March 2016 – Snapping The Globe

Cathedral of Lima

The Cathedral of Lima, dedicated to St. John the Apostle and Evangelist, presides on the eastern side of the Plaza de Armas and is truly a magnificent work of art, a far cry from its modest beginnings.

It has been told that in January 18, 1535, the Spanish conquistador and founder of Lima, Francisco Pizarro placed the first stone, taken from an Inca temple located on this site, and carried over his shoulders the first log used in the construction of the Cathedral.

Over the years, many earthquakes have necessitated the repairs and reconstruction of the Cathedral, most notably the earthquakes of 1746 and 1940. Still retaining its colonial structure and facade, it is important to note when entering the structure, the three large doorways, which are in keeping with the majority of cathedrals. The main or central doorway is called the Portada del Perdon or the “door of forgiveness”. Above the doorways is the Peruvian seal and the phrase “Plus Ultra” rather than Lima’s coat of arms.

Carved in stone and ornamented with exquisite details and decorations, the front of the cathedral is flanked by the two high towers with spires of slate which were added around 1800.

After entering the cathedral and paying the entry fee of 10 sols, you are free to wander throughout the cathedral and the Religious Art Museum which is housed within the cathedral. A guided tour may be taken or one can self-guide through the Cathedral using the pamphlet dispersed with the ticket.

Due to the reparations stemming from the earthquakes, the interior is a sight to behold displaying a mix of late Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassic elements. Beautiful vaulted ceilings, checkerboard flooring, a gold plated main altar and intricately carved choir stalls are most notable, however, taking the time to inspect each of the fourteen chapels is highly recommended. A map is handed out to each guest, with your paid admission, detailing the side chapels. One of the chapels, opens on to Calle de Judios (Street of the Jews) and another on to the Patio de los Naranjos (Square of the Orange Trees), which is connected to the Cathedral.

The first chapel in the left aisle, holds the ancient baptistery. Ancient pictures found recently in this chapel, have been restored and are on display for the public. This chapel is followed by the Capilla de la Sagrada Familia (Chapel of the Holy Family) featuring figures of Jesus, Mary and Joseph. I highly recommend spending a few minutes admiring each chapel’s unique qualities.

As you make your way to rear of the Cathedral, you will find your way to the Religious Art Museum within the old sacristy. The museum displays a large collection of historical objects including painting, sculptures, furniture, jewelry, sacred vessels and religious vestments and robes of former archbishops.

Also at the rear of the Cathedral is a large crypt. Many remains can be seen here, including a display of skulls in a glass-fronted niche. Another oddity, a glass case situated in the floor, contains about a dozen or so extremely small coffins.

The tomb of Francisco Pizarro also is housed within the Cathedral as you walk in on the right hand side. A most interesting story, the mummified remains of the conquistador were on display in a glass casket in the Cathedral of Lima for almost a century. The remains were visited by Catholic and Spanish pilgrims and studied by historians. Imagine the shock when in 1977, workers uncovered a casket engraved with the words, “Here is the skull of the Marquis Don Francisco Pizarro who discovered and won Peru and placed it under the crown of Castile.”

Another unique find within the Cathedral is a tea shop opened a couple of years ago. When visiting La Teteria, visitors can choose from a menu of teas and nutritious baked pastries and breads. While the tea shop is housed within the Cathedral, it can be visited independently by simply asking at the main doors of the church.

Although I found the San Francisco Church to be much more impressive and beautiful, I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Cathedral. For the history buff and the architecturally obsessed, it is a must-see on your trip to Lima.

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Cathedral of Lima

Address: Jirón Carabaya, Lima 15001, Peru
Admission: 10 sols (about $3) includes admission to cathedral and museum. Combination ticket of 30 sols (about $9) includes the Archbishops Palace and the Cathedral, including museum
Hours: Monday-Friday 9:00-17:00, Saturday, 10:00-13:00, Sunday, 13:00-17:00

Peruvian Past

One of the things I wanted most to experience while visiting the historic center of Lima was the San Francisco Church, one of the best preserved colonial churches in the city, which also houses a monastery, museum and catacombs.

Construction of the Spanish baroque-style church, which pays tribute to Saint Jude the Apostle, was begun in 1673, but was not completed until 1774. Having survived many earthquakes in its early years with little damage, a tremor in 1970 caused extensive destruction. The entire complex, consisting of the church, the monastery, museum and catacombs was listed in 1991 as part of the Historic Centre of Lima.

As your enter the gates and gaze upon the bright yellow facade of the church, you’ll be greeted by the swarms of pigeons in the courtyard as well as many vendors selling bags of seeds, which keeps the birds present, and other wares.

Having about thirty minutes before the next tour would begin for the catacombs and monastery, I decided to visit the church first. A very fascinating structure, I was most taken with the beautifully carved entrance and the colossal wooden doorway. Once inside, you cannot but be enthralled with the red and white intricately latticed dome, its ornately gilded side altars and the Spanish influence throughout. Most notable was the head altar which is fully carved out of wood.

After my visit was complete, a few steps out of the church through the courtyard brought me to the entrance of the Museum, Monastery and Catacombs. As tours begin on the hour, I only had a few minutes to wait before our guide greeted us and prepared us for our circuit. Her first instructions…something it seems that lately I have been hearing quite frequently…no photos! Ugh!

The first part of our visit brought us through the museum and monastery. A large collection of ancient religious texts, some brought over by the first wave of Spanish priests after the conquest of the Incas is exceptionally notable. While I was tempted to sneak a few pictures of the prominent library, filled with 25,000 texts, including the first Spanish dictionary and a Holy Bible from 1571, I noticed the surveillance cameras throughout the room as well as two workers intent on preserving ancient texts. As much as I would have loved to capture the beauty of this room, with my camera, it was not to be. Sadly, this amazing room would have to be remembered from a postcard purchased in the gift shop.

The monastery contains many religious works of art and you can also visit the choir stalls where you see the large choir songbooks displayed on floor stands. Before exiting the monastery, you will pass through a series of beautiful courtyards full of plants, walkways and private little nooks where the monks most assuredly passed their time meditating.

Before long, you are entering the maze of passageways which were actually part of Lima’s original cemeteries. An estimated 75,000 bodies are buried under San Francisco alone and many of the remains are exposed and stacked in strange patterns in circular stone pits. As you walk through the semicircular archways and vaulted ceilings, you can distinguish skulls, tibiae, femurs and fibulae of the bodies that were place here to decompose.

Many famous Peruvians from the colonial era were buried within the old church including the remains of Friar Juan Gomez, a 16th Century doctor and “miracle worker” who worked at the church hospital for 40 years. According to Franciscan chronicles, Friar Gomez saved the life of a man who fell off his horse by simply reciting three prayers for the man. The man, thought to be dead, rose to his feet and walked away as if he’d never fallen from the horse.

Having been through many catacombs in France and Italy, it was interesting to note the difference in how the bones were laid to rest and displayed. Since no surveillance cameras were noted, I was able to turn off my flash and snap a few photos of the macabre exhibit.

After the tour’s completion, we were allowed to make our way through the monastery and museum toward the exit. Again, a few photos were able to be taken quickly with no one noticing.

Thoroughly having enjoyed my visit to the San Francisco Church, Museum, Monastery and Catacombs, I highly recommend a visit to anyone in the historic city center of Lima. Take the time to absorb and appreciate each unique part of this significant landmark.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Church, Museum and Catacombs of San Francisco

Address: Jirón Lampa y Ancash, Lima, Peru
Admission: Church, free admission
Admission: Museum and Catacombs, 10 sols (about $3)
Hours: Church, daily 7:00-11:00 and 16:00-20:00
Hours: Museum and Catacombs, daily 9:00-20:15

Lovely Lima

On my quest to check off as many countries as possible from my bucket list, I try to get many done on my company’s clock. Of course, I love to travel on my own time, but there’s nothing like getting paid to see another area of our globe while making a buck or two.

Recently, I found my schedule short a few hours. Since I work my schedule around my husband’s, I usually work weekends. Not seeing any trips to pick up that fit the bill, I decided to check other base’s swap boards to see if there was anything that I might like. My base, NYC, only flies to the South American cities of Sao Paulo and Bogota, so it’s wonderful when the Atlanta base has some South American trips available. A couple of years ago, I was able to work trips to Buenos Aires, Argentina and Santiago, Chile and really loved what these cities had to offer. Lima had been on my to-do list, but I just had not seemed to have the space on my schedule…until now. As I checked the swap board, there it was…available for out-of-base pickup and on the exact day that I needed it!

