Rome – Page 4 – Snapping The Globe

The Old Bear

After a lackluster dinner, we were in search of gelato for dessert. While ambling along a cobble stoned alley towards our hotel, we spied the most quaint little restaurant I think I have ever seen. With vines covering the outside and a rustic, old-world feel, it was warm and beckoning. There were many tables on the street and within the large floor to ceiling open-shuttered doorways as well as many inside. Dark wood beams and floors with old wood tables further enhanced the cozy feeling inside. We all grabbed business cards and made a promise to come back at another time. Fortunately, my time was going to be a couple days later…I had another jaunt to Rome after this one and was determined to give this little gem a try.

On my next trip, after a fun bike ride along the Tiber, my friend and I began to contemplate our dinner plans. Digging the card out of my bag and presenting it to her, I inquired if she had ever been there. She had not and was game for anything, so off we went.

When we arrived, we were in luck…there were a few tables open, one being one of the ones that sat in the open doorways giving the feeling that you were on a balcony. As we sat higher than the street level tables, it gave us a remarkable view of the pedestrian traffic and the old buildings nearby.

The menu is not extensive but has enough choices to keep everyone happy. There are many pasta dishes as well as other fare and a complimentary bread basket with olive oil and delicious whipped butter. On this visit, we decided to split a tomato and mozzarella salad followed by gnocchi for me and truffle lasagna for my friend. Both of us were very pleased with our selections and left full and happy and with only a small dent in our wallets. With its proximity to Piazza Navona, we would have expected higher prices, but entrees averaged 10-12 euro. Additionally, the staff spoke fluent English which helped when ordering and trying to split and pay the bill.

After our visit, I told many people about the restaurant and found that many of my coworkers already knew about it, had been there and shared my enthusiasm for the place. Crew members can be quite particular about their food, so having someone else validate our experience was a plus!

Four months had gone by since that first visit and I again had a trip to Rome on my schedule. The first thought that popped into my head when I knew about this trip was that I was going to be able to dine at The Old Bear again. I couldn’t wait to try something different from the menu!

After some touring in the city, we had planned to meet a couple of our other crew members for dinner. They were given the address and had agreed to meet us there at 7:00 pm. There were five of us and it wasn’t very busy, so we were given the entire room, on the left, to ourselves.

Because it was winter, there were no tables on the street or in the doorways looking out to the street. Everything was shuttered up, but inside, the low level lighting and cozy wood made us feel warm and welcomed.

Our dining experience started with wine, beer and of course, bread, olive oil and whipped butter. A Mediterranean salad and grilled artichoke were next and plenty enough to split among the five of us. After hearing from a friend that the pumpkin lasagna was “to die for”, this was my dinner order.

Everyone was extremely happy with their dinner choices…gnocchi, truffle lasagna, fettuccine…but I have to say that not only was I happy…I was elated! This was one of the best meals I have ever had in all of Italy! It was hot, perfectly prepared and so delicious! Eccellente!

At the close of our meal, everyone was accommodated by the staff in splitting the bill in an easy, friendly manner and after hearing that we had an extra day in Rome, they were eager to give us many suggestions for sightseeing in the area. With the many tourist traps that exist in this city, it is so refreshing to find such an amazing establishment near a touristy area that offers phenomenal service and outstanding Italian food.

The Old Bear

Via dei Gigli d’Oro, 2-3-4, 00186 Roma
Hours: 1700-0100 Monday-Saturday
Tel. 06 682.100.09
http://www.oldbear.it/siamo_oldbear.html

Where Are You Going?

While visiting the catacombs on the Appian Way, it is worth taking a few minutes to step into the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante (Church of St. Mary in Palmis), otherwise known as Chiesa del Domine Quo Vadis.

Having heard of this church, I wasn’t aware of it’s location near the catacombs. After our visit to San Callixtus, our tour guide recommended the short walk to visit this holy site. Located about 800 meters from the St. Sebasian Gate, Quo Vadis is a small baroque-style church built on the site, according to the bible, in which St. Peter met Jesus while St. Peter was fleeing persecution in Rome. Peter asked Jesus, “Lord, where are you going?” (Latin: Domine, quo vadis?) Jesus answered, “I am going to Rome to be crucified again”.

A marble slab is on display at the center of the church. A copy of the original, which is kept in the nearby Basilica of San Sebastiano fuori le mura, the slab contains the imprint of what is believed to be Jesus’ feet. Considered to be a miraculous sign, the footprints are what gave the church its name…palmis refers to the soles of the feet.

