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While visiting the catacombs on the Appian Way, it is worth taking a few minutes to step into the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante (Church of St. Mary in Palmis), otherwise known as Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis.
Having heard of this church, I wasn’t aware of it’s location near the catacombs. After our visit to San Callixtus, our tour guide recommended the short walk to visit this holy site. Located about 800 meters from the St. Sebasian Gate, Quo Vadis is a small baroque-style church built on the site, according to the bible, in which St. Peter met Jesus while St. Peter was fleeing persecution in Rome. Peter asked Jesus, “Lord, where are you going?” (Latin: Domine, quo vadis?) Jesus answered, “I am going to Rome to be crucified again”.
A marble slab is on display at the center of the church. A copy of the original, which is kept in the nearby Basilica of San Sebastiano fuori le mura, the slab contains the imprint of what is believed to be Jesus’ feet. Considered to be a miraculous sign, the footprints are what gave the church its name…palmis refers to the soles of the feet.
Prior to 1845, there was an inscription above the front door on the church’s façade which said, “Stop your walking traveler and enter this sacred temple in which you will find the footprint of our Lord Jesus Christ when He met with St. Peter who escaped from the prison. An alms for the wax and the oil is recommended in order to free some spirits from Purgatory”. Pope Gregory XVI found the advertising tone of the inscription very inappropriate and ordered its removal.
In this small church, you will also see a bust of Henryk Sienkiewicz, the Polish author of the famous historical fiction novel Quo Vadis: A Narrative of the Time of Nero which was published in 1886. It is said that Sienkiewicz was inspired to write his novel while sitting in this church.
In 1983, Pope John Paul II defined the chapel as “a place that has a special importance in the history of Rome and in the history of the church”.
After your visit to Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante it is an easy return to Rome. Step outside of the church; the bus stop (#118 and #218) to Rome is located immediately to the right.
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Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante
- casmadrid@tiscalinet.it
- Via Appia Antica, 51, Rome Italy
- Hours: 0800-1800, daily. Summer closing time 1900.
- Masses: Winter weekdays, 1800, summer weekdays 1900, holidays, 0900, 1100, 1800 (winter), 1900 (summer)
Transportation
- Bus #118 from Circus Maximus or Piazza Venezia
- Bus #218 from Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano