photography – Page 51 – Snapping The Globe

The Castle on the Hill

When someone finds themselves in Prague for the very first time, no doubt, they will be drawn to the Prague Castle. A showpiece of the city, it is perched above the Lesser Town (Mala Strana) in the Castle District and keeps a watchful eye on the activities of the city.

One of the largest castle complexes in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site, it was founded in the 9th century by Prince Bořivoj of the Premyslid Dynasty. Consisting of numerous palaces and ecclesiastical buildings of various architectural styles, the castle is the official residence of the President of the Czech Republic. Once a seat of power for kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman emperors and presidents of Czechoslovakia, it is one of the primary tourist attractions of the city.

Up early and heading on the subway towards the Castle, we were excited for all that there was to experience in the complex. On previous visits, I had been on the Castle grounds but had never visited any of the major buildings. Exiting the Malostranska metro station, we decided to make the long steady climb to the castle rather than connect to the tram so that we could experience the beautiful views of the city along the way as well as encounter the Karel Hasler statue and the usual accompanying guitarist.

Once inside the complex, finding where to purchase tickets was a bit perplexing. Entering the Old Royal Palace, I finally discovered a ticket window. Many different attraction combinations are offered and we decided on Option B, the most popular option (according to the ticket seller) which included the Royal Palace and Vladislav Hall, St. Vitus Cathedral, Basilica of St. George and Golden Lane. After our tickets were purchased and we were waiting to enter Vladislav Hall within the palace, I noticed that now familiar sign…the one with the camera and a slash through it. Oh no! Not again! However, after reading a little further, I found that pictures were allowed with a permit that could also be purchased at the ticket window.

Entering Vladislav Hall, we were impressed with the size of the structure as well as the arch-ribbed vaulting of the ceiling, the large Italian Renaissance windows and the five bronze 16th century Renaissance chandeliers. Originally designed to serve as a throne hall, it was the largest hall in medieval Prague and one of the largest halls in Central Europe. Built in the Late Gothic Style with some Early Renaissance features, the exact dates of construction are not clear. Used for banquets, councils, coronations and indoor jousting tournaments, one of the most notable features is the Rider’s Staircase on the northern side which was designed to receive a knight on horseback.

One of the oldest parts of the Prague Castle, the Old Royal Palace dates back to 1135. Moving from Vladislav Hall in the southwestern corner into the former offices of the Bohemian Chancellery, you find the room where Protestant nobles, rebelling against the Bohemian estates and the emperor, threw two of the emperor’s counselors and their secretary out of the window, which sparked the Thirty Years’ War.

At the eastern end of the hall, steps lead up to a balcony that overlooks All Saints’ Chapel. Another doorway, leads to the Assembly Hall, which contains replicas of the Bohemian crown jewels. A spiral staircase leads to the New Land Rolls Room, the repository for land titles, where the walls are covered with the clerks’ coats of arms.

A couple of the most interesting stories about the castle pertain to the procurement of the castle by Nazi Germany in 1939. When President Emil Hacha was forced to hand the Czech nation over to the Germans, Adolf Hitler spent a night in the castle gloating over his new acquisition. During the Nazi occupation in World War II, the castle became the headquarters of Reinhard Heydrich, the “Reich Protector of Bohemia and Moravia”. Placing the Bohemian crown on his own head, he was doomed according to legend, which states that if a despot places the crown on his head, he is doomed to die within a year. Less than a year after assuming power, he was attacked by British-trained Slovak and Czech soldiers while on his way to the castle and died of his wounds.

The Old Royal Palace was very interesting and filled with history. The old saying, “If the walls could talk”, is definitely true here as many historical events have taken place on the premises.

Moving on from the Old Royal Palace, we decided to backtrack from the Palace towards our original entry point, to Golden Lane, the 15th century, old world street within the complex. Originally known as Goldsmith’s Lane for the many goldsmiths that resided there, it was created when a new outer wall was added to the existing complex.

Once when visiting the castle grounds, I was able to quickly walk through Golden Lane at the end of the day when the grounds were closing, but unable to catch more than a glimpse of the old world buildings. This time, we were able to visit each of the eleven historic houses that contain period scenes that depict the life of the artisans who worked and lived in the structures.

In the upper level of the houses, a medieval armory is showcased with a multitude of suits of armor and weapons. Cannons are also displayed in the courtyard at the entry area of the lane.

After our visit to Golden Lane was complete and we headed back toward the center of the complex, we decided to duck into St. George’s Basilica, while there was no line. The oldest surviving church building within the complex and the second oldest in Prague, the basilica was founded by Vratislaus I of Bohemia in 920. Rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in 1142, the present facade, with its twin white towers than can been seen throughout the city, was added between the years of 1671 and 1691. The basilica holds the tomb of saint Ludmila of Bohemia as well as shrines of Vratislav and Boleslaus II of Bohemia. It also serves as a concert hall.

Our next and final visit was to the imposing Gothic structure of St. Vitus’ Cathedral. To many people, the Prague Castle is St. Vitus Cathedral as it is what dominates the skyline. Known primarily as St. Vitus Cathedral, it is also dedicated to Saints Wenceslas and Adalbert.

The largest and most important church in the country, St. Vitus was founded on November 21, 1344. Taking almost six centuries to complete, it was damaged by a great fire in 1541 and its final phase of construction took place between 1873 and 1929.

The line to enter St. Vitus was extremely long and was hampered by the security measures employed at the entrance. After an hour’s wait, we were finally able enter the cathedral.

As we walked throughout the interior, we stood among the massive pillars supporting the magnificent vaulted ceiling and were impressed by the side chapels and the beautiful stained glass windows, most notably one designed by Mucha, installed in the north nave in 1931. The window, portrays St. Wenceslas, as a boy, with his grandmother, St. Ludmila, surrounded by episodes from the lives of Saints Cyril and Methodius who spread Christianity among the Slavs. The image of Slavia is also included below Christ.

The extraordinary cathedral has overseen the coronation of Czech kings and queens and contains the tombs of many Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors. In the chancel of the cathedral, in front of the high alter, is the royal mausoleum. Below this, the royal crypt accommodates the royal tombs. Czech kings and queens, archbishops and patron saints of the country are interred here, most importantly, St. John of Nepomuk and King Charles IV.

The most exceptional part of the cathedral is St. Wenceslas Chapel, built between 1344 and 1364 and is where the relics of the saint are kept. The lower part of the walls are decorated with over 1300 semi-precious stones and frescoes of the Passion of Christ. The upper walls’ paintings depict the life of St. Wenceslas and a Gothic statue of St. Wenceslas stands in the middle of the wall. The chapel is not open to the public, but it can be viewed from two doorways. It is also here that the priceless Bohemian coronation jewels, the fourth oldest in Europe, are stored behind a small door secured by seven locks. The Czech Crown Jewels are only displayed to the public once every eight years, however, the replicas can be seen in the Old Royal Palace.

Religious services in the Cathedral can be attended daily and confessions are heard twice a week.

After visiting all of the attractions included in our ticket, we were free to wander the grounds of the castle. There are many other parts of the castle to visit, including the gardens, St. George’s convent and the National Gallery, the exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, the Powder Tower, the Toy Museum and the picture gallery of Prague Castle. One of the most memorable things to take in is the changing of the guard which takes place hourly on the hour with the midday ceremony including a fanfare & banner exchange.

No visit to the Czech capital is complete without a visit to the Prague Castle. Whether you decide to walk the grounds or purchase a ticket and visit one of the many historical buildings within the grounds, you will not be disappointed with all that there is to offer.

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The Prague Castle

https://www.hrad.cz/
Address: Prague Castle, Castle District, Prague 1, Czech Republic
Admission Information: https://www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle-for-visitors/tickets
Ticket Type: Prague Castle – Circuit A, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower, Powder Tower
Ticket Type: Prague Castle – Circuit B, Adults, 250CZK, Students 125CZK, Family 500CZK
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower
Prague Castle – Circuit C, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, Adults 140CZK, Students 70CZK, Family 280CZK
Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Adults 300CZK, Students 150CZK, Family 600CZK
Prague Castle Picture Gallery, Adults 100CZK, Students 50CZK, Family 200CZK
Powder Tower – Exhibition of the Castle Guard, Adults 70CZK, Students 40CZK, Family 140CZK
Great South Tower with a View Gallery, Adults 150CZK
Note: Tickets are valid for two consecutive days.
Photography Permit, 50CZK, photography allowed without flash and tripod, prohibited in exhibitions “The Story of Prague Castle”, “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral” and in Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Hours: Prague Castle Complex, daily 0600-2200, Historical buildings, April 1-October 31, 0900-1700, November 1-March 31, 0900-1600, Prague Castle Gardens, April & October, 1000-1800, May & September, 1000-1900, June & July 1000-2100, August, 1000-2000, Changing of the Guard, April-October, hourly on the hour, 0700-2000, November-March, hourly on the hour, 0700-1800
St. Vitus Cathedral Masses: Sunday Mass, 0830 (celebrated in Latin every last Sunday of the month), Sunday Vespers, 1700 (not during July-September), Monday-Thursday Mass, 0700, Friday Masses, 0700 and 1800, Saturday Mass, 0700, Confessions (Czech and English) Sunday, 0930-1000 and Friday, 1730-1750.
Getting There: Metro station: Malostranska (line A), then take tram 22 to Prazsky hrad (shortest route). You can also walk the many steps uphill from Malostranska.

In Case of Attack…

During the Cold War, the threat of a nuclear attack was very real for all living in Czechoslovakia.

Czech citizens were constantly brainwashed to hate everything from the west. Children were taught in schools and adults at work to be constantly prepared to evacuate in the event of a nuclear attack and how to handle the effects of an attack. Suitcases were packed with the essentials needed to survive in the bunkers…radios, batteries, food.

The bunkers were not designed for comfort, but merely a means to keep people alive for a couple of weeks until plans could be made to evacuate the people to the countryside.

During one of my “offbeat things to do” searches for Prague, I came across the Nuclear Bunker tour. Tour times are offered twice a day…once in the morning, which did not quite work with our arrival time, while on layovers. The other tour, at 2:30, meant that I could maybe get a half hour of sleep before heading down to the tour office to sign up, but after flying all night, somehow I never made it. So, finding myself with extra time in Prague while visiting with my son, I decided that it was now or never.

The tour office, located in the Art Passage, just past the U Prince hotel, is a small cubicle next to the Money Exchange office on the left hand side of the passage, a few feet after stepping inside. Finding it closed for lunch from 1:00 until 2:00, we walked out to the Old Town square to watch the Astronomical Clock perform its two o’clock show before returning to purchase our tickets. Seemingly, an extremely popular tour, we were amazed with the amount of people who purchased their tickets after us and began their wait for the tour to begin.

Beginning as a walking tour, we departed Old Town and encountered many places that played a role in the Cold War era, including the Secret Police headquarters and Wenceslas square. It was in Wenceslas Square that Jan Palach, a student of history and political economy at Charles University in Prague, set himself on fire on January 16, 1969 to protest the invasion of the Soviet Union. A very inconspicuous monument in front of the National Museum marks the place of his death.

Other places of interest, such as the Reduta Jazz Club, which attempted to promote Jazz at the time when this genre was condemned by the Communist regime, and artwork by Czech artist David Cerny were pointed out, including “Hanging Out” a Colonel Sanders-sequel figure that dangles suicidally from a rooftop near Old Town, the giant babies that climb the Zizkov TV Tower and the Franz Kafka Rotating 42-Layer Head.

While most of these places and points of interest can be visited on your own, the most riveting parts of the walking tour were the stories that our tour guide Katarina told us of her family’s experiences with communism. The Melantrich Balcony, near Wenceslas Square, served as a tribune for speakers to the masses of protesters in 1989 during the Velvet Revolution. Although just a young child, she accompanied her parents to this site to hear Vaclav Havel address protesters at the beginning of the fall of communism.

After our visit to Wenceslas Square, we boarded tram number 9 (included in the tour price) for the final part of our tour. A few stops later we were making our way down to the Nuclear Bunker.

Climbing down the four story spiral staircase, one can only imagine the panic and chaos you would encounter in the event of an actual nuclear attack. Stale, musty air greets your nostrils and not much else. Designed to give each person one meter of space, it is a stark and cramped area, although interesting to note, this particular bunker has been used as a club venue in recent years.

Walking down the corridor, past a storage area, we then made our way through the bathroom facilities and into the medical area. This location offers museum-like displays depicting the area’s usage. The next corridor offered a wide array of gas masks, many pictures from protests and other interesting protective suits designed for children.

Passing thru the next doorway into the small vestibule, an exhibit for a communications office is presented in an adjacent room and a depiction of the decontamination area. A weird mannequin wearing a Santa hat and called “Santa” guards the door. Walking further, you are confronted with strange displays of children wearing gas masks and carrying guns and dolls. Crates of ammunition (hopefully disabled) line the walls.

Finally, the fun part. A large assortment of coats, hats, gas masks and guns are available for visitors to try on and take pictures with alongside gas-mask wearing mannequins and a large Russian flag. Just don’t push the BIG RED button!

After making your way back through the many corridors, you climb the spiral stairway once again. Upon exiting the heavy steel doorway, you can take a deep breath of fresh air and gaze upon a still intact civilization.

A small local bar occupies the area outside of the bunker. In the event of being a little unnerved during your time so far down inside the earth, a cold beer can help to take the edge off!

A short walk takes everyone back to the tram and to Wenceslas Square where your tour guide leaves you to make your way back to your hotel or to your next destination!

In such a beautiful city, with photo opportunities everywhere you look, it’s hard to imagine the city’s dark past. Unless you are privy to the specific locations, one would never know that there are countless bunkers (in addition to the deep metro stations) that still lie in wait in the event of a nuclear attack. Definitely one of the most unique tours I have ever taken, visiting the Nuclear Bunker was most definitely a highlight of all my visits to this amazing city.

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Communism and Nuclear Bunker Tour

http://www.prague-communism-tour.com/#_=_
Address: Malé Námêstí, 459/11, Praha 1, 110 00
Tour Times: 1030 and 1400, daily, except December 24 and 25
Tour Price: Adults, 600 CZK (about $25), Students, 500 CZK (about $21)

Art in Accra

Walking up Barnes Road in Accra, I was seeking out the National Museum of Ghana.

Not sure which corner it was located at the intersection of Barnes and Liberia Roads, I sought the assistance of a local Ghanaian man. Pointing me to the northwest corner of the block, he showed me the building that I should go to.

Walking up to the building, I noticed that the man had directed me to the Museum of Science and Technology. Not sure what to do, I decided to enter the building so that I could ask for more directions.

The gentleman seated at the door, was very welcoming but informed me that the National Museum of Ghana was presently closed for much needed repairs. He did let me know that the Museum of Science and Technology was hosting an art exhibit entitled “Cornfields in Accra” and that I was welcome to walk around, check it out and then give them my opinion.

With nothing else on my agenda, I decided Why not?
Having been an Interior Architecture student in college, I am no stranger to art projects and exhibits, but walking around the ground floor, I was a bit confused. The only piece that seemed like an art piece was the seashell sculpture in the center of the room which rose up from the floor into the open area on the second floor. Every other piece seemed to be piles of things…hats, old electronics and a record player continually playing the same sound bite over and over. There was a series of three paintings on the wall that were interesting, but I was not sure how these all related to each other or a theme.

Scanning the brochure that had been handed to me when I entered the building, I learned that the exhibit was entitled Cornfields in Accra, based on the title from Ghanaian writer Ama Ata Aidoo’s poem. Cornfields in Accra is the sequel to The Gown Must Go To Town, the exhibition from last year. The exhibition showcases work by a choice selection of artists from the 2016 graduation class, as well as guest artists comprising alumni, teaching assistants and collaborating exhibitors from the engineering and life sciences departments of the University.

Further scanning the brochure, I learned a bit more.

“The works span contemporary art and allied practices which anticipate emergent formats, ideas and configurations of emancipated futures. The artists are not only concerned with human life but also contemplate other possibilities where animals, plants, machines, quanta and micro-organisms become potential platforms and media for reflection, engagement and interaction. This exhibition also honors the memory of Goddy Leye (1965-2011), a Cameroonian conceptual artist whose interventionist practice was very influential for the development of video/media, art film, installation and community-oriented work”.

“Okay.” I thought, “Maybe this will make sense when I get to the second floor.”

Walking up on of the corner staircases to the second floor, I eagerly glanced around the vast space at the different displays. Sadly, it seemed to be a bit more of the same…lots more piles of things and some hanging displays. It seemed as though everyone was given a particular item and was told to “run with it”.

Balloons dressed with panties…

Razor blades…

Weave hair…

Egg crates…

Foam…

VCR tapes…

Animal bones and horns…

There were two displays that caught my eye, however. There were masks made of aluminum and paper and a display of wooden masks on another wall. With these, I at least understood the craftsmanship involved.

The only redeeming factor of some of these displays was that I was able to get some interesting photographs.

It was extremely hot within the building and after forty-five minutes, I was quite anxious to make my way back to my hotel and the wonderful infinity pool waiting for me.

After signing the guest book with my comments on the exhibition, I was finally free to exit and begin my return. Although, I didn’t quite understand the exhibition, I am glad that I was able to see something different in Accra. It’s not often that I am able to experience any kind of exhibition, much less those in a foreign city, but, I could see the pride in the eyes of the people running the show. They were anxious to share their work and the work of others. If giving up a short bit of my day helped out the local students, then definitely, I was happy that I accidentally stumbled upon this exhibit.

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Museum of Science and Technology

http://www.ghanamuseums.org/science-tech-museum.php
Address: Liberia Road, Accra
Hours: 0900-1630, daily
Admission: Cornfields in Accra exhibit, free. Regular exhibits, adult foreigners, GH¢ 10.00, Ghanaian adults GH¢ 2.00, Ghanaian students GH¢ .20-1.00, foreign children GH¢ 2.00

The Seeker of Independence

Walking down Barnes Road, toward the coast, on many occasions, to purchase local crafts at the Arts Market in Accra, I’ve noticed a large structure in a park-like setting. Checking a local map, I discovered it to be the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial, dedicated to the memory of the prominent Ghanaian leader Kwame Nkrumah.

