Paris – Page 2 – Snapping The Globe

What’s That Smell?

Love museums but sensitive to strong odors?

Read no further. This is not the museum for you!

There are a multitude of museums to choose from when visiting Paris…The Louvre, Musée D’Orsay, Rodin Museum, Galeries Nationale du Grand Palais, Petite Palais…the list goes on. But what do you do when you’ve been to them all? What if you are looking for a museum that offers something more unique than sculpture or paintings?

The Musée des Égouts de Paris (The Paris Sewer Museum) is a museum near the Pont D’Alma (Alma Bridge), on Paris’ Left Bank, that concentrates on the history of the city’s sewage and water treatment from its initial development in the 14th century.

Having been my second visit to this unique, walk through history, I was excited to take my son…after all, what teenaged boy wouldn’t think that going underground in Paris is cool? (and besides…the catacombs were closed!)

Heavy rains had fallen the night before and when we arrived at the ticket kiosk, a few minutes before the scheduled opening, we found the window half drawn and a sign stating that the museum was closed due to flooding. A worker sweeping water away from the structure, spoke with me in French and with the little bit of the language that I understand, I gathered that maybe it would be open later in the day.

As we stood there, trying to figure out an alternative plan, we watched many people arrive, read the sign and walk away, thus proving what a popular attraction it actually is.

Deciding on a boat ride down the Seine, we were on our return when I noticed that we were approaching the Pont D’Alma bridge. Taking to the top deck, I watched for the Musée des Égouts’ kiosk…the window was open and there was a small line!

Making our way back to the kiosk and purchasing our tickets, we were soon descending the stairs to the museum.

The first thing that you notice when entering the museum is the strong smell. Of course, there are billions of gallons of water, filled with raw sewage, rushing through here each minute, so of course it is to be expected. Breathing shallowly, I tried not to think about it and enjoyed learning about the workings of the sewer system and just overall being someplace where most people don’t ever get to go!

The museum showcases equipment used throughout the system and highlights the history of how running water came to be so long ago in Paris. All signage is in both French and English and the 500 meter path is easy to follow and decently lit.

At the end of the self-guided tour, there is a small gift shop (in the event your need a stuffed rat, to remind you of your visit) and restrooms.

For the Paris visitor who has seen it all, the Musee des Egouts is a wonderful way to get a different perspective of the city. And…for the first time visitor, squeeze it in between your visit to the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower…it takes less than an hour and is something interesting that you can tell your friends at home about!

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Musée des Égouts de Paris

http://www.egouts.tenebres.eu/visite.php
Address: Pont de l’Alma, place de la R�sistance, face au 93 quai d’Orsay.
75007 Paris
Hours: May 1 until September 30, 1100-1700, October 1 until April 30, 1100-1600
Admission: Adults, €4.20, Children (ages 6-16 years), €3.40, Children (under 6), free
Getting There: Metro, Line 9, Alma-Marceau station. RER train, Line C, Pont de L’Alma station. Bus, lines 63 and 80 at Alma-Marceau stop.

Seafaring on the Seine

The Seine has always played an important role in Paris.

Two Olympic games’ events were held here in the early 1900s.

The river divides the city into the two different areas, the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) and the Right Bank (Rive Droite), both with very distinct personalities.

Beautiful architecture, in the form of bridges, cross many areas of the tributary…some of the most noteworthy are Pont Neuf, Pont D’Austerlitz, Pont St. Michel, Pont Des Invalides, Pont Marie, Pont du Carrousel, Pont Royal, Pont Alexandre III, Pont de Bir-Hakeim.

The Seine provides a means of transportation and entertainment…maritime river vessels transport goods through the city and boats carry passengers on sight-seeing voyages and dinner cruises up and down the waterway.

Every year, millions of visitors arrive in Paris, hoping to see the city from all angles. At some point during their visit, most make their way to the Seine…walking along the river and taking in views of the Eiffel Tower or crossing the river to access other parts of the city.

One of the most popular attractions in Paris are the bateau-mouches, or river boats and there are a few different companies to choose from, including Vedettes de Paris, Bateaux Mouches and Bateaux Parisiennes. Having only cruised on one of these companies, Bateaux Mouches, I really did not have much of an opinion on why one would be better than the others. Same sights, different boats, right?

