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The Hill Of the Muses

Socrates.

One of the most widely recognized classical Greek philosophers in history, he was also known as the founder of Western philosophy. It was his unique teachings and thoughts, however, that led to his demise. In 399 BC, Socrates went on trial and was found guilty of corruption and impiety. After being imprisoned, he was sentenced to death by poison.

Searching a map of Athens, I noticed on Philapappou Hill (also known as the Hill of the Muses), a landmark noting the location of the Prison of Socrates. Since I had never had the opportunity to walk to the top of this hill to inspect the monument to Philapappou (that I had seen from the nearby Acropolis) I decided that it would be a good destination for that day and being able to search out the location of this historical prison would be a bonus.

Heading up the pedestrian friendly Dionysiou Areopagitou street, I entered the park gates and headed up the marble paved pathways. Welcoming the shady pine-covered trails, I looked for signs leading to my destinations. There were none, however, finding the first item on my list was not all that difficult as it seemed that most other tourists were headed that way.

The Prison of Socrates was nothing more than a cave with iron bars…still, it was interesting to think that Socrates spent his last days here. Or did he?

Though this is a popular spot for tour guides to take tourists and prattle on and on about Socrates last days, it has been brought to light that these openings within the rock are probably no more than the remains of an ancient Mycenaean building. The real location of the philosopher’s prison was probably located near the Ancient Agora, at the foot of the Acropolis. Though no one is sure, it is interesting to visit this location and imagine poor Socrates passing the time behind the iron gates before his demise.

Continuing on, we followed the trail, climbing higher and higher up the steep rocky paths. As we came to a bend in our route, we moved out onto an opening and a rock outcropping. Here, we got our first views of the Acropolis from a different perspective. Having been to the Acropolis on multiple occasions, seen it from below in the Plaka and from afar from my hotel’s rooftop terrace, it was something to see from an adjacent hill. As we stared in wonder, we also noticed the amazing views to be gotten of Mount Lycabettus and the Saronic Gulf and I imagined that it would be an amazing location to take in the sunset.

Climbing higher, we finally reached the pinnacle of our ascent where the Monument to Philapappou, an ancient Greek mausoleum dedicated to Gaius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos (65-116 AD), rests. A prince from the Kingdom of Commagene, Philopappos was highly respected and one of the greatest benefactors of the city.

Upon his death, which caused great grief to not only his family, but also to the citizens of Athens, it was decided that a tomb would be erected on Muses Hill. Built on the same site where 6th century poet and mystical seer, Museaios was entombed, the two story marble structure is an elaborately carved structure on par with the Acropolis…its location showing his great status within the city.

Following the main path, past the Philapappou Monument, we found the Shrine of the Muses, cut into the rock face just below the top of the hill. This shrine was created in honor of the goddesses of creative inspiration. Philapappou Hill is also known as the Hill of the Muses for it being the home of the nine muses of Greek mythology.

Heading down the hill, we finally came to the Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris, a 15th century Byzantine church. By now, everyone should know how much I love churches and of course, I was thrilled to unexpectedly find this charming chapel during the midst of our exploration of Philapappou Hill. Though it offered a peaceful place to rest for a moment, I was frustrated to find the church locked. I was especially disappointed later when I learned that this church is decorated with beautiful frescoes. I also learned that its surname, “Loumbardiaris” (the Bomardier) was earned as it was saved by a miracle in 1658 when the Turkish commander of the Acropolis, Yusuf, was planning to bomb the church from the Propylaea. The following day, as they prepared to attack, a lightening strike hit the gunpowder magazine, causing an explosion which killed Yusuf and his entire family.

Since I was unable to examine the interior of this historical structure, I made myself content to walk around and survey its exterior architectural features. A spectacular find that I will certainly return to see again!

A good part of our morning had been fulfilled with the exploration of Philapappou Hill. There was much more as two nearby hills are connected to this beautiful green space within the city of Athens and we decided to continue our excursion.

What else would we find?

If you are in the area and find yourself with time before or after your visit to the Acropolis, make the short walk to Philapappou Hill and discover the treasures scattered around this beautiful promontory. Have a picnic, enjoy the views and maybe even the sunset!

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Filopappos Hill

Address: Thissio, Athens, 104 38 Athens, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The Prison of Socrates

Address: Filapappou Hill, 43, Rovertou Galli 39, Athens 117 41
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro, Akropoli station

Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris

https://www.facebook.com/agiosdimitriosloumpardiaris/
Address: Filapappou Hill, Athens 117 41, Greece
Hours: 0800-1200, 1700-2000, daily
Admission: free

The Garden of Amalia

Every beautiful day deserves a walk in a beautiful garden.

Blessed with agreeable weather year round, there’s always opportunity to visit many outdoors places in Athens. One such place, is indeed, a beautiful garden.

The Athens National Gardens.