Always suffering a bit of anxiety before I go anywhere new, I did quite a bit of research before the day of departure arrived. There was not one thing that I wanted to miss out on!

Arriving at the hotel after midnight, there wasn’t a concierge on duty to assist me. I knew from my research that there was a double-decker tour bus that departed from the nearby Parque Kennedy at 9:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m. with the tour lasting 3 1/2 hours. Aware that it ran through the Plaza de Armas and visited the Cathedral on the morning tour and the Catacombs during the afternoon tour, it seemed like a good option, but the problem was that I did not want to just ride on a bus and see things. I wanted to have time to walk around and see each building and more importantly, I wanted to see BOTH, the Cathedral and the Catacombs. One of the front desk employees suggested a private tour company, but, after a bit of questioning, I found that other tourists would be on the tour as well. I really did not want to be on anyone’s schedule but my own.

Finally, I decided that although my Spanish is quite rusty…actually, almost non-existent…I was going to take a cab. Getting the cab to the city center from my hotel wouldn’t be a problem…getting one back to the hotel, might be though, if I wasn’t able to communicate properly. Well, I finally decided that I would give it a try. Certainly, I figured, I should be able to find a hotel and enlist their assistance.

The next morning, I was up early and ready to tackle this new adventure. After a delicious breakfast, I had one of the hotel clerks call the cab for me. Before long, I was ensconced in a decent cab with the driver having been instructed to bring me to Plaza de Armas. From our hotel in Miraflores, it was about a 30 minute somewhat scenic ride ride in which I entertained myself with a bit of people watching.

Before long, I was deposited at the foot of the Cathedral of Lima looking out on the beautiful Plaza de Armas or Plaza Mayor. Plaza de Armas, is the name for the main square in many Hispanic American cities. While some large cities have both a Plaza de Armas and a Plaza Mayor, in most cities those are two names for the same place. Here in Lima, both names are used for this locale, the birthplace of Lima. The square is flanked by the Presidential Palace, the Cathedral of Lima, the Archbishop’s Palace of Lima, the Municpal Palace and the Palace of the Union.

Leaving the square, I headed toward the Peruvian House of Literature, which is Lima’s old train station. Restored by the government, in 2009, it was turned into a reading room of Peruvian works and it open to the public. As picturesque as it was, and as tempting to visit, I had another destination in mind.

Turning right, I headed over to the baroque-style Church of San Francisco. The tours of the catacombs begin on the hour, so I decided to wisely make use of my time and visit the church prior to joining the tour.

After my visit to San Francisco Church and Catacombs was complete, I wandered through a few of the souvenir shops while making my way back to the Plaza de Armas. The sound of music greeted me as I made my way into the Plaza and I noticed a crowd gathered in front of the Presidential Palace, the official residence and office of Peru’s president. Sitting on the banks of the Rimac River, the French-inspired mansion, constructed in the 1930’s, showcases the changing of the guard ceremony every day at noon. Since the crowd was not extremely large, I was able to make my way to the front of the pack…great brass band, beautiful uniforms, lots of pomp and circumstance…not to be missed!

Next on my agenda was the Cathedral of Lima. Dedicated to St. John, Apostle and Evangelist, it is also home to the tomb of Francisco Pizarro. The cathedral is quite impressive with its many chapels. The old sacristy and the adjoining rooms house the Religious Art Museum of the Cathedral of Lima. The museum displays religious paintings, sculptures and countless liturgical objects and is fascinating to visit.

Departing the Plaza de Armas, I made my way down to Plaza San Martín, which was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988. Located within the Historic Centre of Lima, it is one of the most representative public spaces of Lima and the meeting place of many Peruvians. A wonderful place to observe the local residents relaxing and traversing the plaza, time should also be take to absorb the impressive architecture. Surrounding the plaza, the many historic buildings…the Colón Theater, The Hotel Bolivar, The Zela and Pumacahua arcades, Club Nacional, the Cine Metro, Fénix, Boza and Sudamérica buildings, were built in the Neocolonial style. There are four water fountains, bronze streetlamps and flower-filled gardens and the central monument pays homage to Peru’s liberator, Jose de San Martín.

Finally, the time had come to arrange for my transportation back to my hotel in Miraflores. Despite my unfortunate Spanish language skills. I was lucky enough to find a cabbie that spoke a bit of English. My ride to Plaza de Armas had only cost 20 sols (about $6) and I had given the driver a 10 sols tip ($3) because I did not have any change. Expecting the same fare, I was shocked when the cabbie that I approached, looked at the business card from my hotel and offered $50 sols! He spoke a bit of English and tried to explain that it was very far. I stood my ground and finally got him to agree to 30 sols. Success! Happy that I overcame the hurdle to return to my part of town, I was soon on my way!

My plan for the afternoon was to explore the area near my hotel. Hearing of wonderful shopping at Polvos Azules (Blue Market), I had hoped to visit, however, other shopping near the hotel caught my attention. The pilots on my crew informed me that a store near our hotel offered a brand of clothing that my children were particularly impressed with…at an extremely good price. Wandering the streets for a while, I thought that I had been misdirected. Up Avenida Larco and down again, over to the next street and back down…maybe because I wasn’t sure of what I was looking for, I must have passed by the store I was looking for a few times. Finally…I found it. Tables everywhere were piled with clothes…I finally completely understood why my crew members nicknamed it “The Dig”. As I glanced around at the chaos that was LaQuinta, I thought that I would never find what I was looking for. Thankfully, I had had the hindsight to save a picture of one of the shirts from the brand I was looking for. When I showed it to one of the clerks, she took me straight to a table, teeming with piles of shirts, so nicely folded and divided by size. I thought I was in heaven! After selecting and purchasing so many pieces, it was time to stop at Manolo’s for a snack…Churro filled with dulce-de-leche…head back to the hotel to deposit my wares and make my way over to the Indian Market.

Located one block from the roundabout near Parque Kennedy is Avenue Petit Thouars. The market contains many artisan markets selling everything Peruvian craftsmanship has to offer. Beautiful jewelry, silverware, artisan craftworks, clothing made from alpaca wool, pottery, paintings and more, from all over Peru, are offered for sale. After doing some heavy duty negotiating and finally securing a couple pieces of jewelry, an Incan mask and an Incan chess set for my son, I was ready to sample some local fare for my dinner and head back to somehow find space in my suitcase for my many purchases!

Lima was an incredible place…one that I will return to in the near future. Maybe I will let my company pay my way once again, but most definitely, I will return on my own time so that I can explore…maybe solo…maybe with my family…on my own schedule.

Check out more pictures of Lima on my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe and on Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Church, Museum and Catacombs of San Francisco

Address: Jirón Lampa y Ancash, Lima, Peru
Admission: Church, free admission
Admission: Museum and Catacombs, 10 sols (about $3)
Hours: Church, daily 7:00-11:00 and 16:00-20:00
Hours: Museum and Catacombs, daily 9:00-20:15

Cathedral of Lima

Address: Jirón Carabaya, Lima 15001, Peru
Admission: 10 sols (about $3) includes admission to cathedral and museum. Combination ticket of 30 sols (about $9) includes the Archbishops Palace and the Cathedral, including museum
Hours: Monday-Friday 9:00-17:00, Saturday, 10:00-13:00, Sunday, 13:00-17:00

Indian Market

Address: Petit Thouars 5321, Lima, Peru
Hours: daily 10:00-19:00
Prices negotiable

Manolo’s-Churreria, Cafeteria, Heladeria, Snack Bar, Restaurante

Address: Av Jose Larco 608, Miraflores Lima 18, Peru
Hours: Monday-Thursday 07:00-01:00, Friday, 07:15-02:00, Saturday, 08:15-02:00, Sunday, 08:15-01:00
Try the dulce-de-leche or chocolate filled churros! 5 sols each (about $1.50) Delicious!

Noord Nourishment

When in Amsterdam, everyone seems to gravitate towards Thai food…maybe because there is a Thai restaurant near our hotel, but also because there are a lot of Thai options in Amsterdam. Occasionally, I like to indulge my Thai taste buds, but more often than not, I like to try other things.

Remembering the first time I went to the Eetcafe Mosveld (not to be confused with Eetcafe Number One, also in this area), I was officially hooked. Chicken schnitzel is what they are known for and with extremely good reason. It is truly divine and probably the best that I have had outside of Germany. The accompanying sauces are outstanding and the home-churned seasoned butter placed on the table with the freshly baked bread has caused me to break my diet more than once. Other dishes are offered as well, as nightly specials, such as fresh grilled fish and occasionally stuffed potatoes as an option other than French fries.

