churches – Page 3 – Snapping The Globe

The Castle on the Hill

When someone finds themselves in Prague for the very first time, no doubt, they will be drawn to the Prague Castle. A showpiece of the city, it is perched above the Lesser Town (Mala Strana) in the Castle District and keeps a watchful eye on the activities of the city.

One of the largest castle complexes in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site, it was founded in the 9th century by Prince Bořivoj of the Premyslid Dynasty. Consisting of numerous palaces and ecclesiastical buildings of various architectural styles, the castle is the official residence of the President of the Czech Republic. Once a seat of power for kings of Bohemia, Holy Roman emperors and presidents of Czechoslovakia, it is one of the primary tourist attractions of the city.

Up early and heading on the subway towards the Castle, we were excited for all that there was to experience in the complex. On previous visits, I had been on the Castle grounds but had never visited any of the major buildings. Exiting the Malostranska metro station, we decided to make the long steady climb to the castle rather than connect to the tram so that we could experience the beautiful views of the city along the way as well as encounter the Karel Hasler statue and the usual accompanying guitarist.

Once inside the complex, finding where to purchase tickets was a bit perplexing. Entering the Old Royal Palace, I finally discovered a ticket window. Many different attraction combinations are offered and we decided on Option B, the most popular option (according to the ticket seller) which included the Royal Palace and Vladislav Hall, St. Vitus Cathedral, Basilica of St. George and Golden Lane. After our tickets were purchased and we were waiting to enter Vladislav Hall within the palace, I noticed that now familiar sign…the one with the camera and a slash through it. Oh no! Not again! However, after reading a little further, I found that pictures were allowed with a permit that could also be purchased at the ticket window.

Entering Vladislav Hall, we were impressed with the size of the structure as well as the arch-ribbed vaulting of the ceiling, the large Italian Renaissance windows and the five bronze 16th century Renaissance chandeliers. Originally designed to serve as a throne hall, it was the largest hall in medieval Prague and one of the largest halls in Central Europe. Built in the Late Gothic Style with some Early Renaissance features, the exact dates of construction are not clear. Used for banquets, councils, coronations and indoor jousting tournaments, one of the most notable features is the Rider’s Staircase on the northern side which was designed to receive a knight on horseback.

One of the oldest parts of the Prague Castle, the Old Royal Palace dates back to 1135. Moving from Vladislav Hall in the southwestern corner into the former offices of the Bohemian Chancellery, you find the room where Protestant nobles, rebelling against the Bohemian estates and the emperor, threw two of the emperor’s counselors and their secretary out of the window, which sparked the Thirty Years’ War.

At the eastern end of the hall, steps lead up to a balcony that overlooks All Saints’ Chapel. Another doorway, leads to the Assembly Hall, which contains replicas of the Bohemian crown jewels. A spiral staircase leads to the New Land Rolls Room, the repository for land titles, where the walls are covered with the clerks’ coats of arms.

A couple of the most interesting stories about the castle pertain to the procurement of the castle by Nazi Germany in 1939. When President Emil Hacha was forced to hand the Czech nation over to the Germans, Adolf Hitler spent a night in the castle gloating over his new acquisition. During the Nazi occupation in World War II, the castle became the headquarters of Reinhard Heydrich, the “Reich Protector of Bohemia and Moravia”. Placing the Bohemian crown on his own head, he was doomed according to legend, which states that if a despot places the crown on his head, he is doomed to die within a year. Less than a year after assuming power, he was attacked by British-trained Slovak and Czech soldiers while on his way to the castle and died of his wounds.

The Old Royal Palace was very interesting and filled with history. The old saying, “If the walls could talk”, is definitely true here as many historical events have taken place on the premises.

Moving on from the Old Royal Palace, we decided to backtrack from the Palace towards our original entry point, to Golden Lane, the 15th century, old world street within the complex. Originally known as Goldsmith’s Lane for the many goldsmiths that resided there, it was created when a new outer wall was added to the existing complex.

Once when visiting the castle grounds, I was able to quickly walk through Golden Lane at the end of the day when the grounds were closing, but unable to catch more than a glimpse of the old world buildings. This time, we were able to visit each of the eleven historic houses that contain period scenes that depict the life of the artisans who worked and lived in the structures.

In the upper level of the houses, a medieval armory is showcased with a multitude of suits of armor and weapons. Cannons are also displayed in the courtyard at the entry area of the lane.

After our visit to Golden Lane was complete and we headed back toward the center of the complex, we decided to duck into St. George’s Basilica, while there was no line. The oldest surviving church building within the complex and the second oldest in Prague, the basilica was founded by Vratislaus I of Bohemia in 920. Rebuilt after being destroyed by fire in 1142, the present facade, with its twin white towers than can been seen throughout the city, was added between the years of 1671 and 1691. The basilica holds the tomb of saint Ludmila of Bohemia as well as shrines of Vratislav and Boleslaus II of Bohemia. It also serves as a concert hall.

Our next and final visit was to the imposing Gothic structure of St. Vitus’ Cathedral. To many people, the Prague Castle is St. Vitus Cathedral as it is what dominates the skyline. Known primarily as St. Vitus Cathedral, it is also dedicated to Saints Wenceslas and Adalbert.

The largest and most important church in the country, St. Vitus was founded on November 21, 1344. Taking almost six centuries to complete, it was damaged by a great fire in 1541 and its final phase of construction took place between 1873 and 1929.

The line to enter St. Vitus was extremely long and was hampered by the security measures employed at the entrance. After an hour’s wait, we were finally able enter the cathedral.

As we walked throughout the interior, we stood among the massive pillars supporting the magnificent vaulted ceiling and were impressed by the side chapels and the beautiful stained glass windows, most notably one designed by Mucha, installed in the north nave in 1931. The window, portrays St. Wenceslas, as a boy, with his grandmother, St. Ludmila, surrounded by episodes from the lives of Saints Cyril and Methodius who spread Christianity among the Slavs. The image of Slavia is also included below Christ.

