St. Paul’s Outside the Walls

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

St. Peters
St. John the Lateran
St. Mary Major
St. Paul’s Outside the Walls

Of the four major basilicas in Rome, I had been to three.  It was time to venture a little out of the city center in search of the latter.

Strangely, I had never heard of St. Paul’s Outside the Walls.  While reading a thread about the bus system in Rome, I came across the name from someone seeking travel instructions.  This basilica, while occupying land in Italian territory, is not within the territory of the Vatican City State as are the other three.  Located outside the Aurelian walls of Rome, hence its name, the Holy See fully owns the Basilica, however, Italy is legally obligated to recognize the Vatican’s full ownership.

imageGetting to St. Paul’s is not extremely difficult.  Discovering that the basilica is adjacent to a metro stop of the same name, I decided that taking the metro would be the easiest way to travel.  Arriving at the station of Basilica San Paolo, the dome of the basilica was easily spotted.  Following a group of nuns past the clock tower ensured I was on the right path!

Arriving at the entrance on the west side of the basilica, I was shocked to see something I would only expect at St. Peter’s…a long line waiting to go through security.  The line was not very organized and much too wide.  People were busy talking and not moving forward, while others were walking up the sides of the line and moving ahead.  After a twenty minute wait, I finally made my way up and past security.

There are many things that set this basilica apart from the others.  When entering the structure, the lovely columns that line the front of building enclose a remarkable courtyard.  Until you reach the center, you don’t quite see the beauty of the basilica’s gold front facade with the detailed mosaics that catch the sunlight.  In the courtyard stands an imposing statue of the apostle Paul amidst an impeccably maintained garden .

Interesting to note is that this courtyard and facade as well as many things within the church were all added in the nineteenth century.  Of all the churches in Rome, this particular one had preserved it primitive character for 1,435 years until it was destroyed by fire in 1823.  Eager to see the basilica rebuilt, the world contributed to its restoration;  the Viceroy of Egypt sent pillars of alabaster and the Emperor of Russia, malachite and lapis lazuli for the tabernacle.  The Italian government ensured that work on the principle facade, looking toward the Tiber, was completed and declared the church a national monument.

imageWalking up to the basilica, a central bronze door, with inlaid silver, is the focal point.  It was created in 1930 by Antonio Maraini, after the original, a gift from Pope Gregory VII in 1070, was damaged by the fire.  (The original, can be seen, restored, on the inside of the basilica).  The reliefs on the door present scenes from the lives of Saints Peter and Paul.  More importantly, this door is flanked on the right by one of the four Holy Doors in Rome, as declared by the Vatican.  The Holy Door is only opened during Jubilee years by the Pope (once every twenty-five years).

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When entering the church, you are overcome by the vastness of the space only broken by the four rows of twenty granite columns that separate the central nave from its aisles.  The original columns of the church before the fire had been taken from ancient Roman temples and were unable to be salvaged.

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Paintings of the pope above the columns

Most interesting are the circular paintings of the popes that line the space, something not seen in the other basilicas.  Most of these paintings were damaged by the fire and restored, but some of the inscriptions have been eternally lost.  The pictures begin with St. Peter to the present pope, Francis. Very few spaces remain and legend has it that when these spaces are filled, a major event will occur.

Walking farther into the basilica, you will find a recessed area with circular stairways leading down on either side.  Here you will find the surviving links of the chain, on a silk background, that according to tradition, held St. Paul while he was a prisoner in Rome between 61 and 63 AD.  These chains are illuminated and displayed in a case near his tomb which is located under the altar.

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The chains of St. Paul
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Paschal Candle

Near the front of the altar area, take note of the carved Pachal candle which stands more than 16 feet high and was made in the 12th century by Nichola dell’Angelo and Pietro Vassalletto.

At the rear of the church are the chapels, the Blessed Sacrament Chapel, the Chapel of Saint Benedict, the Chapel of St. Laurence and the Chapel of St. Stephen.  Above the Tabernacle in the Blessed Sacrament Chapel hangs a magnificent crucifix sculpted by Pierre Cavallini.  This is the crucifix of which Christ turned his head toward St. Bridget of Sweden and gave her the “15 Prayers of St. Bridget”.

