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Between the towns of Pisac and Ollantaytambo, parallel to the river Vilcanota, lies the Sacred Valley.
Composed of many rivers flowing down gullies and valleys, the land is rich and fertile and was highly prized by the Inca people. Today, it is highly prized for the tourism it attracts, due to the large number of archaeological monuments, and is home to many indigenous people.
After a filling breakfast and one last glance through our packs to make sure we had everything for an extended day, we sat, patiently waiting to be picked up for our tour. After fifteen minutes past the time we had been told and much speculation that we had been forgotten, a small lady walked into the lobby of our hotel asking for someone with the first name of my husband but with a different last name. We walked over, thinking we didn’t understand her accent and identified ourselves, showing her our receipt.
“Let’s go.”
“But wait, the tour was in my name, not my husband’s and that’s not his last name,” I insisted as I glanced down at her paperwork attached to her clipboard.
“Yes, this is you. Let’s go.”
Go where? We were certain this lady had the wrong couple and who knew where we were heading.
Following her a short distance to a parking area next to the city bus stop, we found a large bus parked there and once again, insisted that we may be the wrong couple. As we were ushered onto the bus, they seemed pretty confident that they had indeed, not made a mistake.
A quick glance at everyone already on board, did not instill any confidence…they all appeared to be Peruvian and suddenly, I was thinking that we were on a city bus. As the bus pulled away from the stop, we laughed, thinking of how absurd this all seemed and where we might actually wind up.
Well, we, of so little faith, were completely wrong. We were on the correct bus as was confirmed by our guide who began to describe our day.
Our first stop would be Chinchero, where we would purchase our partial ticket for the sites we would visit. From there, we would continue on to Maras, Moray and then Urubamba for lunch. In Ollantaytambo, we would visit the ancient fortress where we would tackle more than 200 steps to reach the summit. From here, we would continue on to our final stops, Pisac, its citadel and finally, its market.
Almost an hour later, after watching the lush green landscape speed by, locals going about their everyday business, adobe homes and hundreds of political advertisements marring fences and buildings and soliciting votes for the next election, we pulled up to a small hill in the town of Chinchero.
Bracing myself for the lack of oxygen required for the climb, we followed our guide and the rest of the Pachamama Group (Mother Earth), as we were now known. Tickets purchased and validated, we were led up another hill past a small market offering colorful blankets, hats and trinkets to a plaza in front of a beautiful adobe church.
Though we were only able to inspect the church’s exterior, we learned that it was constructed in 1607 by the Spanish on the site of an Incan palace, believed to be that of Inca Tupac Tupanqui. The interior was described to be quite lovely with ornate painted ceilings and Catholic and traditional motifs.
Moving on to the open area past the church, we gazed out onto the beautiful, green, mountainous landscape and the fertile terraces and aqueducts, many still in use today. Produce grown on the land includes potatoes, olluco, oca, quinoa and fava beans and are sold at the local market. The ruins of the summer palace of Tupac Tupanqui can still be seen spilling down the hillside with splendid stonework and a stone throne with intricate carvings.
The day was beautiful and we were able to capture some stunning photographs, the first of many of the day.
After boarding our bus, we headed a short distance down the road into the center of Chinchero. Home to the Interpretation Center of Andean Textiles, the traditionally dressed women of the village offer weaving demonstrations to visitors, describing the age-old methods of making colors for the wool, and how the wool is washed, dyed and spun.
The young woman giving our demonstration was informative and funny and we enjoyed learning about how the many products we had seen so far on our travels were made. As she talked, it was hard not to glance around at the beautiful colors and interior of the structure we were in. Most intriguing was a small house with balconies situated behind the woman. Guinea pigs ran in and out of the doorways and peered out at the crowd, paws resting on the balcony railings. Though its no secret that guinea pig is considered a delicacy in Peru, one I had planned to try at some point, it was both quite amusing and yet, disturbing to see them in their last resting place.
After a vibrantly woven hat caught my eye, I made a deal with one of the young men working on the premises and then exited to the bus for our next stop, Moray.
Located about 27 kilometers from Chinchero, Moray, is believed to have been used as an agricultural laboratory by the Incas. Though not much more is known, there is speculation that the amphitheater-looking, circular, terraced depressions were used to test and experiment with crops. With temperature differences at each level of the terraces of 15 degrees Celsius, it is believed that each level was used to grow different crops and to test hybridization. Possibly, the many variations of potato grown in Peru originated at Moray.
As we stood looking out on the depressions and listening to our tour guide, it was awesome to think how advanced this civilization was. Traversing the paths around the terraces, we learned that parts of the terraces were completely original and some had been restored. Standing in front of one of the oldest depressions, we posed for pictures with the stunning Andes mountains behind us.
As our bus drove around the site and waited for us to make our way up the rocky, dusty path, we learned that our next stop would be Maras, another terraced area, but this one with a different purpose.