The extraordinary cathedral has overseen the coronation of Czech kings and queens and contains the tombs of many Bohemian kings and Holy Roman Emperors. In the chancel of the cathedral, in front of the high alter, is the royal mausoleum. Below this, the royal crypt accommodates the royal tombs. Czech kings and queens, archbishops and patron saints of the country are interred here, most importantly, St. John of Nepomuk and King Charles IV.

The most exceptional part of the cathedral is St. Wenceslas Chapel, built between 1344 and 1364 and is where the relics of the saint are kept. The lower part of the walls are decorated with over 1300 semi-precious stones and frescoes of the Passion of Christ. The upper walls’ paintings depict the life of St. Wenceslas and a Gothic statue of St. Wenceslas stands in the middle of the wall. The chapel is not open to the public, but it can be viewed from two doorways. It is also here that the priceless Bohemian coronation jewels, the fourth oldest in Europe, are stored behind a small door secured by seven locks. The Czech Crown Jewels are only displayed to the public once every eight years, however, the replicas can be seen in the Old Royal Palace.

Religious services in the Cathedral can be attended daily and confessions are heard twice a week.

After visiting all of the attractions included in our ticket, we were free to wander the grounds of the castle. There are many other parts of the castle to visit, including the gardens, St. George’s convent and the National Gallery, the exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, the Powder Tower, the Toy Museum and the picture gallery of Prague Castle. One of the most memorable things to take in is the changing of the guard which takes place hourly on the hour with the midday ceremony including a fanfare & banner exchange.

No visit to the Czech capital is complete without a visit to the Prague Castle. Whether you decide to walk the grounds or purchase a ticket and visit one of the many historical buildings within the grounds, you will not be disappointed with all that there is to offer.

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The Prague Castle

https://www.hrad.cz/
Address: Prague Castle, Castle District, Prague 1, Czech Republic
Admission Information: https://www.hrad.cz/en/prague-castle-for-visitors/tickets
Ticket Type: Prague Castle – Circuit A, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower, Powder Tower
Ticket Type: Prague Castle – Circuit B, Adults, 250CZK, Students 125CZK, Family 500CZK
St. Vitus Cathedral, Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower
Prague Castle – Circuit C, Adults 350CZK, Students 175CZK, Family 700CZK
Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Exhibition “The Story of Prague Castle”, Adults 140CZK, Students 70CZK, Family 280CZK
Exhibition “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral”, Adults 300CZK, Students 150CZK, Family 600CZK
Prague Castle Picture Gallery, Adults 100CZK, Students 50CZK, Family 200CZK
Powder Tower – Exhibition of the Castle Guard, Adults 70CZK, Students 40CZK, Family 140CZK
Great South Tower with a View Gallery, Adults 150CZK
Note: Tickets are valid for two consecutive days.
Photography Permit, 50CZK, photography allowed without flash and tripod, prohibited in exhibitions “The Story of Prague Castle”, “The Treasure of St. Vitus Cathedral” and in Prague Castle Picture Gallery
Hours: Prague Castle Complex, daily 0600-2200, Historical buildings, April 1-October 31, 0900-1700, November 1-March 31, 0900-1600, Prague Castle Gardens, April & October, 1000-1800, May & September, 1000-1900, June & July 1000-2100, August, 1000-2000, Changing of the Guard, April-October, hourly on the hour, 0700-2000, November-March, hourly on the hour, 0700-1800
St. Vitus Cathedral Masses: Sunday Mass, 0830 (celebrated in Latin every last Sunday of the month), Sunday Vespers, 1700 (not during July-September), Monday-Thursday Mass, 0700, Friday Masses, 0700 and 1800, Saturday Mass, 0700, Confessions (Czech and English) Sunday, 0930-1000 and Friday, 1730-1750.
Getting There: Metro station: Malostranska (line A), then take tram 22 to Prazsky hrad (shortest route). You can also walk the many steps uphill from Malostranska.

The Marble Church

Above most rooftops of Copenhagen, in the elegant area of Frederiksstaden, you can see the copper green dome of the Marble Church. Impressively beautiful and near the Amalienborg Castle and The Opera, the Marble Church (or the Frederik’s Church, its official name) is one most tourists aspire to visit on a trip to the Danish city.

Having walked past this Lutheran church a few times before, I had never set foot inside its doorways. Currently, lots of construction behind and adjacent to the church takes away from its impressive facade, however, when stepping inside, you are struck by the awe-inspiring massive dome…the largest dome in Scandinavia…with a span of almost 102 feet and decorated with a painting of the twelve apostles. Though not as large, this dome was supposedly inspired by the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

In 1749, King Frederik V decided to build a church to honor God, the absolute monarchy and the royal house of Oldenborg celebrating the tercentenary of ruling the Country. The church and town were named after him and together with his leading court architect, Nicolai Eigtved, they embarked on the monumental project.

The foundation stone was laid October 30, 1749 and a mighty domed church was planned. Finances were limited but the King refused to cut back on materials, thus slowing progress. Large solid blocks of marble from eastern Norway were used to build the walls of the church, furthermore, increasing costs.

After the deaths of Eigtved in 1754 and King Frederik V in 1766, Frederik’s son, King Christian VII decided to suspend the project. No progress was made for 100 years with the walls, at barely a height of 60 feet. Although the site was deemed a ruin, it was a popular motif for many artists. Eventually, banker and financier C.F. Tietgen took over the project in 1874. The rebuilding started later that year under architect Ferdinand Meldahl and was finally completed, after 20 additional years of construction, on August 19, 1894.