Recently, my son and I decided to make good on a boat ride. On his thirteenth birthday trip to Paris, we had planned to take a river cruise one evening. It was extremely cold and windy and other activities encroached on our time. Leaving Paris knowing we had missed out on one of the prime ways to see the city, we were quite disappointed. While he was with me in Paris again, we were definitely not going to miss out.

Taking a walk towards the Eiffel Tower, it was almost lunch time. Grabbing sandwiches, our plan was to take the next departure on the closest boat company, Bateaux Parisiennes, and have our lunch on the boat…only, our plan did not work. We just missed the boat and had to eat our lunch while waiting for the next one to depart. Lesson learned…make sure you know the departure times.

Boarding the Bateaux Parisiennes boat, I was quite impressed with the accommodations. Instead of rows of seats, all facing foward, there were small seating areas near the windows and a raised row of seats at the center to accommodate larger crowds, all covered in a nice, light-colored woodgrain. Many television monitors were strategically placed throughout the boat showing upcoming scenery and retractable handsets offered a detailed commentary of the passing attractions. A stairway at the center of the boat led to the top of the boat where benches lined the exterior for those (like us) willing the brave the misty afternoon. There was also a vending area at the rear of the bottom level with soft drinks and snacks available and the boat was extremely neat and clean.

Passing the famous buildings and attractions, we decided to brave the misty weather and go to the top of the boat for a while. Coasting by Jardin des Tuileries, The Louvre, Musee D’Orsay, and finally Ile de La Cité, where Notre Dame presides in all of its glory, we had a prime view of the famous landmarks and the upper deck almost to ourselves as we glided under the beautiful bridges that cross the Seine.

The boat finally rounded Ile de La Cité and began it’s return journey.

As we passed our starting point and admired the Eiffel Tower, I assumed we were on our way to Swan Island to make the turn and view the Statue of Liberty. Sadly, though I remember seeing the Statue of Liberty on previous trips, we did not go that far and returned to our starting point.

After docking, we were free to leave and continue our exploration on foot along the Seine.

When visiting the beautiful city of Paris, grab some snacks and drinks and head down to the Seine. Try one of the river boats and see the city from a different perspective! Or better yet, try one of the dinner cruises on their restaurant boats! Night or day, it’s a lovely way to enjoy the city.

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Bateaux Parisiennes

http://www.bateauxparisiens.com/english.html
Address: Port de la Bourdonnais, 75007 Paris, France (just in front of the Eiffel Tower)
Hours: October-March, 1030-2200, departures approximately every hour. April-September, 1000-2230 (2300, Aug), departures approximately every half hour. Additional departures from Notre Dame from April-November. See website for more detailed information.
Admission: €15
Getting There: Metro, Line 6, Bir-Hakeim stop, Line 9, Trocadero stop, Bus 42, 92, RER, Line C, Champs de Mars – Tour Eiffel stop

The Dead Residents

Paris has many beautiful and interesting cemeteries.

Pere Lachaise, the largest and most famous, is located in the 20th arrondissement of Paris. Established in 1804, by Napoleon, the cemetery is notorious for its famous inhabitants, including Irish novelist, poet and playwright, Oscar Wilde, French singer, Edith Pilaf, Italian painter and sculptor, Amedeo Modigliani, Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, French playwright, Moliere, Opera singer, Maria Callas, and American singer and songwriter, Jim Morrison.

Known as the first big cemetery outside the city walls of Paris, it is one that many visitors to Paris seek out.

Making my way from Montparnasse, it was a bit of a hike to Pere Lachaise, however, I was anxious to visit this cemetery that had been on my Paris To Do list for some time.

Arriving at the metro stop, Pere Lachaise, I found a secondary gate located just across the street. Just inside the doorway was a large map detailing the 118 acre cemetery and locations of its most famous burial sites.

Wandering along the avenues and pathways within the cemetery and its moss-covered tombs, I soon passed the main gate. Checking the posted map again, I began my search for Jim Morrison’s grave. Walking uphill and minding my steps on the cobblestones in the misty afternoon, I found the masses of gravesites and lack of signage quite confusing. Noticing the number of other people seemingly heading the same direction, I continued my quest. Finally, spotting a large group and their tour guide, one pathway over, I realized that I had found my destination.

