Religious Institutions – Page 16

The Finder of Lost Things and People

Venice is one of my favorite cities to visit. A stunning and fascinating place, I adore wandering the narrow alleyways, crossing the canals and viewing the beautiful Venetian architecture.

On this trip, I decided that as much as I love Venice, it was time to venture farther out and see what other nearby cities had to offer. A couple of years ago, I had done a little research on the city of Padova (Padua), which claims to be the oldest city in Italy. My knowledge of Padova was limited to knowing that St. Anthony, the patron saint of finding things or lost people, died in this historical city. I was also aware that Padova is the setting for most of the action in Shakespeare’s The Taming of the Shrew. After finding that Padova was only 14 minutes by train, I decided that the pilgrimage city was going to be my destination.

Departing from the Mestre train station, we arrived in Padova rather quickly since there are no stops in between the two cities. After disembarking, a quick stop at the Tourist Information Office, which is located in the train station, secured some maps and additional information.

Since the Basilica di Sant’Antonio is only open until 7:00 pm, we decided to head there first and then make our way through the city. In the interest of time, we opted to purchase tickets to ride the tram which would take us right to our destination. Outside of the station, to the right, there is a ticket machine and a ticket counter to purchase tram tickets. Our tickets were soon in hand and we headed across the street to the Stazione FS tram stop.
The tram ride was rather quick and we soon arrived at the Santo tram stop. A short walk to the corner, a left turn and we were gazing upon the Basilica at the end of the street!

Millions of pilgrims travel to Padova every year, to visit the Basilica di Sant’Antonio (St. Anthony). It is here that St. Anthony’s grave is preserved. St. Anthony, originally from Lisbon, was proclaimed a Doctor of the Church in 1946 and was the second-most quickly canonized saint in the Catholic Church, after Peter of Verona.

The Basilica, known locally as “Il Santo”, offers a commanding view from its square with its Romanesque, Byzantine and Gothic influences. Many tourists linger in the area as it is such a holy site and it is recognized as one of the eight international shrines by the Holy See. Although it is visited by millions of people each year, it is not the main cathedral of the city, that being the Cathedral-Basilica of St. Mary of Padua.

Construction of the Basilica began shortly after the death of St. Anthony, in approximately 1232. Its completion in 1310 was followed by several modifications to the structure at the end of the 14th and mid 15th centuries. St. Anthony, although currently buried in the Basilica, had previously been interred, according to his will, in the small church of Santa Maria Mater Domini. This small church was incorporated into the present basilica as the Cappella della Madonna Mora (Chapel of the Dark Madonna).

Although I had been warned that we should expect a line to enter the Basilica, we encountered none. The Basilica is extensive in size, and although there a large number of visitors, while traversing the interior, it did not feel extremely crowded. Signs are posted at the entrance and within the Basilica prohibiting photography and inappropriate dress.

The interior of the church is quite beautiful. Many funerary monuments of noteworthy artistic value are housed in the Basilica. Attention should be given to each of the side chapels and their contents. The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament (Cappella del Santissimo Sacramento) on the right aisle, houses the tomb of the famous condottiero Gattamelata and his son Giannantonio along with a bronze tabernacle designed by Girolamo Campagna.

Several important images of the Madonna can also be found throughout the Basilica. One of extreme importance is the Madonna Mora, a statue of the Madonna with the Christ Child by the French sculptor Rainaldino di Puy-l’Evéque, dating from 1396. The name Madonna Mora refers to her olive skin and black hair. Another noteworthy piece located in the high altar area is a bronze Madonna with Child along with six statues of Saints by Donatello.

At the rear of the Basilica, is the ornate baroque Treasury Chapel with its resplendent ceiling depicting hundreds of angels amidst the clouds. In this chapel are housed the relics of St. Anthony, including his tongue, which was discovered to be intact in 1263 when his coffin was opened so that his remains could be placed under the high altar in the Basilica. The body of St. Anthony, can be visited in the Chapel of Madonna Mora in the middle of the nave. Expect to stand in line to visit both chapels.

Another part of the Basilica worth visiting is the peaceful cloisters in the Basilica. The Cloister of the Novices, constructed in the 15th century, offers a superb view of the Basilica, the Magnolia Cloister, offers a splendid magnolia tree planted in the middle of the nineteenth century cloister, the General’s Cloister, in which the rooms of the Ministers General overlook and the Cloister of Blessed Luca Belludi, whose present form dates back to the late fifteenth century. Adjacent to the Magnolia Cloister is a gift shop which offers rosaries, medals and many other religious items. Near the entrance to the cloisters, within the church, sits a priest who will bless your items.

The Basilica is one in Italy that cannot be missed for its religious, historical and architectural significance. Easily reached by public transport, it should be made a priority when visiting the Venice area.

