travel – Page 52 – Snapping The Globe

Fool Your Eye

It has been said that the Italians love a good optical illusion.

If you do too, when in Rome, here is the place for you. The church of St. Ignatius of Loyola, located near the Pantheon, not only boasts breathtaking frescoes and amazing architecture, but a fake dome!

Founded in 1551 by St. Ignatius, as a church of the Roman College and inspired by the Jesuit mother church, the Church of the Gesù in Rome. Completed in 1650, it was designed with a Latin cross plan and numerous side chapels, the focus being on the high altar at the end of the eastern apse. Decorated with colored marble, animated stucco figural relief, richly ornamented altars, extensive gilding and Corinthian pilasters ringing the entire interior, it contrasts with its unassuming facade overlooking the Piazza di S. Ignazio.

What stands this church, designed by Jesuit mathematician Orazio Grassi, apart from so many others in Rome, is it that when money was not available for a dome, a painter was hired to create the effect of one.

When entering the church, the overall effect is one of vastness and richly appointed ornamentation. My advice to you is to save the best part for last. Take your time to walk along each side of the church and inspect each of the chapels and the main altar. Each of the chapels are different and worthy of individual inspection containing amazing altarpieces and artwork.

The chapel in the right transept, dedicated to St. Alloysius Gonzaga, houses the remains of Cardinal St. Robert Bellarmine and a ceiling painted by Andrea Pozzo who also created the fresco ceiling in the chapel in the left transept. Pay close attention to his work here as you will see it again. The chapel in the left transept also houses the relics of Saint John Berchmans. The chapel just to the right of the church’s presbytery (at the south-east corner) houses the funerary monuments of Pope Gregory XV and his nephew, Cardinal Ludovisi, the church’s founder.

Move into the center of the church. The main highlights of the church are the magnificent frescoes created by Andrea Pozzo. The ceiling painting, which covered the whole length of the nave, depicts the entry of Ignatius into paradise.

Next, stand on the marble disc at the center of the church, and gaze upward, you will see a dome. But is it?

Figures that are in reality painted horizontally seem to rise up towards the heavens. The dome also seems to have a real vaulting, however, with closer inspection, you will see that it is really flat…a trompe-l’oeil. A true masterpiece by Andrea Pozzo.

Leaving the church, take a few minutes to admire the Piazza Sant’Ignazio spread out before the church. The square with its richly hued baroque/rococo styled buildings, designed by Raguzzini, house an office of the Carabinieri, the Italian paramilitary police.

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St. Ignazio Church

http://santignazio.gesuiti.it/en/
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0730-1900, Sundays and holidays, 0900-1900. Free guided tours, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, 1500-1800.
Admission: free
Getting There: Located near the Pantheon

Saturday Night Special

It’s Saturday night in Rome. What to do? What to do?

A club? The city’s hottest restaurants? Seeing the Coliseum aglow? If you find yourself in the Circus Maximus area of Rome with nothing to do and none of the above appeal to you…here’s a suggestion.

Every Saturday night at midnight, a Pilgrimage starts at the southeast end of Circus Maximus (near the metro station and the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations) at the Piazza Porta Capena. This Pilgrimage heads on foot toward the Madonna del Divino Armore Sanctuary and arrives around five o’clock on Sunday morning. It takes place from the first Saturday after Easter until the last Saturday of October and on December 7 at the eve of the Immaculate Conception. The route follows the Old Appian Way until the church, Quo Vadis (see my blog post “Where Are You Going?”) is reached and a turn is made on to the Via Ardeatina. Here, the route continues over the Catacombs of St. Callisto (see my blog post “Along the Appian Way”) and past the Mausoleum of the Ardeatin Caves, where personal intentions are brought to the feet of the Virgin Mary.

The starting point is marked with a sign.

The reason behind the pilgrimages? In the early 1700’s, on one of the towers of the Castel di Leva, there was a votive image of the Virgin Mary, portrayed as sitting on a Throne, holding the child Jesus in her arms and the Holy Spirit, descending upon her as a dove. This image was considered extremely holy by the local shepherds and many miracles were attributed to the image on this site. In September of 1740, the image was removed from the tower and transferred to a nearby estate called “La Falconiana” where a small church dedicated to St Mary ad Magos stood. Five years later, the image was brought back to its original location where a church had been erected in its absence and was later consecrated by Cardinal Carlo Rezzonico, who later became Pope Clement XIII. Shortly after, pilgrimages began and became more numerous, continuing until today.

Pilgrimage to the Madonna del Divino Armore Sanctuary

When: Saturdays at midnight from first Saturday after Easter until the last Saturday in October and December 7.
Getting There: Metro Line B, stop Circus Maximus

Bath Time

Last January, in Rome, while walking from the Piramides metro station back to Circus Maximus, my friend and I encountered two things…a man with a shoe fetish (don’t ask!) and ruins that I did not know existed in that area.

Checking out a map a couple of weeks ago, I began to retrace our route and realized that these ruins were the Baths of Caracalla. A little more investigation, revealed that these ruins are open to the public and a short walk from Circus Maximus. Since it was a little off the beaten path, I decided that it might be an interesting place to visit with not very many tourists. Anything to avoid the summer crowds of Rome, right?