Dr. Nkrumah, the former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, led Ghana to seek its independence fifty-nine years ago. Born on the country’s gold coast, he was educated in the United States, earning a Bachelor of Arts degree in economics and sociology in 1939, a Bachelor of Theology from Lincoln seminary, a Master of Arts degree in philosophy and a Master of Science in education from the University of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia. Upon his return to Ghana, he made brief stops in Sierra Leone, Liberia, and the Ivory Coast. He then started his political career by working for the colony’s first true political party, the United Gold Coast Convention in December of 1947. His first office, Leader of Government Business, eventually led to his appointment as prime minister. After Ghana’s independence in 1957, he was elected president, with his reign ending in 1966 when he was deposed. Going in to exile in Guinea, he was never to return to Ghana during his lifetime. Falling ill, he died in Bucharest, Romania in 1972, while seeking medical treatment. Buried in Guinea, where he was served as co-president, he was finally returned to Nkroful, Ghana, the village of his birth. The empty tomb, can still be found in Nkroful, however, Nkrumah’s remains were transferred to the large national memorial tomb in Accra.

Having an extra day on my most recent trip to Ghana, I decided to dedicate it to seeing more of what Accra has to offer. Since the Nkrumah monument was not far from the hotel, I decided to make it the focus of my day.

Arriving at the front of the property, there are no signs which direct you to the entrance. A security guard pointed me to an open gate and said that I was welcome to walk throughout the complex. After entering the grounds and being asked for my ticket at the museum, however, I was finally directed to an entrance gate on the far right side of the property, where I paid my admission fee.

The impressive structure that dominates the property is a mausoleum, designed by Don Aurthur and houses the bodies of Dr. Kwame Nkrumah, former prime minister and Ghana’s first president, and his wife Fathia Nkrumah.

When approaching the mausoleum from High Street, it is preceded by statues of bare-chested Ghanaian flute blowers and other musicians sitting in long fountains of water. The fountains were not operating, taking away from what I would imagine would be a beautiful sight. Directly in front of the mausoleum, is an impressive bronze statue of Kwame Nkrumah standing in the precise spot that he declared Ghana’s independence on March 6, 1957. The mausoleum is reached by concrete bridges on all four sides. The five acres of gardens surrounding the fountains and the mausoleum are alive with old and newly planted trees from dignitaries of other countries.

The mausoleum, built with Italian marble, represents an upside down sword, a symbol of peace in the Akan culture. The black star at the apex symbolizes unity and a skylight at the top of the Mausoleum illuminates the grave which is in the center of the mausoleum.

Another Nkrumah statue, behind the mausoleum, stands headless. Originally residing in front of the Old Parliament House, this statue was vandalized and de-headed during the February 24, 1966 military and police coup d’etat. The recovered head, which was presented by a patriotic citizen to the information service department, sits next to the statue.

A small museum is at the rear of the property. This museum, houses many of the personal items of Dr. Nkrumah as well as correspondence and photographs of his meetings with many important world dignitaries.

There is also a small gift shop at the rear right side and a refreshment stand on the left side of the property with some picnic tables.

The Memorial is interesting to visit and very educational for those unaware of Ghana’s history. Though needing a bit of upkeep, it is also a fitting tribute to a great man.

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Kwame Nkrumah Memorial and Mausoleum

Address: High Street, Accra, Ghana
Hours: unknown
Admission: 10 cedi

The Light and the Village

There isn’t a large list of tourist attractions and museums in the city limits of Accra. Venturing out to many places outside the city, I had only visited a couple of markets and one of the beaches within its boundaries.

Having read about the Jamestown lighthouse, I knew that it wasn’t very far from my hotel and maybe a cool place to get some pictures.

Hailing a cab outside the hotel was easy…getting the driver to understand where we were going was another story! A short drive later, we were in Osu, Accra’s downtown area. Realizing that he had not understood me, I finally had to show him a picture of the lighthouse on my phone. Another short drive and we were headed past my hotel again toward the coast and Jamestown.

Finding the brightly painted, red and white lighthouse locked, a woman finally appeared and informed us that she was the keeper of the structure. We each paid a 10 cedi entry fee and were allowed access to the interior. No longer functioning and in various states of disrepair, the lighthouse interior is not very impressive. After climbing the winding rickety stairs, however, we were rewarded with sweeping views of the coast, Fort St. James and the Jamestown fishing village directly below.

Quite windy at the top, it was a refreshing respite from the intense African heat. The walkway around the top felt sound although we tended to steer clear of the railing, unaware as to how often the lighthouse is inspected and maintained. We were able to see the light within the structure as it was still intact, although we were told it is inoperable.

Soon after our arrival at the the top of the structure, we were joined by a young Ghanaian man who introduced himself as Nice One. I was extremely skeptical of his offers to be our guide (for a donation) as we were already there and were really only interested in taking photos. Knowing full well how things sometimes work in Ghana, I continually rebuffed his offers, although he insisted on giving us the history of the lighthouse.

Built by the British in 1871 at James Fort, the lighthouse was replaced by the current structure in the 1930’s. Standing at 112 feet above sea level, it has a visibility of 16 nautical miles. It has stood tall and proud and been a part of the Jamestown community for many years.

Curious about the village below, I began to ask Nice One about the community and the seawall that extended adjacent to it. An extremely personable man, he answered my questions and eventually won over my trust. Speaking with my colleagues, we agreed to have him lead us on a tour of the adjacent fishing village.

Leading us down the road toward the village, he briefed us on village life and instructed us that if we wanted to take pictures, to ask him first. Without thinking, one of my coworkers lifted her camera to take a picture of a boat and was met with yells and cursing by some of the village men who thought that she was taking a picture of them. After a few minutes of fast-talking, Nice One thankfully seemed to calm them down and we were allowed to continue with our tour.

The villagers stayed mostly to themselves, but occasionally we were met with curious glances and more often than not, very suspicious glances. Everyone was busy with the tasks of the day. Racks of fish were drying and being smoked. Mountains of coconuts husks sat near bottles of coconut oils. Fish were being cooked on numerous grills. Some men were carving boats. Others, we could see out on the water, making their catch.

The children were very welcoming and we were able to snap some photos of them playing. We were then brought to the school where we were introduced to some of the children. A simple structure, the school had no walls, only a roof and a dirt floor, however, the teacher was quite proud to show us around.

As our tour came to an end, we decided upon a tip to Nice One of 20 cedi for his time showing us a side of Ghana that many are not fortunate to see. He walked us to the main road and insisted upon hailing a cab for us and gave me his phone number so that I could call if we needed anything.

Feeling quite fortunate to have things work out for our visit to the lighthouse, I do realize that many people may find themselves in an uncomfortable situation when visiting this area. Reading reviews by other travelers, I learned of those hassled by young men insisting that the entrance fee be paid to them or that they were the official tour guides for the light house. Others told tales of having knives pulled on them. Definitely not a place to be wandering alone, one should arrange for a tour prior to their arrival with official city tour guides or hope to find someone as reliable as Nice One, as we did. Never would I ever recommend to anyone to enter the Jamestown village on their own. The people are quite suspicious of outsiders and seem to resent tourists treating their town as a tourist attraction.

Fort Christiansburg — Fort Christiansborg

Additionally, the Fort Christiansborg, across the street from Jamestown fishing village, is often listed as an attraction on some travel sites, as it was the place that Kwame Nkrumah, Ghana’s first prime minister and president was held for three years beginning in 1950. The place has not been maintained and the fort is not open for visits.

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Jamestown Lighthouse

Cleland Road, Accra, Ghana
Hours: not published
Admission: varied

The Amazing Acropolis

High above Athens, the Acropolis keeps watch over the city.

The flat topped, steep and rocky hill is the home to the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, the Propylaia and the temple of Athena Nike. The Acropolis’ monuments have survived for almost twenty-five centuries through wars, explosions, bombardments, fires, earthquakes, sackings, interventions and altercations and still they stand after the multitude of changes that Greece has seen over time. The heart of the city, it still represents what it originally stood for, Democracy, Philosophy, Freedom of Expression and Speech and a place where people from all continents converge.

Having visited the Acropolis on many occasions, my original intent was to visit the Acropolis museum. After finding that photography is not allowed within the building, I decided to head to the Acropolis first, saving the museum for later when I would need a place to cool off from the heat of the day.

The line for entry was quite long, encompassing tourists from many countries, however the major shock was the difference in price from my last visit. Two years ago, the admission price was only 12€…today, the entry fee has jumped to 20€. Additionally, the price from two years ago, included all of the ancient sites, Dionussus Theater and the Southern slope, Temple of Zeus, Agora and Agora Museum, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos and Roman Agora and was valid for four days. Today, you must purchase a Multi-site ticket which covers the above attractions and costs 30€.

Making my way thru the gates, I headed up the winding path among the ruins that line the pathway, with a stop to rest and admire the theater of Herod Atticus, built by the Romans in 161 AD. The theater is still used today for classical concerts, ballet and performances of high cultural value. Further on is the Theater of Dionysious, the first stone theater and home to Sophocles, Aeschylus, Euripides and Aristophanes. Rebuilt around 342 BC it was then enlarged by the Romans for gladiator flights.

After the remaining climb, I found myself at the entrance, the Propylaea, dating back to 432 BC. A magnificent first view of your destination, it is also the point where the most excited tourists, stop to take group pictures and selfies. Navigating your way around these individuals proves to be challenging, especially on the smooth marble steps.

On your left is the Pinacotheca and a Hellenistic pedestal and on the right, the tiny temple to Nike Athena. The temple commemorates the Athenians victory over the Persians and sits on a platform overlooking the islands of the Saronic Gulf.

Walking out onto the plateau, that is the Acropolis, your first views are of the Parthenon on your right and the Erecthion on your left. The buildings of the Acropolis were built by Pericles in the fifth century BC and were considered the most sacred buildings and the safest part of the city. As little as 150 years ago, there were still dwellings on the Acropolis.

The Erecthion, my favorite part of the Acropolis, contains the porch of the maidens or Caryatids. These statues are copies as four of the original statues reside in the Acropolis museum and the fifth, in the British museum. The building sits on the most sacred site of the Acropolis where Poseidon and Athena had their contest over who would be the Patron of the city. Athena, declared the victor, had the great city named for her. The building itself is the real religious temple of the Acropolis, sitting on what was the northeast corner of what was the original temple. This temple was burned and destroyed by the Persians in 480 BC.

Take the time to walk around the Erecthion and inspect all side of this structure before continuing to the Parthenon. You can get some really nice photos when the sun is behind the building in the afternoon.

The Parthenon, still being taken apart and being put together from the wear and tear of centuries of exposure to the elements is encased in scaffolding, taking away from the full beauty of the building. Restoration has been going on for the past thirty years and will probably continue onward for an equal amount of time. That being said, impressive in scale and that which we associate the Acropolis with, it is an architectural marvel. Designed by Kallikrates and Iktinos as a tribute to the past and the achievements of the Ancient Athenians it was also erected to house a giant statue of Athena. It was also not a temple or place or worship as most people assume and used as a treasury to store the tribute paid by the other Greek city-states and a storage facility for Turkish gunpowder.

After making your way around the Parthenon, move over to the northeast corner of the Acropolis to where the mighty Greek flag flies high. Standing in this location you can see many landmarks including Mount Lycabettos, the National Gardens, the Plaka, Hadrian’s Arch, the Temple of Zeus and the Olympic stadium. On a clear day, you can also see the port of Pireaus and some of the islands beyond.

After making your way back to the Propylaea, consider an exit to the right to visit the rock of Areopagos. The location where St. Paul spoke to the people of Athens in AD 51, there is a tablet embedded in the stone that contains his words. Despite a very slippery climb, it offers a superb view of the Agora, the Plaka, Monastiraki, Omonia and much of Athens as well as a great place to watch the sunset. Continue onward down the hill toward the Agora and other parts of this fabulous, historic city.