The National Garden was created between 1838 and 1840 by the first queen of Greece, Queen Amalia.

Queen Amalia, wife of king Otto, was rumored to have spent so much time (at least three hours a day) taking care of the garden, that the garden was originally named for her. When you enter the garden from Vasilissis Amalias Avenue, you can see the impressively tall Washingtonia palm trees that the queen planted, one of the highlights of the garden.

After leaving the Temple of Olympian Zeus, I crossed the road and entered the garden from Leof. Vasilissis Olgas Street, walking along the fountains leading up to the impressive structure of the Zappeion.

The Zappeion’s construction was started in 1874 and designed by Danish architect Theophil Hansen. Opened on October 20, 1888, it’s main purpose was to serve as building for the Olympic games, first acting as a venue for the fencing competitions, during the 1896 Summer Olympics. Later, the building was used as the Olympic Village (1906) and then served as the first host for the organizing committee (ATHOC) for the 2004 Olympic Games from 1998 to 1999. It also served as the press center during the 2004 games.

Historically, the building has some significance besides it original purpose. In 1938, the Athens Radio Station, the country’s first national broadcaster, began operating on the premises and later continued to house the National Radio Foundation until the inauguration of the House of Radio in 1970. In 1940, it was converted into a hospital and during the following year, it was commandeered by the German army to become a storehouse and barracks. In 1979, documents were signed at the Zappeion formalizing Greece’s accession to the European Community.

Today the Zappeion is mainly used for official and private meetings and ceremonies as well as art exhibitions and occasional concerts. It is not open for tours.

Just outside the Zappeion, be sure to look for the statue of Evangelos Zappas. Buried underneath this statue is his head. There are approximately 70 other statues and works of art in the gardens immediately surrounding the Zappeion, including statues of Lord Byron and the Zappas cousins, who funded the construction of the building.

After walking around the building and through its own park, I finally entered the Athen’s National Garden, a peaceful oasis within the hustle and bustle of the ancient city.

One of the first things I encountered were the massive palms planted by the Queen Amalia. It was quite thrilling to walk between these imposing trees towering into the impossibly blue sky and think about how long ago they were planted and how they have endured.

Walking along, I encountered vine-covered walkways, which must be astonishing when in bloom and massive eucalyptus trees which provide shade during the intense heat experienced in Athens’s summer. The garden is home to 7,000 trees, 40,000 bushes and other plants which include 519 species and varieties, with 102 of them being Greek. There are Judas trees, oleanders, carob trees and foreign born Australian pines and Chinese trees-of-heaven. You can also find Centenarian Holm oaks, cypress trees and Canary Island date palms as well as plants that were introduced into the garden at its inception.

There are six lakes within the premises, one with a picturesque bridge and hundreds of ducks and fish that reside there. It is evident that these birds and amphibious creatures enjoy a well-provided-for lifestyle at the lake, as there were many small children, bag of bread in hand, eagerly obliging their requests for a hand-out. Children will also enjoy a small zoo-like collection of animals located within the park.

While exploring the gardens near the Vasilissis Sophias Avenue entrance make sure to look for the remains of the Roman floor. Uncovered during nineteenth century excavations at a depth of one meter, the well-preserved floor belonged to a the courtyard of a Roman villa.

Another popular attraction is the sun dial located near the main entrance and the Washingtonia palms. Once the primary method of telling time, visitors to the sight can be seen gazing at the sun dial and then checking their observations against their modern day timepieces for accuracy.

Other attractions within the gardens are a conservatory, where plants are cultivated before being planted in the garden, a children’s library and a small cafe where you can grab a drink or snack and refresh in the green surroundings. The entrance is located on Irodou Attikou Street. There is also a library containing two reading rooms, a fairy tale room, a music room and a film room. The library’s collections boasts 6,000 publications.

A walk in the Athens National Garden is truly a magical experience and one to include while exploring the city. Adjacent to other important attractions, this oasis beckons and protects during the sweltering parts of the day. Exercise here, meet others or just bask in its beauty.

I know…I did.

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Athens National Gardens

https://www.cityofathens.gr/episkeptes/aksiotheata/diadromes-stin-istoria-tis-athinas/o-kipos-tis-athinas
Address: Amalias 1, Αμαλίας 1, Athina 105 57, Greece
Hours: 0600-1930, daily
Admission: free

On Alert At The Arch

Snap.

Bending to the right, I adjusted my camera and focused in on Hadrian’s Arch, trying to get the best shot in the late afternoon sunshine.

Turning my body, I felt a tug on my backpack and turned to find a woman, her hands in my bag.

Confronting her, she backed away, feigning innocence in her native language. Thankfully, she was unable to get my wallet which was deep in the carryall that I don’t normally use when I travel.

Sadly, this is a common theme in Athens. Pickpockets roam the city, looking for marks in crowded areas or at monuments not normally secured by gates and guards.

