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There are sixty known subterranean burial chambers in Rome, built along Roman roads, like the Via Appia, the Via Ostiense, the Via Labicana, the Via Tiburtina and the Via Nomentana. San Callixtus, Domitilla’s Catacombs, Saint Sebastian and Priscilla, among the sixty, each present a wealth of history.
After much research on the subject, a decision was made to visit San Callixtus catacombs as it was the oldest, the largest and held the tombs of almost all of the popes of the third century. Further research provided information on travel to San Callixtus. Since the catacomb is closed from 12:00-2:00 pm, a decision was made to try and reach the destination for the re-opening after lunch.
Our journey to San Callixtus was certainly a lesson in discerning correct data from the internet. There is a lot of information available on the internet, but careful attention should be paid as to when this information was posted. Bus lines, hours and admissions change constantly. A post that suggests certain routes may be outdated, as was the case for this adventure.
Beginning our journey to San Callixtus on the metro, we arrived at the Piramides stop with the intention of taking the #118 bus. Emerging from the station, we began to search for the bus stop. After walking the entire block around the station and not locating it, we finally asked a local gentleman for directions. Unfortunately, what we discovered was that bus #118 no longer runs from this station and his suggestion was that we backtrack on the metro to Circus Maximus in order to catch the same bus there.
Walking up to the street from the Circus Maximus metro station, I quickly spied the bus stop across the street. When the first bus arrived, we found that tickets could not be purchased from the driver and we had to return to the metro station to purchase a ticket (which is the same ticket as a metro ticket). If you have just arrived on the metro, you should be able to use your same ticket for the bus (tickets are good for 100 minutes), however, make sure that you have purchased a ticket for your return, as we did not see any places to purchase tickets near the catacombs.
Finally boarding the bus, we were soon headed toward the Appian Way…or so we thought. We soon realized that the bus comes from the Appian Way, passes Circus Maximus, heads down to Piazza Venezia and then returns to Circus Maximus on its way back to the Appian Way. So, if you decide to catch the #118 bus from Circus Maximus, take a left while facing the actual Circus Maximus when you walk out of the metro station and catch the bus on the same side of Via del Circo Massimo. This will eliminate an extra 10 minutes of a very bumpy bus ride.
The bus did not have signage or announcements stating the upcoming stops. We had never been in this part of Rome and were concerned about knowing where to disembark, so after asking the bus driver to alert us, he soon made us aware that we were arriving at San Callixtus.
Entering through the front gate, we proceeded down the pathway to the ticket office. After purchasing our tickets, we walked over to the entryway but found that guests are not allowed to enter the catacombs unescorted. The guided tours depart on the half hour and we had just missed one. Occupying ourselves, we walked around the immediate area and visited the gift shop. When we were nearing the half hour mark, we took our places near the signs which designated the different language groups. Soon, the tour guides began to arrive and began summoning us, by group, to the entrance. Our tour guide, a Filipino brother, ushered us off the main pathway where he could deliver the history of the catacombs. This is also where he shared the most devastating information that I could have received…no pictures! This news was very disappointing as I was looking forward to documenting our look into this historical place.
Finally, it was our turn to descend the steep stairs into the catacombs.
The catacombs of St. Callixtus are among the most important in Rome. Originating around the middle of the second century, there are more than fifty martyrs, 16 popes and many Christians buried within the complex. St. Callixtus became the official cemetery of the Church of Rome at the beginning of the third century after the deacon Callixtus was appointed by Pope Zephyrinus as the administrator of the cemetery.
Rome’s Christians did not have their own cemeteries in the first century. Unless they owned land, they resorted to common cemeteries, where pagans were also buried. During the second century, the first large-scale catacombs were carved through soft volcanic rock outside the city’s limits because burial within Rome’s walls was forbidden by law. Underground burial quickly became popular due to the high price of land and for the sense of community it gave. In addition to burials, the catacombs also served as hiding places for Christians during times of persecution.
During our tour though the many labyrinths beneath the earth, there were countless open chambers in which bodies had been placed and bound in linen. Each chamber was then sealed with a slab bearing the name, age and the day of death. No bones still exist in St. Callixtus to the degree as one would see in the catacombs of Paris.
Most notable in San Callixtus is the area known as “the little Vatican” or the area of the Popes”. Here, the nine popes and eight dignitaries of Rome’s third century church were laid to rest. Another area of interest is the Crypt of St. Cecelia, the patron saint of music, who was martyred in the third century and entombed where a statue now lies in remembrance. In 821, her relics were transferred from San Callixtus to Trastevere to the basilica dedicated to her.
Tours of San Callixtus usually last approximately 30-40 minutes; however, our tour guide was very thorough and provided a great deal of information. Our tour eventually lasted almost an hour. Walking away from San Callixtus, we felt very satisfied with the type of tour we were given and with the number of people in our English speaking tour group. Because San Callixtus has the largest parking lot, it tends to attract immense numbers of tour groups and tour buses. Expect long waits during summer months and busy times of the year. And make sure to visit the gift shop to purchase postcards of the interior! Remember, no pictures!!!
After, visiting San Callixtus, you can return to the bus stop in front of the entrance to catch the #118 and #218 buses or wander down the road at the rear of the property. Following this road takes you to the Church of St. Mary in Palmis and the #118 or #218 bus stop for your return back to the center of Rome.
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Transportation
- Bus #118 from Circus Maximus or Piazza Venezia
- Bus #218 from Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano
San Callixtus
- Open year round, except on Christmas, New Year’s Day and Easter Sunday
- Hours: 0900-1200, 1400-1700, last tour departing at 1700
- Admission: Adults, € 8, Children € 5