weimere@aol.com – Page 57 – Snapping The Globe

Baroque and Beautiful

“I am a sucker for a beautiful church.”

Anyone who has read through my blog, knows this statement to be entirely true. Actually, I love all religious institutions, for their differences in ornamentation, their unique history and for the many beliefs and people that they represent. I love basilicas, chapels, cathedrals, synagogues, temples, mosques and pagodas. When I see a church, I want to see the interior…what makes it different from others that I have visited? Does it have a saint interred there? Relics on display? Beautiful stained glass? Paintings by a famed artist? Maybe this has a lot to do with the fact that I studied architecture in college…or maybe it has to do with my love of photography and all of the beautiful photographic opportunities each building offers…maybe it has to do with the fact that entry into most institutions is free and therefore, easy on the touristy pocketbook!

The Church of St. Nicholas, the most famous Baroque church in Prague, is located in the center of the Lesser Town Square. Not to be confused with the other two St. Nicholas churches in Prague, one of which is located in Old Town Square, it is a most prominent and distinctive landmark with it’s green dome is visible from all over the city. I have walked by it countless times, but usually in transit to another destination with no extra time to stop and visit.

Upon entering the Church of St. Nicholas, we found that this particular institution does charge an admission fee for entry, unlike many others, however, at a cost of 70 CZK (about $3.00 U.S.) it’s not an extremely hefty one. Still, I do not agree with paying to see the inside of a church that has an active congregation. Paying a few dollars to see the inside of a well renowned landmark will not kill me, but hey, free is free!

After stepping away from the ticket counter and preparing my camera, we began making our way into the church. I think I held my breath a little in anticipation of what we would find as we stepped inside. And there it was! Worth the 70 CZK admission? You bet!

The construction of the Church of St. Nicholas began in 1703, lasted approximately one hundred years and employed three generations of great Baroque architects…father, son and son-in-law…Kryštof Dientzenhofer, Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer and Anselmo Lurago. It was used by the Russian orthodox congregation from 1870-1914, used as a warehouse and housed a garrison at one time.

When entering, your eyes venture upward toward the ceiling and the 70 meter high dome which is decorated with a magnificent fresco of the Celebration of the Holy Trinity by Franz Palko. Other frescos by Jan Lukas Kracker are also worth closer inspection. After heading upstairs, you have a closer view of the grand ceiling fresco and the nave from the viewing gallery that runs along the left side of the church.

The interior is richly decorated with sculptures by František Ignác Platzer, many paintings and the side chapels abundantly adorned in gold.

The main organ, with a beautiful fresco of St. Cecilia, patron saint of music, above it, was built from 1745-1747. It has over 4,000 pipes up to six meters in length and was most famously played by Mozart during his stay in Prague in 1787.

The belfry was the last part of St. Nicholas to be built and was constructed by Anselmo Lurago from 1751-1756, though designed by his father in law. As high as the church’s adjacent dome, it does not actually belong to the church but rather the Lesser Town. Interestingly, the tower was used during the 1960’s by the state police to spy on the western countries embassies nearby. This I learned, was something interesting to see, despite the additional climb, but it wasn’t until after our visit that we learned that it was included in our admission. (Nor did we ever see the entrance) Reading up on the church’s history after our trip, I discovered that visitors are allowed to ascend the tower’s 215 steps, during the day, to experience the splendid views over Malá Strana and across the Vltava River to the Old Town.

The Church of St. Nicholas is not to be missed in Prague, the Czech Republic or even Europe. One to rival anything that I have visited previously, it is worth the price of admission..maybe even a bit more. Allow plenty of time to explore the church in it’s entirety…just don’t miss the tower! I’ve already put aside my 70 CZK so that I can stop in and check it out on my next visit!

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St. Nicholas Church

http://www.stnicholas.cz/
Address: St. Nicholas Church Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town, Prague 1, Czech Republic
Hours: March-October, 0900-1700, daily, November-February, 0900-1600, daily
Admission: Adults, 70 CZK, Students (10-26 years), 50 CZK, Children (under 10), free
How To Get There: Tram stop, Malostranske namesti (trams 12, 20, 22)

The Stone Bridge

Many cities, throughout the world, have have major architectural structures that they are associated with.

Rome? The Coliseum.

Paris? The Eiffel Tower.

Rio De Janeiro? The Christ Statue.

Prague? The Charles Bridge.

The iconic bridge that crosses the Vltava River, linking the Lesser Quarter and the Old Town, is known worldwide and considered to be one of the most astonishing civil gothic-style structures ever built. It is so well known that while on your whirlwind tour of Europe and buying the Coliseum charm for your Pandora bracelet, you can pick up a Charles Bridge charm as well.

At some point during a trip to Prague, most tourists will seek out the bridge as a means to travel across the river, but most will seek it out for it’s beautiful views of the river and the picturesque buildings that line its banks and for the beauty of the ancient bridge itself. It is an absolute must-see on anyone’s visit to this alluring city.

Built to replace Judith’s bridge which was destroyed by the Great Flood of 1342, construction began in 1357 under the Czech king and Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI. Charles IV laid the first stone of the bridge and construction continued for many years under the supervision of Petr Parléř, who was also working on St. Vitus Cathedral. The bridge, however, was not to be completed during Charles’ lifetime, but was at a near enough completion point to accommodate the king’s funeral procession in its crossing of the Vltava River. Such a solid construction, it has survived many floods and other calamities…legend has it that eggs were mixed into the mortar used in its construction. Maybe there is some truth to this matter, as it still stands strong and proud to this day.

Originally called the Stone Bridge or the Prague Bridge, the Gothic structure only became known as the Charles Bridge (or Karlův Most) in 1870. It is protected by two bridge towers…on the Lesser Quarter side, Malostranská věž and on the Old Town side, Staroměstská věž. Both towers can be climbed for an extraordinary view of the city and the bridge from above.

As you walk along the bridge, it is hard to believe that it was once open to car and tram traffic. Hoards of tourists stroll across its expanse every day, stopping to examine the statues of saints and patron saints that line the balustrade with the most popular being St. John of Nepomuk. The Czech martyr saint was executed during the reign of Wenceslas IV by being thrown into the river from the bridge. It is easy to find this statue from the plaque that has been polished to a shine by the countless people that line up to touch it for good luck every day. Most of the statues today are copies with the originals being found in the Lapidarium, part of the National Museum.