Prior to 1845, there was an inscription above the front door on the church’s façade which said, “Stop your walking traveler and enter this sacred temple in which you will find the footprint of our Lord Jesus Christ when He met with St. Peter who escaped from the prison. An alms for the wax and the oil is recommended in order to free some spirits from Purgatory”. Pope Gregory XVI found the advertising tone of the inscription very inappropriate and ordered its removal.

In this small church, you will also see a bust of Henryk Sienkiewicz, the Polish author of the famous historical fiction novel Quo Vadis: A Narrative of the Time of Nero which was published in 1886. It is said that Sienkiewicz was inspired to write his novel while sitting in this church.

In 1983, Pope John Paul II defined the chapel as “a place that has a special importance in the history of Rome and in the history of the church”.

After your visit to Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante it is an easy return to Rome. Step outside of the church; the bus stop (#118 and #218) to Rome is located immediately to the right.

For more pictures check out my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @SnappingtheGlobe.

Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Piante

casmadrid@tiscalinet.it
Via Appia Antica, 51, Rome Italy
Hours: 0800-1800, daily. Summer closing time 1900.
Masses: Winter weekdays, 1800, summer weekdays 1900, holidays, 0900, 1100, 1800 (winter), 1900 (summer)

Transportation

Bus #118 from Circus Maximus or Piazza Venezia
Bus #218 from Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano

Along the Appian Way

There are sixty known subterranean burial chambers in Rome, built along Roman roads, like the Via Appia, the Via Ostiense, the Via Labicana, the Via Tiburtina and the Via Nomentana. San Callixtus, Domitilla’s Catacombs, Saint Sebastian and Priscilla, among the sixty, each present a wealth of history.

After much research on the subject, a decision was made to visit San Callixtus catacombs as it was the oldest, the largest and held the tombs of almost all of the popes of the third century. Further research provided information on travel to San Callixtus. Since the catacomb is closed from 12:00-2:00 pm, a decision was made to try and reach the destination for the re-opening after lunch.

Our journey to San Callixtus was certainly a lesson in discerning correct data from the internet. There is a lot of information available on the internet, but careful attention should be paid as to when this information was posted. Bus lines, hours and admissions change constantly. A post that suggests certain routes may be outdated, as was the case for this adventure.

Beginning our journey to San Callixtus on the metro, we arrived at the Piramides stop with the intention of taking the #118 bus. Emerging from the station, we began to search for the bus stop. After walking the entire block around the station and not locating it, we finally asked a local gentleman for directions. Unfortunately, what we discovered was that bus #118 no longer runs from this station and his suggestion was that we backtrack on the metro to Circus Maximus in order to catch the same bus there.

Walking up to the street from the Circus Maximus metro station, I quickly spied the bus stop across the street. When the first bus arrived, we found that tickets could not be purchased from the driver and we had to return to the metro station to purchase a ticket (which is the same ticket as a metro ticket). If you have just arrived on the metro, you should be able to use your same ticket for the bus (tickets are good for 100 minutes), however, make sure that you have purchased a ticket for your return, as we did not see any places to purchase tickets near the catacombs.

Finally boarding the bus, we were soon headed toward the Appian Way…or so we thought. We soon realized that the bus comes from the Appian Way, passes Circus Maximus, heads down to Piazza Venezia and then returns to Circus Maximus on its way back to the Appian Way. So, if you decide to catch the #118 bus from Circus Maximus, take a left while facing the actual Circus Maximus when you walk out of the metro station and catch the bus on the same side of Via del Circo Massimo. This will eliminate an extra 10 minutes of a very bumpy bus ride.

The bus did not have signage or announcements stating the upcoming stops. We had never been in this part of Rome and were concerned about knowing where to disembark, so after asking the bus driver to alert us, he soon made us aware that we were arriving at San Callixtus.

Entering through the front gate, we proceeded down the pathway to the ticket office. After purchasing our tickets, we walked over to the entryway but found that guests are not allowed to enter the catacombs unescorted. The guided tours depart on the half hour and we had just missed one. Occupying ourselves, we walked around the immediate area and visited the gift shop. When we were nearing the half hour mark, we took our places near the signs which designated the different language groups. Soon, the tour guides began to arrive and began summoning us, by group, to the entrance. Our tour guide, a Filipino brother, ushered us off the main pathway where he could deliver the history of the catacombs. This is also where he shared the most devastating information that I could have received…no pictures! This news was very disappointing as I was looking forward to documenting our look into this historical place.

Finally, it was our turn to descend the steep stairs into the catacombs.