And then, there is the fabulous service! The owner is aware that many crew members frequent his establishment and we are treated very well, though I have always seen his hospitality extended towards all patrons. At the end of our meal, we are always treated to an after-dinner drink. The thing that has most made an impact on me, though, is that I have only eaten here about six or seven times over the last three or four years, but the owner remembers what I like and what sauce I usually order.

Another thing that we adore about this place, is that as a group, sometimes it becomes a little difficult trying to remember “who had what” and trying to split the bill, especially after a few beers are involved. No heavy duty math skills are involved, as we each go up to the bar and the owner charges us individually for what we owe. Come prepared with cash, however, no credit cards are accepted.

Last year, when my family spent spring break in Amsterdam, with all of the options available to us in the city center, we made the trek across the river, to Amsterdam Noord, just to eat here at my recommendation. Yes, I heard many gripes about why we had to go so far when there were so many other places to dine, but after our meal was complete, not one complaint was heard from my picky eaters. In fact, my family still talks about this restaurant today and the owner still asks about my family! Now, that’s the kind of place I like to give my business to!

Night view…you’ll know it by the twinkling lights on the ceiling inside!

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Eetcafe Mosveld

Mosveld 47, 1031 AC Amsterdam, Netherlands
Hours: 10:00-01:00 Sat, 15:00-1200 Sun, 10:00-1200 Wed, 03:00-12:00 Thu, 11:00-0100 Fri, Closed Monday and Tuesday
Phone: +31 20 632 7348

Wynand Fockink

Wynand What? Many have never heard of this place nor know exactly how to pronounce it, but there is a wonderful little surprise that hides behind the NH Krasnopolsky Hotel in Dam Square. Built in 1679, the Wynand Fockink Proeflokaal (Dutch for tasting tavern) and liquor store resides in the adjacent alley.

Beginning as a liqueur distillery, a Proeflokaal was added where customers could taste and buy the products. Today, you can still visit the tasting room, using the time honored way of bowing to the drink and slurping the first sip from a traditional tulip glass. There are many liqueurs to sample in many flavors, such as butterscotch, lemon and creme brulee as well as genevers, brandies and draft beers.

Space here is limited but always interesting and I always get very excited when I find out that someone I am with has never been here. It’s a “must do” on anyone’s visit to Amsterdam! Ask the bartender to surprise you with something unique…and if you love it, you can wander over to the adjoining store and purchase a bottle to take home!

Check out more pictures on Facebook,Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Wynand Fockink

http://wynand-fockink.nl/nl
Address: Pijlsteeg 31, 1012 HH Amsterdam, Netherlands
Hours: Daily, 15:00-21:00

A Utrecht Stopover

After our visit to the opulent De Haar Castle, the return to Amsterdam was taking us back again through Utrecht. Seeing an opportunity to circumnavigate the ancient city center, albeit quickly, we decided to hop off of the train and make quick work of seeing a few landmarks.

Finally exiting the train station, after wandering aimlessly through the adjacent shopping center, a quick stop was made for soup and a sandwich. Realizing that the day was drawing to a close, I wanted to show my friend, Leianne, a few of the things that I had appreciated on a prior visit.

While at the castle, we had learned of the destruction that had been caused by a hurricane in 1674. The same storm had torn through the city and destroyed the nave of St. Martin’s Cathedral, or the Dom Church as it is more commonly known. The Church and the Dom Tower still stand separated by the non-existent nave, now the Domplein, a square with trees. Once the Netherlands’ largest church, dedicated to St. Martin of Tours, it was also the cathedral of the Diocese of Utrecht during the Middle Ages. The tower, the hallmark of the city, is the tallest church tower in the Netherlands. Standing at 367 feet high, it is on the spot where the city of Utrecht originated almost 2,000 years ago.

As we walked up the street toward these two magnificent structures we passed underneath the Dom Tower. Exiting on the church side, it was easy to imagine the hurricane force winds that caused the destruction many years ago. The wind was blowing so hard that we were almost unable to put one foot in front of the other.

Although we did not have time to do so on this day, climbing the Dom Tower can be a wonderful opportunity to see Utrecht from a higher vantage point. On a prior trip, I climbed the 465 steps to the top, stopping halfway to view the historic bells and the 17th century Hemony carillon.