After exiting the metro station, I headed northeast and took a right onto the Via delle Terme di Caracalla. About a five minute walk, I found the entrance to the Baths of Caracalla facing the main road, on the right, adjacent to Via Antonina.

Deciding to forego the audio guide, I headed onto the site and followed the marked path.

The ruins of these baths are quite extensive and very well preserved. As you walk among the remains of this vast site, it is easy to visualize what an enormous undertaking it must have been for its time.

The Baths of Caracalla were the second largest Roman public baths, built in Rome during the reigns of Septimius Severus and his son, Caracalla between 212 and 217 AD. According to records, the idea for the baths were drawn up by Severus and completed during the lifetime of Caracalla. 13,000 prisoners of war from Severus’ campaigns in Spain were ordered to clear the land and 600 marble workers and 6,000 tradesmen were employed to build the baths.

The baths were designed with a central axis and included three fundamental bathing rooms, the frigidarium (a cold pool), the tepidarium (a lukewarm pool) and the calidarium (a hot pool). The frigidarium, located in the middle of the building was bordered by two monumental gymnastic areas which were open to the sky. In these zones, or Palestra, games and competitions were held and also used to run and workout. An Olympic sized pool was located at the back of the building and devoted to recreational swimming and two libraries and extensive gardens were available for the guests to enjoy. The baths could accommodate 1600 bathers who could move from one area to another and use the pools for socialization as well as sanitary facilities.

Visiting the premises today, you are guided through walkways which assist in preserving the many mosaics that still remain The ceiling is nonexistent, however, most of the walls stand tall and many of the breathtaking arches are still intact, which once lent to both stability and aesthetics. Much of the art that decorated this magnificent space has been removed and is now displayed in museums throughout the world. Twenty-two of the columns that once stool tall were also removed in the 12th century and can be found the Trastevere area of Rome, in the church of Santa Maria.

During the summer, the Teatro dell’Opera holds concerts on the premises offering the Baths of Caracalla, lit up during the nighttime hours, as an amazing backdrop.

If you have been to Rome on numerous occasions and are in search of the city’s other treasures, this is one to behold. Uncrowded and unspoiled, it is easy attainable and adjacent to other attractions in the area. A short walk or metro ride from the Coliseum and Forum you can combine the Baths with a visit to the Catacombs (bus departs from Circus Maximus-see my blog post, Along the Appian Way), a walk around Circus Maximus or a visit the Mouth of Truth in the church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin.

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The Baths of Caracalla

http://www.archeorm.arti.beniculturali.it/en/archaeological-site/baths-caracalla
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 0900-1830, Monday, 0900-1400. Closed December 25 and January 1. Ticket office closes one hour prior to site closing.
Admission: Adults, €6,00, Reduced, €3,00 for European Union citizens ages 18 to 25 and for European Union teachers. Visitors 17 and under, free. Appian Way ticket: single ticket valid 7 days at 3 sites (Baths of Caracalla, Villa of the Quintilii, Mausoleum of Caecilia Metella).
Audio guides available
Getting There: Bus 118 – 160 – 628. Metro Line B, Circo Massimo stop.
For summer opera information: http://www.music-opera.com/en/7871-terme-di-caracalla/date_2016-03-18,2017-09-30?gclid=CjwKEAjw7qi7BRCvsr3N58GvsTkSJAA3UzLvR4zZhQFgtyzi3te4mwlF1X-Ft89y1dkr9CTkGiImtBoCCNrw_wcB

St. Paul’s Outside the Walls

St. Peters

St. John the Lateran

St. Mary Major

St. Paul’s Outside the Walls

Of the four major basilicas in Rome, I had been to three. It was time to venture a little out of the city center in search of the latter.

Strangely, I had never heard of St. Paul’s Outside the Walls. While reading a thread about the bus system in Rome, I came across the name from someone seeking travel instructions. This basilica, while occupying land in Italian territory, is not within the territory of the Vatican City State as are the other three. Located outside the Aurelian walls of Rome, hence its name, the Holy See fully owns the Basilica, however, Italy is legally obligated to recognize the Vatican’s full ownership.

Getting to St. Paul’s is not extremely difficult. Discovering that the basilica is adjacent to a metro stop of the same name, I decided that taking the metro would be the easiest way to travel. Arriving at the station of Basilica San Paolo, the dome of the basilica was easily spotted. Following a group of nuns past the clock tower ensured I was on the right path!

Arriving at the entrance on the west side of the basilica, I was shocked to see something I would only expect at St. Peter’s…a long line waiting to go through security. The line was not very organized and much too wide. People were busy talking and not moving forward, while others were walking up the sides of the line and moving ahead. After a twenty minute wait, I finally made my way up and past security.

There are many things that set this basilica apart from the others. When entering the structure, the lovely columns that line the front of building enclose a remarkable courtyard. Until you reach the center, you don’t quite see the beauty of the basilica’s gold front facade with the detailed mosaics that catch the sunlight. In the courtyard stands an imposing statue of the apostle Paul amidst an impeccably maintained garden .

