vietnam – Page 2 – Snapping The Globe

Hello Hoi An!

Ever been in a taxi and wondering if your taxi driver actually knows where he is taking you? Many people can say, “Yes, of course!”

It was quite early when I said goodbye to the Tu Linh Hotel and headed back to Noi Bai International Airport. I was excited to start the next chapter of my Vietnam travels and my destination was Hoi An.

Turning out of the Old Quarter, I rested my head on my seat and watched the heavy morning traffic outside my window. Suddenly, the taxi driver turned to me and asked a question in Vietnamese. He lifted a paper and pointed to the words Noi Bai International Airport. Guessing that he was asking me if that was where we were going, I was a little perplexed as I knew the hotel had given him instructions to take me to the airport. After a few more exchanges, I realized that he was asking me if I was traveling international or domestic and I stated Da Nang. Realizing that he still was confused, it dawned on me that maybe there were two airports. Oh no! What if he takes me to the wrong one?

A call to the Tu Linh Hotel finally straightened things out. He only wanted to make sure that I was going to the domestic terminal and soon deposited me there safely.

Soaring through the skies on Jetstar Airways, I arrived a short time later into Da Nang International Airport. Thankfully, my driver was waiting for me this time…front and center…and after a rather uneventful drive, we were arriving in Hoi An.

“The cutest hotel I have ever stayed at in the entire world”. This was how my friend had described the Ha An Hotel. Coming from a flight attendant, that is the highest of praise and I knew that there was no other place to stay! Well, he was right! Truly one of the most charming places I have ever seen, I was elated that I had taken his advice. I was ushered to the restaurant where I was served fresh fruit and a frosty drink. The receptionist, sat with me, going over the hotel’s amenities and then informed me that my room was ready.

Walking into my room, I was flabbergasted! I had been upgraded to one of the rooms opening onto the lush courtyard. My room was spacious and extremely well appointed with a large comfortable-looking bed. The bathroom had an open shower with river rock and a marble counter. Wow! Wow! Wow! The thought that ran through my head at that moment was that I was going stay here forever! Oh, well…at least for another couple of nights!

Opening my plantation doors, I peered out into the courtyard. There was a pool table just outside my door and an infinity edge swimming pool in the far corner. The area was beautifully landscaped and the entire hotel complex’s appearance had the feel of an old Caribbean plantation.

As much as I wanted to languish in this exquisiteness, I was anxious to explore the town. Following my map, I headed out of my hotel’s gates and headed toward the Old Town.

Hoi An’s Old Town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 and is a well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port as would have been experienced during the 15th to 19th centuries. There are 1,107 original timber frame buildings and the center of town is restricted to pedestrians, motorcycles and bicycles.

An entrance ticket is actually required to enter the Old Town, however, the ticket is rarely checked except when entering one of the buildings or points of interest that it is required for. It took a few minutes to locate one of the ticket booths, but I soon had a ticket in hand and was anxious to explore the many historic landmarks.

The ticket is valid for 24 hours and allows (with tear-off coupons) entrance to five attractions. Trying to decipher which of the attractions I was going to visit first, was a bit of a task and I decided to start with the closest.

Right around the corner, on Tran Phu Street, was the To Do Tham Quan Pagoda. Entering through the brick front entrance arch, I noticed the Chinese characters that represent the deity to whom the temple is dedicated on each side of the doorway. The central courtyard contained a censer and the temple displayed many Chinese offerings of fruit, cookies and incense near the gold leafed altar. There were many interesting statues and carvings (some protected by glass) and the space was lighted by many large lanterns. The best part about this interesting pagoda was that I didn’t have to use one of my Old Town tickets…it was free to visit.

Without having to check my map, I moved on to the nearby Minh Huong Communal House, with its bright yellow entrance arch, also on Tran Phu and included in the list of the historical attractions with ticket access. Minh Huong was built by Chinese settlers in the late 18th century to worship their ancestors who had founded the Minh Huong village. Deities worshiped here are Thien Hau Holy Mother, the God of Earth and the God of Fortune. Every year, seasonal worship rituals and celebrations dedicated to Minh Huong ancestors are held here in the spring and fall.

Further down the street, was the Confucian Ong Pagoda, also known as the Quan Cong Temple. Located on a street corner near the central market, the 17th century pagoda was easy to find and included in the list of historical attractions, thus requiring a ticket. Dedicated to “Quan Thanh De Quan” (Quan Cong), it was built in 1653 to honor the Chinese general, a prominent figure in the three kingdom era of China. The interior was very ornate and included two huge wooden statues near the altar which should be inspected…one is the the idol of the protector of Quan Cong and the other is the adopted son of the protector. The small front hall contains an altar dedicated to Quan Cong’s guards and is flanked by ritual weapons and objects used for processions.

Rounding the corner, on my way to the Hoi An Museum, I spotted Chua Ba and dashed inside for some pictures. Containing some some small altars and a courtyard, it was nice for a quick visit.

Moving on, I headed to the Hoi An Museum. Anxious to learn about the history of Hoi An, I was a bit dismayed to find that some information was not translated into English. The space has some interesting relics, including bells, a boat and artillery however, it did not feel very welcoming or well displayed. The museum also does not have air conditioning and it was extremely difficult to move throughout the space without searching for a fan to cool off. The admission was included in the Old Town ticket, however, it is one that I would skip on a future visit.

