…some taken care of by family, some by volunteers, some by process of having purchased Perpetual Care and many long forgotten. Crumbling and overgrown with moss and fern, the former graves’ appearance lends itself to the creepy image that many envision when thinking of old cemeteries and though you would think that many a horror movie would be shot here, filming is not allowed.

We waited patiently for our turn to stand in front of one of the most famous gravesites in St. Louis #1…the location where it is believed that Marie Laveau is entombed…next door to the former mayor, Dutch Morial, the first African American to hold the office. Laveau’s grave is marked with faded Xs, once a common practice in petitioning the deceased soul. It was believed that the Voodoo priestess would grant your wish if you marked the tomb, placed your hand over it, rubbed your foot three times against the bottom, placed some silver coins in the cup. Since this is actually desecration of a gravesite, it is evidently one of the reasons why visitors are only allowed in the cemetery with an escort.

We passed the tomb of Paul Morphy, who passed away in 1884 at the age of 47, and is considered to have been the greatest chess master of his era. Considered a chess prodigy, he was described by Bobby Fischer as “perhaps the most accurate player who ever lived”. His grave is aptly marked with chess pieces.

As we turned to head further into the cemetery, we could all see the tip of what appeared to be a pyramid. In much newer condition that most of the other tombs, we were informed that it belongs to the actor Nicolas Cage. Though he now resides in Las Vegas, the performer once lived in New Orleans, at 1140 Royal Street (believe it or not!) in the LaLaurie Mansion! His pyramid presently stands dignified but empty, awaiting his demise.

How is it that someone like Nicholas Cage gets to be buried in St. Louis #1? Well, if you have $40,000, you can too. The steep price will buy you a plot next to some of New Orleans’ most notorious residents.

Following our guide, we continued on to the towering Italian Mutual Benevolent Society’s marble tomb, which was designed by architect Pietro Gualdi in 1857. Designed in the Baroque style, it includes three elegantly carved marble statues of female figures; one holding a cross crowning the top, one in a niche above the engraving “Italia” and another out of view in a niche on the left representing “Charity”. It contains 24 vaults which were for the temporary use of the society’s members whose bones would remain in the tomb for about a year and then removed and placed in a receptacle in the tomb’s basement. Nearby, are the Portuguese Burial Society and the New Orleans Musicians Tombs which operate on the same premise at the Italian Benevolent Society, giving those of the association a place to be buried.

At the rear of the cemetery, we were directed to the Protestant section, which was assigned to the Christ Church (Episcopal) for the burial of non-Catholics. All that remains of this area, however, is the area between the wall vaults and some brick walls. Between 1822-1838, the burials from the Protestant section, which extended beyond the back wall, were transferred to the Girod Street Cemetery to make way for neighborhood development. What I found interesting, however, was that non-Catholic burials have always been allowed in any part of the cemetery and some Catholics were actually buried in the Protestant section.

Nearby, we found the grave of Étienne de Boré, a local plantation owner and an important person to the sugar cane industry famous for producing the first granulated sugar in Louisiana. Making the sugar cane crop profitable for local farmers, the industry still continues strong today with more than 400,000 acres of land in 22 Louisiana parishes producing approximately 13 million tons yearly and employing about 17,000 employees.

It was quite interesting and yet peaceful to walk among the decrepit graves in the cold, winter morning and I thought it a pity that others’ desecration of the cemetery had made it hard for those of us who might like to take their time wandering among the lesser know grave sites instead of being ushered along by our guide in his attempt to keep the tour at the allotted forty-five minute limit.

The cemetery has been preserved as best as it can be and with the new fees imposed by the Archdiocese, it is the hope that the cemetery will be available for all to enjoy for hundreds of years to come. Security has been added and through the hard work of the caretakers, St. Louis Cemetery #1 will remain open to the public. One caretaker devoted most of his life to the care and preservation of this historic place, Alexander “Buddy” Anspecker. Working in the location for 41 years, he could always be counted on for his dedication and descriptive tours of the historic tombs.

Finally, however, I learned something very interesting…something that brought my adventures full circle.

The day before I had sought out the LaLaurie Mansion on Royal Street. Earlier in the tour, I learned that actor Nicolas Cage had resided in the LaLaurie Mansion. On this day, however, I learned that though it was thought that Madame Marie Delphine LaLaurie had died in France, in a boar-hunting accident, a caretaker of the cemetery, Eugene Backes (many years before “Buddy”), discovered an old cracked, copper plate in Alley 4 of the cemetery. The inscription read, “Madame Lalaurie, née Marie Delphine Maccarthy, décédée à Paris, le 7 Décembre, 1842, à l’âge de 6–.” declaring that perhaps, Madame LaLaurie had returned from France to rest among the distinguished departed residents of St. Louis #1.

Though we were not made privy to the location of this copper plate, it gives rise to the notion that New Orleans’ history is quite complex and interwoven.

The walk to St. Louis Cemetery #1 is a short one and although the price a bit steep for the tours offered, keep in mind that the money is helping to preserve this treasure. Though you would never catch me in a cemetery at night, especially within a city rich in the Voodoo culture and alive with many superstitions, I was pleasantly surprised at the vast array of prominence laid to rest here. Definitely worth the visit in light of its history!

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St. Louis Cemetery #1

  • https://nolacatholiccemeteries.org/our-history
  • Address: 425 Basin St, New Orleans, LA 70112
  • Hours: 0900-1600, Monday through Saturday and 0900-1100, Sunday (last admittance 1 hour before closing)
  • Admission: $20 for guided tour. Tours last approximately 45 minutes.

The Floating Market

Once we indulged our appetites, we got a little bit of sleep. I knew that we wanted to be at the tour desk when it first opened so that we might have a chance to book a tour to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, something neither Nicki nor I had done on our previous trips.
As tired as I was, my internal clock must have coaxed me awake, because at 7:00 am, my eyes opened wide.
I quickly dressed and went downstairs. Since we had not booked twenty four hours in advance, we were unable to book the official Floating Market “Tour”, but we were informed that we could book a private car, longtail boat and tour to the market. Much better!
Quickly we dressed and returned downstairs to meet our driver, whom we had been informed, was to leave by 9:00 am.
Because it was a national holiday, Chulalongkom Day (the king’s birthday), traffic was horrendous. A trip that would have taken one and a half hours, took three and a half.
Finally, we arrived at the floating market and were escorted onto our boat. image
Driving through the canals, we had a taste of local life. Many houses were built on stilts and some were connected by pier walkways. As usual, the friendly locals met our passing with beautiful smiles and enthusiastic waves.
A stop at the Coconut Sugar Farm gave us insight into how…actually, I am not going to make this up. I have no idea what they do here, besides sell souvenirs and give out free samples of a coconut drink.

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On we drove, stopping locals in their boats for various food items, and stopping at market stalls along the way. Nicki and Angie snagged some clothing items and carvings…since I have been craving Thai food, I had more Pad Thai and then, coconut ice cream! It was more delicious than the last time I had it!

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Because we had arrived so late, some stalls were closed and there were not as many boat vendors in the canals. Still, it was an amazing experience!
After leaving the main area of the floating market, we then went for a visit to Wat Prok Charoen buddhist temple and returned to the dock for our drive back to Bangkok.

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