The bridge is also a popular area for Czech musicians and artists and souvenir vendors to display their wares. It is a great place to be entertained and to purchase unique finds. As I walked along the bridge most recently, I watched both a flutist and an accordionist perform and browsed numerous stands selling jewelry, photographs and artwork. It is a place that I come specifically when searching for paintings, as their are many types and styles available.

While everyone should make their way to the Charles Bridge when staying in Prague, do not expect your stroll to be a stress-free one. Thousands of tourists stroll and linger on the bridge hourly. You will find yourself dodging selfie-sticks and tour groups following their flag-wielding tour leader as they make their way from Old Town to the Lesser Town. A great time of the day to enjoy this bridge is at sunset so as to enjoy the Prague Castle against the evening sky. But…if you wish to have it almost all to yourself…go at night or the very early morning.

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The Charles Bridge (Karlův Most)

http://www.prague.eu/cs/objekt/mista/93/karluv-most
Address: Charles Bridge, 110 00 Prague 1
Hours: Open continually
Admission: free
Getting there: Metro, A station Staroměstská, Tram, 6, 9, 17, 18, 22, station Národní divadlo, Bus, 294 station Mariánské náměstí

Old Town Bridge Tower (Staroměstská věž)

http://en.muzeumprahy.cz/201-the-old-town-bridge-tower/
Address: parc. č. 148, 110 00 Prague 1 – Old Town
Hours: November–February, 1000-1800, March, 1000-2000, April–September, 1000-2200, October, 1000-2000, daily
Admission: General, 90 CZK, Reduced 65 CZK, Family 250 CZK
Getting there: Metro, A station Staroměstská, Tram, 6, 9, 17, 18, 22, station Národní divadlo, Bus, 294 station Mariánské náměstí

The Lesser Town Bridge Tower (Malostranská věž)

http://en.muzeumprahy.cz/202-the-lesser-town-bridge-tower/
Address: čp. 57, 110 00 Prague 1 – Lesser Town
Hours: November–February, 1000-1800, March, 1000-2000, April–September, 1000-2200, October, 1000-2000, daily
Admission: General, 90 CZK, Reduced 65 CZK, Family 250 CZK
Getting There: Metro, A station Malostranská, Tram, 12, 20, 22 station, Malostranské náměstí

LIST OF STATUES ON CHARLES BRIDGE

Statues on the south side of the bridge

Statue of St. Ivo
Statues of saints Barbara, margaret and Elizabeth
Statue of the Lamentation of Christ
Statue of St. Joseph
Statue of St. Francis Xavier
Statue of St. Christopher
Statue of St. Farncis Borgia
Statue of St. Ludmila
Statue of St. Francis of Assisi
Statue of Saints Vincent Ferrer and Procopius +Bruncvik column
Statue of St. Nicholas of Tolentino
Statue of St. Luthgard (Dream of St. Luthgard)
Statue of St. Adalbert
Statues of Saints John of Matha, Felix of Valois and Ivan
Statue of St. Wenceslas

Statues on the north side of the bridge

Statue of the Madonna attending to St. Bernard
Statue of the Madonna, Saints Dominic and Thomas Aquinas
The Crucifix and Calvary
Statue of St. Anne
Statue of St. Cyril and St. Methodius
Statue of St. John the Baptist
Statue of Saints Norbert of Xanten, Wenceslas and Sigismund
Statue of St. John of Nepomuk
Statue of St. Anthony of Padua
Statue of St. Jude Thaddeus
Statue of St. Augustine
Statue of St. Cajetan
Statue of St. Philip Benitius
Statuary of St. Vitus
Statue of the Holy Savior with Cosmas and Damian

Czech-ing Out the Sights

Walking through the city of Prague, it is easy to be dumbfounded by its beauty. I have always been almost breathless looking out over the red rooftops and the amazing architecture at every corner, not knowing quite where to point my camera first.

There are many things to see and do while touring the city. During my visit with my son, I was anxious to show him some of the quaint attractions that I have grown to love in the city.

Exiting the Prague Castle’s main entrance, we walked through the Castle District (Hradcany) down to the west side of the Charles Bridge. The first thing on our agenda was the John Lennon Wall.

Once a regular wall, young Czechs decided to make it their slate for recording grievances during the communist regime of Gustáv Husák. Eventually, this led to a clash between hundreds of students and police on the nearby Charles Bridge. The movement these students followed was described ironically as “Lennonism”.

John Lennon, a hero to the youth, produced songs that praised freedom that did not exist in the communistic country. Western pop songs were banned by Communist authorities and some musicians were jailed for playing them. When Lennon was murdered in 1980, his picture was painted on the wall with graffiti defying the authorities. The threat of prison didn’t stop people from sneaking to the location during the dark of night to inscribe graffiti in the form of Beatles lyrics and odes to Lennon. Eventually, they returned to write their own feelings and dreams on the wall.

The original portrait of Lennon remains, but buried under many layers of new paint. At one time, the wall was repainted by authorities, but after a day passed, it was full of poems and flowers. On November 17, 2014, on the 25th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution, the wall was painted over completely with white paint by a group of art students, leaving only the text, “wall is over” a play on Lennon’s song, “War is Over”. Today, the wall, owned by the Knights of Malta, changes constantly. On the day that we were there, people were selling paint and paintbrushes. Many young tourists were busy decorating portions of the wall between the dozens of other tourists posing for pictures.

After a couple of quick pics, we moved on. Our next quick stop was at the Kampa waterwheel near the Lennon Wall. Always a favorite of mine, I love to stop here and watch the wheel turn in the Certovka river across from a small restaurant, Velkoprevorsky Mlyn. The restaurant has always been a source of fascination for me with its romantic small balcony hanging out over the river and two small tables. On impulse, I ran into the restaurant and made a reservation for the following night for my son and I, something I have always desired to do.

