Seafaring on the Seine

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The Seine has always played an important role in Paris.

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Two Olympic games’ events were held here in the early 1900s.

The river divides the city into the two different areas, the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) and the Right Bank (Rive Droite), both with very distinct personalities.

Beautiful architecture, in the form of bridges, cross many areas of the tributary…some of the most noteworthy are Pont Neuf, Pont D’Austerlitz, Pont St. Michel, Pont Des Invalides, Pont Marie, Pont du Carrousel, Pont Royal, Pont Alexandre III, Pont de Bir-Hakeim.

The Seine provides a means of transportation and entertainment…maritime river vessels transport goods through the city and boats carry passengers on sight-seeing voyages and dinner cruises up and down the waterway.

Every year, millions of visitors arrive in Paris, hoping to see the city from all angles.  At some point during their visit, most make their way to the Seine…walking along the river and taking in views of the Eiffel Tower or crossing the river to access other parts of the city.

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One of the most popular attractions in Paris are the bateau-mouches, or river boats and there are a few different companies to choose from, including Vedettes de Paris, Bateaux Mouches and Bateaux Parisiennes.  Having only cruised on one of these companies, Bateaux Mouches, I really did not have much of an opinion on why one would be better than the others.  Same sights, different boats, right?

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Recently, my son and I decided to make good on a boat ride.  On his thirteenth birthday trip to Paris, we had planned to take a river cruise one evening.  It was extremely cold and windy and other activities encroached on our time.  Leaving Paris knowing we had missed out on one of the prime ways to see the city, we were quite disappointed.  While he was with me in Paris again, we were definitely not going to miss out.

IMG_6822Taking a walk towards the Eiffel Tower, it was almost lunch time.  Grabbing sandwiches, our plan was to take the next departure on the closest boat company, Bateaux Parisiennes, and have our lunch on the boat…only, our plan did not work.  We just missed the boat and had to eat our lunch while waiting for the next one to depart.   Lesson learned…make sure you know the departure times.

IMG_8236Boarding the Bateaux Parisiennes boat, I was quite impressed with the accommodations.  Instead of rows of seats, all facing foward, there were small seating areas near the windows and a raised row of seats at the center to accommodate larger crowds, all covered in a nice, light-colored woodgrain.   Many television monitors were strategically placed throughout the boat showing upcoming scenery and retractable handsets offered a detailed commentary of the passing attractions.  A stairway at the center of the boat led to the top of the boat where benches lined the exterior for those (like us) willing the brave the misty afternoon.  There was also a vending area at the rear of the bottom level with soft drinks and snacks available and the boat was extremely neat and clean.

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Passing the famous buildings and attractions, we decided to brave the misty weather and  go to the top of the boat for a while.  Coasting by Jardin des Tuileries, The Louvre, Musee D’Orsay, and finally Ile de La Cité, where Notre Dame presides in all of its glory, we had a prime view of the famous landmarks and the upper deck almost to ourselves as we glided under the beautiful bridges that cross the Seine.

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The boat finally rounded Ile de La Cité and began it’s return journey.

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As we passed our starting point and admired the Eiffel Tower, I assumed we were on our way to Swan Island to make the turn and view the Statue of Liberty.  Sadly, though I remember seeing the Statue of Liberty on previous trips, we did not go that far and returned to our starting point.

After docking, we were free to leave and continue our exploration on foot along the Seine.

When visiting the beautiful city of Paris, grab some snacks and drinks and head down to the Seine.  Try one of the river boats and see the city from a different perspective!  Or better yet, try one of the dinner cruises on their restaurant boats! Night or day, it’s a lovely way to enjoy the city.

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Bateaux Parisiennes

  • http://www.bateauxparisiens.com/english.html
  • Address:  Port de la Bourdonnais, 75007 Paris, France (just in front of the Eiffel Tower)
  • Hours:  October-March, 1030-2200, departures approximately every hour.  April-September, 1000-2230 (2300, Aug), departures approximately every half hour.  Additional departures from Notre Dame from April-November.  See website for more detailed information.
  • Admission:  €15
  • Getting There:  Metro, Line 6, Bir-Hakeim stop, Line 9, Trocadero stop, Bus 42, 92, RER, Line C, Champs de Mars – Tour Eiffel stop

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The Dead Residents

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Paris has many beautiful and interesting cemeteries.