Once we completed our visit of St. Martin’s Cathedral, we ducked into the Pandhof (courtyard) which is located between St. Martin’s Cathedral and the University Hall at Domplein. The Pandhof is a peaceful and picturesque monastery garden, where ornamental plants and herbs bloom. In the center of the garden is a fountain with a bronze statue of the 14th century priest Hugo Wstinc. One of the most beautiful enclosed gardens in Holland, it is worthy of a few minutes to step inside…and if you are lucky, there will be someone utilizing the magnificent acoustics and playing music for your enjoyment (or for a euro or two!)

Musician utilizing the acoustics at Pandhof

As the day ended, we walked around a bit more, just checking out the beautiful architecture and relaxed atmosphere that Utrecht has to offer, before making our return to Amsterdam. Having previously visited Utrecht, I know all that the city extends to visitors. Hopefully, despite the short time here, my friend gained some insight in to what a great place it is to spend time and she will return to inspect it further!

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Utrecht

Getting there: Amsterdam Central to Utrecht, approximately 25 minutes, 5-6 departures per hour, approximtely 17€ roundtrip

Dom Tower

http://www.domtoren.nl/en
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 10:00-17:00, Sunday and Monday, 12:00-17:00
Admission: Adults, 9€, Children (ages 4-12) 5€, Students/+65, 7,50€

St. Martin’s Cathedral

http://www.domkerk.nl/
Admission: Donations accepted
Daily, May-September 10:00-17:00, October-April 11:00-16:00, Saturday 10:00/11:00-15:30, Sunday 12:30-16:00

Divine De Haar

Located in the center of the Netherlands near Utrecht, De Haar Castle, is a medieval fortress complete with towers, ramparts, canals, gates and drawbridges. Entirely restored and partially rebuilt in the 19th century, it is a sight to behold and quite unlike anything you would expect from the less than flamboyant Dutch.

Getting to De Haar Castle was so much easier than I ever thought. Worried about changing trains in Utrecht and then to a bus in Vleuten, I had put off visiting De Haar Castle for quite some time. Laying in my bed the night before, trying to decide what to do the next day and knowing that the weather was not going to be optimum, I decided that in the very least, it was something to do that was indoors and probably worth the trip.

The agents in the Amsterdam train station were extremely helpful when purchasing our tickets. While checking train schedules, I knew that there were certain trains that provided a better connection in Utrecht, however, connect time was only about eleven minutes. The agent informed us which Utrecht train to take for the better connection, but gave us a choice…wait in Amsterdam Central a little longer for that train or go to Utrecht on a train leaving sooner and have more time for the connecting train in Utrecht. We decided on the first train, in the event that the other might be running behind…better to wait in Utrecht!

Travel to Utrecht is a quick twenty-six minutes. The station is not very large and finding the platform for the Vleuten train was brief and uncomplicated. The journey from Utrecht to Vleuten is only ten minutes. Walking down from the platform, take a left, under the tracks and you will see the bus stop straight ahead on the left. The #111 bus to De Haar Castle (on certain days) runs approximately every thirty minutes and drops off right in front of the castle.

The ride to the castle is quite short, through the beautiful countryside. Before we realized, the bus was coming to a stop and we had our first glimpse of the castle’s outer walls. A short walk led us to the gatehouse, the courtyard and the ticket office. Walking toward the impressive castle through the front gardens, one can imagine how lovely it would be during the spring and summer months when everything is in bloom.

Tours begin on the top of the hour so there was some time to walk around and take pictures of the beautiful grounds and the castle’s exterior. After finally entering the castle, we found a coat check room and lockers for our belongings. We also found a sign stating that no pictures are allowed…very disappointing for this photography lover!

The hour long tour take you through different parts of the grand home, from the kitchen to the guestrooms and touches on the history of the castle. In 1890, De Haar was inherited by Baron Etienne van Zuylen who was wed to Baroness Helene de Rothschild. Plans were made to rebuild the castle which was in disrepair, with architect Pierre Cuypers in 1892, a project that took 20 years to complete. The castle has 200 rooms and 30 bathrooms, of which only about 10 are shown on the tour.

Interior photos (of course, we sneaked a few)

Surrounding the castle are magnificent gardens designed by Hendrik Copijn. Many waterworks can be found throughout as well as a formal garden modeled after those of Versailles. The village of Haarzuilens, formerly located where the park was to be built, was demolished for construction of the gardens, with the exception of the town church, and moved further up the valley, where it can be visited today. Most of the buildings were designed by Pierre Cuypers and his son Joseph. The coat of arms does not only live on in the colors of the castle, but also in nearly all of the houses in Haarzuilens.