Salt.
Driving the winding, narrow road through the mountains, we occasionally pulled to the side to allow other buses and vans to pass. Looking out of the right window, a sea of white spread out in the valley below us, a striking sight amidst the brown, coarse scrub. Maras Salt ponds.
Though salt ponds are usually found on coastal plains, the mountain range we were traversing was once part of the ocean floor. As movement of the tectonic plates pushed the seabed up to form the Andes, the sea salt was locked into the rocks and subsequently pushed to the surface through the many springs that flow through the rocks. The ponds were created long before the Incas, however, who were known for most of the construction in this amazing valley.
Roughly 5,000 ponds, each about four meters in size and 30 centimeters deep, are staggered down the valley. Spring water is fed into the ponds and when full, left to evaporate. When the water has crusted over, the salt is scraped from the top, placed in a basket and allowed to drain.
The mineral-rich (magnesium, iron, calcium and zinc) salt is said to have healing properties and claim to help reduce stress and prevent conditions such as anemia and osteoporosis, in addition to being handy in the kitchen.
The one thing we found extremely interesting was that each of the salt ponds belong to a local family with the size relative to the size of the family. Some are not in use and all are always handed down to the next generation, never outsiders.
Continuing our journey in the mid-day, it was time to head to Urubamba and our lunch. Our group was divided into three and we were all dropped off at different restaurants, though I am not sure what differentiated us into these groups, guessing that it may have been the price we paid for each of our tours. My husband and I and two other couples were deposited at Inka’s House, a large buffet-style restaurant. The food was good at our lunch spot, though others claimed their restaurant was not very good.
Ollantaytambo, our next destination, is located at the northern end of the Sacred Valley. Often known by tourists as a common starting point for the Inca trail, it is also a boarding point for trains to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu.
We had been warned about the many steps we had to climb at the Ollantaytambo Fortress and now it was time to pay the piper. Since I was having trouble breathing after a couple of flights of stairs, how in the world was I going to make it to the top?
In the 15th century, Inca Pachacutec began construction of terraces for farming and an irrigation system. These terrace make up the Ollantaytambo Fortress which was once used for religious purposes and was then the site of a major battle in which resulted in Spanish defeat. The fortress was then later captured by Francisco Pizarro and his men.
As I began the arduous task of making my way to the top, I decided to revel in the climb and enjoy the view every time I had to stop for a breath. Slowly, I climbed, joining forces with another woman, who also insisted she couldn’t make it to the top. With much encouragement for each other, I finally caught up to my husband to the entrance to the temple complex, a short distance from the top.
The Temple of the Sun, an incomplete holy place holds the Wall of the Six Monoliths with its 50 ton stones and is the sight where all the tourists want to take their picture, showing the completion of their ascent. The temple was used as a calendar with its sun dials and other features.
As we moved away from the temple, we made our way to the Balcon Pata, a pathway leading to two large buildings. From here, we then made our way back down to the ceremonial area of the fortress. Looking across the valley, we could see the remains of old crop storehouses built by the Incas. Following the ridge-line, our guide pointed out the shape of a face….Wiracocha, a deity believed to be the creator of all. The area is accessible, however, very steep and much time is to be allowed for the full climb with beautiful views across the valley to the fortress.
Exiting the fortress area, we made our way through the Mercado Turistico. Taking a quick glance around, it was a colorful affair and we wished that time was included in our itinerary to browse the vendor’s stalls. Quickly grabbing two waters, we fought the crowds to keep up with our group and make our way back to our bus. Once on board, we discovered a few empty seats. No, we hadn’t lost anyone on the mountain, some of our group left us at this point to catch the train to Aguas Calientes, beginning their sojourn to Machu Picchu.
Making our way out of town, we headed up into the mountains. Our guide explained that since the gates to Pisac close at 4:00, we had to drive rather quickly in order to enter. Watching the clock closely as the day was coming to a close, we finally arrived with minutes to spare. Making our way to the parking area, we exited the bus an followed our guide up the terraced hillside to the citadel which sits at 9,751 feet, keeping watch over the village below.
The terraces here were similar to those found at Moray and thought to play the same role. The ruins higher up, include four separate areas, P’isaqa, Inti Watana, Qalla Q’asa and Kinchiraqay and offered stellar views of the valley. After an overview of the history by our guide, we were allowed to explore the Temple of the Sun, the remains of the buildings, including a residential settlement, several altars, water channels and ceremonial baths, as we glanced over the river at the open tombs carved into the rocky mountainside.
The wind was strong here and as the day was drawing to a close, we quickly walked through the site back to the parking lot and waiting bus, pausing to pose for a quick photo under the entrance sign.