In search of the Japanese Covered Bridge, I came upon the Thong Bao Temple. With free admission, I decided to take a few minutes to inspect the premises. When entering, I was greeted by a large open courtyard with a multitude of statues on the right side of the property. A sign at the entrance, gives many instructions, including standing three meters away from these statues, not pointing at the statues or crossing your arms behind your back when standing in front of the statues. The main building is a large impressive structure with beautiful tile work and ornate columns. If in the area, this temple is certainly worth a look.

Back to my mission, I headed down Nhi Trung Street towards the Japanese Covered Bridge, the most famous tourist destination and the official symbol of Hoi An. There were many visitors both near and on the bridge. The structure was built in the early seventeenth century by the community of Hoi An to create a link with the Chinese quarters across the stream and is a beautiful and unique example of the Japanese architecture of the period. The bridge was constructed with a roof for protection from the sun and rain and contains three Chinese characters above the door, “Lai Ven Kieu” which means “Bridge for passengers by from Afar”. The two sculptures at one end of the bridge, dog and monkey, are sacred symbols in the Japanese cultures. After paying with my admission ticket, I only expected to use the bridge to cross to the other side. Inside, however, I found a small temple which is dedicated to the northern God, Tran Vo Bac De, the God of Weather. Later, I was informed that crossing the bridge was free, and you only had to pay with an admission ticket if intending to visit the temple, however, attendants were stationed at the entrance of the bridge and demanded a ticket upon entry.

After crossing the Japanese Covered Bridge, I continued on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and reached the Cam Pho Communal House. It was nearing the end of the day and there were no other visitors as I entered. Greeted with a bright yellow entrance arch and tall yellow vases and an altar in the central courtyard, I found it to be very similar to the Minh Huong Communal House, including a vestibule, left hall, right hall and main hall. What I loved most were the ridge and gable ornamentation.

After leaving Cam Pho Communal House, I proceeded to walk to the end of Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and make my way toward the waterfront. Walking along the far side of the Thu Bon river, I marveled at the many sculptures, choices of restaurants and hotels and the boats being paddled by local women along the river. Crossing the Hoi An Bridge, and scanning the many restaurants here along the waterfront that were just starting to light up, I realized that my stomach was starting to rumble. Time for dinner!

After freshening up and enjoying a beer on my patio, I realized that with all of the activities I had packed into the day, I was extremely tired. Deciding to look for something close to my hotel, I happened upon the White Lotus. After a delicious meal of seafood filled won tons and shrimp and yellow noodles, I discovered that this delectable restaurant not only serves wonderful food, but it also a non-profit helping those less fortunate. Owned by Project Indochina, an Australian non government aid organization, the profits made by White Lotus are used to fund aid programs that improve of the quality of life of disadvantaged children, their families and communities in Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.

Making my way back across the street to my hotel, I was happy (as were my feet) that I did not have to travel very far. Ready for sleep, I settled in, not sure what the next day would bring. No plans…I was ready for anything…for my second day in Hoi An.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Jetstar Airways

http://www.jetstar.com/us/en/home

Ha An Hotel

http://haanhotelhoian.com/

Hoi An Old Town

https://www.travelfish.org/sight_profile/vietnam/central_vietnam/quang_nam/hoi_an/729
Admission ticket: 120,000 Vietnamese dong (about US $6.00)
The full list of sights included on the ticket is:
Old houses: Tan Ky; Duc An; Quan Thang; Phung Hung;
Assembly halls: Quang Trieu; Trieu Chau; Phuc Kien;
Structures: Japanese Covered Bridge;
Museums: Museum of Trade Ceramics; Museum of Sa Huynh Culture; Museum of Folk Culture; Museum of Hoi An;
Traditional arts: Handicraft workshop; traditional music performance;
Communal houses: Cam Pho; Minh Huong; Quan Cong Temple;

To Do Tham Quan Pagoda

Address: Tran Phu, Hoi An, Vietnam
Admission: free
Open daily, all year long

Minh Huong Communal House

http://www.hoianworldheritage.org.vn/en/news/Monument/Minh-Huong-Communal-House-110.hwh
Address: 14 Tran Phu, Hoi An, Vietnam
Admission: included with Old Town ticket
Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

Quan Cong Temple (Ong Pagoda)

http://hoian-tourism.com/what-to-see/other-relics/the-quan-cong-temple
Address: 24 Trần Phú, Minh An, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Admission: included with the Old Town ticket
Open daily, all year long,0730-1130 and 1330-1730

Chua Ba Temple

Admission: free
Open daily, all year long

Hoi An Museum

https://hoianheritage.net/
Address: 10B Trần Hưng Đạo, Sơn Phong, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Admission: included with the Old Town ticket
Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

Thong Bao Temple

Address: Nhi Trung Street
Admission: free
Open daily, all year long

Japanese Covered Bridge

http://hoian-tourism.com/the-heritage/architecture/japanese-covered-bridge-the-symbol-of-hoi-an
Address: Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai, Cẩm Phô, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Admission: included with the Old Town ticket
Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

Cam Pho Communal House

Address: Phan Chau Trinh, Hoi An, Vietnam
Admission: included with the Old Town ticket
Open daily, all year long, 0730-1130 and 1330-1730

White Lotus Restaurant

http://www.projectindochina.com/white-lotus-restaurant
Address: 11 Phan Bội Châu, Sơn Phong, tp. Hội An, Quảng Nam, Vietnam
Open daily. 0900-2230.
Cooking classes offered.

Hanoi, Leaving No Stone Unturned

The streets of Hanoi were calling…

With so many things left to see in Vietnam’s capital, even though I was exhausted from the long trip the day before, rising early was a must! As I walked along P. Hang Ga, I learned that being up and out early had its advantages…the sidewalks were not as crowded, making it much easier to reach my first destination, Hoa Lo Prison Museum.