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The Basilica of St. Anthony

http://www.santantonio.org/en/basilica
Piazza del Santo, 35123 Padova PD
Hours: Weekdays, January 1-March 26, 0620-1845, March 27-October 29, 0620-1945, October 30-December 31, 0620-1845. Saturdays and Sundays, 0620-1945
Admission: no charge
Getting There: http://www.trenitalia.com/ From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00. From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
Getting There: Padova Tram-stop Santo http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf One ride, (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70, Carnet of 9 tickets for €10, Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00

The Münsters

After returning from our Üetliberg expedition, my son and I ventured out from the Hauptbahnhof into the city. Zurich, relatively quiet on a Sunday, was perfect for a walk along the River Limmat toward two of Zurich’s well-known churches.

First on our list was Zurich’s Fraumünster Church, (The Church of Our Lady) founded in 853 by Louis the German. Built on the remains of a former abbey for aristocratic women, it now belongs to the Evangelical Reformed Church of the Canton of Zurich and is one of the four main churches of Zurich, the other’s being Grossmünster, Prediger and St. Peter’s church.

Easily visible for its slender green peak and clock tower, the Fraumünster stands out along the River Limmat. While the interior is not as ornate as other churches throughout Europe, visitors flock to this world famous church to see the five large stained glass windows designed by Russian-born artist Marc Chagall.

Three of Chagall’s stained glass windows

Installed in 1970, in the choir of the abbey, each window has a dominant color and depicts a Christian story. The five works are, Prophets, showing Elijah’s ascent to heaven, Jacob, depicting his combat and dreams of heaven, Christ, displaying various scenes of Christ’s life, Zion, illustrating an angel trumpeting the end of the world and Law, with Moses looking down upon the suffering of his people. Also worth noting is the impressive stained glass in the North transept created in 1940 by Augusto Giacometti, nephew of the famous Swiss abstract artist, Alberto Giacometti. A sign near the entrance advises visitors that no pictures are allowed inside the church, however, a few were taken discreetly.

Just across the river, the 12th century Romanesque ex-cathedral, Grossmünster was next on our list. Located in the Grossmünsterplatz, its twin towers soar above the other buildings in this area of Zurich. The Grossmünster, much like the Fraumünster, is not very ornate and quite bare. No statues and paintings decorate its interior, only a few faded frescoes. The pulpit was added in 1851 and the organ in 1960.

AG Fraumunster — Stained glass by Augusto Giacometti

Not to be outdone by the Fraumünster, stained glass windows were commissioned by Augusto Giacometti and Sigmar Polke. Giacometti’s window depicting the Three Magi bearing gifts to the Virgin and child has reigned in the choir since 1933. In 2009, German artist, Sigmar Polke, crafted seven windows in the nave from thinly sliced agate. The brilliantly colored result was then expanded with five glass windows featuring Old Testament figures. The scapegoat, Isaac, the Son of Man, Elijah and David all move in the direction of the birth of Christ and thus toward the window created by Giacometti.

Fraumunster9 — Stained glass by Sigmar Polke

A trip down to the Grossmünster’s crypt is also recommended as it is the largest in Switzerland. Here, you can now see the 15th century stone statue of Charlemagne, whom legend tells us is the founder of the church. The statue once stood atop the south tower and is now replaced by a replica. As with the Fraumünster, photos were not allowed in the Grossmünster.

As a frequent church “tourist”, I must say that these two churches were nice to occupy a couple of hours on a Sunday, when there is not much else to do in downtown Zurich. Not bowled over by extraordinary beauty as I have experienced in other cities, they are mostly to be appreciated for their architectural prevalence. If you respect and value art, however, time should be taken to behold the artistry of the world famous stained glass in both churches.

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Fraumünster

http://www.fraumuenster.ch/en/
Fraumünster, Münsterhof 28001 Zürich
Hours: March 1 thru October 31, 1000-1800, November 1 thru February 29, 1000-1700. On Sundays and holidays, the church will open after services at 12 noon.
Admission: No charge
Getting there: 5 minute walk from Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)

Grossmünster

http://www.grossmuenster.ch/de/
Address: Grossmünsterplatz, 8001 Zürich
Hours: Daily except Sundays, March thru October, 1000-1800, November thru February, 1000-1700. Sundays, open after services.
Admission: No charge
Getting there: 5 minute walk from Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)

A Worshipful Walkabout

A few weeks ago, I was in the Dominican Republic on Easter Sunday, soaking up the sunshine on Bavaro Beach. Little did I realize that a little more than a month later, I would get to celebrate Easter again.

While checking the Acropolis museum website last week, I noticed a banner across the website opening page, Holy Week 2016 Opening Hours at the Acropolis Museum. “Oh, they must have not updated their web page this month”, I thought to myself.

Well, you are never too old to learn something new. The Greek Orthodox Church celebrates Easter later than the Catholic church. The Greek Orthodox Church uses the Julian calendar when calculating the date of Pascha (Easter), while the rest of Christianity uses the Gregorian calendar. There is a thirteen day difference between the two calendars with the Julian calendar being thirteen days behind the Gregorian. Additionally, the Orthodox Church maintains that Pascha must take place after the Jewish Passover in order to maintain the Biblical sequence of Christ’s Passion. Occasionally, the two do celebrate it on the same date (last time, 2011), however the dates of Easter for the Orthodox Church can be anywhere from one to five weeks later.