Our last stop was in the town of Pisac, one that I had been very excited about. I had heard great things about their famous market and looked forward to purchasing some unique souvenirs. However, as we drove down the mountain, the sky was growing dark leading me to realize that the market would probably be closing upon our arrival. My prediction was accurate, but we were brought to a jewelry store for a lesson on assessing the quality of silver. Since it was communicated in Spanish, we attempted to understand, however, it was easier to browse the merchandise.
Finally, our day was drawing to a close. As we drove the winding roads back to Cusco, our heads nodded and our eyes closed. Yes, it was a long day, however, we had seen everything that we had set out to. The sites of Sacred Valley was amazingly different, yet the same, all having history dating back to the Incas. Machu Picchu is a given, but the Sacred Valley is not to be missed.
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Chinchero Ruins, Church and Interpretation Center
- Address: Interpretation Center, Calle Albergue 5, Chinchero, Peru
- Hours: 0800 to 1730, daily. Market open daily 0700-1730.
- Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.) Interpretation Center, 1000-1800.
- Getting There: Collectivos go through Chinchero to Urubamba and Ollantaytambo. Ask driver to drop you in town, a short walk to ruins and church.
Moray
- Hours: 0700 to 1800, daily
- Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.) Interpretation Center, 1000-1800.
Maras
- Hours: 0700 to 1800, daily
- Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.) Interpretation Center, 1000-1800.
Ollantaytambo
- Address: Ollantaytambo
- Hours: 0700 to 1800, daily
- Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.)
Pisac Archaeological Park
- Address: Pisac Archaeological Park, Pisac, Cusco.
- Hours: 0700 to 1730, daily
- Admission: The partial tourist ticket or ‘Boleto Turístico’ costs S/.70 (Approx. US$25.)
Pisac Market
- Hours: 0700-1700, daily. Sundays include additional vendors.
- Admission: free
After a walk through some of the small markets and a glimpse at the Presidential Palace, we jumped back into a cab and headed back toward Miraflores. Traffic of course, was at its usual, almost standstill. Heading down Avenue Arequipa, we made a quick decision to stop our driver near a street heading to Huaca Pucllana (read about my first visit on my post A Peruvian Pyramid), a great adobe and clay pyramid which served as an important ceremonial and administrative center between the years of 200 and 700 AD. Luckily, an English tour was about to commence and were able to follow along, learning about the historic structure.
Finally, we headed back toward Parque Kennedy in the center of Miraflores. Walking through the park, I pointed out the Church of the Miraculous Virgin (read about my first visit in my post The Colonial Church) and City Hall. Guiding my husband toward a store, La Quinta, with tables piled high with clothing, he inquired as to whether he was going to get some of the churros that I always talk about. Yes, but first a little shopping expedition (read more about it in my blog post Shop Til You Drop)!
So, we were up early the next morning and heading even further south into Peru. Though is was an arduous task getting to the airport, even with easy Saturday traffic, the check-in process with LC Peru was quite simple and before lunchtime, we had already checked into our hotel in Cusco.
Finally, with tickets in hand, we set out to accomplish the last of our tasks of the day, collecting our tickets for our Sacred Valley tour the next morning. This tour had been set up for us by a friend of a friend. As we found the office, met the agent and paid for the tour tickets, we were instructed on our pick up time in the morning and what our day would entail…lots of stops, beautiful ruins, interaction with the local people and lunch. Very excited about to hear what our upcoming day, we bid our travel agent goodbye and continued our explorations of the Plaza de Armas, culminating with a scrumptious, Peruvian dinner.
For the past few years, I have enviously swiped through my friend’s Facebook posts about their sojourns to Machu Picchu. Spying them perched on the mountainside with the picturesque citadel spread out below them…and the occasional llama or two…I envisioned myself there one day.
LATAM? Avianca? Star Peru? Peruvian? LC Peru? Viva Air Peru?
Second order of business…getting to Aguas Calientes. The Peru Rail website was pretty straightforward and we decided that we would travel from Cusco Poroy station to Aguas Calientes, instead of from Ollantaytambo, which required a lengthy taxi or bus ride. Pricing wasn’t much different and we would leave early, arriving around 11:00 am. After selecting our options, the website made a reservation and charged my credit card, however, it did not generate tickets. I knew something was off but not sure what the problem was. After two phone calls to Peru, I finally found someone at Peru Rail who could help. Six hours later, many emails back and forth, plus the submittal of information requested, we finally had tickets. A refund for the first charges was processed about a week later.
Next, we needed a hotel room in Aguas Calientes. There are many options from hostels to high-end spas. After perusing different choices on Agoda, I decided that with so little time at the hotel, it was not prudent to spend a great deal for one night. Deciding on a mid-grade room, this was booked and paid for.
Figuring out what to pack was much tougher than I expected and I spent many days, shopping and then returning items that I ultimately decided were not what the trip required. The weather seemed to change on a dime and everyone uttered those words I hate, “bring layers”. The weather forecast even gave the type of temperatures that I hate, “60s”! 60 in the sun, can be totally different than 60 in the shade!