Interesting to note is that this courtyard and facade as well as many things within the church were all added in the nineteenth century. Of all the churches in Rome, this particular one had preserved it primitive character for 1,435 years until it was destroyed by fire in 1823. Eager to see the basilica rebuilt, the world contributed to its restoration; the Viceroy of Egypt sent pillars of alabaster and the Emperor of Russia, malachite and lapis lazuli for the tabernacle. The Italian government ensured that work on the principle facade, looking toward the Tiber, was completed and declared the church a national monument.

Walking up to the basilica, a central bronze door, with inlaid silver, is the focal point. It was created in 1930 by Antonio Maraini, after the original, a gift from Pope Gregory VII in 1070, was damaged by the fire. (The original, can be seen, restored, on the inside of the basilica). The reliefs on the door present scenes from the lives of Saints Peter and Paul. More importantly, this door is flanked on the right by one of the four Holy Doors in Rome, as declared by the Vatican. The Holy Door is only opened during Jubilee years by the Pope (once every twenty-five years).

When entering the church, you are overcome by the vastness of the space only broken by the four rows of twenty granite columns that separate the central nave from its aisles. The original columns of the church before the fire had been taken from ancient Roman temples and were unable to be salvaged.

Most interesting are the circular paintings of the popes that line the space, something not seen in the other basilicas. Most of these paintings were damaged by the fire and restored, but some of the inscriptions have been eternally lost. The pictures begin with St. Peter to the present pope, Francis. Very few spaces remain and legend has it that when these spaces are filled, a major event will occur.

Walking farther into the basilica, you will find a recessed area with circular stairways leading down on either side. Here you will find the surviving links of the chain, on a silk background, that according to tradition, held St. Paul while he was a prisoner in Rome between 61 and 63 AD. These chains are illuminated and displayed in a case near his tomb which is located under the altar.

Near the front of the altar area, take note of the carved Pachal candle which stands more than 16 feet high and was made in the 12th century by Nichola dell’Angelo and Pietro Vassalletto.

At the rear of the church are the chapels, the Blessed Sacrament Chapel, the Chapel of Saint Benedict, the Chapel of St. Laurence and the Chapel of St. Stephen. Above the Tabernacle in the Blessed Sacrament Chapel hangs a magnificent crucifix sculpted by Pierre Cavallini. This is the crucifix of which Christ turned his head toward St. Bridget of Sweden and gave her the “15 Prayers of St. Bridget”.

While in the apse, take a look upward at the only remaining part of the medieval basilica, the 13th century mosaic, created by Venetian artists. This breathtaking mosaic, ordered by Pope Honorius III, depicts Christ on a throne flanked by the Apostles Peter, Paul, Andrew and Luke.

At the end of the right transept is the entrance to the cloisters and the Chapel of Relics. An entrance fee is required to enter, but worth every penny to see the cloisters with their graceful, twisted mosaics-filled columns that line the arcades. These cloisters, built between 1208 and 1235 by the Vassalletti family, were untouched by the fire of 1823 and have often been described as the most beautiful in Rome. The walls of the walks are lined with ancient sculpture and epigraphy recovered in excavations, mostly during the rebuilding of the church. In the center of the cloisters is a rose garden. This area was relatively empty during my visit, allowing me to enjoy the peace and solitude which should accompany an area of that nature. The Chapel of the Relics is worth only a quick visit now that the Chains of St. Paul are displayed within the church.

After exiting the church, a visit to the well-outfitted gift shop offers not only rosaries and other religious objects, but bottles of wine made by the Benedictine monks (not sold on Sundays or religious holidays). You can also stop in to the cafe, next to the gift shop, for a snack or drink.

If visiting all four basilicas on your trip to Rome is a priority, then a trip to St. Paul’s Basilica is in order. Many things set this particular basilica apart from the others in the city and certainly warrant visitation. Although a little farther than the other attractions of the great city of Rome, it is not extremely difficult to reach and worth the extra effort to mark St. Paul’s off of your “church bucket list”.

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Basilica de San Paolo

http://www.basilicasanpaolo.org/
Piazzale San Paolo, 1, 00146 Roma
Admission: Basilica entrance, free. Cloister, €3.00
Hours: Basilica, Daily, 0700-1830, Cloister, 0830-1815
Getting There: Metro, Line B, stop, Basilica San Paolo. Bus, Number 23 (Pincherle-Parravano), stop, Ostiense-S. Paolo

Padua or Padova? How Do You Say It?

Crowds? I hate them!

As much as I love experiencing warm weather in Venice, the one thing that keeps me away is the large number of tourists that descend upon the city during the summer months. Some go to see the beautiful canals and architecture, some for the delectable Italian fare and many go, as it is the starting point for their cruise adventure. No matter what their reason, they crowd the narrow streets and the attractions making it difficult to enjoy the city intimately. Sometimes, I avoid Venice altogether during June, July and August. Sometimes, I travel there only during the off-season, coat in hand. Sometimes I grin and bear it. Sometimes…I find an escape.

There are many lovely cities near Venice that are easily reached by train or bus. One such city, Padova, is a quick train ride from the city and a nice respite from the summer madness.

Padova, located about 25 miles west of Venice, claims to be the oldest city in northern Italy. Standing on the Bacchiglione River, which surrounds the city like a moat, it hosts the University of Padova, founded in 1222, where Galileo Galilei was a lecturer and was the setting for most of the action in Shakespeare’s “The Taming of the Shrew”.