Pere Lachaise, the largest and most famous, is located in the 20th arrondissement of Paris.  Established in 1804, by Napoleon, the cemetery is notorious for its famous inhabitants, including Irish novelist, poet and playwright, Oscar Wilde, French singer, Edith Pilaf, Italian painter and sculptor, Amedeo Modigliani, Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, French playwright, Moliere, Opera singer, Maria Callas, and American singer and songwriter, Jim Morrison.

Known as the first big cemetery outside the city walls of Paris, it is one that many visitors to Paris seek out.

Making my way from Montparnasse, it was a bit of a hike to Pere Lachaise, however, I was anxious to visit this cemetery that had been on my Paris To Do list for some time.

Arriving at the metro stop, Pere Lachaise,  I found a secondary gate located just across the street.  Just inside the doorway was a large map detailing the 118 acre cemetery and locations of its most famous burial sites.

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IMG_0885Wandering along the avenues and pathways within the cemetery and its moss-covered tombs, I soon passed the main gate.  Checking the posted map again, I began my search for Jim Morrison’s grave.  Walking uphill and minding my steps on the cobblestones in the misty afternoon, I found the masses of gravesites and lack of signage quite confusing.  Noticing the number of other people seemingly heading the same direction, I continued my quest.  Finally, spotting a large group and their tour guide, one pathway over, I realized that I had found my destination.

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Surrounded by a fence, The Doors’ lead singer’s grave was a bit of an anticlimax.  Pere Lachaise cemetery is filled with many elaborate, large-scale mausoleums and crypts.  Jim Morrison’s was very minimal though covered with flowers.  A constant stream of visitors came and went as I stood there.  Noticing a tree, next to the fenced area, covered in bamboo, I approached it and began reading the many notes inscribed on each of the bamboo slats and inspecting the mementos slipped between the slats.  Forty-five years after his death, it’s obvious that Mr. Morrison has left a lasting impression on the world and still has many fans to this day.

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Leaving the grave and making my way uphill toward the rear of Pere Lachaise, my next destination was the burial site of Oscar Wilde.  Not very difficult to find, but requiring a bit of stamina, Mr. Wilde’s tomb is a modern structure designed by sculptor Jacob Epstein.

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Surrounded by Plexiglas, I was surprised to see many bright red lipstick marks on the barrier.  A sign on the barrier states that anyone caught defacing the tomb or the barrier is subject to a fine.  Not sure about the marks, I did some research and found that since the 1990’s, female fans began leaving lipstick marks on the tomb…so many, in fact, that the outward appearance of the sculpture had a red appearance.  Many cleanings were required, each rendering the stone more porous and thus requiring more in-depth cleanings which further damaged the tomb.  After the Plexiglas barrier was erected, fans have continued to leave “kisses” for the creator of The Importance of Being Earnest.

As the close of the cemetery approached, I wandered throughout the cemetery, admiring the old crumbling tombstones, the grandiose chapels and intricate sculptures.  Passing the Communard’s Wall, where one hundred forty-seven combatants of the Paris Commune were shot and thrown into an open trench a the foot of the wall in 1871, the Crematorium, Mausoleum and the Monument Eleve Par Etats, which contains the bones of 2500 soldiers, killed in action during the Siege of Paris from 1870-1871, I retraced my steps to the exit.

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With the misty rain gaining momentum and the closing hour near, it was time to leave the peaceful graveyard.  Knowing that I had concentrated on two of the major burial sites, a mental note was made of the ones that I was unable to locate on this visit.

Another tidbit I discovered while researching the cemetery after my visit…take the metro to Gambetta and enter the cemetery’s gate northeast of the Crematorium, making your walk through the cemetery a downhill one.

With so much to discover, whichever way you enter to historic memorial park, you won’t be disappointed.