We were now getting a bit hungry…it was time for a snack…Trdelník. The sweet pastry, made from rolled dough, wrapped around a stick and grilled, then topped with sugar and walnut mix, is something anyone visiting Prague should have…at least once! There is a great little place on the end of the right side of the Charles Bridge in the Lesser Town. You can watch the skilled craftsmen roll the dough, wrap it around the round metal forms and bake it on the rotating rollers.

While devouring our Trdelnik, we ducked under the bridge and inspected the many “locks of love” that hang from the gates that line the canal. These locks are padlocks which couples secure to a public object, most often a bridge, to symbolize their love. Once the lock is fastened, the key is thrown away into the body of water to symbolize their unbreakable love. Though not as plentiful as what can be found on the Pont des Arts Bridge in Paris, there are many here and it has become quite a problem, as in other cities, as it damages the structure to which it is fastened.

As we continued our journey through the city, we stopped every so often to admire the many street performers that secure prime spots on street corners and in the Old Town Square. While everyone loves a good musician, there were some interesting acts that were quite mesmerizing. I have to admit, it took me a while to understand the floating man!

Later that evening, we headed toward one of my favorite spots to have a drink…the rooftop terrace at the U Prince hotel. When you enter the U Prince hotel, inform the hostess that you would like to go up to the terrace and she will direct you to the elevator. After exiting the elevator, a few more steps will lead you to another hostess who will seat you at the Terasa U Prince. Expect higher prices than other eateries or bars, but it is most definitely a trade off for the beautiful view of Old Town!

Finally, to cap off the evening, we grabbed some gelato right outside of the U Prince and decided to watch the Astronomical Clock put on its hourly show one more time! A great way to end a busy but wonderful day!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Lennon Wall

Address: Velkopřevorské náměstí, 100 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
Admission: Free
Hours: Open continually
How to Get There: From metro station Malostranska (green line A) take trams no. 12, 20, 22, 23. The nearest tram stops to Velkoprevorske namesti are either Malostranske namesti or Hellichova.

Velkoprevorsky Mlyn Restaurant

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Velkop%C5%99evorsk%C3%BD-Ml%C3%BDn/143838909015104
Address: Hroznová 489/3, 118 00 Praha, Czech Republic

Terasa U Prince

https://www.terasauprince.com/terrace
Address: Terasa U Prince, Staroměstské náměstí 29, Praha 1, 110 00, Czech Republic
Hours: 1100-2330, daily
How To Get There: Old Town, walking from center of square, past the Astrological Clock (on right) towards the river, the Hotel U Prince is on the left.

Astronomical Clock

http://www.staromestskaradnicepraha.cz/en/astronomical-clock/
Address: Staroměstské nám. 1, 110 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
Hours: Visit the Tower, Monday, 1100-2200, Tuesday-Sunday, 0900-2200
Admission: Tower, Adults, 130 CZK, Children, ages 6-15, Students under 26, Senior over 65, 80 CZK, Children, ages 4-6, 30 CZK, Family admission (2 adults, 4 children, up to age 15), 280 CZK
How To Get There: Old Town center

The Castle on the Hill

When someone finds themselves in Prague for the very first time, no doubt, they will be drawn to the Prague Castle. A showpiece of the city, it is perched above the Lesser Town (Mala Strana) in the Castle District and keeps a watchful eye on the activities of the city.

One of the largest castle complexes in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site, it was founded in the 9th century by Prince Bořivoj of the Premyslid Dynasty. Consisting of numerous palaces and ecclesiastical buildings of various architectural styles, the castle is the official residence of the President of the Czech Republic. Once a seat of power for kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman emperors and presidents of Czechoslovakia, it is one of the primary tourist attractions of the city.

Up early and heading on the subway towards the Castle, we were excited for all that there was to experience in the complex. On previous visits, I had been on the Castle grounds but had never visited any of the major buildings. Exiting the Malostranska metro station, we decided to make the long steady climb to the castle rather than connect to the tram so that we could experience the beautiful views of the city along the way as well as encounter the Karel Hasler statue and the usual accompanying guitarist.

Once inside the complex, finding where to purchase tickets was a bit perplexing. Entering the Old Royal Palace, I finally discovered a ticket window. Many different attraction combinations are offered and we decided on Option B, the most popular option (according to the ticket seller) which included the Royal Palace and Vladislav Hall, St. Vitus Cathedral, Basilica of St. George and Golden Lane. After our tickets were purchased and we were waiting to enter Vladislav Hall within the palace, I noticed that now familiar sign…the one with the camera and a slash through it. Oh no! Not again! However, after reading a little further, I found that pictures were allowed with a permit that could also be purchased at the ticket window.

Entering Vladislav Hall, we were impressed with the size of the structure as well as the arch-ribbed vaulting of the ceiling, the large Italian Renaissance windows and the five bronze 16th century Renaissance chandeliers. Originally designed to serve as a throne hall, it was the largest hall in medieval Prague and one of the largest halls in Central Europe. Built in the Late Gothic Style with some Early Renaissance features, the exact dates of construction are not clear. Used for banquets, councils, coronations and indoor jousting tournaments, one of the most notable features is the Rider’s Staircase on the northern side which was designed to receive a knight on horseback.

One of the oldest parts of the Prague Castle, the Old Royal Palace dates back to 1135. Moving from Vladislav Hall in the southwestern corner into the former offices of the Bohemian Chancellery, you find the room where Protestant nobles, rebelling against the Bohemian estates and the emperor, threw two of the emperor’s counselors and their secretary out of the window, which sparked the Thirty Years’ War.

At the eastern end of the hall, steps lead up to a balcony that overlooks All Saints’ Chapel. Another doorway, leads to the Assembly Hall, which contains replicas of the Bohemian crown jewels. A spiral staircase leads to the New Land Rolls Room, the repository for land titles, where the walls are covered with the clerks’ coats of arms.

A couple of the most interesting stories about the castle pertain to the procurement of the castle by Nazi Germany in 1939. When President Emil Hacha was forced to hand the Czech nation over to the Germans, Adolf Hitler spent a night in the castle gloating over his new acquisition. During the Nazi occupation in World War II, the castle became the headquarters of Reinhard Heydrich, the “Reich Protector of Bohemia and Moravia”. Placing the Bohemian crown on his own head, he was doomed according to legend, which states that if a despot places the crown on his head, he is doomed to die within a year. Less than a year after assuming power, he was attacked by British-trained Slovak and Czech soldiers while on his way to the castle and died of his wounds.