So, Easter was going to be celebrated on Sunday and all museums, archaeological sites and many shops would be closing early on Saturday? There goes my nap. Being that we would not be arriving until mid-morning, I realized that if I wanted to visit any museums or do any shopping, I would have to take a shower and hit the streets right away.

Having made the decision to visit Agia Dynamis, I decided to map out other churches in the area since it was a Holy Weekend. Visits to these would be accomplished on my way to and from the Kerameikos Ancient Cemetery. Some of my favorite things to see in other countries is their churches…what not a better weekend to see some of Athen’s finest, than on Easter weekend?

Agia Dynamis (Holy Power), a tiny church on the corner of Mitropoleos Street and Pentellis Street, is squeezed between two of the supporting pillars of the Ministry of Education and Religion building. The ministry has been party built around the church as it cannot be demolished due to its prominent history. During the Greek revolution this was the location, that the Greek ammunition master, Mastropavlis, made bullets for the Turkish and for Greek freedom fighters that were smuggled out during the night in garbage bags.

The church is very small and not very embellished. There were many Athenians visiting the church while I was on the premises, lighting candles and offering up prayers.

Walking up Mitropoleos Street, in the Platia Mitropoleos, I next arrived at the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and the adjacent and diminutive Agios Eleftherios church, also known as Mikri Mitropoli (little metropolitan church) or Panagia Georgoepikoos (meaning “All-saint Mary who answers quickly to prayers”).

The Agios Eleftherios church is a Byzantine-era construction from the 13th century ordered to be built by the bishop of Athens. With the expulsion of King Otho, in 1862, it received its current name, meaning “Freedom”.

The outside is constructed of marble with much artistic detail. It is extremely small inside, but beautiful in its simplistic character.

After my visit was complete, I moved onward to the Agios Eleftherios’ illustrious neighbor, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens, popularly known as the “Metropolis”.

Towering over the “little metropolitan church” and the square, the domed basilica has presided in its current location since 1842 when construction began on Christmas Day. Marble from 72 demolished churches was used to build the Cathedral’s colossal walls. After its completion 20 years later, the Cathedral was dedicated by the King and Queen to the Annunciation of the Mother of God. The cathedral, a major city landmark, is the site of official ceremonies and important wedding and funerals.

When entering the church, note the ancient marble, above the entrance, depicting a woman said to be Eileithyia, the goddess of childbirth. During the passage from mythology to Christianity, many temples were transformed into churches and leads one to believe that this particular church was probably built on the ruins of an ancient Greek temple dedicated to Eileithyia.

The interior is very ornate with rich color, distinctive iconography and a beautiful domed ceiling. The Cathedral houses the tombs of two saints, Saint Philothei and Patriarch Gregory V, both killed by the Ottoman Turks during the Ottoman period. The interior was roped off and the sanctuary could only be viewed from afar.

After exiting the Cathedral, I took a a moment to wander through the square taking note of the two statues which reside here; Saint Constantine XI the Ethnomartyr, the last Byzantine Emperor and Archbishop Damaskinos, the Archbishop of Athens during World War II, who was also Regent for King George II and Prime Minister of Greece in 1946.

Walking through the Plaka, I resumed my church tour arriving in Monastiraki Square. The square is named for the Church of Pantanassa (or Ekklisia Kimisi Theotokou Mitropoleos) which is also located here. This small church presides over the square and the crowds of tourists that congregate here for shopping, dining, sightseeing and utilization of the metro at the Monastiraki station.

This church was known as the Great Monastery as it was located on the site of a monastery that stood here many years ago. Later, it became monastiraki (little monastery) which eventually denominated the entire area. Deciding to forgo the interior of this small shrine, I admired it from outside and continued on my way.

My next destination was the Kerameikos Cemetery, Museum and Archaeological Site located near the end of Ermou Street. The cemetery, one of the lesser known archaeological sites in the city, is most certainly worth a visit while in the area.

After my visit to Kerameikos Cemetery, I headed back through Monastiraki Square and walked along the Ancient Agora admiring Hadrian’s Library and the Tower of the Winds.

My final destination was the Church of the Holy Trinity or Sotira Lykodimou, one of the largest medieval buildings in Athens. The Byzantine church was built a little before 1083 within the city’s defensive walls. In 1847, the Russian government purchased the property and Tsar Alexander II undertook the huge renovation of the building in 1850, when the impressive bell tower and side tribunes were added. Now commonly known as the Russian Church it is the parish church of the Russian Orthodox community in Athens.

Stepping into the church, the eye is drawn upward to the impressively festooned dome and the exquisite tall Russian iconostasis, which warranted further inspection, however, before I could take additional pictures, I was instructed that none were allowed.

A quick walk around the exterior and I finally decided that my church tour was complete and it was finally time for my nap.

Within the ancient winding city of Athens, there are many more churches that are worthy of inspection. Dating back to the 5th century and boasting impressive architecture, most are well-preserved and decorated with icons and rare-frescoes. While strolling around the city, everyone should take time to visit these historical houses of worship.