Because I have visited the rock of Areopagos on a few other occasions, I decided to make my way back the way I had come and toward the Acropolis museum, my original destination. Passing the many artists that line Dioysiou Aeropagitou street, one caught my eye. Purchasing two paintings, it suddenly dawned on me that I would have to carry my prizes with me for the rest of the night. So…the museum or my hotel?

Big decision…the Acropolis museum would have to wait until another day…again.

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Acropolis

http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/gh351.jsp?obj_id=2384
Hours: 0800-2000, closed for some holidays
Admission: 20€
Getting There: Metro, Acropolis, then walk via Dionysiou Areopagitou Street. Metro, Monastiraki, then walk through the archaeological site of Ancient Agora, or Plaka district.

Crossing the Colorado

Continuing on my way from the Valley of Fire, I turned out of the park and headed toward Lake Mead, the largest reservoir in the United States. Measuring 112 miles long, when the lake is full, it offers 759 miles of shoreline and brilliant clear blue water. Stopping on numerous occasions along the way to admire the view, I paid no attention to the time, but instead to the breathtaking vistas before me.

An hour’s drive later, I soon came to the checkpoint for Hoover Dam. After passing through the secured area, I proceeded to the dam parking lot, located nearest the visitor’s center.

Being that it was the end of the day, the Visitor Center was closed, however, having done the tour on a few occasions, I was more interested in seeing the exterior of the dam and the interesting views it provides.

Walking along the top of the dam, I crossed over to the Arizona side (neglecting to change my watch!) and back again, stopping to photograph both the Colorado River side as well as Lake Mead. Looking up to the arched Mike O’Callaghan–Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge, which crosses the Colorado River, I could see people standing and walking along the bridge. Realizing that the parking lot I had passed on the way to the dam, contained a trail up the the bridge, I decided to head that way.

Spanning the gap of Black Canyon, the bridge connects Arizona and Nevada, creating a faster route across the river. Open to traffic, it has a sidewalk for visitors who wish to gain a better view of Hoover Dam as well as an interpretive plaza. While under construction, the bridge was referred to as the Hoover Dam Bypass, however, the name was changed to honor the former governor of Nevada, Mike O’Callaghan and Pat Tillman the former professional football player killed in Afghanistan in 2004.

Parking in the lot, near the winding concrete walkway, I joined the hoards of tourists heading to the top of pathway. Heading to the middle of the bridge for the best view, I captured some photos amidst the windy conditions and then made my way back to solid ground. Not normally afraid of heights, I must admit, the dizzying height of the structure, made me a little nervous.

With nightfall nearing, I decided that my adventurous day was coming to a close. Reflecting on my day, which started with uncertainty, I had quickly shifted gears and made the most of my day. Life gave me lemons that morning, but my decision to rent the car was most definitely my lemonade!

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Lake Mead

https://www.nps.gov/lake/index.htm

Hoover Dam

http://www.usbr.gov/lc/hooverdam/
Parking Garage: Open 8:00 a.m. — Close 5:15 p.m. Parking fee: $10.00. Oversized vehicles, recreational vehicles, and vehicles with trailers must use the parking lots on the Arizona side of the dam.
Visitor Center: Open 9:00 a.m. — Close 5:00 p.m. (Tickets must be purchased by 4:15 p.m. for access)
Tours/Tickets: Hours of Operations: First Powerplant Tour departs at 9:25 a.m.
Last Powerplant Tour departs at 3:55 p.m. First Dam Tour departs at 9:30 a.m.
Last Dam Tour departs at 3:30 p.m. Dam Tours (limited to 20 people per tour) may sell-out a couple hours in advance of the last tour. Last Visitor Center ticket is sold at 4:15 p.m. (Tickets sold from 3:45-4:15 p.m. are for Visitor Center admission only.
Getting There: The dam is located 30 miles southeast of Las Vegas. Take US Highway 93 to Nevada State Route 172. The dam is on the Nevada-Arizona border.
Mike O’Callaghan–Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge
http://www.desertusa.com/desert-activity/hoover-dam-bridge.html

Venture to the Valley of Fire

Having just experienced Hoover Dam by air, my expectations were high as I aimed to set my kayak into the Colorado River’s waters and paddle on from the base of this mighty levee.

Last year, while in Las Vegas, tired of the crowds, I decided that it would be refreshing to get out of the city and experience some of the outdoor activities located nearby. Deciding to book a kayaking tour on the Colorado, I opted for a 12 mile paddle starting at the base of Hoover Dam. Two hours too late, I was unable to do so as permits need to be secured for this particular tour at least 24 hours in advance. Agreeing to take the 6 mile paddle that departed later in the day was a good substitution and I thoroughly enjoyed my trip. All year, however, I contemplated what I missed, promising myself…next year!

This year, immediately after my arrival, my reservation was made to kayak on my last full day in Las Vegas. Instead of a confirmation email, however, a phone call informed me that I was the only person booked for that day. Needless to say, the tour would not go out with only one person, however, the guides were optimistic that they could hold out and certainly get more bookings before the permit deadline. Unfortunately, it was not meant to be and I was moved to the 6 mile paddle once again. Anxious to get out of the city, I reluctantly agreed.

Early that morning, I was packed and ready to go on my day’s journey.

Water shoes…check. Sunscreen…check. Sunglasses…check. Camera…check.

All that was needed was the tour company’s van, curbside, so we could be on our way. Van after van, came by until finally I noticed the one for me. Jumping in, I made myself comfortable and said hello to the others. The driver started up the van but then shifted back into park, informing us that she needed to call her boss. A few minutes passed and I was startled by the opening of the van’s door next to me.

“I’ve been informed that the bridge we need to cross has been closed down since six o’clock this morning. The police are trying to talk a jumper down. The traffic is backed up so severely that we will never make it in time. I’m so sorry, but the tour is cancelled for today.”

Okay, I was still half asleep…but…what did she say???

Slowly, I made my way back upstairs to my room. Now what? I usually always have a plan B, C and D in place…but not today.

