Arusha, Here We Come!

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The prospect of getting to Africa is a daunting one!

Having booked our flights many months before, the time had finally come to pack our bags and make our way to the start of our safari.

Our flight from New York to Istanbul was uneventful, if not a long one.  Movies and a nap helped pass the time and I was quite comfortable in economy class with the help of my new neck pillow and foot sling.  Before long, we were landing in Turkey, gazing longingly at the skyline, wishing I had time to visit the Bazaar (how I miss Istanbul’s shopping!)  After a three hour sit, we boarded our plane and were landing in Kenya six hours later, making our way through customs and immigration quickly.

Since our arrival was at 2:30 in the morning and we were departing on the Riverside shuttle a short six hours later, we had a decision to make…find our way to a nearby airport hotel for a short nap and a shower or search for a quiet  corner to make ourselves comfortable for our brief stay.  Well, six hours isn’t that long, so we opted for the latter!

Making our way out of Terminal 1D, we began looking for a cafe that we could have a bite to eat and hang out.  Paul Caffe was near the main part of the airport, and after entering, we discovered that many other people were spending time and even taking naps (which the workers did not seem to mind).  Ordering a couple of sodas, we found a table with outlets nearby to charge our devices.  After having breakfast a little later, we found very clean bathrooms just around the corner and were able spread out our things, change clothes and take a quick sponge bath.

Nairobi Airport

Before we knew it, it was almost time to board our bus to Arusha.  Once we made a quick call to their airport contact to confirm our departure, we found that we were actually in the correct spot for Riverside’s pickup.  Peter met us inside of Paul Caffe around 8:30 a.m. and walked us out across the street to meet the waiting bus.

There are a few companies that offer shuttle transportation between Nairobi and Arusha.  We chose Riverside from a recommendation from a friend and because the price was higher than two of the others that I had investigated.  Believing the higher price made the product more desirable, we were a little disappointed to find the bus’ interior to be only adequate.  A few seats were available near the back of the bus and we found the ride to be a bit uncomfortable due to the lumpy seats and the many speed bumps along the highway.  Despite the cramped quarters, however, we were able to take a quick nap before arriving at a rest stop about three hours later.  Given ten minutes to use the facilities and get a drink, we even had time to peruse the many crafts available at the site.

Departing the rest stop, we soon found ourselves at the Namanga border crossing, about 120km from Arusha.  Ushered into the building and lined up against a wall, the process was a bit confusing.  A uniformed officer checked to ensure that each person had a yellow fever immunization card before allowing us to proceed to the window.  Since we had arrived into Kenya, the night before, we were quickly re-fingerprinted and stamped out.  Heading to the exit, we found our bus waiting for us and hastily dodged the numerous Masai women selling bracelets, necklaces and other items.  Driving around to the Tanzanian side of the border, we were required to claim our baggage from the bus and proceed into the building to clear immigration and customs.  Once again, our yellow fever immunizations cards were checked and we were ushered into one of the lines snaking through the new building.  At the window, our immigration forms (given to us by our driver) were handed to the agent and $100 (per person) was paid while our visa was pasted into our passports.  Though we were required to bring our baggage into the building, we were not required to pass it through the x-ray machines nor was it inspected.

Exiting the building, we were once again on our way to Arusha.  The whole process was completed in about an hour and not overly complicated, however, if traveling on your own, expect the border to be the busiest during the hours between 9:30-11:00 and 15:30-16:30 when the shuttle buses are passing through.  Chatting with other passengers and admiring the colorful Maasai villages helped to pass the time quickly and before long we were pulling into the Riverside bus stop.  Directed to board another bus with our luggage, we were then taken the final few blocks to the Arusha Hotel, our home for the next couple of days.

One of the oldest hotels in East Africa, the Arusha Hotel was established in 1894 in the then new and undeveloped town.  Over the years, the hotel was a haven for those traveling from Cairo to the Cape and beyond.  Enduring many changes and improvements over the years, the hotel has retained its status as one of Arusha’s grandest hotels, offering its foremost hospitality to many guests over the years, including the Prince of Wales, Baron Von Blixen and John Wayne, while filming Hatari.

We were extremely pleased to find the hotel beautiful and clean and its staff, most welcoming.  Our room was extremely comfortable and modern, though we had to have our lack of hot water addressed shortly after our arrival.  While waiting for our plumbing issue to be resolved, a short walk around the traffic circle to the small grocery store, directly across from the hotel, ensured that we could stock our refrigerator with soda, beer and have some snacks to munch on, before our nap.

An Airtel office, a block away, was also a convenient find.  Knowing that we would be restricted to WiFi in the lobbies of our lodges during our safari, adding a local sim card to my extra phone ensured that I could be reached in the event of an emergency.   It also allowed me to have access to the internet while we were out and about or in our room.

After a much needed shower and nap, we awakened feeling hungry, but not quite ready to tackle an unfamiliar city in the dark.  Deciding to visit the hotel’s dining room, we discovered that breakfast and dinner was included with our stay.  Usually, in these circumstances, one finds meals to be lackluster, however, we were quite pleased to discover dinner to be quite tasty with a large variety of options on the preset menu.

Finally, retiring to our rooms and closing our mosquito net around us (so Africa-like!), we were in lala land in no time at all!

The next morning, we discovered that most of our group had arrived late the night before.  After introducing ourselves and attending a short briefing about our trip, it was time to hit the market and see what Arusha had to offer.

Though Arusha is a bustling town, it is mainly the starting point for safaris and Kilimanjaro treks.  Taking the time to check out local shops, meet the local people and see a few of it’s attractions will help you to acclimate to this beautiful country.  A few local attractions are listed below and I will cover each in detail in its own post.

The Maasai Market offers the chance to purchase locally, handmade, one-of-a-kind souvenirs as well as sample local cuisine at its onsite cafe.

The Tanzanite Experience museum, though small, is an inviting space which through a guided tour, explains how tanzanite is mined at the foothill of Mount Kilimanjaro.  Many pieces of tanzanite and jewelry set with tanzanite are available for purchase.

The Shanga Market at the Arusha Coffee Lodge, is a unique enterprise employing people with disabilities.  It is most certainly worth a taxi ride and can be combined with the nearby Cultural Heritage Center which contains shops, restaurants, a precious stone counter and one the largest art galleries in Africa.

The Arusha Natural History Museum offers a look at the evolution of humans, fossils and the history of Arusha during the German colonial era.  A colorful market is located in the rear of the premises.

Arusha National Park, the closest National Park to town, doesn’t offer the Big Five, but rather the opportunity to explore a wide array of habitats within a few hours.  Giraffe, leopard, buffalo, and acrobatic colobus monkeys can be spotted here…add that to hiking, kayaking and climbing along with the promise of a view of Kilimanjaro and it it a great way to spend a day.  Though we did not visit this particular park, I wish we had, as many in our group gave it rave reviews!

Overall, we loved our time in Arusha!  The people were friendly and most welcoming, the cuisine delectable and our stay extremely comfortable!  If you are considering a safari in Tanzania, you won’t be disappointed with the your starting and ending point!

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The Arusha Hotel

  • http://www.thearushahotel.com/
  • Address:  P.O. Box 88, Arusha, Tanzania
  • Nightly rates:  Superior, Executive Deluxe and Suites available, $190-$350 per night single or double occupancy

Maasai Market

  • Address:  School Road, Arusha, Tanzania.  Located about a quarter mile from The Arusha Hotel.
  • Hours:  No posted hours, but operates approximately from 0900 until 1800, daily.

Tanzanite Experience Museum

Shanga

  • http://www.shanga.org/
  • Address:  Arusha Coffee Lodge, Dodoma Road, (near Arusha Airport), Arusha, Tanzania
  • Hours:  0900-1630, daily
  • Admission:  free

Cultural Heritage Center

Arusha Natural History Museum

  • http://eol.habari.co.tz/museum.htm
  • Address: Located at the end of the Boma road neighboring the Arusha International Conference Center, the Arusha Municipal Council, and the Arusha Regional Offices.
  • Hours:  0900-1800
  • Admission:  $5.00

Arusha National Park

Topography Of Terror

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Though it came tumbling down in 1989, parts of the Berlin Wall still  stand as a testament to the Cold War era.

One such stretch of the wall is located appropriately enough at the Topography of Terror, an outdoor and indoor history museum located on Niederkirchnerstrasse, on the site in which during the Nazi regime from 1933-1945, buildings housed the headquarters of the Gestapo and the SS.  During Allied bombings in 1945, these buildings were destroyed and the ruins demolished after the war.

The Berlin Wall ran along the south side of the street, previously known as Prinz-Albrecht-Strasse and separated the American and Soviet zones.  Here, adjacent to the Topography of Terror, the longest outer segment, still remaining, can be seen both from within the museum’s grounds and from the outside.

Exhibitions marked the museum’s beginnings on Berlin’s 750th anniversary in 1987.  Shortly after, the cellar of the Gestapo headquarters, a gruesome site of  torture and execution, was located and excavated.  The site, covered at the time with canopies, was turned into an open-aired memorial and museum and detailed the history of repression under the Nazis.  Today, a permanent open-aired museum informs visitors of the timeline of the Third Reich, from Hitler’s rise, to the fall of Berlin, through the use of statistical information, anecdotal clips, photographs and architectural remnants.

Both fascinating and sobering at the same time, the Topography of Terror is worth a look, if not for the information, but for an up-close and personal look at the historical barricade.

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Topography Of Terror

  • http://www.topographie.de/
  • Address:  Niederkirchnerstraße 8, 10963 Berlin, Germany
  • Hours:  Daily, 1000-2000
  • Admission:  free
  • Note:  Additional sections of the Berlin Wall can be seen at and near the Potsdamer Platz.

The Hiding Place

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Amsterdam has the Anne Frank House.  Haarlem has the Corrie Ten Boom Museum.

During World War II, many Jews knew of a hiding place in Haarlem…19 Barteljorisstraat, the site of the Ten Boom family’s watchmaking business.  With the comings and goings of the business’ many customers, it was the perfect hiding place since it did not arouse suspicion.

Corrie, the youngest of the four Ten Boom children, the first female licensed as a watchmaker in Holland and a devout Christian, realized the horrors that were coming to pass in the Netherlands and decided that she and her family had the opportunity to help those in need.

Arriving in Haarlem, I made my way to the Corrie Ten Boom museum near the Grote Markt.  Standing in the alley, I watched the tour guides arrive and enter the museum and other tourists approach and wait patiently behind me in line.  As the clock on nearby St. Bavo’s church chimed the top of the hour, we were escorted into the museum and up the stairs into the Ten Boom’s former living room.

I knew that this was an important museum.  I knew that Jews had hidden here in this home, but among those in my group, I was the only person who had not read Corrie’s book, “The Hiding Place” nor did I really know the story behind it.

Our tour guide narrated a tale for half an hour, detailing Corrie’s childhood, the impending Holocaust and how the family came to assist those in need.  We moved into Corrie’s bedroom and observed the secret room behind the false wall which served to hide as many as seven people at a time, including Jews and members of the Dutch underground.  Additional refugees would stay with the Ten Booms for a few hours or a few days until another “safe house” could be located for them.

Corrie, the ringleader of the underground network, spent much of her time searching for those in need and for those who would take them in and care for them.  It is estimated that approximately 800 lives were saved by the Ten Boom family and their friends.

As we moved throughout the rooms of the museum, we were witness to many photographs and personal items and learned that the family, were eventually betrayed by an informant.  As a result of the betrayal, the entire family was arrested and imprisoned, in Scheveningen Prison and Ravensbruck concentration camp.  Sadly, Corrie was the only survivor of the experience.  After a clerical error resulted in her release, Corrie returned to the Netherlands and decided to continue the ministry that she and her sister Betsy started while in the concentration camp.

Setting up a rehabilitation center in Bloemendaal for concentration camp survivors and the jobless Dutch who had previously collaborated with the Germans, she continued to assist those in need.  Returning to Germany in 1946, she then traveled the world as a public speaker, appearing in more than 60 countries, wrote many books and finally emigrated to Placentia, California before her death at 91 years of age.

The museum, which has been refurbished to appear as it did in the 1940’s, was probably the most humbling and inspiring places I have ever visited.  Though quite small and only open on certain days, it was certainly worth the 15 minute train ride from Amsterdam Central Station, the 15 minute walk from Haarlem Central Station and will be worth the $6.99 purchase price of the Kindle book “The Hiding Place” so that I can learn more about this fascinating woman.

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Corrie Ten Boom Museum

  • https://www.corrietenboom.com/en/the-museum
  • Address:  Barteljorisstraat 19, 2011 RA Haarlem, Holland
  • Hours:  April 1 through October 31, Tuesday through Saturday.  English tours at 1000, 1130, 1330 and 1500.  Tours in Dutch at 1030, 1200, 1400 and 1530.
  • Hours:  November 1 through March 30, Tuesday through Saturday.  English tours at 1100, 1230, 1430.  Tours in Dutch at 1130, 1300 and 1500.
  • Admission:  free, donations accepted at the end of the tour.
  • How To Get There:  From Amsterdam, take the train (15 minutes) from Amsterdam Centraal Station to Haarlem Central Station.  From From Haarlem Central Station, it is a 10-15 minute walk.  Leave the station by the door marked with the word “Centrum”.  Turn right out of the station.  Walk straight to Kruisweg Street.  Turn left and head to the Grote Markt.  Continue on this street until you reach the museum’s address.  Wait in the alley at the entrance door until the tour guide allows the group to enter.  The museum asks that no one wait in the adjacent Ten Boom Jewelry store.

 

 

What’s That Smell?

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Love museums but sensitive to strong odors?

Read no further.  This is not the museum for you!

There are a multitude of museums to choose from when visiting Paris…The Louvre, Musée D’Orsay, Rodin Museum, Galeries Nationale du Grand Palais, Petite Palais…the list goes on.  But what do you do when you’ve been to them all?  What if you are looking for a museum that offers something more unique than sculpture or paintings?

The Musée des Égouts de Paris (The Paris Sewer Museum) is a museum near the Pont D’Alma (Alma Bridge), on Paris’ Left Bank, that concentrates on the history of the city’s sewage and water treatment from its initial development in the 14th century.

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Having been my second visit to this unique, walk through history, I was excited to take my son…after all, what teenaged boy wouldn’t think that going underground in Paris is cool? (and besides…the catacombs were closed!)

Heavy rains had fallen the night before and when we arrived at the ticket kiosk, a few minutes before the scheduled opening, we found the window half drawn and a sign stating that the museum was closed due to flooding.  A worker sweeping water away from the structure, spoke with me in French and with the little bit of the language that I understand, I gathered that maybe it would be open later in the day.

As we stood there, trying to figure out an alternative plan, we watched many people arrive, read the sign and walk away, thus proving what a popular attraction it actually is.

IMG_8239Deciding on a boat ride down the Seine, we were on our return when I noticed that we were approaching the Pont D’Alma bridge.  Taking to the top deck, I watched for the Musée des Égouts’ kiosk…the window was open and there was a small line!

Making our way back to the kiosk and purchasing our tickets, we were soon descending the stairs to the museum.

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The first thing that you notice when entering the museum is the strong smell.  Of course, there are billions of gallons of water, filled with raw sewage, rushing through here each minute, so of course it is to be expected.  Breathing shallowly, I tried not to think about it and enjoyed learning about the workings of the sewer system and just overall being someplace where most people don’t ever get to go!

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The museum showcases equipment used throughout the system and highlights the history of how running water came to be so long ago in Paris.  All signage is in both French and English and the 500 meter path is easy to follow and decently lit.

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At the end of the self-guided tour, there is a small gift shop (in the event your need a stuffed rat, to remind you of your visit) and restrooms.

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For the Paris visitor who has seen it all, the Musee des Egouts is a wonderful way to get a different perspective of the city.  And…for the first time visitor, squeeze it in between your visit to the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower…it takes less than an hour and is something interesting that you can tell your friends at home about!

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Musée des Égouts de Paris

  • http://www.egouts.tenebres.eu/visite.php
  • Address:  Pont de l’Alma, place de la R�sistance, face au 93 quai d’Orsay.
    75007 Paris
  • Hours:  May 1 until September 30, 1100-1700, October 1 until April 30, 1100-1600
  • Admission:  Adults, €4.20, Children (ages 6-16 years), €3.40, Children (under 6), free
  • Getting There:  Metro, Line 9, Alma-Marceau station.  RER train, Line C, Pont de L’Alma station.  Bus, lines 63 and 80 at Alma-Marceau stop.

Museum Time in Mainz

© 2016  Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If you ever find yourself in Mainz, Germany on a Sunday, you may ask yourself, “How on earth will I occupy myself today?”  Yes, everything is pretty much closed on Sundays throughout much of Germany.  Well, not everything…

After a little bit of googling, it was uncovered that the Gutenberg Museum in Mainz is open on most Sundays and can be quite entertaining for a few hours. The history of printing, writing and books is showcased in a three story volunteer-run modern institution.

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Located in the heart of the old part of Mainz near the cathedral, it is one of the oldest museums of books and printing in the world.  Founded in 1900, it was dedicated to Johannes Gutenberg, who in the 15th century ushered in the information age by perfecting movable type.

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Most notable in the gallery are the extremely rare and valuable examples of Gutenberg’s original 42-line bible, kept in a walk-in vault.  Another main attraction is a reconstruction of Gutenberg’s workshop. Museum visitors are shown on the hour (at 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00) how printing was done during the time of Johannes Gutenberg.

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Printing presses spanning a period of several centuries are on display.  Detailed information of European and non-European printing technology and books in the course of centuries as well as the history of paper and writing, the history of newspapers and magazines and bookbinding are also presented.

imageOne section that I found most interesting was the section on the history of printing beginning with the Chinese, Japanese and Koreans.  Very fascinating to see was the Chinese wood blocks used for printing as well as writing on tortoise shells and bone.  The Chinese invented movable type long before Gutenberg, but the thousands of characters required to create written Chinese made the invention impractical. A table, on display in the museum, which contains thousands of Chinese characters in movable type, is most impressive.

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In the museum’s Druckladen (print shop) you can try out Gutenberg’s technology yourself, with instruction on the art of hand-setting type…backwards, of course. Nearby, master craftsmen produce elegant posters, cards and certificates using the labor-intensive technologies of the past.

Either before or after your visit, take some time to see the statue of Johannes Gutenberg outside of the museum as well as the unique printing block sculptures.P1040502(1)

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The tour is self-guided and most exhibits are in English.  If you care for more information, an audio tour can be purchased for €3.50.

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Gutenberg Museum

  • http://www.gutenberg-museum.de/index.php?id=29&L=1
  • Address:  Liebfrauenplatz 5, 55116 Mainz
  • Admission:  Adults, € 5,00, Children (ages 8-18) € 2,00, Children (under 8) free, Family ticket (parents with own children up to 15 years):  € 10.00.  Reduced Fee: € 3.00 applicable for students from 19 years onward; trainees; disabled persons; recipients of Social Security benefits; seniors from 63 years onward; pensioners; conscripts / conscientious objectors undergoing civilian service – corresponding documentation is necessary.
  • Hours: Exhibition Building, Tuesday to Saturday: 9.00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m., Sunday: 11.00 a.m. – 5.00 p.m. Closed on Mondays and on public holidays.
  • Self-guided Audio tour (German, English, French): € 3.50
  • Getting there:  Bus routes 54-57-60-65 and 71 from the central station to the Höfchen bus stop or bus routes 64, 71 from the south central station (Römisches Theater) to the Höfchen bus stop

Wandering…

Wandering is one of my favorite things to do while in many cities. Setting out with a map in my bag, is a necessity only if I am truly lost or just need a little guidance. I love going out with only a general plan in mind. Sometimes you never know what you will find!
Last week, I was in Zurich, Switzerland. Zurich is a very pristine and charming city and I love walking along the river in the Old Town area and along the northern shore of Lake Zurich. The last few times I have been to Zurich, it seems that I have only been there on Sundays. Most shops are closed and the streets are very quiet.
Taking the train into the city center, my goal was to find the free bike rental location. Years ago, I rented a bike from one of these free rental locations and rode along the river with a few of my coworkers. This time, I was alone and decided that I would use my bike to further my wandering.
Finding the bike rental location was a bit challenging and I thought that I would have to abandon my plans, but soon enough, I managed to stumble upon the area in which it was located.

web_zurich_natur-und-sport_zueri-rollt_02https://www.zuerich.com/en/visit/sport/zurich-on-wheels
Many years ago, Züri Rollt Free Bike Rental secured the rental with a driver’s license or identification card, meaning they kept it until you returned the bike. They have now changed the process. They still require an identification card or passport. Your information is recorded and you are given a copy of the form, however, you now keep your means identification. You are also required to pay a $20 Swiss Franc deposit. When returning the bicycle, you give back the copy of the form and your $20 Swiss Franc deposit is returned.
After the formalities, I was finally on my way. Since it was Sunday and there wasn’t much traffic, I found it quite easy to navigate the streets on my way to the lakefront.
With an admiring glance out towards the Alps, I decided to head to the right of the lake. There are many bike and pedestrian pathways along the lake.
After riding for a while, I saw the bike rider in front of me take a left turn. I looked down the alleyway in which she had turned and noticed lots of graffiti. Now, I am a sucker for good graffiti, so I had no choice but to check it out. There was an entryway of sorts and the walls were lined with amazing graffiti. I walked with my bike throughout the area and down along the lakefront. I had no idea what this area was until I asked a local Swiss woman who was walking through the area. She informed me that it was called Rote Fabrik.
Rote Fabrik, or Red Factory, is a former factory in Zurich, which is now used as a music venue and cultural center. It is so named because the buildings are made of red brick, but also because left-wing parties were part of the campaign to turn the location into a cultural center.

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After snapping many photos, I decided to head back to the city, return the bike and wander on foot.
Venturing through Old Town, I passed the Grossmunster and the Church of Our Lady (Fraumunster). Neither were open, but they offer themselves up for many a beautiful photograph. Along the Fraumunster, I spent about 15 minutes photographing the carvings on the side walls.

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Finally, all that cycling had worked up a mighty appetite. Now, if you’ve ever been to Zurich, then you will know how expensive it is. Meals can run, on average $35-40 US (no drinks included). The last time I was in Zurich, we found a cute little place called Thai Bamboo right near the river on a side street. Address: Schoffelgasse 3, Zurich, Switzerland. Previously, I had the Pad Thai, which was good. Compared to other Pad Thai I have had before, I can say that I have had better. This time, however, I decided to try the Red Curry. Oh my goodness! I have been to Thailand and I can tell you that this ranks up there with any Red Curry that I have ever had in that country. The best part was that my Red Curry and two beers came to a grand total of $25! That’s a steal for
Zurich! Now mind you, it’s not a five-star restaurant…you select your meal from a counter-style serving area. You grab your drink from the refrigerated cooler and you seat yourself. But, I will trade all that for a very good meal served at the right price.
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http://www.yelp.com/biz/thai-bamboo-z%C3%BCrich-2

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