The Old Royal Palace was very interesting and filled with history. The old saying, “If the walls could talk”, is definitely true here as many historical events have taken place on the premises.

Moving on from the Old Royal Palace, we decided to backtrack from the Palace towards our original entry point, to Golden Lane, the 15th century, old world street within the complex. Originally known as Goldsmith’s Lane for the many goldsmiths that resided there, it was created when a new outer wall was added to the existing complex.

Once when visiting the castle grounds, I was able to quickly walk through Golden Lane at the end of the day when the grounds were closing, but unable to catch more than a glimpse of the old world buildings. This time, we were able to visit each of the eleven historic houses that contain period scenes that depict the life of the artisans who worked and lived in the structures.

In the upper level of the houses, a medieval armory is showcased with a multitude of suits of armor and weapons. Cannons are also displayed in the courtyard at the entry area of the lane.

After our visit to Golden Lane was complete and we headed back toward the center of the complex, we decided to duck into St. George’s Basilica, while there was no line. The oldest surviving church building within the complex and the second oldest in Prague, the basilica was founded by Vratislaus I of Bohemia in 920. Rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in 1142, the present facade, with its twin white towers than can been seen throughout the city, was added between the years of 1671 and 1691. The basilica holds the tomb of saint Ludmila of Bohemia as well as shrines of Vratislav and Boleslaus II of Bohemia. It also serves as a concert hall.

Our next and final visit was to the imposing Gothic structure of St. Vitus’ Cathedral. To many people, the Prague Castle is St. Vitus Cathedral as it is what dominates the skyline. Known primarily as St. Vitus Cathedral, it is also dedicated to Saints Wenceslas and Adalbert.

The largest and most important church in the country, St. Vitus was founded on November 21, 1344. Taking almost six centuries to complete, it was damaged by a great fire in 1541 and its final phase of construction took place between 1873 and 1929.

The line to enter St. Vitus was extremely long and was hampered by the security measures employed at the entrance. After an hour’s wait, we were finally able enter the cathedral.

As we walked throughout the interior, we stood among the massive pillars supporting the magnificent vaulted ceiling and were impressed by the side chapels and the beautiful stained glass windows, most notably one designed by Mucha, installed in the north nave in 1931. The window, portrays St. Wenceslas, as a boy, with his grandmother, St. Ludmila, surrounded by episodes from the lives of Saints Cyril and Methodius who spread Christianity among the Slavs. The image of Slavia is also included below Christ.

The extraordinary cathedral has overseen the coronation of Czech kings and queens and contains the tombs of many Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors. In the chancel of the cathedral, in front of the high alter, is the royal mausoleum. Below this, the royal crypt accommodates the royal tombs. Czech kings and queens, archbishops and patron saints of the country are interred here, most importantly, St. John of Nepomuk and King Charles IV.

The most exceptional part of the cathedral is St. Wenceslas Chapel, built between 1344 and 1364 and is where the relics of the saint are kept. The lower part of the walls are decorated with over 1300 semi-precious stones and frescoes of the Passion of Christ. The upper walls’ paintings depict the life of St. Wenceslas and a Gothic statue of St. Wenceslas stands in the middle of the wall. The chapel is not open to the public, but it can be viewed from two doorways. It is also here that the priceless Bohemian coronation jewels, the fourth oldest in Europe, are stored behind a small door secured by seven locks. The Czech Crown Jewels are only displayed to the public once every eight years, however, the replicas can be seen in the Old Royal Palace.

Religious services in the Cathedral can be attended daily and confessions are heard twice a week.

After visiting all of the attractions included in our ticket, we were free to wander the grounds of the castle. There are many other parts of the castle to visit, including the gardens, St. George’s convent and the National Gallery, the exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, the Powder Tower, the Toy Museum and the picture gallery of Prague Castle. One of the most memorable things to take in is the changing of the guard which takes place hourly on the hour with the midday ceremony including a fanfare & banner exchange.

No visit to the Czech capital is complete without a visit to the Prague Castle. Whether you decide to walk the grounds or purchase a ticket and visit one of the many historical buildings within the grounds, you will not be disappointed with all that there is to offer.

For additional pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Prague Castle

https://www.hrad.cz/
Address: Prague Castle, Castle District, Prague 1, Czech Republic
Admission Information: https://www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle-for-visitors/tickets
Ticket Type: Prague Castle – Circuit A, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower, Powder Tower
Ticket Type: Prague Castle – Circuit B, Adults, 250CZK, Students 125CZK, Family 500CZK
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower
Prague Castle – Circuit C, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, Adults 140CZK, Students 70CZK, Family 280CZK
Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Adults 300CZK, Students 150CZK, Family 600CZK
Prague Castle Picture Gallery, Adults 100CZK, Students 50CZK, Family 200CZK
Powder Tower – Exhibition of the Castle Guard, Adults 70CZK, Students 40CZK, Family 140CZK
Great South Tower with a View Gallery, Adults 150CZK
Note: Tickets are valid for two consecutive days.
Photography Permit, 50CZK, photography allowed without flash and tripod, prohibited in exhibitions “The Story of Prague Castle”, “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral” and in Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Hours: Prague Castle Complex, daily 0600-2200, Historical buildings, April 1-October 31, 0900-1700, November 1-March 31, 0900-1600, Prague Castle Gardens, April & October, 1000-1800, May & September, 1000-1900, June & July 1000-2100, August, 1000-2000, Changing of the Guard, April-October, hourly on the hour, 0700-2000, November-March, hourly on the hour, 0700-1800
St. Vitus Cathedral Masses: Sunday Mass, 0830 (celebrated in Latin every last Sunday of the month), Sunday Vespers, 1700 (not during July-September), Monday-Thursday Mass, 0700, Friday Masses, 0700 and 1800, Saturday Mass, 0700, Confessions (Czech and English) Sunday, 0930-1000 and Friday, 1730-1750.
Getting There: Metro station: Malostranska (line A), then take tram 22 to Prazsky hrad (shortest route). You can also walk the many steps uphill from Malostranska.