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Agia Dynamis

Corner of Mitropoleos and Pentelis Streets
Take metro to Syntagma square, cross the square to the start of Mitropoleos Street and walk west. The church will be on your left.Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and Agios Eleftherios Church
Metropolitan Square, Athens 105 56
Take metro to Syntagma square, cross the square to the start of Mitropoleos Street and walk west. The square and churches will be on your left.

Church of Pantanassa

Monastiraki Square, 10555 Athens
By Metro: 1 (Green Line), 3 (Blue Line), Station “Monastiraki”
By Bus: 025, 026, 027, 035, 200, 227, 500
By Foot: From Syntagma Square, follow Ermou Street all the way down until you meet up with Monastiraki Square

Church of the Holy Trinity

Corner of Filellinon Street and Souri
Take metro to Syntagma square. Head south on Amalias, take a right on Souri.

Grand Dom

As you walk through the heart of Mainz, you encounter an impressive collection of beautifully decorated buildings and sculptures in the Domplatz (or Marktplatz). Among these structures, the 1000 year old Roman Catholic cathedral still stands even after eighty percent of the city was destroyed during World War II.

St. Martin’s Cathedral (also known as the Mainzer Dom or The Dom), of which construction began in 975 AD, was continually rebuilt and restored, finally reaching its present configuration mainly in the 13th and 14th centuries. Predominantly Romanesque in style and modeled at St. Peter’s in Rome, it has survived seven fires and endured many exterior additions over many centuries that have resulted in the appearance of various architectural influences seen today.

The cathedral features a “High” altar and sanctuary at the East end dedicated to St. Stephen and a choir, presbytery and main altar for Mass at the West end. All pews face west. There is also a small double tiered Roman chapel, once the Bishop’s private chapel, on the southwest corner which is set aside for private prayer. The interior of the cathedral houses tombs and funerary monuments of former powerful electoral-prince-archbishops of the diocese and contains many ancient religious works of art.

Many of the supporting pillars along the aisles of the nave are decorated with carved and painted statues of German and French saints. Among the most impressive furnishings in the sanctuary are rococo choir stalls and an early 14th century pewter baptismal font. Because the interior of the cathedral was constructed from the local red sandstone, it can be a little dark, which may motivate the spiritually moved to light one of the many votive candles available for prayer intentions.

After exploring the interior of the cathedral, take a few minutes to experience the tranquility of the courtyard which contains statues of Saint Boniface and The Madonna. If time allows, visit the cathedral’s Diocesan Museum which houses a collection of religious art and exhibitions of reliquaries and medieval sculpture.

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St. Martin’s Cathedral (Mainz Cathedral)

http://www.mainz-dom.de/
Address: Markt 10, 55116 Mainz, Germany
Hours: March-October, Monday-Friday, 9:00-18:30, Saturday, 9:00-16:00, Sunday, 12:45-15:00 and 16:00-18:30. November-February, Monday-Friday, 9:00-17:00, Saturday, 9:00-15:30, Sunday, 12:45-15:00 and 16:00-17:00
Admission: free, donations accepted
Services: High Mass, Sundays, 10:00. Vesper service, 15:00. Additional masses on Sundays, 7:00, 8:00, 11:30. Weekdays, 6:25, 7:30, 8:15 and 16:45.

Diocesan Museum

Museum Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 9:00-17:00
Museum Admission: Adults, € 5,00, Children, € 3,50

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Cathedral of Lima

The Cathedral of Lima, dedicated to St. John the Apostle and Evangelist, presides on the eastern side of the Plaza de Armas and is truly a magnificent work of art, a far cry from its modest beginnings.

It has been told that in January 18, 1535, the Spanish conquistador and founder of Lima, Francisco Pizarro placed the first stone, taken from an Inca temple located on this site, and carried over his shoulders the first log used in the construction of the Cathedral.

Over the years, many earthquakes have necessitated the repairs and reconstruction of the Cathedral, most notably the earthquakes of 1746 and 1940. Still retaining its colonial structure and facade, it is important to note when entering the structure, the three large doorways, which are in keeping with the majority of cathedrals. The main or central doorway is called the Portada del Perdon or the “door of forgiveness”. Above the doorways is the Peruvian seal and the phrase “Plus Ultra” rather than Lima’s coat of arms.

Carved in stone and ornamented with exquisite details and decorations, the front of the cathedral is flanked by the two high towers with spires of slate which were added around 1800.

After entering the cathedral and paying the entry fee of 10 sols, you are free to wander throughout the cathedral and the Religious Art Museum which is housed within the cathedral. A guided tour may be taken or one can self-guide through the Cathedral using the pamphlet dispersed with the ticket.

Due to the reparations stemming from the earthquakes, the interior is a sight to behold displaying a mix of late Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassic elements. Beautiful vaulted ceilings, checkerboard flooring, a gold plated main altar and intricately carved choir stalls are most notable, however, taking the time to inspect each of the fourteen chapels is highly recommended. A map is handed out to each guest, with your paid admission, detailing the side chapels. One of the chapels, opens on to Calle de Judios (Street of the Jews) and another on to the Patio de los Naranjos (Square of the Orange Trees), which is connected to the Cathedral.

