Snapping The Globe – Page 63 – Trips, Tips and Pics from a very frequent flyer

Day Tripper

Waking up to sunshine in England is an exciting thing, especially when you’ve planned to travel to it’s seventh largest city…Liverpool. Good weather is definitely a must when you are going exploring!

The train from Oxford Road station was about an hour’s journey to Liverpool Lime Street Station. Our hotel’s concierge had secured a map for us, so when we emerged from the station, we were well equipped to navigate the city’s streets.

Since this was the home of John, Paul, George and Ringo, we thought it fitting that our first order of business was to visit the award-winning Beatles Story. Located on the Liverpool Waterfront on the Albert Dock, it is a short 20 minute walk from the city center.

The last time I was in Liverpool, was before Merseytravel had taken over the Beatles Story in 2008…it was then called the Beatles Museum. Many improvements have been made including a second site at Pier Head which can be accessed with the same ticket.

Entering the museum, we were surprised to find a long queue to purchase tickets. Because every person uses an audio guide to navigate the museum, the institution must wait until audio guides are returned in order to allow others to purchase tickets and enter. Besides purchasing tickets online, another method of avoiding the wait is to visit the Pier Head site. There is hardly ever a line and your can purchase your ticket there while taking in the 4D animated movie and the Grammy Museum exhibition. Your ticket will then take you to the front of the line at the main Beatles Story location.

This fun and interactive exhibition is teeming with the Beatles history…from how the four young lads got their start to their ventures into solo careers. The museum contains detailed replicas of the Cavern Club and the stage where the band performed during their early years as well as a massive collection of unique photographs of the Beatles in Liverpool. Rare memorabilia, including John Lennon’s round glasses and George Harrison’s guitar are among the many items on display in the museum. The audio guide, narrated by John Lennon’s sister, Julia, guides you throughout the exhibition.

After our visit to both the Albert Dock and Pier Head locations, we walked along the Albert Dock, which is home to some of the city’s best bars and restaurants and two other well-known museums, the Merseyside Maritime Museum and the Tate Liverpool. The Merseyside Maritime Museum offers free exhibitions on seafaring heritage and floors of maritime history including Titanic displays, films and hands-on displays. The Tate Liverpool offers art lovers modern art in dockside warehouses.

We then made our way to inspect the Royal Liver Building, one of the most recognizable landmarks in the city of Liverpool. The building is the home of the Royal Liver Assurance group, opened in 1911, and is the fourth tallest structure in the city. The building is best known for its two large fabled Liver Birds that watch over the city and the sea. Legend has it that were these two birds to fly away, then the city would cease to exist.

Making our way up James and Lord Streets, we soon found ourselves on Mathew Street which is best known as the location of the Cavern Club, where the Beatles played often early in their career. Many other attractions include a statue of John Lennon, a Beatles store and several pubs formerly frequented by The Beatles. Worth checking out is a sculpture by Arthur Dooley entitled “Four Lads Who Shook the World”. Mathew Street also was the home of Eric’s, the music club that hosted many famous punk bands in the late 70’s.

Finally, it was time to head into one of Liverpool’s many pubs for a pint and to rest our weary feet before heading back to Lime Street station and Manchester.

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Beatles Museum

Albert Dock Summer (21Mar-31Oct) 9:00-1900, Winter (01Nov-31Mar) 10:00-18:00
Pier Head Summer (01Apr-31Oct) 10:00-18:00, Winter (01Nov-31Mar) 10:00-18:00
Open every day except December 25 and 26.
Admission: Adults (17+) £14.95, Senior citizens (60+) and students £11.50, Children (aged 5-16) £9.00, Babies (aged 0-4) free

Many Things in Manchester

Oh man! It’s great to be back in Manchester after so long!

Many years ago, I visited Manchester, England quite often. My airline discontinued service after a while, and my only source of authentic fish and chips became London. But that was okay, as I absolutely love going to London! About a year ago, service was reestablished but I still had not made it back to this historic British city. Last weekend, with a four day trip on my schedule, I carefully packed my bags and prepared for two days to reacquaint myself with the food, the architecture and the history.

After taking a short nap, I ventured out into the drizzly afternoon. Knowing that I only had about two hours to wander around before dinner, I was determined to see as much as I could. A short walk led me past the rounded facade of the Central Library and to the Victorian Gothic style Town Hall located in Albert Square.

A number of monuments and statues are on display here, the largest of which is the Albert Memorial. The monument to Prince Albert, Prince consort of Queen Victoria, consists of a marble statue of Albert standing on a plinth, facing west and occupies the center of the square. Within the square are several other statues including, William Ewart Gladstone, John Bright, Bishop James Fraser and Oliver Heywood. A fountain, commemorating the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria and designed by Thomas Worthington, now stands in the square after having been returned in 1997 from storage.

The square was also decorated for the Chinese New Year celebrations taking place that weekend throughout the city. The city of Manchester prides itself in being one of the best places in Europe to celebrate the Chinese tradition with parades, street fairs, attractions and fireworks.

Leaving Albert Square and taking a right onto Princess Street, I headed toward the third largest Chinatown in Europe to gaze upon its magnificent Chinese Arch adorned with dragons and phoenixes. Many tourists were in this area as well as locals completing their shopping in the many markets and shops.

Wandering through Chinatown, I ended up on Cross Street and headed through Exchange Square on my route to the medieval Manchester Cathedral.

The cathedral, located on Victoria Street, is certainly worth a visit as it has the widest nave of any in England and the stained glass are all quite modern after being replaced after WWII. The architecture is worshipful and pipe organ will be the center of attention when the restoration is complete and it has been reinstalled. Presently, scaffolding is erected in the center of the cathedral which impedes one’s entire view and does not lend to the quiet of the atmosphere.