What was still more shocking was that others were nearby, probably watching her trying to help herself to my hard earned cash and no one said anything.

Since this is the first time I have had an encounter of this kind…ever…especially in this ancient city, I am trying to not let it deter my affection for Athens and the spectacular history it presents.

Pickpockets aside, the Arch of Hadrian is an astonishing triumphal arch located near Syntagma square and between the rock of the Acropolis and the Temple of Zeus and should not be overlooked on any trip to Athens.

The monument was started in 131 BC to celebrate the arrival of the Roman Emperor Hadrian and to express gratitude for his contributions to the city. Though it is not known who built the arch, its location was chosen to mark the line between the ancient part of the Athens and Hadrian’s new city.

Built of marble from Mount Pentelikon, the arch, originally acting as one of the seven gates serving as a defense, reaches a height of almost sixty feet and is forty-one feet wide by almost eight feet deep. The lower area is an arched gate through which pedestrians could pass and there are two inscriptions carved into the structure. The first reads, “This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus” and the second on the opposite side, declares, “This is the city of Hadrian and not of Theseus”, informing of the two districts designated by Hadrian.

An important landmark in Athens, take a short walk from the central square and check it out while enroute to the other attractions in the area…the Temple of Zeus, the National Gardens and the Panathenaic Stadium.

Imagine what it was like to walk beneath this magical arch when it served as a tribute to Hadrian, a supporter of Greek culture and who did all that he could to raise Athens to a special place in the Roman Empire.

Just keep your eyes open!

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Hadrian’s Arch

Address: Leoforos Vasilisis Amalias, Athina 105 57, Greece
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

The Temple That Almost Wasn’t

So many ruins…so little time.

Having an interest in both history and architecture, Athens always gives me a thrill with so much to see and do in both departments. With only a short time in the city each time I visit, however, I have to accept that I may only get to squeeze in one or two sites during my outings.

Usually, after arriving, I jump into the shower, grab some caffeine and hit the streets, but sadly, after a long and demanding flight, this girl had to catch some shut eye. My grand plan to grab a tour to Cape Sounion and the Temple of Poseidon would have to wait. Leaving later than I usually do from my hotel, time made the decision of where I would head…the Temple of Olympian Zeus, which was a short walk away.

Having been here before, I knew what to expect, but this time, I knew a bit more about the temple.

The first thing I know is that it is amazing that there are even ruins to still visit. Not in the way you might think, however.

The construction of this temple was begun in the 6th century by Pisistratus, the son of Hippocrates, also known as the Tyrant of Athens, who desired to pay tribute to the Olympian Zeus (originating from his position as head of the Olympian gods). Due to a lack of funding and the disestablishment of his son in 510 BC, construction ceased. Other attempts were made to finish the temple, by the Macedonians and Anthiochus, however, there was no completion until the Emperor Hadrian made the effort seven hundred years later.

When the building of the temple had finally concluded, it was renowned as the largest temple in Greece; there were 104 Corinthian columns and a giant gold and ivory statue of Zeus, erected by Hadrian, with a similar one of himself next to it. Today, all that remains of the entire structure are sixteen columns. Though no one knows exactly why the temple was destroyed, there is speculation of its extirpation by an earthquake and pillaging from a barbarian invasion in the third century AD . Materials from temple were then carted off to be used in various building projects throughout the city.

Today, you can still see the remaining columns standing on its original site in Athens with one lying on the ground where it fell during a storm in 1852. Two other columns can be seen in the Temple of Jupiter in Rome on Capitoline Hill, where they were brought by the Roman General Sulla.

Although you must retain a short distance from the temple, you are close enough to discover its column’s massive girth and imagine what it must have been like during its glory. You can almost imagine the colossal statues of Zeus and Hadrian holding court in the center of the temple.

Though the site is not extensive, take some time to enjoy the ruins and make sure not to miss the archaeological site on the edge of the property, highlighting some ancient structures uncovered there. Not one of the sites that most people aspire to visit, you can often find it uncrowded and enjoyable and you are able to obtain nice photos, especially in the afternoon when the sun hits the columns, almost making them glow against the perpetually cerulean sky. You can also combine your visit with a quick stop to Hadrian’s Arch located just outside the gates of the temple.

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Temple of Zeus

Address: Temple of Olympian Zeus (Archaeological Area), Vasilissis Olgas & Vasilissis Amalias Avenue , 10557 Athens (Greece)
Hours: Winter, 0830-1500, Summer, 0800-1930, daily. January 6, 0730-1930, October 28, 0730-1930. Closed March 25.
Admission: General Entrance, €2.00. Combined ticket, includes Archaeological areas of Athens (Acropolis, Acropolis Museum, Ancient Agora, Theater of Dionysus, Kerameikos, Temple of Olympian Zeus and Roman Agora, €12.00, reduced, €6.00. Free entrance to Children under the age of 18 (with ID), Students of Greek of Universities (with ID), those serving armed forces (with ID).
Getting There: By Bus, 057, 103, 108, 111, 155, 200, 208, 209, 227, 237, 856, A3, A4, B3, B4. Tram, 4. By Foot, Follow Vasilissis Amalias Avenue from Syntagma Square for about 500 meters, where you will come to the Temple of Olympian Zeus on your left.