Rifling through the Las Vegas magazine I found a few ideas. Las Vegas Eye? Too expensive. Titanic Exhibition? No pictures allowed. Making a few phone calls got me nowhere as most things were booked for the day. Suddenly it dawned on me…a rental car! I would be free to do whatever I could find…on or off the Strip. Quickly, I ran downstairs and secured one of the last cars available…a compact Nissan Versa.

But where was I going?

Turning out of the parking garage, I drove out toward the highway, not exactly sure where I was headed. In and Out Burger for an early lunch? Freemont Street? Lake Mead?

On two previous occasions, I had visited the Valley of Fire, Nevada’s oldest state park, located about an hour outside of Las Vegas. Both times, accompanied by numerous individuals, I was not able to see it the way that I wanted to. This time could be different. No little people telling me, “We’re tired of looking at rocks!” No business associates saying, “Let’s skip that part and just say we saw it”. Yes…it could be different seeing it my way…

An hour later, I was driving into the Valley of Fire State Park, handing over my $10 entry fee and trying to decipher the park map. Absolutely, lots to see and do!

Driving into the park, the beautifully eroded sandstone formations grew more and more plentiful as my journey progressed. Finally, the first few stops on the map grew near, the Beehives, Atlatl Rock, Arch Rock and the Petrified Logs. Each of these attractions beautiful and unique, I stopped, exited my car, snapping lots of pictures, even taking the short hike out to the petrified logs, (though the extreme temperature made me realize that I was going to need much more water).

Next, a stop to the Visitor’s Center was in order. The perfect place to cool off and replenish your water supply, exhibits on the geology, ecology, prehistory and history of the Valley of Fire are also presented. A small gift shop also offers snacks, postcards and souvenirs.

The next part of my drive, took me north to what is considered the most scenic part of the park. Time after time, I pulled over to the shoulder to take picture after picture. Truly, it is a place of unbelievable beauty.

My first stop on the northern road was a 1/2 mile trail, called Mouse Tank that I have hiked in the past. The first time we ventured out on this route, we were a bit unprepared, wearing sandals and not carrying water. A few years ago, we attempted it again with my children, so I was a bit familiar with it and thought that I could tackle it solo, even with the 113 degree temperatures.

The trail is extremely sandy, making it quite hard to walk at times and it filled my tennis shoes. Trying to stay on the rocky areas that line the trail, I made my way through the canyon marveling at the petroglyphs that mark the red walls and occasionally ducking into the rare areas of shade. A short time later, I reached the end of the trail and what gives it its name…the Mouse Tank, an area in the rocks which collects water and amazingly does not evaporate. Legend has it that a renegade Indian named Mouse hid out in this canyon and this water supply helped him in his survival.

Exiting the Mouse Tank trail, I sat in my car turning the air conditioning on high, drinking lots of water and resting for a minute before continuing on my way.

The next two stops were Rainbow Vista and Fire Canyon/Silica Dome. Both stops offer colorful panoramas and amazing photo opportunities. Continuing on my way to the end of the line, I finally reached the White Domes. Though not up for another hike, this would be one that I would consider in the future. This one-mile hike offer brilliant contrasting colors, sweeping desert vistas and caves and has been the location of many movies. While I was there, a photo shoot was in progress and I felt sorry for the models, trying to pose beautifully while sweating profusely!

Making my way back to the main road, I turned and headed toward the East Entrance/Exit. The seven tall, eroded boulders called The Seven Sisters was my next stop followed by the Cabins. These picturesque and historic sandstone structures were built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930’s for travelers. No overnight stays are allowed with the area now serving as a popular picnic area.

The Clark Memorial, the last point of interest on the map, is a simple white cross situated on a white brick base, sitting alone in the desert and visible from the main road. It pays tribute to John J. Clark, a Civil War veteran. Honorably discharged, he was enroute to Salt Lake City, traveling in a buckboard when he stopped in the Valley of Fire. Not finding water, he crawled under his carriage and died, presumably from thirst, before his body was found in 1915.

One last hike can be made from the East Entrance/Exit point, called Elephant Rock; however, I decided that it could wait until another visit. Although it was later in the day, many people were making their way into the park and I would imagine that cooler temperatures and a setting sun offer a much different experience that what can be offered during the midpoint of the day.

However, sunset still being sometime away, I decided that I wasn’t very far from Hoover Dam…

To be continued…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Valley of Fire

http://www.valley-of-fire.com/
29450 Valley of Fire Road, Overton, Nevada 89040
Hours: Open year round from dawn to dusk
Admission: Entrance $10/vehicle ($8/vehicle Nevada resident) at fee station or self-pay booth. Camping $20/night plus $10/night for utility hook-ups ($2/night discount Nevada resident). Annual Entrance Permit $75.
Visitors Center: Open 0830-1630 daily, except Christmas.
Getting There: Located about 58 miles from the Las Vegas Strip in the Mojave Desert. From the Las Vegas Strip: Take the I-15 North approximately 35-40 miles. Take Exit 75 and head east toward Valley of Fire/Lake Mead. Drive approximately 17 miles on Valley of Fire to the West Entrance Station. Scenic Route along Lake Mead: Take the I-15 North to Lake Mead Blvd. Turn Right and head East to Lakeshore Road (NV-166). Turn Right onto Northshore Drive (NV-167) and follow Northshore to the east entrance to Valley of Fire.

Grand Canyon By Air

Sometimes we have to see things in a different way.

Years ago, we made the cross country trek to visit the Grand Canyon with our children. Driving from Phoenix to the southern rim, we joined the hoards of spring breakers entering the park to get a glimpse of the mammoth gorge. Although we did not enter the canyon, we did see it from the many overlooks, peering down into its depths. Watching the countless hikers begin their slow descent on the paths leading to the bottom and the many planes flying overhead, I promised myself that one day I would return and see it again from both its lowest point as well as from the air.

Learning from a co-worker that we are able to make a stand-by reservation with Grand Canyon Scenic Airlines for a flight over the Grand Canyon, I quickly reserved a spot for the next morning, although it meant a 4:00 a.m. wake-up call.