In Case of Attack…

During the Cold War, the threat of a nuclear attack was very real for all living in Czechoslovakia.

Czech citizens were constantly brainwashed to hate everything from the west. Children were taught in schools and adults at work to be constantly prepared to evacuate in the event of a nuclear attack and how to handle the effects of an attack. Suitcases were packed with the essentials needed to survive in the bunkers…radios, batteries, food.

The bunkers were not designed for comfort, but merely a means to keep people alive for a couple of weeks until plans could be made to evacuate the people to the countryside.

During one of my “offbeat things to do” searches for Prague, I came across the Nuclear Bunker tour. Tour times are offered twice a day…once in the morning, which did not quite work with our arrival time, while on layovers. The other tour, at 2:30, meant that I could maybe get a half hour of sleep before heading down to the tour office to sign up, but after flying all night, somehow I never made it. So, finding myself with extra time in Prague while visiting with my son, I decided that it was now or never.

The tour office, located in the Art Passage, just past the U Prince hotel, is a small cubicle next to the Money Exchange office on the left hand side of the passage, a few feet after stepping inside. Finding it closed for lunch from 1:00 until 2:00, we walked out to the Old Town square to watch the Astronomical Clock perform its two o’clock show before returning to purchase our tickets. Seemingly, an extremely popular tour, we were amazed with the amount of people who purchased their tickets after us and began their wait for the tour to begin.

Beginning as a walking tour, we departed Old Town and encountered many places that played a role in the Cold War era, including the Secret Police headquarters and Wenceslas square. It was in Wenceslas Square that Jan Palach, a student of history and political economy at Charles University in Prague, set himself on fire on January 16, 1969 to protest the invasion of the Soviet Union. A very inconspicuous monument in front of the National Museum marks the place of his death.

Other places of interest, such as the Reduta Jazz Club, which attempted to promote Jazz at the time when this genre was condemned by the Communist regime, and artwork by Czech artist David Cerny were pointed out, including “Hanging Out” a Colonel Sanders-sequel figure that dangles suicidally from a rooftop near Old Town, the giant babies that climb the Zizkov TV Tower and the Franz Kafka Rotating 42-Layer Head.

While most of these places and points of interest can be visited on your own, the most riveting parts of the walking tour were the stories that our tour guide Katarina told us of her family’s experiences with communism. The Melantrich Balcony, near Wenceslas Square, served as a tribune for speakers to the masses of protesters in 1989 during the Velvet Revolution. Although just a young child, she accompanied her parents to this site to hear Vaclav Havel address protesters at the beginning of the fall of communism.

After our visit to Wenceslas Square, we boarded tram number 9 (included in the tour price) for the final part of our tour. A few stops later we were making our way down to the Nuclear Bunker.

Climbing down the four story spiral staircase, one can only imagine the panic and chaos you would encounter in the event of an actual nuclear attack. Stale, musty air greets your nostrils and not much else. Designed to give each person one meter of space, it is a stark and cramped area, although interesting to note, this particular bunker has been used as a club venue in recent years.

Walking down the corridor, past a storage area, we then made our way through the bathroom facilities and into the medical area. This location offers museum-like displays depicting the area’s usage. The next corridor offered a wide array of gas masks, many pictures from protests and other interesting protective suits designed for children.

Passing thru the next doorway into the small vestibule, an exhibit for a communications office is presented in an adjacent room and a depiction of the decontamination area. A weird mannequin wearing a Santa hat and called “Santa” guards the door. Walking further, you are confronted with strange displays of children wearing gas masks and carrying guns and dolls. Crates of ammunition (hopefully disabled) line the walls.

Finally, the fun part. A large assortment of coats, hats, gas masks and guns are available for visitors to try on and take pictures with alongside gas-mask wearing mannequins and a large Russian flag. Just don’t push the BIG RED button!

After making your way back through the many corridors, you climb the spiral stairway once again. Upon exiting the heavy steel doorway, you can take a deep breath of fresh air and gaze upon a still intact civilization.

A small local bar occupies the area outside of the bunker. In the event of being a little unnerved during your time so far down inside the earth, a cold beer can help to take the edge off!

A short walk takes everyone back to the tram and to Wenceslas Square where your tour guide leaves you to make your way back to your hotel or to your next destination!

In such a beautiful city, with photo opportunities everywhere you look, it’s hard to imagine the city’s dark past. Unless you are privy to the specific locations, one would never know that there are countless bunkers (in addition to the deep metro stations) that still lie in wait in the event of a nuclear attack. Definitely one of the most unique tours I have ever taken, visiting the Nuclear Bunker was most definitely a highlight of all my visits to this amazing city.

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Communism and Nuclear Bunker Tour

http://www.prague-communism-tour.com/#_=_
Address: Malé Námêstí, 459/11, Praha 1, 110 00
Tour Times: 1030 and 1400, daily, except December 24 and 25
Tour Price: Adults, 600 CZK (about $25), Students, 500 CZK (about $21)

African Assumptions

“Let’s go out clubbing tonight!”
“Where? Here in Accra? Are there even clubs here?”

That conversation showed how clueless I once was about Accra’s nightlife scene.

There are many ideas that people have about Africa that are so incorrect. I remember once after having my mom watch the Amazing Race’s Ghana episode, her telling me that she was surprised that there were such big buildings. I guess she never gave much thought to the idea that I probably stayed in an actual full-scale hotel. My brother’s pictures from his time with the Peace Corp in Mali probably further fueled her skewed perception of life in Africa…he lived in a small cinder block house in an outlying village and there were many pictures of him standing out in the plains with nothing around him as far as the eye could see.

But, if you think about it, many people’s experience with Africa is limited by what they see on television. Older people grew up watching Marlin Perkin’s Wild Kingdom on Sunday nights. African villagers, life in huts and on the plains was always shown as the norm. This part of Africa still exists, however, today, many African cities are almost as modern as the one you live in.

In Accra, new construction is present everywhere you look, thanks in part to the gold boom. There are shopping malls, fast food chains and many tall buildings popping up all over the city. For every beat up taxi driving the streets, there are Lexus’ and Range Rovers following right behind…quite a far cry from the Ghana I remember from my first visits.