One of the highlights of most Copenhagen tours, be sure to expect busloads of tourists to be on site. If you can dodge the hoards, however, be sure to take in the 14 bronze statues of prominent Danish Church Fathers that surround the church (with present construction, hard to see all). On the balustrade around the dome are sculptures in zinc of 18 historical figures from the bible…prophets and apostles, in addition to Martin Luther, the founder of Reformation. On the interior, note the motifs from the 42nd Psalm that flank the altar and observe the the church’s two organs. The oldest, referred to as the Swan Organ, is no longer in use, however, the newer Marcussen organ is currently being used during services (and was being tested while I was visiting). In the front chapel, take in the woodcarvings depicting the Deposition.

A most beautiful and historic church, that is well worth a visit while in Copenhagen, will take, at most, about a half hour to visit (unless taking the Dome Tour). It can be combined with a visit to Amalienborg Palace and countless other attractions in the area.

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The Marble Church

http://www.marmorkirken.dk/
Address: Frederiksgade 4, 1265 København K
Admission: free
Hours: Monday-Thursday and Saturday 1000-1700. Friday and Saturday, 1200-1700.
Dome Tours, Saturday and Sunday 1300 and 1500 and weekdays at 1300 from June 15-August 31. Admission for dome tours, Adults, 35 DKK, Children (under 18), 20 DKK.
Getting There: Bus, 1A, 15, 20E. Distance from Town Hall Square, 5 km, about 20-30 min walk.

St. Paul’s Outside the Walls

St. Peters

St. John the Lateran

St. Mary Major

St. Paul’s Outside the Walls

Of the four major basilicas in Rome, I had been to three. It was time to venture a little out of the city center in search of the latter.

Strangely, I had never heard of St. Paul’s Outside the Walls. While reading a thread about the bus system in Rome, I came across the name from someone seeking travel instructions. This basilica, while occupying land in Italian territory, is not within the territory of the Vatican City State as are the other three. Located outside the Aurelian walls of Rome, hence its name, the Holy See fully owns the Basilica, however, Italy is legally obligated to recognize the Vatican’s full ownership.

Getting to St. Paul’s is not extremely difficult. Discovering that the basilica is adjacent to a metro stop of the same name, I decided that taking the metro would be the easiest way to travel. Arriving at the station of Basilica San Paolo, the dome of the basilica was easily spotted. Following a group of nuns past the clock tower ensured I was on the right path!

Arriving at the entrance on the west side of the basilica, I was shocked to see something I would only expect at St. Peter’s…a long line waiting to go through security. The line was not very organized and much too wide. People were busy talking and not moving forward, while others were walking up the sides of the line and moving ahead. After a twenty minute wait, I finally made my way up and past security.

There are many things that set this basilica apart from the others. When entering the structure, the lovely columns that line the front of building enclose a remarkable courtyard. Until you reach the center, you don’t quite see the beauty of the basilica’s gold front facade with the detailed mosaics that catch the sunlight. In the courtyard stands an imposing statue of the apostle Paul amidst an impeccably maintained garden .

Interesting to note is that this courtyard and facade as well as many things within the church were all added in the nineteenth century. Of all the churches in Rome, this particular one had preserved it primitive character for 1,435 years until it was destroyed by fire in 1823. Eager to see the basilica rebuilt, the world contributed to its restoration; the Viceroy of Egypt sent pillars of alabaster and the Emperor of Russia, malachite and lapis lazuli for the tabernacle. The Italian government ensured that work on the principle facade, looking toward the Tiber, was completed and declared the church a national monument.

Walking up to the basilica, a central bronze door, with inlaid silver, is the focal point. It was created in 1930 by Antonio Maraini, after the original, a gift from Pope Gregory VII in 1070, was damaged by the fire. (The original, can be seen, restored, on the inside of the basilica). The reliefs on the door present scenes from the lives of Saints Peter and Paul. More importantly, this door is flanked on the right by one of the four Holy Doors in Rome, as declared by the Vatican. The Holy Door is only opened during Jubilee years by the Pope (once every twenty-five years).

When entering the church, you are overcome by the vastness of the space only broken by the four rows of twenty granite columns that separate the central nave from its aisles. The original columns of the church before the fire had been taken from ancient Roman temples and were unable to be salvaged.

Most interesting are the circular paintings of the popes that line the space, something not seen in the other basilicas. Most of these paintings were damaged by the fire and restored, but some of the inscriptions have been eternally lost. The pictures begin with St. Peter to the present pope, Francis. Very few spaces remain and legend has it that when these spaces are filled, a major event will occur.

Walking farther into the basilica, you will find a recessed area with circular stairways leading down on either side. Here you will find the surviving links of the chain, on a silk background, that according to tradition, held St. Paul while he was a prisoner in Rome between 61 and 63 AD. These chains are illuminated and displayed in a case near his tomb which is located under the altar.

Near the front of the altar area, take note of the carved Pachal candle which stands more than 16 feet high and was made in the 12th century by Nichola dell’Angelo and Pietro Vassalletto.

At the rear of the church are the chapels, the Blessed Sacrament Chapel, the Chapel of Saint Benedict, the Chapel of St. Laurence and the Chapel of St. Stephen. Above the Tabernacle in the Blessed Sacrament Chapel hangs a magnificent crucifix sculpted by Pierre Cavallini. This is the crucifix of which Christ turned his head toward St. Bridget of Sweden and gave her the “15 Prayers of St. Bridget”.

While in the apse, take a look upward at the only remaining part of the medieval basilica, the 13th century mosaic, created by Venetian artists. This breathtaking mosaic, ordered by Pope Honorius III, depicts Christ on a throne flanked by the Apostles Peter, Paul, Andrew and Luke.

