Tag: photography

The Big Fat Greek Island

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As Greek sunshine flooded our Naxos hotel room, we opened our balcony doors and looked out into the quiet streets, breathing in the salty sea air. It’s amazing to be in the Greek Isles!

After a quick breakfast, we headed into town to explore the multitude of passageways that headed uphill and the Venetian castle that keeps watch over the town. Because of the early hour, many of the shops we passed were not open and as we neared the castle, I was surprised to find it was not the typical castle that I had visited in other cities. What I mean is that I expected a ticket booth and an actual entrance into the fortification. This castle can be accessed wholly without a ticket and if you aren’t really paying attention, you might miss the fact that you are actually on the castle’s grounds as there are so many buildings that make up the complex.

That being said, the castle of Chora is a medieval monument, built by Venetian Duke Markos Sanoudos in 1207. It has two entrances, the Great Gate (Trani Porta) and the Wicket (Paraporti). Inside the castle, there are many medieval buildings such as the boarding school of the Ursulines, the School of Commerce founded by the Jesuit monks, the Kapela Kazatza, a chapel of the Duke, the Catholic Cathedral and the Tower of Krispi or Glezos (housing the Byzantine Museum).

It was an amazing adventure to travel amidst the winding passageways, that snake between the homes, shop and restaurants that make up this area. And believe me…it was not easy making progress as there was a picture to be taken at every turn!

Knowing that there was so much more to see on the island, we headed to a car rental shop and secured a car for the day. Getting out of the city was a bit of a challenge, but once we had traveled a few miles, it was fairly easy navigation.

Traveling through the western part of the island, we passed near the salt lakes where hundreds of windsurfers and kitesurfers meet each day to test their skill. In this area, we also were aware that there were many beautiful beaches, however, our mission was to explore the interior of the island before laying down our towels in the sun.

As we drove through the countryside, passing old windmills high on arid peaks, we soon came to the town of Vivlos, where we noticed one of the historical monument signs. Advertising the location of the Old Wash House that the villagers once used before the advent of Maytag, the site was still in relatively good shape and we could only image the villagers meeting here each day to do their laundry.

Continuing on, we soon found ourselves in Kato Sagri. A ruined building next to a church my eye. Pulling over, we walked around the property which is located at the settlement of Kanakari. The complex consisted of a tower house and bakery, both in ruins, with washers and a water well, formerly used for the needs of the buildings. This area was once used as a gathering point for the inhabitants of the village and the small church of the Annunciation, which is still in excellent condition, has served as a church for both Christian Catholics and Orthodox Christians. There is also a small complex of rooms, Kanakari1656, to rent behind the church offering a private getaway for visitors to the area.

Our next destination was the Temple of Demeter (Dimitras), however, it was nearing lunchtime and we decided to grab a bite to eat at the Cafe Bar Mylos, which sported a couple of old windmills on the premises. Spotting a sign across the road directing visitors to the historic site of Church of Agios Nikolaos, we decided to take a walk down the narrow, dusty road to check it out. A longer walk than we anticipated, we tried to enjoy the warm, clear day and the beauty of the countryside.

After turning onto a small path along a stone fence, we arrived at the small church which is located all alone in a field surrounded by the mountainous beauty. Though we were unable to view the interior, I later learned that it is a single-aisle church with an interior covered by successive layers of frescoes. These frescoes depict the birth and baptism of Jesus with the most recent layer dates back to 1270.

After the long walk back to our car, we resumed our trek to the Temple of Demeter, located not far near the village of Sangri.

The marble temple dedicated to Demeter, the ancient goddess of grain, dates back to the 6th century BC in the classical architectural style. Built near fertile areas, it was used for a religious purpose since the late Mycenaean Era.

Around the 3rd century BC, the temple was turn into a Christian religious center and a small chapel, dedicated to Agios Ioannis, was built on the premises, using marble from the ancient temple. Ruined in the 6th century, it was rebuilt in 1977.

After the remains of the temple were discovered in 1949, excavations lasted almost twenty years, beginning in 1976. Restored to its original glory by German archaeologists in the 1990s, the temple is now open to visitors.

Although a bit of a drive from Naxos Town, the temple is quite beautiful in its natural setting and accessible from its entire perimeter. After we had walked around the temple and checked out the chapel, I then took a walk to the rear of the property, past the ticket booth, to the museum which displays many remnants of the ruins that were not used in the reconstruction.

We continued our drive through the towering mountains in the middle of the island admiring the white-washed towns the cascade down the slopes and the countless churches that dot the countryside. After a quick hike down the side of a steep cliff, I even visited a simple little chapel that offered phenomenal views of the rich island.

Finally, after much driving, we decided that it was time to head to the coast for some much needed relaxation. Beginning at Plaka beach, we took a walk to the water to see what was available. Though the water was relatively calm, clear and blue, it did not appear as though there were any chairs for rent in this area. Driving further up the road, we soon found ourselves at Agia Anna. Here, there was plenty of parking and the water appeared similar to what we had just seen at Plaka Beach. A quick chat with a gentleman on the beach, secured us three beach chairs and an umbrella!

Though the water was pretty chilly, it was wonderful to see how clear it was and the beach was not overly crowded. Many restaurants and a small grocery store across the street provided some nourishment and we proceeded to enjoy the remainder of the afternoon enjoying the views and warmth of the Greek sun.

As the day drew to a close, the realization that our time in Naxos was coming to an end and yet, I felt as though there was so much more see on this “great big fat greek island”!

What an unexpected surprise!

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Old Wash House

  • Address: Βίβλος 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Site of Kanakari

  • Address: Κανακάρι, Sangrí 843 00, Greece

Cafe Bar Mylos

  • Address: Άνω Σαγκρί 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown

Aghios Nikolaos

  • Address: Naxos 843 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: interior not open to public

Temple of Demeter

  • Address: Drimalia 843 02, Greece
  • Hours: 0900-1600, closed Tuesday
  • Admission: 4€
  • Getting There: By car, from Hora, follow the road to Filoti. After about 6 miles turn onto the road signposted for Ano Sangri and the Temple of Demeter. Follow the signs for about 2 more miles to the temple.

Next? Naxos!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

With so many Greek islands to choose from, how do you decide which to visit?

Although my family and I knew that we wanted to visit Santorini, we had no clue where to go after that.

A friend, who had recently visited three islands, suggested her itinerary of two nights in each Santorini, Mykonos and Paros. We contemplated these but hearing her stories about the expense of Mykonos, we decided that we wanted something a little more laid back and less costly.

Having spotted another friend’s posts on Facebook, I sent her a message inquiring about her recent vacation on the island of Naxos. Her response was overwhelmingly positive and after sending me a list of restaurants, hotels and things to do, we decided that this would be our destination.

Naxos, the largest of the islands of the Cyclades, lies north of Santorini and was once the seat of the Ducat of the Aegean and has been continuously inhabited since the 4th milennium BC. The most fertile of the Greek Islands, Naxos is a major producer of olive oil, potatoes, spoon sweets, the island’s famous liqueur, Kitron, wine and cheeses. It is famous for its wide variety of cultural events, traditional fairs. The island also offers colorful mountain villages, traditional windmills, breathtaking hiking and biking trails and some of the most beautiful beaches in the Greece.

The ferry from Santorini to Naxos, was a quick hour and ten minutes and before we knew it, we were pulling up to a quaint ferry port backed by a town built into the hillside, topped with an imposing Venetian castle.

It was a quick walk to our hotel and after checking in, we decided to spend the afternoon at Saint George’s Beach, just around the corner.

A popular beach which lays southwest of Naxos Town, Saint George’s Beach is named after the small chapel of Saint George which lies at its northern end. We found the waters to be extremely calm and relatively clear, though darker in nature, and the sands were soft, yet more of a dingy gray than any beach we had ever visited.

Making our way down the beach past the many restaurants that line the area, we finally decided on a place with a large number of vacant umbrellas and sun-beds for rent. Here, we relaxed for the remainder of the day, enjoying cold beers, snacks and great music.

As sunset approached, we headed into town to one of the bars facing the harbor to watch the amazing evening spectacle, so different and yet, so similar to those we had eyed each evening while in Santorini.

Finally, as the day came to a close, with the sun dipping beyond the horizon, we headed to one of the many restaurants rimming the harbor. The aroma of fresh, grilled seafood filled the air as we discussed our plans for the next day, which would start with us venturing through the narrow alleys and stairways up to the castle. We were then going to rent a car and see what lies beyond the main town.

Caves, beaches, churches, mountains, windmills, villages…

Naxos…a new place to explore!!! I couldn’t wait!

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Saint George’s Beach

So Much Santorini…So Little Time

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

It was our last day in Santorini.

How do you squeeze in a gazillion things into only so many daylight hours?

We had some ideas of places we wanted to visit…the Ancient Site of Thera for sure…maybe the beaches in Perissa or Kamari.

As we drove toward the town of Perissa, we stared in wonder at the large groups of tourists who stood, patiently waiting for the local bus. Where were they all going? Probably other beaches, judging from their tropical attire.

We were heading to where they were heading away from…the village of Perissa.

Perissa, located on the southeastern edge of Santorini, is a coastal village where the ancient city of Elefsina was believed to have been located. At the base of Mesa Vouno mountain, the small village is known for its beautiful blue waters, black lava sand and wide array of restaurants and accommodations.

As we drove into the village, the first thing I noticed was the Tlimios Stavros with its blue dome and impressive bell tower. Once we had found a place to park, we walked over to the church to take a look. Most of the churches we had visited had been open, however, we found this one locked and we were forced to admire is architectural beautify from outside. The village was quite charming, filled with lots of souvenirs and we made a mental note to return in the evening to enjoy one of the many restaurants that lined the beach area.

As I gazed up at Mesa Vouno, movement caught my eye. People were walking up a steep path towards the summit! I knew the site of Ancient Thera was located on the mountain, but I had not realized that you could climb from Perissa. High on the mountainous slopes, I also spotted the white-washed chapel of Panagia Katefiani. Could I make it all the way?