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Pere Lachaise Cemetery

  • http://www.perelachaisecemetery.com/
  • Address:  16 rue du Repos, 75020 Paris, France (Belleville / Père Lachaise)
  • Hours:  November 6-March 15, Monday-Saturday, 0800-1730, Sundays and Holidays, 0900-1730.  March 16-November 5, 0800-1800, Sundays and Holidays, 0900-1800.
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Metro stops, Pere Lachaise, Gambetta

 

Empire State of Mind

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Gosh!  I work in New York City.  I’ve spent lots of time in New York City!  What have I not done while in the city?

Sometimes it’s hard to think of things to do.  My son and I were in this exact predicament…we couldn’t think of a thing while in New York for an overnight visit!

What to do?  Pull out your phone and Google Things To Do in New York City. 

Statue of Liberty…yes, done.

High Line…yes, done.

Museum of Natural History…yes, done.

Empire State Building…NO!  Not done!

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With dinner plans in place for later in the evening, we opted to make the best use of our time.  Calling Lyft, we were quickly on our way to the iconic art deco building on the east side.

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IMG_9881Having heard tales of long lines, I was prepared for a bit of a wait, however, being four o’clock on a winter’s afternoon, it was not busy at all.  Making our way through the maze of roped off areas and security to the ticket counter, we soon had tickets in hand and were on our way to the elevator and the long ride to the top.

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Deciding to purchase tickets for both the Top and Main Deck, we ascended to the 80th floor and the Dare to Dream Exhibit, which chronicles the Empire State Building’s history, engineering and construction.

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An engineering marvel, the Empire State Building, 1,250 feet high, surpassed the Chrysler Building as the tallest building in the world.  Completed on May 1, 1931, it was built in only one year and 45 days.

OrigIMG_1080inal documents, period photographs, architectural sketches, construction notes and photos walk visitors through the creation of the iconic skyscraper.  It is here where you get your first glimpses of Manhattan from a bird’s eye view through the large windows that line this floor.

IMG_9911Taking the elevator, once again, we reached the 86th floor Observatory.  When people imagine visiting the Empire State Building, this is what they think of…the wrap-around deck that gives 360 degree open-air views of the Big Apple.

 

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Very windy and cold, we zipped up our jackets and donned our gloves so that we could enjoy the views of Central Park, the Hudson and East Rivers, the Brooklyn Bridge, Times Square, the Statue of Liberty and everything in between and beyond.  Because it was nearing sunset, we had amazing views of the changing sky to the west.

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Finally, we boarded the elevator for the 102nd floor and the Top Deck.  Instead of a manually operated elevator, this one shows the altitude rise instead of counting floors and we were soon at our destination.  In short time, we were exiting onto this topmost floor, where sadly, nothing was much different than the 86th floor.

Same views, just a little higher.

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When we had purchased out tickets, we had assumed that “the higher, the better”.  Though warmer and protected, I must admit, we were a little disappointed.  A very claustrophobic and small area, the windows were a bit higher up and a bit dirty.  Honestly, I would have preferred to return to the 86th floor to enjoy the final moments of the sunset.

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After a few pictures, to capture the fact that we paid an extra twenty dollars to visit the topmost floor, we were soon on our way, back to the bottom.

An impressive building, I would say that it is a must-see while in New York.  That being said, skip the 102nd floor and spend your time on the Main Deck Observatory.  After all, Hollywood has filmed many movies (An Affair to Remember, When Harry Met Sally, Sleepless in Seattle, to name a few) up here.  There’s a reason for that!

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Empire State Building

  • http://www.esbnyc.com/
  • Address:  17-25 W 29th St, New York, NY 10001, USA
  • Hours:  0800-0200, daily
  • Admission:  Standard Pass Main Deck, includes Dare to Dream Exhibit (80th floor), Observation Deck (86th floor, indoor and outdoor), Adult, $34, Child, $27, Senior, $31.  Standard Pass Top and Main Deck, also includes 102nd floor observatory (indoor), Adult, $54, Child $47, Senior, $51.  VIP Passes also available to skip the lines.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Light It Up!

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Each year, around Christmastime, Amsterdam offers up beautiful lighted artwork throughout the city…

If you haven’t been to the Amsterdam Light Festival, mark your calendars for next year!