The catacombs of St. Callixtus are among the most important in Rome. Originating around the middle of the second century, there are more than fifty martyrs, 16 popes and many Christians buried within the complex. St. Callixtus became the official cemetery of the Church of Rome at the beginning of the third century after the deacon Callixtus was appointed by Pope Zephyrinus as the administrator of the cemetery.

Rome’s Christians did not have their own cemeteries in the first century. Unless they owned land, they resorted to common cemeteries, where pagans were also buried. During the second century, the first large-scale catacombs were carved through soft volcanic rock outside the city’s limits because burial within Rome’s walls was forbidden by law. Underground burial quickly became popular due to the high price of land and for the sense of community it gave. In addition to burials, the catacombs also served as hiding places for Christians during times of persecution.

During our tour though the many labyrinths beneath the earth, there were countless open chambers in which bodies had been placed and bound in linen. Each chamber was then sealed with a slab bearing the name, age and the day of death. No bones still exist in St. Callixtus to the degree as one would see in the catacombs of Paris.

Most notable in San Callixtus is the area known as “the little Vatican” or the area of the Popes”. Here, the nine popes and eight dignitaries of Rome’s third century church were laid to rest. Another area of interest is the Crypt of St. Cecelia, the patron saint of music, who was martyred in the third century and entombed where a statue now lies in remembrance. In 821, her relics were transferred from San Callixtus to Trastevere to the basilica dedicated to her.

Tours of San Callixtus usually last approximately 30-40 minutes; however, our tour guide was very thorough and provided a great deal of information. Our tour eventually lasted almost an hour. Walking away from San Callixtus, we felt very satisfied with the type of tour we were given and with the number of people in our English speaking tour group. Because San Callixtus has the largest parking lot, it tends to attract immense numbers of tour groups and tour buses. Expect long waits during summer months and busy times of the year. And make sure to visit the gift shop to purchase postcards of the interior! Remember, no pictures!!!

After, visiting San Callixtus, you can return to the bus stop in front of the entrance to catch the #118 and #218 buses or wander down the road at the rear of the property. Following this road takes you to the Church of St. Mary in Palmis and the #118 or #218 bus stop for your return back to the center of Rome.

For more pictures check out my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @SnappingtheGlobe.

Transportation

Bus #118 from Circus Maximus or Piazza Venezia
Bus #218 from Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano

San Callixtus

Open year round, except on Christmas, New Year’s Day and Easter Sunday
Hours: 0900-1200, 1400-1700, last tour departing at 1700
Admission: Adults, € 8, Children € 5

A Holy Ascent

A couple of years ago, I mapped out a number of churches in Rome that I was interested in visiting. Starting with Archbasilica of St. John Lateran, I had planned to work my way through the area and visit Basilica San Clemente al Laterano, Basilica de Santa Maria Maggiore and Santa Maria della Vittoria plus any other smaller ones that I ran across on my journey.

After leaving the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran, I noticed a large number of people exiting the building across the street. The exterior of the building had initially caught my attention, now I was intrigued. Where were they coming from?

Always ready to find something new and interesting, I made my way across the street, climbing the steps and stealthily entering the building, not sure what I would encounter.

An information desk was on the right, as I entered, and a large number of people were standing in the vestibule. Unsure of the kind of establishment I had found myself in, I noticed the people moving toward a stairway on the right side of the building. As I glanced upward, I noticed that there were people on the stairway not moving…not only were they not moving, they were kneeling. Every so often, as I watched, a few of the kneeling visitors moved up a stair, everyone behind adjusting their positions.

Confused as I was, I was also captivated, wondering what would motivate someone to climb stairs on their knees. Where was this painful ascent taking them?

Finally, I located a plaque on the wall detailing the history of the stairs.

Scala Sancta, or The Holy Stairs, is a set of 28 white marble steps located in a building that incorporates part of the old Lateran Palace. The stairs lead to the Sancta Sanctorum, the personal chapel of the early popes.

The history of Catholicism tells us that the stairs, brought to Rome in the fourth century by St. Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, were the steps leading up to the Jerusalem palace of Pontius Pilate, on which Jesus Christ stepped on his way to trial during the events known as the Passion.

The steps are now encased in protective wood and may only be ascended on the knees, a prayer to be said on each step. On November 13, 1893, Pope Leo XII granted that the faithful who ascended the steps of the Scala Sancta on their knees, with a contrite heart, praying and meditating on Our Lord’s Passion, may gain an indulgence of three hundred days for each step. This indulgence is applicable towards the souls in Purgatory.

Having such a big itinerary for the day, I reluctantly decided to wait until another to make the climb, but my curiosity was now piqued.