At the end of the right transept is the entrance to the cloisters and the Chapel of Relics. An entrance fee is required to enter, but worth every penny to see the cloisters with their graceful, twisted mosaics-filled columns that line the arcades. These cloisters, built between 1208 and 1235 by the Vassalletti family, were untouched by the fire of 1823 and have often been described as the most beautiful in Rome. The walls of the walks are lined with ancient sculpture and epigraphy recovered in excavations, mostly during the rebuilding of the church. In the center of the cloisters is a rose garden. This area was relatively empty during my visit, allowing me to enjoy the peace and solitude which should accompany an area of that nature. The Chapel of the Relics is worth only a quick visit now that the Chains of St. Paul are displayed within the church.

After exiting the church, a visit to the well-outfitted gift shop offers not only rosaries and other religious objects, but bottles of wine made by the Benedictine monks (not sold on Sundays or religious holidays). You can also stop in to the cafe, next to the gift shop, for a snack or drink.

If visiting all four basilicas on your trip to Rome is a priority, then a trip to St. Paul’s Basilica is in order. Many things set this particular basilica apart from the others in the city and certainly warrant visitation. Although a little farther than the other attractions of the great city of Rome, it is not extremely difficult to reach and worth the extra effort to mark St. Paul’s off of your “church bucket list”.

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Basilica de San Paolo

http://www.basilicasanpaolo.org/
Piazzale San Paolo, 1, 00146 Roma
Admission: Basilica entrance, free. Cloister, €3.00
Hours: Basilica, Daily, 0700-1830, Cloister, 0830-1815
Getting There: Metro, Line B, stop, Basilica San Paolo. Bus, Number 23 (Pincherle-Parravano), stop, Ostiense-S. Paolo

Padua or Padova? How Do You Say It?

Crowds? I hate them!

As much as I love experiencing warm weather in Venice, the one thing that keeps me away is the large number of tourists that descend upon the city during the summer months. Some go to see the beautiful canals and architecture, some for the delectable Italian fare and many go, as it is the starting point for their cruise adventure. No matter what their reason, they crowd the narrow streets and the attractions making it difficult to enjoy the city intimately. Sometimes, I avoid Venice altogether during June, July and August. Sometimes, I travel there only during the off-season, coat in hand. Sometimes I grin and bear it. Sometimes…I find an escape.

There are many lovely cities near Venice that are easily reached by train or bus. One such city, Padova, is a quick train ride from the city and a nice respite from the summer madness.

Padova, located about 25 miles west of Venice, claims to be the oldest city in northern Italy. Standing on the Bacchiglione River, which surrounds the city like a moat, it hosts the University of Padova, founded in 1222, where Galileo Galilei was a lecturer and was the setting for most of the action in Shakespeare’s “The Taming of the Shrew”.

Many are confused by the different spellings of the city’s name, Padova and Padua…simply put, Padova is the Italian spelling and Padua, the English.

An extremely picturesque city, there are many arcaded streets opening into large piazzas and a large number of bridges crossing the Bacchiglione river. Not immense by any means, it is the perfect size to visit on a day trip or to spend a few nights.

There are many things to see within the city, including the most famous of the churches, the Basilica di Sant’Antonio da Padova. Many pilgrims make the trip to Padova every year to visit this historic basilica, which honors St. Anthony, the patron saint of lost and stolen things. Dating back to 1230, the basilica contains many great works of art as well the bones of St. Anthony and relics of the saint (see my post “Finder of Lost Things and People”).

Another very famous place to visit in Padova is the Scrovegni Chapel. Called the “Arena Chapel”, because it stands on the site of a Roman-era arena, it houses many remarkable frescoes by Giotto, detailing the life of the Virgin Mary. These frescoes have been deemed to be of the most important in the world. Commissioned by Enrico degli Scrovegni, a wealthy private banker, it served as a private chapel once attached to his family’s palazzo. Visiting the chapel is not an easy ordeal, however. First, tickets must be secured on-line at least 24 hours in advance. Visitors who have not booked should check entry availability at the Museum ticket office. Those with tickets should reach the chapel at least five minutes before their allotted time or they will not be admitted. Only twenty-five people are admitted per visit and must endure spending 15 minutes prior to entrance in a climate-controlled, air-locked vault, used to stabilize the temperature between the outside world and the inside of the chapel as preservation is of the utmost importance. Visits within the chapel (after air-lock) are only allowed for 15 minutes and no video cameras, cameras, food or drinks are allowed. Mobile phones must be switched off. While I was not able to secure tickets for my visit, I did see the Chapel while traveling thru the city.

After your visit to Scrovegni chapel, head next door to the Church of the Eremitani, a 13th century Augustinian church, containing the tombs of Jacopo and Urbertinello da Carrara, lords of Padova. The church, located next to Nazi headquarters, suffered heavy damage during bombings in World War II and a great portion of the Mantagna’s frescoes within the Ovetari Chapel were destroyed. Other frescoes by artists Guariento and Ansuino da Forli are preserved in the church. The municipal art gallery is housed in the old monastery of the church.

Walking south along the tram lines will lead you to the Tomb of Antenor, located at via del Santo and via San Francesco. Antenor, a Trojan prince, hero and founder of Padova, was believed to have been buried in the city. A marble arch containing a coffin was found and was proclaimed to be the precious remains of Antenor. In 1985, however, examination of the bone fragments proved that the remains were could not be dated back to the time period as first believed. The stone sarcophagus still stands in Piazza Antenor and bears an epitaph written in Latin by the Padovan judge Lovato dei Lovati…This sepulchre excavated from marble contains the body of the noble Antenor who left his country, guided the Eneti and Trojans, banished the Euganeans and founded Padua. The tomb adjacent to Antenor’s belongs to Lovati, although it is known as the tomb of Antenor’s dog, as it bears the bas-relief representing a dog on his tomb. Opposite the Piazza Antenor, take note of the 15th century Palazzo Sala and the Gothic Palazzo Romanin Jacur which carries an inscription saying that Dante hid there to escape arrest.

Nearby in the Piazza dei Signori, is the Astrological Clock. The original clock, built by Jacopo de’Dondi was very advanced and complex for its time and was destroyed either in 1390 or 1399. A replica now presides over the square, however, studying the clock shows that the among the signs of the Zodiac, the sign of Libra is missing…the crab (Cancer) occupies a double space. Legend has it that the builder omitted the Libra symbol intentionally due to not being paid adequately, however, another story tells that the original clock’s crab was also missing as a protest by Jacopo for a town suffering injustice from the Carraresi family. Also notable with the Piazza dei Signori is the beautiful loggia, the Gran Guardia and close by, the Palazzo del Capitaniato, the residence of the Venetian governors.

Caffè Pedrocchi is also just around the corner (see my blog post “The Doorless Cafe”) and was built in 1831. Called the “doorless cafe” because of its openness, it also earned the name because it was originally open 24 hours a day. A very historical establishment, it is a great place to grab a bite to eat and a drink.

Another beautiful architectural specimen, the Palazzo della Ragione, located nearby between two grand squares (the Piazza Delle Erbe and the Piazza Delle Frutta) is known to have the largest roof unsupported by columns in Europe. The Palazzo, dating back to 1172, stands upon open arches and the upper story is surrounded by an open loggia. Beneath the great hall, there is a centuries-old market on most days. The Palazzo can be visited daily except for Mondays.

Walking south through the city, you will find yourself at the Prato della Valle, the largest square in Europe (see my blog post “Yes, It’s Big”). Created by Andrea Memmo in the 18th century, it is lined by 78 statues portraying famous citizens along a small canal with a beautiful green island center, I’Isola Memmia. Many beautiful Italian buildings surround Il Prati, as it is locally known, such as the Palazzo Angeli and La Loggia Amulea

While visiting Il Prati, a bit of time should be taken the visit the Abbey of Santa Giustina and the adjacent Basilica. One of the most important monasteries in the area in the 15th century it was eventually suppressed by Napoleon. Reopened in 1919, the tombs of several saints are housed in the interior, including St. Justine, St. Prosdocimus, St. Maximus, St. Urius, St. Felicita, St. Julianus, as well as relics of the Apostle St. Matthias and the Evangelist St. Luke.

There are many other things to visit in Padua, depending on one’s tastes and the amount of time you have to devote to the city…the fortified walls and gates of the city, Santa Sofia, Padova’s most ancient church, the church of San Gaetano, the Padua Synagogue, the buildings of Palazzo del Bo, the City Hall (Palazzo Moroni), the Castello, which the main tower was transformed into an astronomical observatory and the many bridges, Ponte San Lorenzo, a Roman bridge largely underground, along with the ancient Ponte Molino, Ponte Altinate, Ponte Corvo and Ponte S. Matteo.

Whatever you decide to see and do in Padova and however you decide to pronounce it, you will appreciate all that it has to offer and its uncrowded easygoing spirit.

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Padova

http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/veneto/padua.html
Getting There: http://www.trenitalia.com/ From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00. From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
Getting There: Padua City Tram http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf One ride, (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70, Carnet of 9 tickets for €10, Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00
Basilica di Sant’Antonio da Padova, http://www.santantonio.org/en/basilica Piazza del Santo, 11, 35123 Padova, Italy Free admission. Weekdays, January 1-March 26, 0620-1845, March 27-October 29, 0620-1945, October 30-December 31, 0620-1845. Saturdays and Sundays, 0620-1945
Scrovegni Chapel, http://www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it/index.php/en/ Address: Piazza Eremitani, 8, 35121 Padova PD, Italy Admission: Adults€13. Hours: 0900-1900, daily.
Church of Eremetani, http://www.guidepadova.it/en-GB/Monumenti/Vedi/the-eremitani’s-church Address: Piazza Eremitani, 9, 35129 Padova PD, Italy. Free admission. Weekdays, 0730-1230 and 1530-1900, Saturdays and Sundays, 0900-1230 and 1600-2000.
Tomb of Antenor, Address: Piazza Antenore 35121 Padova, Italy
Astrological Clock, http://padovacultura.padovanet.it/it/musei/astronomical-clock Piazza dei Signori. Free entry. Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Maximum 10 persons. Visits start from Piazza Capitaniato 19. Times: 10:00, 10:30, 11:00, 11:30
Caffe Pedrocchi, http://www.caffepedrocchi.it/ Address: Via VIII Febbraio, 15, 35122 Padova, Hours: Bar, Sun-Wed, 0900-2100, Thurs-Sat, 0900-midnight, Historical salon upstairs, daily, 0930-1230 and 1530-2000
Palazzo della Ragione, http://padovacultura.padovanet.it/it Address: Piazza delle Erbe, 35100 Padova PD, Italy. Hours: 01Feb-31Oct, 0900-1900, 01Nov-31Jan, 0900-1800, Admission: Adults, €6.00
Prato della Valle, http://www.padovanet.it/informazione/prato-della-valle#.VgQdS60VhBc Address: Via Prato della Valle, 35121 Padova PD, Italy
Abbey and Basilica of Santa Giustina, http://www.abbaziasantagiustina.org/ Address: Via Giuseppe Ferrari, 2A, 35123 Padova PD, Italy Hours: Summer weekdays, 0700-1200 and 1500-2000, Weekends, 0630-1300 and 1500-2000. Winter weekdays, 0800-1200 and 1500-2000, Weekends, 0800-1300 and 1500-2000. Free admission.

A House of Saints

When visiting Padua, most people make their way down to Prato della Valle, the largest square in Italy. Presiding at the south end of the square is a church that cannot be overlooked, especially for the extremely devout…Basilica di Santa Giustina.

Giustina (Justine), the patron saint of Padua, was a virgin of royal birth and a disciple of St. Peter the Apostle. At the age of 16, Justine suffered martyrdom during the Christian persecutions of Diocletian. Tortured and beheaded, her body was taken to Rome where it was interred on the estate of a noble lady named Rufina and later entombed in Constantine’s basilica.