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St. of St. Stephen
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Blessed Sacrament Chapel
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Chapel of St. Benedict

While in the apse, take a look upward at the only remaining part of the medieval basilica, the 13th century mosaic, created by Venetian artists.  This breathtaking mosaic, ordered by Pope Honorius III,  depicts Christ on a throne flanked by the Apostles Peter, Paul, Andrew and Luke.

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Apse Mosaic

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At the end of the right transept is the entrance to the cloisters and the Chapel of Relics.  An entrance fee is required to enter, but worth every penny to see the cloisters with their graceful, twisted mosaics-filled columns that line the arcades.  These cloisters, built between 1208 and 1235 by the Vassalletti family, were untouched by the fire of 1823 and have often been described as the most beautiful in Rome.  The walls of the walks are lined with ancient sculpture and epigraphy recovered in excavations, mostly during the rebuilding of the church.  In the center of the cloisters is a rose garden.  This area was relatively empty during my visit, allowing me to enjoy the peace and solitude which should accompany an area of that nature.  The Chapel of the Relics is worth only a quick visit now that the Chains of St. Paul are displayed within the church.

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Chapel of Relics

After exiting the church, a visit to the well-outfitted gift shop offers not only rosaries and other religious objects, but bottles of wine made by the Benedictine monks (not sold on Sundays or religious holidays).  You can also stop in to the cafe, next to the gift shop, for a snack or drink.

If visiting all four basilicas on your trip to Rome is a priority, then a trip to St. Paul’s Basilica is in order.  Many things set this particular basilica apart from the others in the city and certainly warrant visitation.  Although a little farther than the other attractions of the great city of Rome, it is not extremely difficult to reach and worth the extra effort to mark St. Paul’s off of your “church bucket list”.

 

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Basilica de San Paolo

  • http://www.basilicasanpaolo.org/
  • Piazzale San Paolo, 1,  00146 Roma
  • Admission:  Basilica entrance, free.  Cloister, €3.00
  • Hours:  Basilica, Daily, 0700-1830, Cloister, 0830-1815
  • Getting There:  Metro, Line B, stop, Basilica San Paolo.  Bus, Number 23 (Pincherle-Parravano), stop, Ostiense-S. Paolo

A House of Saints

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When visiting Padua, most people make their way down to Prato della Valle, the largest square in Italy.  Presiding at the south end of the square is a church that cannot be overlooked, especially for the extremely devout…Basilica di Santa Giustina.

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Giustina (Justine), the patron saint of Padua, was a virgin of royal birth and a disciple of St. Peter the Apostle.  At the age of 16, Justine suffered martyrdom during the Christian persecutions of Diocletian.  Tortured and beheaded, her body was taken to Rome where it was interred on the estate of a noble lady named Rufina and later entombed in Constantine’s basilica.

Justine’s remains were eventually taken back to the site of her martyrdom.  The Abbey of St. Giustina was founded in the 5th century on her tomb and during the 15th century became one of the most important monasteries in the area until its suppression by Napoleon in 1810. During the 6th century the church was dedicated to St. Justine.

imageEveryone should realize by now that I love visiting churches in Europe for their historical, architectural and artistic importance.  This one did not impress me…at first.  Not as elaborate as the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, both on the inside and out, this basilica, built in the 6th century, however, is the final resting place for not one, but many saints.  As I made a decision to enter, I was not aware of this.

The exterior of St. Giustina is unfortunately not finished, as with most churches in Padua and when entering, the basilica seems quite barren besides the 26 massive columns that fill the space.  Much of the artwork and sculpture were removed by Napoleon and brought to France.  The side chapels, however, are interesting and richly decorated.  The altarpiece of the grand high main altar is impressive, painted by Paolo Veronese, and represents the “Martyrdom of St. Giustina”.