Upon completion of our tour, we once again returned to the grounds, fighting the wind and drizzle, finding the chapel, which we had hoped to visit, closed. It was easy to imagine how returning during the warmer months would be extremely enjoyable, venturing out into the sunshine to encounter the Rose Garden, the Roman Garden, ponds, canals, bridges, vistas and impressive avenues. Reading somewhere that each season at the castle has its own charm, I can promise you that due to the ornery weather, winter’s charm was not going to be experienced during our visit…only winter’s misery!

Catching the bus at the same location, we returned to the Vleuten train station for the brief journey to Utrecht and Amsterdam.

One would expect a castle of this caliber to be found throughout other parts of Europe, not the Netherlands. Thanks to the Van Zuylen family, however, it is one that you can experience on a trip to the country most known for its windmills and cheese. If you are in search of history and architecture, then, De Haar Castle is worth the effort.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

De Haar Castle

http://www.kasteeldehaar.nl/english-version/
Opening Hours: January 4-March 13, daily, 11:00-17:00. March 14-June 30, daily, 10:00-17:00. Tours depart on the hour, last tour 16:00.
Admission: Castle entrance and all day park access, Adults, 14,00€, Children (ages 4-12), 9,00€, Children (under 4), free
Admission: Park entrance only, Adults 4,00€, Children (ages 4-12), 3€, Children (under 4), free
Getting there: Trains depart for Utrecht from Amsterdam Central station regularly. From Utrecht Central Station take the train to Vleuten (train destination: Den Haag Centraal, not the intercity, but the sprinter). At Vleuten station, go down the stairs and turn left to the bus station. Take bus #111 on Wednesday, weekends and special holidays. Bus will drop you right next to the castle. For other days, take bus #127 to Breukelen and get off at the “Kasteel” bus stop at Haarzuilens. From here, it’s a 15 minute walk to the castle.
Additional option: On a nice day, rent a bike in Utrecht and ride to the castle, about one hour and 15 minutes.

The Bronze Breast

Outside the Oude Kerk (Old Church), near the Red Light District, a bronze sculpture embedded in the cobblestones, appeared one night in 1993.

It was the fourth statue or sculpture to appear in a random spot in the city. The City Council had no idea who was behind the appearance of these statues and sculptures and had it removed. After extending an invitation to the anonymous maker to come to City Hall, the City Council finally discovered his identity. Shortly thereafter, they announced that he was a medical doctor who in his free time made sculptures and wanted to remain anonymous.

The sculpture was returned to its original location and can be seen there today.

You can read more about it at http://whatsupwithamsterdam.com/the-mystery-of-the-sculptures/

How-duh You Say Gouda?

For a couple of years, I have been wanting to make a trip to Gouda, the historic city known for its cheese, candles and delicious stroopwafels. Not wanting to make a connection in Utrecht, I had shied away from it until last weekend when I found out that there were two Sprinter trains per hour that run direct from Amsterdam Central Station to Gouda.

Knowing that it was winter and expecting some things to be closed, we assumed that there would be plenty to see nonetheless. Arriving in Gouda, we went to the information counter at the train station and inquired as to the location of the Tourist Information Office. The gentleman behind the desk gave us a map and instructed us on how to get into the center of town. We were then on our way.

It was a little early as we crossed the bridge and began walking toward the center of town. All stores were closed and the city seemed to still be asleep. The occasional family rode by on bikes but all was quiet as it was Sunday. Finally, we made our way into the main square, the Markt, and laid our eyes upon the impressive Stadhuis (Town Hall) which has stood on this site since 1450. The 17th and 18th century interior can be viewed in the oldest Gothic City Hall in the Netherlands on weekdays. Since visiting the interior was impossible and the misty rain made taking pictures a little difficult, so we decided to head over to someplace where we could go inside, St. John’s Church (St. Janskerk).

Sint-Janskerk, known for its stained glass windows, that are sometimes described as the most significant in the Netherlands, was a place that I had most wanted to visit. Realizing that it was Sunday, and hearing the singing inside, we assumed that we could tour the church once mass had ended.

