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Located at the highest point on Ngorongoro Crater’s entire rim and offering unsurpassed views of the crater, lies the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge.
Greeted upon our arrival, once again, with refreshing cool towels and mouthwatering drinks, we received our keys and followed our porters to check out our new accommodations.
The entire resort is themed around traditional circular African houses with conical roofs and our rooms, grouped in sets of four, were no exception.
Walking into our temporary residence, we checked out the entry hall complete with armoire and minibar. The circular room, was very interesting with its brick side tables, headboards, foot boards and vanity. African print bedding graced the berth but no artwork adorned the elliptical walls. Instead, the curtains were drawn, exposing a wall of windows looking out onto the crater and the rain-forests at the rim. Indeed, who needs artwork when you can admire this!
Difficult as it was to tear myself away, we set out to enjoy the beautiful sunset from the luxurious westward facing lounge and pool area before heading to the dramatic dining room with its soaring ceilings.
The service, once again, was incredible and the food a remarkable exhibition of the chef’s amazing talent.
On our second evening, we enjoyed an interesting talk given by a local ranger of the history and diversity of the crater, complete with an interesting slideshow. Our absolute favorite thing about the lodge, however, was the hot water bottles that were placed in our beds each night to help combat the chill! We didn’t have the mosquito netting here at the crater as the temperatures were too chilly, but the hot water bottles were a nice touch!
We loved leaving our windows open to the chilled mountain air, even though we were subject to the sounds of Africa. In fact, being able to hear the outside environment, led to some amazing sightings.
On our first evening, in the waning light, we noticed Cape Buffalo foraging in the brush. A little later, a mountain reedbuck was grazing near our windows. So enthralled by this close-up encounter, I could have passed on dinner and watched this active display. No wonder there was no television and wifi available in our rooms! Also, in the middle of our first night, we were awakened by grunting and discovered zebras scratching their hind quarters on the lodge. The following evening, we were roused by the sound of a heavy movement through the brush. Two large elephant were walking near the top of the rim. It is a wonder that we actually got any sleep!
The encounters weren’t restricted to our rooms, however. One evening, one of the members of our group took us outside to see a large owl resting on the rear patio. Monkeys continued to wander the premises and many guests had to hang on to their belongings to keep the sneaky primates from helping themselves. The most exhilarating (and alarming) encounter, however, was when we were exiting the rear of the lodge and headed back to our rooms. A guard greeted us and informed us that he would be escorting us. The flashing of light and excited voices near the pool caught our attention. A Cape Buffalo was standing near the pool, mere yards from our location!
Though we had visited and departed the crater a few hours before, we hadn’t really left it behind.
Definitely one of the most interesting places we have ever stayed!
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Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge
Passing the luxurious (and wildly expensive) Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, we knew we were almost there. Only six lodges sit on the crater rim, offering a bed capacity of only 560 along with sixteen campsites. Realizing how very few people are allowed here every night, it dawned on us what a privilege the journey was that we were about to undertake.
As our 4×4 climbed the steep road, we breathed a sigh of relief when we finally pulled into a parking area on the side of the road. This was it…our first view of Ngorongoro Crater!
Driving along the countless trails that span the crater floor, a female lion was spotted alongside the road. A few 4x4s stopped to admire her reserved beauty as she lounged in the heat of the new day. Soon, tiring of her grassy spot, she stood and ambled over to the road, making her way between two of the safari vehicles. Laziness prevailed and she quickly decided that the middle of the road was much better than her previous spot. Too bad for those trying to make their way!
Enjoying our breakfast, we marveled at our surroundings, basking in its endless beauty. I couldn’t stop watching the clouds rolling over the top of the crater, the succession of zebras that continued to make their way over the hill behind us and to the rear of the lake and the hippos that continued to laze in the murky waters. Honestly, I don’t know if I have ever been in a more beautiful place!
Our morning meal completed, we reluctantly moved on, migrating with the other vehicles along the dusty crater roads. Flightless male ostriches flaunted their pink necks and plumage and my favorite feathered creature in the crater, the Secretary Bird, made itself known throughout our journey.