Surrounded by a fence, The Doors’ lead singer’s grave was a bit of an anticlimax. Pere Lachaise cemetery is filled with many elaborate, large-scale mausoleums and crypts. Jim Morrison’s was very minimal though covered with flowers. A constant stream of visitors came and went as I stood there. Noticing a tree, next to the fenced area, covered in bamboo, I approached it and began reading the many notes inscribed on each of the bamboo slats and inspecting the mementos slipped between the slats. Forty-five years after his death, it’s obvious that Mr. Morrison has left a lasting impression on the world and still has many fans to this day.

Leaving the grave and making my way uphill toward the rear of Pere Lachaise, my next destination was the burial site of Oscar Wilde. Not very difficult to find, but requiring a bit of stamina, Mr. Wilde’s tomb is a modern structure designed by sculptor Jacob Epstein.

Surrounded by Plexiglas, I was surprised to see many bright red lipstick marks on the barrier. A sign on the barrier states that anyone caught defacing the tomb or the barrier is subject to a fine. Not sure about the marks, I did some research and found that since the 1990’s, female fans began leaving lipstick marks on the tomb…so many, in fact, that the outward appearance of the sculpture had a red appearance. Many cleanings were required, each rendering the stone more porous and thus requiring more in-depth cleanings which further damaged the tomb. After the Plexiglas barrier was erected, fans have continued to leave “kisses” for the creator of The Importance of Being Earnest.

As the close of the cemetery approached, I wandered throughout the cemetery, admiring the old crumbling tombstones, the grandiose chapels and intricate sculptures. Passing the Communard’s Wall, where one hundred forty-seven combatants of the Paris Commune were shot and thrown into an open trench a the foot of the wall in 1871, the Crematorium, Mausoleum and the Monument Eleve Par Etats, which contains the bones of 2500 soldiers, killed in action during the Siege of Paris from 1870-1871, I retraced my steps to the exit.

With the misty rain gaining momentum and the closing hour near, it was time to leave the peaceful graveyard. Knowing that I had concentrated on two of the major burial sites, a mental note was made of the ones that I was unable to locate on this visit.

Another tidbit I discovered while researching the cemetery after my visit…take the metro to Gambetta and enter the cemetery’s gate northeast of the Crematorium, making your walk through the cemetery a downhill one.

With so much to discover, whichever way you enter to historic memorial park, you won’t be disappointed.

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Pere Lachaise Cemetery

http://www.perelachaisecemetery.com/
Address: 16 rue du Repos, 75020 Paris, France (Belleville / Père Lachaise)
Hours: November 6-March 15, Monday-Saturday, 0800-1730, Sundays and Holidays, 0900-1730. March 16-November 5, 0800-1800, Sundays and Holidays, 0900-1800.
Admission: free
Getting There: Metro stops, Pere Lachaise, Gambetta

Calling All Dan Brown Fans

A note on display in the church of St. Sulpice in Paris reads:

Contrary to fanciful allegations in a recent best-selling novel, this (the line in the floor) is not a vestige of a pagan temple. No such temple ever existed in the place. It was never called a Rose Line. It does not coincide with the meridian traced through the middle of the Paris Observatory which serves as a reference for maps where longitudes are measured in degrees East or West of Paris. Please also note that the letters “P” and “S” in the small round windows at both ends of the transept refer to Peter and Sulpice, the patron saints of the church, and not an imaginary “Priory of Sion”.

If you are a fan of Dan Brown’s 2003 novel, The Da Vince Code, then, this note will make complete sense. Since the release of the international bestseller and the subsequent movie, crowds of tourists have flocked to Saint-Sulpice, in the City of Lights, to see the Rose Line.

Admittedly, though a fan of churches, this is the real reason that I decided to visit St. Sulpice…not because it is the second largest church in the city (behind Notre Dame), not because the Marquis de Sade was baptized here or even to hear the renowned organists.

I wanted to see what the heck Dan Brown was talking about!

St. Sulpice, a Roman Catholic church in the Luxembourg Quarter, was founded in 1646 by parish priest Jean-Jacques Olier and the first stone was laid by Anne of Austria.

The Late Baroque church was built over the span of a decade with construction beginning in 1646. Various architects contributed to the multitude of designs and the interior structure was completed in 1745. Damaged and turned into a Temple of Victory during the Revolution, it was restored and redecorated in the 19th century.

Known for being the site of the christenings of Marquis de Sade and Charles Baudelaire and the wedding of author Victor Hugo, it is also known for its resplendent artwork and chapels.