The first chapel in the left aisle, holds the ancient baptistery. Ancient pictures found recently in this chapel, have been restored and are on display for the public. This chapel is followed by the Capilla de la Sagrada Familia (Chapel of the Holy Family) featuring figures of Jesus, Mary and Joseph. I highly recommend spending a few minutes admiring each chapel’s unique qualities.

As you make your way to rear of the Cathedral, you will find your way to the Religious Art Museum within the old sacristy. The museum displays a large collection of historical objects including painting, sculptures, furniture, jewelry, sacred vessels and religious vestments and robes of former archbishops.

Also at the rear of the Cathedral is a large crypt. Many remains can be seen here, including a display of skulls in a glass-fronted niche. Another oddity, a glass case situated in the floor, contains about a dozen or so extremely small coffins.

The tomb of Francisco Pizarro also is housed within the Cathedral as you walk in on the right hand side. A most interesting story, the mummified remains of the conquistador were on display in a glass casket in the Cathedral of Lima for almost a century. The remains were visited by Catholic and Spanish pilgrims and studied by historians. Imagine the shock when in 1977, workers uncovered a casket engraved with the words, “Here is the skull of the Marquis Don Francisco Pizarro who discovered and won Peru and placed it under the crown of Castile.”

Another unique find within the Cathedral is a tea shop opened a couple of years ago. When visiting La Teteria, visitors can choose from a menu of teas and nutritious baked pastries and breads. While the tea shop is housed within the Cathedral, it can be visited independently by simply asking at the main doors of the church.

Although I found the San Francisco Church to be much more impressive and beautiful, I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Cathedral. For the history buff and the architecturally obsessed, it is a must-see on your trip to Lima.

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Cathedral of Lima

Address: Jirón Carabaya, Lima 15001, Peru
Admission: 10 sols (about $3) includes admission to cathedral and museum. Combination ticket of 30 sols (about $9) includes the Archbishops Palace and the Cathedral, including museum
Hours: Monday-Friday 9:00-17:00, Saturday, 10:00-13:00, Sunday, 13:00-17:00

Peruvian Past

One of the things I wanted most to experience while visiting the historic center of Lima was the San Francisco Church, one of the best preserved colonial churches in the city, which also houses a monastery, museum and catacombs.

Construction of the Spanish baroque-style church, which pays tribute to Saint Jude the Apostle, was begun in 1673, but was not completed until 1774. Having survived many earthquakes in its early years with little damage, a tremor in 1970 caused extensive destruction. The entire complex, consisting of the church, the monastery, museum and catacombs was listed in 1991 as part of the Historic Centre of Lima.

As your enter the gates and gaze upon the bright yellow facade of the church, you’ll be greeted by the swarms of pigeons in the courtyard as well as many vendors selling bags of seeds, which keeps the birds present, and other wares.

Having about thirty minutes before the next tour would begin for the catacombs and monastery, I decided to visit the church first. A very fascinating structure, I was most taken with the beautifully carved entrance and the colossal wooden doorway. Once inside, you cannot but be enthralled with the red and white intricately latticed dome, its ornately gilded side altars and the Spanish influence throughout. Most notable was the head altar which is fully carved out of wood.

After my visit was complete, a few steps out of the church through the courtyard brought me to the entrance of the Museum, Monastery and Catacombs. As tours begin on the hour, I only had a few minutes to wait before our guide greeted us and prepared us for our circuit. Her first instructions…something it seems that lately I have been hearing quite frequently…no photos! Ugh!

The first part of our visit brought us through the museum and monastery. A large collection of ancient religious texts, some brought over by the first wave of Spanish priests after the conquest of the Incas is exceptionally notable. While I was tempted to sneak a few pictures of the prominent library, filled with 25,000 texts, including the first Spanish dictionary and a Holy Bible from 1571, I noticed the surveillance cameras throughout the room as well as two workers intent on preserving ancient texts. As much as I would have loved to capture the beauty of this room, with my camera, it was not to be. Sadly, this amazing room would have to be remembered from a postcard purchased in the gift shop.

The monastery contains many religious works of art and you can also visit the choir stalls where you see the large choir songbooks displayed on floor stands. Before exiting the monastery, you will pass through a series of beautiful courtyards full of plants, walkways and private little nooks where the monks most assuredly passed their time meditating.

Before long, you are entering the maze of passageways which were actually part of Lima’s original cemeteries. An estimated 75,000 bodies are buried under San Francisco alone and many of the remains are exposed and stacked in strange patterns in circular stone pits. As you walk through the semicircular archways and vaulted ceilings, you can distinguish skulls, tibiae, femurs and fibulae of the bodies that were place here to decompose.