After talking with a local in one of the shops, I learned that we could drive back to Pyrgos and then head toward Kamari. There, we would find the road that leads to Ancient Thera, complete with parking and we would not have to climb the entire way up the mountain. Pressed for time, this would be our option.

A short while later, we were making the harrowing drive from Kamari to Ancient Thera…2.3 kilometers with 22 hairpin switchbacks. Taking our cue from other drivers, we proceeded carefully and stopped at each switchback to blow the horn at descending traffic. A little worse for the wear, we finally arrived at our destination.

After purchasing our tickets, we began our climb to the summit of Ancient Thera, the 11th century BC Dorian settlement that exhibits remains from Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine periods as well as amazing views of Kamari on one side and Perissa, Perivolos, Fira and Oia from the other. And on clear days, you can also see some of the neighboring islands!

The existence of Ancient Thera is one of the most important pieces of Santorini’s history. After excavations began in 1986, it was revealed that a settlement stretching from northwest to southwest, was split by a central street with many side streets branching off of each side.

As we walked through the immense site, we encountered many excavated ruins including the Agora (the main square of the city) the Basilike Stoa (the center of public life), the theater (which contained seating for 1,500 people), the sacred area (with an enclosed grotto dedicated to Hermes and Heracles) and a gymnasium with Roman baths.

A cul-de-sac, at the highest point of the city, had an impressive building which was the headquarters of the fleet commander and a courtyard next door which was thought to be the gymnasium of the garrison. There were also the remains of dwelling which belonged to officers of the fleet.

Higher up on the mountain plateau was where the city’s inhabitants lived in houses centralized around a small courtyard where a cistern was located. Some houses had two levels and others also had basements.

There are many remains of artwork exhibited throughout the site including mosaics and carvings that can still be spied throughout and although the entire city is captivating, what transfixed our attention was the views. Staring out at the neighboring islands and the city’s of Kamari and Perissa below reminded us that we needed to continue our exploration of the island.

Making our way back the way we had come, I looked longingly at the footpath heading down to Perissa. A gentleman leading horses down the trail reminded me that because we had not made the climb from Perissa, caused me to miss the small chapel I had spied from the village. There was so much more that we had missed on the island, it would have to wait until a future visit!

The drive down the mountain was just as unnerving as on the way up, but finally we arrived in Kamari. Though we had planned to spend the afternoon on Kamari or Perissa’s beaches, we decided that although we had driven through Fira on a couple of occasions, we had never had the opportunity to explore the capital of Santorini.

After securing a parking spot, we headed into the narrow, crowded streets and alleys, passing through Theotokopoulos Square, which overflows with cafes and thousands of visitors, Gold Street and its countless jewelry stores and the commercial center of Fabrika.

We finally arrived at the Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral, one of the most photographed churches on the island, due to its primary location in the city. Built in 1827, the large church offers amazing views of the caldera and nearby islands. Destroyed in the great earthquake of 1956, it was rebuilt with elaborate arches, a stunning bell tower, beautiful frescoes, a mosaic flooring, amazing central chandelier and offers religious paintings created by Santorinian painter Christoforos Asimis.

Finally, we headed to the teleferico. I had once seen a video on arriving visitors to the island taking the donkeys up the steep, winding path. I must admit, when we arrived two days before, this is what I had anticipated and was quite disappointed that there were no donkeys…only the rental car representative.

My husband, son and I paid for our cable car transport to the bottom of the steep cliffs to the old port below. A very picturesque setting, we walked along the harbor, watching passengers arrive and depart from waiting cruise ships and tours. There were quaint boats moored in the slip and many shops and restaurants as well as the old market.

As we prepared to take the cable car back to the top, I decided that even though my husband and son had no interest in riding the donkey to the top, I needed to do it!

Taking my place in the queue, I paid the attendant, climbed on and off I went up the steep pathway. It was fun to travel the traditional way that goods and people once did to Fira, although sometimes my donkey had a mind of its own. Or…maybe it was just giving me time to enjoy the views! Still, it was much more fun than climbing up 587 steps to the top!

Our final stop of the day was to one of the many bars that look out over the caldera. Here, we enjoyed one of the most spectacular views that I have ever seen!

Although we only saw about a quarter of what this amazing island had to offer, I was suddenly caught up in the moment.

What was right there before my eyes was what Santorini is all about!

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Ancient Thera

  • http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh355.jsp?obj_id=2454
  • Address: Ancient Thera Road, Kamari 17892, Greece
  • Hours: November 1 until March 31, 0800-1500, Closed Mondays. April 1 until October 31, 0830-1600, Closed Tuesday.
  • Admission: Full, €4, Reduced, €2. Special ticket package, Full: €14, Reduced: €7. The special package 4 day ticket is for Archaelogical Sites and Museum in Thera including Ancient Thera, Akrotiri, Archaeological Museum, Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Collection of Icons and Ecclesiastical Artifacts at Pyrgos. Free admission on March 6, April 18, May 18, last weekend of September, National Holidays, October 28, every first Sunday from November 1 to March 31.

Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral

  • Address:  Ipapantis, Thira 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: unknown
  • Admission: free
  • Modest dress required

Santorini Cable Car

  • http://www.scc.gr/
  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: April 1-April 30, 0700-2100, every 20 minutes. May 1-May 30 and September 1-October 31, 0700-2200, every 20 minutes. June 1-August 31, 0700-2300, every 20 minutes. November 1-November 30 and March 1-March 31, 0730-1030 and 1430-1800, every 30 minutes. December 1-February 28, 0700-0900 and 1500-1600, every 30 minutes.
  • Admission: Adults, one-way, 6€, Children, 3€, Luggage, 3€.

Santorini Donkeys

Old Santorini Port

Santorini South, Part Two

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The day was perfect.

Blue skies and amazing views were everywhere.

Heading further south on the well-maintained roads of Santorini, we continued on our journey to see what the scenic island would offer up to us.

After gazing out over Caldera Beach, we headed to the prehistoric town of Akrotiri. An ancient Minoan Bronze Age settlement, it was destroyed by a severe earthquakes and eventually a volcanic eruption at the last quarter of the 17th century B.C. Much like Pompeii in Italy, volcanic materials covered the town, protecting them for the town’s resurgence in later years. Since I had never been to Pompeii (something high on my bucket list), I was excited to see this well-preserved archaeological site and understand what I might see when I finally made my way to the Italian ruins.

The settlement, however, is protected by a bioclimatic roof and very different from pictures I had seen of Pompeii. After paying our entrance fee, we made our way around well-marked site, navigable by walkways suspended above the archaeological remains.

There were many important buildings that were mostly intact, including multi-storied houses, a few containing well-preserved frescoes, pottery and precious stone and bronze objects. Most of the important pieces that have been recovered, however, are now on display in the Museum of Prehistoric Thera.

After our visit was complete, we had planned to have lunch nearby and make our way to the adjacent Red Beach. So many cars and pedestrians were entering the parking area, however, we decided to alter our plans. Driving out past the modern-day village of Akrotiri, with its picturesque alleys, blue domed churches and traditional houses, we found a lovely restaurant, The Good Heart, located along the highway, to have a quick bite. Greeted warmly, we ate our lunch and bought some delicious snacks at their adjacent store.

Once our lunch and shopping was complete, we continued down to the end of the highway, stopping a couple of times to admire the continually beckoning caldera.

Our destination was the Akrotiri Lighthouse and we soon arrived, luckily securing a parking spot in the small lot. The well-known lighthouse is considered one of the best and most beautiful lighthouses in the Greek Isles.

A whitewashed structure, the lighthouse stands high on the cliff above the sea. Manufactured by a French company is 1892, it was one of the first lighthouses in the country and stands on a popular spot for tourists to enjoy the views and for locals to spend their evenings enjoying the cool breezes and spectacular sunsets.

Finally, heading back from the way we had just come, we decided that we had conquered most of the the southern sites of Santorini, but now needed to enjoy a bit of beach time. Heading down a small, rocky road toward the southern coast, we soon arrived at the Akro Beach Club.

Taking the steep stairs down the side of the cliff, we found ourselves at one of the three picturesque beaches that line the coast. Red, White and Black Beaches occupy methodical positions that can be reached by car in two of the instances (Red and Black) and by water taxi. Though we later learned that the water taxi would have been a cool alternative for us to see all three beaches, we were anxious to grab some beach chairs, beer and soak up some sun.

The beach was black, as its name suggests and a bit rocky. Thankfully, we had brought water shoes, making it much less difficult to make it down to the water’s edge. The water, however, was a bit cold for me!

The ambiance was amazing and we stayed much longer than we had anticipated, enjoying the sound of the waves, passing boats and warm weather. The beach was uncrowded and passengers from the water taxi came and went. More importantly, the beer was cold and refreshing!

As the day drew to a close, we finally made our way up the steep road…

To another beautiful sunset.

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Akrotiri

  • http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh351.jsp?obj_id=2410
  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: November 1-March 31, 0800-1500, Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Monday. April 15-October 31, 0800-2000, daily.
  • Admission: Full, €12, Reduded, €6. Special package 4-day ticket is for Archaelogical Sites and Museum in Thera Ancient Thera, Akrotiri, Archaeological Museum, Museum of Prehistoric Thera, Collection of Icons and Ecclesiastical Artefacts at Pyrgos. Free admission days, March 6, April 18, May 18, last weekend of September annually (European Heritage Days), National Holidays, October 28, every first Sunday from November 1 to March 31.
  • Getting There: By rental car, parking is available in adjacent lot, €4 or in Red Beach parking lot, €2. KTEL Santorini bus service to Akrotiri from Fira. Check out bus schedules at https://www.ktel-santorini.gr/index.php/en/.

Akrotiri Lighthouse

  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Black Beach

  • Address: Thera 847 00, Greece

Akro Beach Bar

  • https://www.akrosantorini.com/
  • Address: Akrotiri 847 00, Greece
  • Hours: 1000-2200, daily
  • Admission: free.
  • Beach chair/umbrella pairs, $30 first row, $20 second row, $15 last row. Menu item prices vary. Food/drink service located on beach and in restaurant. Locked safety boxes available at beach chairs.