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imageWalking down the right aisle of the church, you will find the Chapel of St. Matthew.  Through this chapel you will reach the Corridor of the Martyrs…this is a part of the church that cannot be missed.

imageA small frescoed chamber houses the bones of early Christian martyrs and further down the corridor, you will see the iron cage with the remains of the wooden coffin of St. Luke.  At the end of the corridor, you will reach the grave chapel of St. Prosdocimus, which is also the oldest church in Padua.  In the small vestibule to the chapel, you will find the tomb of St. Giustina on the left-hand side.   St. Luke, the author of the Acts of the Apostles and the Gospel of Luke, is interred at the end of the left transept of the church.  Other saints housed in the basilica are St. Maximus, St. Urius, St. Felicita, St. Julian and relics of St. Matthias.

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The old choir, which is adjacent to the major corridor, can be visited only with special permission.

It is possible to also visit the monastery that belongs to the Benedictine order.  Tour guides will accompany you in the most ancient part of the first basilica, through the cloisters and the rooms that house the fragments of the second basilica.

At the bottom of the South transept in the Martyrs’ Hall, religious objects and books can be purchased in the gift shop.  One of the most interesting things that can also be purchased here is an ancient cure once prepared in the apothecary of the Monastery…the Santa Giustina oil, used for muscle and joint pain and massage.

A most holy place, Santa Giustina should not be omitted from your plans while in Padua.  While I had not researched this church, I only ventured in while I was walking through Prato della Valle.  Realizing what significant historical importance it has within Catholicism, I am most grateful that I did.

 

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Abby of Santa Giustina

  • http://www.abbaziasantagiustina.org/
  • Prato della Valle, 35100, Padua, Italy
  • Admission:  free
  • Hours:  Spring/Summer, weekdays, 0730-1200 and 1500-2000, weekends, 0630-1300 and 1500-2000.  Autumn/Winter, weekdays, 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, weekends, 0800-1300 and 1500-2000.
  • Getting There:  Tram-stop  Prato della Valle http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf   One ride,  (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70,  Carnet of 9 tickets for €10.00,  Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00

 

The Finder of Lost Things and People

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Venice is one of my favorite cities to visit.  A stunning and fascinating place, I adore wandering the narrow alleyways, crossing the canals and viewing the beautiful Venetian architecture.

On this trip, I decided that as much as I love Venice, it was time to venture farther out and see what other nearby cities had to offer.  A couple of years ago, I had done a little research on the city of Padova (Padua), which claims to be the oldest city in Italy.  My knowledge of Padova was limited to knowing that St. Anthony, the patron saint of finding things or lost people, died in this historical city.  I was also aware that Padova is the setting for most of the action in Shakespeare’s The Taming of the Shrew. After finding that Padova was only 14 minutes by train, I decided that the pilgrimage city was going to be my destination.

Departing from the Mestre train station, we arrived in Padova rather quickly since there are no stops in between the two cities.  After disembarking, a quick stop at the Tourist Information Office, which is located in the train station, secured some maps and additional information.

Since the Basilica di Sant’Antonio is only open until 7:00 pm, we decided to head there first and then make our way through the city.  In the interest of time, we opted to purchase tickets to ride the tram which would take us right to our destination.  Outside of the station, to the right, there is a ticket machine and a ticket counter to purchase tram tickets.  Our tickets were soon in hand and we headed across the street to the Stazione FS tram stop.
imageThe tram ride was rather quick and we soon arrived at the Santo tram stop.  A short walk to the corner, a left turn and we were gazing upon the Basilica at the end of the street!

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Millions of pilgrims travel to Padova every year, to visit the Basilica di Sant’Antonio (St. Anthony).  It is here that St. Anthony’s grave is preserved.  St. Anthony, originally from Lisbon, was proclaimed a Doctor of the Church in 1946 and was the second-most quickly canonized saint in the Catholic Church, after Peter of Verona.

imageThe Basilica, known locally as “Il Santo”, offers a commanding view from its square with its Romanesque, Byzantine and Gothic influences.  Many tourists linger in the area as it is such a holy site and it is recognized as one of the eight international shrines by the Holy See.  Although it is visited by millions of people each year, it is not the main cathedral of the city, that being the Cathedral-Basilica of St. Mary of Padua.