At the moment, Julian Stair’s exhibition, Quietus Revisited: The Vessel, Death and the Human Body, is on display in this religious setting. Life-sized artist made funerary jars and sarcophagi, exploring the symbolic language of ceramic vessels and the role they have played in rituals surrounding death and bereavement can be seen throughout the cathedral.

Once I departed the cathedral, fighting the now steady rain and increasing wind, I managed to wander the streets of Manchester while taking in the beauty of the architecture in the city. Truly, this is a place where one should not walk with head bowed. Take the time to visit it’s landmarks but also to look upwards and outwards at what this city has to offer. Some of the buildings are truly breathtaking. There was much more to see, however, with conditions steadily deteriorating, it was time to call it a day and put off until another, the rest of Manchester’s treasures.

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Town Hall

http://www.manchester.gov.uk/townhall/
Town, Hall, Albert Square, Manchester, Lancashire M60 2LA, United
Open Monday-Saturday. Please note, some rooms are not always available for viewing if an event is taking place.

Manchester Cathedral

http://www.manchestercathedral.org/
Admission: free
Open 7 days a week

Awesome Akbar’s

Years ago, traveling to Manchester, England was a pretty regular occurrence. It wasn’t until much later, after we temporarily discontinued service, that I found out Manchester was known for some pretty fabulous Indian food and I had missed the boat.

My return to Manchester was much anticipated, especially having an extra day there to do some sightseeing. However, as much as I love my picture-taking and sightseeing, the thing I was looking forward to was getting to sample the Indian cuisine.

After braving the windy, rainy afternoon, I returned to the hotel to mourn the loss of my umbrella, dry off, freshen up and meet my crew for dinner.

Shortly after our arranged meeting, a brief discussion ensued as to which Indian restaurant we were going to dine. A place called Akbar’s won the debate!

Located a few blocks away, we arrived to an extremely crowded bar area overshadowed by a large Buddha statue.

The wait was going to be about an hour, but, hey, did I mention there was a bar? After spending time in London and experiencing the agony of parting with too many pound notes just to quench your thirst, the best part about this bar was that drinks were quite cheap! Bottles of Indian beer and healthy pours of wine were only 3 pounds.

Patrons continued to stream into the place, striving to find any niche, cubbyhole or square foot of floor space to wedge themselves into while waiting for their table. Soon, our table for eight was ready and we were ushered into the crowded and noisy dining room and seated at a long rectangular table. Our waiter soon appeared and recorded our orders, one by one.

One of my favorite entrees has always been Chicken Tikka Masala, however, lately, my taste has turned to Butter Chicken. Not seeing it on the menu, I inquired as to whether or not I was missing it. My waiter said, “no”, however, he would ask the chef to prepare it especially for me. The same thing happened when we asked for Cheese Naan. Needless to say, I was very impressed!

No long after our orders were taken, our waiter brought our naan to the table…one garlic and and one cheese. The restaurant has these metal “trees” that the huge naan hangs from. And it was huge! We all began tearing the delicious naan apart and soon after, our entrees were delivered.

My Butter Chicken…oh, what can I say? Mmmmm! I have never had Butter Chicken or any Indian food, for that matter, that tasted so delicious! I am not sure that I uttered any words, besides, “you all have to try this” because I was so busy stuffing my face. I did try some of my fellow diner’s dishes; Seafood Balti, Chicken Tikka Masala and the Chicken Tikka Makhani, the latter of which I have to say was a close second to my Butter Chicken. It was very apparent why this was an award winning restaurant.

Soon, our dining experience was complete, but I made sure to leave with a copy of their menu and the knowledge that I have truly tasted some of the best Indian food in the city (actually many cities)…and if you don’t want to leave the comfort of your hotel room…they deliver!

Akbar’s

http://akbars.co.uk
73-83 Liverpool Road, Manchester, M3 4NQ
Phone: 0161 834 8444
Asian Curry Award 2015, English Curry Award 2014
Best of Manchester and Restaurant of the Year
Other locations: Bradford, Leeds, Eastgate, York, Sheffield, Bradford Cafe de Akbar, Middlesbrough, Birmingham, Newcastle, Glasgow

The Old Bear

After a lackluster dinner, we were in search of gelato for dessert. While ambling along a cobble stoned alley towards our hotel, we spied the most quaint little restaurant I think I have ever seen. With vines covering the outside and a rustic, old-world feel, it was warm and beckoning. There were many tables on the street and within the large floor to ceiling open-shuttered doorways as well as many inside. Dark wood beams and floors with old wood tables further enhanced the cozy feeling inside. We all grabbed business cards and made a promise to come back at another time. Fortunately, my time was going to be a couple days later…I had another jaunt to Rome after this one and was determined to give this little gem a try.

On my next trip, after a fun bike ride along the Tiber, my friend and I began to contemplate our dinner plans. Digging the card out of my bag and presenting it to her, I inquired if she had ever been there. She had not and was game for anything, so off we went.

When we arrived, we were in luck…there were a few tables open, one being one of the ones that sat in the open doorways giving the feeling that you were on a balcony. As we sat higher than the street level tables, it gave us a remarkable view of the pedestrian traffic and the old buildings nearby.

The menu is not extensive but has enough choices to keep everyone happy. There are many pasta dishes as well as other fare and a complimentary bread basket with olive oil and delicious whipped butter. On this visit, we decided to split a tomato and mozzarella salad followed by gnocchi for me and truffle lasagna for my friend. Both of us were very pleased with our selections and left full and happy and with only a small dent in our wallets. With its proximity to Piazza Navona, we would have expected higher prices, but entrees averaged 10-12 euro. Additionally, the staff spoke fluent English which helped when ordering and trying to split and pay the bill.

After our visit, I told many people about the restaurant and found that many of my coworkers already knew about it, had been there and shared my enthusiasm for the place. Crew members can be quite particular about their food, so having someone else validate our experience was a plus!

Four months had gone by since that first visit and I again had a trip to Rome on my schedule. The first thought that popped into my head when I knew about this trip was that I was going to be able to dine at The Old Bear again. I couldn’t wait to try something different from the menu!

After some touring in the city, we had planned to meet a couple of our other crew members for dinner. They were given the address and had agreed to meet us there at 7:00 pm. There were five of us and it wasn’t very busy, so we were given the entire room, on the left, to ourselves.

Because it was winter, there were no tables on the street or in the doorways looking out to the street. Everything was shuttered up, but inside, the low level lighting and cozy wood made us feel warm and welcomed.

Our dining experience started with wine, beer and of course, bread, olive oil and whipped butter. A Mediterranean salad and grilled artichoke were next and plenty enough to split among the five of us. After hearing from a friend that the pumpkin lasagna was “to die for”, this was my dinner order.

Everyone was extremely happy with their dinner choices…gnocchi, truffle lasagna, fettuccine…but I have to say that not only was I happy…I was elated! This was one of the best meals I have ever had in all of Italy! It was hot, perfectly prepared and so delicious! Eccellente!

At the close of our meal, everyone was accommodated by the staff in splitting the bill in an easy, friendly manner and after hearing that we had an extra day in Rome, they were eager to give us many suggestions for sightseeing in the area. With the many tourist traps that exist in this city, it is so refreshing to find such an amazing establishment near a touristy area that offers phenomenal service and outstanding Italian food.

The Old Bear

Via dei Gigli d’Oro, 2-3-4, 00186 Roma
Hours: 1700-0100 Monday-Saturday
Tel. 06 682.100.09
http://www.oldbear.it/siamo_oldbear.html

Where Are You Going?

While visiting the catacombs on the Appian Way, it is worth taking a few minutes to step into the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante (Church of St. Mary in Palmis), otherwise known as Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis.

Having heard of this church, I wasn’t aware of it’s location near the catacombs. After our visit to San Callixtus, our tour guide recommended the short walk to visit this holy site. Located about 800 meters from the St. Sebasian Gate, Quo Vadis is a small baroque-style church built on the site, according to the bible, in which St. Peter met Jesus while St. Peter was fleeing persecution in Rome. Peter asked Jesus, “Lord, where are you going?” (Latin: Domine, quo vadis?) Jesus answered, “I am going to Rome to be crucified again”.

A marble slab is on display at the center of the church. A copy of the original, which is kept in the nearby Basilica of San Sebastiano fuori le mura, the slab contains the imprint of what is believed to be Jesus’ feet. Considered to be a miraculous sign, the footprints are what gave the church its name…palmis refers to the soles of the feet.

Prior to 1845, there was an inscription above the front door on the church’s façade which said, “Stop your walking traveler and enter this sacred temple in which you will find the footprint of our Lord Jesus Christ when He met with St. Peter who escaped from the prison. An alms for the wax and the oil is recommended in order to free some spirits from Purgatory”. Pope Gregory XVI found the advertising tone of the inscription very inappropriate and ordered its removal.

In this small church, you will also see a bust of Henryk Sienkiewicz, the Polish author of the famous historical fiction novel Quo Vadis: A Narrative of the Time of Nero which was published in 1886. It is said that Sienkiewicz was inspired to write his novel while sitting in this church.

In 1983, Pope John Paul II defined the chapel as “a place that has a special importance in the history of Rome and in the history of the church”.

After your visit to Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante it is an easy return to Rome. Step outside of the church; the bus stop (#118 and #218) to Rome is located immediately to the right.

For more pictures check out my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @SnappingtheGlobe.

Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante

casmadrid@tiscalinet.it
Via Appia Antica, 51, Rome Italy
Hours: 0800-1800, daily. Summer closing time 1900.
Masses: Winter weekdays, 1800, summer weekdays 1900, holidays, 0900, 1100, 1800 (winter), 1900 (summer)

Transportation

Bus #118 from Circus Maximus or Piazza Venezia
Bus #218 from Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano

Along the Appian Way

There are sixty known subterranean burial chambers in Rome, built along Roman roads, like the Via Appia, the Via Ostiense, the Via Labicana, the Via Tiburtina and the Via Nomentana. San Callixtus, Domitilla’s Catacombs, Saint Sebastian and Priscilla, among the sixty, each present a wealth of history.

After much research on the subject, a decision was made to visit San Callixtus catacombs as it was the oldest, the largest and held the tombs of almost all of the popes of the third century. Further research provided information on travel to San Callixtus. Since the catacomb is closed from 12:00-2:00 pm, a decision was made to try and reach the destination for the re-opening after lunch.

Our journey to San Callixtus was certainly a lesson in discerning correct data from the internet. There is a lot of information available on the internet, but careful attention should be paid as to when this information was posted. Bus lines, hours and admissions change constantly. A post that suggests certain routes may be outdated, as was the case for this adventure.

Beginning our journey to San Callixtus on the metro, we arrived at the Piramides stop with the intention of taking the #118 bus. Emerging from the station, we began to search for the bus stop. After walking the entire block around the station and not locating it, we finally asked a local gentleman for directions. Unfortunately, what we discovered was that bus #118 no longer runs from this station and his suggestion was that we backtrack on the metro to Circus Maximus in order to catch the same bus there.

Walking up to the street from the Circus Maximus metro station, I quickly spied the bus stop across the street. When the first bus arrived, we found that tickets could not be purchased from the driver and we had to return to the metro station to purchase a ticket (which is the same ticket as a metro ticket). If you have just arrived on the metro, you should be able to use your same ticket for the bus (tickets are good for 100 minutes), however, make sure that you have purchased a ticket for your return, as we did not see any places to purchase tickets near the catacombs.

Finally boarding the bus, we were soon headed toward the Appian Way…or so we thought. We soon realized that the bus comes from the Appian Way, passes Circus Maximus, heads down to Piazza Venezia and then returns to Circus Maximus on its way back to the Appian Way. So, if you decide to catch the #118 bus from Circus Maximus, take a left while facing the actual Circus Maximus when you walk out of the metro station and catch the bus on the same side of Via del Circo Massimo. This will eliminate an extra 10 minutes of a very bumpy bus ride.

The bus did not have signage or announcements stating the upcoming stops. We had never been in this part of Rome and were concerned about knowing where to disembark, so after asking the bus driver to alert us, he soon made us aware that we were arriving at San Callixtus.

Entering through the front gate, we proceeded down the pathway to the ticket office. After purchasing our tickets, we walked over to the entryway but found that guests are not allowed to enter the catacombs unescorted. The guided tours depart on the half hour and we had just missed one. Occupying ourselves, we walked around the immediate area and visited the gift shop. When we were nearing the half hour mark, we took our places near the signs which designated the different language groups. Soon, the tour guides began to arrive and began summoning us, by group, to the entrance. Our tour guide, a Filipino brother, ushered us off the main pathway where he could deliver the history of the catacombs. This is also where he shared the most devastating information that I could have received…no pictures! This news was very disappointing as I was looking forward to documenting our look into this historical place.

Finally, it was our turn to descend the steep stairs into the catacombs.

The catacombs of St. Callixtus are among the most important in Rome. Originating around the middle of the second century, there are more than fifty martyrs, 16 popes and many Christians buried within the complex. St. Callixtus became the official cemetery of the Church of Rome at the beginning of the third century after the deacon Callixtus was appointed by Pope Zephyrinus as the administrator of the cemetery.

Rome’s Christians did not have their own cemeteries in the first century. Unless they owned land, they resorted to common cemeteries, where pagans were also buried. During the second century, the first large-scale catacombs were carved through soft volcanic rock outside the city’s limits because burial within Rome’s walls was forbidden by law. Underground burial quickly became popular due to the high price of land and for the sense of community it gave. In addition to burials, the catacombs also served as hiding places for Christians during times of persecution.

During our tour though the many labyrinths beneath the earth, there were countless open chambers in which bodies had been placed and bound in linen. Each chamber was then sealed with a slab bearing the name, age and the day of death. No bones still exist in St. Callixtus to the degree as one would see in the catacombs of Paris.

Most notable in San Callixtus is the area known as “the little Vatican” or the area of the Popes”. Here, the nine popes and eight dignitaries of Rome’s third century church were laid to rest. Another area of interest is the Crypt of St. Cecelia, the patron saint of music, who was martyred in the third century and entombed where a statue now lies in remembrance. In 821, her relics were transferred from San Callixtus to Trastevere to the basilica dedicated to her.

Tours of San Callixtus usually last approximately 30-40 minutes; however, our tour guide was very thorough and provided a great deal of information. Our tour eventually lasted almost an hour. Walking away from San Callixtus, we felt very satisfied with the type of tour we were given and with the number of people in our English speaking tour group. Because San Callixtus has the largest parking lot, it tends to attract immense numbers of tour groups and tour buses. Expect long waits during summer months and busy times of the year. And make sure to visit the gift shop to purchase postcards of the interior! Remember, no pictures!!!

After, visiting San Callixtus, you can return to the bus stop in front of the entrance to catch the #118 and #218 buses or wander down the road at the rear of the property. Following this road takes you to the Church of St. Mary in Palmis and the #118 or #218 bus stop for your return back to the center of Rome.

For more pictures check out my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @SnappingtheGlobe.

Transportation

Bus #118 from Circus Maximus or Piazza Venezia
Bus #218 from Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano

San Callixtus

Open year round, except on Christmas, New Year’s Day and Easter Sunday
Hours: 0900-1200, 1400-1700, last tour departing at 1700
Admission: Adults, € 8, Children € 5

A Holy Ascent

A couple of years ago, I mapped out a number of churches in Rome that I was interested in visiting. Starting with Archbasilica of St. John Lateran, I had planned to work my way through the area and visit Basilica San Clemente al Laterano, Basilica de Santa Maria Maggiore and Santa Maria della Vittoria plus any other smaller ones that I ran across on my journey.

After leaving the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran, I noticed a large number of people exiting the building across the street. The exterior of the building had initially caught my attention, now I was intrigued. Where were they coming from?

Always ready to find something new and interesting, I made my way across the street, climbing the steps and stealthily entering the building, not sure what I would encounter.

An information desk was on the right, as I entered, and a large number of people were standing in the vestibule. Unsure of the kind of establishment I had found myself in, I noticed the people moving toward a stairway on the right side of the building. As I glanced upward, I noticed that there were people on the stairway not moving…not only were they not moving, they were kneeling. Every so often, as I watched, a few of the kneeling visitors moved up a stair, everyone behind adjusting their positions.

Confused as I was, I was also captivated, wondering what would motivate someone to climb stairs on their knees. Where was this painful ascent taking them?

Finally, I located a plaque on the wall detailing the history of the stairs.

Scala Sancta, or The Holy Stairs, is a set of 28 white marble steps located in a building that incorporates part of the old Lateran Palace. The stairs lead to the Sancta Sanctorum, the personal chapel of the early popes.

The history of Catholicism tells us that the stairs, brought to Rome in the fourth century by St. Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, were the steps leading up to the Jerusalem palace of Pontius Pilate, on which Jesus Christ stepped on his way to trial during the events known as the Passion.

The steps are now encased in protective wood and may only be ascended on the knees, a prayer to be said on each step. On November 13, 1893, Pope Leo XII granted that the faithful who ascended the steps of the Scala Sancta on their knees, with a contrite heart, praying and meditating on Our Lord’s Passion, may gain an indulgence of three hundred days for each step. This indulgence is applicable towards the souls in Purgatory.

Having such a big itinerary for the day, I reluctantly decided to wait until another to make the climb, but my curiosity was now piqued.

After that visit, I spoke with a friend who had visited the Scala Sancta on a trip with her son who is in Seminary College studying to be a Catholic priest. She related the story of what she experienced while climbing the stairs.

“We climbed these steps, on our knees, while praying. There is a section where you can touch and feel the actual marble. Not every step, but on some steps, as I prayed, I felt compelled to slide my hand inside the opening to feel the actual marble Jesus walked on. Each time I did it, I was overwhelmed and was literally taken back to that moment. I saw Jesus walking those steps and the pain I felt was unimaginable. I cried uncontrollable each time I had my hand on that marble. At one point, I moved to the next step and when I put my right knee down, I felt the most excruciating pain on my right calf. I really thought something had pierced my leg. I lifted it up to feel and nothing was there but the pain was still there, unbearable. As I knelt there, the only thing I could think was that was the pain Jesus felt as the nails went through his hands and feet. When I moved to the next step, the pain was gone completely. As I touched the marble again a few steps later, I had the same feeling, as if I was there, watching Jesus being condemned to death. I watched it through a mother’s eyes. I watched it through Mary’s eyes. When we were done, I was so completely mentally and physically drained but SO moved that I was allowed to experience this. It will stay with me forever!”-Lisa Killeen, Lafayette, La

A couple of weeks ago, while making our way to the catacombs, we found ourselves with a bit of extra time on our hands after learning that they would be closed for lunch during the early part of the afternoon. Discovering that my companion had never heard of the Scala Sancta, I decided that we should make a detour.

Exiting the metro station of San Giovanni and walking through the original fortified gateway along the present day Porta San Giovanni, we were mesmerized by the well preserved Roman Aurelian Wall.

Gazing at the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran, we strolled along the street between the church and the building housing the Scala Sancta.

Entering, we walked up to the foot of the stairs and watched in awe, the masses of pilgrims climbing the stairs on their knees. Sadly, because of the large number of people and being that it was near the lunch closing time of 1:00 pm, my kneeling ascent would, again, have to wait. Instead, we opted to climb the adjacent stairway.

At the top of the Holy Stairs, we visited the chapel where some of the best early Christian relics were kept in the crypt under the altar at one time, including the heads of saints Peter, Paul and young Agnes. Most of these have now been distributed to other churches around the city, but displayed in a glass case on the left wall is a fragment of the table on which the Last Supper was supposedly served. The exquisite 13^th century frescoes in the lunettes and on the ceiling are the real attractions and worth further inspection.

Finally, our visit had come to an end. Having been able to see the Sancta Sanctorum was an accomplishment, for me, on this visit; however, I once again, left without making my Holy ascent. It was a huge disappointment but a task that will most definitely will be put on my agenda for a future trip to the Holy City.

Check out more pictures on Facebook and Instagram, Snapping the Globe.

Scala Santa

http://www.scala-santa.it
Address: Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 14
Metro: San Giovanni
Admission-Scala, free
Admission-Sancta Sanctorum, €3,50
Opening Hours: Scala, 0600-1300 & 1500-1900 summer, to 1830 winter
Opening Hours: Sancta Sanctorum, 0930-1240 & 1500-1700 Monday-Saturday

Bones and Burns

Over the past twenty-five years, I am not even sure how many times I have visited Rome. I never get tired of it. It seems that this ancient city continually presents something new to experience each time I set foot on its cobblestone streets.

Always arriving with a plan, I usually forego sleep in order to catch the many things to do here, especially in winter when museums and exhibits close earlier. This time, my Google search for offbeat things to do, had offered up the Museum of the Sanitary Arts and the Museum of the Holy Souls of Purgatory. The first museum was going to be closed on the day of my arrival, but the latter was open until 7 pm. After two of my co-workers expressed interest in doing some sightseeing with me, I decided to take them for a visit to one of my favorite destinations in addition to the Museum of the Holy Souls of Purgatory…The Capuchin Crypt.

The Capuchin Crypt is a small space comprising several tiny chapels located beneath the church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini (Our Lady of the Conception of the Capuchins), near the Piazza Barberini. It contains the skeletal remains of 3,700 bodies believed to be Capuchin friars buried by their order. The bones, later exhumed, were arranged in odd decorative designs and were displayed with the shriveled and decayed skeleton of their fellow friars. The bones have been fashioned into crosses, coats of arms, crowns, rosettes, stars and are set into the ceilings and walls. There are even chandeliers designed from the bones.

There are six total rooms of the crypt. The Crypt of the Resurrection features a picture of Jesus raising Lazarus from the dead, framed by various parts of the human skeleton. The Mass Chapel does not contain bones and is used to celebrate Mass. The chapel also contains the tomb of Papal Zouaves, who died defending the Papal States at the battle of Porta Pia. The Crypt of Three Skeletons contains three skeletons, the center enclosed in an oval which represents life coming to birth. The three remaining are the Crypt of the Skulls, Crypt of the Pelvises and the Crypt of the Leg Bones and Thigh Bones, the names describing the contents of each.

The Crypt was renovated recently along with the construction of the adjacent Capuchin museum which is now the entrance to the crypt. The museum contains many relics and artifacts that tell the Capuchin story. The exhibition also pays homage to the friars that have been canonized for sainthood.

Years ago, the hotel that we utilized for layovers was located very near to this oddity. Visiting many times, I also took my son there when we were in Rome for his 13th birthday. It is always an intriguing place to visit. Now, with the addition of the museum, it is even more so.

After, our visit to the Crypt, we ventured into the church above the crypt, Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuchini. The church was commissioned in 1626, by Pope Urban VIII whose brother was a Capuchin friar. The church was designed by Antonio Casoni and contains a small nave and several side chapels. The chapels are notable as one contains the body of St. Felix of Cantalice and another is the tomb of the Blessed Crispin of Viterbo.

While walking thru the church, we encountered the custodian, Marius Girard. A delightful and friendly man from Sri Lanka, he offered to take us into the rear of the church. Behind the sanctuary, we discovered artworks created by the friars and the side window which is used by the pope to observe mass.

Finally, we departed and headed through the Piazza Barberini down to Via Del Corso. Crossing the Tiber river, near Castel San Angelo, we found Chiesa del Sacro Cuore del Suffragio (Church of the Sacred Heart of the Suffrage). Appearing quite dark, we thought that the church may have been closed. Finding the door unlocked, however, we headed toward the front of the church, following the sound of a voice. Located within the sacristy, the entry is a door in the sixth pan of the nave on the right. There, we found a young Italian gentleman seated at a desk. Inquiring about the Purgatory Museum, he sat upright and placed a basket on his desk for donations. After we each placed 2 euro in the basket, he grabbed his keys and headed to a doorway behind us. Ushering us into the room, he handed us a laminated guide in English, describing the display. Once he disappeared, we glanced around the small room, and into the next, however, finding that the “museum” was this one small area.

Oh well, it wasn’t the Vatican, but we decided to see what this tiny museum was all about.

A miraculous occurrence happened in the Order of the Sacred Heart’s chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary on July 2, 1897. During a fire, a scorched image of a face was left behind on the wall. The face was believed to be a trapped soul. Victor Jouet, a collector and French missionary, was inspired to build the purgatorial museum due to this occurrence and began to search for testimonies about the souls of Purgatory.

According to Catholic belief, a soul is stranded in purgatory until it atones for its sins, but can hasten its ascent to heaven through the prayers of loved ones still on earth.

A glass case houses many relics, which contain scorched handprints and other burn marks. These imprints are believed to be the product of souls begging their earth-bound loved ones to pray harder. Among the items on display is the nightcap of a man who discovered his deceased wife’s hand prints on it asking him to pray for her. Another amazing item is a book belonging to a woman whose mother-in-law reportedly appeared to her and asked for two masses in her honor. After the wish was fulfilled, a hand print was found on the book as a message of thanksgiving.

A quick walk around the interior of the lovely church was in order after our museum visit. The museum, small, but thought provoking, was certainly worth a half hour of our time. One of those little known places in the Eternal City, which most visitors have never heard of, we can now say that we have been there.

If you are a frequent traveler to Rome, have already seen the famous sights and are looking for something more offbeat, take the time to visit both of these unique institutions. You won’t spend your time waiting in long lines and you will have something intriguing and just a bit wacky to tell your friends and family about after your return.

For more pictures, check out my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe and on Instagram, Snapping the Globe.

Capuchin Crypt and Museum

Via Veneto 27, Roma 00187
Hours: 9:00-19:00 (last admission 18:30), Closed December 25
Admission: 8,50€ Adults, 5,00€ Children under 18 and adults over 65
Audio guide: 6,00€ double, 4,00€ single, available in Italian and English
Tours available: 65,00€ Italian, 80,00€ English, Spanish and French
No pictures are allowed.

Museum of the Holy Souls in Purgatory

Lungotevere Prati, 12, Roma
Hours: 9:00-12:30 and 17:00-19:00
Admission: Free, donations accepted

Let Me Tell You About Tel Aviv

One of the biggest surprises in my life was visiting Tel Aviv.

Knowing virtually nothing about the country of Israel at the time, I swapped onto a Tel Aviv trip thinking that it was another, Istanbul, since the rotation numbers were very similar. My husband, under the impression that it was unsafe to travel there, had previously warned me about bidding or swapping onto the trip, so, when I realized my mistake, I flew into a panic.

Secretly, I really wanted to go there, but I was in turmoil as to how I should I handle it? Should I lie to my husband and tell him I was traveling elsewhere? Should I honor his wishes and re-swap the trip for another? Should I tell him about it?

Finally, I decided to come clean. Admitting my mistake, I expressed my wish to keep the trip. I certainly did not want something to happen to me and have him find out I was there in that fashion.

Years after flying that trip and visiting Tel Aviv and Jerusalem for the first time, I still think about that experience; how I almost gave up one of the most amazing experiences for the unfounded wishes of another.

Today, I still enjoy visiting Tel Aviv as much as those first few times. Back then, it was still so new and exciting to tell people that I was visiting a place that few people I knew would ever go. Now, I enjoy visiting because it’s so familiar; my favorite restaurants, bars, nightclubs, markets, tours, beaches.

My husband still gives me a hard time.

This past weekend, I went to Tel Aviv for the first time in two years. It wasn’t that I didn’t want to visit…recently, when I had been awarded the trip, I needed time off or had something else that needed taking care of. It’s also a hard trip to work…long flight hours, two all-nighter flights and a sometimes demanding clientele.

We arrive late in the afternoon, and after working more than 11 hours, we are quite exhausted. The trick to this late arrival is to keep on going. So, after a quick shower and change, we meet up for happy hour and a nice dinner…and sometimes dancing! Yes, the nightlife here is amazing with some outstanding bars and clubs.

Having a strong desire to see what the country of Israel has to offer, I usually book a tour for the next day, even knowing how tired I will be after touring all day and then having to work a 12 hour flight home. I have visited the cities of Caesarea, Acre, Megiddo, Haifa, Galilee, Nazareth, Jerusalem, Masada and swam in the Dead Sea…sometimes on more than one occasion. Visiting the many historical and biblical sights, one realizes why so many Christians make the pilgrimage to this country.

One city, that I had never had the opportunity to visit, was Bethlehem. A tour of the birthplace of Jesus had been on my agenda for this layover, but realizing that there were many things that needed accomplishing, I decided that postponing the tour until another time would be best.

Catching up on my sleep, I got a somewhat late start to my day. After finally opening my balcony window and seeing the oceanfront view and the beautiful sunny weather awaiting me, however, I quickly got a move on.