Hoa Lo Prison was built in 1896 by the French and was intended to house only 450 inmates. The inmate population eventually exceeded that number, however, and terrible housing conditions resulted. Many died within its confines, but without adequate security, many escaped the prison walls over the years.

The museum focuses mainly on the prison’s use during the French occupation up until the mid-1950s, during Vietnam’s struggle to gain independence. Many displays show the deplorable conditions in which the prisoners lived and the punishments they received. A French guillotine is showcased in one of the rooms and many cells are open for inspection. There is also a memorial in the courtyard dedicated to the Vietnamese prisoners.

Two rooms also concentrate on the American pilots who were incarcerated in the prison during the American War (as it is called in Vietnam). The U.S. POW’s referred to the prison as the Hanoi Hilton and after analyzing the many photos, it seemed as though the American prisoners were treated well, though from prisoners accounts, we have learned that was far from the truth. American pilots that were incarcerated included Pete Peterson (the first U.S. ambassador to a unified Vietnam in 1995) and Senator John McCain (Republican nominee for the U.S. Presidency in 2008). Senator McCain’s flight suit is displayed as well as photos of the Hanoi locals rescuing him from Truc Bach Lake.

After leaving Hoa Lo prison, a short walk took me to the Ambassadors’ Pagoda (Quán Sứ Temple) in the French Quarter area of Hanoi. The well-maintained pagoda is the official headquarters of Buddhism in Hanoi. The pagoda received its name during the 17th century when there was a guesthouse that housed the ambassadors of Buddhism from other countries. Today, residents hold “send-off” ceremonies for the souls of recently deceased family members and government officials frequently make visits to the pagoda.

Deciding to walk a short ways through the French Quarter area, I circled Thien Quang Lake and headed back north to St. Joseph’s Cathedral, stopping to purchase some delicious donuts from a local Vietnamese woman. She obviously thought I need fattening up as she filled the bag completely. I had to ask her to take donuts out of the bag four times to get to the amount that I desired!

Eating my snack as I walked, I soon arrived at the Neo-Gothic Cathedral. Noticing that the main entrance was blocked off, I admired the soaring facade with its twin bell towers and took pictures from its plaza. Assuming that entry was only available during Mass-times, I continued my journey, only to find later that entry was available through the Diocese of Hanoi compound, a block away.

Arriving in the Hoan Kiem Lake area, I first noticed the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. Not quite understanding what a water puppet show entailed, I had heard that the shows were quite nice and something that all visitor’s to Hanoi should see. Proceeding to the ticket counter, I purchased a ticket to the next show. Having more than an hour before my performance, I decided to do a little shopping and visit the Ngoc Son Temple which sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake.

Ngoc Son (Temple of the Jade Mountain) is reached by entering the Tam Quan (Three-Passage Gate) and crossing the red wooden bridge called The Huc (Rising Sun), to the its location on the Jade Islet. In the 16th-18th centuries, a country villa was located on the islet and used by the Trinh mandarins when boating on the lake. In the 19th century, the temple had many different uses, but currently, it is dedicated to Tran Hung Dao, a 13th century Vietnamese national hero, scholar Van Xuong and to Nguyen Van Sieu a Confucian master who restored and expanded the temple in 1864.

There are a few buildings to visit in the temple, the Pen Tower, Dai Nghien, the Moon Contemplation Pavilion and the Pavilion Against Waves, all of which have symbolic meaning. Once you have spent time within the temple, take time to observe the lake from this unique perspective. If you are early enough in the morning, catch the sunrise from the bridge and throughout the day, watch for a giant turtle head floating above the water…a sign of good luck.

Leaving the busy temple, I headed back to the Thang Long Water Puppet Theater. Taking my seat in the middle of the theater, I marveled at the musicians accompanied by the cheo singers who chant the story and warn the puppets of danger. Although I watched closely, I could never figure out how the puppets danced above the water. Reading up on the art of Vietnamese puppetry, I did learn that the guilds closely preserve the secrets of their craft…so, I guess I will never know. Enjoying something I had never experienced. it was also nice to be away from the heat of the day and have a chance to rest my feet.

The next point on my map was Ngôi Nhà di Sản (The Heritage House). A small inconspicuous building on Ma May Street, I actually walked past it a couple of times before realizing its location. One of the few intact remains of an old-style home in Hanoi, it is an excellent glimpse into how Hanoi’s residents once lived.

Further down the street from the Heritage House is the oldest temple in Hanoi, Bach Ma. Also known as the White Horse Temple, it was built in the 11th century by the order of King Ly Thai To, the governor of Hanoi. Everything you see today, however, dates from the late 18th century when the temple was restored. Arriving at the end of the day, the woman in charge of the temple was closing up, but saw me approaching and invited me in. She kindly allowed me to look through the entire building without feeling rushed.

The final things on my Hanoi “To Do” list were not far in the Old Quarter. Navigating the crowded and narrow streets, I first made my way to the Old City Gate. Somehow, I lost my bearings and was not sure which direction to turn. With the help of a shopkeeper, I was pointed in the right direction and soon found the landmark. In 1010, the thick city walls protected the city’s interior and the king and his court. Access to the city was by four gates, only one of which remains today. The gate still stands strong and motorbikes ride through the openings throughout the day.