Most noteworthy are the Delacroix frescoes in the Chapel of the Angels and Servandoni’s Rococo Chapel of the Madonna, with a Pigalle statue of the Virgin. Another chapel contains the tomb of Curé Languet de Gergy who founded the world’s first pediatric hospital and oversaw the completion of the house of worship. To the right of the entrance, take note of the two halves of an enormous shell. Functioning as holy water fonts, these were given to King Francis I by the Venetion Republic and rest on rock-like bases sculpted by Jean-Baptiste Pigalle.

The main focus of the church is its organ. One of the world’s largest, with 6,588 pipes, it was constructed by Aristide Cavaille-Coll, the case was designed by Chalgrin and the statues were made by Clodion. Having been played by many famous musicians, it is still known for its music and many concerts are still held in St. Sulpice to this day.

Once you’ve checked out these fascinating aspects of the church, it is time to see what Dan Brown referred to in his book.

Near the middle of the nave on the right side, near a stone statue with a Latin inscription, look for the meridian line…a narrow brass strip that runs north across the nave and transept to an obelisk next to the statue of St. Peter. Used to study the planets and determine the date of Easter each year, it works when the sun’s rays enter the church through a small opening in the south transept and rest on the line at various points throughout the year. On the winter solstice, the rays hit the obelisk. On the spring and autumn equinoxes, the rays hit the bronze table.

The Da Vinci Code depicts an important scene in St. Sulpice which takes place around the meridian line. An albino monk. Silas, searches for a keystone which is believed to unlock the secret of the Holy Grail. In the book, the meridian line is described as the Rose Line and explained as being the original zero-longitude line which passed through Paris before being moved to Greenwich, England. The monk, follows the line to the obelisk, only to find that he was misled in his search.

The meridian line was easy to find and there were many other visitors also taking a peek.

Envisioning the scene, it took me back to 2003 when I read the book in two days, so captivated by its story. I almost expected to see Silas, not only a monk, but an assassin, attacking Sister Sandrine!

Captivated by St. Sulpice, I spent more time walking around its interior and making sure not to miss any part of its beauty and history.

Exiting the building, I longed to see the fountain, designed by Visconti and which bears the sculptures of the four bishops of the Louis XIV era…Fenelon, Massillon, Bossuet and Flechier, however, a Christmas market was being set up in the square in front of the church. The area around the fountain and market was barricaded, not only prohibiting a close-up look at the fountain, but a wider-angled views of the façade of the church and its two mismatched towers.

When in the Luxembourg Quarter, in the 6th arrondissement, follow the signs (or the Rose Line!) to St. Sulpice. Dan Brown or not, it is a church most worth visiting in Paris!

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St. Sulpice Church

http://pss75.fr/saint-sulpice-paris/
Address: Place Saint-Sulpice, 2, rue Palatine, 75006 PARIS
Hours: Daily, 0730-1930
Admission: free
Masses are held Monday-Saturday, 0700, 0900, 1205, and 1845; Sunday, 0700, 0900, 1030, 1205, 1845
How to Get There: Metro stop, Saint-Sulpice. Buses 58, 63, 70, 86, 87, 89, and 95 stop near the church.

A View From The Top

Paris is a remarkable city. With an abundance of things to experience, it is a destination of which one never tires. Having not been in Paris for a couple of years, I was excited to see some areas that I have frequented on past visits and some sights that I had not yet had the pleasure.

Leaving the hotel, I decided to walk down the street to the Denfert-Rochambeau metro stop and inspect the line for the catacombs. A few years ago, I visited this eerie attraction, but had to wait in line for a couple of hours to enter. Finding the line wrapped around the circle to where I had joined last time and then way past, I decided that I was unwilling to devote that much time when there were so many other things to see, especially on a beautiful sunny day.

Jumping on the RER train at the adjacent metro/train station, I decided to head north to the Luxembourg stop. Arriving across from Luxembourg Gardens, I walked west in the 5^th arrondisement toward my destination, The Pantheon.

Having been to the Pantheon in Rome, which this one was modeled after, I have also walked past this one in Paris’ Latin Quarter, many times. For some reason, however, I had never ventured inside this Parisian landmark, most likely in recent years because it was under renovation. Proceeding through the gates, toward the entrance, I made note of the inscription above, “Aux Grands Hommes La Patrie Reconnaissante” (“For great men the grateful Nation”). This sums up what the Pantheon is all about.