Many are confused by the different spellings of the city’s name, Padova and Padua…simply put, Padova is the Italian spelling and Padua, the English.

An extremely picturesque city, there are many arcaded streets opening into large piazzas and a large number of bridges crossing the Bacchiglione river. Not immense by any means, it is the perfect size to visit on a day trip or to spend a few nights.

There are many things to see within the city, including the most famous of the churches, the Basilica di Sant’Antonio da Padova. Many pilgrims make the trip to Padova every year to visit this historic basilica, which honors St. Anthony, the patron saint of lost and stolen things. Dating back to 1230, the basilica contains many great works of art as well the bones of St. Anthony and relics of the saint (see my post “Finder of Lost Things and People”).

Another very famous place to visit in Padova is the Scrovegni Chapel. Called the “Arena Chapel”, because it stands on the site of a Roman-era arena, it houses many remarkable frescoes by Giotto, detailing the life of the Virgin Mary. These frescoes have been deemed to be of the most important in the world. Commissioned by Enrico degli Scrovegni, a wealthy private banker, it served as a private chapel once attached to his family’s palazzo. Visiting the chapel is not an easy ordeal, however. First, tickets must be secured on-line at least 24 hours in advance. Visitors who have not booked should check entry availability at the Museum ticket office. Those with tickets should reach the chapel at least five minutes before their allotted time or they will not be admitted. Only twenty-five people are admitted per visit and must endure spending 15 minutes prior to entrance in a climate-controlled, air-locked vault, used to stabilize the temperature between the outside world and the inside of the chapel as preservation is of the utmost importance. Visits within the chapel (after air-lock) are only allowed for 15 minutes and no video cameras, cameras, food or drinks are allowed. Mobile phones must be switched off. While I was not able to secure tickets for my visit, I did see the Chapel while traveling thru the city.

After your visit to Scrovegni chapel, head next door to the Church of the Eremitani, a 13th century Augustinian church, containing the tombs of Jacopo and Urbertinello da Carrara, lords of Padova. The church, located next to Nazi headquarters, suffered heavy damage during bombings in World War II and a great portion of the Mantagna’s frescoes within the Ovetari Chapel were destroyed. Other frescoes by artists Guariento and Ansuino da Forli are preserved in the church. The municipal art gallery is housed in the old monastery of the church.

Walking south along the tram lines will lead you to the Tomb of Antenor, located at via del Santo and via San Francesco. Antenor, a Trojan prince, hero and founder of Padova, was believed to have been buried in the city. A marble arch containing a coffin was found and was proclaimed to be the precious remains of Antenor. In 1985, however, examination of the bone fragments proved that the remains were could not be dated back to the time period as first believed. The stone sarcophagus still stands in Piazza Antenor and bears an epitaph written in Latin by the Padovan judge Lovato dei Lovati…This sepulchre excavated from marble contains the body of the noble Antenor who left his country, guided the Eneti and Trojans, banished the Euganeans and founded Padua. The tomb adjacent to Antenor’s belongs to Lovati, although it is known as the tomb of Antenor’s dog, as it bears the bas-relief representing a dog on his tomb. Opposite the Piazza Antenor, take note of the 15th century Palazzo Sala and the Gothic Palazzo Romanin Jacur which carries an inscription saying that Dante hid there to escape arrest.

Nearby in the Piazza dei Signori, is the Astrological Clock. The original clock, built by Jacopo de’Dondi was very advanced and complex for its time and was destroyed either in 1390 or 1399. A replica now presides over the square, however, studying the clock shows that the among the signs of the Zodiac, the sign of Libra is missing…the crab (Cancer) occupies a double space. Legend has it that the builder omitted the Libra symbol intentionally due to not being paid adequately, however, another story tells that the original clock’s crab was also missing as a protest by Jacopo for a town suffering injustice from the Carraresi family. Also notable with the Piazza dei Signori is the beautiful loggia, the Gran Guardia and close by, the Palazzo del Capitaniato, the residence of the Venetian governors.

Caffè Pedrocchi is also just around the corner (see my blog post “The Doorless Cafe”) and was built in 1831. Called the “doorless cafe” because of its openness, it also earned the name because it was originally open 24 hours a day. A very historical establishment, it is a great place to grab a bite to eat and a drink.

Another beautiful architectural specimen, the Palazzo della Ragione, located nearby between two grand squares (the Piazza Delle Erbe and the Piazza Delle Frutta) is known to have the largest roof unsupported by columns in Europe. The Palazzo, dating back to 1172, stands upon open arches and the upper story is surrounded by an open loggia. Beneath the great hall, there is a centuries-old market on most days. The Palazzo can be visited daily except for Mondays.

Walking south through the city, you will find yourself at the Prato della Valle, the largest square in Europe (see my blog post “Yes, It’s Big”). Created by Andrea Memmo in the 18th century, it is lined by 78 statues portraying famous citizens along a small canal with a beautiful green island center, I’Isola Memmia. Many beautiful Italian buildings surround Il Prati, as it is locally known, such as the Palazzo Angeli and La Loggia Amulea

While visiting Il Prati, a bit of time should be taken the visit the Abbey of Santa Giustina and the adjacent Basilica. One of the most important monasteries in the area in the 15th century it was eventually suppressed by Napoleon. Reopened in 1919, the tombs of several saints are housed in the interior, including St. Justine, St. Prosdocimus, St. Maximus, St. Urius, St. Felicita, St. Julianus, as well as relics of the Apostle St. Matthias and the Evangelist St. Luke.