Walking through the gates, I came to the highway and crossed over using the covered walkway. Spanning 4 km of the Song Hong dyke, is the Hanoi Ceramic Road. Completed in 2010 for Hanoi’s 1000th birthday celebration, it is comprised of scene’s depicting different periods in Vietnam’s history. I first saw this mural upon my arrival into the city and then again while on the bus to Ha Long Bay. It is wonderful to see the craftsmanship up close, though a little disconcerting with the traffic flying by.

Finally, my checklist was complete. Everything that I had set out to do and see in the country’s capital was now stored away in my memory and on my camera’s SD card. It was time to move on. It would be an early morning as I set out for my next Vietnamese adventure…Hoi An.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Hoa Lo Prison Museum

http://hoalo.vn/
Address: 1 Hoả Lò, Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: 0800-1130 and 1330-1700, daily. Self-guided tours, signs in English, Vietnamese and French
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese dong (about US 50 cents)

Ambassadors’ Pagoda

http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/ambassadors-pagoda-hanoi-vietnam/
Address: 73 Quán Sứ, Trần Hưng Đạo, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: free
Modest dress required

Thang Long Water Puppet Theater

http://thanglongwaterpuppet.org/en/
Address: 57b Dinh Tien Hoang Street, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam
Hours: Summer, 1610, 1720, 1830, 2000, Winter, 1500, 1610, 1720, 1830, 2000 and 2115, Sunday morning 0930
Admission: Adults, 100,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $4.50), Children (under 1.2 meter), 60,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $2.70). Assigned seating.

Ngoc Son Temple

http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/ngoc-son-temple-hanoi-vietnam/
Address: Dinh Tien Hoang St., Hanoi 100000, Vietnam, Hoan Kiem Lake
Hours: 0730-1700, daily
Admission: 30,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $1.35)

Heritage House

Address: 87 Ma May Street, Hanoi, Vietnam
Hours: 0830-1700, daily, closed during the lunch hour
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $.50)

Bach Ma Temple

Address: 13 Hàng Giấy, Hàng Buồm, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: 0700-1100 and 1400-1700
Admission: free

Old City Gate

Address: 56 Hàng Chiếu, Đồng Xuân, Hoàn Kiếm Đồng Xuân Hoàn Kiếm Hà Nội, Vietnam, Vietnam
Hours: Open always
Admission: free

Hanoi Ceramic Mosaic Mural

Address: Ấp Thạnh Vinh, Phúc Xá, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Hours: Open always
Admission: free

Ha Long Bay…A Long, Long Day

Despite my indecision, I was finally on my way…to Ha Long Bay!

Picked up promptly at 8:00 a.m., I was one of the first of the group in the tour bus. Being first, however, is not always a good thing. Glancing around and seeing so many seats, I realize one of two things will happen. We either have a small group and many of the seats will not be filled or every seat will be filled and that empty seat next to me will be occupied by another tourist…and indeed, if we are filling the bus, we will probably be picking up passengers for quite some time. Oh well, at least I had a window seat so that I could take pictures as we drove around picking up the others.

After a while, the seats filled, one by one, and our tour guide, Sonny, began asking some people to move to accommodate passengers traveling together. Oh no! Please don’t ask me to move from my window seat! I was getting some great shots! As he walked through the aisle, he glanced my way, but kept moving. A young Japanese woman reluctantly joined me after he asked her to move forward. Thankfully, I was safe at my window!

We continued to drive around the Old Quarter until our bus was full. Finally, we made our way out of the city, heading east, crossing the Red River on the Tranh Tri Bridge, proceeding through the Bac Ninh Province and the lush green rice paddies.

Having been told that it was a three and a half to four hour trip, we all hunkered down, taking naps until we finally reached our halfway point, the Dong Trieu Ceramic and Pottery Village. Stretching our legs, we were able to get drinks and snacks before re-boarding for the remainder of our trip.

After our short stop, the Japanese woman, Masami, who had been napping for most of the trip, struck up a conversation. Wouldn’t you know? She was also a flight attendant! Needless to say, we talked for the remainder of the drive and were fast friends with many things in common.

Eventually, after what seemed like a lot more driving than we were promised, we arrived at Ha Long Bay. From the terminal, we could see the limestone karsts and isles in the distance that have made the area famous and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After a quick rub to Buddha’s belly for luck and a safe journey, we were led to our boat, the Violeto 2. Boarding quickly, we were seated downstairs and served a beautiful Vietnamese lunch consisting of fish, shrimp, morning glory, rice, fruits, salads and many other delectable treats. After our meal was complete, we all anxiously climbed to the top deck where we could feast our eyes on the stunning scenery.

Our first stop was for kayaking and boat rides. Some of the kayaks looked to be in various stages of seaworthiness and we were told that getting wet was a possibility. Since I had my big camera and iPhone in my possession, I wasn’t willing to risk their safety. Masami and I discussed it and decided that we would let someone else do the rowing in one of the traditional bamboo boats. Joining a Filipino couple and a Chinese gentleman, we were a festive group, taking pictures and laughing as we were rowed through openings in the limestone to hidden bays. Such a shame it was, however, that there were so many other rowboats and kayaks to ruin what could have been an amazing and tranquil experience. Still, we enjoyed the views and the very small, colorful floating village that we embarked from and returned to.

After re-boarding the Violeto 2, we began our journey to Dong Thien Cung a large cave located on one of the islands within Ha Long Bay. There were many stairs to climb up the mountain to the entrance of the cave and a large number of other tour groups to navigate around while following our tour guide through the space. The cave was nicely lit and many interesting formations were pointed out to us. Upon our exit, Masami and I were able to get some nice photos on the lookout point.