Akrotiri Water Taxi

  • Journeys to all three beaches, 10€ from Akrotiri, near Red Beach.

A Santorini Sunset

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Santorini.

One of the most beautiful of the Greek Islands, it offers towering cliffs, lined with whitewashed villages, set amidst stunning azure waters. Having seen pictures over the years, I knew that if I had to select one Greek Island to visit, that would be it.

After picking up our rental car and making our way up the steep road to our hotel in Pyrgos, we unpacked, made a quick run to the grocery store and then stood on our patio, staring at the beautiful scenery on all sides of us. Now what?

We had three days to discover everything about this unique enclave.

My husband had spoken to the gentleman at the front desk and he had suggested heading to the north side of the island for some of the best views of the sunset. We needed to head out, it was already mid-afternoon!

Following the highway past Thera and Imerovigli and enjoying the views along the way, we finally arrived in Oia. Tour buses rolled past us and parking lots were filled to capacity. Large droves of people walked past us on the narrow roads. Finally, we found a parking spot along the roadway and walked up to the Lioyerma Lounge Cafe and Pool Bar to get a drink and our bearings.

Discovering that the view here was second to none and having had a long day of travel, we decided to remain here and enjoy some cold beers as the sun dropped lower towards the horizon.

While my husband and son enjoyed some traditional Greek appetizers, I decided to do some exploration of the area. Finding small walkways lined with colorful hyposkafa buildings, windmills, minimalist churches, sea captains’ houses, old wineries, hotels restaurants, shops and cafes, I was astounded. Everything was so picture-perfect, I felt as though I was walking through a postcard.

This was what we had come to see!

This…and a sunset.

Yes, the sun was inching closer to where the sea meets the sky, so I returned back to our table on the edge of the cliff.

The winds had increased and it was quite chilly as we toasted our good fortune to have made it to such a stunning location.

Eventually, as a cruise ship made its way out to sea, the sun dipped behind the waves, enveloping us in the gloaming.

One of the most astonishing sights I have ever laid my well-traveled eyes on.

I had always heard about the stunning Santorini sunsets.

Now, I understood.

Santorini sunsets were definitely made for proposals!

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Lioyerma Lounge Cafe and Pool Bar

  • Address: Oia 847 02, Greece
  • Hours: 1000-2200, daily
  • Admission: Drinks and food for purchase. To sit at tables near the edge, for excellent sunset viewing, minimum purchase required.

Fly or Float?

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are two ways to Santorini.

Airplane.

Ferry.

Although we were anxious to get to Santorini as soon as possible, we were also curious about Greece’s ferry system. So many times while in Athens for work, I desperately wanted to head to the Port of Piraeus to catch a ferry to one of the nearby islands.

I always chickened out.

I was not sure how the port was laid out, if it would be easy to find the correct ferry or even how to purchase a ticket.

This time, we realized that we needed to try something different. We’ve traveled by plane for so long, we felt as though we needed to figure out how to travel like the locals. The bonus would be the beautiful scenery along the way!

Once we decided that our trip to Santorini was going to be on the ferry…it was time to figure it all out!

Discovering that there was more than one website offering ferry tickets, including the ferry service’s own websites, it became a matter of choosing the one which offered the best price for the class of service. Opting for Business Class tickets, we were all set. I was finally getting to go to the Greek Islands!

Now…I needed to figure out how to get to the port.

A brief discussion with my Airbnb owner gave me the confidence to take the metro. He warned of the terrible traffic near the port near departure times and since we were near the Monastiraki metro station, he explained that it was easy to take the metro straight to the port.

He was right!

Up early, we purchased our metro tickets and waited for our departing train. Twenty minutes later, we (and a LOT of other people) were exiting that same train, headed to our respective ferries.

The port was busy with arriving cars and taxis and fellow travelers pulling and carrying suitcases. We had no idea which gate our ferry was departing from and it took a bit of walking before we discovered the board with the gate assignments.

In other countries, I have taken ferries on occasion…nothing, however, had prepared me for what we would find for our trip to Santorini. Approaching the gate area, we were fascinated…this was not a ferry! It was a cruise ship!

Entering from the rear, our tickets were checked and we were directed to place our luggage in the racks in the middle of the car parking area, something I was not comfortable with, knowing that the ferry made stops at other islands before Santorini. Just exactly who was monitoring the luggage?

After heading upstairs, we were directed to our large business class seats. Noting a luggage storage rack in the front of the cabin, I immediately headed back downstairs, collected our luggage and brought it back upstairs to our location.

Making myself comfortable…leg rest up…seat back…neck pillow in place…pashmina draped around my legs…I watched the port disappear into the distance.

As I was hypnotized by the rocking of the ferry, the rolling waves, and the passing landscapes, my eyes grew heavy.

Four more hours and we will have made it to Santorini. By ferry.

And yes, it wasn’t that hard!