Many famous Peruvians from the colonial era were buried within the old church including the remains of Friar Juan Gomez, a 16th Century doctor and “miracle worker” who worked at the church hospital for 40 years. According to Franciscan chronicles, Friar Gomez saved the life of a man who fell off his horse by simply reciting three prayers for the man. The man, thought to be dead, rose to his feet and walked away as if he’d never fallen from the horse.

Having been through many catacombs in France and Italy, it was interesting to note the difference in how the bones were laid to rest and displayed. Since no surveillance cameras were noted, I was able to turn off my flash and snap a few photos of the macabre exhibit.

After the tour’s completion, we were allowed to make our way through the monastery and museum toward the exit. Again, a few photos were able to be taken quickly with no one noticing.

Thoroughly having enjoyed my visit to the San Francisco Church, Museum, Monastery and Catacombs, I highly recommend a visit to anyone in the historic city center of Lima. Take the time to absorb and appreciate each unique part of this significant landmark.

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Church, Museum and Catacombs of San Francisco

Address: Jirón Lampa y Ancash, Lima, Peru
Admission: Church, free admission
Admission: Museum and Catacombs, 10 sols (about $3)
Hours: Church, daily 7:00-11:00 and 16:00-20:00
Hours: Museum and Catacombs, daily 9:00-20:15

A Utrecht Stopover

After our visit to the opulent De Haar Castle, the return to Amsterdam was taking us back again through Utrecht. Seeing an opportunity to circumnavigate the ancient city center, albeit quickly, we decided to hop off of the train and make quick work of seeing a few landmarks.

Finally exiting the train station, after wandering aimlessly through the adjacent shopping center, a quick stop was made for soup and a sandwich. Realizing that the day was drawing to a close, I wanted to show my friend, Leianne, a few of the things that I had appreciated on a prior visit.

While at the castle, we had learned of the destruction that had been caused by a hurricane in 1674. The same storm had torn through the city and destroyed the nave of St. Martin’s Cathedral, or the Dom Church as it is more commonly known. The Church and the Dom Tower still stand separated by the non-existent nave, now the Domplein, a square with trees. Once the Netherlands’ largest church, dedicated to St. Martin of Tours, it was also the cathedral of the Diocese of Utrecht during the Middle Ages. The tower, the hallmark of the city, is the tallest church tower in the Netherlands. Standing at 367 feet high, it is on the spot where the city of Utrecht originated almost 2,000 years ago.

As we walked up the street toward these two magnificent structures we passed underneath the Dom Tower. Exiting on the church side, it was easy to imagine the hurricane force winds that caused the destruction many years ago. The wind was blowing so hard that we were almost unable to put one foot in front of the other.

Although we did not have time to do so on this day, climbing the Dom Tower can be a wonderful opportunity to see Utrecht from a higher vantage point. On a prior trip, I climbed the 465 steps to the top, stopping halfway to view the historic bells and the 17th century Hemony carillon.

Once we completed our visit of St. Martin’s Cathedral, we ducked into the Pandhof (courtyard) which is located between St. Martin’s Cathedral and the University Hall at Domplein. The Pandhof is a peaceful and picturesque monastery garden, where ornamental plants and herbs bloom. In the center of the garden is a fountain with a bronze statue of the 14th century priest Hugo Wstinc. One of the most beautiful enclosed gardens in Holland, it is worthy of a few minutes to step inside…and if you are lucky, there will be someone utilizing the magnificent acoustics and playing music for your enjoyment (or for a euro or two!)

Musician utilizing the acoustics at Pandhof

As the day ended, we walked around a bit more, just checking out the beautiful architecture and relaxed atmosphere that Utrecht has to offer, before making our return to Amsterdam. Having previously visited Utrecht, I know all that the city extends to visitors. Hopefully, despite the short time here, my friend gained some insight in to what a great place it is to spend time and she will return to inspect it further!

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Utrecht

Getting there: Amsterdam Central to Utrecht, approximately 25 minutes, 5-6 departures per hour, approximtely 17€ roundtrip

Dom Tower

http://www.domtoren.nl/en
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 10:00-17:00, Sunday and Monday, 12:00-17:00
Admission: Adults, 9€, Children (ages 4-12) 5€, Students/+65, 7,50€

St. Martin’s Cathedral

http://www.domkerk.nl/
Admission: Donations accepted
Daily, May-September 10:00-17:00, October-April 11:00-16:00, Saturday 10:00/11:00-15:30, Sunday 12:30-16:00

Many Things in Manchester

Oh man! It’s great to be back in Manchester after so long!

Many years ago, I visited Manchester, England quite often. My airline discontinued service after a while, and my only source of authentic fish and chips became London. But that was okay, as I absolutely love going to London! About a year ago, service was reestablished but I still had not made it back to this historic British city. Last weekend, with a four day trip on my schedule, I carefully packed my bags and prepared for two days to reacquaint myself with the food, the architecture and the history.

After taking a short nap, I ventured out into the drizzly afternoon. Knowing that I only had about two hours to wander around before dinner, I was determined to see as much as I could. A short walk led me past the rounded facade of the Central Library and to the Victorian Gothic style Town Hall located in Albert Square.