Having heard about and seen some of these lighted art installations near Central Station, I decided that I wanted to see what this festival was all about.  Discovering that we would be there for its final night, we decided to purchase tickets for one of the boat tours which cruise along one of the routes.

Two routes are offered each year…this year’s routes, Watercolors, the boat route and Illuminade, the walking route.  The artwork presented along these two routes during the two month time span is selected from groundbreaking submissions by light artists from 93 countries and displayed throughout the city’s canals and the city’s Plantage neighborhood.

IMG_6295Since we had been out walking most of the day, we decided that it would be nice to relax on one of the boat tours.  Booking a five o’clock departure, we had hoped to be completed in order to have an early dinner.  Starting out near the front of Central Station, we cruised along the front of the station and out into the IJ before circling back to our starting point.  Finally, we headed into the canals and admired the beautiful pieces along the way.

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Though we thoroughly enjoyed the tour, there are some things I would like to point out.

Doing a bit more research after my tour, I discovered that there are some companies that offer boats with open top.  Although it may be a bit too cold for some, they do offer blankets and warm drinks.  Our boat was packed to capacity and sometimes hard to get a photograph through the boat windows.  We were, however, allowed to go out to the back of the boat and take photos in the open air.

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Next year, I do think that I would book a different boat company, but also take advantage of the Illuminade route.  Being able to take your time and enjoy each piece, up close, is surely worth the price of achy feet!

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Amsterdam Light Festival

  • https://amsterdamlightfestival.com/en/
  • Hours: Amsterdam Light Festival Water colors route, December 1, 2016 until January 22, 2017, 1700-2300.   Illuminade route, December 15, 2016 until January 8, 2017, 1700-2200.  Refer to the website for Amsterdam’s Light Festival 2017-2018 schedule.
  • Many boat companies offer tours starting near Central Station and prices vary among the companies.

The Only One

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Rome has many basilicas.

Amsterdam…only one.

Arriving in the Dutch capital via Amsterdam Central Station, one of the first landmarks you spy is the Basilica of St. Nicholas.  Located to the left, in the Old Town district, its two towers mark the skyline.

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Having always noticed this beautiful building, it was my desire to visit one day.  Never quite having the time or being able to arrive before closing, due to its restrictive schedule, I realized that its door were open one afternoon, while passing nearby.

Built over 129 years ago, the city’s main Catholic church, was designed by architect, Adrianus Bleijs and was originally called St. Nicholas Inside the Walls as it sat within the oldest part of the Amsterdam defense works.  It was elevated to basilica in 2012, during its 125th year of existence, during a celebration of Solemn Vespers.

Combining Neo-Baroque and Neo-Renaissance styles, the church’s exterior is easily recognizable with its two identical towers on either side of the ornate stained glass rose window.  A domed baroque octagonal tower is adorned with a large cross.  Above the rose window, a statue of St. Nicholas, the patron saint of Amsterdam and seafarers, can be spotted.

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The basilica’s mixture of styles is carried on within the recently renovated church.  Designed with a three-aisled layout the large baroque dome sits above the crossing.

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Two chapels alongside the apse and the nave are devoted to Mary and Joseph and on both sides of the church and high above the altar, sits the crown of Maximilian I, a symbol seen throughout Amsterdam.

Netherlands Amsterdam St Nicholas Madonna and Child

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Take the time to inspect the beautiful religious murals that line the walls throughout the church, most importantly the 14 Stations of the Cross by Jan Dunselman which were painted from 1891 to 1898.  Interestingly, Dunselman used the faces of parishioners as his models preserving their likenesses for future parishioners and relatives to appreciate.  Other paintings commemorate the Miracle of Amsterdam and the Martyrs of Gorkum, 19 Catholic figures who were hanged in 1572.

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IMG_6286The pulpit, an elaborately designed piece by Pierre Elysee van den Bossche highlights the left of the structure as well as the 19th century Sauer organ at the rear of the church.  The German organ was built in 1889 and attracts large numbers of world renowned organists from around the world during the International Organ Concert Series every summer.  These musicians treasure the opportunity to not only enjoy the music from this magnificent instrument, but to perform on it as well.