Wandering over to my favorite falafel place, Yashka Shawarma and Grill, I found that they had done a bit of remodeling, but the falafel pita was still as good as I remembered. I also love the wide array of salads available with your food! Cabbage and beets? Never was a fan until I came to Israel!

Walking down, Dizengoff Street, I discovered a unique and colorful fountain, which I had never seen before. I stopped to appreciate the dancing water and accompanying music for a few minutes. Located on a pedestrian bridge, many people seem to congregate here to enjoy the view.

My next stop was the Dizengoff Shopping Center to purchase a bracelet charm. Having to wait in line at the mall entrance and then have your bags searched, really makes one appreciate the freedom that we enjoy in our own countries. Knowing that this is for everyone’s safety, the locals seem to take it all in stride and patiently wait their turn.

Making my way down King George street, I soon found myself at my final destination; the Carmel market.

The Carmel market is an amazing assault on your senses and pocketbook. There are clothes, purses and jewelry to buy on one end and tons of fresh vegetables, desserts, juices, fresh fish and other food items on the other. You can get a suitcase or skincare products…you name it…it’s there. After saying hello to my friend, Leon, who sells Dead Sea skin products, I set about finding the olive oil that I had come searching for. Three bottles later, my purse was so heavy, I decided that a detour to the hotel would be in order.

Not quite ready to call it a day, I dropped my purchases in my room and headed out toward the beach area. My favorite bike rental place, Pinky’s, closed a few years ago, so for the first time, I used the Tel-O-Fun bike rental kiosk, closest to my hotel, to rent one of the bikes available throughout the area. The bikes are rented thru a credit card swipe and rates vary according to time used.

Riding down the promenade toward Jaffa, the walkway was crowded with both Israelis and tourists, enjoying the 70 degree weather, clear skies and ocean view. Soon arriving in the old port city, I stopped to admire the sweeping view of the city of Tel Aviv and the occasional fisherman hoping to secure dinner.

Having visited Jaffa many times, I decided to ride along the waterfront to the port located at the rear of the city, stopping occasionally for the many pictures that present themselves along the way. The numerous restaurants, here on the waterfront, were bustling with patrons enjoying fresh seafood and Mediterranean fare and the art galleries were teeming with customers.

After retracing my steps, I walked my bicycle to the main street. Here you will find the Jaffa flea market, home to a treasure trove of antiques and handmade and secondhand items. Take the time to explore the many alleyways, covered walkways and outdoor verandas that have been operating for more than 100 years. There are many souvenir shops and clothing stores to satisfy the most discerning shopper and many restaurants to satisfy any foodie’s cravings.

Here on the main street, one can also gaze upon the clock tower that greets visitors at the entrance to Jaffa. The clock tower is one of seven built in Palestine during the Ottoman period. The others are located in Safed, Acre, Nazaret, Haifa, Nabius (West Bank) and Jerusalem, the last being the only that has not survived. The tower stands in the middle of Yefet street at the northern entrance to Jaffa. Made of limestone, it incorporates two clocks and a plaque commemorating the Israelis killed in the battle for the town in the 1948 Arab-Israeli War.

Finally, as the afternoon was drawing to a close, I began to make my way back down the beach toward my hotel. Knowing that my time in Tel Aviv was ending, I stopped many times to watch the glowing sun as it dipped into the sea.

Later that evening, as we headed to the airport for the long return home, I realized how grateful I was that I, once again, have had the opportunity to return to this intriguing country.
For more pictures of Tel Aviv and Jaffa, please check out my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, Snapping the Globe.

Yashka Shawarma and Grill
Dizengoff Street, 105 (corner of Frishman and Dizengoff)
Try the falafel pita

Carmel Market
Location: Extends the length of HaCarmel Street, from Magen David Square to the end of Carm lit, and across the nearby streets of the Keren Ha Teimanim neighborhood and Nahalan Binyamin pedestrian mall.
Hours: Sunday to Thursday from 8 am until sundown and Friday from 8 am until 2 pm.
Transportation: From the New Central Bus Station: Dan Bus lines 4 or 205. Public taxi minibuses 4 or 5 to Allenby Street. From Central Train Station: Dan Bus lines 18, 61 or 82. From University Train Station: Dan Bus lines 24 or 25.
Parking: Ahuzat HaHof Carmel-Kalisher Street, corner with HaCarmel Street. Pay lot with 313 spaces.
ATMs and public restrooms available.

Tel-O-Fun Bikes https://www.tel-o-fun.co.il/en/
Cost: Access Fee plus Hourly rental
Daily Access Fee 17 ILS
Daily Access Fee-Saturdays and Public Holidays 23 ILS
Weekly Access Fee 70 ILS
Annual Access Fee 280 ILS
Cumulative time from rental beginning:
Up to 30 minutes 0 ILS
Up to 60 minutes 6 ILS
Up to 90 minutes 12 ILS
Up to 150 minutes 32 ILS
Up to 210 minutes 72 ILS
Up to 270 mintes 153 ILS
Please note: Allow time to watch the video for instructions on returning the bike and allow time to find an alternate location for bike return. When arriving at my original location, I watched the video but did not realize that the rod that is to be inserted into the bike to lock it, was not working (wire tie prevents it from being inserted all the way in). I had already pressed the button to return the bike, so the bike could not be returned to a different stall or a different location. Thankfully, a gentleman and his wife came to my assistance, calling the Tel-O-Fun office for me. A code was given to unlock the bike, allowing the proper return procedures.

Jaffa Flea Market
Hours: Open 6 days a week, from Sunday through Friday, from morning through early evening hours.

Nice, Short and Sweet

“No dinner and no watching movies tonight!” I had threatened everyone in my family to get lots of sleep on the flight from New York to Nice. Since we were not arriving at the Cote D’Azur airport until 11:00 am, it was critical to quickly drop our things at the hotel and hit the streets, making the most of our day.