Venturing over to the Gouda museum, we spoke with the lady behind the counter. There, we were given very disappointing news. There was not much to do or see on Sundays in Gouda…everything is closed. She suggested that maybe we could sneak into the church after services were complete, however, the only institutions that would be open was the Gouda museum and the Verzetsmuseum.

We paid our entry for the Gouda museum and began our tour. As we passed near a window on the second floor, I glanced out to the church and noticed that the service-goers were leaving the building. Sadly, I knew that by the time I made it outside of the building and to the church, it would probably be locked.

The Gouda museum, located on the little street, Achter de Kerk, which means “Behind the Church”, was where Erasmus, the theologian and scholar, played hoops as a child. The museum features the life of Erasmus, who grew up in Gouda as well as religious art of the 16th century, the “Haagse school” of the 19th century and pottery of the 20th century. The museum interestingly showcases many objects that have been unearthed during excavations and many items from when the buildings served as Catharina Gasthuis, a home for the homeless and sick, a chapel and at one time, a pharmacy. A walled garden with fine statues and a large terrace is also part of the museum.

Statue in the walled garden of the Gouda Museum

After our departure from the warmth of this educational gallery, we ventured out in to the wet afternoon, which had now changed…to a bone-chilling mix of ice and snow. Yes, well, it is winter. Yes, winter in the Netherlands. So, you have to expect this kind of thing, but boy does it make seeing a city difficult!

We followed our map to the location of the Molen De Roode Leeuw or the Red Lion windmill. The windmill is only open on Thursdays and Saturdays so we knew that our visit was one of observation. The impressive structure was quiet as we laid eyes on it, but at one time was a mass producer of flour.

Continuing our walk, we headed down Vest Street, along the canal, and passed near the Harbour Museum on our way to the city’s other windmill, Molen “t Slot”. You can visit this windmill when the sails are turning. Guess what? They were not, so, on we went, back to the center of town, shivering in our boots and fervently trying to keep dry.

As it was now after two o’clock, it was time to move indoors, warm up and get some much needed lunch. There are many restaurants surrounding the Markt and finding a cozy one was not a problem. My sandwich and beer was very good and well appreciated after the foul weather conditions that we had been experiencing as well as the disappointments of the day.

Looking through the Gouda tourist booklet and map, it was apparent that there were many things to do and see here…on days other than Sunday…and looking at all of the pictures in the booklet, when there are bright, blue, sunny skies, which probably means that you can experience these things during the warmer months. Sadly, as we looked out the window onto the square, we realized that the weather was only getting worse. At this point, we decided to call it a day and venture back to the train station and Amsterdam.

There were two things that I learned on this trip. The first was that when visiting smaller cities, attention should be paid to what exactly is open on certain days of the week. If I had been alone, I may have braved the weather for a bit longer and walked around the town, attempting to capture, while constantly wiping my camera lens, the charm of the historic buildings and canals. However brief and unsuccessful this visit was, it showed me what is in store for a future trip…Sint-Janskerk, canal tours, bike riding, the Verzetsmuseum, De Vrouwetoren Studio and in the spring and summer, the Gouda Cheese Market. The other thing I learned was that while I know that English speakers pronounce the name Gouda incorrectly…Goo-da…I thought that I was pronouncing it correctly in the Dutch way…How-duh. After listening to the locals, however, I learned that the Dutch pronunciation is more like Gow-da. Go figure!

So, now, I have earmarked the final page of the tourist booklet to remind me of all the dates of the wonderful things that I have to look forward to on a future trip…and I will be back to Gow-da!

For more pictures, visit my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Gouda Museum

http://www.museumgouda.nl
Address: Achter de kerk 14, 2801 JX Gouda, Oosthaven 9
Admission: Adults, 9€, Children (5-7), 2€
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday 11:00-17:00

Sint Janskerk

http://www.sintjan.com
Address: Achter de Kerk 16
Admission: Adults, 4,50€, Children (0-12), 1€, Students, 2,50€, Seniors, 3,90€
Hours: March through October, Monday-Saturday, 9:00-17:00, November through February, Monday-Saturday, 10:00-16:00

De Roode Leeuw (The Red Lion) Flourmill

Address: Vest 65/67
Hours: Thursday, 9:00-14:00, Saturday, 9:00-16:00

Molen “t Slot (Mill on the Castle)

Address: Punt 17
Hours: When the sails are turning