As we departed from the island, we were assembled downstairs on our boat, once again, for tea and a small snack. The afternoon was drawing to a close and the sun was lower in the sky giving the bay an ethereal quality. Many of us gathered on the upper deck for a few fleeting glances at the emerald waters, exquisite rock formations, fishermen and junk boats while we made our return trip.

Once back on the mainland, we braced ourselves for the long journey back to Hanoi. Arriving at my hotel around 8:30 p.m., I was exhausted but excited for the day’s adventure. Not only had I seen a beautiful part of our planet, but I had made a new friend.

The best part of traveling is not only seeing things that we have not seen before, like Ha Long Bay, but sometimes meeting people from other places and walks of life. Masami and I were both grateful that because of time constraints, we had chosen the day trip to Ha Long Bay. We were also grateful that because of our large group, she was asked to change seats. We may never have had the opportunity to talk as much as we did on our journey!

I plan to return to Ha Long Bay one day and experience its beauty once again and I hope to visit with my new friend in the near future!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.com

Alova Day Cruises

http://alovacruises.com/
Prices vary, but run about $50-60 per person, depending on method of booking. The price includes transportation to and from your hotel in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, bottled water, lunch on boat (beverages not included), snack and English speaking tour guide.
Pickup from 0800-0900 and return from 2000-2100.

Hanoi, Having a Look…

Three forty-five a.m. My eyes pop wide open.

Having been to Asia before, it was no surprise to wake up this early. It had happened quite frequently when I was in Thailand a couple of years ago. The trick was to make use of my time…update Facebook, edit pictures, write blog posts, call home.

The Ha Long Bay cruise, was still weighing heavily on my mind. Still not sure what to do, I called a friend who had done Ha Long Bay as a day trip and asked her for her opinion. She assured me that since there was so much that I wanted to do and see in Hanoi, I would definitely benefit from doing a day trip and that I would not miss out on anything. Yes, it would be a day trip (albeit a long, tiring one) and it would be a much cheaper option, helping to resolve that deficit I was now in thanks to my expensive visa!

Feeling good about my decision, I finally dressed for the day and headed downstairs for breakfast. After some fruit, sticky rice and an omelet, I enlisted the front desk’s help to finalize my booking for my Ha Long Bay trip the next day. Finally, it was all set.

Glad to have the Ha Long Bay dilemma resolved, I gathered my belongings, marched out of the hotel into the congested streets and made my way toward the western part of the city. My plan was to venture northwest of the Old Quarter and begin my exploration at the Ho Tay or West Lake.

Making my way westward along a street behind my hotel, I still marveled at the hoards of motorbikes passing by and admired the locals making deals on their daily produce. Soon, I came to a few stalls that contained piles of some sort of grilled animal. Behind two of these, I noticed women wielding cleavers and cutting the animals into pieces. After taking a closer look, I stopped in my tracks. Were these dogs? Already attracting negative attention as a foreigner with a camera swinging freely around her neck, I didn’t dare lift it to take a picture. I stopped in my tracks, pretended to search for something in my bag, while trying to get a better look. A few negative glances deterred my curiosity, so I walked across the street to another stall with a lady who did not appear so menacing. As sweetly as I could, I inquired as to what kind of animal it was. Not as welcoming as I thought, she proceeded to yell at me to go away, further making me think that these were indeed dogs.

I am sure that I am not the first westerner to walk down this street early in the morning and witness this ritual and I am sure that there have been many animal rights activists willing to give the Vietnamese people a piece of their mind. I decided to keep walking or possibly find myself in a situation that I was not willing to welcome, however, I did find out later that dog is still considered a delicacy in Vietnam. Typically, Vietnamese eat dog meat at the end of the lunar month to get rid of bad luck. Dog is also the go-to dish for drinking parties, family reunions and special occasions. It is said to increase a man’s virility and help provide medicinal cures. Although I vowed at that moment to avoid beef, lest I be served something I was not comfortable with, I was also told that because it is more costly than beef, chances of that happening were extremely rare. Still, I decided that I would be consuming chicken, pork and seafood during my stay.

After my early morning shock and struggling to put it out of my mind, I continued my walk along the streets covered with beautiful old trees and lush greenery. I marveled at the monuments, buildings and churches that I passed and soon, I arrived at my first destination, the Quán Thánh Temple.

The Quán Thánh Temple, formerly known as the Trấn Vũ Temple, is a Taoist temple dating back to the 11th century. One of the four Sacred Temples of the capital, it is a leading tourist attraction in the city. Known for its principle gate and giant banyan tree shading the large yard, it is one of the oldest temples in Hanoi. The shrine contains a famous bronze statue of Trấn Vũ, Deity of the North in Taoism, and in the courtyard, a brick oven which people use to burn fake money believing it will be sent to their ancestors. Finding it very peaceful, I enjoyed my walk around its gardens.

Leaving Quán Thánh, I headed north along Thanh Nién Road which crosses between Ho Tay (West Lake) and Truc Bach Lake. Many may know Truc Bach Lake as the location in which Senator and former presidential candidate, John McCain, landed during the Vietnam War after being shot down.

Trấn Quốc Pagoda lies just off of Thanh Nién Road on a small island near the southeastern shore of Ho Tay and is the oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi, constructed in the sixth century. A favorite sightseeing location of kings and lords of Vietnam, it lured these nobles because of its tranquility, serenity and stunning scenery.