After that visit, I spoke with a friend who had visited the Scala Sancta on a trip with her son who is in Seminary College studying to be a Catholic priest. She related the story of what she experienced while climbing the stairs.

“We climbed these steps, on our knees, while praying. There is a section where you can touch and feel the actual marble. Not every step, but on some steps, as I prayed, I felt compelled to slide my hand inside the opening to feel the actual marble Jesus walked on. Each time I did it, I was overwhelmed and was literally taken back to that moment. I saw Jesus walking those steps and the pain I felt was unimaginable. I cried uncontrollable each time I had my hand on that marble. At one point, I moved to the next step and when I put my right knee down, I felt the most excruciating pain on my right calf. I really thought something had pierced my leg. I lifted it up to feel and nothing was there but the pain was still there, unbearable. As I knelt there, the only thing I could think was that was the pain Jesus felt as the nails went through his hands and feet. When I moved to the next step, the pain was gone completely. As I touched the marble again a few steps later, I had the same feeling, as if I was there, watching Jesus being condemned to death. I watched it through a mother’s eyes. I watched it through Mary’s eyes. When we were done, I was so completely mentally and physically drained but SO moved that I was allowed to experience this. It will stay with me forever!”-Lisa Killeen, Lafayette, La

A couple of weeks ago, while making our way to the catacombs, we found ourselves with a bit of extra time on our hands after learning that they would be closed for lunch during the early part of the afternoon. Discovering that my companion had never heard of the Scala Sancta, I decided that we should make a detour.

Exiting the metro station of San Giovanni and walking through the original fortified gateway along the present day Porta San Giovanni, we were mesmerized by the well preserved Roman Aurelian Wall.

Gazing at the Archbasilica of St. John Lateran, we strolled along the street between the church and the building housing the Scala Sancta.

Entering, we walked up to the foot of the stairs and watched in awe, the masses of pilgrims climbing the stairs on their knees. Sadly, because of the large number of people and being that it was near the lunch closing time of 1:00 pm, my kneeling ascent would, again, have to wait. Instead, we opted to climb the adjacent stairway.

At the top of the Holy Stairs, we visited the chapel where some of the best early Christian relics were kept in the crypt under the altar at one time, including the heads of saints Peter, Paul and young Agnes. Most of these have now been distributed to other churches around the city, but displayed in a glass case on the left wall is a fragment of the table on which the Last Supper was supposedly served. The exquisite 13^th century frescoes in the lunettes and on the ceiling are the real attractions and worth further inspection.

Finally, our visit had come to an end. Having been able to see the Sancta Sanctorum was an accomplishment, for me, on this visit; however, I once again, left without making my Holy ascent. It was a huge disappointment but a task that will most definitely will be put on my agenda for a future trip to the Holy City.

Check out more pictures on Facebook and Instagram, Snapping the Globe.

Scala Santa

http://www.scala-santa.it
Address: Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 14
Metro: San Giovanni
Admission-Scala, free
Admission-Sancta Sanctorum, €3,50
Opening Hours: Scala, 0600-1300 & 1500-1900 summer, to 1830 winter
Opening Hours: Sancta Sanctorum, 0930-1240 & 1500-1700 Monday-Saturday

Bones and Burns

Over the past twenty-five years, I am not even sure how many times I have visited Rome. I never get tired of it. It seems that this ancient city continually presents something new to experience each time I set foot on its cobblestone streets.

Always arriving with a plan, I usually forego sleep in order to catch the many things to do here, especially in winter when museums and exhibits close earlier. This time, my Google search for offbeat things to do, had offered up the Museum of the Sanitary Arts and the Museum of the Holy Souls of Purgatory. The first museum was going to be closed on the day of my arrival, but the latter was open until 7 pm. After two of my co-workers expressed interest in doing some sightseeing with me, I decided to take them for a visit to one of my favorite destinations in addition to the Museum of the Holy Souls of Purgatory…The Capuchin Crypt.

The Capuchin Crypt is a small space comprising several tiny chapels located beneath the church of Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini (Our Lady of the Conception of the Capuchins), near the Piazza Barberini. It contains the skeletal remains of 3,700 bodies believed to be Capuchin friars buried by their order. The bones, later exhumed, were arranged in odd decorative designs and were displayed with the shriveled and decayed skeleton of their fellow friars. The bones have been fashioned into crosses, coats of arms, crowns, rosettes, stars and are set into the ceilings and walls. There are even chandeliers designed from the bones.