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One last thing to note…when leaving the church, take look above you before crossing through the doorway.  A beautiful little wooden sailboat hangs silently, reminding us of Amsterdam’s seafaring ancestry and the basilica’s patron saint.IMG_6280

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St. Nicholas Basilica

  • http://www.nicolaas-parochie.nl/
  • Address:  Prins Hendrikkade 73, 1012 AD Amsterdam
  • Hours:  Monday, 1200-1500, Tuesday-Friday, 1100-1600, Saturday, 1200-1500 and 1630-1745, Sunday 0945-1400 and 1630-1730
  • Admission:  Free
  • Mass Schedule:  Sunday, 1030, High Mass, 1300 High Mass (Spanish), 1700 Gregorian Vespers (Latin), Monday-Saturday, 1230 Mass, (Tuesday-English, Friday-Spanish), Thursday, 1800, Vespers and Mass, Saturday, 1700, Choral Evensong, English

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Taking It To the Bank

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One night, while checking the recordings on my DVR, I noticed a title, Banksy Does New York.  Hmmm…spinoff of Debbie Does Dallas?

Discovering that my children were the culprits, they were questioned…who the heck was Banksy?

A world renowned contemporary artist, Banksy got his start spraying graffiti on the streets of Bristol, England.  Using a distinctive stenciling technique and dark humor, he has developed a cult-like following throughout the world.  His pieces, pop up randomly, sell for thousands of dollars and are amassed by well-known art collectors.

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But who is Banksy? Is he young or old?  Is he Caucasian or of African or Chinese descent?  He is short?  Is he tall?

Truth is…no one really knows.  Despite his popularity, Banksy has managed to remain anonymous.

IMG_6274Watching Banksy Does New York with my children, I was fascinated.  People scrutinize the internet in order to find his pieces, located on walls, streets, bridges and self-built prop pieces in cities throughout the world, before they are removed or defaced.  Some are just quick stencils on the sides of buildings.  Some have moving parts or actually move through the city, but most have strong political and social statements and almost all are quite humorous.

Imagine my delight to find that Banksy’s exhibit, Laugh Now, was being held at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Amsterdam while I was visiting.  No following websites or searching the streets to see a real authentic Banksy!  It was across town at MOCO for the price of admission.

Arriving at the museum, tickets in hand, we managed to avoid the lines that formed later in the day, thus proving what a major draw Banksy is.  The museum, located inside Villa Alsberg, a townhouse dating back to 1904, is the perfect yang to Banksy’s ying..the old meets the new.

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IMG_6263The displays were split between the upper and lower floors of the museum, and was combined with an exhibit on Salvador Dali on the basement floor.  Starting on the top floor, first stopping to admire his piece, Forgive Us For Our Trespassing on the staircase landing, we made our way through each of the themed rooms, Anti-capitalism, Laugh Now, Weaponry, There Is Always Hope and CCTV highlighting some of his classics like Laugh Now and Girl with Balloon.

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The entrance floor showcased some rescued pieces from the rubble of demolished buildings and other sculptural pieces (Rat-With-Umbrella, Cardinal Sin) as well as one of his famous Mona Lisa pieces and a huge canvas of the famous painting Beanfield which has not been displayed anywhere since 2009.

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Finally, moving on to the basement level, we encountered a final, large-scale Banksy…

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…as well as a small room with a film documenting his work around the world.

The Salvadore Dali exhibit was also very interesting with many paintings and his famous Mae West Lips Sofa, designed in 1937 and inspired by the lips of actress Mae West.  A large-scale melting clock is also on display…a tribute to his most famous painting, The Persistence of Memory.

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A gift shop is also located on the lower lever of MOCO selling t-shirts, books and other Banksy and Dali memorabilia.

If taking to the streets in search of a real Banksy is not in the cards for you, make sure to check out one of his exhibitions throughout the world.  Definitely worth seeking if you are a fan of graffiti art (like I am) and much easier than scouring the internet and walking through back alleys!  But, if the hunt is for you and you are in the Los Angeles or London, try and find some pieces still on the streets.

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF&msa=0&msid=206833562822512571407.00049d25df7020948a997  http://blog.saatchigallery.com/finding-banksy-london

Let me know if you find any!