Justine’s remains were eventually taken back to the site of her martyrdom. The Abbey of St. Giustina was founded in the 5th century on her tomb and during the 15th century became one of the most important monasteries in the area until its suppression by Napoleon in 1810. During the 6th century the church was dedicated to St. Justine.

Everyone should realize by now that I love visiting churches in Europe for their historical, architectural and artistic importance. This one did not impress me…at first. Not as elaborate as the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, both on the inside and out, this basilica, built in the 6th century, however, is the final resting place for not one, but many saints. As I made a decision to enter, I was not aware of this.

The exterior of St. Giustina is unfortunately not finished, as with most churches in Padua and when entering, the basilica seems quite barren besides the 26 massive columns that fill the space. Much of the artwork and sculpture were removed by Napoleon and brought to France. The side chapels, however, are interesting and richly decorated. The altarpiece of the grand high main altar is impressive, painted by Paolo Veronese, and represents the “Martyrdom of St. Giustina”.

Walking down the right aisle of the church, you will find the Chapel of St. Matthew. Through this chapel you will reach the Corridor of the Martyrs…this is a part of the church that cannot be missed.

A small frescoed chamber houses the bones of early Christian martyrs and further down the corridor, you will see the iron cage with the remains of the wooden coffin of St. Luke. At the end of the corridor, you will reach the grave chapel of St. Prosdocimus, which is also the oldest church in Padua. In the small vestibule to the chapel, you will find the tomb of St. Giustina on the left-hand side. St. Luke, the author of the Acts of the Apostles and the Gospel of Luke, is interred at the end of the left transept of the church. Other saints housed in the basilica are St. Maximus, St. Urius, St. Felicita, St. Julian and relics of St. Matthias.

The old choir, which is adjacent to the major corridor, can be visited only with special permission.

It is possible to also visit the monastery that belongs to the Benedictine order. Tour guides will accompany you in the most ancient part of the first basilica, through the cloisters and the rooms that house the fragments of the second basilica.

At the bottom of the South transept in the Martyrs’ Hall, religious objects and books can be purchased in the gift shop. One of the most interesting things that can also be purchased here is an ancient cure once prepared in the apothecary of the Monastery…the Santa Giustina oil, used for muscle and joint pain and massage.

A most holy place, Santa Giustina should not be omitted from your plans while in Padua. While I had not researched this church, I only ventured in while I was walking through Prato della Valle. Realizing what significant historical importance it has within Catholicism, I am most grateful that I did.

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Abby of Santa Giustina

http://www.abbaziasantagiustina.org/
Prato della Valle, 35100, Padua, Italy
Admission: free
Hours: Spring/Summer, weekdays, 0730-1200 and 1500-2000, weekends, 0630-1300 and 1500-2000. Autumn/Winter, weekdays, 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, weekends, 0800-1300 and 1500-2000.
Getting There: Tram-stop Prato della Valle http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf One ride, (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70, Carnet of 9 tickets for €10.00, Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00

The Münsters

After returning from our Üetliberg expedition, my son and I ventured out from the Hauptbahnhof into the city. Zurich, relatively quiet on a Sunday, was perfect for a walk along the River Limmat toward two of Zurich’s well-known churches.

First on our list was Zurich’s Fraumünster Church, (The Church of Our Lady) founded in 853 by Louis the German. Built on the remains of a former abbey for aristocratic women, it now belongs to the Evangelical Reformed Church of the Canton of Zurich and is one of the four main churches of Zurich, the other’s being Grossmünster, Prediger and St. Peter’s church.

Easily visible for its slender green peak and clock tower, the Fraumünster stands out along the River Limmat. While the interior is not as ornate as other churches throughout Europe, visitors flock to this world famous church to see the five large stained glass windows designed by Russian-born artist Marc Chagall.

Three of Chagall’s stained glass windows

Installed in 1970, in the choir of the abbey, each window has a dominant color and depicts a Christian story. The five works are, Prophets, showing Elijah’s ascent to heaven, Jacob, depicting his combat and dreams of heaven, Christ, displaying various scenes of Christ’s life, Zion, illustrating an angel trumpeting the end of the world and Law, with Moses looking down upon the suffering of his people. Also worth noting is the impressive stained glass in the North transept created in 1940 by Augusto Giacometti, nephew of the famous Swiss abstract artist, Alberto Giacometti. A sign near the entrance advises visitors that no pictures are allowed inside the church, however, a few were taken discreetly.

Just across the river, the 12th century Romanesque ex-cathedral, Grossmünster was next on our list. Located in the Grossmünsterplatz, its twin towers soar above the other buildings in this area of Zurich. The Grossmünster, much like the Fraumünster, is not very ornate and quite bare. No statues and paintings decorate its interior, only a few faded frescoes. The pulpit was added in 1851 and the organ in 1960.

AG Fraumunster — Stained glass by Augusto Giacometti

Not to be outdone by the Fraumünster, stained glass windows were commissioned by Augusto Giacometti and Sigmar Polke. Giacometti’s window depicting the Three Magi bearing gifts to the Virgin and child has reigned in the choir since 1933. In 2009, German artist, Sigmar Polke, crafted seven windows in the nave from thinly sliced agate. The brilliantly colored result was then expanded with five glass windows featuring Old Testament figures. The scapegoat, Isaac, the Son of Man, Elijah and David all move in the direction of the birth of Christ and thus toward the window created by Giacometti.

Fraumunster9 — Stained glass by Sigmar Polke

A trip down to the Grossmünster’s crypt is also recommended as it is the largest in Switzerland. Here, you can now see the 15th century stone statue of Charlemagne, whom legend tells us is the founder of the church. The statue once stood atop the south tower and is now replaced by a replica. As with the Fraumünster, photos were not allowed in the Grossmünster.