As usual, our safari vehicle was the last to leave the area, but as we pulled away from the rest stop, my husband noticed movement in another cluster of trees. An enormous elephant moved out from the brush, exposing the largest set of tusks that we had ever seen. Estimated by our guide to be about sixty years old, he stayed near the tree line. As another vehicle pulled up to speak to our driver, we watched the old guy move away from the trees and slowly amble toward us. His gait was slow and tired but we soon noticed him picking up speed, realizing he was heading right for us! And…Fahad was not paying attention! “Fahad! Fahad!” We weren’t sure what was going to happen and we all ducked into the vehicle just as the senior mammoth reached us and bumped the back of our 4×4! As quickly as he came, he ambled away…”his fifth leg” swinging and obviously please with himself. Pulses beating rapidly, we drove away and allowed him to enjoy the rest of his day while we explored the Lerai Forest, home to the tall, slim yellow barked acacia trees.
While we waited for the others in our party to arrive, we mingled with the women as they decorated us with their beautiful, beaded collars. They sang songs and smiled at us while the men, practiced their dance moves. Soon, the others safari vehicles pulled under the acacia tree and our friends joined us for the show.
While the women provided the music, one of the men used the Greater Kudu, or horn and the other men formed lines, moving together and chanting rhythmically, “Oooooh-yah” with a growl and staccato cough. They thrust and withdrew their bodies, some jumping.
Eventually, we were gathered around two of the male villagers who proceeded to demonstrate how the Maasai make fire. With a bit of a breeze, conditions weren’t right and they were unsuccessful after two lengthy attempts. Clapping for their efforts, we then moved on to other parts of their village.
The schoolhouse was nearby and as we glanced into the small hut, the young children sang a song for us, recited their ABC’s and we inspected their lessons written on their chalkboard. Handing over the small gifts we had brought (pens, pencils and paper) to the schoolmaster, we were thanked profusely by everyone.
Exiting the huts, we saw many women and children who had not performed during our arrival, peeking out curiously at us. Shyly, they remained in the doorways of their huts where they could dart back in if a camera was raised.
Though we were not present for the great migration when the landscape may be dotted black from the large numbers of wildebeest, the views of the Serengeti from the top were awe inspiring! After the climb to the top, on the moderate trail, we were able to gaze out over the short, grassy plains while standing under the acacia trees which cover the summit. Since we had not booked the balloon safari, it was great to see from a different perspective what we had seen from the ground during the past few days.
The two square mile area is home to giraffes, elephants, antelope, lion, cheetah, vervet monkeys, wildebeest and zebras. There were also many small Agama lizards along the trail and a it is a great place for bird watching with many colorful starling and maribou storks soaring overhead.
For those wanting to stay in the area, there are a few lodges and camps; Sametu Camp for only 14 guests with a front row to superb, up-front, big cat viewing and roaring, nighttime bonfires. Serengeti Serena Lodge’s thatched, rondavel huts and manicured grounds. Four Seasons Lodge’s oasis of luxury with its infinity swimming hole overlooking a frequented watering hole and Private Mobile Camps with wildlife a few feet from its spacious tents.
Turning left onto one of the many roads that criss-crossed the park, we bumped along, spotting other vehicles in the distance. As we slowed, we noticed movement near a patch of acacia trees…a herd of elephants! Slowly they ambled along, two youngsters with four older females. We watched them slowly until continuing further down the road. Here, we encountered another herd, and this one came extremely close to Mathilda!
Soon, we were boarding one of Shine Aviation’s Cessnas and rocketing down the runway. Arusha’s dense landscape spread out before us giving way to mountains and gorges. Although we were told that on some days, Kilimanjaro is visible, unfortunately, we did not have the pleasure. We settled in for the hour flight and before long, the landscape became more barren. I was mesmerized by the Maasai villages that were discernible here and there along our flight path.
As we descended, small animals dotted the landscape and the landing field appeared before us. Lower and lower, our aircraft dropped until we were bumping along the Seronera airstrip. Finally, I had made it.
One of the largest art galleries on the continent and a modern, architectural marvel, the gallery has many levels that will amaze you with it’s beautiful pieces available to both ponder and help you part with your shillings. Masks, furniture, artwork and artifacts from all parts of Africa decorate each level and are guaranteed to amaze! Be sure to give yourself ample time to explore it in its entirety.