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Banksy Exhibition at the Amsterdam Museum of Contemporary Art

  • https://www.mocomuseum.com/banksy-amsterdam
  • Address:  Museumplein, Honthorststraat 20, 1071 Amsterdam
  • Hours:  1000-1800, daily through March 29, 2017
  • Admission:  Adults, 12.50€, Students, 10€, Under 16, 7.50€
  • Getting There:  The Moco Museum is situated on the Museumplein, opposite of the Rijksmuseum and next to the Van Gogh Museum.  From Amsterdam Central Station, take Tram 2 (direction Nieuw Sloten), Tram 5 (direction Amstelveen Binnenhof), stop Van Baerlestraat, Bus 170 (direction Uithoorn, Amstelplein) or Bus 172 (direction Kudelstaart), stops Hobbemastraat or Museumplein.  From train station Amsterdam Amstel, take Tram 12 (direction Station Sloterdijk), stop Van Baerlestraat.  From train station Amsterdam Zuid WTC, take Tram 5 (direction Centraal Station), stop Van Baerlestraat
  • About the Artist:  http://www.banksy.co.uk/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Benched

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The Fault In Our Stars. 

Ever read the book by John Green?  Saw the movie?

A few years ago, I read the book.  Absorbed in the tragic, star-crossed lovers’ story and sobbing while sitting at the pool in Dakar, a co-worker actually came over to me to make sure that I was okay.  When the movie finally arrived in the theaters, I was there…tissues in my pocket, ready for what I knew was to come.

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A couple of weeks ago, while searching for a restaurant in Amsterdam, I noticed the words “Fault In Our Stars Bench” marking a spot on the map.

Remembering that I had heard that the bench had been stolen, presumably by fans or neighbors tired of the constant traffic, I had never thought to look for it in the city.  Well, apparently, it was back!

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While the bench had actually disappeared in 2014, it reappeared in its original location shortly after, with city officials confirming that it is the original bench on which characters Hazel and Augustus sat while visiting Amsterdam.

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Today, the bench now hosts a few locks securing the devotion of other lovers hoping to have the romantic connection that Hazel and Augustus shared.  You need not to be in love to go out in search of this movie prop…just a little adventurous and seeking a good photo op!

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The Fault In Our Stars Bench

  • Location:  Leidsegracht #4, where Herengracht and Leidsegracht meet.
  • Check out other film locations throughout the city, Peter van Houten’s house (Vondelstraat 162 near Vondelpark), Rijksmuseum (1 Museumplein), Anne Frank House (Prinsengracht 263-267).

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Gliding Along

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

How do you spend a winter’s day in Amsterdam?

Warming near a blazing fire with a steaming mug of hot chocolate?

Hunkering down in a cozy pub with a hearty pint?

Heading over to the Museumplein and checking out one of the many museums in the area (Rijksmuseum, MOCO, Van Gogh, Stedelijk, to name a few)?

Grabbing some skates and hitting the ice?

Years ago, the Dutch spent time in the winter, skating along in the many canals that run through the city.  Today, the temperatures do not get quite cold enough, not does the constant tour boat traffic allow for the water to stand still long enough to freeze.

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Now, if you want to ice skate, you need to find an indoor ice rink or one of the outdoor arenas that pop-up throughout the city during the winter months.

The Museumplein reflecting pond, turns into a frozen wonderland from November through early February.  A temporary building is erected next to the pond and offers a ticket window, rentals and a café.  A small bridge sits over the pond and allows non-skaters to get a birds’ eye view of the activity below as well as a beautiful view of the Rijksmuseum.

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So, when the temperatures, drop and you are searching for a great outdoor activity, grab a coat, mittens and hat and head over to the Museumplein for some good old fashioned winter fun!

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Ice Amsterdam

  • http://www.iceamsterdam.nl/en/home
  • Open November 18 through February 5, 2017.  Ice rink open, Sunday-Thursday, 1000-2100 and Friday-Saturday, 1000-2200.  Check website for next winter’s operating schedule.