For Athen’s Athletes…

It’s time for your morning jog…imagine running on a track rich in history. A place where ancient athletes once competed…

In Athens, you can!

Most visitors to Athens, make sure to see the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora and the Forum, but many don’t realize that the Panathenaic stadium is actually one of the most significant monuments in Athens and in all of Greece.

Located in the central Athens district of Pangrati, it is here that the Olympic flame sets up its journey to the cities of the Olympic games and is one of my favorite places to visit!

In 330 BC, a simple racecourse was built on the site and became the location of the Great Panathenaea, the religious and athletic festival celebrated every four years to honor the goddess Athena. With no formal seating, spectators sat on the inclines of the adjacent ravine to view the festivities.

In 144 AD, the stadium was rebuilt by Athenian Roman senator, Herodes Atticus, also responsible for many other structures throughout the country. Constructed entirely out of marble, it was a place for the masses with 50,000 seats. By the fourth century, however, the stadium was abandoned when Hellenistic festivals and bloody spectacles were banned by Roman Emperor Theodosius I and the structure fell into ruin.

After archaeological excavations uncovered the stadium in 1869, it was readied, once again, for use. By 1870, interest was shown in a revival of the original Olympic Games and thus the Zappas Olympics was held at the stadium that year and again in 1875. Refurbishment, approximately 20 years later, prepared the stadium for the opening and closing ceremonies and as a venue for four sports for the first modern Olympics in 1896.

During the 20th century, the stadium was once again used as an Olympic venue when Athens hosted the 28th Summer Olympic Games in 2004. With the motto, “Welcome Home”, this Olympics marked the return of the games to the city where they began. More importantly, a new medal design was introduced replacing one used since 1928. Guiseppe Cassioli, had designed a medal with a colossal mistake…a design depicting the Roman Colosseum rather than a Greek venue. The new design, rightfully, featured the Panathenaic Stadium.

Today, you can visit the stadium, take a seat on the smooth marble seats in the stands or run the well-maintained track. Not only it is great exercise to take a jog, but make sure to make the steep climb to the top of the stadium for an excellent view of the overall complex and the surrounding areas.

Two interesting Greek statues grace the far part of the track…your audio guide, included in your admission, will tell you about them…but be sure to take a close look.

Also, be certain not to miss the permanent exhibition located at the far left side of the stadium, through the vaulted passage, which contains original Olympic Games posters and torches from 1896 until today. Each torch is so unique to the host country, it is quite interesting to see them up close.

Lastly, when departing the exhibition and returning to the stadium’s interior, walk slowly through the vaulted passage…think back to the athletes as they breathed deeply, readied their minds and made they way toward their dream.

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Panathenaic Stadium

http://www.panathenaicstadium.gr/Contact/tabid/93/language/en-US/Default.aspx
Address: Vasileos Konstantinou Anevue (opposite the statue of Myron Discobolus) Athens 116 35
Hours: March-October, 0800-1900, November-February, 0800-1700
Admission: Adults, 5.00€, Children under 6, free, Students and over 65 years, 2.50€, persons with disabilities and those accompanying them, free. Audio guide included.

The Amazing Acropolis

High above Athens, the Acropolis keeps watch over the city.

The flat topped, steep and rocky hill is the home to the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, the Propylaia and the temple of Athena Nike. The Acropolis’ monuments have survived for almost twenty-five centuries through wars, explosions, bombardments, fires, earthquakes, sackings, interventions and altercations and still they stand after the multitude of changes that Greece has seen over time. The heart of the city, it still represents what it originally stood for, Democracy, Philosophy, Freedom of Expression and Speech and a place where people from all continents converge.

Having visited the Acropolis on many occasions, my original intent was to visit the Acropolis museum. After finding that photography is not allowed within the building, I decided to head to the Acropolis first, saving the museum for later when I would need a place to cool off from the heat of the day.

The line for entry was quite long, encompassing tourists from many countries, however the major shock was the difference in price from my last visit. Two years ago, the admission price was only 12€…today, the entry fee has jumped to 20€. Additionally, the price from two years ago, included all of the ancient sites, Dionussus Theater and the Southern slope, Temple of Zeus, Agora and Agora Museum, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos and Roman Agora and was valid for four days. Today, you must purchase a Multi-site ticket which covers the above attractions and costs 30€.