A number of monuments and statues are on display here, the largest of which is the Albert Memorial. The monument to Prince Albert, Prince consort of Queen Victoria, consists of a marble statue of Albert standing on a plinth, facing west and occupies the center of the square. Within the square are several other statues including, William Ewart Gladstone, John Bright, Bishop James Fraser and Oliver Heywood. A fountain, commemorating the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria and designed by Thomas Worthington, now stands in the square after having been returned in 1997 from storage.

The square was also decorated for the Chinese New Year celebrations taking place that weekend throughout the city. The city of Manchester prides itself in being one of the best places in Europe to celebrate the Chinese tradition with parades, street fairs, attractions and fireworks.

Leaving Albert Square and taking a right onto Princess Street, I headed toward the third largest Chinatown in Europe to gaze upon its magnificent Chinese Arch adorned with dragons and phoenixes. Many tourists were in this area as well as locals completing their shopping in the many markets and shops.

Wandering through Chinatown, I ended up on Cross Street and headed through Exchange Square on my route to the medieval Manchester Cathedral.

The cathedral, located on Victoria Street, is certainly worth a visit as it has the widest nave of any in England and the stained glass are all quite modern after being replaced after WWII. The architecture is worshipful and pipe organ will be the center of attention when the restoration is complete and it has been reinstalled. Presently, scaffolding is erected in the center of the cathedral which impedes one’s entire view and does not lend to the quiet of the atmosphere.

At the moment, Julian Stair’s exhibition, Quietus Revisited: The Vessel, Death and the Human Body, is on display in this religious setting. Life-sized artist made funerary jars and sarcophagi, exploring the symbolic language of ceramic vessels and the role they have played in rituals surrounding death and bereavement can be seen throughout the cathedral.

Once I departed the cathedral, fighting the now steady rain and increasing wind, I managed to wander the streets of Manchester while taking in the beauty of the architecture in the city. Truly, this is a place where one should not walk with head bowed. Take the time to visit it’s landmarks but also to look upwards and outwards at what this city has to offer. Some of the buildings are truly breathtaking. There was much more to see, however, with conditions steadily deteriorating, it was time to call it a day and put off until another, the rest of Manchester’s treasures.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram @SnappingtheGlobe.

Town Hall

http://www.manchester.gov.uk/townhall/
Town, Hall, Albert Square, Manchester, Lancashire M60 2LA, United
Open Monday-Saturday. Please note, some rooms are not always available for viewing if an event is taking place.

Manchester Cathedral

http://www.manchestercathedral.org/
Admission: free
Open 7 days a week

Where Are You Going?

While visiting the catacombs on the Appian Way, it is worth taking a few minutes to step into the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante (Church of St. Mary in Palmis), otherwise known as Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis.

Having heard of this church, I wasn’t aware of it’s location near the catacombs. After our visit to San Callixtus, our tour guide recommended the short walk to visit this holy site. Located about 800 meters from the St. Sebasian Gate, Quo Vadis is a small baroque-style church built on the site, according to the bible, in which St. Peter met Jesus while St. Peter was fleeing persecution in Rome. Peter asked Jesus, “Lord, where are you going?” (Latin: Domine, quo vadis?) Jesus answered, “I am going to Rome to be crucified again”.

A marble slab is on display at the center of the church. A copy of the original, which is kept in the nearby Basilica of San Sebastiano fuori le mura, the slab contains the imprint of what is believed to be Jesus’ feet. Considered to be a miraculous sign, the footprints are what gave the church its name…palmis refers to the soles of the feet.

Prior to 1845, there was an inscription above the front door on the church’s façade which said, “Stop your walking traveler and enter this sacred temple in which you will find the footprint of our Lord Jesus Christ when He met with St. Peter who escaped from the prison. An alms for the wax and the oil is recommended in order to free some spirits from Purgatory”. Pope Gregory XVI found the advertising tone of the inscription very inappropriate and ordered its removal.

In this small church, you will also see a bust of Henryk Sienkiewicz, the Polish author of the famous historical fiction novel Quo Vadis: A Narrative of the Time of Nero which was published in 1886. It is said that Sienkiewicz was inspired to write his novel while sitting in this church.

In 1983, Pope John Paul II defined the chapel as “a place that has a special importance in the history of Rome and in the history of the church”.

After your visit to Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante it is an easy return to Rome. Step outside of the church; the bus stop (#118 and #218) to Rome is located immediately to the right.

For more pictures check out my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @SnappingtheGlobe.

Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante

casmadrid@tiscalinet.it
Via Appia Antica, 51, Rome Italy
Hours: 0800-1800, daily. Summer closing time 1900.
Masses: Winter weekdays, 1800, summer weekdays 1900, holidays, 0900, 1100, 1800 (winter), 1900 (summer)

Transportation

Bus #118 from Circus Maximus or Piazza Venezia
Bus #218 from Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano

A Holy Ascent

A couple of years ago, I mapped out a number of churches in Rome that I was interested in visiting. Starting with Archbasilica of St. John Lateran, I had planned to work my way through the area and visit Basilica San Clemente al Laterano, Basilica de Santa Maria Maggiore and Santa Maria della Vittoria plus any other smaller ones that I ran across on my journey.