In 1744, an ill King Louis XV vowed that if he recovered, the church of the Abbey of St. Genevieve would be replaced with one worthy of the patron saint of Paris. Construction began in 1757, with Jacques-German Soufflot in charge of the design.

After its completion, (named Sainte-Genevieve Church during this time) The French Revolution was in full swing. Changing the church into a mausoleum, the Revolutionist government deemed it a place to bury exceptional Frenchmen who had sacrificed their lives for their country or who had done something great for France. Although it flipped back and forth between church and mausoleum during the next few years, it now remains the latter, entombing the likes of Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Marat, Louis Pasteur, Jean Moulin, Marie Curie, Emile Zola, Louis Braille and its architect, Soufflot on its lower level.

While purchasing my ticket, I was also given the option of taking the tour of the dome, which departs at predetermined times. Since the next tour was scheduled in 45 minutes, I decided that it would be worth the 2 euro to see the Pantheon in its entirety as well as the spectacular panoramic views of the city.

For those obsessed with architecture, walking into the Pantheon is breathtaking. The main dome and its oculus is an architectural wonder, still holding the record for the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome. The oculus and the entry door are the only sources of natural light and the oculus also serves as a cooling and ventilation method. The interior walls are decorated with paintings and mosaics of scenes from French history and offers many sculptures by Pierre-Jean David D’Angers of post-Revolutionary patriots.

Another important display within the Pantheon is Foucault’s Pendulum. In 1851, French physicist, Leon Foucault, designed a simple device as an experiment to demonstrate the rotation of the earth. The most famous of the Foucault Pendulums is on display here, suspended from the Pantheon’s dome and attracts a large crowd to watch the pendulum swing clockwise 11 degrees per hour, making the full circle in 32.7 hours.

Walking toward the rear of the Pantheon, I then headed down the steps toward the crypt. When entering the subterranean crypt, stunning frescoes depict scenes from the life of St. Genevieve. The area encompassing the many tombs is quite massive, taking you in three separate directions. The crypt area has a very modern feel and many displays offer history and information on the interred.

Finally heading upstairs, I proceeded to join the large number of other tourists in the cordoned-off area for the dome tour. Escorted by a multilingual tour guide up a multitude of stairs, we gathered for a quick stop on a mezzanine for a bird’s eye view of the Pantheon’s interior and closer inspection of the oculus. Climbing further still, we ascended onto an outside balcony enroute to the topmost area, a culmination of 276 steps. From here, we had awe-inspiring views of all of Paris, including notable landmarks, Notre Dame, the Eiffel Tower and the Sacre Coeur. Surprisingly, much time is given for everyone to enjoy and revel in the scenery before being escorted back down to the interior, where more time can be devoted to discovering all that the Pantheon has to offer.

Now that renovation of the Pantheon is complete, a visit is necessary for those who have never been, for history and architecture lovers and those obsessed with seeing the city in its entirety from a raised level. There are many ways to see the city from above, but the 360 degree view offered by the Pantheon is simply stunning. Take your time to enjoy the interior as well as the exterior, especially noting the exoteric construction. Combine your visit with the Luxembourg gardens and a stroll thru the Latin Quarter and this will surely fill a day in the City of Light.

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The Pantheon

http://www.pantheonparis.com/
Address: Latin Quarter, Place du Pantheon, Rue Soufflot, 75005 ParisMetro: Cardinal Lemoine
Hours: April 1 thru September 30, daily, 10:00-18:30, October 1 thru March 31, 10:00-18:00, closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.
Admission: 8.50€, general admission + 2€ for dome tour
Getting There: RER station-Luxembourg, Metro station-Cardinal Lemoine, Bus: 84, 89

Where Did Van Gogh?

Many times I have visited Montmartre in Paris. On this particular sojourn, wandering through the winding streets up and around the hill, I learned something interesting. Van Gogh not only lived in Paris…he lived right there in Montmartre.

Walking on Rue Lepic, eating my gelato and searching for the Passer Through Walls sculpture, I happened to notice a sign on a building with a bright blue door. The sign, written in French, stated “In this house, Vincent Van Gogh, lived with his brother Theo from 1886 to 1888.”