Making my way thru the gates, I headed up the winding path among the ruins that line the pathway, with a stop to rest and admire the theater of Herod Atticus, built by the Romans in 161 AD. The theater is still used today for classical concerts, ballet and performances of high cultural value. Further on is the Theater of Dionysious, the first stone theater and home to Sophocles, Aeschylus, Euripides and Aristophanes. Rebuilt around 342 BC it was then enlarged by the Romans for gladiator flights.

After the remaining climb, I found myself at the entrance, the Propylaea, dating back to 432 BC. A magnificent first view of your destination, it is also the point where the most excited tourists, stop to take group pictures and selfies. Navigating your way around these individuals proves to be challenging, especially on the smooth marble steps.

On your left is the Pinacotheca and a Hellenistic pedestal and on the right, the tiny temple to Nike Athena. The temple commemorates the Athenians victory over the Persians and sits on a platform overlooking the islands of the Saronic Gulf.

Walking out onto the plateau, that is the Acropolis, your first views are of the Parthenon on your right and the Erecthion on your left. The buildings of the Acropolis were built by Pericles in the fifth century BC and were considered the most sacred buildings and the safest part of the city. As little as 150 years ago, there were still dwellings on the Acropolis.

The Erecthion, my favorite part of the Acropolis, contains the porch of the maidens or Caryatids. These statues are copies as four of the original statues reside in the Acropolis museum and the fifth, in the British museum. The building sits on the most sacred site of the Acropolis where Poseidon and Athena had their contest over who would be the Patron of the city. Athena, declared the victor, had the great city named for her. The building itself is the real religious temple of the Acropolis, sitting on what was the northeast corner of what was the original temple. This temple was burned and destroyed by the Persians in 480 BC.

Take the time to walk around the Erecthion and inspect all side of this structure before continuing to the Parthenon. You can get some really nice photos when the sun is behind the building in the afternoon.

The Parthenon, still being taken apart and being put together from the wear and tear of centuries of exposure to the elements is encased in scaffolding, taking away from the full beauty of the building. Restoration has been going on for the past thirty years and will probably continue onward for an equal amount of time. That being said, impressive in scale and that which we associate the Acropolis with, it is an architectural marvel. Designed by Kallikrates and Iktinos as a tribute to the past and the achievements of the Ancient Athenians it was also erected to house a giant statue of Athena. It was also not a temple or place or worship as most people assume and used as a treasury to store the tribute paid by the other Greek city-states and a storage facility for Turkish gunpowder.

After making your way around the Parthenon, move over to the northeast corner of the Acropolis to where the mighty Greek flag flies high. Standing in this location you can see many landmarks including Mount Lycabettos, the National Gardens, the Plaka, Hadrian’s Arch, the Temple of Zeus and the Olympic stadium. On a clear day, you can also see the port of Pireaus and some of the islands beyond.

After making your way back to the Propylaea, consider an exit to the right to visit the rock of Areopagos. The location where St. Paul spoke to the people of Athens in AD 51, there is a tablet embedded in the stone that contains his words. Despite a very slippery climb, it offers a superb view of the Agora, the Plaka, Monastiraki, Omonia and much of Athens as well as a great place to watch the sunset. Continue onward down the hill toward the Agora and other parts of this fabulous, historic city.

Because I have visited the rock of Areopagos on a few other occasions, I decided to make my way back the way I had come and toward the Acropolis museum, my original destination. Passing the many artists that line Dioysiou Aeropagitou street, one caught my eye. Purchasing two paintings, it suddenly dawned on me that I would have to carry my prizes with me for the rest of the night. So…the museum or my hotel?

Big decision…the Acropolis museum would have to wait until another day…again.

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Acropolis

http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/gh351.jsp?obj_id=2384
Hours: 0800-2000, closed for some holidays
Admission: 20€
Getting There: Metro, Acropolis, then walk via Dionysiou Areopagitou Street. Metro, Monastiraki, then walk through the archaeological site of Ancient Agora, or Plaka district.

Kerameikos Cemetery

Having visited Athens on many occasions, I have seen the Acropolis, more than once, as well as many of the archaeological sites throughout the city. After a bit of research, I discovered one archaeological site that I had not explored on my other sojourns…Kerameikos, the thirty centuries old cemetery located on the northwest fringe of the city.

Hurrying through my impromptu church tour, I wanted to enter the cemetery before it’s early closing at 3:00 pm due to the Holy Week schedule. Having read many good things about the cemetery, I was determined to arrive with enough time to visit both the grounds and the museum.

Easy to reach, by walking the length of Ermou Street or via the metro (Keramiekos station, line 3), Kerameikos is just past the Monistiraki Flea Market and the Ancient Agora. Near the end of Ermou, there is signage pointing you in the correct direction and you can actually gaze upon the ruins below though the gates while walking to the entrance.