Years ago, I remember always asking for a hotel room with a market view. A bit of a voyeur, I loved watching the people at the colorful market across the street, busy as bees, on their way to and from whatever was on their agenda that day. Today, the market is gone and a tall, glass office building has taken its place. And…no longer do we stay in that same hotel. As newer luxe hotels have begun moving into the city, we have changed accommodations which include “heavenly beds” and infinity edge pools.

In Dakar, Senegal, one of the hotels we have stayed in recently, is a very high end brand. I will never forget ordering a beer at the pool and finding out that I was charged $7. “Well, that’s what you would pay in New York!”, one of my crew members said to me, to which I replied, “Well, that same beer in the supermarket near the hotel is thirty cents and I am in Africa, not New York!”

That first night we went out dancing in Accra, I was blown away. Tucked away on a side street in Osu, were many clubs. Not having prepared for the nightlife scene, I had nice clothes, but some of these people were really decked out. High heels and sexy outfits were the norm and I am sure that my coworkers and I stood apart. But what surprised me most, was that if you had blindfolded me and asked me where I was, I couldn’t have distinguished it from any other city that I’ve traveled to. Great music and an awesome atmosphere…we danced the night away. When I described the night’s experience to someone, I could see the confusion on their face…I’m sure a night of dancing in Africa, in their imagination, entailed drums and a village fire.

Since, that first night, I have visited many other clubs in Ghana, Senegal and South Africa. But, what I think I took away from that first night is that everyone should always experience everything that you can in any city. Always take advantage of whatever any city has to offer…what is there, just might surprise you!

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Art in Accra

Walking up Barnes Road in Accra, I was seeking out the National Museum of Ghana.

Not sure which corner it was located at the intersection of Barnes and Liberia Roads, I sought the assistance of a local Ghanaian man. Pointing me to the northwest corner of the block, he showed me the building that I should go to.

Walking up to the building, I noticed that the man had directed me to the Museum of Science and Technology. Not sure what to do, I decided to enter the building so that I could ask for more directions.

The gentleman seated at the door, was very welcoming but informed me that the National Museum of Ghana was presently closed for much needed repairs. He did let me know that the Museum of Science and Technology was hosting an art exhibit entitled “Cornfields in Accra” and that I was welcome to walk around, check it out and then give them my opinion.

With nothing else on my agenda, I decided Why not?
Having been an Interior Architecture student in college, I am no stranger to art projects and exhibits, but walking around the ground floor, I was a bit confused. The only piece that seemed like an art piece was the seashell sculpture in the center of the room which rose up from the floor into the open area on the second floor. Every other piece seemed to be piles of things…hats, old electronics and a record player continually playing the same sound bite over and over. There was a series of three paintings on the wall that were interesting, but I was not sure how these all related to each other or a theme.

Scanning the brochure that had been handed to me when I entered the building, I learned that the exhibit was entitled Cornfields in Accra, based on the title from Ghanaian writer Ama Ata Aidoo’s poem. Cornfields in Accra is the sequel to The Gown Must Go To Town, the exhibition from last year. The exhibition showcases work by a choice selection of artists from the 2016 graduation class, as well as guest artists comprising alumni, teaching assistants and collaborating exhibitors from the engineering and life sciences departments of the University.

Further scanning the brochure, I learned a bit more.

“The works span contemporary art and allied practices which anticipate emergent formats, ideas and configurations of emancipated futures. The artists are not only concerned with human life but also contemplate other possibilities where animals, plants, machines, quanta and micro-organisms become potential platforms and media for reflection, engagement and interaction. This exhibition also honors the memory of Goddy Leye (1965-2011), a Cameroonian conceptual artist whose interventionist practice was very influential for the development of video/media, art film, installation and community-oriented work”.

“Okay.” I thought, “Maybe this will make sense when I get to the second floor.”

Walking up on of the corner staircases to the second floor, I eagerly glanced around the vast space at the different displays. Sadly, it seemed to be a bit more of the same…lots more piles of things and some hanging displays. It seemed as though everyone was given a particular item and was told to “run with it”.

Balloons dressed with panties…

Razor blades…

Weave hair…

Egg crates…

Foam…

VCR tapes…

Animal bones and horns…

There were two displays that caught my eye, however. There were masks made of aluminum and paper and a display of wooden masks on another wall. With these, I at least understood the craftsmanship involved.

The only redeeming factor of some of these displays was that I was able to get some interesting photographs.

It was extremely hot within the building and after forty-five minutes, I was quite anxious to make my way back to my hotel and the wonderful infinity pool waiting for me.

After signing the guest book with my comments on the exhibition, I was finally free to exit and begin my return. Although, I didn’t quite understand the exhibition, I am glad that I was able to see something different in Accra. It’s not often that I am able to experience any kind of exhibition, much less those in a foreign city, but, I could see the pride in the eyes of the people running the show. They were anxious to share their work and the work of others. If giving up a short bit of my day helped out the local students, then definitely, I was happy that I accidentally stumbled upon this exhibit.

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Museum of Science and Technology

http://www.ghanamuseums.org/science-tech-museum.php
Address: Liberia Road, Accra
Hours: 0900-1630, daily
Admission: Cornfields in Accra exhibit, free. Regular exhibits, adult foreigners, GH¢ 10.00, Ghanaian adults GH¢ 2.00, Ghanaian students GH¢ .20-1.00, foreign children GH¢ 2.00

The Seeker of Independence

Walking down Barnes Road, toward the coast, on many occasions, to purchase local crafts at the Arts Market in Accra, I’ve noticed a large structure in a park-like setting. Checking a local map, I discovered it to be the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial, dedicated to the memory of the prominent Ghanaian leader Kwame Nkrumah.