There are six total rooms of the crypt. The Crypt of the Resurrection features a picture of Jesus raising Lazarus from the dead, framed by various parts of the human skeleton. The Mass Chapel does not contain bones and is used to celebrate Mass. The chapel also contains the tomb of Papal Zouaves, who died defending the Papal States at the battle of Porta Pia. The Crypt of Three Skeletons contains three skeletons, the center enclosed in an oval which represents life coming to birth. The three remaining are the Crypt of the Skulls, Crypt of the Pelvises and the Crypt of the Leg Bones and Thigh Bones, the names describing the contents of each.

The Crypt was renovated recently along with the construction of the adjacent Capuchin museum which is now the entrance to the crypt. The museum contains many relics and artifacts that tell the Capuchin story. The exhibition also pays homage to the friars that have been canonized for sainthood.

Years ago, the hotel that we utilized for layovers was located very near to this oddity. Visiting many times, I also took my son there when we were in Rome for his 13th birthday. It is always an intriguing place to visit. Now, with the addition of the museum, it is even more so.

After, our visit to the Crypt, we ventured into the church above the crypt, Santa Maria della Concezione dei Cappuchini. The church was commissioned in 1626, by Pope Urban VIII whose brother was a Capuchin friar. The church was designed by Antonio Casoni and contains a small nave and several side chapels. The chapels are notable as one contains the body of St. Felix of Cantalice and another is the tomb of the Blessed Crispin of Viterbo.

While walking thru the church, we encountered the custodian, Marius Girard. A delightful and friendly man from Sri Lanka, he offered to take us into the rear of the church. Behind the sanctuary, we discovered artworks created by the friars and the side window which is used by the pope to observe mass.

Finally, we departed and headed through the Piazza Barberini down to Via Del Corso. Crossing the Tiber river, near Castel San Angelo, we found Chiesa del Sacro Cuore del Suffragio (Church of the Sacred Heart of the Suffrage). Appearing quite dark, we thought that the church may have been closed. Finding the door unlocked, however, we headed toward the front of the church, following the sound of a voice. Located within the sacristy, the entry is a door in the sixth pan of the nave on the right. There, we found a young Italian gentleman seated at a desk. Inquiring about the Purgatory Museum, he sat upright and placed a basket on his desk for donations. After we each placed 2 euro in the basket, he grabbed his keys and headed to a doorway behind us. Ushering us into the room, he handed us a laminated guide in English, describing the display. Once he disappeared, we glanced around the small room, and into the next, however, finding that the “museum” was this one small area.

Oh well, it wasn’t the Vatican, but we decided to see what this tiny museum was all about.

A miraculous occurrence happened in the Order of the Sacred Heart’s chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary on July 2, 1897. During a fire, a scorched image of a face was left behind on the wall. The face was believed to be a trapped soul. Victor Jouet, a collector and French missionary, was inspired to build the purgatorial museum due to this occurrence and began to search for testimonies about the souls of Purgatory.

According to Catholic belief, a soul is stranded in purgatory until it atones for its sins, but can hasten its ascent to heaven through the prayers of loved ones still on earth.

A glass case houses many relics, which contain scorched handprints and other burn marks. These imprints are believed to be the product of souls begging their earth-bound loved ones to pray harder. Among the items on display is the nightcap of a man who discovered his deceased wife’s hand prints on it asking him to pray for her. Another amazing item is a book belonging to a woman whose mother-in-law reportedly appeared to her and asked for two masses in her honor. After the wish was fulfilled, a hand print was found on the book as a message of thanksgiving.

A quick walk around the interior of the lovely church was in order after our museum visit. The museum, small, but thought provoking, was certainly worth a half hour of our time. One of those little known places in the Eternal City, which most visitors have never heard of, we can now say that we have been there.

If you are a frequent traveler to Rome, have already seen the famous sights and are looking for something more offbeat, take the time to visit both of these unique institutions. You won’t spend your time waiting in long lines and you will have something intriguing and just a bit wacky to tell your friends and family about after your return.

For more pictures, check out my Facebook page, Snapping the Globe and on Instagram, Snapping the Globe.

Capuchin Crypt and Museum

Via Veneto 27, Roma 00187
Hours: 9:00-19:00 (last admission 18:30), Closed December 25
Admission: 8,50€ Adults, 5,00€ Children under 18 and adults over 65
Audio guide: 6,00€ double, 4,00€ single, available in Italian and English
Tours available: 65,00€ Italian, 80,00€ English, Spanish and French
No pictures are allowed.

Museum of the Holy Souls in Purgatory

Lungotevere Prati, 12, Roma
Hours: 9:00-12:30 and 17:00-19:00
Admission: Free, donations accepted