After paying my entrance fee of 2 euro, I made my way to the neo-classical styled museum. Informed by the ladies in the ticket office that the museum would take about 40 minutes, I started first by inspecting the statuary located outside under the portico, then finally moving in to the interior. Here, there is a vast display of burial-related artifacts, including marble sculptures, funerary urns, pottery, jewelry and toys. Most notable is the stunning bull, in the interior courtyard, from the tomb of Dionysios of Kollytos. A large number of original burial monument sculptures and grave markers are displayed at the museum in the outer courtyard, with plaster replicas replacing in them in their original sites.

The immense number of grave markers, located just outside of the museum are small and plain and not quite what one would expect in a graveyard, resembling more of an ancient road marker or small sign post. These stark gravestones resulted from a a decree in 317 BC that prohibited more elaborate monuments, such as those with statues, that were in vogue at the time. After passing the grave markers while exiting the museum, I moved out to the paths that clearly define and move you throughout the site.

The ancient district of Kerameikos was located within the city walls of Athens with many ceramic workshops in the area. The outside part of Kerameikos served as the burial grounds. Located within Kerameikos was the Sacred Gate, and the start of the Sacred Way, or Iera Odos, which connected Athens with Eleusus and used by the many pilgrims traveling between the two cities during the procession of Panathenia. The Dipylon Gate, the main entrance to the city, was the spot where Pericles gave his most notable speech honoring those who died in the first year of the Peloponesian war. State graves were built on either side of the Dipylon Gate, for Athens notable warriors and statesmen, including Pericles and Cleisthenes. The Dipylon Gate was also the starting point of the ancient Dromos (Road) leading to the Platonic Academy.

The Pompeion, the preparation site for the Panathenaic procession in honor of Athena, was located between the Sacred Gate and the Dipylon Gate. The original building was destroyed in 88 BC during the conquest and plundering of Athens and the Building of the Warehouses replaced it in the 2nd Century AD. The Eridanos river which once passed through the Sacred Gate still flows beneath the site, having been covered over since the Roman period.

On the Street of Tombs, replicas of gravestones of some of the most prominent citizens of Athens, can be seen here. These graves were part of the public graveyard and these notable citizens were buried here at the public expense. The original gravestones are now housed in the National Museum.

Modern replicas of the burial monuments for Hegeso, daughter of Proxenios, and for Koroibos

Often overlooked by visitors, Kerameikos is one of the most significant historical monuments in Athens. Comprising much historical value, it assists visitors in understanding the ancient Athenian way of life and therefore is a “must-see”. The church of Agia Triada serves as a beautiful background to the cemetery and outstanding views of many other Athens sites can be seen from Kerameikos, such as the Acropolis and Lycabettus Hill. The area has been planted with Mediterranean vegetation and is large and open. Not crowded and easy to navigate, the cemetery is a wonderful way to spend part of a day in Athens!

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Kerameikos Cemetery

Hours: April 1 to October 31, 08:00-19:30 daily, Monday 11:00-19:30, November 1 to March 31, 08:00-15:00 daily
Admission: 2€ regular admission, 1€ reduced
148, Ermou Street, Athens
http://www.athensinfoguide.com/open.htm (link to Athens Info Guide which contains information for Athens Museums and Archaeological sites)

A Worshipful Walkabout

A few weeks ago, I was in the Dominican Republic on Easter Sunday, soaking up the sunshine on Bavaro Beach. Little did I realize that a little more than a month later, I would get to celebrate Easter again.

While checking the Acropolis museum website last week, I noticed a banner across the website opening page, Holy Week 2016 Opening Hours at the Acropolis Museum. “Oh, they must have not updated their web page this month”, I thought to myself.

Well, you are never too old to learn something new. The Greek Orthodox Church celebrates Easter later than the Catholic church. The Greek Orthodox Church uses the Julian calendar when calculating the date of Pascha (Easter), while the rest of Christianity uses the Gregorian calendar. There is a thirteen day difference between the two calendars with the Julian calendar being thirteen days behind the Gregorian. Additionally, the Orthodox Church maintains that Pascha must take place after the Jewish Passover in order to maintain the Biblical sequence of Christ’s Passion. Occasionally, the two do celebrate it on the same date (last time, 2011), however the dates of Easter for the Orthodox Church can be anywhere from one to five weeks later.

So, Easter was going to be celebrated on Sunday and all museums, archaeological sites and many shops would be closing early on Saturday? There goes my nap. Being that we would not be arriving until mid-morning, I realized that if I wanted to visit any museums or do any shopping, I would have to take a shower and hit the streets right away.

Having made the decision to visit Agia Dynamis, I decided to map out other churches in the area since it was a Holy Weekend. Visits to these would be accomplished on my way to and from the Kerameikos Ancient Cemetery. Some of my favorite things to see in other countries is their churches…what not a better weekend to see some of Athen’s finest, than on Easter weekend?

