Picturesque Phillipsburg

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

St. Maarten is an island divided between two nations…the French and the Dutch.

sxm-pic-borderThe two neighboring countries live in harmony and travel across the border between the two sides is not regulated.  In fact, while driving, if you did not encounter the “welcome” signs as you cross the border, you would not realize the change except for the few features that set them apart.

The island was split into two parts after the Treaty of Concordia in 1648.  The larger, northern part was granted to France (Saint Martin) and the southern part (St. Maarten) was given to the Netherlands.

Many visitors to St. Maarten arrive by cruise ship which docks at the port in Philipsburg, the island’s capital, founded in 1763, by John Philips, a Scottish naval captain.  Visitors enjoy the Dutch side for its casinos and duty-free bargains, art galleries and historic forts, while many visitors flock to the French side for its shops filled with French fashions and imported Gallic goodies as well as its beautiful beaches.

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If you are not arriving by cruise ship, a short drive to visit to Philipsburg during your stay is a must as there are many things to see and do.

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If you are an architecture lover, you will appreciate the many buildings that line Front Street.  As opposed to the French side and its French Colonial and Creole buildings, the colorful half-timbered Dutch houses are the pride of their inhabitants.  As you wander along, these buildings give off an air of friendliness and hospitality with their elaborate carvings and wrought iron balconies.

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imageThe Courthouse, built is 1793, as the home of Commander John Philips, has served as a court for successive governors, a fire station, a jail and a post office during its long existence in the town.  One of the island’s most prominent landmarks, it is easy to spot on the main street.  It is owned by the government of St. Maarten and maintains a spot on the list of major historic monuments.

imageAnother building worth noting is St. Martin of Tours Catholic church.  While the interior is quite plain, the exterior is bright and Caribbean-like maintains a location facing the beach.  Another more impressive church belongs to the Methodists on Front Street.  Sometimes referred to as the Old English or Wesleyan Church, it is a beautiful wooden clapboard structure with light blue accents.  Built in 1978, it replaced the original church which was built in 1851.  The inside is quite interesting with its blue and red accented galleries and wooden walls and ceilings, giving it a ship-like feel.

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Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit at Planet ParadiseIf you are in the mood to get out of the heat and learn a few things, a couple of museums exist in Philipsburg.  The Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit (see my post, “The Yoda Guy”) run by artist and movie effects specialist, Nick Maley, is a fun place for the family and Star Wars fans.  The Sint Maarten Museum is a great place to learn about the island’s rich heritage.

libertytaxdutyfree-bgatesShopper alert!!!  There are many duty free options where you can buy a treasure trove of items.  St. Maarten, a free port, has no local sales taxes, VAT or other indirect prices.  Diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, settings, bands, watches, electronics, perfumes…they are all here.  Make sure you do your homework and be prepared to bargain.

Liquor prices on the island are some of the lowest I have ever seen.  Many cruise ships will tell you that you can bring back five bottles of liquor per person, however, US customs allows one liter per person.

There is also a stall-type craft market that runs to Front Street.  The vendors are extremely friendly, not pushy and willing to bargain.  If you say no…they back off, unlike many other islands that I have visited.  We did find that venturing into Philipsburg ensured better bargains and of course, less congestion, on days when cruise ships were not in port.

Philipsburg, St. Maarten: Souvenir stands in the city's public market. One of the most sophisticated and developed cruise ports in the Caribbean, Philipsburg is known for its multiple high-end jewelry stores and beautiful beach.

Another thing that I absolutely loved about Philipsburg was Great Bay and the beautiful beach that acts as a border between the many cafes and bars and the pristine, blue water.  Tired of walking along Front Street?  Take the boardwalk that runs the entire length of the beach.  Some in your party don’t want to shop?  Get them a chair and an umbrella.  They can refine their tans while you shop til you drop!  Great Bay and its beautiful beach is very unique and sets it apart from many other Caribbean islands that I have visited.

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Whatever you decide to do in Philipsburg…eat, drink, stroll, shop, photograph or tan…you won’t be disappointed.  It may be a cruise port, but one with a distinct character that has much to offer.

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Philipsburg

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A Day in Anguilla

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

There are many islands in the Caribbean, but none with beaches as pristine and white as Anguilla!

Anguilla, a British territory, lies to the north of St. Maarten and consists of the main island of Anguilla and much smaller unpopulated islands and cays.  Only 16 miles long and 3 miles wide at its widest point, it is widely known for its beautiful beaches, sailboat racing and outstanding dining experiences.

Easy to reach by ferry while visiting St. Maarten, you cruise into the Blowing Hole Ferry terminal after a quick 20 minute ride.  Hoping to make the 0945 ferry, we arrived at the Marigot terminal, found a parking spot (an almost impossible feat!) purchased tickets, cleared immigration and actually made the 0900 ferry instead.

welcome-to-anguilla-terminal-signPlanning to rent a car once we had reached the island, we were approached by one of the stewards on the boat who offered a car for $55, taxes and fees included.  Since I had already checked out the list of car rental agencies and their prices before we had departed, I knew that this was a fair price.  We were able to fill out the paperwork on board the boat, saving time once we arrived.  After clearing immigration, we met the steward after exiting the building and was escorted to the car which was running and ready for us a few feet away.

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Shoal Bay West

 Not quite knowing what the island entailed, we took a quick look at our map and quickly tried to decide which part of the island to explore.  Heading to the west, we decided to bypass Rendezvous Bay since it was so close to the ferry terminal and instead drove to Shoal Bay West.  Spying a beach covered in seaweed and rough seas, we decided that this was not the place for us.  Crossing over to the north side, we tried Mead’s Bay which was calm, clear and beautiful.  Everyone being quite hungry, however, decided that we should return to this location after exploring a bit more and finding something to eat.

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Mead’s Bay
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Pink-hued Salt Pond

Continuing eastward, we headed down to the area of Sandy Ground since it appeared to have more hotels and eateries.  Driving down the inclined road, there is a beautiful view of Road Bay and the pink-hued salt pond on the right.  When we arrived, however, it seemed that things were just being set up on the beach.   The bay was full of moored boats and it didn’t seem like a place we wanted to hang out for a while.

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dionnes-food-truckDuring our journey east, we continued our search for lunch in the island’s capital, The Valley.  There appeared to be a street fair and some lolos (barbecue stands) being set up in the town area, but nothing more than a Subway, which everyone decided was against the rules (you can’t eat American fast food on vacation in another country, unless it is an emergency!).  By this time, the boys were wanting Jamaican patties, so we drove around a bit more looking for a place selling the delectable pies.   Unfortunately, the bakery which would have sold them, was closed, strange, being that it was a Saturday.  After a bit more driving, we finally decided upon a food truck for our lunch.  Food was a bit mediocre, but it got the job done.

During lunch, after reading up a bit in the tourist magazine I picked up on the ferry, I discovered that Shoal Bay East was a beach that was highly recommended.  We were not extremely far from this location so we decided to give it a try.

Upon our arrival, we noticed a few taxis dropping lots of tourists off and a couple of parking lots available.  We paid five dollars to park and made our way down the road in the direction of the beach.  A middle-aged islander sidled up to us and offered to set us up with chairs and umbrellas.  We agreed on two chairs and an umbrella for $10, since the boys never sit still.  The chair pads and umbrellas were a bit worn but, did the trick.

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Taking a look around, I had to admit, this was truly one of the most beautiful beaches I had ever seen.  Clear, turquoise and calm water extended out before us and our feet sunk into the soft, white sand.  Very few resorts or restaurants were on this long stretch of beach and it was not extremely crowded.

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We decided that since we had driven most of the island already and seen what there was to offer, this was where we would spend the afternoon before heading back to the ferry for our return journey.

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A relaxing and beautiful day, we hung out, swam, snorkeled and took a walk on the mile-long beach down to the eastern end, where it concludes at the point.  At this end, we discovered an extensive protected marine park, which offered up an amazing snorkeling spot.

There were a couple of restaurant’s offering food and some souvenirs…Eric and the boys found some great t-shirts and I got a cool hat!

Finally, we decided to end our day and head back toward the ferry terminal to make the second-to-last ferry (we didn’t want to risk the last one) stopping along the way to grab some drinks and topping off our gas tank.

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Overall, we enjoyed our day in Anguilla, however, the burning question remains…would I go back and stay on Anguilla on a future vacation?

Happy to get another stamp in my passport, it was an enjoyable and different way to spend a day on our trip.  Originally, I had run the idea by my husband to go straight to Anguilla when we arrived in St. Maarten, stay there for 2 or 3 nights and then return to St. Maarten for the remainder of our vacation.  After visiting, however, we realized that the island is very quiet and probably more suited for honeymooning couples rather than a family with teen aged boys seeking continual entertainment.  There are apparently some top restaurants located on the island, a plus for foodies, but not for us who enjoy a good meal, but would sometimes just rather have a pizza or a Jamaican patty.  During my investigation of the island, I did find that there are some great nightlife spots in Sandy Ground, with bands and dancing on certain nights.  Overall, I think that if my husband and I would return, maybe we could enjoy a couple of nights on the island, however, I think a day via ferry was perfect for us at this time.

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Anguilla

  • http://www.anguilla-vacation.com/
  • http://ivisitanguilla.com/
  • Ferry Fares (each way):  Adults, $20, Children (under 12), $10
  • Departure Taxes and Security Fee from Anguilla for Day Trippers, Adults, $8
  • Departure Taxes and Security Fee from Anguilla for Tourists, Adults $23, Children (under 12) $3
  • Ferry To Anguilla Schedule (from Marigot)

    • 8:15AM
    • 9:00AM
    • 9:45AM
    • 10:30AM
    • 11:15AM
    • 12:00PM
    • 12:45PM
    • 1:30PM
    • 2:15PM
    • 3:00PM
    • 3:45PM
    • 4:30PM
    • 5:15PM
    • 6:00PM
    • 7:00PM (last ferry)

    Ferry To St. Martin Schedule (to Marigot)

    • 7:30AM
    • 8:15AM
    • 9:00AM
    • 9:45AM
    • 10:30AM
    • 11:15AM
    • 12:00PM
    • 12:45PM
    • 1:30PM
    • 2:15PM
    • 3:00PM
    • 3:45PM
    • 4:30PM
    • 5:15PM
    • 5:40PM
    • 6:15PM (last ferry)

    Note:  There are charters available to Anguilla from other parts of St. Maarten, both Dutch and French sides.

Thirty-Seven

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Thirty-Seven!  Yes, there are thirty-seven beaches to visit on the island of St. Maarten!

While we loved the beach in front of our condo, we learned that many people pack up and drive to other beaches seeking a different experience each day.

We checked out a few others on our 8 day trip…here are our thoughts.

Simpson Bay Beach

imageSimpson Bay Beach parallels the runway of Princess Juliana International Airport and the picturesque fishing village of Simpson Bay.  Primarily undeveloped, this beach runs to the foot of the Pointe Burgeaux rocks and was the beach in front of our rental unit. Though a little rougher on some days than the tranquil waters on other beaches, the sand was very soft, the water very close to our door and hardly a soul was ever on our beach.

Although our boys snorkeled the waters many times, no reefs are present and the only things that they ever found were some starfish and a few sand dollars.  But the most exciting thing happened one day…we were extremely fortunate to witness a nest of baby turtles hatching and making their way toward the water!

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Great Bay Beach

img_8949Located in the heart of Philipsburg, a promenade runs most of the way across its length and a great many bars and restaurants line the beach, making it a very convenient place to take in some sun.  The waters are flat, clear and warm and there are plenty of beach chairs for rent and jet skis for hire.

Because it is convenient to the cruise ship port, accessible by a convenient water taxi, on cruise ship days, expect it to be quite the hopping place!  It is a great place to get some shopping done as many vendors walk along the beach, but a block away there are lots of stores to browse when the sun’s rays get to be a bit too much!

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Grand Case

img_9040After departing Philipsburg, we headed up the eastern side of the island.  Not quite which beach to try next, we decided to stop in the charming fishing village of Grand Case.  A little concerned when we first set eyes on the area, we found the beach to be a bit narrow and not many chairs appeared to be available.  After walking a bit, a wonderful Frenchman at Le Soleil restaurant offered us the use of his loungers.  He was extremely attentive and brought us beers throughout the afternoon and kept an eye on our belongings (though I don’t think there was much risk in our things walking away).

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Grand Case Bay is a long narrow beach lined by celebrated gourmet restaurants and smaller barbeque-style eateries known as lolos.  The smell from these lolos was divine and we actually came back on another day for lunch!

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The water was calm, clear and flat and although not much to see in the way of snorkeling, my boy did find some pretty large starfish.  There was also a partially collapsed pier that extended into pretty deep water providing a great place for my boys and some of the local children to do some diving and back-flips.  Creole Rock is also located just off-shore and attracts many jet-ski tours, snorkelers and divers.

Dawn Beach

Located on the western side of the island, Dawn Beach was a bit difficult to find.  After pulling into the Westin Dawn Beach Resort and Spa and asking the security guard how to find the access point, we were instructed to park in the Westin’s lot and walk along the right side of the property.

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Though we found fine sand and beautiful palm trees, there were also continuous piles of seaweed lining the water’s edge as well as extremely rough water.  Not spotting many swimmers or sunbathers, we decided to leave the location.  

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Orient Beach

Often described as the “Saint Tropez of the Caribbean”, we were anxious to see what this beach entailed.  Situated on the north-eastern part of the island, it is one of the island’s largest and most popular beaches and well-known for being a clothing optional beach.

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Having not planned to spend much time at this beach, as we had heard that chair rental and drinks were quite expensive, we pulled up and took a peek at what there was to offer.   There were many restaurants, hotels, shops and water-sport rentals, such as jet skis, kayaks, sailing boats and paragliding trips.  

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The water was a beautiful shade of blue, although much rougher than what we expected.  There were many small beautiful islands dotting the coast, such as Caye Verte, Tintamarre and Pinel Island, the latter of which is accessible by small ferries.  Although visiting Pinel Island was tempting, we had just visited Anguilla the day before an decided to stay on the mainland.

Mullet Bay

imageMullet Bay was recommended by another visitor at our villa unit.  We were told to try and visit on a weekday as weekends were quite busy with locals.

Finally, making our way to this fine-sanded beach, located near a golf course and Maho Bay,  we found the parking lot to be quite full…even on a weekday.  The beach was quite steep descending into the calm, clear and blue water and extremely packed as three catamarans, filled with cruise ship passengers, were docked in the bay.  

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There were a large number of chairs for rent and a bar and restaurant.  The ruins of the Mullet Bay Resort were visible on the point on the left side of the beach and provided for some nice photographic opportunities.

Maho Beach

Having seen pictures of airplanes flying right over Maho Beach, I have always wanted to visit.  World-famous for its unique location right at the business end of the Princess Juliana Airport runway, crowds gather each day to watch airplanes take-off and land.  This is a must-see!

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More busy when cruise ships are in port, the narrow beach becomes extremely crowded and finding a place to lay a towel is difficult, although leaving anything on the beach makes it susceptible to jet blast blowing it away!  Some chairs are available to rent at the Sunset Bar and Grill.

The water is calm, clear and blue and much quieter on days when cruise ships are not in port.  There are a couple of restaurants and bars flanking each side of the bay, with the most popular being, Sunset Bar and Grill as well as a small supermarket on the northern end of the beach.

Some snorkeling can be done on the southern end of the beach and you may see the occasional tourist boat docked nearby for this reason.

Each of the many beaches on St. Maarten are different and offer many unique opportunities and amenities.   Whatever it is that you are looking for…privacy, snorkeling, dining, watersports, relaxation…there’s a beach for that!  Set out in your rental car and see how many you can check out on your vacation!

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The Yoda Guy

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

St. Maarten, a place of sand, sun, culinary delights…and Yoda?

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imageOne of the most unique tourist attractions on St. Maarten…or any island…has to be the Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit, located on Front Street in Philipsburg.  A welcome respite from the usual touristy shops in the cruise ship port, the Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit is a small non-profit museum concentrating on movie memorabilia and history.  After telling my husband and sons about the museum, there was no turning back…being huge Star Wars fans, they demanded that we visit while spending the morning in Philipsburg.

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imageNick Maley, an international artist and movie effects make-up wizard, known for his key contribution to the development of Yoda and other Star Wars characters, opened the unique museum in 2011.  The museum houses Nick’s private collection of movie relics, duplicates and collectibles, including artifacts and life-size figures.  The exhibits focus on the individuals and techniques that brought to life Yoda, Darth Vader, Chewbacca, the Terminator, Alien, Highlander and Superman, Harry and the Hendersons among others.

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Our favorite pieces were the facial molds taken from various movie sets.  So many familiar faces are on display.

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imageThere are many screens throughout the museum playing video of Nick recalling his part in making the many classic films that he was part of.  There are also some new pieces from Planet of the Apes that are being prepared for the exhibit.

After making our way through the museum, we encountered Nick, in the memorabilia and art gallery part of the store.  A kind and gracious man, he chatted with us for a while, answered our questions and even showed my boys how the museum’s Yoda was operated when it was on the movie set.

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When taking a break from the the usual Caribbean island experiences, make your way down to this small, but amazing museum.  A truly unique experience, the Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit should not be missed!

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The Yoda Guy Movie Exhibit

Cruising Czech-Style

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Visiting many sights throughout Prague, you can’t help but cross or walk near the Vltava River.  The Vltava is the longest river within the country which runs southeast along the Bohemian Forest and then north across Bohemia, through Český Krumlov, České Budějovice and Prague.  It eventually merges with the Elbe river at Melnik and is commonly referred to as the Czech national river.

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After spending the day at Karlstejn Castle and our quick trip to the Jerusalem Synagogue, we still had many hours of sunlight left in the day.  Quickly stopping at our hotel to freshen up, we then headed north and made our way along the river near the Štefánikův Bridge where the boat companies depart for many different lunch, dinner and sightseeing cruises.

Deciding on Czech Boats, we opted for their one-hour cruise, purchased our tickets and waited for our boat, the Maria.

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Soon we were on our way, beers in hand (purchased at the boat’s bar), basking in the sun on the upper deck.

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imageThe boat makes its way along the river towards the magnificent Charles Bridge, which it passes under and then turns around for its return voyage.  There are many beautiful buildings that line the river and you will be able to get a great view of the Prague Castle.

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If you desire more time on the river, there are a multitude of options including lunch, dinner, dessert and jazz cruises.  Although the one we selected was not a very long cruise, the one-hour option gives you an great overview of many of the city’s landmarks.

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Czech Boats

  • http://www.czechboats.cz/
  • Address: Dvorakovo embankment, pier no. 17 (next to Stefanikuv bridge)
  • Hours:  One hour tours, 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 16:00, 17:00
  • Price:  Adults, 220 CZK, Children (3-12 years) 110 CZK

 

 

A Synagogue Second To None

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Rushing to make the train to Karlstejn, I walked quickly, head bowed, with a quick glance to my watch ever couple of minutes.  Passing down Jerusalem Street, nothing in the immediate area caught my preoccupied glances.

Taking the same route, in reverse, later that evening, at a much slower pace, I took in the astounding architecture that lies at every corner.  Turning onto Jerusalem Street, with an upward glance…

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“Whoa! How did I not see that this morning?”

Hard to miss for its Moorish Revival form and Art Nouveau decoration, the colorful Jubilee Synagogue of Prague looks like something out of Disney and beckons tourists to enter.  Really, how could you not, especially if you are a fan of Aladdin!

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imageThe Jubilee Synagogue was built in 1906 and designed by Wilhelm Stiastny.  It was named in honor of the silver Jubilee of Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria, however, since Czechoslovakia became independent in 1918, it has been called the Jerusalem Synagogue for the street it is located on.

Open as a house of worship for over a century, except for the period of Nazi German occupation when it was used to store confiscated Jewish property, the Synagogue is now open, during part of the year, to tourists and those interested in its incredible architecture.

Not the oldest synagogue in the city, nor located in the Jewish quarter of the city, Josefov, it is noted for being the largest place of worship in the city and certainly the most colorful.  Because it is sandwiched between two tenement building, it stands out all the more.  After entering through the horseshoe arches on the facade and paying your admittance fee, surprisingly, you are met with a basilica type triple-nave style with two transverse wings in which churches are usually built.

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My suggestion is to take a seat and take a look…up, down, forward, backward…everywhere.

imageThe nave and the gallery are illuminated by large stained-glass windows both in the walls and the ceiling.  The large central arch frames a rosette window with the Star of David.  In addition, wrought chandeliers hang throughout the building.  Many diverse paintings adorn the walls and a large organ is located on the western tribune.  The high Ark is adorned with a vine leaf motif and the tablets of the Ten Commandments.

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imageAfter your tour of the bottom level is complete, make your way upstairs to the women’s gallery, where you will find an exhibition on the synagogue, describing its history and construction, how it withstood World War II and the changes to the Jewish community in Prague throughout history.

imageWhile not on the regular Prague Jewish Quarter and Synagogue tours, find your way to the Jerusalem Synagogue.  Not like anything you have ever seen, I promise you will be amazed that something like this exists in Prague…even Europe.  If you are visiting during the busy summer months (when it is open) you will also appreciate that with it not being on the usual touristy paths, it is somewhat quiet. More of a reason to visit and appreciate its beauty, architecture and history!

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Jerusalem Synagogue

  • http://www.synagogue.cz/cs/jerusalem-synagogue-page/
  • Address:  Jeruzalemska 7, Prague 1
  • Hours:  April 23-October 31, daily, 1300-1700
  • Admission:  50 CZK (about $2.00)
  • Getting There:  Take a tram no. 3, 9, 14 or 24 to stop Jindrisska. Turn to Jeruzalemska Street just opposite the stop. You can also get there on foot from the Wencelas Square via Jindrisska street.
  • Regular Prayer Service:  Fridays at 2000 (April-September), Saturdays at 0900 (year round)

 

 

Karlstejn Castle


© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Last fall, I made the trip to Karlstejn Castle (see Straight From a Fairy Tale, October 2015), the most visited castle in the Czech Republic.  Built by Czech king and Roman Emperor Charles IV, it was established as a place to store the royal treasures, collections of holy relics and the crown jewel.

Located in the town of Karlstejn, it makes for a wonderful day trip and is an impressive piece of architecture.

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My son loves history and I knew that he would love taking the train, walking through the quaint village and visiting the castle.  Not much has changed since my last visit, except that it was much warmer and there were many more tourists.

The Basic Tour of the Private and Representative Halls of the Holy Roman Emperor is still the only one available for walk up guests.  The Sacred/Holy Area including the Chapel of the Holy Cross tour must be booked in advance.

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Since I had done the Basic Tour, I was a bit disappointed that I could not take the other, however, this time was a bit different.  First, our tour guide spoke much better English than the tour guide on our previous trip, so, I was able to absorb more details of the castle’s history.  The other thing that changed from before were the rules concerning photography…pictures are now allowed within the castle, on the tour.  A welcome change, I was excited not to have to sneak photos when the tour guide was not looking!

KC Hall

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KC Chair

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imageDefinitely, a must-do on a trip to the Czech Republic, I recommend leaving early from Prague in order to beat the crowds, especially during the busy summer months.  Make sure you walk the grounds within the castle’s walls and visit the Clock and Bell Tower and the Well, all included with your tour admission.

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Karlstejn Castle

  • https://www.hradkarlstejn.cz/en
  • Address:  Karlštejn 172, 267 18  Karlštejn
  • Hours: Jan 9-Feb 29, closed, March, 0930-1600, April- June, 0930-1700, (Tue-Sun), July 1-August 31, 0900-1830 (Mon-Sun), September, 0930-1730 (Tue-Sun), October, 0930-1630 (Tue-Sun), Nov 1- Nov 13, 1000-1500 (Tue-Sun), Nov 14-Dec 23, 1000-1500 (Sat-Sun), Dec 24-25, closed, Dec 26-Jan 8, 1000-1500 (Mon, Tue-Sun)
  • Admission:  Adults 270 CZK, Students (ages 6-26) and Seniors (over 65), 180 CZK, Family Ticket (2 Adults + 4 Children max) 860 CZK
  • Getting There:  Departures are from the main station, Hlavní nádraží or Smíchov stations, usually about every 30 minutes in the direction of Beroun.

Baroque and Beautiful

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved

“I am a sucker for a beautiful church.”

Anyone who has read through my blog, knows this statement to be entirely true.  Actually, I love all religious institutions, for their differences in ornamentation, their unique history and for the many beliefs and people that they represent.  I love basilicas, chapels, cathedrals, synagogues, temples, mosques and pagodas.  When I see a church, I want to see the interior…what makes it different from others that I have visited?  Does it have a saint interred there?  Relics on display?  Beautiful stained glass?  Paintings by a famed artist?  Maybe this has a lot to do with the fact that I studied architecture in college…or maybe it has to do with my love of photography and all of the beautiful photographic opportunities each building offers…maybe it has to do with the fact that entry into most institutions is free and therefore, easy on the touristy pocketbook!

St. Nicholas Church 001The Church of St. Nicholas, the most famous Baroque church in Prague, is located in the center of the Lesser Town Square.  Not to be confused with the other two St. Nicholas churches in Prague, one of which is located in Old Town Square, it is a most prominent and distinctive landmark with it’s green dome is visible from all over the city.  I have walked by it countless times, but usually in transit to another destination with no extra time to stop and visit.

Upon entering the Church of St. Nicholas, we found that this particular institution does charge an admission fee for entry, unlike many others, however, at a cost of 70 CZK (about $3.00 U.S.) it’s not an extremely hefty one.  Still, I do not agree with paying to see the inside of a church that has an active congregation.  Paying a few dollars to see the inside of a well renowned landmark will not kill me, but hey, free is free!

After stepping away from the ticket counter and preparing my camera, we began making our way into the church.  I think I held my breath a little in anticipation of what we would find as we stepped inside.  And there it was!  Worth the 70 CZK admission?  You bet!

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The construction of the Church of St. Nicholas began in 1703, lasted approximately one hundred years and employed three generations of great Baroque architects…father, son and son-in-law…Kryštof Dientzenhofer, Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer and Anselmo Lurago.  It was used by the Russian orthodox congregation from 1870-1914, used as a warehouse and housed a garrison at one time.

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When entering, your eyes venture upward toward the ceiling and the 70 meter high dome which is decorated with a magnificent fresco of the Celebration of the Holy Trinity by Franz Palko.  Other frescos by Jan Lukas Kracker are also worth closer inspection.  After heading upstairs, you have a closer view of the grand ceiling fresco and the nave from the viewing gallery that runs along the left side of the church.

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The interior is richly decorated with  sculptures by František Ignác Platzer, many paintings and the side chapels abundantly adorned in gold.

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The main organ, with a beautiful fresco of St. Cecilia, patron saint of music, above it, was built from 1745-1747.  It has over 4,000 pipes up to six meters in length and was most famously played by Mozart during his stay in Prague in 1787.

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St. Nicholas Church 104The belfry was the last part of St. Nicholas to be built and was constructed by Anselmo Lurago from 1751-1756, though designed by his father in law.  As high as the church’s adjacent dome, it does not actually belong to the church but rather the Lesser Town.  Interestingly, the tower was used during the 1960’s by the state police to spy on the western countries embassies nearby.  This I learned, was something interesting to see, despite the additional climb, but it wasn’t until after our visit that we learned that it was included in our admission.  (Nor did we ever see the entrance)  Reading up on the church’s history after our trip, I discovered that visitors are allowed to ascend the tower’s 215 steps, during the day, to experience the splendid views over Malá Strana and across the Vltava River to the Old Town.

The Church of St. Nicholas is not to be missed in Prague, the Czech Republic or even Europe.  One to rival anything that I have visited previously, it is worth the price of admission..maybe even a bit more.  Allow plenty of time to explore the church in it’s entirety…just don’t miss the tower!  I’ve already put aside my 70 CZK so that I can stop in and check it out on my next visit!

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St. Nicholas Church

  • http://www.stnicholas.cz/
  • Address:  St. Nicholas Church Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town, Prague 1, Czech Republic
  • Hours:  March-October, 0900-1700, daily, November-February, 0900-1600, daily
  • Admission:  Adults, 70 CZK, Students (10-26 years), 50 CZK, Children (under 10), free
  • How To Get There:  Tram stop, Malostranske namesti (trams 12, 20, 22)

The Stone Bridge

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Many cities, throughout the world, have have major architectural structures that they are associated with.

Rome?  The Coliseum.

Paris?  The Eiffel Tower.

Rio De Janeiro?  The Christ Statue.

Prague?  The Charles Bridge.

The iconic bridge that crosses the Vltava River, linking the Lesser Quarter and the Old Town, is known worldwide and considered to be one of the most astonishing civil gothic-style structures ever built.  It is so well known that while on your whirlwind tour of Europe and buying the Coliseum charm for your Pandora bracelet, you can pick up a Charles Bridge charm as well.

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At some point during a trip to Prague, most tourists will seek out the bridge as a means to travel across the river, but most will seek it out for it’s beautiful views of the river and the picturesque buildings that line its banks and for the beauty of the ancient bridge itself.  It is an absolute must-see on anyone’s visit to this alluring city.

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Built to replace Judith’s bridge which was destroyed by the Great Flood of 1342, construction began in 1357 under the Czech king and Holy Roman Emperor Charles VI.  Charles IV laid the first stone of the bridge and construction continued for many years under the supervision of Petr Parléř, who was also working on St. Vitus Cathedral.  The bridge, however, was not to be completed during Charles’ lifetime, but was at a near enough completion point to accommodate the king’s funeral procession in its crossing of the Vltava River.  Such a solid construction, it has survived many floods and other calamities…legend has it that eggs were mixed into the mortar used in its construction.  Maybe there is some truth to this matter, as it still stands strong and proud to this day.

Charles Bridge AboveOriginally called the Stone Bridge or the Prague Bridge, the Gothic structure only became known as the Charles Bridge (or Karlův Most) in 1870.  It is protected by two bridge towers…on the Lesser Quarter side, Malostranská věž and on the Old Town side, Staroměstská věž.  Both towers can be climbed for an extraordinary view of the city and the bridge from above.

imageAs you walk along the bridge, it is hard to believe that it was once open to car and tram traffic.  Hoards of tourists stroll across its expanse every day, stopping to examine the statues of saints and patron saints that line the balustrade with the most popular being St. John of Nepomuk.  The Czech martyr saint was executed during the reign of Wenceslas IV by being thrown into the river from the bridge.  It is easy to find this statue from the plaque that has been polished to a shine by the countless people that line up to touch it for good luck every day.  Most of the statues today are copies with the originals being found in the Lapidarium, part of the National Museum.

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 The bridge is also a popular area for Czech musicians and artists and souvenir vendors to display their wares.   It is a great place to be entertained and to purchase unique finds.  As I walked along the bridge most recently, I watched both a flutist and an accordionist perform and browsed numerous stands selling jewelry, photographs and artwork.  It is a place that I come specifically when searching for paintings, as their are many types and styles available.

While everyone should make their way to the Charles Bridge when staying in Prague, do not expect your stroll to be a stress-free one.  Thousands of tourists stroll and linger on the bridge hourly.  You will find yourself dodging selfie-sticks and tour groups following their flag-wielding tour leader as they make their way from Old Town to the Lesser Town.  A great time of the day to enjoy this bridge is at sunset so as to enjoy the Prague Castle against the evening sky.  But…if you wish to have it almost all to yourself…go at night or the very early morning.

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The Charles Bridge (Karlův Most)

  • http://www.prague.eu/cs/objekt/mista/93/karluv-most
  • Address:  Charles Bridge, 110 00  Prague 1
  • Hours: Open continually
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting there:  Metro, A station Staroměstská, Tram, 6, 9, 17, 18, 22, station Národní divadlo, Bus, 294 station Mariánské náměstí

 Old Town Bridge Tower (Staroměstská věž)

  • http://en.muzeumprahy.cz/201-the-old-town-bridge-tower/
  • Address:  parc. č. 148, 110 00 Prague 1 – Old Town
  • Hours:  November–February, 1000-1800, March, 1000-2000, April–September, 1000-2200, October, 1000-2000, daily
  • Admission:  General, 90 CZK, Reduced 65 CZK, Family 250 CZK
  • Getting there:  Metro, A station Staroměstská, Tram, 6, 9, 17, 18, 22, station Národní divadlo, Bus, 294 station Mariánské náměstí

The Lesser Town Bridge Tower (Malostranská věž)

  • http://en.muzeumprahy.cz/202-the-lesser-town-bridge-tower/
  • Address:  čp. 57, 110 00 Prague 1 – Lesser Town
  • Hours:  November–February, 1000-1800, March, 1000-2000, April–September, 1000-2200, October, 1000-2000, daily
  • Admission:  General, 90 CZK, Reduced 65 CZK, Family 250 CZK
  • Getting There:  Metro, A station Malostranská, Tram, 12, 20, 22 station, Malostranské náměstí

LIST OF STATUES ON CHARLES BRIDGE

Statues on the south side of the bridge

  • Statue of St. Ivo
  • Statues of saints Barbara, margaret and Elizabeth
  • Statue of the Lamentation of Christ
  • Statue of St. Joseph
  • Statue of St. Francis Xavier
  • Statue of St. Christopher
  • Statue of St. Farncis Borgia
  • Statue of St. Ludmila
  • Statue of St. Francis of Assisi
  • Statue of Saints Vincent Ferrer and Procopius +Bruncvik column
  • Statue of St. Nicholas of Tolentino
  • Statue of St. Luthgard (Dream of St. Luthgard)
  • Statue of St. Adalbert
  • Statues of Saints John of Matha, Felix of Valois and Ivan
  • Statue of St. Wenceslas

Statues on the north side of the bridge

  • Statue of the Madonna attending to St. Bernard
  • Statue of the Madonna, Saints Dominic and Thomas Aquinas
  • The Crucifix and Calvary
  • Statue of St. Anne
  • Statue of St. Cyril and St. Methodius
  • Statue of St. John the Baptist
  • Statue of Saints Norbert of Xanten, Wenceslas and Sigismund
  • Statue of St. John of Nepomuk
  • Statue of St. Anthony of Padua
  • Statue of St. Jude Thaddeus
  • Statue of St. Augustine
  • Statue of St. Cajetan
  • Statue of St. Philip Benitius
  • Statuary of St. Vitus
  • Statue of the Holy Savior with Cosmas and Damian

 

 

 

 

Czech-ing Out the Sights

© 2016 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Walking through the city of Prague, it is easy to be dumbfounded by its beauty.  I have always been almost breathless looking out over the red rooftops and the amazing architecture at every corner, not knowing quite where to point my camera first.

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There are many things to see and do while touring the city.  During my visit with my son, I was anxious to show him some of the quaint attractions that I have grown to love in the city.

Exiting the Prague Castle’s main entrance, we walked through the Castle District (Hradcany) down to the west side of the Charles Bridge.  The first thing on our agenda was the John Lennon Wall.

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Once a regular wall, young Czechs decided to make it their slate for recording grievances during the communist regime of Gustáv Husák.  Eventually, this led to a clash between hundreds of students and police on the nearby Charles Bridge.  The movement these students followed was described ironically as “Lennonism”.

imageJohn Lennon, a hero to the youth, produced songs that praised freedom that did not exist in the communistic country.  Western pop songs were banned by Communist authorities and some musicians were jailed for playing them.  When Lennon was murdered in 1980, his picture was painted on the wall with graffiti defying the authorities.  The threat of prison didn’t stop people from sneaking to the location during the dark of night to inscribe graffiti in the form of Beatles lyrics and odes to Lennon.  Eventually, they returned to write their own feelings and dreams on the wall.

The original portrait of Lennon remains, but buried under many layers of new paint.  At one time, the wall was repainted by authorities, but after a day passed, it was full of poems and flowers.  On November 17, 2014, on the 25th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution, the wall was painted over completely with white paint by a group of art students, leaving only the text, “wall is over” a play on Lennon’s song, “War is Over”.  Today, the wall, owned by the Knights of Malta, changes constantly.  On the day that we were there, people were selling paint and paintbrushes.  Many young tourists were busy decorating portions of the wall between the dozens of other tourists posing for pictures.

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After a couple of quick pics, we moved on.  Our next quick stop was at the Kampa waterwheel near the Lennon Wall.  Always a favorite of mine, I love to stop here and watch the wheel turn in the Certovka river across from a small restaurant, Velkoprevorsky Mlyn.  The restaurant has always been a source of fascination for me with its romantic small balcony hanging out over the river and two small tables.  On impulse, I ran into the restaurant and made a reservation for the following night for my son and I, something I have always desired to do.

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imageWe were now getting a bit hungry…it was time for a snack…Trdelník.  The sweet pastry, made from rolled dough, wrapped around a stick and grilled, then topped with sugar and walnut mix, is something anyone visiting Prague should have…at least once!  There is a great little place on the end of the right side of the Charles Bridge in the Lesser Town.  You can watch the skilled craftsmen roll the dough, wrap it around the round metal forms and bake it on the rotating rollers.

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imageWhile devouring our Trdelnik, we ducked under the bridge and inspected the many “locks of love” that hang from the gates that line the canal.  These locks are padlocks which couples secure to a public object, most often a bridge, to symbolize their love.  Once the lock is fastened, the key is thrown away into the body of water to symbolize their unbreakable love.  Though not as plentiful as what can be found on the Pont des Arts Bridge in Paris, there are many here and it has become quite a problem, as in other cities, as it damages the structure to which it is fastened.

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As we continued our journey through the city, we stopped every so often to admire the many street performers that secure prime spots on street corners and in the Old Town Square.  While everyone loves a good musician, there were some interesting acts that were quite mesmerizing.  I have to admit, it took me a while to understand the floating man!

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Later that evening, we headed toward one of my favorite spots to have a drink…the rooftop terrace at the U Prince hotel.  When you enter the U Prince hotel, inform the hostess that you would like to go up to the terrace and she will direct you to the elevator.  After exiting the elevator, a few more steps will lead you to another hostess who will seat you at the Terasa U Prince.  Expect higher prices than other eateries or bars, but it is most definitely a trade off for the beautiful view of Old Town!

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Finally, to cap off the evening, we grabbed some gelato right outside of the U Prince and decided to watch the Astronomical Clock put on its hourly show one more time!  A great way to end a busy but wonderful day!

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Lennon Wall

  • Address:  Velkopřevorské náměstí, 100 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
  • Admission:  Free
  • Hours:  Open continually
  • How to Get There:  From metro station Malostranska (green line A) take trams no. 12, 20, 22, 23. The nearest tram stops to Velkoprevorske namesti are either Malostranske namesti or Hellichova.

Velkoprevorsky Mlyn Restaurant

Terasa U Prince

  • https://www.terasauprince.com/terrace
  • Address:  Terasa U Prince, Staroměstské náměstí 29, Praha 1, 110 00, Czech Republic
  • Hours:  1100-2330, daily
  • How To Get There:  Old Town, walking from center of square, past the Astrological Clock (on right) towards the river, the Hotel U Prince is on the left.

Astronomical Clock

  • http://www.staromestskaradnicepraha.cz/en/astronomical-clock/
  • Address:  Staroměstské nám. 1, 110 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
  • Hours:  Visit the Tower, Monday, 1100-2200, Tuesday-Sunday, 0900-2200
  • Admission:  Tower, Adults, 130 CZK, Children, ages 6-15, Students under 26, Senior over 65, 80 CZK, Children, ages 4-6, 30 CZK, Family admission (2 adults, 4 children, up to age 15), 280 CZK
  • How To Get There:  Old Town center