 

 

 

Calling All Dan Brown Fans

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

A note on display in the church of St. Sulpice in Paris reads:

Contrary to fanciful allegations in a recent best-selling novel, this (the line in the floor) is not a vestige of a pagan temple.  No such temple ever existed in the place.  It was never called a Rose Line.  It does not coincide with the meridian traced through the middle of the Paris Observatory which serves as a reference for maps where longitudes are measured in degrees East or West of Paris.  Please also note that the letters “P” and “S” in the small round windows at both ends of the transept refer to Peter and Sulpice, the patron saints of the church, and not an imaginary “Priory of Sion”.

If you are a fan of Dan Brown’s 2003 novel, The Da Vince Code, then, this note will make complete sense.  Since the release of the international bestseller and the subsequent movie, crowds of tourists have flocked to Saint-Sulpice, in the City of Lights, to see the Rose Line.

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Admittedly, though a fan of churches, this is the real reason that I decided to visit St. Sulpice…not because it is the second largest church in the city (behind Notre Dame), not because the Marquis de Sade was baptized here or even to hear the renowned organists.

I wanted to see what the heck Dan Brown was talking about!

St. Sulpice, a Roman Catholic church in the Luxembourg Quarter, was founded in 1646 by parish priest Jean-Jacques Olier and the first stone was laid by Anne of Austria.

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The Late Baroque church was built over the span of a decade with construction beginning in 1646.  Various architects contributed to the multitude of designs and the interior structure was completed in 1745.  Damaged and turned into a Temple of Victory during the Revolution, it was restored and redecorated in the 19th century.

Known for being the site of the christenings of Marquis de Sade and Charles Baudelaire and the wedding of author Victor Hugo, it is also known for its resplendent artwork and chapels.

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Most noteworthy are the Delacroix frescoes in the Chapel of the Angels and Servandoni’s Rococo Chapel of the Madonna, with a Pigalle statue of the Virgin.  Another chapel contains the tomb of Curé Languet de Gergy who founded the world’s first pediatric hospital and oversaw the completion of the house of worship.  To the right of the entrance, take note of the two halves of an enormous shell.  Functioning as holy water fonts, these were given to King Francis I by the Venetion Republic and rest on rock-like bases sculpted by Jean-Baptiste Pigalle.

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The main focus of the church is its organ.  One of the world’s largest, with 6,588 pipes, it was constructed by Aristide Cavaille-Coll, the case was designed by Chalgrin and the statues were made by Clodion.  Having been played by many famous musicians, it is still known for its music and many concerts are still held in St. Sulpice to this day.

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Once you’ve checked out these fascinating aspects of the church, it is time to see what Dan Brown referred to in his book.

Near the middle of the nave on the right side, near a stone statue with a Latin inscription, look for the meridian line…a narrow brass strip that runs north across the nave and transept to an obelisk next to the statue of St. Peter.  Used to study the planets and determine the date of Easter each year, it works when the sun’s rays enter the church through a small opening in the south transept and rest on the line at various points throughout the year.  On the winter solstice, the rays hit the obelisk.  On the spring and autumn equinoxes, the rays hit the bronze table.

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The Da Vinci Code depicts an important scene in St. Sulpice which takes place around the meridian line.  An albino monk. Silas, searches for a keystone which is believed to unlock the secret of the Holy Grail.  In the book, the meridian line is described as the Rose Line and explained as being the original zero-longitude line which passed through Paris before being moved to Greenwich, England.  The monk, follows the line to the obelisk, only to find that he was misled in his search.

The meridian line was easy to find and there were many other visitors also taking a peek.

Envisioning the scene, it took me back to 2003 when I read the book in two days, so captivated by its story.  I almost expected to see Silas, not only a monk, but an assassin, attacking Sister Sandrine!

Captivated by St. Sulpice, I spent more time walking around its interior and making sure not to miss any part of its beauty and history.

Exiting the building, I longed to see the fountain, designed by Visconti and which bears the sculptures of the four bishops of the Louis XIV era…Fenelon, Massillon, Bossuet and Flechier, however, a Christmas market was being set up in the square in front of the church.  The area around the fountain and market was barricaded, not only prohibiting a close-up look at the fountain, but a wider-angled views of the façade of the church and its two mismatched towers.