Construction of the Basilica began shortly after the death of St. Anthony, in approximately 1232.  Its completion in 1310 was followed by several modifications to the structure at the end of the 14th and mid 15th centuries.  St. Anthony, although currently buried in the Basilica, had previously been interred, according to his will,  in the small church of Santa Maria Mater Domini.  This small church was incorporated into the present basilica as the Cappella della Madonna Mora (Chapel of the Dark Madonna).

Although I had been warned that we should expect a line to enter the Basilica, we encountered none.   The Basilica is extensive in size, and although there a large number of visitors, while traversing the interior, it did not feel extremely crowded.  Signs are posted at the entrance and within the Basilica prohibiting photography and inappropriate dress.

imageThe interior of the church is quite beautiful.  Many funerary monuments of noteworthy artistic value are housed in the Basilica.  Attention should be given to each of the side chapels and their contents.  The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament (Cappella del Santissimo Sacramento) on the right aisle, houses the tomb of the famous condottiero Gattamelata and his son Giannantonio along with a bronze tabernacle designed by Girolamo Campagna.

 

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Several important images of the Madonna can also be found throughout the Basilica.  One of extreme importance is the Madonna Mora, a statue of the Madonna with the Christ Child by the French sculptor Rainaldino di Puy-l’Evéque, dating from 1396.  The name Madonna Mora refers to her olive skin and black hair.  Another noteworthy piece located in the high altar area is a bronze Madonna with Child along with six statues of Saints by Donatello.

imageAt the rear of the Basilica, is the ornate baroque Treasury Chapel with its resplendent ceiling depicting hundreds of angels amidst the clouds.  In this chapel are housed the relics of St. Anthony, including his tongue, which was discovered to be intact in 1263 when his coffin was opened so that his remains could be placed under the high altar in the Basilica.  The body of St. Anthony, can be visited in the Chapel of Madonna Mora in the middle of the nave.  Expect to stand in line to visit both chapels.

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imageAnother part of the Basilica worth visiting is the peaceful cloisters in the Basilica. The Cloister of the Novices, constructed in the 15th century, offers a superb view of the Basilica, the Magnolia Cloister, offers a splendid magnolia tree planted in the middle of the nineteenth century cloister, the General’s Cloister, in which the rooms of the Ministers General overlook and the Cloister of Blessed Luca Belludi, whose present form dates back to the late fifteenth century. Adjacent to the Magnolia Cloister is a gift shop which offers rosaries, medals and many other religious items.  Near the entrance to the cloisters, within the church, sits a priest who will bless your items.

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The Basilica is one in Italy that cannot be missed for its religious, historical and architectural significance.  Easily reached by public transport, it should be made a priority when visiting the Venice area.

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The Basilica of St. Anthony

  • http://www.santantonio.org/en/basilica
  • Piazza del Santo, 35123 Padova PD
  • Hours:  Weekdays, January 1-March 26, 0620-1845, March 27-October 29, 0620-1945, October 30-December 31, 0620-1845.  Saturdays and Sundays, 0620-1945
  • Admission:  no charge
  • Getting There:   http://www.trenitalia.com/  From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.  From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
  • Getting There:  Padova Tram-stop Santo  http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf   One ride,  (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70,  Carnet of 9 tickets for €10,  Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grand Dom

© 2016  Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As you walk through the heart of Mainz, you encounter an impressive collection of beautifully decorated buildings and sculptures in the Domplatz (or Marktplatz).  Among these structures, the 1000 year old Roman Catholic cathedral still stands even after eighty percent of the city was destroyed during World War II.

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St. Martin’s Cathedral (also known as the Mainzer Dom or The Dom), of which construction began in 975 AD, was continually rebuilt and restored, finally reaching its present configuration mainly in the 13th and 14th centuries. Predominantly Romanesque in style and modeled at St. Peter’s in Rome, it has survived seven fires and endured many exterior additions over many centuries that have resulted in the appearance of various architectural influences seen today.