For once, everyone listened!

Traveling across the ocean to see all that the Cote D’Azur has to offer is a monumental task for someone visiting for a week. We had a day and a half!

Quickly showering and changing, we were in and out of our hotel within an hour. An impressive feat for four people! In the interest of time and due to our proximity to the Gare de Nice-Ville, we decided to take the train into Monaco, although I knew that the bus route was much more scenic.

A quick 20 minutes later and after getting our passports stamped (fun thing to do in the train station at the Tourist Information office), we made our way out of the Monaco train station and into the slightly rainy day.

Walking quickly, my sons gawking at the vast array of expensive cars along the way, we made our way up the steep pathway to the Prince’s Palace of Monaco. Although the palace is closed at this time of year, we stopped for a bit to watch the guards. Being wintertime, it was nice to have the square pretty much to ourselves, not missing the massive amounts of tourists which visit during other times of the year.

Wandering the quiet, near-vacant streets down to the Cathedral, we soon entered the Roman-Byzantine-style building. Much time was taken to admire the beauty of the church and to pay our respects at the graves of Princess Grace and Prince Ranier, as well as the other sovereigns that are laid to rest here.

We were soon on our way back down to the marina, checking out the numerous yachts moored here, each seemingly larger than the next. Having been in Monaco before and wandered around this area, I knew that my children and husband would enjoy seeing these magnificent vessels…and they certainly did! Remembering the 48 foot sailboat that we vacationed on this summer and the tight quarters, it was mind-boggling to think that some of these boats were larger and more opulent than our house!

We ended our quick tour at the Monte Carlo casino. If I had thought that my family would enjoy the boats, then I knew that they were going to enjoy seeing the expensive cars parked out front. My boys were in heaven! Ferraris, Maseratis, Bentleys…you name it. It was like being at a car show.

Since our children were under the age of 18, it was impossible to visit the Casino, so we decided to head back to Nice for a nice dinner. Catching the bus back to Nice was the easiest (and cheaper) option from this part of town. Wanting to end up near Old Town, the #100 bus dropped us near Place Garibaldi, where we found a wonderful resturant.

Early the next day, we were headed to St. Paul de Vence. Having always wanted to visit this medieval city, I was wide awake and coaxing everyone to grab a quick bite to eat and walk quickly to the bus stop. However, getting to the bus stop, we found the Promenade de Anglais to be shut down to traffic and buses re-routed to other streets due to a marathon. Not sure if we were at the correct stop for the #400 bus, we decided to jump on the #99 airport bus, knowing that the marathon course did not extend that far. From there, we would catch the #400 bus, forgetting that the #99 bus fare was 6 euro each, instead of 6 euro for all four of us. Nonetheless, we arrived at the airport and were soon on our way, finally figuring out (after missing one bus), that we had to wave them down.

The plus side to all of this was that the ride did not seem quite as long…and we made it to St. Paul de Vence. The downside was that it cost a total of 30 euros instead of 6 euros.

I have read that the village of St. Paul de Vence can be extremely busy during the summer months, with tourists walking shoulder to shoulder. Being a Sunday morning, the village seemed to be just waking up with our arrival.

The village is very quaint and beautiful. Sitting on a hill, you can see it from afar on your bus ride. After arriving at the bus stop, it is a quick walk into the village. There are many art galleries, shops and museums to while away your time as well as quite a few restaurants to grab a nice lunch. There are many photographic opportunities throughout the village as well as many scenic overlooks.

After our visit, we were soon on the #400 bus back to Nice. The bus’ final stop was near the beach. Our children wanted to see this beach that is filled with colorful rounded pebbles instead of sand. It was a windy day, but sunny and warmer than the day before. The Promenade Anglais and the beach area was filled with many people enjoying the beautiful weather.

We headed into the Flower Market area, which was now closed for the day and on to Parc de la Colline du Chateau (Castle Hill), a tourist must-see and one of the best lookouts in Nice. Although we had done much climbing and walking while in St. Paul de Vence, we knew we had to climb to the top for the panoramas of the city.

Not to be disappointed, we were rewarded with amazing views of the city as well as a beautiful park, ruins and a waterfall at the top.

Finally, it was on to Old Town in search of a Happy Hour that would help us to forget the aches and pains that my husband and I were experiencing from all the climbing that we had experienced that day.

There were so many more things to see and experience in Nice, but we are only human after all! Fitting in what we could, I think my husband’s and son’s first experience in the Cote D’Azure was a fantastic one. For all the things we missed this time…we’ll save them for another weekend!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Transportation

Bus #99 takes you from the airport directly to Gare de Nice-Ville. From there you can catch the train, tram or another bus. €6 per person
Trains leave regularly from Gare de Nice-Ville for Monaco and other coastal cities.
Bus #100-Nice to Monaco and return (about 45 minutes). €1,50
Bus #400-Nice to St. Paul de Vence and return (about 1 hour) €1,50

Prince’s Palace of Monaco

State Apartments-Adults €8, Children (6-14) €4
Private Collection of Antique Cars- Adults €6.50, Students (6-14) €3
State Apartments and Private Collection of Antique cars-Adults €11.50, Children (6-14) €5
Opening times-State Apartments from 26th of March to October 16, 2016

Monte Carlo Casino

Every day from 2:00 pm
Proper attire required. No shorts, sports shoes or flip flops
Jackets recommended after 8 pm
From 9 am til 12 pm, open to groups and tours, every day except during the Formula 1 Grand Prix. Admission fee €10 per person, €7 per person for groups over 10 people
Admission fees payable in cash at the entrance
€10 admission fee per person, over the age of 18 years and not banned from gambling
€10 additional admission fee for entry to private rooms

Parc de la Colline du Chateau (Castle Hill)

October 1 thru March 31, 8:30-18:00
April 1 thru September 30, 8:30-20:00

For more pictures, check out my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, Snapping the Globe.