When in the Luxembourg Quarter, in the 6th arrondissement, follow the signs (or the Rose Line!) to St. Sulpice.  Dan Brown or not, it is a church most worth visiting in Paris!

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For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

St. Sulpice Church

  • http://pss75.fr/saint-sulpice-paris/
  • Address:  Place Saint-Sulpice, 2, rue Palatine, 75006 PARIS
  • Hours:  Daily, 0730-1930
  • Admission:  free
  • Masses are held Monday-Saturday, 0700, 0900, 1205, and 1845; Sunday, 0700, 0900, 1030, 1205, 1845
  • How to Get There:  Metro stop, Saint-Sulpice.  Buses 58, 63, 70, 86, 87, 89, and 95 stop near the church.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Who You Gonna Call?

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

BOO!

Don’t you just love to be scared…listening to horrifying tales of ghosts and spirits roaming the earth?

Years ago, I took a ghost tour in Dublin.  We were ushered into a bus, transformed to have the appearance of a hearse.  Our tour guide regaled us with ghost stories and took us to some of Dublin’s most haunted locations.  It was great fun!

Our first night in Edinburgh, I noticed a large, double decker bus parked on the Royal Mile…The Ghostbus.  Gathering information from the ghastly dressed gentlemen trying to entice willing “victims” to take the tour, my son and I decided that it might be something we would like to do during our stay.  On our last night, we walked over to the starting point on the Waverly Bridge to purchase tickets.

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Boarding the bus, we were seated on the upper level…after our tour guide decided to jump out from behind a curtain to give us a scare!  The interior was created to look a bit like a cross between a funeral home and a hearse and was dimly lit.

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Realizing a few minutes into our presentation, that our tour guide was more of a paid actor, we were a little confused as to what the tour would entail.  Beginning our drive, he started with a tale of a ghost that purportedly resides on the street near Jenner’s Department store.  Stating that we were looking for a woman, dressed in white on the street corner, I really expected that this was more of a show and we would actually see a ghostly apparition on the corner.

More tales ensued as he pointed out different buildings along the way that were allegedly haunted.  Finally, our bus pulled to the curb and we disembarked at St. Cuthbert’s Kirkyard.

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Now, most people will be a little creeped out by being in a cemetery during the night and I must admit, it was a bit eerie.  Our tour guide stood before us on the steps and revealed tales of grave robbers and murder.  A couple of times, we did notice that he seemed to look off into the cemetery as he appeared to have seen or heard something…or maybe he was just a better actor than we thought!  However, a couple of people within our group said that they kept hearing noises behind us.  Again, because this seemed to be more of a production, I truly expected that there was some crazy surprise waiting behind a tomb.

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Departing from the cemetery, we drove through the Grassmarket area and on near Greyfriar’s Kirk Cemetery.  The tales continued.

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Finally, we pulled into a narrow lane and the bus stopped…was something wrong?  Engine trouble?

The tour guide/actor began the “finale” of the tour.  He became “possessed” as a spirit “entered” the bus and entire vehicle began to shake while loud noises came over the speakers.

Oh?  Okay.

Quite ready to be back in my hotel room watching “Most Haunted” on my television, we weren’t displeased when the bus parked along the curb on the Waverly Bridge to allow us to disembark.

While I enjoyed the historical aspect of the tour and the many haunted stories that accompanied it…we could have been spared the theatrics…unless they were serving drinks…then…maybe we would have appreciated it a little bit more.

My advice?  Take the tour in Dublin!

 

For more pictures on my travels, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Ghostbus Tour

  • http://www.theghostbustours.com/edinburgh/
  • Departure Point:  Waverly Bridge, near Princes Street Gardens, opposite Princes Mall exit of Waverly Station
  • Tours depart:  Sunday-Thursday, 1800, 1930, Friday-Saturday, 1800, 1930, 2100
  • Admission:  Adults, £16.00, Child £12.00, Student £14.00, Under 5, free (no seat), Family ticket (2 adults, 2 children, 5-15 years), £45.00
  • Getting There:  By Train, Waverly Bridge train station, By Bus #s, 1, 4, 10, 11, 15, 16, 19, 25, 34, 101, 102, 104, 106, 113, 124 – Princes street, #100 – Waverly bridge