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The cathedral features a “High” altar and sanctuary at the East end dedicated to St. Stephen and a choir, presbytery and main altar for Mass at the West end.  All pews face west.  There is also a small double tiered Roman chapel, once the Bishop’s private chapel, on the southwest corner which is set aside for private prayer.  The interior of the cathedral houses tombs and funerary monuments of former powerful electoral-prince-archbishops of the diocese and contains many ancient religious works of art.

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Many of the supporting pillars along the aisles of the nave are decorated with carved and painted statues of German and French saints.  Among the most impressive furnishings in the sanctuary are rococo choir stalls and an early 14th century pewter baptismal font.  Because the interior of the cathedral was constructed from the local red sandstone, it can be a little dark, which may motivate the spiritually moved to light one of the many votive candles available for prayer intentions.

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After exploring the interior of the cathedral, take a few minutes to experience the tranquility of the courtyard which contains statues of Saint Boniface and The Madonna. If time allows, visit the cathedral’s Diocesan Museum which houses a collection of religious art and exhibitions of reliquaries and medieval sculpture.

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St. Martin’s Cathedral (Mainz Cathedral)

  • http://www.mainz-dom.de/
  • Address:  Markt 10, 55116 Mainz, Germany
  • Hours:  March-October, Monday-Friday, 9:00-18:30, Saturday, 9:00-16:00, Sunday, 12:45-15:00 and 16:00-18:30.  November-February, Monday-Friday, 9:00-17:00, Saturday, 9:00-15:30, Sunday, 12:45-15:00 and 16:00-17:00
  • Admission:  free, donations accepted
  • Services:  High Mass, Sundays, 10:00.  Vesper service, 15:00.  Additional masses on Sundays, 7:00, 8:00, 11:30.  Weekdays, 6:25, 7:30, 8:15 and 16:45.

 

Diocesan Museum

  • Museum Hours:  Tuesday-Sunday, 9:00-17:00
  • Museum Admission:  Adults, € 5,00, Children, € 3,50

     

     

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Cathedral of Lima

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The Cathedral of Lima, dedicated to St. John the Apostle and Evangelist, presides on the eastern side of the Plaza de Armas and is truly a magnificent work of art, a far cry from its modest beginnings.

It has been told that in January 18, 1535, the Spanish conquistador and founder of Lima,  Francisco Pizarro placed the first stone, taken from an Inca temple located on this site, and carried over his shoulders the first log used in the construction of the Cathedral.

Over the years, many earthquakes have necessitated the repairs and reconstruction of the Cathedral, most notably the earthquakes of 1746 and 1940. Still retaining its colonial structure and facade, it is important to note when entering the structure, the three large doorways, which are in keeping with the majority of cathedrals.  The main or central doorway is called the Portada del Perdon or the “door of forgiveness”.  Above the doorways is the Peruvian seal and the phrase “Plus Ultra” rather than Lima’s coat of arms.

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Carved in stone and ornamented with exquisite details and decorations, the front of the cathedral is flanked by the two high towers with spires of slate which were added around 1800.

After entering the cathedral and paying the entry fee of 10 sols, you are free to wander throughout the cathedral and the Religious Art Museum which is housed within the cathedral.  A guided tour may be taken or one can self-guide through the Cathedral using the pamphlet dispersed with the ticket.

Due to the reparations stemming from the earthquakes, the interior is a sight to behold displaying a mix of late Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassic elements. Beautiful vaulted ceilings, checkerboard flooring, a gold plated main altar and intricately carved choir stalls are most notable, however, taking the time to inspect each of the fourteen chapels is highly recommended.  A map is handed out to each guest, with your paid admission, detailing the side chapels.  One of the chapels,  opens on to Calle de Judios (Street of the Jews) and another on to the Patio de los Naranjos (Square of the Orange Trees), which is connected to the Cathedral.