After leaving the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran, I noticed a large number of people exiting the building across the street. The exterior of the building had initially caught my attention, now I was intrigued. Where were they coming from?

Always ready to find something new and interesting, I made my way across the street, climbing the steps and stealthily entering the building, not sure what I would encounter.

An information desk was on the right, as I entered, and a large number of people were standing in the vestibule. Unsure of the kind of establishment I had found myself in, I noticed the people moving toward a stairway on the right side of the building. As I glanced upward, I noticed that there were people on the stairway not moving…not only were they not moving, they were kneeling. Every so often, as I watched, a few of the kneeling visitors moved up a stair, everyone behind adjusting their positions.

Confused as I was, I was also captivated, wondering what would motivate someone to climb stairs on their knees. Where was this painful ascent taking them?

Finally, I located a plaque on the wall detailing the history of the stairs.

Scala Sancta, or The Holy Stairs, is a set of 28 white marble steps located in a building that incorporates part of the old Lateran Palace. The stairs lead to the Sancta Sanctorum, the personal chapel of the early popes.

The history of Catholicism tells us that the stairs, brought to Rome in the fourth century by St. Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, were the steps leading up to the Jerusalem palace of Pontius Pilate, on which Jesus Christ stepped on his way to trial during the events known as the Passion.

The steps are now encased in protective wood and may only be ascended on the knees, a prayer to be said on each step. On November 13, 1893, Pope Leo XII granted that the faithful who ascended the steps of the Scala Sancta on their knees, with a contrite heart, praying and meditating on Our Lord’s Passion, may gain an indulgence of three hundred days for each step. This indulgence is applicable towards the souls in Purgatory.

Having such a big itinerary for the day, I reluctantly decided to wait until another to make the climb, but my curiosity was now piqued.

After that visit, I spoke with a friend who had visited the Scala Sancta on a trip with her son who is in Seminary College studying to be a Catholic priest. She related the story of what she experienced while climbing the stairs.

“We climbed these steps, on our knees, while praying. There is a section where you can touch and feel the actual marble. Not every step, but on some steps, as I prayed, I felt compelled to slide my hand inside the opening to feel the actual marble Jesus walked on. Each time I did it, I was overwhelmed and was literally taken back to that moment. I saw Jesus walking those steps and the pain I felt was unimaginable. I cried uncontrollable each time I had my hand on that marble. At one point, I moved to the next step and when I put my right knee down, I felt the most excruciating pain on my right calf. I really thought something had pierced my leg. I lifted it up to feel and nothing was there but the pain was still there, unbearable. As I knelt there, the only thing I could think was that was the pain Jesus felt as the nails went through his hands and feet. When I moved to the next step, the pain was gone completely. As I touched the marble again a few steps later, I had the same feeling, as if I was there, watching Jesus being condemned to death. I watched it through a mother’s eyes. I watched it through Mary’s eyes. When we were done, I was so completely mentally and physically drained but SO moved that I was allowed to experience this. It will stay with me forever!”-Lisa Killeen, Lafayette, La

A couple of weeks ago, while making our way to the catacombs, we found ourselves with a bit of extra time on our hands after learning that they would be closed for lunch during the early part of the afternoon. Discovering that my companion had never heard of the Scala Sancta, I decided that we should make a detour.

Exiting the metro station of San Giovanni and walking through the original fortified gateway along the present day Porta San Giovanni, we were mesmerized by the well preserved Roman Aurelian Wall.

Gazing at the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran, we strolled along the street between the church and the building housing the Scala Sancta.

Entering, we walked up to the foot of the stairs and watched in awe, the masses of pilgrims climbing the stairs on their knees. Sadly, because of the large number of people and being that it was near the lunch closing time of 1:00 pm, my kneeling ascent would, again, have to wait. Instead, we opted to climb the adjacent stairway.

At the top of the Holy Stairs, we visited the chapel where some of the best early Christian relics were kept in the crypt under the altar at one time, including the heads of saints Peter, Paul and young Agnes. Most of these have now been distributed to other churches around the city, but displayed in a glass case on the left wall is a fragment of the table on which the Last Supper was supposedly served. The exquisite 13^th century frescoes in the lunettes and on the ceiling are the real attractions and worth further inspection.

Finally, our visit had come to an end. Having been able to see the Sancta Sanctorum was an accomplishment, for me, on this visit; however, I once again, left without making my Holy ascent. It was a huge disappointment but a task that will most definitely will be put on my agenda for a future trip to the Holy City.

Check out more pictures on Facebook and Instagram, Snapping the Globe.

Scala Santa

http://www.scala-santa.it
Address: Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 14
Metro: San Giovanni
Admission-Scala, free
Admission-Sancta Sanctorum, €3,50
Opening Hours: Scala, 0600-1300 & 1500-1900 summer, to 1830 winter
Opening Hours: Sancta Sanctorum, 0930-1240 & 1500-1700 Monday-Saturday