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Ferry Booking Websites

One Last Thing

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Our feet were tired and we were hot and thirsty.

But…there was “one last thing” that I wanted to see on our way back to our hotel.

The Ancient Agora of Athens.

I had been here many years ago, but only remembered that it was during the winter and I was so cold that I cut our visit short. What was within the gates? I didn’t remember any of the major landmarks, only walking through some of the small ruins.

Having had such a long day, I think that if my husband and son had realized how much there was to do and see here, I don’t think they would have agreed to this “one last thing”. Nevertheless, our entry was free with the Combined Ticket we had purchased with our admission to the Acropolis, so I was determined that we would get our money’s worth!

The grand Stoa of Attalos, closest to the entry gate was where we decided to begin our exploration of the area. This column-fronted building is a remarkable example of Hellenistic architecture, fully restored from 1952-1956, and contains the Museum of the Ancient Agora.

The stoa, dating back to 150 BC, was built by Attalos II, the ruler of Pergamon, as a gift to the city of Athens for the education he received there. It was thought to have once operated as a commercial center with shops on each floor. Built of marble and limestone, it was much larger and elaborate than most of the buildings constructed in ancient Athens and exhibited different types of architectural orders. As we walked through the colonnades, on the main floor we noticed that the Doric order was used for the exterior and Ionic for the interior. Similarly, on the upper floor, the exterior was Ionic and the interior, Pergamene. Moving throughout the building, even with the intense heat of the day, the building was well lighted and ventilated through doorways and small windows.

The museum was especially interesting with it collections of clay, bronze and glass objects, coins, inscriptions from the 7th to the 5th century BC and pottery from the Byzantine period and Turkish conquest. Most captivating were the detailed sculptures depicting some of the Athenian citizens…so detailed in some cases that you almost expected movement. Also related in great detail, throughout the museum, is the history of the Agora area and how it developed over the ages.

Once our visit to the museum was complete, we moved out into the Ancient Agora, the area where Athenians would often gather to trade information and goods. There were many paths among the ruins and much to discover.

Making our way toward the north-west side of the property, we discovered the Temple of Hephaestus, one of the most well-preserved pieces of architecture in the city. Situated atop the Agoraios Kolonos hill, construction on the building began in 449 BC and took almost three decades to complete as attention to building the Parthenon took priority.

The temple, dedicated to Hephaestus, the ancient god of fire and Athena, goddess of pottery and crafts, had a variety of uses over the years, resulting in the buildings continual upkeep. It’s longest purpose, however, was serving as the Greek Orthodox church of Saint George Akamates from the 7th century until 1834. Shortly after the arrival of the first King of Greece, Otto I, it was ordered that the building be used as a museum. It remained in this capacity until 1934, when it was reverted to the status of ancient monument.

The building’s grounds are well kept and heavily planted with shrubs and a well-paved walkway around its perimeter. As you make your way around the building, be sure to take note of the eastern and western friezes, the grand Doric columns (6 on the east and west sides and 13 on the north and south sides) and the sculptures depicting the labors of Hercules and the Battle of Theseus with the Pallentides, the fifty children of Pallas and the Fall of Troy.

Heading back along the southern rim of the property, we discovered the Church of the Holy Apostles (also known as the Holy Apostles of Solaki). When excavations began on the Ancient Agora in 1931, there were many churches located in the area. All were removed except for this small, Byzantine church, which has been dated back to 1000 AD, one of the oldest in Athens. After extensive restorations, this little church is now one of the highlights of the Ancient Agora with its colorful frescoes and intricate stone work.

With the heat wearing us down, we headed toward the exit. Leaving my husband and son near the exit I made a quick detour, moving toward the Monument of the Eponymous Heroes. This marble podium previously displayed the bronze statues of the ten heroes of the tribes of Athens, Erechtheus, Aegeus, Pandion, Leos, Acamas, Oeneus, Cecrops II, Hippothoon and Aias. Once used as a pulpit where proposed legislation, decrees and announcements were announced, I must admit that I was a bit disheartened to find it in poor condition, only displaying a shell of its former grandeur.

As I spotted my husband and son waiting patiently for me under the shade of a large tree, I stopped quickly to inspect Odeon of Agrippa statues that remain as the only part of the concert hall that once stood in the center of the Ancient Agora. Built in 15 BC, it was a gift to the people of Athens from Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa (Roman statesman and general) and was able to seat crowds of 1,000. After architectural damage throughout the years, it was finally destroyed by the Herulians in 267 AD.

Thinking about he destruction of the Odeon of Agrippa, I thought about how many times the Agora was destroyed and rebuilt over the centuries. Abandoned and forgotten, it was finally brought to light when excavations began in 1931.

Learning so much more on this visit than on my previous, I was glad that I had dragged my husband and son here. It is strange to think that only eighty-eight years ago, the citizens of Athens did not know that this site would someday become a place for thousands of tourists to wander about, learning about the commerce of the ancient Athenians.

Though we were ready for a nap and a cold shower, I was glad that we had made the detour and that my family had agreed to my impulse.

Sometimes that “one last thing” is the thing you remember most.