Walking along the palm tree lined bridge connecting the pagoda’s island to the mainland, the view of the red pagoda against the green water of Ho Tay is spectacular. The front yellow gates are impressive with its massive wooden doors. Immediately to the left of the entrance, is one of the main parts of the Trấn Quốc Temple as it holds important monk’s ashes of whom have resided at the Trấn Quốc Pagoda for centuries. The monumental stupa, red in color, which symbolizes luck and prosperity and visible from afar, was erected in 1998 and is comprised of 11 floors each displaying a vaulted window holding a statue of Amitabha made from gemstone. The top of the stupa offers a nine-story lotus, also from gemstone.

The Trấn Quốc is also known for its priceless antiques, dating back hundreds of years. The worshiping statues in the front house are meticulously engraved and polished by skillful craftsmen. The most outstanding of the bunch is “Thích ca thập niết bàn”, which has been assessed as the most beautiful statue of Vietnam.

If you can visit this remarkable pagoda at the end of the day, it is renowned for its sunset views.

After my visit to the Trấn Quốc Pagoda was complete, I made my way back from the way I had come, passing the Quán Thánh Temple and headed toward the Presidential Palace.

The Presidential Palace, built between 1900-1906 for the French Governor-General of Indochina by August Henri Vildieu, incorporates Italian Renaissance design and lush landscaping throughout the premises. Although you cannot enter the actual palace, currently used for government meetings, you can see it from a relatively close distance. There are many other items of interest on the grounds including a traditional Vietnamese house on stilts, the house where President Ho Chi Minh lived and worked from 1954 to 1958, a garage of Ho Chi Minh’s cars and a grand carp pond.

Leaving the Presidential Palace, I set out to visit the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum located nearby in Ba Dinh Square. Although the attraction is closed from September through November each year for renovation and is the time when Ho Chi Minh’s body is sent to Russia for re-embalming, you can get a great view of the building from the area where Ho Chi Minh, Chairman of the Communist Party of Vietnam (1951-1969) read the Declaration of Independence on September 2, 1945, establishing the Democratic Republic of Vietnam.

Near Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and Ho Chi Minh’s Museum lies the One Pillar Pagoda or Chùa Một Cột. This pagoda dates back to 1049 when Emperor Ly Thai Tong had it constructed as a way to express his gratitude to the young peasant girl he married, bearing him a son and heir. The pagoda was built to resemble a lotus blossom and is built of wood on a single stone pillar. The pagoda was destroyed by the French in 1954, but was rebuilt by the new government.

Although my guide book stated that an entrance fee was required, I wandered freely through the pagoda and the adjacent area. This location has many vendors for decently priced souvenirs, snacks and drinks and is a great place to take a break for a short time before continuing on.

My next stop in this fascinating city was the Temple of Literature. This temple is one of many in the city dedicated to Confucius but is also the site of Vietnam’s first university, established in 1706. I wasn’t quite sure what to expect here, but was not disappointed.

Entering through the imposing tiered gateway I was greeted with formal gardens before reaching the Khue Van pavilion and a beautiful fish pond known as the Well of Heavenly Clarity. The area encompassed by the temple is quite large and their are many displays of traditional Vietnamese architecture as well as a low-slung pagoda and numerous statues of Confucius and his disciples. The temple honors Vietnam’s finest scholars and those of literary accomplishment.

As I departed from the Temple of Literature, many school girls were arriving wearing Ao Dai (traditional Vietnamese dress) hoping to take pictures in front of and around the Temple of Literature and seemingly celebrating a success (possibly graduation). It was a sight to behold with the many colors and with their beautiful figures.

Taking a few minutes to grab some lunch at a nearby cafe, I discovered that France is not the only place to get great bread. Though France departed Vietnam in 1954, after one hundred years of colonial rule, they left behind the expertise of unbelievable baking! If you’ve ever had a good ham and cheese baguette in Paris, you’re sure to find one equally appetizing or better in Vietnam!

With aching feet and the clock fast approaching the five o’clock hour, I realized that my final stop in Hanoi, that day, was going to be the Thang Long Royal Citadel.

As I entered the area near the Citadel, I found that an exhibition was taking place in conjunction with the 62nd anniversary of Hanoi Liberation Day. Walking through the grounds, there were many exhibits and colorful displays. The tunnels on the Đoan Môn gate were blocked due the exhibition, but I was able to enter the complex through an adjacent gate. After paying my admission, I was able to climb to the top of the gate and walk throughout the structure. From the top, I had amazing views of the festivities below. This gate is the remaining relic of the ancient Forbidden City.

Walking throughout the UNESCO Heritage site (since 2010), it is easy to see why this complex is a source of great pride to the people of Hanoi and the Vietnamese people. The grounds are lush, green and extensive, although many of the original buildings were destroyed by the French.

15th century stone dragons can be found decorating the steps to what was once Kinh Thien Palace. You can also visit Hau Lau (Black Tower) and Cua Bac (Northern Gate) at the back of the complex as well as the Princess Tower and the Military Operation Bunker.

From the front of the grounds, you see the Flag Tower of Hanoi which is frequently used as a symbol of the city. Built in 1812, during the Nguyen Dynasty, the tower, was spared from destruction during the French colonial rule as it was used as a military post. I inquired as to visiting the tower but was told that it was not open to the public. After my visit, however, I discovered that although most people consider it a part of the Citadel, it is actually part of the Military History Museum. Perhaps I was told that it was not open that day or perhaps I was mistakenly told that it was not open to the public…the language barrier may have contributed to not being able to visit this landmark.