At the end of February 1886, Vincent Van Gogh could no longer pay his rent in Antwerp. Departing Belgium for Paris, he headed to the French capital, which was the center of the art world at the time, neglecting to inform his brother of his impending arrival. His brother, Theo, an art dealer, had little choice but to take him in, forcing them to share Theo’s small apartment at 25 Rue Victor Massé. A few months later, the brothers moved nearby to 54 Rue Lepic on the Butte Montmartre. Neighbors included Edgar Degas who lived at 50 Rue Lepic and Toulouse-Lautrec who lived around the corner.

Montmartre was a popular place for artists as it was relatively cheap and there were many “open studios” where artists could learn and work.

Van Gogh’s time spent in Paris was a very crucial part of his career. He abandoned the the dark Dutch and Belgian tones and adopted colorful, luminous hues as he experimented with new styles like Impressionism.

After two years, Van Gogh tired of the hustle and bustle of Paris, moved out of the apartment on Rue Lepic and headed for the southern part of the country. Arles, France was where he made his home and was what inspired him to paint in the way most people think of him today…sunflowers, starry nights, night cafes…

I wonder who lives at 54 Rue Lepic now?

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Van Gogh’s Apartment

Getting there: Take metro, line 12 (green) to Abbesses stop. Walk west on Rue de Abbesses until fork in the road. Take Rue Lepic (at fork) to the right. 54 Lepic is a short walk on the right.

The Passer Through Walls

For art lovers, one of the best places to be in the world is in Paris. The beauty of the city has inspired artists of every type for centuries.

Many people associate the area of Paris, Montmartre, with the artists who paint and display their works there, but I discovered another artist’s work in Montmartre that I certainly had to track down…the “ Passer Through Walls” or Le Passe-Muraille.

Situated in Place Marcel Aymé, just off of Rue Norvins, this statue is one of the most interesting that I have ever encountered, not only for its uniqueness, but for the story behind it. The bronze patina sculpture by Jean Marais is of a man that appears to be walking out from the wall in this small square. Marais, also an actor, created this sculpture in 1989 to pay tribute to Marcel Aymé, a popular French novelist, screenwriter and playwright, who created the character of Mr. Dutilleul, a ministry department clerk who discovers that he has the gift of walking through sold walls. After enduring the humiliation that his colleagues and superiors subject him to at work, Dutilleul uses his talent to avenge himself. Using and abusing his powers, one day they abandon him… just as he walks thru a wall, leaving half of his body trapped in the stone.

Marcel Aymé, buried in the nearby cemetery St. Vincent, spent most of his life in Rue Norvins and set many of his novels in Montmartre. His publication has inspired many cinematic adaptations, such as the French comedy farce film known as Mr. Peek-a-Boo, by Jean Boyer and the 1959 German film, The Man Who Walked Through the Wall, by Ladislao Vajda.

The statue emerging from the wall is very engaging and its left hand is shiny from all of the tourists who come to help the poor man. His head, right arm, left leg and left hand come forth from the wall. Legend has it that late at night many a passerby hear a muffled voice, which is believed to be Dutilleul, calling out from the wall and on some winter nights, the painter Gen Paul serenades the poor prisoner with a song on his guitar. Nearby on the wall, someone, (who’s maybe been to Amsterdam and visited the Bronze Breast?) has placed a breast and buttocks on the wall near Mr. Dutilleul. Who knows… maybe it’s to give the poor trapped man company.

Though off the beaten track, walking the winding streets through the lesser known parts of Montmartre, searching for Le Passe-Muraille, makes for a nice departure from the busy crowded areas such as Place du Tertre and the Sacre Coeur. Be on the lookout for Le Moulin de la Galette, a restaurant located about ½ a block away, located in a windmill. Even if you do not dine here, it’s certainly worth a short stop for a picture!

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Le Passer Muraille

Getting there: Take the metro, line 12 (green) to Abbesses station. It is a short walk to the north from there, located on the corner of Rue Norvins and Rue Girardons.

My Montmartre

One of the areas that I absolutely love in Paris, is Montmartre.

Standing at the foot of the 270 stairs which lead to the summit of the hill of Montmartre, the Sacre Coeur presiding at the top always takes my breath away. Much fun can be had browsing the many souvenir shops, stopping for crepes along the way and many a cocktail hour or dinner can be whiled away in the legions of restaurants and bars.

My favorite part of Montmartre, however, is Place du Tertre. One of the most visited areas in Paris, it is known for the artists painting and exhibiting their works as well as the area where artistic legends once lived and worked; Van Gogh, Picasso, Modigliano. There are many portraitists and caricaturists, however, there are also artists working in a variety of mediums, including pen and ink, oils and watercolors. Quite a few paintings purchased here grace my walls and a couple of crazy stories remain in my memory.