Other notable sites within the Ancient Agora:

  • The Ruins of the Tholos
  • The Propylon to the Bouleuterion
  • The surviving torso of a statue of the Roman Emperor Hadrian
  • Ruins of the Metroon
  • Great drainage canal on the agora
  • The Altar of Zeus Agoraios
  • The ruins of the civic offices.
  • The Klepsydra (water clock used to time speeches).
  • Southeast Fountain House
  • Remains of the Triangular Shrine
  • Two noteworthy ancient streets, The Road to Pireas and the street of the marble workers.
  • The ruins of the state prison
  • The Dekasterion (court house)
  • The NE Bath
  • The Middle Stoa

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Ancient Agora of Athens

  • http://odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh355.jsp?obj_id=2485#_=_
  • Address: Adrianou 24, Athina 105 55, Greece
  • Hours: November to March, 0800-1500, April to October, 0800-2000, daily
  • Admission: Adult, €8.00, Reduced rate, €4.00, Children under 18 years, free. Combination ticket, includes admission to Acropolis, Temple of Zeus, Ancient Agora, Roman Agora, Hadrian’s Library, Keramikos Cemetery and Lyceum of Aristotle, €30.00

 

The Sermon on the Hill

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

“Now what you worship as something unknown I am going to proclaim to you. The God who made the world and everything in it is the Lord of heaven and earth and does not live in temples built by hands.”

These words were spoken by the Apostle Paul during his sermon on Areopagus Hill in Athens. This sermon (Areopagus sermon, Acts 17:24) was responsible for the conversion of his first believers, Dionysios Areopagitus and a woman, Damari. After his conversion to Christianity, Dionysios was baptized with his family in 52 AD and became the first Bishop of Athens. Upon his death as a Christian martyr by burning, he was later venerated as a saint in the Catholic and Eastern Orthodox churches and became the Patron Saint of the city.

Such an important piece of biblical history, there are many who do not realize that the place that this sermon took place is located just below the Acropolis. Between the Acropolis and the Ancient Agora this hill is one that many, upon the descent from the Acropolis, head over to climb, because, well…they see everyone else doing it.

It does offer outstanding views of the city, the Ancient Agora and the Acropolis, but many do not realize its significance.

In Greek mythology, Areopagus Hill was the place where the council of gods held a trial for the god of war, Aris, who was accused of the murder of the son of Poseidon, Halirrhothios. In Greek history, it was the location of murder trials and also the location where Mycenaean graves were discovered. Religious buildings once stood on top of the hill but were eventually decimated by earthquakes.

Today, at any given time, you can spot large numbers of people shuffling around on the slippery apex, hoping to get the best views of the city and the best selfies with the Acropolis towering over them. The hill is easily accessible from steps carved into rocky hillside and from a metal staircase located on the left-hand side of the hill.

Words of warning…the steps are quite slippery, but its an amazing place to gather your where-abouts and admire the views.

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Areopagus Hill

The Birthplace of Democracy

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Coming off of our exploration of the Hill of the Muses or Philapappou Hill, we continued walking the paths of the city’s alluring green space, making our way from one hill to the next…the Pnyx.

The birthplace of democracy.

From 508 BC, Pnyx Hill was the meeting place of the Democratic Assembly. Citizens assembled here ten times a year to make political decisions and take note of the orators speeches, including those of Aristides, Demosthenes, Pericles and Themistocles.

As I walked from Philapappou Hill, I encountered a small rocky hill surrounded by parkland. A large flat platform of eroded stone was set to one side with steps carved into the slope. The podium, or Bema, offered a raised area for leaders to address the crowds who were seated in a semicircle, first on the ground and then later on wooden benches which were installed to accommodate the growing crowds.

The first question posed to the crowd was always an open invitation, “Tis agoreuein Bouletai?”

“Who wishes to speak to the assembly?”

As the acceptance of democracy spread, crowds grew from 5,000 to more than 13,000, finally outgrowing the Pnyx and moving to the Theater of Dionysus at the base of the Acropolis.

The Bema is cordoned off for protection, however, make sure to climb to the top area where you can find the former locations of the Sanctuary of Zeus Hypsistos, the Altar of Zeus Agoraios and Meton’s Solar Clock.

As we continued on toward the exit of the Pnyx, we located the retaining Wall of Pnyx built during the Hellenistic period and which offered protection to the area. Other items of interest, not to be missed, are the Sanctuary of Pan and the Fountain of Pnyx.

The Sanctuary of Pan was a religious shrine on the south slope. Not one to display monumental or architectural embellishments, it was a simple chamber which exhibited a relief, representing semi-God Pan, a naked Nymph and a dog. Outside of the doorway of the shrine, an ancient mosaic is protected by plexiglass.

Sanctuary of Pan

The Fountain of Pnyx is also located nearby, and dates back to the 6th century. This fountain is a rock-carved cistern which collected and stored water for the city of Athens. Though you are unable to view it up close, the chamber is covered with a mosaic floor.

Though we viewed both of these from outside the park’s gates, this seemed to offer the best viewing area.

Since the both hills, Philapappou and Pnyx, are connected, make sure to continue your walk to encounter all that both have to offer. You can even continue up to Nymph Hill which houses the National Observatory during the evening hours.

If time is not of the essence and you’ve seen Athen’s major sights, it is worth the time to take a leisurely walk and encounter many of Athens off-the-beaten-track bits of history.

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Pnyx Hill

  • Address: Athens 117 41, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Thission stop
  • Sanctuary of Pan
  • Address: Apostolou Pavlou 1, Athina 118 51, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Thission stop

Fountain of Pnyx

  • Address: Apostolou Pavlou, Athina 118 51, Greece
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Thission stop

Always 3:01

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Who doesn’t love a yacht?

Having vacationed in many a seaside destination, I have seen plenty yachts of different sizes and value, but never had the privilege of seeing the opulence and splendor that exists on the interiors.

While in Edinburgh, I discovered that I could find out exactly how the Queen of England lives!

The Royal Yacht Britannia is the former royal yacht of Queen Elizabeth II, in service from 1954 until 1997 and traveling more than a million nautical miles around the globe. The now retired vessel is permanently moored in Leith, a few miles from Edinburgh’s city center and is one of the country’s most popular tourist attractions.

The journey to reach the Royal Britannia was a relatively easy one. There are many different bus lines that travel from Edinburgh to Leith and as luck would have it, there was a bus stop for one of them about a block and a half away from my hotel.

As I sat in the top section of the double decker bus, I watched the weather go from bad to worse as the grey skies opened up giving the city a good washing. Good thing I would be inside, right?

The bus ride was a quick and easy one with the last stop being at the Ocean Terminal Shopping Centre. Following the signs through the mall, it was easy to find the entrance to the museum that preceded the ship’s visit.

Making my way through the exhibition, it was interesting to experience the many facets that made the Britannia what it was at the time, including uniforms, awards and stories about the royal family and crew.

Finally, it was time to make our way to the ship itself at 3:01 in the afternoon.

Starting from the upper level, we crossed a gangway to the ship’s control center, exploring the space where the captain navigated the high seas. We were free to explore the outdoor area, however, my theory of being indoors was shot down as a nice walk around the upper deck was out of the question with the rainy weather.

Moving downward through the attached stairwells to each if the five levels, we were able to explore both the living quarters of the royal family, including the Queen’s Bedroom and the State Dining and Drawing Rooms which hosted grand receptions for kings, queens, presidents and prime ministers throughout the world, all appointed in the rich (and sometimes flowery) style that the Queen appreciates.

The Royal yacht crossed the globe many times with a total of 696 foreign visits, only of which 272 were in British waters. From sailing the newly opened Saint Lawrence Seaway (with a stop in Chicago), to evacuating refugees during the war in Aden, the Britannia sailed 1,087,623 miles during its time in service. The ship even carried the newly married Prince Charles and Princess Diana on their honeymoon, traveling from Gibraltar, Tunisia, Sardinia, Greece and Egypt.

The crew quarters were located in the lower reaches of the ship and were a stark contrast to the spaciousness enjoyed by visitors to the ship on the upper levels. There were, however, some areas outfitted a bit more elaborately for senior members of the crew.

The crew of Royal Yachtsmen consisted of volunteers from the general service of the Royal Navy with officers being appointed for up to two years. The volunteer yachtsmen could serve for one year and then be admitted to the “Permanent Royal Yacht Service” and serve until they chose to leave or were dismissed. With that being said, many served for twenty years for more.

When the Labour Party replaced the Conservative government in 1997, it was revealed that the Royal Yacht would be retired and no replacement built. The last foreign mission of the Britannia was to convey the last governor of Hong Kong and the Prince of Wales back to Britain after Hong Kong was handed back to the People’s Republic of China on July 1, 1997.

Six months later, the Britannia was decommissioned with most of the senior members of the Royal Family in attendance.

It was said the the Queen (normally stoic) may have shed a tear. Or two.

Since being docked at the Ocean Terminal, the yacht has received more than 300,000 visitors per year and also acts as an event venue, hosting parties and affairs for the rich and famous.

While visiting, make sure to check out the Queen’s Rolls-Royce Phantom V state car and the 1936 racing yacht, Bloodhound, once owned by the Queen and Prince Philip. Also, take a few moments to visit the Royal Deck Tea Room to enjoy a scone and tea. Though I am not a fan of tea, I was able to enjoy the hand-crafted beer, brewed specifically for the Royal Deck Tea Room.

But be sure to be there at 3:01.

It won’t be hard.

Why?

It’s always 3:01 on the ship’s clocks as this was the time that the Queen last disembarked.

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Royal Yacht Brittania

  • https://www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk
  • Address: Ocean Dr, Edinburgh EH6 6JJ, UK
  • Hours: April to October, 0930-1630, daily. November to March, 1000-1530, daily.
  • Admission: Adult, £16.50, Student and Ages 60+, £14.50, Children (ages 5-17), £8.75, Children under 5, free, Family (2 adults and 3 children), £46.00