Agia Dynamis (Holy Power), a tiny church on the corner of Mitropoleos Street and Pentellis Street, is squeezed between two of the supporting pillars of the Ministry of Education and Religion building. The ministry has been party built around the church as it cannot be demolished due to its prominent history. During the Greek revolution this was the location, that the Greek ammunition master, Mastropavlis, made bullets for the Turkish and for Greek freedom fighters that were smuggled out during the night in garbage bags.

The church is very small and not very embellished. There were many Athenians visiting the church while I was on the premises, lighting candles and offering up prayers.

Walking up Mitropoleos Street, in the Platia Mitropoleos, I next arrived at the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and the adjacent and diminutive Agios Eleftherios church, also known as Mikri Mitropoli (little metropolitan church) or Panagia Georgoepikoos (meaning “All-saint Mary who answers quickly to prayers”).

The Agios Eleftherios church is a Byzantine-era construction from the 13th century ordered to be built by the bishop of Athens. With the expulsion of King Otho, in 1862, it received its current name, meaning “Freedom”.

The outside is constructed of marble with much artistic detail. It is extremely small inside, but beautiful in its simplistic character.

After my visit was complete, I moved onward to the Agios Eleftherios’ illustrious neighbor, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens, popularly known as the “Metropolis”.

Towering over the “little metropolitan church” and the square, the domed basilica has presided in its current location since 1842 when construction began on Christmas Day. Marble from 72 demolished churches was used to build the Cathedral’s colossal walls. After its completion 20 years later, the Cathedral was dedicated by the King and Queen to the Annunciation of the Mother of God. The cathedral, a major city landmark, is the site of official ceremonies and important wedding and funerals.

When entering the church, note the ancient marble, above the entrance, depicting a woman said to be Eileithyia, the goddess of childbirth. During the passage from mythology to Christianity, many temples were transformed into churches and leads one to believe that this particular church was probably built on the ruins of an ancient Greek temple dedicated to Eileithyia.

The interior is very ornate with rich color, distinctive iconography and a beautiful domed ceiling. The Cathedral houses the tombs of two saints, Saint Philothei and Patriarch Gregory V, both killed by the Ottoman Turks during the Ottoman period. The interior was roped off and the sanctuary could only be viewed from afar.

After exiting the Cathedral, I took a a moment to wander through the square taking note of the two statues which reside here; Saint Constantine XI the Ethnomartyr, the last Byzantine Emperor and Archbishop Damaskinos, the Archbishop of Athens during World War II, who was also Regent for King George II and Prime Minister of Greece in 1946.

Walking through the Plaka, I resumed my church tour arriving in Monastiraki Square. The square is named for the Church of Pantanassa (or Ekklisia Kimisi Theotokou Mitropoleos) which is also located here. This small church presides over the square and the crowds of tourists that congregate here for shopping, dining, sightseeing and utilization of the metro at the Monastiraki station.

This church was known as the Great Monastery as it was located on the site of a monastery that stood here many years ago. Later, it became monastiraki (little monastery) which eventually denominated the entire area. Deciding to forgo the interior of this small shrine, I admired it from outside and continued on my way.

My next destination was the Kerameikos Cemetery, Museum and Archaeological Site located near the end of Ermou Street. The cemetery, one of the lesser known archaeological sites in the city, is most certainly worth a visit while in the area.

After my visit to Kerameikos Cemetery, I headed back through Monastiraki Square and walked along the Ancient Agora admiring Hadrian’s Library and the Tower of the Winds.

My final destination was the Church of the Holy Trinity or Sotira Lykodimou, one of the largest medieval buildings in Athens. The Byzantine church was built a little before 1083 within the city’s defensive walls. In 1847, the Russian government purchased the property and Tsar Alexander II undertook the huge renovation of the building in 1850, when the impressive bell tower and side tribunes were added. Now commonly known as the Russian Church it is the parish church of the Russian Orthodox community in Athens.

Stepping into the church, the eye is drawn upward to the impressively festooned dome and the exquisite tall Russian iconostasis, which warranted further inspection, however, before I could take additional pictures, I was instructed that none were allowed.

A quick walk around the exterior and I finally decided that my church tour was complete and it was finally time for my nap.

Within the ancient winding city of Athens, there are many more churches that are worthy of inspection. Dating back to the 5th century and boasting impressive architecture, most are well-preserved and decorated with icons and rare-frescoes. While strolling around the city, everyone should take time to visit these historical houses of worship.

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Agia Dynamis

Corner of Mitropoleos and Pentelis Streets
Take metro to Syntagma square, cross the square to the start of Mitropoleos Street and walk west. The church will be on your left.Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and Agios Eleftherios Church
Metropolitan Square, Athens 105 56
Take metro to Syntagma square, cross the square to the start of Mitropoleos Street and walk west. The square and churches will be on your left.