As a frequent church “tourist”, I must say that these two churches were nice to occupy a couple of hours on a Sunday, when there is not much else to do in downtown Zurich. Not bowled over by extraordinary beauty as I have experienced in other cities, they are mostly to be appreciated for their architectural prevalence. If you respect and value art, however, time should be taken to behold the artistry of the world famous stained glass in both churches.

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Fraumünster

http://www.fraumuenster.ch/en/
Fraumünster, Münsterhof 28001 Zürich
Hours: March 1 thru October 31, 1000-1800, November 1 thru February 29, 1000-1700. On Sundays and holidays, the church will open after services at 12 noon.
Admission: No charge
Getting there: 5 minute walk from Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)

Grossmünster

http://www.grossmuenster.ch/de/
Address: Grossmünsterplatz, 8001 Zürich
Hours: Daily except Sundays, March thru October, 1000-1800, November thru February, 1000-1700. Sundays, open after services.
Admission: No charge
Getting there: 5 minute walk from Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)

A Worshipful Walkabout

A few weeks ago, I was in the Dominican Republic on Easter Sunday, soaking up the sunshine on Bavaro Beach. Little did I realize that a little more than a month later, I would get to celebrate Easter again.

While checking the Acropolis museum website last week, I noticed a banner across the website opening page, Holy Week 2016 Opening Hours at the Acropolis Museum. “Oh, they must have not updated their web page this month”, I thought to myself.

Well, you are never too old to learn something new. The Greek Orthodox Church celebrates Easter later than the Catholic church. The Greek Orthodox Church uses the Julian calendar when calculating the date of Pascha (Easter), while the rest of Christianity uses the Gregorian calendar. There is a thirteen day difference between the two calendars with the Julian calendar being thirteen days behind the Gregorian. Additionally, the Orthodox Church maintains that Pascha must take place after the Jewish Passover in order to maintain the Biblical sequence of Christ’s Passion. Occasionally, the two do celebrate it on the same date (last time, 2011), however the dates of Easter for the Orthodox Church can be anywhere from one to five weeks later.

So, Easter was going to be celebrated on Sunday and all museums, archaeological sites and many shops would be closing early on Saturday? There goes my nap. Being that we would not be arriving until mid-morning, I realized that if I wanted to visit any museums or do any shopping, I would have to take a shower and hit the streets right away.

Having made the decision to visit Agia Dynamis, I decided to map out other churches in the area since it was a Holy Weekend. Visits to these would be accomplished on my way to and from the Kerameikos Ancient Cemetery. Some of my favorite things to see in other countries is their churches…what not a better weekend to see some of Athen’s finest, than on Easter weekend?

Agia Dynamis (Holy Power), a tiny church on the corner of Mitropoleos Street and Pentellis Street, is squeezed between two of the supporting pillars of the Ministry of Education and Religion building. The ministry has been party built around the church as it cannot be demolished due to its prominent history. During the Greek revolution this was the location, that the Greek ammunition master, Mastropavlis, made bullets for the Turkish and for Greek freedom fighters that were smuggled out during the night in garbage bags.

The church is very small and not very embellished. There were many Athenians visiting the church while I was on the premises, lighting candles and offering up prayers.

Walking up Mitropoleos Street, in the Platia Mitropoleos, I next arrived at the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and the adjacent and diminutive Agios Eleftherios church, also known as Mikri Mitropoli (little metropolitan church) or Panagia Georgoepikoos (meaning “All-saint Mary who answers quickly to prayers”).

The Agios Eleftherios church is a Byzantine-era construction from the 13th century ordered to be built by the bishop of Athens. With the expulsion of King Otho, in 1862, it received its current name, meaning “Freedom”.

The outside is constructed of marble with much artistic detail. It is extremely small inside, but beautiful in its simplistic character.

After my visit was complete, I moved onward to the Agios Eleftherios’ illustrious neighbor, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens, popularly known as the “Metropolis”.

Towering over the “little metropolitan church” and the square, the domed basilica has presided in its current location since 1842 when construction began on Christmas Day. Marble from 72 demolished churches was used to build the Cathedral’s colossal walls. After its completion 20 years later, the Cathedral was dedicated by the King and Queen to the Annunciation of the Mother of God. The cathedral, a major city landmark, is the site of official ceremonies and important wedding and funerals.

When entering the church, note the ancient marble, above the entrance, depicting a woman said to be Eileithyia, the goddess of childbirth. During the passage from mythology to Christianity, many temples were transformed into churches and leads one to believe that this particular church was probably built on the ruins of an ancient Greek temple dedicated to Eileithyia.

The interior is very ornate with rich color, distinctive iconography and a beautiful domed ceiling. The Cathedral houses the tombs of two saints, Saint Philothei and Patriarch Gregory V, both killed by the Ottoman Turks during the Ottoman period. The interior was roped off and the sanctuary could only be viewed from afar.

After exiting the Cathedral, I took a a moment to wander through the square taking note of the two statues which reside here; Saint Constantine XI the Ethnomartyr, the last Byzantine Emperor and Archbishop Damaskinos, the Archbishop of Athens during World War II, who was also Regent for King George II and Prime Minister of Greece in 1946.

Walking through the Plaka, I resumed my church tour arriving in Monastiraki Square. The square is named for the Church of Pantanassa (or Ekklisia Kimisi Theotokou Mitropoleos) which is also located here. This small church presides over the square and the crowds of tourists that congregate here for shopping, dining, sightseeing and utilization of the metro at the Monastiraki station.

This church was known as the Great Monastery as it was located on the site of a monastery that stood here many years ago. Later, it became monastiraki (little monastery) which eventually denominated the entire area. Deciding to forgo the interior of this small shrine, I admired it from outside and continued on my way.

My next destination was the Kerameikos Cemetery, Museum and Archaeological Site located near the end of Ermou Street. The cemetery, one of the lesser known archaeological sites in the city, is most certainly worth a visit while in the area.