Picked up promptly, at 5:00 a.m., I was shuttled over to Boulder City for my check-in. Keeping my fingers crossed that there would be at least one seat for me, I gave my information to the agent and was instructed to make myself comfortable and wait for my name to be called. Thankfully, about 20 minutes later, I heard my name over the loudspeaker and quickly walked over to the desk. YES! One seat remaining and it was all mine!

Shortly after, our young pilot gathered our group together and ushered us out to our waiting airplane. Since someone was needed to sit up front next to the pilot, I volunteered as the rest of the group were traveling in pairs or groups. Being a flight attendant, I felt so right at home, sitting up front with the pilot, that almost felt like I should be making coffee and passing out nuts!

We made the quick taxi and soon were speeding up the runway for our takeoff.

Up we went, soaring over the barren landscape, until finally, our pilot informed us, over our headsets, that Hoover Dam was up ahead. After a couple of turns so that everyone could have a decent view, we sped forward, over Lake Mead and the mountainous landscape. Before long, our destination was in view.

It was an extremely soothing ride as we admired the sweeping scenes of the Grand Canyon’s West Rim. With the early morning sun, there were many shadows and I could only imagine that the multitude of colors of the canyon, as well as the view, would vastly change as the day went on. The vista, however, was spectacular as we flew just above the highest points of the canyon, including Imperial Point, the canyon’s highest spire. The Colorado river was visible flowing throughout the canyon with its hairpin turns and rapids visible. We even spotted river rafters beginning their day’s journey.

Before long, however, our Vistaliner aircraft was making the journey back to Boulder City and setting down at the terminal’s runway. A quick forty minute ride back to my hotel and I was walking back into my room, ready for the what the rest of the day would bring.

Although, I was able to receive an extremely steep discount for this tour, this company does list this tour as one of their affordable options. With transportation to and from Las Vegas hotels, I do think that this tour is perfect for those wanting to see the Grand Canyon, yet not wanting to spend a lot of time doing so. There are many other options available, as add-ons and as tour packages, including deplaning at the Grand Canyon and taking a bus into the park, visiting an Indian reservation and white water rafting.

When I returned, one of my husband’s co-workers inquired as to whether I would I do this tour again. Four hours with transportation included, a smooth 45 minute air tour with God’s beauty beneath you and wonderful people running the show…I would say it is well worth the price!

Now, if I can only get a discount on a pack mule to take me to the bottom…

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Grand Canyon Scenic Tours

http://www.grandcanyonairlines.com/tours/grand-discovery-air-tour

The Lost Lights

Remember the Sands Hotel? The Stardust? The Golden Nugget? The old neon signs?

Well, I certainly miss the old Vegas. I miss the $1.99 breakfasts and the $5.99 steak dinners. I miss playing roulette for fifty cents. I miss all of the old casinos with their beautiful neon signs that decorated the strip. Everything is now new, commercialized and quite expensive. Vegas is still fun, but in a different way.

Having heard about the Neon Museum some time ago, it has been my desire to visit this place so that I could reminiscence about the Vegas I remember. Since visits are by guided tour, only a set number of guests are allowed each day and evening, therefore, tickets are hard to come by, usually sold out weeks in advance.

This year, finally remembering to purchase tickets to the Neon Museum, we selected an 8:30 a.m. entrance to avoid the heat of the day. My husband and I, realizing what a lengthy trek is was to reach the venue, then investigated all avenues of transportation, finally deciding to rent a car for the day.

Our arrival at the museum was met by 98 degree temperatures and we quickly ducked into the lobby to collect our tickets and await our tour. The waiting area, a unique space, once the La Concha Motel lobby, showcases the original sign from the motel, acts as a visitor’s center and offers a multitude of souvenirs as well as a machine to send an email postcard.

Upon the appearance of our guide, we were ushered into the outdoor courtyard to begin our tour which commenced with the presentation of the history of the museum and history of the city. As we were ushered past the first sign in the collection, we ventured into the Neon Boneyard which houses the main outdoor exhibition space for the remainder of the signs. The abundance of signs here is staggering.

As the tour guide navigates you through the collection (some restored, some in their original condition), unique stories about the personalities who created them, inspired them, when and where they were made and roles that these signs played in Las Vegas’ history are presented. Much time is allowed for photographs, however, visitors are instructed that their captured images may only be for personal use.

Founded in 1996, the Neon Museum, a non-profit organization, has dedicated itself to collecting, preserving, studying and exhibiting these iconic Las Vegas signs. The museum also chronicles changes and trends in sign design and technology through pieces ranging from the 1930’s to the present day.

Night tours are offered, with the museum lighting seven of the collection’s signs and the remainder illuminated by spotlight. Although I had originally wished to tour the museum in the darkened hours, I was happy to see the collection during the daylight which enhanced the abundance of beautiful colors. Eventually, I would like to re-visit the museum and see the signs illuminated…that, in addition to a different tour guide’s narratives, would be like a wholly different tour.

Having been to Vegas close to fifty times over the years, I can say, without a doubt, this was one of my most favorite things that I have ever done in the desert city. Worth every penny for the tour and the rental car, my husband and I considered it a fabulous way to spend part of our day!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Neon Museum

http://www.neonmuseum.org/
Address: 770 N Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas, NV 89101
Hours: 0800-2000 daily. Closed New Year’s Day, Fourth of July, Thanksgiving and Christmas
Admission: Day tours, $18 general admission, $12 seniors 65+, students, active military, veterans and Nevada residents.
Admission: Night tours, $25 general admission, $22 seniors 65+, students, active military, veterans and Nevada residents.
Parking for museum guests is free and located adjacent to the museum off of McWilliams Ave.
Tours are subject to inclement weather, such as high winds over 25mps or lightning.
Useful Information: No backpacks, camera bags, large bags, additional camera lenses, monopods, selfie sticks or tripods are allowed on tours. No alcohol. No weapons. Service animals only are allowed. Closed-toe shoes are recommended. Visitors must remain with their guide at all times. No smoking, electronic cigarettes, chewing tobacco or snuff allowed. Museum-appropriate attire required. Guests arriving more than 20 minutes late may forfeit tour.