Dr. Nkrumah, the former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, led Ghana to seek its independence fifty-nine years ago. Born on the country’s gold coast, he was educated in the United States, earning a Bachelor of Arts degree in economics and sociology in 1939, a Bachelor of Theology from Lincoln seminary, a Master of Arts degree in philosophy and a Master of Science in education from the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia. Upon his return to Ghana, he made brief stops in Sierra Leone, Liberia, and the Ivory Coast. He then started his political career by working for the colony’s first true political party, the United Gold Coast Convention in December of 1947. His first office, Leader of Government Business, eventually led to his appointment as prime minister. After Ghana’s independence in 1957, he was elected president, with his reign ending in 1966 when he was deposed. Going in to exile in Guinea, he was never to return to Ghana during his lifetime. Falling ill, he died in Bucharest, Romania in 1972, while seeking medical treatment. Buried in Guinea, where he was served as co-president, he was finally returned to Nkroful, Ghana, the village of his birth. The empty tomb, can still be found in Nkroful, however, Nkrumah’s remains were transferred to the large national memorial tomb in Accra.

Having an extra day on my most recent trip to Ghana, I decided to dedicate it to seeing more of what Accra has to offer. Since the Nkrumah monument was not far from the hotel, I decided to make it the focus of my day.

Arriving at the front of the property, there are no signs which direct you to the entrance. A security guard pointed me to an open gate and said that I was welcome to walk throughout the complex. After entering the grounds and being asked for my ticket at the museum, however, I was finally directed to an entrance gate on the far right side of the property, where I paid my admission fee.

The impressive structure that dominates the property is a mausoleum, designed by Don Aurthur and houses the bodies of Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, and his wife Fathia Nkrumah.

When approaching the mausoleum from High Street, it is preceded by statues of bare-chested Ghanaian flute blowers and other musicians sitting in long fountains of water. The fountains were not operating, taking away from what I would imagine would be a beautiful sight. Directly in front of the mausoleum, is an impressive bronze statue of Kwame Nkrumah standing in the precise spot that he declared Ghana’s independence on March 6, 1957. The mausoleum is reached by concrete bridges on all four sides. The five acres of gardens surrounding the fountains and the mausoleum are alive with old and newly planted trees from dignitaries of other countries.

The mausoleum, built with Italian marble, represents an upside down sword, a symbol of peace in the Akan culture. The black star at the apex symbolizes unity and a skylight at the top of the Mausoleum illuminates the grave which is in the center of the mausoleum.

Another Nkrumah statue, behind the mausoleum, stands headless. Originally residing in front of the Old Parliament House, this statue was vandalized and de-headed during the February 24, 1966 military and police coup d’etat. The recovered head, which was presented by a patriotic citizen to the information service department, sits next to the statue.

A small museum is at the rear of the property. This museum, houses many of the personal items of Dr. Nkrumah as well as correspondence and photographs of his meetings with many important world dignitaries.

There is also a small gift shop at the rear right side and a refreshment stand on the left side of the property with some picnic tables.

The Memorial is interesting to visit and very educational for those unaware of Ghana’s history. Though needing a bit of upkeep, it is also a fitting tribute to a great man.

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Kwame Nkrumah Memorial and Mausoleum

Address: High Street, Accra, Ghana
Hours: unknown
Admission: 10 cedi

The Light and the Village

There isn’t a large list of tourist attractions and museums in the city limits of Accra. Venturing out to many places outside the city, I had only visited a couple of markets and one of the beaches within its boundaries.

Having read about the Jamestown lighthouse, I knew that it wasn’t very far from my hotel and maybe a cool place to get some pictures.

Hailing a cab outside the hotel was easy…getting the driver to understand where we were going was another story! A short drive later, we were in Osu, Accra’s downtown area. Realizing that he had not understood me, I finally had to show him a picture of the lighthouse on my phone. Another short drive and we were headed past my hotel again toward the coast and Jamestown.

Finding the brightly painted, red and white lighthouse locked, a woman finally appeared and informed us that she was the keeper of the structure. We each paid a 10 cedi entry fee and were allowed access to the interior. No longer functioning and in various states of disrepair, the lighthouse interior is not very impressive. After climbing the winding rickety stairs, however, we were rewarded with sweeping views of the coast, Fort St. James and the Jamestown fishing village directly below.

Quite windy at the top, it was a refreshing respite from the intense African heat. The walkway around the top felt sound although we tended to steer clear of the railing, unaware as to how often the lighthouse is inspected and maintained. We were able to see the light within the structure as it was still intact, although we were told it is inoperable.

Soon after our arrival at the the top of the structure, we were joined by a young Ghanaian man who introduced himself as Nice One. I was extremely skeptical of his offers to be our guide (for a donation) as we were already there and were really only interested in taking photos. Knowing full well how things sometimes work in Ghana, I continually rebuffed his offers, although he insisted on giving us the history of the lighthouse.

Built by the British in 1871 at James Fort, the lighthouse was replaced by the current structure in the 1930’s. Standing at 112 feet above sea level, it has a visibility of 16 nautical miles. It has stood tall and proud and been a part of the Jamestown community for many years.

Curious about the village below, I began to ask Nice One about the community and the seawall that extended adjacent to it. An extremely personable man, he answered my questions and eventually won over my trust. Speaking with my colleagues, we agreed to have him lead us on a tour of the adjacent fishing village.

Leading us down the road toward the village, he briefed us on village life and instructed us that if we wanted to take pictures, to ask him first. Without thinking, one of my coworkers lifted her camera to take a picture of a boat and was met with yells and cursing by some of the village men who thought that she was taking a picture of them. After a few minutes of fast-talking, Nice One thankfully seemed to calm them down and we were allowed to continue with our tour.

The villagers stayed mostly to themselves, but occasionally we were met with curious glances and more often than not, very suspicious glances. Everyone was busy with the tasks of the day. Racks of fish were drying and being smoked. Mountains of coconuts husks sat near bottles of coconut oils. Fish were being cooked on numerous grills. Some men were carving boats. Others, we could see out on the water, making their catch.

The children were very welcoming and we were able to snap some photos of them playing. We were then brought to the school where we were introduced to some of the children. A simple structure, the school had no walls, only a roof and a dirt floor, however, the teacher was quite proud to show us around.

As our tour came to an end, we decided upon a tip to Nice One of 20 cedi for his time showing us a side of Ghana that many are not fortunate to see. He walked us to the main road and insisted upon hailing a cab for us and gave me his phone number so that I could call if we needed anything.