Years ago, while browsing the myriad of paintings in the square, I came across an artist selling watercolors depicting Parisian scenes. Not usually a fan of watercolors, these, however, caught my eye for the deep, bright hues and the modern feel. Despite the price, I decided that I absolutely loved them and had to have them. After much debate, I settled on two compositions. The artist accompanied me to pay for the purchase with my credit card, only I was shocked to hear that my credit card was declined! Knowing that there should not have been a problem with my card, I reluctantly pulled out another and completed the purchase.

After arriving home, I stealthily crept upstairs and stashed the duo in my art folder in the back of a closet until a time when I could frame and display them. Not wanting my husband to question me about how many euro I had spent, I planned to pop them out at a later date. At dinner that night, my husband casually asked, “So what did you buy for $275 in Paris this weekend?” Shocked into speechlessness, I could not fathom how my husband would have known that I bought anything much less the exact price! It seems, however, that my husband was doing some grocery shopping at Walmart at the exact same time that I was trying to complete my artistic purchase. When the attempt to put my purchase through occurred, his purchase at Walmart had just been completed. Our credit card’s trusty fraud department promptly called him to inquire about my purchase and informed him of the exact amount. So much for keeping my purchase a secret! The paintings, however, now secure the perfect spot on my living room wall and every time I glance at them I chuckle and think about how I was BUSTED!

On another trip, a few years later, I discovered some unique oil paintings of female characters that I knew would look amazing in my dining room. After purchasing and hauling them back in my suitcase, they have now graced my walls for many years.

When my middle son turned thirteen, we visited Paris for his birthday. While walking through Place du Tertre, we stopped to admire an artist’s work. Deciding to purchase a couple of the pieces, I was chatting with the gentleman and discovered that the paintings were actually his wife’s. Glancing to the right, as we spoke, the works there caught my eye and stunned me into total silence. They looked like the same type of paintings that hang on my dining room walls. “Ian”, I said, regaining my voice and gesturing toward the canvases, “Look at these. Where have you seen these before?” It took a few minutes, but then I saw his face light up when he realized what I was talking about. The artist was not quite comprehending what was going on, however, when we explained to him that three of his paintings hang in our home, he was thrilled to death!

The third and final memory that I have of Place du Tertre still makes Ian and I laugh to this day. After purchasing the “wife’s” paintings, we were walking around the square. This artist popped up in front of us, looking curiously at Ian. In a sing-song French-accented voice, he said, “I want to paint your baby face!” Ian thought it was extremely funny, however we politely declined. The artist proceeded to follow us around, exclaiming over and over again, “I want to paint your baby face!” Deciding that it was time to go, we left Montmartre to head over our next destination, the Arc de Triomphe. Later that evening, we decided to head back to Montmartre to have dinner. As we were walking on the cobblestone streets near the Sacre Coeur, a car turned the corner and began driving toward us. As the car passed us, we heard the same sing-song voice coming from the open window, “I want to paint your baby face!” Needless to say, the stalker painter had found us again!

Ooh la la! Would you not want to paint this “baby face”?

Although Place du Tertre has changed over the years, becoming more crowded with tourists, it is still a place that I love to check out for new pieces to adorn my home. A new painting followed by a crepe and Mass on the weekends…it’s all there in Montmartre.

One of the “wife’s” paintings that hang in my dining room.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Getting to Montmartre

Metro: Abbesses Station (line 12). Walk east on Rue Yvonne le Tac until Rue Tardieu. You will be at the very foot of Montmartre hill.
Metro: Anvers Station (line 2). From the metro station, walk along Rue Steinkerque towards the Sacre Coeur. You can climb the stairs or take the funicular to the top.
Metro: Blanche Station or Pigalle (line 2). Check out the Moulin Rouge as you exit the station and walk north on Rue Lepic (Blanche) or Rue Houdon (Pigalle).
Metro: Lamarck Caulaincourt Station (the other side of the Montmartre Hill) (line 12). A walk up the hill will take you near the Musee de Montmartre.
Bus: Le Montmartrobus makes stops throughout Montmartre. You can find the map on the RATP website: http://www.ratp.fr/informer/pdf/orienter/f_plan.php?loc=reseaux&nompdf=montmartrobus: