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Beautiful Belém.
Not the city located in Brazil, but the alluring coastal district west of Lisbon.
Only getting to spend a short twenty-four hours in a city you’ve never been to can really boggle your mind when trying to decide which sights are more important than others. There was so much to do and see within the city limits of Lisbon and then, there was Belém…what’s a girl to do?
Belém, long associated with seafaring and early Portuguese explorers, is known for the many historic monuments that commemorate this past history. Though most recommend Belém for a full or half-day excursion, we decided to tackle it in a few hours for a quick overview.
There are many iconic and important attractions located in Belém and time was of the essence. Jerónimos Monastery was high on my list, but since it was near the monastery’s closing time, we decided to have our Uber driver deposit us near the water’s edge.
Our first stop, the beautiful Torre de Belém. Sitting in the middle of the water, on a small island, it is accessible by bridge. Built in the 16th century, this fortified tower was once a part of the defense system at the mouth of the Tagus river and a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was commissioned by King John II and is composed of a bastion and a four story tower built in the Portuguese Manueline style.
As I took picture after picture, I realized that this beautiful structure reminded me of a sandcastle still standing even after the tide has surrounded it. Though I would have liked to tour the tower, it was getting late, there was a line and my travel partners were not interested in waiting. Reluctantly, I walked away to discover the other monuments in the area, knowing that I would have to make this a priority when I returned.
The next monument along the shore was the Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar. Similar to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., this monument pays tribute to those who fought in the Portuguese War in Africa, from 1961-1974. Both striking and somber, the monument, designed by artists Carlos Guerrero and Batista Barros, is comprised of three distinctive sections…the flame, the monument and the memorial wall. While the flame burns eternally, you can take note of over 9,000 names of the fallen inscribed alphabetically and by year on the marble wall behind it. Standing in the shallow pool, are two large angled pillars jutting out above the flame.
A small chapel is located inside in the monument and there is a museum adjacent which focuses on Portuguese Overseas Wars, the modern Portuguese military and World War I objects. There is also a tomb of an unknown soldier from this war, brought from Guinea-Bissau.
Walking back past the Torre de Belém, the Museu de Art Popular and the Belém Lighthouse, we headed toward Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoveries).
The monument, erected in 1960, celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery during the 15th and 16th centuries when Porgual dominated the sea trade between the continents. Observing a design originally conceived by Jose Angelo Cottineli Telmo and then Antonio Pardal Monteiro, the structure was adorned with thirty-four sculptures by Leopoldo de Almeida, including Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan. The main statue of Henry the Navigator, as well as the others, represent those who have contributed to Portugal’s reputation in the age of discoveries; poets, explorers, navigators, crusaders and mapmakers.
Though we did not enter the structure, we were informed that it is divided into three levels. The ground floor covers the history of Lisbon, the second has two exhibition halls and four other rooms on the third floor. The top of the monument is accessible and used as a watchtower.
As we stood before this prodigious structure, the sound of beating drums nearby caught our attention. Walking across Avenue Brasilia toward the Jerónimos Monastery, we encountered a parade circling the Jardim de Belém. Costumed groups, faces hidden by masks, marched to the music, dancing and occasionally stopping to pose with and sometimes frighten observers. As intrigued and entertained as we were by the parade, we weren’t sure what it was all about. After making a few inquiries, we were informed that this was the famous International Iberian Mask Festival, held every year in May!
The festival’s main idea is to bring together the entire peninsula and increase the awareness of its unique culture and traditions, especially with the incorporation of the pagan masks which are common in the Spanish and Portuguese cultures. Besides the regional groups participating, this year’s parade included Boi Tinga from Brazil and The Mummers from Ireland.
After the parade was over, we followed the crowds into Jardim de Belém discovering dozens of stands showcasing local products such as wine, cheese, chocolates and handicrafts. Grabbing a beer and a delicious prosciutto and cheese sandwich, we acquired seats at a picnic table and enjoyed our dinner in the late afternoon sunshine while local performers entertained us on the nearby stage.
Finally, our eyelids growing heavy from the late hour, it was time to grab a souvenir mask and finally an Uber and head home.
Belém…what a blast!
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Torre Belém
- http://www.torrebelem.gov.pt/en/
- Address: Av. Brasília, 1400-038 Lisboa, Portugal
- Hours: October-May, 1000-1730, May-September, 1000-1800. Closed Mondays, January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, June 13 and December 25.
- Admission: €6.00
- Getting There: City bus lines, 727, 28, 729, 714, 751. Tram, 15. Suburban train, Belém Station. Ferry, Belém Ferry Station.
Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar and Museu do Combatente
- http://www.ligacombatentes.org.pt/museus/museu_do_combatente
- Address: 1400-038 Lisbon, Portugal, immediately adjacent to the Torre de Belém.
- Admission: Monument, free. Museum, €3.00
Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoveries)
- http://www.padraodosdescobrimentos.pt/en/
- Address: Av. Brasília 1400-038 Lisboa
- Hours: March-September, 1000-1900. October-February, 1000-1800. Closed Monday from October until March and December 25, January 1 and May 1.
- Admission: Adults, €5.00, Family (2 adults, 2 childrenm 12-18 yrs), €12.50, Seniors and children under 12 years, €2.50.
- Getting There: Train, Belem Station. Tram, 15. Bus, 728 – 714 – 727 – 729 – 751
You will also notice many tuk tuks throughout the city. A common and cheap mode of transportation in Asia, the tuk tuk was introduced to Portugal a few years ago. Popular with tourists, for their availability and for their ease of travel through the narrow streets, you can find them outside of most attractions. Beware, however…the price you pay in Asia is not what you pay in Lisbon.
Enjoy the view. There are many overlooks throughout the city. For the most breathtaking views, head over to the Elevador de Santa Justa, an historic attraction that connects the lower streets of the Baixa with the higher Largo do Carmo. Built in the 19th century and the only remaining vertical lift, it provides an invaluable service by eliminating the steep climb up Carmo Hill.
Miradouro da Graça is situated on the hill of Santo André and overlooks many old neighborhoods like Mouraria, Alfama, the downtown area, Castelo Saõ Jorge, the river and 25th April Bridge. Here, you can enjoy a drink in the esplanade facing Lisbon’s roofs and try to identify the many monuments and landmarks below. If Tram 28 is too crowded, catch bus 712 (Marquês de Pombal) or 726 and disembark at Sapadores for a short walk.
Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara provides views over to the castle and a little market offering nice souvenirs and food and beer stalls. It is easy to access on foot from Bairro Alto or from Rossio below via the Ascensor da Gloria.
Have a treasure hunt. So, not really in the sense you may be thinking. Portuguese tiles, or azulegos, were introduced during Moorish times and adorn dozens of buildings throughout the city. Be on the lookout for these vibrant decorations, especially in the neighborhoods of Alfama, Chiado and Cais do Sodré. If you don’t feel like seeking these tiles out on your own and would like to inspect them at a closer distance, head out to the Museu Nacional Do Azulejo which is filled with tiles of all colors and sizes, some dating back to the 15th century. If discovering how these tiles are made is what you are after, you can also learn about the process here. If money is no object, you can book at stay at the 
With so much to do in this Portuguese capitol, there’s probably not enough time to tackle them all. So, you may have to return…so then you can say,
A restaurant is located here on the promenade and wine vendors offer Portuguese samplings to quench your thirst in the hot, sunny afternoons.
Making our way into the interior of the structure, we marveled at the towering walls and walked along the ramparts admiring both the views and the wind whipping the country’s flags.
Ruins of older structures and a cistern were visible in the courtyard as well as a small door on the northern wall called the Door of Treason which allowed secret messengers to enter or exit as needed. Take a moment to have a seat in one of the garden areas and admire the many pieces of sculptures that adorn the premises. The gardens of Castelo de St. Jorge is a place to be cherished as it is one of the only remaining green spaces in Lisbon where native species of the Portuguese forest hold court. Here, visitors can observe trees such as cork oaks, carobs, strawberry, umbrella pines and various fruit trees.
While there are other, more beautiful and more preserved castles throughout the country, Castelo de St. Jorge is easy to reach and is rich in history. More importantly, with its prominent location high above the city, it is the perfect place to start your exploration of the Portuguese capital.