Realizing that the day was drawing to a close, I decided that it was time to head back to my little hotel room in the Old Quarter for a shower and dinner. Exhausted, I was dreading the long walk. After being approached by a motorcyclist and offered a ride to my hotel, I decided to take him up on his bid. Shortly after taking my seat behind him, however, I wondered what I had gotten myself into! Turning his motorbike around and heading into traffic until he was able to get to the street that he wanted, I wondered if he actually knew how to navigate the streets. We continued on…many motorbikes immediately to our left and right and the occasional bus, inches from my shoulder. He made quick work of driving back to the Old Quarter and was soon depositing me at the door of the hotel.

After my harrowing journey, it was time to relax, have a calming drink, eat a delicious dinner and ready myself for my long day to Ha Long Bay the next morning! Reflecting on my day’s adventures, I was amazed that I had braved the streets of Hanoi, even on the back of a motorbike, and seen so many beautiful and inspiring things, however, I realized that I had seen only half of what the city had to offer. There was so much more still to explore. Glad that I had decided on the one day cruise to Ha Long Bay, I was now free to explore the rest of Hanoi’s treasures on my return.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Quán Thánh Temple

Address: Ngã 3 giao cắt và, Thanh Niên, Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hanoi, Vietnam
Admission, 10,000 Dong (about 50 cents U.S.)
Opening Hours: 0500-1900

Trấn Quốc Pagoda

Thanh Niên, Trúc Bạch, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Admission, free
Opening Hours: dawn til dusk

Presidential Palace

http://vpctn.gov.vn/Pages/trangchu.aspx
Address: No 1 Hoang Hoa Tham street (Red Gate), Ba Dinh District, Hanoi 10000, Vietnam
Admission: 40,000 Dong (about U.S. $1.80)
Opening Hours: 0700-1700

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/ho-chi-minh-mausoleum.html
Address: Ba Dinh Square, Hanoi 100000, Vietnam
Admission: free
Opening Hours: Summer Hours, 0730-1030, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 0730-1100, Saturday and Sunday. Winter Hours, 0800-1100, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 0800-1130, Saturday and Sunday. Closed September 4 through November 4.
Modest Dress required

One Pillar Pagoda (Chùa Một Cột)

http://www.vietnamtourism.com/index.php/tourism/items/241
Address: Chùa Một Cột, Đội Cấn, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Admission: 25,000 Vietnamese Dong (about $1.12)
Opening Hours: 0600-1800, daily

Temple of Literature

http://vanmieu.gov.vn/
Address: Quoc Tu Giam Street, Hanoi, Vietnam, VN
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. 45 cents)
Opening Hours: 0830-1130 and 1330-1630

Thang Long Royal Citadel

http://www.hoangthanhthanglong.vn/
Address: Quán Thánh, Ba Đình, Hanoi, Vietnam
Admission: 30,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. $1.34)
Opening Hours: 0830-1130 and 1400-1700

Flag Tower of Hanoi

https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/hanoi-flag-tower.html
Address: Lê Hồng Phong, Điện Biên, Ba Đình, Hà Nội, Vietnam
Admission: 10,000 Vietnamese Dong (about U.S. 45 cents) Admission to Military Museum, 30,000 (about U.S. $1.34)
Opening Hours: 0800-1130 and 1400-1600 Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, Saturday and Sunday.

Heading to Hanoi!

After a few frantic weeks of planning and stressing, I had finally made it to Vietnam..all by myself. I must admit, as adventuresome as I am, I was a bit nervous about being alone in a country that I knew virtually nothing about.

Getting to Vietnam is not an easy feat. An extremely long trip, most treks from the United States involve stops in other cities…Hong Kong, Taipei, Seoul, Manila…before continuing to Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi. My exhausting, five-flight journey, beginning in Richmond, Virginia, would take me to Atlanta, Seattle, Narita, Bangkok and finally, Hanoi and encompass four days!

Early on in my travels…still looking fresh!

Once I had arrived in Bangkok, I set about to book my flight for the next day. Being that I preferred to leave for my return through Singapore, I desired to work my way from north to south, thus ending in Ho Chi Minh City, a closer (and cheaper) flight to Singapore.

Bangkok has two airports, Suvarnabhumi (or the Bangkok International Airport) and Don Mueang International Airport. Both offer flights to Vietnam, but since I had just arrived into and was staying overnight near Suvarnabhumi, I opted to fly from there to Hanoi.

Shortly after the noon hour, I was on my way. Just under two hours later, we were pulling into Noi Bai International Airport.

Having arranged transportation to my hotel, I walked quickly, visa approval letter and forms in hand, to the immigration area to secure my visa. Second in line, I handed everything over to the official and was instructed to take a seat and wait for my name to be called. Carefully, I counted out twenty-five dollars to hand over for the visa stamp fee and five minutes later, my name and picture appeared on the large monitor over the counter. Walking up to the desk, I was handed my passport with my new visa pasted in securely and instructed to pay one hundred and thirty five dollars! Thinking there was a mistake and given a multi-entry visa instead, I let the official know that I had only required the single entry tourist visa. Big shocker! The U.S. and Vietnam have changed the visa procedure, effective August 2016, to a one year, multi entry type with a stamp fee of $135 for all visitors…and somehow, I had missed this information. Well, this was a big blow to my $100 per day allowance!

Trying not to let it get me down, I pulled out the additional $110 and reluctantly handed it over. Safely putting away my passport, I proceeded through immigration, collected my suitcase and exited to the arrivals hall.

Looking for my driver, was the next hurdle. It didn’t seem as though any of the people awaiting passengers with pre-arranged pickup were extremely interesting in them seeing their names on the signs they were supposed to be holding up. Walking among them, bending over and trying to read signs that were folded over while they sat looking at their phones, I began to panic a little as nothing I saw contained my name. Another two rounds among them and I was now sure that my name was not on one of those signs, and, not seeing any phone companies in this area where I could purchase a sim card to make a call, left me wondering what to do. Thankfully, I was able to log into the airport WiFi and use Skype to call my hotel. At the moment that I informed the front desk that my transportation had not arrived, he magically appeared in front of me. Whew! A few moments later, we were on our way in air conditioned comfort to the Tu Linh hotel.

Unfortunately, I had allowed my driver to put my carry-on bag in the trunk which contained my DSLR camera. As we traveled to the city center, there were so many sights that I was unaccustomed to seeing and I wanted to capture them all. Using my Iphone, I was able to get a few, though not of the quality that I would have preferred.

After a forty-five minute ride, we began driving through the narrow, congested streets of the Old Quarter. People were everywhere on sidewalks…eating, cooking, squatting. Motorcycles, cars and bikes fought for space as they passed though the area.

My hotel was like all of the buildings in the area…narrow and tall, as at one time, buildings attempted to minimize taxes because each property was taxed according to the width of the street-facing facade.

Greeted by a friendly young woman, I was given my key and helped to my room by the bellman. Small, but clean, my bed filled the space but my room had everything that I needed, a refrigerator, large television, safety deposit box, hairdryer and hot water.

Since I had only booked my room for one night, I headed downstairs to inquire about trips to Ha Long Bay, which I was hoping to book for the next day. At this point, I was still on the fence about the overnight trip. Although it had been highly recommended to me, others had written about not settling for the cheaper cruises and because I was a solo traveler, I was also subject to a higher rate for occupying a double cabin. Additionally, I was concerned about being an individual on a boat with couples and whether or not it would be an awkward situation, especially during the downtime in the evening. Perusing the many books that were given to me by the front desk attendant, I found it extremely confusing to mesh the price with the amenities. Finally, giving up, I headed out to walk around, find a grocery store and check out the area.

My first lesson in the city was how to cross the street. Basically, there is no right way. Terrified, it took me about ten minutes to muster the courage to dart between the masses of motorcycles and cars speeding through the streets. At one point, I stuck close to an old woman, because I was sure that they would never hit her. You know, they really do respect their elders! Another challenge was navigating the sidewalks…oh wait, you couldn’t! Motorcycles were parked everywhere, defeating the purpose of the sidewalk. Basically, you had to walk along the curb, once again, dodging traffic. I felt completely drained trying to make my way through the area.

After finding the grocery store and stocking up on diet coke, water, beer and a sim card for my phone, I headed back to my hotel. Exhausted, I told myself that I would just lie down for a few minutes to regain my composure. An hour later, I was still there, trying to convince myself that I could just skip dinner and get some rest. Knowing full well that I would be awake at three a.m. dying of hunger and counting down the hours until breakfast, I forced myself up and out the door in search of nourishment. But, first, there was that pesky problem…I still had not booked my Ha Long Bay cruise. Deciding to book another night at the Tu Linh, I gave myself a reprieve and resolved to take a day to explore the city instead. It would also give me the opportunity to gather a bit more information on the Ha Long Bay cruises.

Setting out and walking the three blocks to the street where it was recommended that I eat, I scanned the area for restaurants that appeared to be tourist friendly. Every single one was packed…with locals. Turning right, I walked to another street and then left, hoping to see restaurants with western faces. Finally, I noticed one with other tourists inside. Opening the door, I was met with a friendly greeting and shown to a table. Giving my drink order, I was also met with a question, “And one Cha Ca?” Huh? “One Cha Ca?” I glanced down at the menu and realized that that is the only thing they serve. Okay then. One Cha Ca for me.

Reading the description on the menu, I discovered that it is a specialty of the Hanoi people made from mudfish, snakehead fish or Hemibagrus, a type of catfish. The fish bones are removed, it is covered by banana leaves, seasoned and grilled over a coal heat. The Cha Ca must remain hot, so the servers continually come to the table to reheat and reserve. The Cha Ca is served with roasted peanuts, rice noodles, dill, spring onion, coriander, mint, shrimp paste or fish sauce. And boy was it good!

After looking it up when I returned home, guess what? I just so happened to stumble upon the restaurant in Hanoi that is famous for this dish! Gotta love it when that happens! So, after all, my long, stressful day ended on a positive.

Finally, wandering back to my little hotel, I began to feel more at ease with the busy streets of Hanoi. After a good night’s rest, I was sure that I would be ready to tackle the many sights and attractions that this city was willing to offer.

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Hanoi

Getting there: Delta Air Lines flies from Atlanta, Detroit, Minneapolis, Los Angeles, Portland and Seattle to Narita International Airport. Although flights to Bangkok will be discontinued at the end of October, you can fly to Singapore and connect to Tiger Air, Jetstar and Vietjet Airlines (non-stop) to various cities in Vietnam. Many other airlines fly from cities in the U.S. making connections in Seoul, Hong Kong, Manila and Taipei.
Where to Stay: Tu Linh Palace Hotel, 2 Hàng Gà, Hàng Bồ, Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội, Vietnam. This hotel is in the Old Quarter and near the Đồng Xuân Market and the Night Market open on weekend nights. There are many hotels in the Old Quarter which are extremely tourist friendly. Try the Agoda app which gives the best prices for hotels in Asia.
Where to Eat: Chả Cá Thăng Long, 21 Đường Thành Cửa Đông Cửa Đông Hoàn Kiếm, Hồ Hoàn