Church of Pantanassa

Monastiraki Square, 10555 Athens
By Metro: 1 (Green Line), 3 (Blue Line), Station “Monastiraki”
By Bus: 025, 026, 027, 035, 200, 227, 500
By Foot: From Syntagma Square, follow Ermou Street all the way down until you meet up with Monastiraki Square

Church of the Holy Trinity

Corner of Filellinon Street and Souri
Take metro to Syntagma square. Head south on Amalias, take a right on Souri.

Tom’s Place

When going to a city that I have visited many times before, sometimes it seems as though I have seen it all. Absolutely aware that I have not, it just sometimes feels that way when looking for new things to do and seemingly finding the same things suggested over and over.

In order to plan my layovers, I always do a Google search for things to do in a city, however, usually all of the common touristic things pop up that I have already experienced. Recently, I have been employing the search for offbeat things to do. Sometimes you find some really cool stuff (check out my post on the the Purgatory Museum in Rome, “Bones and Burns”!).

Last week, while investigating activities in Athens, Greece, I decided to look for any unique sights that I had not explored previously. With my offbeat search, I came across “Tom’s Place” on the Athens Info Guide website.

The home of Tom McGrath on 23 Iperidou Street, collapsed in the earthquake of 1999. Tom, described as a free spirit, was purported to still live on the property in a run-down room at the rear of the plot amidst a collection of strange objects displayed among the rubble…a vintage motorbike displayed near a car dubbed the Taliban Taxi…a pair of feet sticking out of a plywood coffin…a stuffed elephant peeping from a rubbish bin…a collection of offbeat signs and graffiti.

Marking my Google Maps on my Iphone, I decided that I would try to find this strange residence since my plans were to be in the area.

Setting out, I completed my errands and a few other bits of sightseeing. As I meandered through the Monistiraki Flea Market, near the Old Agora, I checked my map and adjusted my route to take me in the direction of Iperidou Street. As I was nearing the destination, I started looking out for the strange artistic assemblage, but what I stumbled upon was not what I was expecting. There on the street corner, was a plywood barricade with crumbling bricks peeking out behind the tops and a dilapidated doorway amidst a decaying facade. The walls were painted a bright blue and contained a mass of political messages. At first, I was not sure that this was the right place…until I stepped around the corner and discovered, Tom’s Donation Box!

This was absolutely the right place, but how disappointing to not be able to see Tom’s odd collection, I thought, as I looked for an unlocked door or window to peek through.

As I looked across the street, I noticed a sign hanging on a door…Tom’s Corner Plaka. Hmmm. Could Tom be living there? As I lifted my camera up to take a picture of the sign, the door opened and man stepped outside and began to lock the door behind him.

It had to be Tom!

As he walked across the street, I hesitated for a split second before calling out (and thinking that I must be insane) to him. “Are you Tom?”. He seemed to freeze for a second, even as he walked, not knowing whether or not to answer. Then, as if his curiosity got the best of him, he said, “Yes, I am Tom”. He began to walk toward me.

Introducing myself to him, I explained that I had come to see his collection of oddities that I had read about and was disappointed to see that his home was boarded up. He then said to me, “You must have been reading Lonely Planet. Very inaccurate it is.”

Explaining that I had read about him on the internet, but not sure where, I had thought his home would be interesting to see. Tom explained that he had been required to board up his residence as it was deemed an eyesore, but now lived across the street. We then began a conversation that went on to last about 30 minutes and covered many topics from the Presidential Race in the United States (he thinks Trump is interesting), to where he grew up (Belfast, Ireland) and on to Pan American Airways (he used to drive their crew bus).

Realizing that he had been leaving when I interrupted him, I tried many times to end the conversation, not wanting to keep him…but he kept on talking! Quite the character, he was extremely entertaining and funny and I found myself enjoying my time there on the curb of Iperidou Street.

Finally, I insisted that I not keep him from his errands and I bade him a farewell. After finding out that I was a flight attendant, he inquired as to the frequency of my visits to Athens and demanded that I come and visit him again the next time I was in town…I also had to agree to bring friends! We finally shook hands and went on our way!

Leaving Tom’s Place, I was happy that I had stumbled across the suggestion in the Off the Beaten Path section of the Athen’s Info Guide. Feeling happy that I had succeeded in my task and accomplished way more than marking off something from my sightseeing list…I had made a new friend! Traveling is not only about seeing and experiencing things, but about meeting unique and interesting people along the way. That, my friends, is worth way more than the admission price to the Acropolis!

Check out more pictures of Tom’s Place on Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Tom’s Place

Read about it on Athen’s Info Guide: http://www.athensinfoguide.com/otbp.htm
How to get there: Take metro to Syntagma stop. Walk across Sytagma Square to the start of Mitropoleos Street heading west, then take a left on to Voulis. Take a right on Iperidou. Tom’s place is on the corner of Iperidou and Sotiros.