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The first chapel in the left aisle, holds the ancient baptistery.  Ancient pictures found recently in this chapel, have been restored and are on display for the public.  This chapel is followed by the Capilla de la Sagrada Familia (Chapel of the Holy Family) featuring figures of Jesus, Mary and Joseph.  I highly recommend spending a few minutes admiring each chapel’s unique qualities.

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As you make your way to rear of the Cathedral, you will find your way to the Religious Art Museum within the old sacristy.  The museum displays a large collection of historical objects including painting, sculptures, furniture, jewelry, sacred vessels and religious vestments and robes of former archbishops.

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Also at the rear of the Cathedral is a large crypt.  Many remains can be seen here, including a display of skulls in a glass-fronted niche.  Another oddity, a glass case situated in the floor, contains about a dozen or so extremely small coffins.

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The tomb of Francisco Pizarro also is housed within the Cathedral as you walk in on the right hand side.  A most interesting story, the mummified remains of the conquistador were on display in a glass casket in the Cathedral of Lima for almost a century.  The remains were visited by Catholic and Spanish pilgrims and studied by historians.  Imagine the shock when in 1977, workers uncovered a casket engraved with the words, “Here is the skull of the Marquis Don Francisco Pizarro who discovered and won Peru and placed it under the crown of Castile.”

 

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Another unique find within the Cathedral is a tea shop opened a couple of years ago.  When visiting La Teteria, visitors can choose from a menu of teas and nutritious baked pastries and breads.  While the tea shop is housed within the Cathedral, it can be visited independently by simply asking at the main doors of the church.

Although I found the San Francisco Church to be much more impressive and beautiful, I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Cathedral.  For the history buff and the architecturally obsessed, it is a must-see on your trip to Lima.

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Cathedral of Lima

  • Address:  Jirón Carabaya, Lima 15001, Peru
  • Admission:  10 sols (about $3) includes admission to cathedral and museum. Combination ticket of 30 sols (about $9)  includes the Archbishops Palace and the Cathedral, including museum
  • Hours:  Monday-Friday 9:00-17:00, Saturday, 10:00-13:00, Sunday, 13:00-17:00

 

A Utrecht Stopover

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After our visit to the opulent De Haar Castle, the return to Amsterdam was taking us back again through Utrecht.  Seeing an opportunity to circumnavigate the ancient city center, albeit quickly, we decided to hop off of the train and make quick work of seeing a few landmarks.

Finally exiting the train station, after wandering aimlessly through the adjacent shopping center, a quick stop was made for soup and a sandwich.  Realizing that the day was drawing to a close, I wanted to show my friend, Leianne, a few of the things that I had appreciated on a prior visit.

While at the castle, we had learned of the destruction that had been caused by a hurricane in 1674.  The same storm had torn through the city and destroyed the nave of St. Martin’s Cathedral, or the Dom Church as it is more commonly known.  The Church and the Dom Tower still stand separated by the non-existent nave, now the Domplein, a square with trees.  Once the Netherlands’ largest church, dedicated to St. Martin of Tours, it was also the cathedral of the Diocese of Utrecht during the Middle Ages.  The tower, the hallmark of the city, is the tallest church tower in the Netherlands.  Standing at 367 feet high, it is on the spot where the city of Utrecht originated almost 2,000 years ago.

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St. Martin’s Cathedral (Dom Church)
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Cathedral interior
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Dom Tower

As we walked up the street toward these two magnificent structures we passed underneath the Dom Tower.  Exiting on the church side, it was easy to imagine the hurricane force winds that caused the destruction many years ago.  The wind was blowing so hard that we were almost unable to put one foot in front of the other.

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Walkway through Dom Tower

Although we did not have time to do so on this day, climbing the Dom Tower can be a wonderful opportunity to see Utrecht from a higher vantage point.  On a prior trip, I climbed the 465 steps to the top, stopping halfway to view the historic bells and the 17th century Hemony carillon.