Feeling quite fortunate to have things work out for our visit to the lighthouse, I do realize that many people may find themselves in an uncomfortable situation when visiting this area. Reading reviews by other travelers, I learned of those hassled by young men insisting that the entrance fee be paid to them or that they were the official tour guides for the light house. Others told tales of having knives pulled on them. Definitely not a place to be wandering alone, one should arrange for a tour prior to their arrival with official city tour guides or hope to find someone as reliable as Nice One, as we did. Never would I ever recommend to anyone to enter the Jamestown village on their own. The people are quite suspicious of outsiders and seem to resent tourists treating their town as a tourist attraction.

Fort Christiansburg — Fort Christiansborg

Additionally, the Fort Christiansborg, across the street from Jamestown fishing village, is often listed as an attraction on some travel sites, as it was the place that Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s first prime minister and president was held for three years beginning in 1950. The place has not been maintained and the fort is not open for visits.

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Jamestown Lighthouse

Cleland Road, Accra, Ghana
Hours: not published
Admission: varied

The Amazing Acropolis

High above Athens, the Acropolis keeps watch over the city.

The flat topped, steep and rocky hill is the home to the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, the Propylaia and the temple of Athena Nike. The Acropolis’ monuments have survived for almost twenty-five centuries through wars, explosions, bombardments, fires, earthquakes, sackings, interventions and altercations and still they stand after the multitude of changes that Greece has seen over time. The heart of the city, it still represents what it originally stood for, Democracy, Philosophy, Freedom of Expression and Speech and a place where people from all continents converge.

Having visited the Acropolis on many occasions, my original intent was to visit the Acropolis museum. After finding that photography is not allowed within the building, I decided to head to the Acropolis first, saving the museum for later when I would need a place to cool off from the heat of the day.

The line for entry was quite long, encompassing tourists from many countries, however the major shock was the difference in price from my last visit. Two years ago, the admission price was only 12€…today, the entry fee has jumped to 20€. Additionally, the price from two years ago, included all of the ancient sites, Dionussus Theater and the Southern slope, Temple of Zeus, Agora and Agora Museum, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos and Roman Agora and was valid for four days. Today, you must purchase a Multi-site ticket which covers the above attractions and costs 30€.

Making my way thru the gates, I headed up the winding path among the ruins that line the pathway, with a stop to rest and admire the theater of Herod Atticus, built by the Romans in 161 AD. The theater is still used today for classical concerts, ballet and performances of high cultural value. Further on is the Theater of Dionysious, the first stone theater and home to Sophocles, Aeschylus, Euripides and Aristophanes. Rebuilt around 342 BC it was then enlarged by the Romans for gladiator flights.

After the remaining climb, I found myself at the entrance, the Propylaea, dating back to 432 BC. A magnificent first view of your destination, it is also the point where the most excited tourists, stop to take group pictures and selfies. Navigating your way around these individuals proves to be challenging, especially on the smooth marble steps.

On your left is the Pinacotheca and a Hellenistic pedestal and on the right, the tiny temple to Nike Athena. The temple commemorates the Athenians victory over the Persians and sits on a platform overlooking the islands of the Saronic Gulf.

Walking out onto the plateau, that is the Acropolis, your first views are of the Parthenon on your right and the Erecthion on your left. The buildings of the Acropolis were built by Pericles in the fifth century BC and were considered the most sacred buildings and the safest part of the city. As little as 150 years ago, there were still dwellings on the Acropolis.

The Erecthion, my favorite part of the Acropolis, contains the porch of the maidens or Caryatids. These statues are copies as four of the original statues reside in the Acropolis museum and the fifth, in the British museum. The building sits on the most sacred site of the Acropolis where Poseidon and Athena had their contest over who would be the Patron of the city. Athena, declared the victor, had the great city named for her. The building itself is the real religious temple of the Acropolis, sitting on what was the northeast corner of what was the original temple. This temple was burned and destroyed by the Persians in 480 BC.

Take the time to walk around the Erecthion and inspect all side of this structure before continuing to the Parthenon. You can get some really nice photos when the sun is behind the building in the afternoon.

The Parthenon, still being taken apart and being put together from the wear and tear of centuries of exposure to the elements is encased in scaffolding, taking away from the full beauty of the building. Restoration has been going on for the past thirty years and will probably continue onward for an equal amount of time. That being said, impressive in scale and that which we associate the Acropolis with, it is an architectural marvel. Designed by Kallikrates and Iktinos as a tribute to the past and the achievements of the Ancient Athenians it was also erected to house a giant statue of Athena. It was also not a temple or place or worship as most people assume and used as a treasury to store the tribute paid by the other Greek city-states and a storage facility for Turkish gunpowder.

After making your way around the Parthenon, move over to the northeast corner of the Acropolis to where the mighty Greek flag flies high. Standing in this location you can see many landmarks including Mount Lycabettos, the National Gardens, the Plaka, Hadrian’s Arch, the Temple of Zeus and the Olympic stadium. On a clear day, you can also see the port of Pireaus and some of the islands beyond.

After making your way back to the Propylaea, consider an exit to the right to visit the rock of Areopagos. The location where St. Paul spoke to the people of Athens in AD 51, there is a tablet embedded in the stone that contains his words. Despite a very slippery climb, it offers a superb view of the Agora, the Plaka, Monastiraki, Omonia and much of Athens as well as a great place to watch the sunset. Continue onward down the hill toward the Agora and other parts of this fabulous, historic city.

Because I have visited the rock of Areopagos on a few other occasions, I decided to make my way back the way I had come and toward the Acropolis museum, my original destination. Passing the many artists that line Dioysiou Aeropagitou street, one caught my eye. Purchasing two paintings, it suddenly dawned on me that I would have to carry my prizes with me for the rest of the night. So…the museum or my hotel?

Big decision…the Acropolis museum would have to wait until another day…again.

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Acropolis

http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/gh351.jsp?obj_id=2384
Hours: 0800-2000, closed for some holidays
Admission: 20€
Getting There: Metro, Acropolis, then walk via Dionysiou Areopagitou Street. Metro, Monastiraki, then walk through the archaeological site of Ancient Agora, or Plaka district.