There are many other things to visit in Padua, depending on one’s tastes and the amount of time you have to devote to the city…the fortified walls and gates of the city, Santa Sofia, Padova’s most ancient church, the church of San Gaetano, the Padua Synagogue, the buildings of Palazzo del Bo, the City Hall (Palazzo Moroni), the Castello, which the main tower was transformed into an astronomical observatory and the many bridges, Ponte San Lorenzo, a Roman bridge largely underground, along with the ancient Ponte Molino, Ponte Altinate, Ponte Corvo and Ponte S. Matteo.

Whatever you decide to see and do in Padova and however you decide to pronounce it, you will appreciate all that it has to offer and its uncrowded easygoing spirit.

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Padova

http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/veneto/padua.html
Getting There: http://www.trenitalia.com/ From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00. From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
Getting There: Padua City Tram http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf One ride, (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70, Carnet of 9 tickets for €10, Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00
Basilica di Sant’Antonio da Padova, http://www.santantonio.org/en/basilica Piazza del Santo, 11, 35123 Padova, Italy Free admission. Weekdays, January 1-March 26, 0620-1845, March 27-October 29, 0620-1945, October 30-December 31, 0620-1845. Saturdays and Sundays, 0620-1945
Scrovegni Chapel, http://www.cappelladegliscrovegni.it/index.php/en/ Address: Piazza Eremitani, 8, 35121 Padova PD, Italy Admission: Adults€13. Hours: 0900-1900, daily.
Church of Eremetani, http://www.guidepadova.it/en-GB/Monumenti/Vedi/the-eremitani’s-church Address: Piazza Eremitani, 9, 35129 Padova PD, Italy. Free admission. Weekdays, 0730-1230 and 1530-1900, Saturdays and Sundays, 0900-1230 and 1600-2000.
Tomb of Antenor, Address: Piazza Antenore 35121 Padova, Italy
Astrological Clock, http://padovacultura.padovanet.it/it/musei/astronomical-clock Piazza dei Signori. Free entry. Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Maximum 10 persons. Visits start from Piazza Capitaniato 19. Times: 10:00, 10:30, 11:00, 11:30
Caffe Pedrocchi, http://www.caffepedrocchi.it/ Address: Via VIII Febbraio, 15, 35122 Padova, Hours: Bar, Sun-Wed, 0900-2100, Thurs-Sat, 0900-midnight, Historical salon upstairs, daily, 0930-1230 and 1530-2000
Palazzo della Ragione, http://padovacultura.padovanet.it/it Address: Piazza delle Erbe, 35100 Padova PD, Italy. Hours: 01Feb-31Oct, 0900-1900, 01Nov-31Jan, 0900-1800, Admission: Adults, €6.00
Prato della Valle, http://www.padovanet.it/informazione/prato-della-valle#.VgQdS60VhBc Address: Via Prato della Valle, 35121 Padova PD, Italy
Abbey and Basilica of Santa Giustina, http://www.abbaziasantagiustina.org/ Address: Via Giuseppe Ferrari, 2A, 35123 Padova PD, Italy Hours: Summer weekdays, 0700-1200 and 1500-2000, Weekends, 0630-1300 and 1500-2000. Winter weekdays, 0800-1200 and 1500-2000, Weekends, 0800-1300 and 1500-2000. Free admission.

The Doorless Cafe

How do you combine touring and cocktail hour while in Padova? Visit the Caffè Pedrocchi, founded in the 18th century, which has seen numerous famous literary, artistic and political figures step through its doors. It was once known as the largest cafe in Europe and often argued as the most beautiful coffeehouse in the world.

When you look at Caffè Pedrocchi from the outside, it appears to be more of a palace than coffeehouse with its tall columns and lions gracing the entrance. The interior consists of three rooms on the main floor, influenced by the colors of the Italian flag…the Red, White and Green rooms. Nine rooms and a museum featuring 19th century Paduan history compromise the upstairs. During warmer weather, the doors are opened wide and service is extended to the outside veranda and onto the pedestrian piazza. Called the “doorless cafe” because of its openness, it also earned the name because it was originally open 24 hours a day.

Caffè Pedrocchi is widely known for its prize-winning signature drink, made of piping hot espresso topped with a cold mint creme topping, however, other drinks and a light menu is served.

Sitting in the lovely Red Room, next to the piano, we ordered Aperol Spritzes and beer, a plate of meats and cheeses and Arancini di Ragu, stuffed rice croquettes, recommended by my Sicilian friend, Antonio. I can not describe how delicious these were! Other snacks, such as chips, olives and nuts were also brought to accompany our drinks. Table service is offered, however, drinks can also be ordered from the bar.

While out seeing the nearby piazzas, make a detour to admire the beauty of this building and stop in for a quick drink. Imagining those who have crossed the threshold of this historic place only adds to the allure of this cafe. Though a little pricier than many of the nearby establishments, a visit to a Caffè Pedrocchi is a must while in Padua!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Caffè Pedrocchi

http://www.caffepedrocchi.it/
Via VIII Febbraio, 15, 35122 Padova
Hours: Bar, Sun-Wed, 0900-2100, Thurs-Sat, 0900-midnight, Historical salon upstairs, daily, 0930-1230 and 1530-2000
Getting There: http://www.trenitalia.com/ From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00. From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
Getting There: Padova Tram-stop Ponti Romani http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf One ride, (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70, Carnet of 9 tickets for €10.00, Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00
Getting There: Bus #s 3, 8, 12, 16, 18, or 22

A House of Saints

When visiting Padua, most people make their way down to Prato della Valle, the largest square in Italy. Presiding at the south end of the square is a church that cannot be overlooked, especially for the extremely devout…Basilica di Santa Giustina.

Giustina (Justine), the patron saint of Padua, was a virgin of royal birth and a disciple of St. Peter the Apostle. At the age of 16, Justine suffered martyrdom during the Christian persecutions of Diocletian. Tortured and beheaded, her body was taken to Rome where it was interred on the estate of a noble lady named Rufina and later entombed in Constantine’s basilica.

Justine’s remains were eventually taken back to the site of her martyrdom. The Abbey of St. Giustina was founded in the 5th century on her tomb and during the 15th century became one of the most important monasteries in the area until its suppression by Napoleon in 1810. During the 6th century the church was dedicated to St. Justine.

Everyone should realize by now that I love visiting churches in Europe for their historical, architectural and artistic importance. This one did not impress me…at first. Not as elaborate as the Basilica di Sant’Antonio, both on the inside and out, this basilica, built in the 6th century, however, is the final resting place for not one, but many saints. As I made a decision to enter, I was not aware of this.

The exterior of St. Giustina is unfortunately not finished, as with most churches in Padua and when entering, the basilica seems quite barren besides the 26 massive columns that fill the space. Much of the artwork and sculpture were removed by Napoleon and brought to France. The side chapels, however, are interesting and richly decorated. The altarpiece of the grand high main altar is impressive, painted by Paolo Veronese, and represents the “Martyrdom of St. Giustina”.

Walking down the right aisle of the church, you will find the Chapel of St. Matthew. Through this chapel you will reach the Corridor of the Martyrs…this is a part of the church that cannot be missed.

A small frescoed chamber houses the bones of early Christian martyrs and further down the corridor, you will see the iron cage with the remains of the wooden coffin of St. Luke. At the end of the corridor, you will reach the grave chapel of St. Prosdocimus, which is also the oldest church in Padua. In the small vestibule to the chapel, you will find the tomb of St. Giustina on the left-hand side. St. Luke, the author of the Acts of the Apostles and the Gospel of Luke, is interred at the end of the left transept of the church. Other saints housed in the basilica are St. Maximus, St. Urius, St. Felicita, St. Julian and relics of St. Matthias.

The old choir, which is adjacent to the major corridor, can be visited only with special permission.

It is possible to also visit the monastery that belongs to the Benedictine order. Tour guides will accompany you in the most ancient part of the first basilica, through the cloisters and the rooms that house the fragments of the second basilica.

At the bottom of the South transept in the Martyrs’ Hall, religious objects and books can be purchased in the gift shop. One of the most interesting things that can also be purchased here is an ancient cure once prepared in the apothecary of the Monastery…the Santa Giustina oil, used for muscle and joint pain and massage.

A most holy place, Santa Giustina should not be omitted from your plans while in Padua. While I had not researched this church, I only ventured in while I was walking through Prato della Valle. Realizing what significant historical importance it has within Catholicism, I am most grateful that I did.

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Abby of Santa Giustina

http://www.abbaziasantagiustina.org/
Prato della Valle, 35100, Padua, Italy
Admission: free
Hours: Spring/Summer, weekdays, 0730-1200 and 1500-2000, weekends, 0630-1300 and 1500-2000. Autumn/Winter, weekdays, 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, weekends, 0800-1300 and 1500-2000.
Getting There: Tram-stop Prato della Valle http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf One ride, (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70, Carnet of 9 tickets for €10.00, Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00

The Finder of Lost Things and People

Venice is one of my favorite cities to visit. A stunning and fascinating place, I adore wandering the narrow alleyways, crossing the canals and viewing the beautiful Venetian architecture.

On this trip, I decided that as much as I love Venice, it was time to venture farther out and see what other nearby cities had to offer. A couple of years ago, I had done a little research on the city of Padova (Padua), which claims to be the oldest city in Italy. My knowledge of Padova was limited to knowing that St. Anthony, the patron saint of finding things or lost people, died in this historical city. I was also aware that Padova is the setting for most of the action in Shakespeare’s The Taming of the Shrew. After finding that Padova was only 14 minutes by train, I decided that the pilgrimage city was going to be my destination.

Departing from the Mestre train station, we arrived in Padova rather quickly since there are no stops in between the two cities. After disembarking, a quick stop at the Tourist Information Office, which is located in the train station, secured some maps and additional information.

Since the Basilica di Sant’Antonio is only open until 7:00 pm, we decided to head there first and then make our way through the city. In the interest of time, we opted to purchase tickets to ride the tram which would take us right to our destination. Outside of the station, to the right, there is a ticket machine and a ticket counter to purchase tram tickets. Our tickets were soon in hand and we headed across the street to the Stazione FS tram stop.
The tram ride was rather quick and we soon arrived at the Santo tram stop. A short walk to the corner, a left turn and we were gazing upon the Basilica at the end of the street!

Millions of pilgrims travel to Padova every year, to visit the Basilica di Sant’Antonio (St. Anthony). It is here that St. Anthony’s grave is preserved. St. Anthony, originally from Lisbon, was proclaimed a Doctor of the Church in 1946 and was the second-most quickly canonized saint in the Catholic Church, after Peter of Verona.

The Basilica, known locally as “Il Santo”, offers a commanding view from its square with its Romanesque, Byzantine and Gothic influences. Many tourists linger in the area as it is such a holy site and it is recognized as one of the eight international shrines by the Holy See. Although it is visited by millions of people each year, it is not the main cathedral of the city, that being the Cathedral-Basilica of St. Mary of Padua.

Construction of the Basilica began shortly after the death of St. Anthony, in approximately 1232. Its completion in 1310 was followed by several modifications to the structure at the end of the 14th and mid 15th centuries. St. Anthony, although currently buried in the Basilica, had previously been interred, according to his will, in the small church of Santa Maria Mater Domini. This small church was incorporated into the present basilica as the Cappella della Madonna Mora (Chapel of the Dark Madonna).

Although I had been warned that we should expect a line to enter the Basilica, we encountered none. The Basilica is extensive in size, and although there a large number of visitors, while traversing the interior, it did not feel extremely crowded. Signs are posted at the entrance and within the Basilica prohibiting photography and inappropriate dress.

The interior of the church is quite beautiful. Many funerary monuments of noteworthy artistic value are housed in the Basilica. Attention should be given to each of the side chapels and their contents. The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament (Cappella del Santissimo Sacramento) on the right aisle, houses the tomb of the famous condottiero Gattamelata and his son Giannantonio along with a bronze tabernacle designed by Girolamo Campagna.

Several important images of the Madonna can also be found throughout the Basilica. One of extreme importance is the Madonna Mora, a statue of the Madonna with the Christ Child by the French sculptor Rainaldino di Puy-l’Evéque, dating from 1396. The name Madonna Mora refers to her olive skin and black hair. Another noteworthy piece located in the high altar area is a bronze Madonna with Child along with six statues of Saints by Donatello.

At the rear of the Basilica, is the ornate baroque Treasury Chapel with its resplendent ceiling depicting hundreds of angels amidst the clouds. In this chapel are housed the relics of St. Anthony, including his tongue, which was discovered to be intact in 1263 when his coffin was opened so that his remains could be placed under the high altar in the Basilica. The body of St. Anthony, can be visited in the Chapel of Madonna Mora in the middle of the nave. Expect to stand in line to visit both chapels.

Another part of the Basilica worth visiting is the peaceful cloisters in the Basilica. The Cloister of the Novices, constructed in the 15th century, offers a superb view of the Basilica, the Magnolia Cloister, offers a splendid magnolia tree planted in the middle of the nineteenth century cloister, the General’s Cloister, in which the rooms of the Ministers General overlook and the Cloister of Blessed Luca Belludi, whose present form dates back to the late fifteenth century. Adjacent to the Magnolia Cloister is a gift shop which offers rosaries, medals and many other religious items. Near the entrance to the cloisters, within the church, sits a priest who will bless your items.

The Basilica is one in Italy that cannot be missed for its religious, historical and architectural significance. Easily reached by public transport, it should be made a priority when visiting the Venice area.

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The Basilica of St. Anthony

http://www.santantonio.org/en/basilica
Piazza del Santo, 35123 Padova PD
Hours: Weekdays, January 1-March 26, 0620-1845, March 27-October 29, 0620-1945, October 30-December 31, 0620-1845. Saturdays and Sundays, 0620-1945
Admission: no charge
Getting There: http://www.trenitalia.com/ From Venice S. Lucia, Regional trains, €4,10, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00. From Venice Mestre, Regional trains, €3,35, Other trains, €15,50-€17,00.
Getting There: Padova Tram-stop Santo http://www.igi.cnr.it/ish_rfp_ws2013/sites/default/files/attachments/map_bus_tram.pdf One ride, (inside the municipality of Padua) 75 minutes €1.20. Daily ticket, 4 rides valid for 75 minutes each, €4.70, Carnet of 9 tickets for €10, Carnet of 18 tickets, €20.00

The Gift of a Garden

Do you want to know a secret?

On the southeast bank of Lake Zurich lies a wonderful little secret…The Chinese Garden. One would never expect to find a Chinese garden in Zurich, but I promise you, it’s there…everyone loves a secret garden, right?

In 1994, as a gift from Zurich’s sister city, Kunming, the China Garden was opened. The garden was given to Zurich in gratitude for the help Zurich provided in restoring Kunming’s water facilities. The garden, considered one of the highest ranking gardens outside of China, is not what you would expect to find in the Swiss city, however, its unmistakable Chinese roof and red wall stand out along the promenade.

Three Friends of Winter, the garden’s major theme of Chinese culture, depict the pine, the bamboo, and the winter cherry together, braving the cold season.

Although very small, the garden is bright and tranquil with many places to sit and meditate. The structural design of the garden is based on three key principles, the arrangement of structural objects (building, artificial lake and rock formation), the layout (layout and walls) and the movement in the garden (paths and passages).

Scaffolding is present while some renovation is being done on the buildings, however, it is still pleasant to see and experience all that the garden has to offer. Informed by the attendant that no more than 10 minutes would be required to see everything, we stayed for almost 45 minutes, photographing and walking around the premises and through the buildings. In a city where everything is quite expensive, I would consider the entrance fee a fair price to experience something so unique!

Located between Bellerivestrasse and Blatter meadow at Zurich Horn on the right bank of Lake Zurich, it is located adjacent to a park and a children’s playground. Toilet facilities are available close by.

Check out more pictures on Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Chinese Garden

https://www.stadt-zuerich.ch/ted/de/index/gsz/natur-_und_erlebnisraeume/chinagarten.html
Address: Chinagarten, Bellerivestrasse 138, 8008 Zürich
Hours: March 19 thru October 31, daily, 1100-1900
Admission: Adults, 4 CHF, Children (under 14), 1 CHF, Groups (from 10 people) 3 CHF (1 CHF=1 US)
Getting There: Tram Stop, Fröhlichstrasse

The Münsters

After returning from our Üetliberg expedition, my son and I ventured out from the Hauptbahnhof into the city. Zurich, relatively quiet on a Sunday, was perfect for a walk along the River Limmat toward two of Zurich’s well-known churches.

First on our list was Zurich’s Fraumünster Church, (The Church of Our Lady) founded in 853 by Louis the German. Built on the remains of a former abbey for aristocratic women, it now belongs to the Evangelical Reformed Church of the Canton of Zurich and is one of the four main churches of Zurich, the other’s being Grossmünster, Prediger and St. Peter’s church.

Easily visible for its slender green peak and clock tower, the Fraumünster stands out along the River Limmat. While the interior is not as ornate as other churches throughout Europe, visitors flock to this world famous church to see the five large stained glass windows designed by Russian-born artist Marc Chagall.

Three of Chagall’s stained glass windows

Installed in 1970, in the choir of the abbey, each window has a dominant color and depicts a Christian story. The five works are, Prophets, showing Elijah’s ascent to heaven, Jacob, depicting his combat and dreams of heaven, Christ, displaying various scenes of Christ’s life, Zion, illustrating an angel trumpeting the end of the world and Law, with Moses looking down upon the suffering of his people. Also worth noting is the impressive stained glass in the North transept created in 1940 by Augusto Giacometti, nephew of the famous Swiss abstract artist, Alberto Giacometti. A sign near the entrance advises visitors that no pictures are allowed inside the church, however, a few were taken discreetly.

Just across the river, the 12th century Romanesque ex-cathedral, Grossmünster was next on our list. Located in the Grossmünsterplatz, its twin towers soar above the other buildings in this area of Zurich. The Grossmünster, much like the Fraumünster, is not very ornate and quite bare. No statues and paintings decorate its interior, only a few faded frescoes. The pulpit was added in 1851 and the organ in 1960.

AG Fraumunster — Stained glass by Augusto Giacometti

Not to be outdone by the Fraumünster, stained glass windows were commissioned by Augusto Giacometti and Sigmar Polke. Giacometti’s window depicting the Three Magi bearing gifts to the Virgin and child has reigned in the choir since 1933. In 2009, German artist, Sigmar Polke, crafted seven windows in the nave from thinly sliced agate. The brilliantly colored result was then expanded with five glass windows featuring Old Testament figures. The scapegoat, Isaac, the Son of Man, Elijah and David all move in the direction of the birth of Christ and thus toward the window created by Giacometti.

Fraumunster9 — Stained glass by Sigmar Polke

A trip down to the Grossmünster’s crypt is also recommended as it is the largest in Switzerland. Here, you can now see the 15th century stone statue of Charlemagne, whom legend tells us is the founder of the church. The statue once stood atop the south tower and is now replaced by a replica. As with the Fraumünster, photos were not allowed in the Grossmünster.

As a frequent church “tourist”, I must say that these two churches were nice to occupy a couple of hours on a Sunday, when there is not much else to do in downtown Zurich. Not bowled over by extraordinary beauty as I have experienced in other cities, they are mostly to be appreciated for their architectural prevalence. If you respect and value art, however, time should be taken to behold the artistry of the world famous stained glass in both churches.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Fraumünster

http://www.fraumuenster.ch/en/
Fraumünster, Münsterhof 28001 Zürich
Hours: March 1 thru October 31, 1000-1800, November 1 thru February 29, 1000-1700. On Sundays and holidays, the church will open after services at 12 noon.
Admission: No charge
Getting there: 5 minute walk from Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)

Grossmünster

http://www.grossmuenster.ch/de/
Address: Grossmünsterplatz, 8001 Zürich
Hours: Daily except Sundays, March thru October, 1000-1800, November thru February, 1000-1700. Sundays, open after services.
Admission: No charge
Getting there: 5 minute walk from Hauptbahnhof (Main Station)