After my visit to Kerameikos Cemetery, I headed back through Monastiraki Square and walked along the Ancient Agora admiring Hadrian’s Library and the Tower of the Winds.

My final destination was the Church of the Holy Trinity or Sotira Lykodimou, one of the largest medieval buildings in Athens. The Byzantine church was built a little before 1083 within the city’s defensive walls. In 1847, the Russian government purchased the property and Tsar Alexander II undertook the huge renovation of the building in 1850, when the impressive bell tower and side tribunes were added. Now commonly known as the Russian Church it is the parish church of the Russian Orthodox community in Athens.

Stepping into the church, the eye is drawn upward to the impressively festooned dome and the exquisite tall Russian iconostasis, which warranted further inspection, however, before I could take additional pictures, I was instructed that none were allowed.

A quick walk around the exterior and I finally decided that my church tour was complete and it was finally time for my nap.

Within the ancient winding city of Athens, there are many more churches that are worthy of inspection. Dating back to the 5th century and boasting impressive architecture, most are well-preserved and decorated with icons and rare-frescoes. While strolling around the city, everyone should take time to visit these historical houses of worship.

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Agia Dynamis

Corner of Mitropoleos and Pentelis Streets
Take metro to Syntagma square, cross the square to the start of Mitropoleos Street and walk west. The church will be on your left.Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens and Agios Eleftherios Church
Metropolitan Square, Athens 105 56
Take metro to Syntagma square, cross the square to the start of Mitropoleos Street and walk west. The square and churches will be on your left.

Church of Pantanassa

Monastiraki Square, 10555 Athens
By Metro: 1 (Green Line), 3 (Blue Line), Station “Monastiraki”
By Bus: 025, 026, 027, 035, 200, 227, 500
By Foot: From Syntagma Square, follow Ermou Street all the way down until you meet up with Monastiraki Square

Church of the Holy Trinity

Corner of Filellinon Street and Souri
Take metro to Syntagma square. Head south on Amalias, take a right on Souri.

Cathedral of Lima

The Cathedral of Lima, dedicated to St. John the Apostle and Evangelist, presides on the eastern side of the Plaza de Armas and is truly a magnificent work of art, a far cry from its modest beginnings.

It has been told that in January 18, 1535, the Spanish conquistador and founder of Lima, Francisco Pizarro placed the first stone, taken from an Inca temple located on this site, and carried over his shoulders the first log used in the construction of the Cathedral.

Over the years, many earthquakes have necessitated the repairs and reconstruction of the Cathedral, most notably the earthquakes of 1746 and 1940. Still retaining its colonial structure and facade, it is important to note when entering the structure, the three large doorways, which are in keeping with the majority of cathedrals. The main or central doorway is called the Portada del Perdon or the “door of forgiveness”. Above the doorways is the Peruvian seal and the phrase “Plus Ultra” rather than Lima’s coat of arms.

Carved in stone and ornamented with exquisite details and decorations, the front of the cathedral is flanked by the two high towers with spires of slate which were added around 1800.

After entering the cathedral and paying the entry fee of 10 sols, you are free to wander throughout the cathedral and the Religious Art Museum which is housed within the cathedral. A guided tour may be taken or one can self-guide through the Cathedral using the pamphlet dispersed with the ticket.

Due to the reparations stemming from the earthquakes, the interior is a sight to behold displaying a mix of late Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassic elements. Beautiful vaulted ceilings, checkerboard flooring, a gold plated main altar and intricately carved choir stalls are most notable, however, taking the time to inspect each of the fourteen chapels is highly recommended. A map is handed out to each guest, with your paid admission, detailing the side chapels. One of the chapels, opens on to Calle de Judios (Street of the Jews) and another on to the Patio de los Naranjos (Square of the Orange Trees), which is connected to the Cathedral.

The first chapel in the left aisle, holds the ancient baptistery. Ancient pictures found recently in this chapel, have been restored and are on display for the public. This chapel is followed by the Capilla de la Sagrada Familia (Chapel of the Holy Family) featuring figures of Jesus, Mary and Joseph. I highly recommend spending a few minutes admiring each chapel’s unique qualities.

As you make your way to rear of the Cathedral, you will find your way to the Religious Art Museum within the old sacristy. The museum displays a large collection of historical objects including painting, sculptures, furniture, jewelry, sacred vessels and religious vestments and robes of former archbishops.

Also at the rear of the Cathedral is a large crypt. Many remains can be seen here, including a display of skulls in a glass-fronted niche. Another oddity, a glass case situated in the floor, contains about a dozen or so extremely small coffins.

The tomb of Francisco Pizarro also is housed within the Cathedral as you walk in on the right hand side. A most interesting story, the mummified remains of the conquistador were on display in a glass casket in the Cathedral of Lima for almost a century. The remains were visited by Catholic and Spanish pilgrims and studied by historians. Imagine the shock when in 1977, workers uncovered a casket engraved with the words, “Here is the skull of the Marquis Don Francisco Pizarro who discovered and won Peru and placed it under the crown of Castile.”

Another unique find within the Cathedral is a tea shop opened a couple of years ago. When visiting La Teteria, visitors can choose from a menu of teas and nutritious baked pastries and breads. While the tea shop is housed within the Cathedral, it can be visited independently by simply asking at the main doors of the church.

Although I found the San Francisco Church to be much more impressive and beautiful, I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Cathedral. For the history buff and the architecturally obsessed, it is a must-see on your trip to Lima.

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Cathedral of Lima

Address: Jirón Carabaya, Lima 15001, Peru
Admission: 10 sols (about $3) includes admission to cathedral and museum. Combination ticket of 30 sols (about $9) includes the Archbishops Palace and the Cathedral, including museum
Hours: Monday-Friday 9:00-17:00, Saturday, 10:00-13:00, Sunday, 13:00-17:00