Once we completed our visit of St. Martin’s Cathedral, we ducked into the Pandhof (courtyard) which is located between St. Martin’s Cathedral and the University Hall at Domplein.  The Pandhof is a peaceful and picturesque monastery garden, where ornamental plants and herbs bloom.  In the center of the garden is a fountain with a bronze statue of the 14th century priest Hugo Wstinc.  One of the most beautiful enclosed gardens in Holland, it is worthy of a few minutes to step inside…and if you are lucky, there will be someone utilizing the magnificent acoustics and playing music for your enjoyment (or for a euro or two!)

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Pandhof Entry and corridor
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Pandhof
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Musician utilizing the acoustics at Pandhof

As the day ended, we walked around a bit more, just checking out the beautiful architecture and relaxed atmosphere that Utrecht has to offer, before making our return to Amsterdam.  Having previously visited Utrecht, I know all that the city extends to visitors. Hopefully, despite the short time here, my friend gained some insight in to what a great place it is to spend time and she will return to inspect it further!

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Utrecht

  • Getting there:  Amsterdam Central to Utrecht, approximately 25 minutes, 5-6 departures per hour, approximtely 17€ roundtrip

Dom Tower

  • http://www.domtoren.nl/en
  • Hours:  Tuesday through Saturday, 10:00-17:00, Sunday and Monday, 12:00-17:00
  • Admission:  Adults, 9€, Children (ages 4-12) 5€, Students/+65, 7,50€

St. Martin’s Cathedral

  • http://www.domkerk.nl/
  • Admission:  Donations accepted
  • Daily, May-September 10:00-17:00, October-April 11:00-16:00, Saturday 10:00/11:00-15:30, Sunday 12:30-16:00

 

Where Are You Going?

© 2016  Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

While visiting the catacombs on the Appian Way, it is worth taking a few minutes to step into the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante (Church of St. Mary in Palmis), otherwise known as Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis.

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Having heard of this church, I wasn’t aware of it’s location near the catacombs. After our visit to San Callixtus, our tour guide recommended the short walk to visit this holy site.  Located about 800 meters from the St. Sebasian Gate, Quo Vadis is a small baroque-style church built on the site, according to the bible, in which St. Peter met Jesus while St. Peter was fleeing persecution in Rome.  Peter asked Jesus, “Lord, where are you going?” (Latin: Domine, quo vadis?)  Jesus answered, “I am going to Rome to be crucified again”.

A marble slab is on display at the center of the church.  A copy of the original, which is kept in the nearby Basilica of San Sebastiano fuori le mura, the slab contains the imprint of what is believed to be Jesus’ feet. Considered to be a miraculous sign, the footprints are what gave the church its name…palmis refers to the soles of the feet.

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Prior to 1845, there was an inscription above the front door on the church’s façade which said, “Stop your walking traveler and enter this sacred temple in which you will find the footprint of our Lord Jesus Christ when He met with St. Peter who escaped from the prison.  An alms for the wax and the oil is recommended in order to free some spirits from Purgatory”.  Pope Gregory XVI found the advertising tone of the inscription very inappropriate and ordered its removal.

In this small church, you will also see a bust of Henryk Sienkiewicz, the Polish author of the famous historical fiction novel Quo Vadis: A Narrative of the Time of Nero which was published in 1886.  It is said that Sienkiewicz was inspired to write his novel while sitting in this church.

In 1983, Pope John Paul II defined the chapel as “a place that has a special importance in the history of Rome and in the history of the church”.

After your visit to Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante it is an easy return to Rome.  Step outside of the church;  the bus stop (#118 and #218) to Rome is located immediately to the right.

 

 

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Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante

  • casmadrid@tiscalinet.it
  • Via Appia Antica, 51, Rome Italy
  • Hours:  0800-1800, daily.  Summer closing time 1900.
  • Masses:  Winter weekdays, 1800, summer weekdays 1900, holidays, 0900, 1100, 1800 (winter), 1900 (summer)

Transportation

  • Bus #118 from Circus Maximus or Piazza Venezia
  • Bus #218 from Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano